CONTENTS

I. UNPACKING AND SET UP ........................................................................................................................................ 1

A. Parts Provided ................................................................................................................................................ 1
B. Machine Test.................................................................................................................................................. 1
C. Settings .......................................................................................................................................................... 1
a. Setting Temperature .............................................................................................................................. 1
a1. Setting Temperature Alarm Value(AL & AH) ........................................................................................ 1
a2. Setting Upper & Lower Temperature Limits......................................................................................... 2
b. Setting Humidity(AS) .............................................................................................................................. 2
c. Calibrating the Temperature Transmitter(CA) ........................................................................................ 2
d. Heating Component ................................................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined.
D Illustration ...................................................................................................................................................... 2
II. USING YOUR INCUBATOR....................................................................................................................................... 2
III. INCUBATING TIPS .................................................................................................................................................. 3
A. Egg and Incubator Hygiene ............................................................................................................................ 3
B. Healthy stock ................................................................................................................................................. 3
C. Age of breeding stock .................................................................................................................................... 4
D. Hatching eggs selection ................................................................................................................................. 4
E. First Season Eggs ............................................................................................................................................ 4
F. Collection and storage of hatching eggs......................................................................................................... 4
G. Other factors affecting results ....................................................................................................................... 5
H. Consistent temperature ................................................................................................................................ 5
III. TROUBLESHOOTING .............................................................................................................................................. 5
IV. FAQ ....................................................................................................................................................................... 7
V. General Tips About Egg Incubation ........................................................................................................................ 8
I. UNPACKING AND SET UP
A. Parts Provided
Incubator x 1 Power Cord x 1 User Manual x 1

B. Machine Test
IT’S RECOMMENDED TO PERFORM MACHINE TEST BEFORE HATCHING EGGS IN CASE
INCUBATED EGGS GO BAD. DO NOT PUT ANY EGGS INTO INCUBATOR WHEN TESTING.
1. Check that the incubator motor is connected to the controller.
2. Plug in the power cord.
3. No need to turn on the switch on the panel of the unit.
4. Temperature and humidity of this unit won’t reach to the setting value when you newly plug in the power cord,
and this unit will send out alarms of low temperature and low humidity.
5. Cancel the alarm by pressing any green button.
6. Unpack the incubator and fill the water channel will help to increase humidity gradually.(Warm water is
preferred.)
7. The interval for egg turning is set at 2 hours. Please pay close attention to egg turning at first use. The eggs are
gently rolled right and left by 45 degrees for 10 seconds and then at random directions. Do not put on the cover
for observation.

C. Settings

The incubator will turn eggs after pressing RESET button. Hatching time will be reset after long pressing RESET
button. The factory default settings will be restored after simultaneously pressing RESET and ON/OFF switch.
a. Setting Temperature
The incubator temperature is set at 38°C(100°F) before shipment. User can adjust temperature according to the
egg category and local climate. If the incubator cant reach to 38°C(100°F) after working for several hours, please
check:(1) the setting temperature is above 38°C(100°F) (2) the fan is not broken (3) the cover is closed (4) the
room temperature is above 18°C(64.4°F).
1. Press button “Set” once.
2. Press button “+” or “-” to set required temperature.
3. Press button “Set” to exit setting process.
a1. Setting Temperature Alarm Value(AL & AH)
The alarm value for high and low temperature is set at 1°C(33.8°F) before shipment.
For low temperature alarm(AL):
1. Press button “SET” for 3 seconds.
2. Press button “+” or “-” until “AL” is illustrated on the temperature display.
3. Press button “Set”.

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4. Press button “+” or “-” to set required temperature alarm value.
For high temperature alarm(AH):
1. Press button “Set” for 3 seconds.
2. Press button “+” or “-” until “AH” is illustrated on the temperature display.
3. Press button “Set”.
4. Press button “+” or “-” to set required temperature alarm value.
a2. Setting Upper & Lower Temperature Limits
For example, if the upper limit is set at 38.2°C(100.8°F) while lower limit is set at 37.4°C(99.3°F), the incubator
temperature can only be adjusted within this range.
b. Setting Humidity(AS)
The humidity is set at 60% before shipment. User can adjust humidity according to the egg category and local
climate.
1. Press button “Set” for 3 seconds.
2. Press button “+” or “-” until “AS” is illustrated on the temperature display.
3. Press button “Set”.
4. Press button “+” or “-” to set required humidity value.
The product will make alarm calls at low temperature or humidity. Re-set the temperature or add water will
solve this problem.
c. Calibrating the Temperature Transmitter(CA)
The thermometer is set at 0°C(32°F) before shipment. If it illustrates a wrong value, you should put a calibrated
thermometer into the incubator and watch for the temperature differentials between calibrated thermometer
and controller.
1. Calibrate the the transmitter dimension.(CA)
2. Press button “Set” for 3 seconds.
3. Press button “+” or “-” until “CA” is illustrated on the temperature display.
4. Press button “Set”.
5. Press button “+” or “-” to set required dimension.

D Illustration

Display Description Factory Settings

AL Setting low temperature alarm 1°C (33.8°F)
AH Setting high temperature alarm 1°C (33.8°F)
AS Setting humidity 45%
CA Calibrating temperature transmitter 0°C (32°F)
HS Setting upper temperature limit 39.5°C (103.1°F)
LS Setting lower temperature limit 30°C (86°F)

II. USING YOUR INCUBATOR

1. Test your incubator to make sure it works properly.
2. Connect the egg turner to the controlling plug in the incubation chamber.
3. Fill up one or two water channels according to your local humidity level.
4. Set the eggs with the pointy side down
5. Close the cover and start the incubator.
6. Press button “Reset” to set again, the “Day” display will count from 1 and egg turning “Countdown” will
countdown from 1:59.
7. Keep an eye on the humidity display. Fill the water channel when there is a need.(Normally every 4 days)
8. Remove the egg tray with the turning mechanism after 18 days. Put those eggs on the bottom grid and chicks
will come out of their shells.

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9. It’s important that fill up one or several of the water channels to increase humidity and get ready for hatching.
10. Do not open the lid for a long time when hatching, or it will slow hatching speed.

III. INCUBATING TIPS

A. Egg and Incubator Hygiene
 Proper hygiene is essential to achieve good hatching results. Poor hygiene causes chicks to die in their first
10 days of life.
 Only clean eggs should be used for incubation. Dirty eggs are potential carriers of diseases that thrive and
multiply in the ideal heat and moisture conditions of the incubator. If you need to incubate dirty eggs, wash
them first in warm water (44-49oC/111-120oF) that contains disinfectant is recommended (most household
disinfectants are suitable), and dry the eggs quickly after washing with dry cloth.
 Do not soak eggs for more than four minutes to avoid affecting fertility and do not soak eggs in cold water,
as it encourages bacterial penetration through the eggshell.

B. Healthy stock
 It is important that eggs from only a healthy flock are used for hatching, as some diseases can be
transmitted through the egg. The egg-transmittable diseases to be most aware of are salmonella infections,
fowl typhoid and Mycoplasma gallisepticum.
 Eggs laid by birds infected with disease may fail to hatch. Of those that do hatch, some birds may die during
brooding, and the survivors may act as carriers and infect healthy chicks.
 Do not add eggs from unknown sources to make up numbers, as you risk infecting your flock.
Breeding stock nutrition
 The egg provides a complete food store for proper embryo development except gaseous oxygen, which
enters the egg through pores in the shell. Breeding stock must be fed a well-balanced diet to fully meet the
embryos' nutrient requirements.
 The deficient nutrients are usually vitamins or minerals. A deficiency of these in the breeders' diet may not
show any ill effects in the breeders, though hatchability may be affected, which is why different categories
are fed specific diets. Nutritional deficiencies, such as a lack of riboflavin, are the main causes of embryo
mortality during the middle stage of incubation (i.e. between the 12th and 14th days).
 Hens' vitamin and mineral requirements for laying eggs are lower than those of breeders. The breeder's diet
should begin six to eight weeks before hatching eggs are required, with particular attention to vitamin A, D3,
riboflavin, pantothenic acid, biotin, folic acid, vitamin B12 and the mineral manganese.
Deficient nutrient Result
Leads to poor hatchability with a high incidence of malformed embryos, which are
Riboflavin
excessively moist
Lowers hatchability and causes a high incidence of apparently normal embryos to die
Pantothenic acid
over the last two or three days of incubation
Biotin, choline and Leads to abnormal development of the embryo and a condition known as enlarged
manganese hock/slipped Achilles tendon
Leads to a rapid decrease in hatchability and a progressively poorer survival of chicks
B12
that do hatch

C. Age of breeding stock

If the male bird is active, not too large or overweight, and fertile, then his age has little or no effect on
hatchability or the vigour of the chicks. The older the cock bird, the fewer hens he can mate effectively without
loss of fertility. Fertility and hatchability also decrease, as the hen's egg production drops with age, and is highest
during her first and second laying season.

D. Hatching eggs selection

It is important to consider the size, shape and shell texture when selecting eggs for hatching. Best results are

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obtained by setting eggs that are around the average egg weight for the type of poultry.
Since egg size is highly heritable, the rejection of small eggs will help to maintain good egg size in the progeny.
Extra large or small eggs are a handicap in the incubator. The egg shape is hereditary, so continual use of badly
shaped eggs perpetuates and increases this fault.
Only eggs with good shell texture should be used for hatching. Shell texture is not heritable; however,
weak-shelled eggs may crack, enabling bacteria to enter or excessive moisture to be removed from the egg.
Porous-shelled eggs increase the rate of moisture loss during storage and incubation. Hair cracks that are too
small for the naked eye to detect can be found by placing a strong light behind the egg. Egg colour does not affect
hatchability.

E. First Season Eggs

Any fertile egg will hatch in the right conditions but "best practice" is to only hatch hen eggs of 12 months and
older, even 12 month old hen eggs can be smallish depending on when she hatched. If a chook is hatched in
August, Sept Oct, it will produce hatchable eggs at a younger age than one hatched in January Feb Mar. They will
have matured and got their pullet size eggs over and done with through winter, whereas a January hatched pullet
is too young to have started laying before winter therefore their pullet eggs won't start until Spring, BUT because
they are older and stronger when they come into lay, their eggs get bigger quicker if that makes sense. Pullet eggs
will produce small chicks and more often than not these will become smaller hens, who will in turn have smaller
eggs who will have smaller chicks and so on.
In saying that the chicks seem to be just as healthy and if the eggs are a reasonable size I would just go for it, start
adding meat bird crumble to their starter crumble at about 4 weeks old and that will give them a really good
protein boost and they will grow better. Just don't hatch any very petite eggs.

F. Collection and storage of hatching eggs

Embryonic development continues if fertile eggs are maintained above 20°C. Therefore, it is essential to collect
eggs frequently and store them under cool conditions.
Eggs should be collected at least twice daily, and preferably three or four times. For best hatchability, eggs should
be stored no longer than a week before setting.
The best temperature for storing hatching eggs is 10 to 16°C. Storage humidity is also important. Humidity below
70 per cent causes the eggs to lose excessive moisture. Below are the correct wet-bulb readings for a given
humidity at the storage temperature. If you do not have a specific cool room, store the eggs in a cool, dry place.
Eggs stored under conditions where the temperature and humidity vary tend to start and stop incubation,
resulting in pre-incubation and lower hatchability.
Wet-bulb reading
Dry bulb
60% relative humidity 70% relative humidity 80% relative humidity
°C/oF °C/oF °C/oF °C/oF
10/50 6.8 7.4/45.3 8.2/46.7
11.1/52 7.6 8.3/46.9 9.3/48.7
12.2/53.8 8.4 9.4/48.9 10.5/50.9
13.3/56 9.6 10.6/51.1 11.4/52.5
14.3/57.7 10.7 11.5/52.7 12.1/53.8
15.3/59.5 11.5 12.2/54 13.3/56

G. Other factors affecting results

Rough or careless handling when transferring eggs to the hatching compartment or prolonged delays during
transfer, resulting in chilling, may cause embryo deaths.
Excessive inbreeding of poultry may result in lethal or semi-lethal genes, which also cause mortality during
incubation.

H. Consistent temperature
A hen's normal body temperature varies between 40.5 and 41.7°C, depending on the bird and her degree of

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activity at the time. The optimum temperature at the centre of an incubated egg is approximately 37.8°C. When
hatching under a broody hen, the upper surface of the egg may reach 39.2 to 39.4°C but the egg's centre will not
exceed 37.8°C.
In modern fan-forced incubators, the manufacturer's recommended temperature setting is between 37.5 and
37.64°C. The lethal temperature for eggs is 39.4°C. The constant and rapid air movement in this type of incubator
keeps the eggs' temperature the same as the incubator's.
An embryo's heat production increases as incubation progresses. The temperature increase is greatest during the
last two days due to embryo activity. Egg temperature rises up to 2°C above the incubator's ambient air
temperature, which is why the temperature is often lowered by up to 1°C.

III. TROUBLESHOOTING
# Problem Probable causes Action
(a) Check mating ratios according to breeder’s
(a) Wrong proportion of males to females
recommendations
(b) See that cockerels are able to feed separately,
(b) Male is undernourished
otherwise hens may eat all the feed
(c) Do not use too many males; always rear
breeding males together; erect temporary solid
(c) Interference among males during mating
partitions between breeding pens or inside large
pens
(d) See that housing is comfortable and proper
Too many clears
1 (d) Damaged combs and wattles among males drinking fountains are provided for breeding
or infertile eggs
pens
(e) Male is too old (e) Replace old birds
(f) Male is sterile (f) Replace with another male
(g) Do not keep hatching eggs longer than seven
days; store them in a cool temperature
(g) Eggs kept too long or under the wrong (10-l5.6°C) at relative humidity around 75-80%
conditions before setting

(a) Check thermometers, thermostats and

(a) Incubator temperature too high or low electricity supply; follow manufacturer’s
Blood rings, which
instructions
2 indicate very early
embryonic death (b) Use the correct amount of fumigant. Do not
(b) Incorrect fumigation procedure
fumigate between 24 and 96 hours after setting
(c) As in 1(g) (c) As in 1(g)

(a) As in 2(a) (a) As in 2(a)

(b) Check that all components and power

cord are properly connected. And then
Many (b) Eggs not properly turned
3 press RESET for 3 to 5 seconds to observe if
dead-in-shell the eggs are properly turned.
(c) Breeding stocks' nutrition is deficient if deaths
(c) Check that feeding is sound
are high in days 10 and 14
(d) Incubator's ventilation faulty (d) Increase ventilation by normal means

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 (e) Use eggs only from healthy stock; check that
hatchery hygiene is sound and carried out
regularly
(e) Infectious diseases

(a) Increase the evaporating surface of water or

(a) Insufficient moisture in the incubator
Piped eggs failing the sprays
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to hatch
(b) Too much moisture at earlier stages (b) Check wet-bulb readings
(c) Nutrition problem (c) Check flock feeding
(a) Hatching too
(a) Incubator's temperature too high
soon (a) (b) (c) Ensure the temperature regulating gear
5 (b) Hatching too is working and set at the correct operating
(b) Incubator's temperature too low
late temperature when the control switches off
(c) Sticky chicks (c) Incubator's temperature probably too high

(a) Incubator's temperature too high (a) As in 2(a)

6 Malformed chicks (b) Incubator's temperature too low (b) As in 2(a)

(c) Eggs set incorrectly or not properly turned (c) As in 3(b); also, take care to set the eggs
after setting broad-end up;
use wire-meshed tray floors or cover slippery
7 Spraddling chicks Hatching trays too smooth
floors with burlap or other similar material
(a) Incubator or hatching unit overheating (a) As in 5
Weak chick
(b) Setting small eggs (b) Only set eggs of the breed average size
(c) Too little moisture in incubator (c) As in 4
Small chick
(d) Too much fumigant left in hatcher (d) As in 2(b)
(e) Too much moisture in hatcher (e) As in 4
(f) Send chicks to a veterinary laboratory for
Heavy breathing (f) Possibly infectious disease
8 diagnosis
chicks
(g) Low average temperature during period of
(g) As in 2(a)
incubation
(h) Incubator has poor ventilation (i) Omphalitis (navel infection)
(i) Carefully clean out and fumigate the incubator
Mushy chicks
(h) As in 3(d) using formaldehyde at the higher strength;
disinfect all equipment;
set eggs at least once a week and never retain
Hatch not coming
9 Setting eggs too diverse in age or size hatching eggs longer than 10 days before setting;
off evenly
incubate only average-size eggs

IV. FAQ
1. How must I store eggs?
Your eggs need to settle for at least 24 hours if they came through the post. This allows the air cell inside the egg
to return to its normal size. Eggs should always be stored with the pointy end down while they are "in the hold".

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It's a good practice to follow and it will help your hatch!
If you receive eggs that are getting old, you may only let them settle overnight.
2. When is my incubator ready to start incubating?
By the time you have gotten your eggs your incubator should have been running at least 24 hours. A week is even
better. This gives you time to learn what's going to happen in your incubator and allows you to make any
necessary adjustments before setting your eggs. A surefire way to ruin hatching eggs is to put them in the
incubator without having it properly adjusted.
Take note of the term "internal" temperature. Don't confuse internal egg temperature with internal incubator
temperature. The temperature in an incubator changes constantly, rising and lowering. The temperature inside
the egg will be an average of this temperature swing in your incubator.
3. What must the temperature and humidity be inside my incubator?
This is plain and simple, yet the MOST important part of hatching.
Fan Forced incubator: 37.5 degrees C measured anywhere in the incubator.
Humidity: 55% for the first 18 days, 60-65% for the last 3 days in the hatcher.
4. Is my thermometer accurate?
Thermometers go bad. Keeping the temperature accurate can be a struggle, even with very good thermometers.
A nice part about running a big incubator over an extended period is that you can tweak the temperature
regardless of what thermometers tell you.
After the first hatch, you can raise or lower the temperature by what the hatch tells you. If they hatched early the
temperature needs to be lowered. If they hatch late the temperature needs to be raised.
You can check your Thermometer this way. Keep notes on everything you do during the incubation period. As you
learn you'll have these notes to look back on. They will be the most valuable tool that you can have. It won't be
long until you can say "I know what happened, all I need to do is change this one little thing". Soon you will be
able to make adjustments by knowing what to do, instead of guessing.
5. How do I check humidity?
Humidity is checked by way of a hygrometer (wet-bulb thermometer) in conjunction with a regular "dry-bulb"
thermometer. A hygrometer is simply a thermometer with a piece of wick attached to the bulb. The wick hangs in
water to keep the bulb wet (hence the name "wet-bulb thermometer"). When you read the temperature on the
thermometer and hygrometer, you must then compare the readings to a chart to translate from
wet-bulb/dry-bulb reading to "percentage humidity".
From the relative humidity table, you can see.....
60% humidity reads about 30.5°C on a wet-bulb at 37.5°C.
60% humidity reads about 31.6°C on a wet-bulb at 38.6°C.
80% humidity reads about 33.8°C on a wet-bulb at 37.5°C.
80% humidity reads about 35°C on a wet-bulb at 38.6°C.
Getting your humidity to become as accurate as your temperature is nearly impossible. It is almost completely
impossible with a small incubator. Try to get your humidity as close as you can, and you'll be fine. Just being
aware that humidity is important, and trying to get the numbers to come in close will be a huge help to your
hatch.
If you can hold within 10-15% things should turn out fine.
Temperature on the other hand, is CRITICAL. We hate to beat this point to death, but a small deviation in
temperature (even a couple degrees) can and will ruin a hatch. Or, at least turn a potentially great hatch into a
lousy one.
6. An important note about incubator humidity:
As seasons change, so goes humidity. When you are incubating eggs in January and February it will be very
difficult to maintain a humidity that is as high as you like. That's because the outside humidity is so low.
(Depending on where you live). By the same token, when you are incubating in June and July the outside
humidity is usually much greater and the humidity in your incubator will most likely get much higher than you
would like. Hatching problems will change as the season progresses. If you are doing things the same way in July
as you were in January, you have to expect different results. All we are trying to say here is that your incubator
humidity changes directly according to the outside humidity. Low outside, low in the incubator. High outside, high
in the incubator. To adjust for these problems, you need to change the surface area of water in your incubator.
7. What is surface area?
Surface area is "the amount of surface of water exposed to air in your incubator". The depth of water has
absolutely no bearing on the humidity in the incubator (unless the depth is zero). If the humidity is too low in
your incubator, add surface area. Place another pan of water in the incubator, or some small, wet sponges. This

7
will help. Alternatively you can spray the eggs with a fine mist. To decrease the humidity, remove surface area.
Use smaller containers of water, or
undo some of the things you've added.
8. How long will it take to incubate chicken eggs?
The incubation period for chicken eggs is 21 days. You should turn your eggs at least three times a day for the first
18 days, and stop turning after the 18th day (or use a hatcher if you have eggs from different days in the same
machine). This allows the chick time to orient itself inside the egg before piping.
After day 18, KEEP THE INCUBATOR CLOSED except to add water. This will help bring the humidity up to help the
chicks hatch. I know it will kill you not to open the incubator 1000 times when it's this close to hatch time, but it's
not good for the chicks. If you haven't bought an incubator yet, invest the extra couple bucks in the picture
window model. Then you can "see it all" without causing harm to your hatch.

V. General Tips About Egg Incubation

Correct incubation conditions are important for development and hatching of eggs. The required conditions vary
considerably between species, and some species appear more exacting in their requirements than others. Minor
deviations in correct temperature may lead to a slightly shortened or lengthened incubation period, while greater
variation may cause failure to develop or hatch, or result in weak chicks. Incorrect incubation conditions have also
been implicated in some developmental problems of neonatal birds.
In general, correct incubation conditions are most crucial early in incubation, with small variations being tolerated
better by the embryo later in development. For this reason, eggs are sometimes left with the parents initially for
seven to ten days until they have been "set" and transferred to an artificial incubator after this most crucial
period, in the hope that the birds will then lay again. Alternatively, eggs are placed under a broody hen initially,
before being placed in an artificial incubator. Both procedures may improve hatching success compared to
complete artificial incubation.
Egg cleanliness is of vital importance; it has been shown that poor hygiene and dirty eggs may significantly reduce
the percentage of eggs hatching successfully. It is important that the laying sites are clean as well as conditions
following egg collection. Eggs cool down once laid, therefore the contents shrink and air is drawn into the egg:
bacteria may be drawn in at the same time. Invasion of bacteria such as Staphylococcus spp., Salmonella spp. and
Escherichia coli may lead to death of embryos or neonates. Eggs may be cleaner if they are collected immediately
after laying rather than after they have been "set".
Eggs, which are deformed, should not be incubated or placed in incubator.
Eggs which are noted to be cracked at the time of collection are generally discarded, and grossly contaminated
eggs may also be discarded at this time. If such eggs are particularly valuable, they should be separated from
other eggs for incubation, due to the greater risk of infection.
Eggs which become cracked during incubation may be repaired, if the crack is small, with e.g. surgical grade
cyanoacrylate glue, candle wax dripped onto the crack, nail varnish, correction fluid or sticky tape (it has been
suggested that products containing acetone should be avoided, due to possible toxicity. Eggs which are cracked
should be incubated in an incubator (not under parent or broody), with extra care taken in their handling and
monitoring. It is important to ensure that the material used to cover the crack is applied to the minimum surface
of the shell required to seal the crack. A thin layer of bone cement may be applied over a crushed area of shell
and a hole in the shell may be repaired by gluing an appropriate piece if sterilized shell, parafilm, tissue or gauze
over the defect. Care should be taken to avoid sealing over larger areas of the shell than absolutely necessary as

8
this prevents necessary gaseous exchange.
If the shell membranes have been penetrated the egg is likely to have become contaminated with pathogens and
the yolk, embryo or blood vessels may have been physically damaged. Hatchability is greatly reduced.
A piped egg which is being parent or broody incubated and becomes damaged should be moved to a hatching
incubator.
Records: Accurate and detailed records are very important in incubation. All eggs should be individually identified
and details recorded including the identity of the parents, and details of their pedigree, nutrition and breeding
and incubation behavior, initial weight, date of setting, details of incubation such as results of candling, incubator
used, weight loss (if this is being monitored) expected and actual hatching dates, as well as evaluation of the
hatched chick or results of investigation into eggs which fail to hatch.
Parent incubation generally provides the ideal conditions of temperature and humidity for development and
hatching. However, not all species or individuals are equally good sitters, particularly in captive situations, in
which birds may be disturbed and not feel secure. Additionally, small species in particular are vulnerable to
predation while sitting, especially if nesting in an open site. Also, normal incubation behavior may not be suitable
for birds being maintained in an environment very different from their native habitat.
If allowed to sit, hatch and rear their chicks, most birds will produce only one clutch a year, whereas two, three or
even more clutches of eggs may be produced if the eggs are removed.
It may be less easy to monitor parent-sat eggs for fertility and continued development, with an attendant risk of
disturbing the birds.
In captive conditions it may be more likely that nesting materials will not be fresh and clean, but contaminated
with droppings, or include mouldy vegetation.

96/112 egg incubator installation

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