chapter 6
THREADING
What will I know after reading this chapter?
This chapter covers how to provide threading treatments. It describes
the competencies required to enable you to:
● consult with the client
● plan the treatment
● prepare clients for threading treatments
● treat the client using threading techniques.
INTRODUCTION
KEY TERMS
Threading has been around for centuries and has been a common technique
Threading: Hair removal for temporary hair removal in Asia and the Far East, although it is now also
method using strands of gaining popularity in the West. It is typically used on facial areas – the upper
thread lip, chin and eyebrows – rather than on larger areas such as the legs.
Folliculitis: A bacterial Threading can be carried out in a salon as a professional treatment but it can
infection in the hair follicle also be used by the client herself, on herself, at home. It is a useful technique
that give clean lines and good shape to the eyebrows and also removes hair
from the upper lip and other facial areas.
The difference between threading and waxing or sugaring is that the hair is
removed without any product coming into contact with the skin. Therefore
there is no trauma. However gentle a wax or sugar paste formulation is,
however good the quality of the ingredients, however well applied and
removed, there is no getting away from the fact that threading does not
interfere with the surrounding skin in any way. Clients with sensitive skin
may therefore prefer to go to an HRP who offers this technique.
What is threading?
The thread used can be cotton or nylon or a combination of the two. The
most commonly used is 100 per cent cotton thread which is twisted and
rolled along the surface of the skin, entwining the hair which is then lifted
out from the follicle.
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As this is primarily a home hair removal technique, there are a variety of
applications and techniques which have been passed down through families
for generations and, therefore, there is no standardised method. However,
the methods discussed here represent the most popular techniques.
Advantages Disadvantages
✓ Inexpensive compared to other plucking ✘ Threading is a very skilled process for
methods. Other than the thread, the which, at present, there is no formal
only costs are before- and aftercare training available. The skill is something
products. which is passed down from generation
to generation and learned from an early
✓ Quick procedure, since many hairs are age predominantly within the Asian
removed by a single pass of the thread.
community.
✓ Very well tolerated by sensitive and ✘ Hair removal is not selective and
reactive skins; irritation and skin rashes
therefore there is often stimulation to
are rare because no potentially irritating
vellus growth.
substances are used. The outer layer of
dead skin is not stripped off in the ✘ Inexperienced practitioners can easily
treatment process. snap of the hairs at the surface of the
skin giving poor treatment results and
✓ As the treatment is so rapid, it’s increasing the potential for hairs to
considered less painful than tweezing.
become ingrown.
✓ Good results are achieved for eyebrows ✘ The mass plucking of hairs can cause
and facial hair as the thread quickly
irritation and itching.
catches all the hairs leaving a particularly
smooth and neat result.
✓ Results can last up to two to four
weeks.
✓ Threading can be carried out more
frequently than other methods because
the hair can be grasped by the thread
when it is very short.
CONSULTATION
As with all hair removal treatments, when providing threading treatments
you must follow the general consultation advice and processes discussed in
Chapter Two. There are also a number of additional consultation processes
specific to threading which must be followed and they are discussed here.
The client’s record card plays a key role in threading consultations and you
must ensure each stage is completed and entered onto the card. Permanent
information is recorded on the front while all current and changeable
information (such as treatment progress) should be recorded on the rear of
the record card on an on-going basis.
Test patch
It is not always necessary to carry out patch testing prior to a threading
treatment as there are very few products used. It is, however, advisable to
test the before- and aftercare products you will be using if your client has
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Threading Record Card
JAYGEE’S
Family name: Date of birth:
First name: Address:
Home tel: Doctor’s name:
Mobile: Address:
E-mail: Tel:
Have you had previous hair removal treatment?: Yes អ No អ
If yes, how many treatments did you have? ______________________ Over what period? ______________________
Any skin reactions? ______________________________________________
When was your last treatment? ___________________________________
On what area do you require treatment? ____________________________
អ Eyebrows
អ Face
អ Other
What other temporary measures have you used? ____________________ Over what period of time?___________
How often? _____________ Have you/Do you use a hair growth inhibitor?: _____________
Present condition of skin in area to be treated, to include blemishes etc: _________________________________
Related medical information: (conditions which restrict or contra-indicate treatment):
Are you taking medication: Yes អ No អ If Yes, please specify __________________________
Patch test carried out Date: _________________ Result: ____________________________
I declare that I have answered all the above questions truthfully
Client signature………………………………… Date……………………………….
known sensitivities (things she/he is sensitive to) and reactions or has never
had a previous salon treatment.
All products that will be used during the treatment, – skin sanitiser and
soothing aftercare products – should be applied to an area of approximately
2cm2, as a control area, and the after effects noted for a minimum of 24
hours. Should no adverse reaction be seen, a full treatment can take place.
Contra-indications
The contra-indications to threading are identical to those for waxing and
sugaring. Because threading does not use any product, it may be considered
a more suitable treatment for clients with reactive skin.
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However, the mass plucking effect from threading can cause the following
adverse reactions:
● folliculitis, a bacterial infection in the hair follicle
● excessive skin reddening or puffiness
● in-growing hairs
● changes in skin pigment due to constant plucking of the hairs and trauma
to the area.
Equipment and materials
As with waxing, you will require the basic equipment of a couch and trolley EQUIPMENT LIST
and these are discussed in more detail in Chapter Four.
couch
You will also require the following items for a threading treatment:
trolley
● skin sanitiser skin sanitiser
● cotton wool/tissues in a container with lid
cotton wool/tissues
● powder
powder
● thread
thread
● eyebrow brush
● sanitised scissors eyebrow brush
● aftercare soothing lotion, oil, gel or cream sanitised scissors
● pedal bin with lid – double lined (i.e. with two bin liners) aftercare soothing lotion
● clean towels pedal bin with lid
● disposable gloves (latex or vinyl). clean towels
It is important to wear disposable gloves (latex or vinyl) when carrying out a disposable gloves
threading treatment, because the removed hairs may have body fluid on
them. During the threading process, the hairs will fly randomly about and
could easily attach themselves to your hands and pose a potential cross
infection and contamination risk.
Preparation of the therapist
As with waxing treatments, the therapist must present a professional, clean
appearance at all times and this is discussed in more detail in Chapter Four.
Treatment preparation
Treatment preparation is an important part of treatment and should be
carried out thoroughly. The following will guide you through a typical
preparation procedure of yourself and the treatment area prior to conducting
a threading treatment:
1 Always confirm the exact area for treatment and discuss carefully with the
client the results they wish to achieve.
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2 If the client has had a previous treatment with you, before preparing the
client and commencing treatment, the client’s record card must be
retrieved from its confidential and secure storage facility and be on hand
in the treatment room.
3 Accompany the client into the treatment room and assist and/or direct the
client with the removal of any necessary garments and, if required, help on
to the couch.
4 Ascertain from the client any changes which may affect the treatment and
its outcomes, using your record card as a point of reference. This should
TECHNICAL TIP include any reactions or feedback from the last treatment, any changes in
medication and health, stress related issues (i.e. work or personal).
When threading the eyebrows, 5 Once you and your client are happy to continue, prepare the client for
they should be prepared by treatment.
brushing with an eyebrow
brush to ensure the hairs are 6 For eyebrow treatment, discuss with and advise the client on the shape
lying flat and prevent the they wish to achieve – for more information on eyebrow shaping see page
inadvertent removal of hairs 138. Once the desired eyebrow shape has been agreed with your client,
which form the brow. Any prepare the area for treatment.
long hairs in the brow should 7 Ask the client to hold their skin taught during the threading, one of the
be cut with scissors to prevent client’s hands should be at the top of the brow and the other over the eye
them being caught in the
and they should then pull gently apart, if the skin is not properly stretched
thread
and taught the thread can cut the skin.
8 Sanitise your hands.
9 Put on single use disposable gloves.
TREATMENT APPLICATION
The general procedure for a threading treatment is as follows.
1 After completing the preparation steps above, apply skin sanitising
product to clean cotton wool and wipe over the area to be treated, in
order to sanitise the area and remove any oils or cosmetic products on the
skin.
2 Blot treatment area dry with clean tissue.
3 Dispose of cotton wool and tissue in pedal bin (double lined).
4 Apply a light dusting of powder to the area; this will help the thread to slip
over the skin.
5 Prepare the thread by looping and twisting into position.
6 Remove the hairs by pulling the loop taught against the direction of
growth so that it grasps a number of hairs and provides a multi-plucking
effect with the tightened loop. The thread can be used in either two hands,
or with one hand and the teeth as described below.
7 Clear the area of hairs in a methodical manner making sure that all hairs
are removed.
8 Clear away any removed hairs which are lying on the client’s skin with a
clean cotton wool pad and dispose of them in a double lined pedal bin.
9 Apply soothing aftercare lotions – oil, gel or cream – to the treated area,
blot off any excess with a tissue and dispose of in a double lined pedal bin.
Assist the client off the couch and advise on home-care.
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ALTERNATIVE THREADING TECHNIQUES
There is no standardised technique for threading and these three techniques
are derived from the main technique outlined above.
Technique A
The HRP holds one end of the thread in between their teeth, the other end is
placed in either their left or right hand, and the centre of the length of thread
is passed through the index and middle fingers of the opposite hand and
twisted to form a loop. The free end of the length of thread is then used to
pull the loop taut to enable the HRP to grasp a number of hairs and provide
a multi-plucking effect with the tightened loop.
Technique B: Teeth threading method
Step One: Preparation of eyebrow area with antiseptic products.
Step Two: Application of powder.
Step Three: Client holds eyebrow area skin taut.
Step Four: Threading applied to the eyebrow area.
Step 1: Preparing the eyebrow area with antiseptic Step 2: Applying powder
products
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Step 3: Client holding eyebrow area skin taut Step 4: Hair is removed
Technique C: Hand only threading method
A piece of thread is tied into a circle and then wrapped around two fingers
on both hands (similar to the ‘cats cradle’ game). The thread is then twisted
in such a way that it can be alternately pulled and twisted in opposite
directions along the skin using the twist to catch and pull out the hairs. This
method is more commonly used when removing your own hair.
Home-care advice
Hand-only method, self-application
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JAYGEE’S
Threading home-care The threading process uses no heat or
Please read these home-care notes products and so there are fewer after-
carefully and follow our recommendations. effects than for many other hair removal
We have taken great care to protect you methods. It is, however, advisable to avoid
from infection and in addition, to our the following for 2–4 hours after
normal salon routine, we have applied a treatment:
soothing antiseptic lotion after your ● perfumed body lotion or creams
treatment. It is important for you to take
● following facial treatment, avoid any
extra care of the treated area, especially
application of make-up
within the first 2–4 hours. When a large
● sunbathing and sunbed treatments
number of hairs have been removed, the
area could be prone to infection if not ● very hot baths
cared for properly. ● following body area treatment, avoid
friction from tight clothing
● following underarm treatment, avoid
PLEASE NOTE: If you experience persistent redness deodorants and anti-perspirants.
or discomfort, contact your hair removal
practitioner. We recommend that you use a soothing
antiseptic lotion daily for 3–4 days after
treatment, which should be purchased
from your hair removal practitioner.
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PRACTITIONER PROFILE
Name: Neenu Batra
Occupation: Beauty therapist
Region: Middlesex
Neenu Batra is an ITEC qualified beauty therapist who also holds professional qualifica-
tions in facial electricals and who specialises in model and bridal make-up. She is
originally from India where she learnt the art of threading at a young age. This art was
passed on to her by her mother.
Neenu’s salon is in Wembley, Middlesex, where she runs a hairdressing and beauty
salon business with over 3,000 square feet of space. To Neenu the advantage of
having both a hair and beauty salon is that clients who come for either service often
ask for the other one and also ask for threading to be carried out as an additional
treatment.
Neenu always had a passion for making people look and feel beautiful and thus, after
having her second child, decided to embark on professional courses with the aim of
eventually setting up her own business. In 2001, she established her business which is
now enjoying a favourable reputation in the area.
Threading can be performed on any age group – from young teenagers who are
conscious of early facial hair to the elderly who want to stay looking hair-free and
young. The attraction of this treatment is that there are no side effects. Neenu finds
her clientele is 70 per cent from an Asian background and 30 per cent from other
ethnic groups.
Neenu has discovered that introducing threading to non-Asian clientele is fascinating
for most of them, who find it a new and refreshing experience. When a client sees the
results after threading, they are truly exhilarated and can’t wait to tell their friends. She
has started to cater for the gay community and also many overseas visitors who go
back to their home countries with their minds buzzing. Some clients from Paris and
Rome have indicated that this phenomenon will take off in their countries.
As well as performing threading Neenu’s salon offers other hair removal treatments,
ranging from electrolysis using the Apilus computerised epilator to waxing. There are
occasions after waxing when some resistant hair has to be removed by threading.
Threading charges range from £5 for a basic eyebrow shaping (both brows) to £30 for
a full face threading. The salon at present conducts about 100 threading treatments a
week on average, although this figure is rising due to interest from non-Asian clients.
Neenu is now considering offering threading courses in her salon to groups of five
people over two days. Neenu’s ambition is to create a threading phenomenon
throughout the world by opening academies in beauty colleges and then moving this
to the commercial world in the form of ‘threading bars’ which could open in high
street shopping centres.
‘Threading is a quick, economical and profitable procedure with no equipment or
product costs and the results are very pleasing.’
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Assessment of knowledge and understanding
You have now learnt how to conduct threading treatments. To test your
level of knowledge and understanding, answer the following short
questions:
1 What are the benefits of threading over sugaring and waxing?
2 Why is it important to make note of any skin blemishes on the
client’s record card?
3 What are the two methods of threading?
4 Compare and contrast the three methods of mass plucking.
5 Why is it important to wear disposable gloves when carrying out a
threading treatment on a client?
6 List two disadvantages of threading.
7 Why is it important to brush and cut some hairs prior to threading
the eyebrows?
8 What areas are most suitable for hair removal by threading?
9 What types of thread should be used for hair removal?
10 List two things which should be avoided by a client following a
threading treatment.
Activity
Conduct the following activity to practise your knowledge of threading
treatments:
1 In a group, try and make a threading loop and then see if your
fingers can create the movement necessary to cause a tweezing
action.
Follow up knowledge
To build on the knowledge of threading gained in this chapter,
complete the following task to extend your hair removal skills and
understanding:
1 Visit the following websites on threading as well as finding your own,
to gain further insight into this ancient art of hair removal www.
lucidbeauty.com/threading, www.threadingstudio.com
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Advanced knowledge reference section
Alternative hair removal products
It is important that, as an HRP, you are aware of all the products which
come on to the market. Always keep an open mind and study new
products and methods carefully before making a judgement from an
educated view point. Try to avoid the ‘It will never work’ attitude and
bear in mind that, as Darwin said, ‘It is not the strongest who survive
but the most adaptable’.
Hair growth inhibitors
There are a number of these products on the market. They come in
many forms – gels, creams and ampoules, etc. – and are usually
recommended for use after waxing or other forms of hair removal. The
theory behind them is that their active constituent, which is normally an
enzyme, enters the follicle once the hair has been removed; the enzyme
then retards or restricts new hair growth. Currently the only product of
this type which has substantiated its claims is Vaniqa.
Vaniqa
Vaniqa eflornithine 13.9 per cent cream is a prescription cream applied
to the skin for the reduction of unwanted facial hair. It is currently only
available on prescription.
The cream is not a depilatory, but promising results show that it
appears to retard hair growth in some women. Clients need to continue
using their usual hair removal method in conjunction with Vaniqa. It
will usually take two months of treatment before a result is evident.
Vaniqa does not work for everyone.
Vaniqa slows down the rate of hair growth and is effective in up to 70
per cent of cases.¹ It is a topical cream, which is non-hormonal. The
active ingredient in Vaniqa is eflornithine hydrochloride, which inhibits
an enzyme that affects hair growth, called ornithine decarboxylase
(ODC). Clinical data indicates that taking an oral version of the drug can
affect hair growth.
¹Schrode, K. et al. ‘Randomised, double-blind, vehicle-controlled safety
and efficacy evaluation of eflornithine 15 per cent cream in the
treatment of women with excessive facial hair.’ Presented at 58th Annual
Meeting of the Academy of Dermatology 200, 10–15 March. San
Francisco, USA, Abstract 291.
X
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Transdermal electrolysis and electric tweezers (non-invasive
electrolysis)
In both these methods it is claimed that electricity and in some cases
soundwaves are conducted by the hair into the hair follicle to damage
the follicle and cause permanent hair removal.
Transdermal methods are often promoted as non-invasive electrolysis.
The methods use either a cotton bud or sometimes a conductive plate
over a conductive gel on the skin. A current is passed through the plate
or cotton bud which the manufacturers claim is attracted to the hair
shaft via the gel and conducted by the hair shaft to the follicle where it
damages the hair follicle. The tweezer method utilises tweezers that are
connected to an electrical current, either high frequency or direct
current. The hair is then held with the tweezers above the skin’s surface
and the current passed for several seconds. The manufacturers claim
that the electricity travels down the hair and permanently damages the
hair follicle.
These methods were heavily promoted during the 1980s. Some
practitioners believed that the methods actually worked and unwittingly
took money from clients for ineffective treatments.
The fact is that hair is a very poor conductor of electricity. Skin and the
conductive gel are good conductors. Because electricity always follows
the path of least resistance, any current passed on to the skin and gel
will travel across that gel and skin – it will not pass down the hair. Even
if we could use enough current in this way for some of it to pass down
the hair shaft, the damage to the surface of the skin would be
significant. The same is true of the tweezer method – because the hair is
such a poor conductor, it is highly unlikely to pass sufficient current to
have any effect on the hair follicle.
None of the claims for permanent hair removal have been substantiated
or have any published clinical proof of their claims and none of the
methods have FDA (Federal Drug Administration of USA) approval.
