VERA

outfit pattern

Pattern design by Paola Dansi

@lapiccolapeoperosa
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Thank you very much for purchasing my pattern.

Please contact me if any step gives you troubles.

HOW TO CONTACT ME

https://www.instagram.com/lapiccolapeoperosa/
https://www.facebook.com/lapiccolapeoperosa/
lapiccolapeoperosa@gmail.com

I will be happy to help you.

COPYRIGHT

This pattern is for personal use only. All rights reserved. Sharing information from this
pattern is prohibited.

Please DO NOT sell, redistribute or edit this pattern in any way. DO NOT use my pictures
for advertising. DO NOT repost my pictures without my permission.

If you publish photos of your finished dolls, please credit me, EVERY TIME! This is very
important for my job.

Below your post on Instagram, FB, Etsy, Raverly or any other social page, please add:

 pattern design by @lapiccolapeoperosa

 use the hashtag #lapaodolls

I will be very happy to see your creations.

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MATERIALS

 2.0 mm, 2.5 mm and 3.0 mm crochet hooks

 2 orange buttons (5 mm size) for the T-shirt
 2 white buttons (10 mm size) for the overalls
 tapestry needle
 stitch markers
 scissor
 plastic sheet (for example from cheese spreadable box or similar)
 cotton yarn: I used Drops Safran 100% cotton by Garnstudio (Yarn group: A/5 ply/sport)
o hat: orange (28)
o overall: medium grey (7)
o T-shirt and finishes: white (17)
o boots: light brown (22)
o sole of the boots: off-white (18)

ABBREVIATIONS (US crochet standard abbreviations)

MR magic ring
ch chain
st stitch
slst slip stitch
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
inc sc increase
dec sc invisible decrease
YO yarn over hook
YU yarn under hook
(…) repeat the instructions reported in round brackets for the times indicated.
[…] make the stitches indicated in square brackets into the same stich.
BLO back loop only
FLO front loop only
FO fasten off (cut the yarn and pull out the tail through the stitch).

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How to crochet in row

At the beginning of each row * make one raising chain. This chain replaces the first
sc of the row. Then crochet the second sc in the second stitch from hook and proceed
with all sc indicated in the pattern*. At the end of the row turn your work, and repeat
* *. To make a decrease at the beginning of the row, do not make the raising chain
and start to crochet in the second stitch from hook. The last sc of each row has to be
done in the raising chain of the previous row, unless this should be a decrease.

How to make an invisible needle join

Thread the tail through a tapestry needle and insert

the needle under both loops of the first stitch of the
round (1). Pull yarn through gently. Then, insert your
needle below the front loop of the last stitch of the
round (2). Pull the yarn through gently and weave the
end at the back as usual.

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BOOTS
Work with 2.0 crochet hook

Sole (make 2)
Work in continuous rounds around the starting chain stitches with “off-white” color
yarn

1) Start making 8 chains and from second ch from hook work as follow: 1 inc, 5 sc,
[5 sc] in the last ch, 6 sc on the other side of the starting chains (18)
2) 2 inc, 6 sc, 3 inc, 7 sc (23)
3) 3 inc, 7 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc, 1 slst, FO, invisible needle join (30)

Repeat the same steps to make another identical sole

Put one sole on top of the other with a plastic piece

inside (you can use a piece of spreadable cheese
box or similar plastic material).
The plastic sheet inside makes the sole more rigid.

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Sew the soles with a round

of slsts, end this round
with an invisible needle
join in the first slst. This
invisible needle join will be
the 30th slst (30). It’s very
important for you to obtain
30 st around the sole!

Upper (part 1)

Work in joined rounds with brown yarn

Insert the hook in the BLO of the slst in the centre-

left of the heel and join the brown yarn making:

1) 1 ch and 1 BLO sc in the same st, 28 BLO sc, 1

slst in the first sc of the round (30)

Note that the final slst of each round count as a st

in the final count. The start ch does not!

2) 1 ch and 1 sc in the same st, 28 sc, 1 slst in the

firs sc of the round (30)
3) 1 ch and 1 sc in the same st, 8 sc, 6 dec, 8 sc, 1 slst in the first sc of the round
(24)

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4) 1 ch and 1 sc in the same st, 8 sc, 3 dec, 8 sc, 1

slst in the first sc of the round, FO, invisible
needle join in the first sc of the round (the
invisible needle join count as a st too) (21)

Embroider a row of back stitches on the sole with

brown yarn.

Tongue
Skip the first 9 sts and join the brown color yarn
Work in row
1) 1 standing sc, 3 sc, turn (4)
2) 1 raising ch and 1 sc in the same st (= 1 inc), 2
sc, 1 inc, turn (6)
3) 1 raising ch and 1 sc in the same st (= 1 inc), 4
sc, 1 inc, turn (8)

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4) 1 raising ch and 1 sc in the same st (= 1 inc), 6

sc, 1 inc, turn (10)
5) 1 raising ch, 9 sc, turn (10)
6) no raising ch and 1 sc in the second st from hook
(=1 dec), 6 sc, 1 dec, turn (8)
7) 1 raising ch, 7 sc, turn (8)
8) no raising ch and 1 sc in the second st from hook
(=1 dec), 4 sc, 1 dec, FO (6)

Upper (part 2)
Work in row
Skip a st from the tongue and join the yarn
5) 1 standing sc, 14 sc, turn (15)
6) 1 raising ch, 14 sc, turn (15)
7) no raising ch and 1 sc in the second st from hook
(= 1 dec), 11 sc, 1 dec, turn (13)
8) 1 raising ch, 12 sc, FO (13)

Finishes: work a row of sc around the upper. Join the

yarn in the same st where you worked the standing
sc and work:

1 ch, 3 sc, [3 sc in the corner], 11 sc, [3 sc in the

other corner], 3 sc, FO.

Note that the photo shows only a lateral view of the

boot just to help you understand where to join the
yarn to start off the finishes.

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Laces
Make 70 chs with “off-white” color yarn.
Insert them as in the photos below, using a hook.

T-SHIRT
Work in row with white yarn color and 2.0 mm crochet hook

1) Start making 35 chs and 34 sc (the first one in the second ch from hook), turn
(34)
2) 1 raising ch, 3 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x 5, 4 sc, turn (40)
3) 1 raising ch, 3 sc, 5 chs, skip 10 sts, 12 sc, 5 chs, skip 10 sts, 4 sc, turn (30)
4) 1 raising ch, 3 sc, 5 sc in the 5 chs, 12 sc, 5 sc in 5 chs, 4 sc (30)
5-8) 1 raising ch, 29 sc, turn (30)
9) 1 raising ch, 29 sc, FO (30)

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Sleeves
Keeping the starting tail on the right side of your
job, insert the hook in one of the 5 chs that you
added in the row 3 and work the sleeve in
continuous rounds as follow:
1) 1 standing sc, 14 sc (15)
2-3) 15 sc (15)
1 sl st, FO, invisible needle join
Repeat the same steps for the other sleeve.

Collar, buttonholes and around finishes

Join the yarn in correspondence of the starting tail,

and work around the four sides of the T-shirt as
follow:

1 top side:1 raising ch, 3 sc, 1 dec, (4 sc, dec) x 4,

4 sc (29)
2 left side (buttonholes side): 3 chs, skip 1 st, 2 sc,
3 chs, skip a st, 4 sc, [2 sc] in the corner st
3 below side: slsts until the other corner, [1slst,
1sc] in the corner st
4 right side: 9 sc,
5 top side (second time): slsts until the left corner,
FO

Sew 2 little button (size 5 mm) corresponding to the

buttonholes.

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OVERALLS
Work in continuous rounds with 3.0 mm crochet hook
and grey color yarn
1) start making 40 chs and close them to form a ring
with 1 slst into the first ch, 39 sc (40)
2-10) 40 sc (40)
1 slst, 6 chs, skip 20 sts, 1 slst, FO and hide the tail.

Pay attention to the size of the overalls. The proportions between Vera’s
body and the overalls should be as in the figure below.

The measures of my overalls are intended only to be indicative for a doll 22-
23 cm tall.

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Trouser legs

With 2.5 mm crochet hook join the yarn in the 4th loop of the chain you’ve just
prepared, worked just before, and crochet each trouser leg in joined rounds.

Pay attention: the trouser legs are worked counterclockwise pushing the
crochet hook from the inside to the outside of the work while keeping the
work between you and the hook. Basically, you should crochet inside out.
In this way the hdc stitches will create a stripe motif.

The starting ch and the ending slst of each round as

well as the final invisible needle join, do not count as
sts.

11) make 1 ch and 1 hdc in the same ch loop, 2 hdc

in the chs, 20 hdc, 3 hdc in the chs, 1slst in the first
hdc of the round (26)
12) 1 ch and 1 hdc in the same st, 25 hdc, 1 slst in
the first hdc (26)
13) 1 ch and 1 hdc in the same st, 25 hdc, 1 slst in
BLO in the first hdc (26)
14) work this round all in back loop, 1 ch and 1 hdc in
the same st, 25 hdc, FO, invisible needle join in the 1st
hdc of the round (26)

Repeat step 11-14 to make the other leg trouser.

NB: the steps won’t be identical, of course!

Flip the last row following the FLO stitches to create

the cuff and work 1 round of slsts around each trouser leg ending with an invisible
needle join in the first slst (26)

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Upper part

With 3.0 mm crochet hook, join the yarn in the front

center of the waist and crochet in continuous rounds
as in the followings:

1) 1 standing sc, 39 sc (40)

2) 40 sc (40)
3) 10 sc, 1 dec, 18 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc (38)

Now continue to crochet in row to make the front upper part of the overall

4) 7 sc, turn
5) 1 raising ch, 12 sc, turn (13)
6) no raising ch and 1 sc in the second st from hook
(=1 dec), 9 sc, 1 dec, turn (11)
7) no raising ch and 1 sc in the second st from hook
(=1 dec), 7 sc, 1 dec, turn (9)
8) 3 chs, skip 1 st, 6 sc, 3 chs, 1 sc, FO

Skip 6 st and join the yarn to make the back upper part of the overall

4) standing sc, 12 sc, turn

(13)
5) no raising ch and 1 sc in
the second st from hook (=1
dec), 9 sc, 1 dec, turn (11)
6) no raising ch and 1 sc in
the second st from hook (=1
dec), 7 sc, 1 dec, turn (9)

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7) no raising ch and 1 sc in the second st from the hook (=1 dec), 5 sc, 1 dec, turn
(7)
8) no raising ch and 1 sc in the second st from the hook (=1 dec), 3 sc, 1 dec, turn
(5)
9) no raising ch and 1 sc in the second st from the hook (=1 dec), 1 sc, 1 dec, turn
(3)
10) no raising ch and work together the 2nd and 3rd sts from hook (=2 dec), FO (1)

Crochet with 2.5 mm

hook all around the
upper part of the overalls
a row of slsts and 3 sc
around the 3 chs of each
buttonhole on the front
upper part.

Suspenders

Work in row with 2.5 mm crochet hook

1) leave a long starting yarn tail (~1.5 m), start

making 4 ch, 3 sc (the first one in the second ch from
hook), turn (3)
2-20) 1 raising ch, 2 sc (3)
FO, leaving a tail to sew the button.

With the long tail left at the beginning, work the

second suspender from the side of the first one,
making a V shape. Work 18 row and FO leaving a tail
to sew the button.

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Sew the suspender to the overalls making back

stitches with white yarn all around the upper part
following the row of slst. You can also use a thinner
white yarn for the finishes, the choice depends on
one’s personal taste. It could be helpful to draw the
center back line with a dressmaker's chalk before
embroidering with back stitches.
For a better result of your finishes keep an eye on the
wrong side of your job as well.

Sew 2 white buttons

(size 10 mm) on the
suspenders.

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Pockets
Work in row with 2.5 mm crochet hook.

Back pocket

1) Start making 7 ch, 6 sc (the first one in the second ch from hook), turn (6)
2) 1 raising ch and 1 sc in the same st (= 1 inc), 4 sc, 1 inc, turn (8)
3-6) 1 raising ch, 7 sc, turn (8)
FO

Lateral pockets (make 2)

1) Start making 10 ch, 9 sc (the first one in the second ch from hook), turn (9)
2-3) 1 raising ch, 8 sc, turn (9)
4) 1 raising ch, 5 sc, 1 dec, turn (7)
5) no raising ch and 1 sc in second st from hook
(= 1 dec), 5 sc, turn (6)
6) 1 raising ch, 5 sc, turn (6)
7) no raising ch and 1 sc in second st from hook
(= 1 dec), 4 sc, turn (5)
8) 1 raising ch, 2 sc, 1 dec, turn (4)
9-10) 1 raising ch, 3 sc (4)

Continue to work a row of slsts along the pocket opening, FO

Repeat 1-10 passages to make one other identical pocket but finally turn the work
and crochet the row of slsts on the other side of the pocket opening.

Front pocket
1) Start making 5 ch, 4 sc (the first one in the second ch from hook), turn (4)
2) 1 raising ch and 1 sc in the same st (= 1 inc), 2 sc, 1 inc (6)
3-5) 1 raising ch, 5 sc (6)
FO

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Where to sew the pockets? Follow the photos below.

The lateral pockets should be bent a bit before sewn, so Vera’s hands will fit inside.

HAT
Work in continuous rounds with 2.5 mm crochet hook and orange yarn

1) 8 sc in a MR (8)
2) 8 inc (16)
3) 16 inc (32)
4) (3 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (40)
5) (4 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (48)
6) 48 sc (48)
7) (5 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (56)
8) (6 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (64)
9) (7 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (72)
10) 72 sc (72)
11) (8 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (80)
12) 80 sc (80)
13) (9 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (88)
14-17) 88 sc (88)

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18) (9 sc, 1 dec) x8 (80)

19) 80 sc (80)
20) (8 sc, 1 dec) x8 (72)
21) 72 sc (72)
22) (7 sc, 1 dec) x8 (64)
23) 64 sc (64)
24) (6 sc, 1 dec) x8 (56)
25) 56 sc, 1 slst, TURN

continue working in rows to make the brim

Brim

1) 1 ch, 1 inc, 14 sc, 1 inc, 1slst, turn

2) skip the slst, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 1 slst, turn
3) skip the slst, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 slst, turn
4) skip the slst, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 slst, turn
5) skip the slst, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 16 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 slst, turn
6) skip the slst, 1 inc, 32 sc, 1 inc, 1 sl st

Do not turn and continue working a row of slsts all

around the hat and brim, ending with FO and

invisible needle join.

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Good job
Vera’s outfit is done!

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