DA100 Manual
DA100 Manual
DA100 Manual
DA100
• Do not operate the motor if you do not want to be completely responsible for any damage or injury
incurred or caused during its operation.
• Read all instructions before operating your motor.
• If you have any questions about any aspect of operating this motor, do not attempt to start or
operate it.
• Never operate the motor, or fly, alone.
• When operating the motor, never stand, or allow anyone else to stand, in front of, or to the side of
the propeller. Always stand behind the propeller.
• Keep away from the prop while operating the motor. Do not wear loose clothing near the motor or
prop. Do not run the motor near loose material such as dirt, gravel, power cords, ropes, sand, etc.
Loose material can be drawn into the turning prop causing injury or damage.
• Always operate the motor in an open area. Do not operate indoors.
• This motor can develop tremendous thrust. Make sure the aircraft is properly secured when starting
or operating the motor.
• Inspect motor mount bolts and firewall integrity before operating the motor.
• Anyone in the immediate area of the motor should use eye protection during operation of the motor.
• Keep spectators at least 30 feet away when operating the motor.
• Turn off the motor before making any adjustments.
• Always use the proper size propeller. Never use a damaged, modified, or repaired propeller.
• Always use the correct length propeller bolts. Do not use spacers behind the propeller.
• Spinner cones must not touch the propeller.
• Thinner props may require using shorter prop bolts, especially if not using a spinner back plate.
Make sure your prop bolts do not bottom out in the propeller hub.
• Check that the propeller bolts are tight before every flight.
• Always install an ignition kill switch to stop the motor.
• Adjust the carburetor linkage so that the motor will stop when the carburetor is completely closed.
• Gasoline is extremely flammable. Be careful of any sparks from electrical contacts such as fuel
pumps, battery chargers, etc. Do not allow smoking in the area of your fuel supply or motor. Store
fuel in approved containers and in well ventilated areas.
• Allow the motor to cool before touching or fueling.
• Always turn the prop a few revolutions after running the motor to discharge the ignition system.
• The ignition system develops extremely high voltage. Do not touch it during operation.
• Never use a damaged or repaired prop, or a prop that has struck the ground or any other object.
Damage that can be hard to see, could turn into disaster when the prop is turning at thousands of
RPM.
1
Motor Installation
• Mount the motor using high grade 1/4" or 6mm dia. bolts with washers and locking nuts on the rear
of the firewall. Make sure your firewall is structurally sound. The crankshaft centerline is in the exact
center of the rear mounting plate bolt pattern.
• The throttle arm is pre-tapped for a 2-56 ball link. Make sure the carburetor's idle set screw is
removed or set so that the carb can be fully closed by the servo at low trim. Use a high quality servo
for the throttle. A poor quality servo or linkage will not provide accurate and repeatable throttle
settings. Don't use metal to metal linkages.
• You can un-hook, but don't remove, the throttle return spring if the motor is not going to be bench
run. The spring helps to limit shaft wear due to vibration.
• Do not try to rotate the carburetor 180 deg. on the mounting block or remove the butterfly shaft
assembly.
• The carburetor should have at least 1 1/2" (38mm) of clearance between the intake and the bottom
of the cowl. If there is less than 1 1/2", make an opening in the cowl below the carb at least as large
as the carb intake diameter.
• Since the carburetor must often be adjusted differently with the cowl on as compared to off, we
recommend small access holes be made in the cowl for adjusting the needle valves with a long,
narrow, screw driver. Sometimes the needles can be reached through the cowl's openings for the
exhaust system.
• A 32 oz. (or larger) fuel tank is recommended. The tank must be vented. The carb has a strong
pump, so the tank can be mounted almost anywhere. The fuel line and tank stopper must be gas
compatible. Do not use any silicone sealers on the fuel system. Gas can break it down and carry it
into the carb.
• The inner diameter of the fuel tubing should be the same or larger than the carburetor's fuel inlet
fitting's inner diameter. 1/8” I.D. is recommended. Make sure all fuel line connections are secure.
Small nylon zip ties work well to keep the fuel line on the metal fittings. Make sure the fuel line is
secure and not touching the exhaust or cylinder fins. An inline fuel filter can be used. We
recommend filtering the gas entering the fuel tank from your field container.
• Cooling is critical to motor performance and longevity. Allow as much cooling air as possible in
through the front inlets of the cowl. Allow an outlet opening approximately 2 1/2 times larger than
the intake at the bottom rear of the cowl for the hot air to escape. Air must flow through the cylinder
fins, not just inside the cowl, to properly cool the motor. Don't let the air take the easy way out! Make
it go through the fins. Round cowls with large frontal openings need ducting to direct the air through
the cylinder fins.
• Air ducts can be made from thin plywood, balsa, fiberglass, or aluminum sheet to guide and force air
from the front inlets to and through the cylinder fins.
• Depending on the location of the exhaust system, and cowl airflow, the carburetor may need some
air cooling also. A hot carb can be erratic in flight or make the motor hard to restart. Sometimes
placing heat shielding material between the exhaust and carburetor can help.
• Keep components like the ignition system, fuel tank, fuel lines, receivers, etc, shielded from heat
generated by canister and tuned pipe exhaust systems. Hot fuel tanks and fuel lines can cause
frustrating tuning issues, and over heated electronic components can have intermittent problems or
total failures.
2
Ignition System
• When making electrical connections to the ignition system, use the same gauge wire (or larger) as
used on the red and black power leads on the ignition module, all the way to the battery pack. Keep
wire length to a minimum. Heavy-duty plugs, as supplied on the ignition, or as used on electric cars
and planes, are recommended.
• Use a high quality switch such as JR’s heavy-duty switch. Standard size R/C receiver switches are
not recommended.
• Make sure the charge current does not reach the ignition module. In other words don’t “charge” the
ignition module.
• Keep ignition components and wiring separated, as much as possible, from your receiver, receiver
battery, servos, wiring and switches.
• Don’t use metal-to-metal linkages to operate the throttle.
• Always perform a radio range check before flying. Range with one section of the antenna extended
should be at least 80 to 100 Ft. with the plane on the ground and the motor running. If there are
“glitches”, DON’T FLY! Check for holes in the braided shielding, loose connections, etc.
• The ignition can be powered directly by 4 or 5 cell 4.8 or 6 volt NiCd/NiMH batteries, or 6.6 volt
A123/LiFe batteries. If using batteries rated at more than 6.6 volts, a 5.5 or 6 volt regulator must be
used. Higher voltage will damage the ignition system and will void the warranty.
• We recommend an 1800 mAh or larger capacity pack. With this size pack, the ignition should last
longer than your receiver pack will. If meter test shows 5.0 volts or less at the ignition module, don’t
fly, re-charge.
• When connecting the red pick-up sensor to the ignition module, make sure that the polarity of
the wires entering the connectors is correct (Brown to brown, orange to orange)
• Unlike some ignitions, the Desert Aircraft ignition is designed to spark only when the prop is flipped
at a high speed. If the prop is not turned over at "starting" speed, the ignition will not produce a
spark. This helps to prevent the motor from firing accidentally. The ignition coils can store energy for
a short period of time after shut off. A few firm flips of the prop with the ignition off will expend any
energy held in the coils by firing for one revolution.
• When removing the spark plug caps, PULL STRAIGHT out on the caps. Do not pull on the
shielded ignition wires! If caps seem loose and are not making a solid metal to metal contact with
the spark plug base, use a small hose clamp around the base of the cap to keep them firmly
attached to the base of the plug. To prevent radio interference, the spark plug caps must have the
split retainer ring around the base to insure a tight fit. – DON’T FLY WITHOUT THEM!
• Protect the shielded plug wires from rubbing against fiberglass or sharp edges of wood or
metal. Rubber grommets and plastic “spiral wrap” insulation from automotive or electronic supply
stores work well. Holes in the braided shielding can emit R/F noise or loose connections (spark plug
caps, connectors and switches).
• Timing is set at the factory and should not need adjustment. Contact Desert Aircraft if you have any
questions regarding timing.
• Only use NGK CM-6 spark plugs. Other plugs may not fit the plug caps firmly.
• Plug gap is .018” to .020" (.38 to .50 mm)
• Never operate the ignition without a spark plug in the plug caps! This can permanently damage the
ignition coil.
3
Fuel and Oil Mix
• Use standard to mid-grade pump gas for the DA100, such as 91 to 93 octane.
• We recommend purchasing your fuel from “name brand” gas stations. We have seen problems with
cheaper gas from some discount type outlets.
• We recommend filtering your fuel between your fuel container and your plane’s fuel tank. A high
flow filter, or clunk/filter, between the tank and motor is also a good idea.
• Make sure the plane’s tank is well vented and the fuel clunk moves freely.
• Use of any other fuel or additives such as nitro formulas, aviation gas, white gas, etc., can
harm the motor and void the warranty.
• Do not use silicone sealers on the fuel system. Gas can break it down and carry it into the carb.
• We recommend a high quality synthetic oil. As for the brand of oil, there are many good ones on the
market. Some oils, and their mix ratios, that Desert Aircraft recommends are: Red-line Two Stroke
Racing Oil (40 to 1), Motul 800 (50 to 1), and Stihl HP Ultra (50 to 1). These oils can be found at
most motorcycle or chainsaw shops.
Break-in
• We do not recommend breaking the engine in on a test stand. The stationary load and lack of air
ducting can lead to engine over heating.
• Special break in props are not required. Just don't start with something beyond the recommended
sizes. Over loading the engine creates excessive heat. Peak rpm should be over 6,000 during the
break-in process.
• Adjust the needles as needed and give the engine a few easy flights. The needles may need
adjustment as the engine settles in and when other things change such as different props, exhaust,
weather, and altitude.
• The engine should run well from the beginning and improve as flight hours accumulate.
Recommended Props
• Always check and tighten prop bolts before each flight! Loose prop bolts allow prop movement,
which will shear the bolts.
• Always use the correct length prop bolts. If a spinner back plate is not used, the prop bolts may be
too long and can bottom out in the hub before they fully tighten against the prop washer.
• While special break-in props are not generally required, they can help speed up the break-in process
and reduce the risk of over loading/heating the motor.
• Some recommended props are:
Wood: 26x12, 27x10, 28x10
Mejzlik Carbon: 26x12, 28x10
Mejzlik Carbon 3 blade: 24x12S, 25x12
• The DA100 has a very wide power band. The "normal" peak operating rpm for break-in is 6,000 to
6,500 rpm, and 5,700 to 6,800 rpm for normal aerobatics after break-in.
• Smaller diameter props with more pitch, especially 3 blades, can reduce tip speed and noise.
• Always use a drill guide to drill your props.
• Always check the balance of your prop.
• For safety, we recommend painting the tips of your props (front and back) with a bright color,
especially on black props.
4
Starting
1. Check that prop bolts are tight and spinner is secure.
2. Make sure the starting area is free of dirt, sand, gravel, or other loose debris
3. Turn on the radio system and check the throttle operation and position.
4. Have someone (with eye protection) firmly hold the plane.
5. Close the choke completely.
6. Open the throttle to approximately 1/4 position.
7. Turn on the ignition. ALWAYS BE PREPARED FOR THE MOTOR TO START ON ANY FLIP OF
THE PROP, whether the ignition switch is on or off!
8. Always wear a heavy leather glove when starting the motor.
9. Give the prop a quick, firm, flip counter clockwise. Follow through quickly as you flip the prop so
your hand is out of the propeller's path. Repeat until the motor fires or “pops”.
10. Open the choke.
11. Set throttle to idle position. (carb butterfly plate slightly open)
12. Flip the prop again until the motor runs.
13. Let the motor warm up for 15 or 20 seconds before advancing the throttle.
Needle Adjustments
• The needle farthest from the motor is the “High RPM” needle. The needle closest to motor is the
“Low RPM” needle. Turning the needles clockwise “leans” the fuel mixture. Turning the needles
counter-clockwise “richens” the fuel mixture.
• Settings will vary with altitude, temperature, humidity, fuel, carb variances, etc. A general starting
point is: 1 1/2 open on the Low needle, 1 1/2 open on the High needle.
• Adjusting either needle can have a slight effect on the other. Example: leaning the low needle can
"slightly" lean the high range.
• Adjust the High RPM needle to peak rpm. A tachometer is a great help, but remember that the RPM
may drop a little bit after every start due to residual heat build up. Don’t lean the mixture any more
than necessary. If the rpm steadily drops at full throttle or fades on long vertical maneuvers, the
motor is too lean and is over heating.
• Adjust the Low RPM needle until you achieve a smooth idle and a reliable transition to high throttle.
Generally if the motor “stutters” or “coughs” in the mid range or when the throttle is advanced, the
low end needle is too rich and possibly even the high end needle. If the motor dies quickly, the low
end is probably lean.
• Don't set the needles overly rich to protect the engine. Operating the motor overly rich not only
reduces power, it creates other problems such as poor transition, pre-mature carbon build up, fouled
plugs, excessive exhaust residue, sticking rings, and overall rough running.
Trouble Shooting
Motor won't start
• Check battery voltage ( should be 5.0+ volts) and all ignition connections, wiring and switches. Wires
can break from vibration near connectors. Check and/or swap out regulator.
• Check tank venting, clunk position, and fuel flow.
• Does fuel move towards the carb when the prop is flipped?
• If carb isn’t priming, is choke plate closing completely? Is the carb or carb mount loose causing an
air leak? Look for fuel seepage.
• Is throttle set at idle or slightly higher after motor “pops” and choke is opened?
(Cont'd)
5
• Make sure prop is flipped over with authority. The ignition won’t fire at low speed.
• If a lot of fuel drips from carb, the motor might be flooded. If so, remove and dry, or replace, the
spark plugs. Try starting again without using the choke.
Other issues
• Fuel drips continually from carb: Check that the pin on the center of the diaphragm is inserted in the
metering lever “fork”. Make sure there is no debris in the needle seat. Remove needles and blow
air into the holes.
• RPM won’t go over 3,500 to 4,000: Check that the polarity of the connection between sensor and
ignition is correct (not plugged in backwards).
• Broken prop bolts: In order for bolts to shear, some type of side loading (shear) movement is
usually required. If the bolts are tightened correctly, nothing moves and prop bolts will rarely break.
It’s a good idea to replace prop bolts routinely. Check prop bolts before each flight!
• Excessive vibration: Check that low rpm needle setting is not too rich. Check prop and spinner
balance. Make sure ignition timing is correct.
• Pink or purple colored cylinders: These colors indicate engine temperature has been too high.
Check that needle settings are not too lean, air flow for cooling is sufficient, oil/gas mixture is
correct.
• Engine starts backwards: Make sure prop is flipped forcefully through the compression stroke.
Without enough force, the prop may "bounce" off compression and run backwards.
Maintenance
• Being a high performance 2 stroke engine, certain parts can wear quickly. Under normal operation,
pistons, piston rings, needle bearings, spark plugs, etc. may need occasional non-warranty
replacement to insure peak performance.
• Screws can come loose! After a few flights check that all screws are secure. Periodically check that
all screws are tightened to the correct torque rating. It's recommended to replace, rather than re-use
the red aluminum screws.
Remember! This motor can stop at any time, for a variety of reasons. Do not fly
your plane in a way that damage or harm will result if the motor stops running. If
you cannot safely fly your plane if the engine stops for any reason, do not fly the
plane.
Desert Aircraft will not be responsible for damage caused in engine–out situations.
DA100 WARRANTY
Your DA100 motor and ignition system are covered with a 3 year warranty
by Desert Aircraft, starting from the date of purchase.
• This warranty covers defects in workmanship and materials only.
• Do not disassemble the motor or ignition system. Disassembly of the motor or ignition system can
void the warranty on that item.
• Any modifications to the motor, or the ignition system, other than those authorized by Desert Aircraft,
will void this warranty.
This warranty does not cover the following:
• Shipping expenses to and from Desert Aircraft for warranty service.
• Damage caused by improper handling, operation, or maintenance.
• Damage caused by a crash.
• Damage caused by using improper fuel or additives.
• Damage incurred during transit to Desert Aircraft. WRAP AND PACK ENGINE CAREFULLY!!
DESERT AIRCRAFT
1815 S. Research Loop
Tucson, AZ 85710 USA
Ph 520 722 0607 Fax 520 722 5622
Email info@desertaircraft.com
Web www.desertaircraft.com
7
Repair/Return Form (Please make copy)
Please fill out and enclose this form when shipping items for service
Items in Box:
DESERT AIRCRAFT
1815 S. Research Loop
Tucson, AZ 85710
520 722 0607
info@desertaircraft.com
www.desertaircraft.com