Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

SHKODRA
Shkodra
snapshots
The Marubi photo
collection
Around town
Daytrips to the lake,
beach and mountains
2006 - 2007
N1 - Complimentary copy
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3
CONTENTS
2006 - 2007
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Arriving 5
Getting to Shkodra
The Basics 6
From body language to tipping
History 8
Shkodra has 2400 years of it
Culture & Events 10
Entertainment and festivals
Shkodra City Songs 12
... in a small Shkodra garden, I found you
Shkodra Poetry
... be off to Shkodra, my native town
Where to stay 16
City centre, outskirts and lakeside lodging
Restaurants & Nightlife 18
Fish, pizza, and a bar
Cafs 19
Grab a coffee and watch the world go by
Sheshi Parruce square
Contents
What to see 22
Museums, mosques, churches and parks
Statues & Monuments 24
Fierce freedom fighters and iffy intellectuals
Marubi Photo Collection 26
One of Europes best
Rozafa Castle 28
Shkodras highlight
Around town 29
Bridges, lakes and castles
Lake Shkodra 30
Visiting the Balkans biggest lake
Velipoja 32
The beach and the Buna delta
Getting around 34
Follow that furgon
Mail & Phones 38
Staying in touch
Language 39
Speak shqip
Directory 41
Health, business and officials
Maps & Index
Street index 44
City centre map 45
City map 46
Albania map 48
Index 50
Orthodox Cathedral
Balkans
In Your Pocket
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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
SKOPJE
Skopje
snapshots
The Marubi photo
collection
Around town
Daytrips to the lake,
beach and mountains
N1 - 3
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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
PRISTINA
Football events
Win or lose, this is
where to party
Feature 2 - max
2 lines
Short description of the
feature. Should be max.
3 lines.
2006 - 2007
N1 - Complimentary copy
www.inyourpocket.com
Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
SHKODRA
Shkodra
snapshots
The Marubi photo
collection
Around town
Daytrips to the lake,
beach and mountains
N4 - 400 lek
www.inyourpocket.com
Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
TIRANA
Shopping fever
Tiranas first malls
Facade art
Painting the city pink
2006 - 2007
Getting reliable travel information for
the main cities in the Balkans has
been a problem since the Ill yrians
arrived. Now, the international city
guidebook publisher In Your Pocket
brings you several new English-
language guides to the region, boldl y
going where no city guide has gone
before.
Tirana In Your Pocket & Shkodra In
Your Pocket (Albania); Pristina In Your
Pocket (Kosovo); Skopje In Your Pocket
(Macedonia). Later this year, expect
brand new In Your Pocket guides to
Belgrade (Serbia) and Podgorica
(Montenegro).
Look for the In Your Pocket English-
language travellers guides in local
hotels and tourist offices. The full
content of all 40 In Your Pocket guides
across Europe can be browsed for free
at www.inyourpocket.com, or visit our
site to download the free PDF Instant
Guides to all cities.
4
Shkodra In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
5
2006 - 2007
Arriving by ferry
The ferry from Virpazar in Montenegro (groups only; see p.30)
docks at Shkodras Buna bridge from where you can catch a
city bus into town. For up-to-date information see the trans-
port pages of www.inyourpocket.com/albania/shkodra/en.
Ferries from Italy, Greece and Slovenia dock at the harbour
of Durres, from where theres a daily direct bus to Durres,
departing at 13:15; tickets are 300 lek and the trip takes
about 3 hours. Its also easy to catch a furgon to Tirana and
then an onward furgon or bus to Shkodra.
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
A diamond-shaped city wedged between the Rozafa
Citadel, the magnificent Albanian Alps, deep blue
Lake Shkodra, a 30-kilometre sand beach and the
serene Buna River Delta reservaton - Shkodra is
a diamond in the rough with plenty of potential.
While many visitors quickly breeze though the city,
Shkodras turbulent 2400-year history has left
plenty of interesting relics that make a short stay
in Albanias cultural capital worthwhile. Hundreds
of years of no-nonsense religious and ethnic
tolerance resulted in booming trade, witnessed by
Shkodras grand merchants homes, and dozens
of mosques and Catholic and Orthodox churches
standing in close proximity to each other. With
travel to Albania now easier than ever before,
and the number of visitors to Shkodra increasing,
facilities for travellers are improving rapidly, with
good hotels and several excellent new restaurants
now established.
This new Shkodra In Your Pocket city guide is
the first of its kind here, enabling foreign visitors to
get the most out of the Shkodra. We welcome all
comments about the guide and its content; please
write in to shkodra@inyourpocket.com with your
praise, tips, corrections and complaints! Now, as
the poet Filip Shiroka wrote, be off to Albania on
your flight, off to Shkodra, my native town! Enjoy
Shkodra.
The ruins of the church and mosque
of Rozafa Castle tower over Shkodra
and the snow-capped mountains in
the distance. The ancient castle
i s one of the most i mpressi ve
landmarks in Albania.
Cover story
ARRIVING
Editorial
Managing Editor Jeroen van Marle
Contributors Ridvan Sokoli, Marije
Duoda, Gentjan Mema and Diana
Troshani from the Directorate for
Economic Development in Shkodra
Municipality; Edlira Kruja, local
coordinator of GTZ in Shkodra; Rozeta
Gradeci of UCODEP Shkoder
Layout & Design Tom Haman
Photos Jeroen van Marle;
black & white photos from the Marubi
Photo Collection
Cover photo Rozafa Castle JvM
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Gazmend Haxhia
Sales & Distribution Aldo Merkoci,
aldo.merkoci@inyourpocket.com
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Tirana In Your
Pocket 2001-2006. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearl y marked as such. We welcome all
readers comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
Shkodra & Tirana In Your Pocket
Bl v Dshmort e Kombit
c/o Avis Albania
Hotel Rogner Europapark
Tirana, Albania
tel. (+355) 4 23 50 24
fax (+355) 4 23 50 24
tirana@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1819-2904
IA.S.G. sh.p.k. Hotel Rogner
Europapark
Printed by Shtepia Botuese Pegi,
Lunder, Tirana.
Published: 5000 copies yearl y
Publ i shed by Ti rana I n Your Pocket i n
associ at i on wi t h t he Muni ci pal i t y of
Shkodra, under the programme Local self-
governance, driving force for development
and in partnership with UCODEP (Unity and
Cooperation for Development of People) and
with the financial contribution of the Italian
government, Tuscany Region and GTZ.
Sponsors In Your Pocket
Th er e ar e now
mo r e I n Yo u r
Pockets than ever
before. We conti -
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new gui des now
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All this in addition to
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In Your Pocket now publishes city guides in 40
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and on the Isle of Man later this year. If you want
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Europe In Your Pocket
Arriving by plane
The nearest airport to Shkodra is 75km away in Podgorica,
Montenegro. Apart from a taxi, which will cost 50-70, the
only direct transport to Shkodra is the bus (40, book in
advance) run by the Samsel travel agency in Shkodra. Tirana
International Airport, also called Nn Tereza (Mother Teresa)
or Rinas Airport is 100km to the south. After passport
control, you pay a 10 visa fee (see also visas). Theres
an ABA Bank ATM (accepting Mastercard and Visa cards)
and a public phone that accepts both lek and euro coins
(local/international calls cost from 50/100 lek per minute).
An AMC kiosk (open roughly 09:00 - 17:00 daily) sells SIM
cards for 2000 lek. Outside the arrivals hall, there is an ABA
bank branch with another ATM, and a slew of grinning taxi
drivers; expect to pay 4500-5000 lek (37-41) to get to
Shkodra, and 3000 lek (25) for a trip to the centre of Tirana
(30-45 minutes). Theres no public transport here, and the
cheapest way to get to Shkodra is to take a taxi to Tiranas
train station where you catch a bus or furgon minibus. You
can also gamble on catching a bus or furgon along the main
road take a taxi to the main road near Fushe-Kruje (15
minutes over an awful road) and flag down the first bus or
furgon (the bus should pass here at about 15 minutes past
every hour until 16:15).
Arriving by bus
Buses from Tirana drop passengers off at the Radio Shkodra
building on Sheshi 5 Herontje square, next to the Rozafa hotel
in the centre. The furgon minibuses from Ulcinj in Montenegro
stop right outside the Rozafa hotel. Other furgons can drop
you off in the centre or drop you off along the main road south
of the city centre (G/H-5); taxis and the city bus are at hand
to take you to the city centre; else, walk straight up Rruga
Vasil Shanto for 20 minutes.
Arriving by train
Shkoders train station is a surprisingly clean and pleasant
building at the eastern edge of the city. At present, there
are only two trains per day between Shkodra and Tirana.
However, there are exciting rumours that a weekly passen-
ger service between Shkodra and Podgorica (Montenegro)
will start in July 2006; the rails are already there, though
have been used for freight only. Taxis await arrivals for the
five-minute drive into town, or you could walk straight down
dusty Rruga Revolucioni Antikomunist Hungarez 1956 (Rr.
Stacionit te Trenit) and then right along Rruga Marin Barleti
to reach the main square in about 15 minutes.
Arriving by car
Driving in Albania is an interesting challenge, made even
more fun by the combination of a nearly complete lack of
signs in Shkodra and the cute habit of having streets with
three different names, but no asphalt. To find the city centre,
drivers approaching from Tirana should follow the traffic flow
which turns to the right at the first main roundabout after
passing the castle (Sheshi ne hyre) - after a while theres
another square (Sheshi i Parashit) with a large statue, where
you see a sign pointing the way to the qender (centre). At the
first main crossroad turn left onto Rruga Marin Barleti (if you
pass the Cathedral youre too far) to reach the centre after
200 metres. Those driving from Ulcinj in Montenegro cross
the bridge over the Buna river south of the city; turn left and
follow directions as above. Drivers coming from Podgorica
in Montenegro enter the city from the north; turn left at the
large roundabout with the statue in the middle to find the
central square.
Train at Shkodra station
Dear visitors,
On behal f of al l ci ti zens
I wi sh a warm wel come
to all visitors to Shkodra.
Whatever your reason for
visi ting our ci ty, do take
some time and enjoy your-
sel f taking in the si ghts
and visiting a whole range
of natural attracti ons i n
the area, from the shores
of the largest lake in the
Balkans to the rocky out-
crop of Rozafa Castle, which stands majestically above
our 2400-year-old city.
Shkodra In Your Pocket offers a complete overview
of things to see, do and experience in our city and its
surroundings. It is the first time that we have published
such a guidebook with English-language information on
all Shkodras historical, artistic and natural highlights,
and I would like to thank In Your Pocket and the donors
for making it possible. I hope you enjoy your stay in the
city of Shkodra.
Artan Haxhi
Mayor
From the mayor
6
Shkodra In Your Pocket
7
2006 - 2007
GLOSSARY GLOSSARY
An alphabetical listing of seemingly random useful facts
for the traveller.
Body language and sounds
Albanians, like Bulgarians, Turks, Indians and a handful of others,
shake (or perhaps: wobble) their heads to mean yes and nod
(or rather jerk the head backwards while emitting a bold cluck) to
mean no. Every time you see it done, its a pleasant little culture
shock. To attract attention, Albanians cluck, hiss sh, or in more
desperate cases honk madly, or emigrate to Italy.
City names
Youll find that names of cities (and, for that matter, all other
nouns) have two different endings in Albanian. One is definite (for
instance, Shkodr and Tiran), the other is indefinite (Shkodra and
Tirana), Even when the names appear in English text, translators
dont agree on which version to use. Dont let this throw you.
Crime & Safety
The well-being of honoured guests (you) is a major source
of concern and pride for the locals - a tradition dating back
to Illyrian times - and rather than being mugged, youre more
likely to be overwhelmed with hospitality. Still, the same rules
for personal safety that you follow elsewhere in the world
also apply in Albania. Stay alert at all times, hide valuables or
leave them at home, dont wander around unlit alleys at night.
Shkodra suffers a lack of street lighting, and away from the
main streets in the city centre it can be pitch dark at night.
Customs
Customs inspection is usually cursory, unless youre carrying
loads of electronic goods. Personal items are not subject
to customs fees. Special export permits are required for
precious metals and antiques, including coins, books and
artwork. Travellers may import the following products tax
free. Tobacco (if over 15): 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos,
or 50 cigars or 250gr tobacco; alcohol (if over 18): 1 litre
of spirits or strong liquers (over 22% volume) and 2 litres
distilled drinks (under 22% volume) and two litres of wine; 50g
of perfume; any medical products for personal use; goods
and gifts up to a value of 30,000 lek.
Electricity
When it works, electrical current is 220 Volts; youll need
standard European plugs. The power cut is slowly becoming
an endangered species in Albania, and depends on season
(more in winter) and which area of the city you are in (for a more
reliable supply, try to find out where the politicians have their
apartments). In winter, its important to ask if your room heaters
runs on electricity, and if the hotel has a back-up generators.
Heal th
Although the locals say the water is safe to drink, its probably
best to stick to bottled water, which is readily available.
Shkodra can be very dusty, so contact-lens wearers should
carry eye drops with them or consider wearing glasses.
Travellers should beware of holes or bits of metal sticking
out of the pavement, and missing sewer lids. Piles of garbage
attract stray dogs at night. Pedestrians should use caution
when crossing busy streets, even ones with traffic lights and
dozing policemen. Finally, up-to-date tetanus and hepatitis-B
inoculations are recommended if you want to play it safe and
are staying some length of time in Albania, particularly rural
areas. In case of problems, see the list of clinics on p.41.
Money
The Albanian currency is the lek (plural leke). The exchange
rate is: 1 = 123 lek, 1 = 179 lek, US$1 = 95 lek (5 June
2006). Banknotes come in denominations of 100, 200, 500,
1000 and 5000 lek, while there are coins of 5, 10, 20, 50
and 100 lek. Although hotels and some other services quote
prices in foreign currency, payment is nearly always made
in lek. If payment in foreign currency is possible, it usually
means youre getting a bad rate.
Just recently, Albania became the last country in Europe to
have ATMs (bankomats) connected to the international grid,
and nowadays getting cash using your debit or credit card is
no problem. Albanian ATMs do not charge for transactions,
but your home bank may. In Shkodra, the Raiffeisen and
ProCredit bank ATMs accept foreign cards (both Maestro
and Visa systems).
If you insist on bringing along cash foreign currency, you
can change your euros or dollars at banks and (better)
at exchange offices (see p.41) in town. People who still
believe in travellers cheques in this electronic era can cash
them at most banks at a fee. Finally, the money changers
waving wads of banknotes outside the main mosque offer
competitive rates and are generally honest, but its always
wise to ask the exchange rate and carefully count and
examine the lek they give you.
Roads
Before 1991, onl y Party of fi ci al s were al l owed to own
and dri ve around i n cars. There were about 600 cars
i n Al bani a, most of them del uxe Mercedes and Vol vos.
When the restri cti on was l i f ted, Al bani ans brought
thousands of cars i nto the countr y from I tal y and
Greece. At the ti me, there were no traf fi c regul ati ons,
no dri vers li cense requirements, no traf fi c enforcement
and no traf fi c l i ghts. Fortunatel y, al l thi s has changed.
The qual i ty of the roads has i mproved dramati cal l y and
dri vi ng around i s fun as forei gners gai n new Al bani an
dri vi ng ski l l s.
Scams
Travel l er s shoul d al ways beware of pi ckpocket s,
parti cul arl y i n l arge crowds or on buses. Young boys
may offer to sell you cell cards and telephones, probably
stolen goods. Gold for sale on the streets is also probably
stolen or fake. Taxi drivers are usually honest; however,
its always a good idea to have the hotel or restaurant
phone a reliable taxi from the list on p.35, or negotiate a
fare before getting in the car.
Street smarts
Heres a typical Albanian address: Rr. Sami Frashri, Pall.
20/1, Shk. 1, Ap. 8. And heres how to decipher it: Rr.
means rruga, or street; Sheshi is square. The abbreviation
P or Pall. stands for pallati (building, or block of flats).
Shk. stands for shkall (entrance - since there is often
more than one), and Ap. means apartment. Unfortunately
for gui debook wri ters and other forei gners, Al bani an
addresses often do not include street numbers. Instead,
a close landmark (like a building, school, ministry, statue,
etc) is mentioned for reference, prefaced by pran (near),
or prball (in front of). The medieval logic behind this is
that the locals know where it is and you can ask them, so
why bother painting an ugly number on it when you can
sit down and have a nice cup of coffee instead? In this
guide we mention these landmarks where necessary, and
together with our map references we hope youll find your
destination.
Other terms you may encounter:
blloku = block of flats
Blv. = bulevardi = boulevard
kryq = cross
kulla = tower
qndra = center
rrugic = alley
sheshi = square
udhkryq = intersection
ur = bridge
Shkodra is hot and dry in summer, and cool and wet (but
rarely cold) in winter. The graph below shows the average
maximum daily temperature and the average precipita-
tion. Average temperatures in Shkodra vary between 5
and 26C, with measured extremes at -22 and 43C.
There are 2600 sun hours per year. The average annual
rainfall is 1700mm, and snow usually doesnt stay on the
ground for more than a week each winter.
Climate
Old habits die hard, and old Albanian habits in particular
never seem to die. Take the currency, the lek. In 1964
and 1991, a zero was cut from the currency and new
banknotes and coins introduced to make the numbers
easier to handle. But still, youll get sometimes get
quoted amounts in old leks in shops. This is not to rip
you off its just an old habit thats just as comfy as
those awful slippers you wear at home, and even if you
do put down ten times the amount necessary, youll get
the right change. Even though all the signs and price
tags in shops are new lek, not all Albanian minds have
made the transition.
Old habits - new leks
Famous Shkodrans include:
King Gent (2nd century BC)
Marin Barleti, first Albanian historian (15th/16th century)
Kara Mahmut Pash Bushatlliu, leader and states-
man (18th century)
Pashko Vasa, Prizren League ideologist
Gjergj Fishta, poet
Luigj Gurakuqi, politician and the first education min-
ister in the first Albanian government
Mikel Koliqi, Cardinal of the Roman-Catholic Church
Pjetr, Kel und Geg Marubi, photographers
Arshi Pipa, writer and scholar
Migjeni, poet
Tinka Kurti, artist
Bik Ndoja, singer of Shkodra city songs
Jozefina Topalli, Speaker of the Albanian Parliament
Ernest Koliqi, Writer and researcher
Fadil Kraja, Playwright
Skender Drini, Writer
Sons and daughters
0
50
100
150
200
250
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
r
a
i
n
f
a
l
l

(
m
m
)
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
t
e
m
p
e
r
a
t
u
r
e

(

C
)
rainfall average daily temp. (max) average daily temp. (min)
www.shkoder.net The best local English-language
site; history, photos, cultural information and some
jokes.
www.infoshkodra.com - In Albanian only, but worth
visiting for the easily browsed photo galleries.
www.saraci.it/shkoder A good collection of old
photos of Shkodra.
www.shkodra.gov.al The muni cipali ty websi te;
Al bani an onl y but wi th some great background
music.
Shkodr@
Lost for choice
Tipping
Its customary to tip about 10% or round up to the nearest
lek note at restaurants and bars, and for short taxi rides. At
restaurants the tip is usually given directly to the waiter upon
paying, rather than left on the table.
Visas
All citizens of Western European countries, US, Canada,
Australia, New Zealand, Israel, Japan, Turkey, Croatia,
Romania, Bulgaria, Malaysia and Singapore need a visa, but
can simply can buy one at the border, port or airport for 10
(in cash euros please; pounds and US dollars are sometimes
grumpily accepted too). Citizens from Poland and Slovenia
enter for free; those from Malta and Israel pay 30.
Travellers of most other nationalities need to get a visa from
an Albanian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling to
Albania. Before you set off, confirm your entry requirements
at the nearest Albanian embassy or consulate. Note that the
silly 10 departure tax has been abolished in early 2006.
8
Shkodra In Your Pocket
9
2006 - 2007
HISTORY HISTORY
By the seventh century BC, the Ill yrians (the apparent
ancestors of the Albanian nation) settle in what is now
Albania. Shkodra, known as Scodrinon, becomes the capital
of the Illyrian empire in 181 BC. In 168 BC the Romans defeat
the Illyrians and establish the protectorate of Illyricum.
Shkodra becomes an important trade town on the main route
between the Dalmatian coast and Kosovo.
4th-13th Centuries
The Roman Empire is divided in 395 AD, and the territory of
todays Albania falls into the Eastern (Byzantine) Empire. In
the centuries that follow, this territory is invaded by the Huns,
the Visigoths and the Ostrogoths. Slavs invade the north in
the 11th century. The Byzantine Empire re-conquers the
region several times.
14th Century
Shkodra is a well-developed trading town, and in 1360
becomes centre of the Balshaj Principality. In 1396 this falls
to the Venetians who rename the town Scutari and reinforce
the castle. The Ottomans invade what is now Albania in
1385, finally capturing Shkodra in 1479. Their rule lasts
more than 500 years.
15th Century
Skanderbeg, the Al bani an l eader, wages a war of
independence against the Ottomans starling in 1443 and
enjoys remarkable success until his death in 1468.
16th Century
The Ottoman Empire conquers Durres, the last strong-hold of
independent Albania, in 1501. The most ancient book known,
published in Albanian language dated in 1555.
18th Century
As Ottoman power wanes, Albanian feudal rulers called
beys arise and flourish. Their holdings are merged into two
semi-autonomous estates called pashalik. Shkodra is the
centre of the Bushatllinje Pashalik, whose leader Mahmut
Pashaj etablishes an independent Albanian principate, only
to be suppressed by the Ottoman Empire. Shkodra now has
50,000 inhabitants and is a booming trade town, with six
foreign consulates, a chamber of commerce and a bazaar
with 2500 shops and 80 professions.
19th Century
In the 1830s, the Ottomans crush Albanian autonomy.
Uprisings break out over taxation policy in the 1840s. In
the mid-1800s, intellectuals begin to promote the teaching
of Albanian (prohibited under Ottoman rule). After Russia
defeats the Ottoman Empire, the Prizren League is founded
in 1878 to tight for autonomy and against the partitioning of
Albanian territory. A provisional government is proclaimed in
1881 but is soon crushed by the Ottomans
20th Century
Local uprisings break out in 1909-1912. After other Balkan
states declare war on the feeble Ottoman Empire, Albanians
proclaim independence In Vlora on November 28, 1912.
The Treaty of London recognises Albania in 1913, but
Kosovo is given to Serbia. In 1914, during WWI, Italy invades
Albania. In 1920 Albania regains independence. Under Fan
Noli, Albanias first, short-lived democratic government is
formed in 1924.
In 1925 Ahmet Zogu becomes president of the new Republic
of Albania. But in 1928 Zoqu proclaims a kingdom and crowns
himsel f King Zog I. On April 7, 1939, Italy invades again,
occupying Albania until 1943, when the Germans take over.
In November 1944 the Germans retreat. The Communist led
National Liberation Front takes power. Yugoslavia, Albanias
erstwhile ally, tries to absorb the country causing Albania to
break with Belgrade in 1948.
The Communists attempt to rebuild this poor, rural land into
an industrial state. Forced collectivisation and harsh political
persecution ensue. Even after 1956, when most of Eastern
Europe undergoes de-Stalinization, Albania maintains a
hard-line stance. It criticises the Soviet Union, with which it
breaks relations in 1961. In 1968, after the Soviets invade
Czechoslovakia, Albania withdraws from the Warsaw Pact.
After falling out with Moscow, Albania cultivates relations
with China. Imitating Beijing, Albania purges reactionary
influences. In its own version of the Cultural Revolution in
1967, it outlaws religion and closes all 2169 of the countrys
churches and mosques. The regi mes Stal i ni sm and
xenophobia make Albania one of the worlds most isolated
countries. In 1978 the leadership condemns even China as
revisionist, and the alliance collapses. The subject of an
intense personality cult, longtime Party head Enver Hoxha
dies on April 11, 1985.
1990
After the totalitarian regimes collapse everywhere else
in Eastern Europe, Communist Party leader Ramiz Alia
announces a cautious democratisation in March. Reform
comes slowly. The Peoples Assembly rescinds the ban
on religion and on travel abroad in May. In July, Albanians
seek asylum in foreign embassies after security forces fire
on pro-democracy rallies. In October, celebrated Albanian
author Ismail Kadare seeks asylum in Paris. Later, students
demonstrate against substandard dormitory conditions, and
for a multi-party system. On 12 December the Democratic
Party is founded Albanias first non-Communist party in
the postwar era. In Shkodra, 13 December sees the first
violent anti-Communist street protests; many shops on Rr.
13 Dhjetori are destroyed and the street later gets named
after the date. A week later, the authorities dismantle the
statue of Stalin in Tirana.
1991
In February, students at Tiranas Enver Hoxha University
launch a strike, demanding reforms; weeks of protests
cul mi nate i n the toppl i ng of Enver Hoxhas statue i n
Skenderbeg Square.
Waves of refugees flee the country in March. Diplomatic
relations with the United States are restored, a month later
with the United Kingom.
On March 31 the first multi-party elections in 68 years result
in a victory for the Communists. On April 29 the Republic of
Albania is proclaimed.
A general strike on May 16 leads to the resignation of the
Communist government. A multi-party government is then
formed, the first in 47 years. Massive crowds greet visiting
U.S. Secretary of State James Baker in June, but the faults
in the economy become clear when thousands of Albanians
seeking asylum in Italy commandeer ships. An estimated
100,000 Albanians had fled the country in the previous
12 months.
1992
The Democratic Party defeats the Socialists (the former
Communists) in national elections in March. Ramiz Alia
resigns as president and is replaced by Sali Berisha.
1993
Pope John Paul II visits Albania in April, consecrating the
new archbishop in Shkodras Cathedral. In July, Socialist
Party chairman Fatos Nano is arrested on charges of
corruption.
1996
The Democratic Party wins national elections by a landslide
in May. The Socialists allege voting irregularities.
1997
Collapsing pyramid schemes spark months of rioting and
lawlessness throughout Albania in January. A multiparty
government of national reconciliation is agreed upon to stave
off the countrys slide into anarchy.
In June, parliamentary elections, held amidst nationwide
unrest, result in a landslide victory for the Socialists. Berisha
resigns as president.
1999
In response to Serb attacks on ethnic Albanians in Kosovo,
NATO launches an air war on Yugoslavia on March 25. The
war turns Albania into a NATO base of operations, as well as
a vast Kosovar refugee camp: by May 500,000 Kosovars
have flooded into the country.
2001
The Socialist Party, led by Fatos Nano, is re-elected during
violent elections. In October, Edi Rama, a former art lecturer
and painter supported by the Socialist Party, is elected
mayor of Tirana.
2002
Alfred Moisiu, a former general, is elected president; he is
the only candidate. In October, Geraldine of Albania, wife of
the late King Zog, dies in Tirana aged 87. In December, three
ministers resign, accused of corruption, producing a majority
crisis for the Socialist Government.
2004
Some 20,000 people march in Tirana against Prime Minister
Fatos Nano and his Socialist-led government.
2005
In July, Sali Berishas Democratic Party wins the national
elections from Fatos Nanos Socialists, and returns to power
after 8 years, his party now controlling 80 seats in the new
140-seat parliament. The election results are delayed after
allegations of voting irregularities and three deaths. OSCE
monitors report that the elections only partially complied
with international standards, and that little progress has
been made since the last elections.
In June, novelist Ismail Kadare wins the first international
version of Britains Man Booker Prize.
2006
In February, Albania signs the Stabilisation and Association
Agreement with the EU, seen as the very first step towards
closer cooperation and eventually membership of the EU.
Population: Al bania 3,135,000; Ti rana 750,000,
Shkodra 110,000 (2005 estimate).
Albanias population growth rate is 0.97% per year, the
highest in Europe. The population of Tirana is growing
as a result from migration, especially from the northeast
of Albania.
Shkodra specifics
Shkodra is the largest city in Northern Albania with
110.000 inhabitants. Its 90km from Tirana, 36km from
the border with Montenegro at Hani i Hotit, 60km from
Podgorica, and 32km from the beach at Velipoja.
Ethnic composition: 99% Albanians, 1 % Greeks and
Macedonians.
Religious composition (estimated): 70% Muslim,
20% Orthodox, 10% Catholic. After decades of religious
oppression, only 30-40% of Albanians are practicing
believers.
The Albanian nation: Apart from those living in Albania
proper, there are two million ethnic Albanians in Kosovo,
hundreds of thousands in Macedonia and Montenegro,
and an estimated two million in the United States,
Switzerland, Germany, Greece, Italy and Canada.
Geography
At 28,748 sq. km, Albania is a bit larger than Maryland
or Wales. Major rivers are the Drini, Semani and Vjosa.
Major lakes are Shkodra, Ohrid and Prespa. The highest
mountain is Mt. Korabi, at 2751 m.
Local Time
Albania is in the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1).
During daylight savings time (end of April to end of
October), the time is GMT+2. When it is noon in Albania,
it is 06:00 in New York, 11:00 In London and 12:00
in Berlin.
Basic data
The Al-Zamil mosque Dozing Bulldozer
10
CULTURE & EVENTS
Shkodra In Your Pocket
Theatre & Opera
Migjeni Theatre Sheshi 5 Heronjte, tel. 423 46/437
58. Plays, concerts and other events; plays are mostl y
in Albanian but sometimes an I talian group drops by. Q
Admission 200-500 lek.
Cinema
Kinema Millennium D/E-2, Rr. Marin Barleti, tel. 49
16. Shkodras grand cinema, just west of the main square,
has a few screenings per day of recent films, all in the original
language with Albanian subtitles. Theres a popular caf in
front of the building too. Q Tickets 150-250 lek.
Library
Luigj Gurakuqi University Library E-1, Sheshi Dugajt e
Reja, tel. 427 86. Inside the Faculty of Natural Sciences.
Marin Barleti Library B/C-3, Sheshi 2 Prilli, tel. 423
07/069 258 42 24, bibliogj@yahoo.com. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Fri, Sat.
Sports
FC Vllaznia B-1, Rr. Musa Luli, tel. 423 05, www.fcvl-
laznia.com. Shkodra is proud of its football club, which plays
home games in the stadium just west of Sheshi 5 Heronj te
square along Rr. Bujar Bishanaku. Vllaznia was founded in
1919 and is Albanias oldest sports club.
August
I f youre in town in August, look out for the Shkodra
Jazz Festival, when a host of Albanian and international
bands come to play jazz. In the succesful 2005 edition,
there were some 16 bands in total, and this year, Mano
Manoush from France has been invited. Concerts are
held at the theatre and a small admission fee is charged.
The festival will probably be held on Aug 26-27 from
19:30 each night check posters, the website www.
omionweb.com or ask the Italian consulate, one of the
sponsors, to be sure.
Shkodra Jazz Festival
September
The real Giffoni international childrens film festival takes
place in Giffoni, a small town in southern Italy. After that,
however, it goes on a tour of the world, and one of the
stops is Albania, where it will be held in the first or second
week of September. In Shkodra, the Millennium cinema
will be showing various films from the festival. Further
details were not known at time of writing, so contact the
cinema for further details, or surf to www.giffoniff.it.
Giffoni Film Festival
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The Migjeni Theatre
Photo removed to make this download version
of Shkodra In Your Pocket lighter;
refer to a print version, available locall y, for all photos.
12
Shkodra In Your Pocket
The people of Shkodra have the
reputation of being good-humoured,
tolerant and happy, and perhaps
this all has l ed to the wonder ful
local songwriting tradition. Shkodra
has devel oped a special kind of
musi c over the centuries that is
quite different from anything else in
Albania of the Balkans, somewhat
clumsily called citizen or urban
songs.
Traditionally, the music made in the
villages of the mountain regions
consists of simple rhythms, with
patri oti c themes or tal ki ng of
shepherd l i fe, and was used at
weddings and other ceremonies;
less susceptible to change, this is
still the most authentic music in
Albania. In Shkodra, altogether more
sophisticated music was made, with
lyrical, romantic texts, a restrained tempo and oriental-
sounding scales. Uniquely, Shkodras tradition of religious
tolerance means that the songs were common and popular
among all communities, Muslim, Catholic and Orthodox,
and the songs were greatly influenced by this multicultural
mentality combined with the beauty of the houses and
gardens of this merchant city.
Unti l recentl y the songwri ters craf ti l y used symbol s
and metaphors to get around cer tai n taboos that
exi sted at the ti me, maki ng odes to fl owers rather
than addressi ng the woman they had thei r eyes set
on; nowadays songs are more di rect but no l ess l yri cal.
The topi cs change a l i ttl e wi th the ti mes too, wi th some
songs now addressi ng the pai n of mi ssi ng peopl e who
have mi grated abroad. The two texts bel ow are of the
most popul ar songs.
When it comes to city songs, both men and women can
play instruments and sing; there are group songs but
also solo songs (called jare) which are very demanding
of a singers talents. Instruments used include clarinets,
violins, harmoniums, the def (a type of drum), the dajre
(tambourine), and the saz, a sleek, long-necked lute with
three strings. I f you visit the Marubi photo exhibition youll
see beauti ful shots of groups of musicians posing with their
instruments, invariably seated around a plate of sweets
and a few glasses of raki.
Shkodras long relationship with music lead to a number of
Albanian firsts. The first brassband was formed here in 1878
and there are still occasional brass band festivals, the last
held in April 2006. In the 1930s the first public concerts took
place, with music presented as something to enjoy rather
than merely as the backdrop to an event, with both men and
women performing. The Catholic cardinal of Shkodra was
involved in setting up the first public music house shows in
1936. Early shows staged there included topics such as the
legend of Rozafa, the brutal Turkish siege of Shkodra, the
Turkish invasion, and the Albanian flag. In 1913 Franciscan
monks wrote Albanias first opera, though never performed
it the first opera premiere was here in 1968.
Under the repressive post-war regime, songwriters had it
difficult, with obligatory nationalistic texts being sung and
some old religious-themed songs changed for poli tical
reasons but even at the time these changes were disliked.
Albania has changed immensely since the early days of
citizen songs, with modern communications and mass
emigration both influencing songs and bringing competition
in the form of foreign pop, but theres strong proof that the
tradition will survive, with new and newly interpreted songs
regularly hummed on th streets.
I f youre interested in hearing the
typical citizen songs, ask CD and
cassette vendors for musi c by
ar ti sts such as Shygyri Al ushi ,
Xhevdet Hafizi, Lui j a Mil oti, Bik
Ndoj a ( famed for hi s jare), and
Buj ar Qami l i . Bet ter sti l l , head
for the Vi val di restaurant near
the Cathedral (see p.18), or set
out to the Taverna Shkodrana
r est aur ant on t he l akeshor e
between Shiroke and Zogaj (see
p. 20), both of whi ch have l i ve
music every weekend. True fans
can buy the book Albanian Urban
Lyric Song in the 1930s by Eno
Koco (Scarecrow Press, I SBN
0810848899), for sale at amazon.
com for $78 (includes CDs).
Tuj kerku nare dhe koder
Tuj prek lulet gjith me dore
Ve nnji kopesht te vogel nShkoder
Ty te gjeta lulebore
Je e vogel, por je plot
Ty tkerkoj une tash sa mot
Tash sa mot une ty tkerkoj
Ngezim me ty jeten ta shkoj
Eja, eja lule bore
Une me ty do thur kunor
Pashe ma te bukuren stine prandvere
Pashe mretneshen drandofill
Mos tja falish kujt ti eren
Se per mu vetem ke ile
I searched fields and hills
I touched flowers everywhere
Only in a small Shkodra garden
I found you, snow flower.
Youre small but cheerful
Youre the one Im looking for
Many years I was trying
Finding joy in life with you, my lover
Come, come snow flower
You and I will merge together.
I saw the most beautiful spring
I saw the Rose Queen
Dont give your flavour to anyone
Because you are the one for me
Lule Bore Snow flower
Pranvera filloi me ardh,
Dhe bylbyli nis me kndue;
Njajo drandofillja e bardh,
Del ndritare me ndigjue.
O shpirt sa t due,
Sbashku jetn me e kalue.
Rreth e rreth Shkodrs jam sjell,
Lule mlule tue shetit;
Ndr ma tbukrat ty tkam zgjedh,
Porsi hylli i bukuris.
O shpirt sa t due,
Sbashku jetn me e kalue.
Kanarinn e merr malli,
Smundet kuj me i diftue,
Se bylbyli asht i pari,
Edhe un i kam besue,
O shpirt sa t due,
Sbashku jetn me e kalue.
Spring started to come
And the nightingale sang
The white rose
In the window
Oh, my sweetheart, how I love you
We should live together
Ive been all around Shkodra
Ive seen flower and flowers
You have been the most beautiful
Like the poppy in the woods
Oh, my sweetheart, how I love you
We should live together
The canary misses you
Cant tell it to you
Because the nightingale is first
And Ive trusted it
Oh, sweet how I love you
We should live together
Pranvera filloi me ardh Spring started to come
Shkodra In Your Pocket would
like to thank Zef Coba for his
cooperation for this article.
SHKODRA CITY SONGS
Photo removed to make this download version
of Shkodra In Your Pocket lighter;
refer to a print version, available locall y, for all photos.
14
Shkodra In Your Pocket
15
2006 - 2007
SHKODRA POETRY SHKODRA POETRY
Girl reading in the park
As the centre of Albanian cultural life, Shkodra has at-
tracted and inspired many writers and poets. The most
famous local poet was Migjeni, although others include
Filip Shiroka and Gjerg Fishta, all of whom are featured
here with some poems. Wed like to thank Robert Elsie
(www.albanianliterature.net) for the biographies and
translations.
Migjeni, a name derived from
the first letters of each word of
Millosh Gjergj Nikolla, lived his
short life from 1911 to 1938
and never managed to publish
a book, but his work still kick-
started contemporary Albanian
poetry. He was born as Milos
Doka Nikolic in Shkodra to a
Serb family, and at 14 went to
study Russian, French Greek
and Latin at St. Johns Orthodox
Seminary in Bitola, then King-
dom of Serbia, now in Mace-
donia. On his return to Shkodra
he gave up on becoming a priest and became a teacher in
Vraka, a Serb village north of town, where he started writing
poems and prose in Albanian. In 1936 his book containing
36 poems called Vargjet e Lira (Free Verse) was banned
(it was reprinted in 1944 with two inappropriate poems
deleted and eight new ones added). In 1935, Migjeni fell ill
with tuberculosis, and after visiting sanatoriums in Greece
and Italy and a spell as a teacher in the mountain town on
Puka, he died in an Italian hospital at the age of 26.
His work consists of just 24 short prose sketches and 44
poems. Whereas most poets from the regions stuck to
describing the beauties of the Albanian mountains and the
sacred traditions of the nation, Migjeni focused on misery
and suffering: I suffer with the child whose father cannot
buy him a toy. I suffer with the young man who burns with
unslaked sexual desire. I suffer with the middle-aged man
drowning in the apathy of life. I suffer with the old man
who trembles at the prospect of death. I suffer with the
peasant struggling with the soil. I suffer with the worker
crushed by iron. I suffer with the sick suffering from all the
diseases of the world... I suffer with man.
Migjenis poems were successful in literary circles even
though he never published a book; ironically when his book
finally did appear, it was in the same year that Stalinism
was decided to be the best way forward in Albania.
Migjeni
Blasphemy
The mosques and churches float through our memories,
Prayers devoid of sense or taste echo from their walls.
Never has the heart of god been touched by them,
And yet it beats on amidst the sounds of drums and bells.
Majestic mosques and churches throughout our wretched land,
Spires and minarets towering over lowly homes,
The voice of the hodja and priest in one degenerate chant,
Oh, ideal vision, a thousand years old!
The mosques and churches float through memories of
the pious,
The chiming of the bell mingles with the muezzins call,
Sanctity shines from cowls and from the beards of hodjas.
Oh, so many fair angels at the gates of hell!
On ancient citadels perch carrion ravens,
Their dejected wings drooping - the symbols of lost hopes,
In despair do they croak of an age gone by
When the ancient citadels once gleamed with hallowed joy.
Song of noble grief
Oh, noble grief of the suffering soul
That into free verse bursts out...
Would you perchance take comfort
In adorning the world with jewels?
Oh, noble grief in free verse,
Which sincerely sounds and resounds,
Will you ever move the feelings of men,
Or wither and die like the autumn leaves?
Oh, song worthy of noble grief...
Never rest! But with your twin,
Lamentation, sing out your suffering,
For time will be your consolation.
Resignation
In tears have we found consolation...
Our heritage in life has been
Misery... for this whole world
Is but a grave in the universal womb,
Where human reptiles are condemned to creep,
Their will crushed in the grip of a giant.
- An eye adorned in purest tears of profound pain
Shines from the far side of hell,
And at times, the reflection of a fleeting thought
Flashes round the globe
To give vent to awesome wrath.
But the head hangs, the sorrowful eyelids droop
And through the lashes wells a crystal tear,
Rolls down the cheek and splashes on the earth,
And in every splash of a teardrop a man is born
To take to the road of his own destiny.
In the hope of the smallest victory, he roams from land to land,
Over roads covered with brambles, among which he passes
Graves washed in tears and crazy folk who snigger.
Filip Shiroka (1859-1935) was born and raised in Shko-
dra, but spent much of his life in exile after the defeat
of the League of Prizren in 1880, working as a railway
engineer in Egypt and Lebanon.
He wrote more than sixty mostly romantic poems, three
short stories, articles and several religious translations
before he died in Beirut.
Filip Shiroka
Be off, swallow
Farewell, for spring has come,
Be off, swallow, on your flight,
From Egypt to other lands,
Searching over hill and plain
Be off to Albania on your flight,
Off to Shkodra, my native town!
Convey my greetings
To the old house where I was born,
And greet the lands around it
Where I spent my early years;
Be off thither on your flight,
And greet my native town!
...
And when you come to Fush e Rmajit,
Swallow, stop there and take your rest;
In that land of sorrow are the graves
Of the mother and father who raised me;
Weep in your exquisite voice
And lament them with your song!
For ages I have not been to Albania
To attend those graves;
You, swallow, robed in black,
Weep there on my behalf,
With that exquisite voice of yours
Lament them with your song!
Under the banners of melanchol y
The banners
Of a mournful melancholy
Wave
Throughout our land...
Nor can it be said
That here live a people
Who are building
Something new.
Here and there in the shadow
Of the banners
An effort can be seen,
A gigantic struggle
To triumph over death,
To give birth to something great,
To bring a jinni to light!
But (oh, irony of fate)
From all that labour
Only a mouse is born.
And thus this comedy
Bursts our vein of humour,
And we ourselves
Burst into rage.
Over the threshold of each house
That contains a sign of life
Mournful melancholy
Unfolds its banner.
This Franciscan pater was the greatest and most
influential figure of Albanian literature in the first hal f
of the twentieth century, his work more than anyone
elses the voice of the newly sovereign Albanian nation.
Fishta (1871-1940) was born near Torshan in Northern
Albania and studied languages, theology and philosophy
in Bosnia to prepare for life as a priest. He headed the
Franciscan schools in Shkodra, changing the language
of instruction from Italian to Albanian and helping defin-
ing the Albanian alphabet. He became a prolific writer
(his masterpiece being the 15,613-line epic verse The
highland lute) and experienced politician, greatly helping
the Albanian cause in international politics. Between
1944 and 1989, he was branded a clerical and fascist
poet and his works were taboo. Below we publish part
of The highland lute.
Gjergj Fushta
The highland lute
Once the shkja advance was broken
Did the Albanians hold assembly,
Sent stern message to the sultan
That theyd pay no tithes and taxes
Neither to that Prince Nikolla
Nor to Stamboul, to the sultan
Theyd no longer show submission,
They now wanted independence,
For Albania was not fashioned,
Made by God for the Circassians,
Nor for Turks, their Moors and Asians,
But for mountain hawks, those heroes
Whom the world calls the Albanians,
That they keep it for their children
For as long as life continues.
When the Turk had read the message
He was filled with rage and anger.
How he set upon the land to
Eat them up alive, those tribesmen.
But the Albanians were resolved
Hed not devour or invade them.
They had come to a decision,
For their land theyd muster courage,
If attacked by king or sultan.
Thus the Turk and the Albanian
Seized each others throats and strangled,
Smashed each others skulls to pieces,
Crushed them like so many pumpkins!
Fire broke out then in the Balkans.
The shkja, in anguish that Albania,
Freed now of the sultans power,
Might not fall into his clutches
As he had foreseen the matter,
Set upon the Turk like lightning,
Like the wild boar with the jackal.
They did haggle and did grapple,
Scuffled, wrestled, bit and murdered,
Rifles volleyed, cannons battered,
Blood in torrents swashed the clearings,
Over fields and through the thickets,
Til at last, midst din and clamour,
Of the Turkish yoke released,
As shed wanted, was Albania,
Free at last, as God had promised,
But no, brothers, do believe me,
Not as Turk or shkja would have it.
16
WHERE TO STAY
Shkodra In Your Pocket
17
WHERE TO STAY
2006 - 2007
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled
R Dataport L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant C Swimming pool
h Stars
Symbol key
Shkodras hotel scene is little varied, with a few good
options priced between 4000-8000 lek (30-60 euros) and
the rest merely offering merely adequate rooms at about
1200 lek (10 euros). Despite the stable lek, hotel prices
are often stated in euros - you usually can pay with both
lek or euros. The exchange rate was 123 lek for one euro
at time of writing.
If youre here in summer, check that the hotel has its own
(working) generator if you want a room with air condition-
ing; in winter check there is sufficient heating. Budget
travellers will be pleased to hear that some of the cheaper
hotels charge the same price for single and double rooms.
Prices listed here include breakfast unless otherwise
specified.
Camping enthusiasts can pitch their tents along the beach
next to the Panorama restaurant in Zogaj (see Where to
Eat), a 25 minute drive west along the lake.
Upmarket
Three decent hotels.
Colosseo D-2, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel./fax 475 13, tel.
475 14, info@colosseohotel.com, www.colosseohotel.
com. Shkodras preferred hotel, witness the guest book with
scribbles from ambassadors and other bigwigs. The reasonably
comfy three-star rooms behind the half-circle facade overlook
the central square and the mosque. Some rooms have balco-
nies. The staff is friendly and speaks English and Italian, the
plumbing works well, theres a good restaurant and bar, the
breakfast room is the place to meet anyone doing anything in
town, and when the citys electricity is switched off at 08:00
every morning you hardly notice the transition to generator
power. Note that the double glazing is no match for the loud-
speakers of the mosque just across the road, so bring earplugs
to avoid having to pray for an early power cut at 04:45. The
Colosseo is currently being expanded. Q14 rooms (singles
N50, doubles N60, suites N60 - 70). HK hhh
Kolping F-2, Rr. Skenderbeg, tel./fax 454 92, tel.
069 211 82 64, kolpingshkoder@yahoo.it. A large
house set back from the road just north of the Cathedral
wi th neat small rooms and qui te a nice view east over
the mountains. The parking lot at the back doubles as a
basketball court. Not too central, but certainl y good value
for money. The more expensi ve rooms have air-condi tion-
ing. I talian breakfast is included. Q (singles N15 - 18,
doubles N40 - 50). KL
Mondial D-2, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel./fax 401 94, tel. 068
229 22 38, hotelrestorantmondialshkoder@hotmail.
com. The Colosseo may get all the foreign attention, but the
Mondial, just a few metres from the central square, actuall y
has better rooms; clean, quiet and compact, with balconies
and modern furnishings. The rooms at the front overlook the
leafy restaurant terrace which is not too loud, though light
sleepers may want to ask for a room at the back. A pleasant
rooftop terrace is reserved for hotel guests. The suites are
the best rooms in town; very nice indeed and well worth the
extra leks. Q14 rooms (singles N50, doubles N60, 3 suites
N70 - 110). HK hhh
Budget
Cheap but still good.
Ideal E-1, Rr. Daniel Matila, tel. 069 235 37 88. A
pri vate pension above a small caf. The rooms are comfy
enough and clean, but so small that you need to si t on
the toilet in order to have a shower which undoubtedl y
sol ves all kinds of problems in one go. Just north of Rr. 13
Dhjetori.Q(singles 2500 lek., doubles 2500 lek.) Breakfast
not included.
Kaduku C-2, Sheshi 5 Heronjte, tel. 422 16/069 255
12 30. Marked wi th just the word hotel on the facade,
the Kaduku, found ri ght behind the Rozafa, does exactl y
what i t says on the tin, offering simpl e, cl ean rooms at
budget pri ces. Cheaper rooms have shared bathrooms
al ong the corridors. A small rooftop terrace is a good
place to star t and end the day, wi th vi ews over a small
park, the bird ki osk and Sheshi 5 Heronj te, but i ts set
back enough from the square to escape the noise and
dust.Q(singl es 500 - 1000 l ek., doubl es 1400 - 2000
l ek., tripl es 1200 - 3000 l ek.).
This guide uses the star system as defined by the Alba-
nian Department of Tourism, in which stars are awarded
for amenities offered, and dont necessary reflect the
standard of service provided. Some hotels choose no to
take part, others choose to awards themselves stars.
***Star spangled banter***
Rozafa D-2, Rr. Vasil Shanto, tel./fax 43 590, rozafa-
hotel@yahoo.com. In the legend, Rozafa gets bricked up
inside the castle walls so that the castle may stand one
might hope that a similar sacri fice was not demanded for
the construction of this classic 1973 commie ci ty centre
hotel, a chunk of concrete that was once undoubtedl y the
pride and focal point of the city. The surprised staff, once you
track them down in the lobby, is charming and friendl y but
they cant help i t that the rooms are small, worn and musty
- some wi th en sui te bathrooms and breakfast included,
others just wi th shared facili ties along the corridor. On the
plus side, the location is great and the prices are as low as
they can go. Shkodras tourist information centre is in the
lobby. One day a hotel chain like Mercure will snap Rozafa
up; until then we wai t. Q(singles 700 - 2000 lek., doubles
1000 - 3000 lek.). HKL
Dirt cheap
Parku E-1, Rr. Vaso Kadia, tel. 496 83. This is as close
to a Indian backpacker hotel as i t gets (wi thout cheeky
monkeys climbing in to steal your food). Expect small
rooms wi th concrete floors and just a bed inside, shared
showers and crouch toilets. I ts all pretty clean though and
certainl y better that sleeping in the parku outside. Find i t
signposted down an alley north of the Orthodox Church.
Q(singles 600 lek., doubles 1000 lek., triples 1200 lek.,
dorm beds 300 lek.).
Private rooms
Hapa te Lehte E/F-2, Rr. Branko Kadia 57, tel. 440
22, qendragruashk@yahoo.com. The womens centre near
the Cathedral has some clean, comfy guest rooms available
for rent by members of either sex. The centre is set up to
offer local women a place to meet, work and learn skills to
get ahead in Albanias patriarchal society and staying here
helps their purpose. Contact the Hapa te Lehte caf in the
the pink building with the yellow awning near the corner with
Rr. Skenderbeg.QRooms 1600-1900 lek.
Outskirt options
Amerika G-5, Rr. e Pazarit te vjeter, near the bridge. A
simple roadside hotel next to the bridge across the Buna and op-
posite the Favorit. Expect small rooms, a leafy garden and traffic
noise. Q5 rooms (singles 1000 lek., doubles 2000 lek.). L
Argent H-4, Rr. Alqi Kondi, tel. 439 09/069 205 20 65.
In the southern part of town, along the main road towards
the centre, Argent offers small, adequate budget rooms that
are just far enough from the busy street to be quiet. Al though
the hotel is within walking distance of the centre, its not in
the best-looking of areas and badl y lit at night. Q34 rooms
(singles 1500 lek., doubles 3000 lek.). KL
Arlind G-6, Rr. e Pazarit te vjeter, tel. 069 257 89 44.
The first hotel you see when entering Shkodra from the
south is not reall y well-placed for anything except a quick
escape to Tirana or across the border to Montenegro. The
forlorn concrete building at the foot of the castle hill has an
echoing lobby and small, clean-ish rooms, some overlooking
the castle. Surprisingl y, English is spoken. A last resort. Q6
rooms (singles 1000 lek., doubles 1000 lek.).
Brindi K-4, Rr. Stacioni e Trenit, tel. 069 262 02 39. A
friendly hotel near the train station on the dusty road towards
the centre, run by an Albanian who spent years working in the
Netherlands. Brindi has small, decent rooms, some with bal-
conies, a large ground floor bar and restaurant and courtyard
parking. A bit of a slog to the city centre. Q (doubles 2000
lek.) Breakfast not included. L
California G-5, Rr. e Pazarit te vjeter, tel. 069 249 06 17. A
simple roadside hotel between the bridge across the Buna and the
furgon bus station useful for a late arrival or an early departure,
but not much else. Rooms are clean enough, but suffer from the
traffic noise outside. Q (singles 1200 lek., doubles 1200 lek.).
Favorit G-5, Rr. e Pazarit te vjeter, near the bridge, tel.
069 268 56 19. A rather optimistically named roadside hotel,
right next to the bridge across the Buna river. Rooms are a tad
musty but clean enough, and some have air-conditioning, when
the electricity works. Unusually for Albania, theres a naughty
soft-focus photo in the hall as an extra bonus. But the best thing
about Favorit is sitting and watching the poor policeman on the
bridge trying to order the traffic across the single-lane bridge.
Q6 rooms (singles 3000 lek., doubles 3000 lek.). KL
Out of town
Marku G-5, Shkodra-Shiroke road, tel. 417 71/068 204
96 90. If you have your own transport or dont mind taxis, try
the Marku, set on the other side of the Buna river in a shady
bit of forest overlooking the lake and Shkodra. Its best known
with the locals for its views and garden restaurant, with tables
spread out beneath the trees, and a huge concrete scale
model of Rozafa Castle. The rooms are comfy and quiet (the
terrace closes at 23:00). French and English spoken. Cross
the bridge, turn right and left after 200m following signs for
Marku up the signposted road. Q4 rooms (singles 2500
lek., doubles 3500 lek.) Breakfast not included.
Under construction at time of writing, a historic building
on Rr. 13 Dhjetori is set to open soon as the Rezidential
hotel. Elsewhere, the owner of the Tradita restaurant on
Rr. Skenderbeg is planning to expand his empire with a
traditional-style hotel behind the main building.
Coming soon
The Rozafa
One of many pretty doors in Shkodra
18
RESTAURANTS
Shkodra In Your Pocket
19
RESTAURANTS
2006 - 2007
P Air conditioning B Outside seating
A Credit cards accepted L Guarded parking
E Occasional live music S Take away
G No smoking
Symbol key
Shkodra lacks the variety of restaurants that worldly
Tirana has to offer, but its not bad at all, with some very
good options for local and international food. A nice twist
to the Shkodran menu is the Malazeze cuisine if you
spot that on the menu, dont expect to find Malaysian
items like chicken sat; Malezi is the Albanian word for
black mountains, and the former refers to dishes from the
mountain regions to the north of town and in Montenegro
which usually consist of grilled meat and fish. Restaurant
prices are pretty similar everywhere, from 150-600 lek
for a main dish and 100 lek for a drink count on paying
around 1000 lek per person for a good dinner. If you have
the time, try visiting one of the lakeside restaurant in
Shiroke, just west of Shkodra, for the best fish dishes.
Albanian
Tradita G&T E-3/4, Rr. Skenderbeg, tel. 068 208 60
56, tradita_gt@yahoo.com. Set in a 17th century stone
house, this tourist favourite is part museum, part restaurant.
The owner of Tradi ta G&T (G&T standing for Gheg & Tosk,
the two Albanian peoples) is an avid collector of tradi tional
costumes, and i f hes around ask to be shown some pieces
from his priceless collection which includes xhubleta; heavy
black wool ceremonial dresses, di fferent for unmarried and
married women. On the ground floor various old tools are
exhibi ted, while theres a quiet garden to si t in (wi th one
table buil t on a cart). On the first floor there are wooden
chests, quaint cupboards buil t into the walls and a seating
area looking down at the hearth where food is prepared
on a wood fire. And the food is good local and regional
mountain dishes, Albanian tave (oven) speciali ties, cheeses,
and plenty of fish options, all washed down wi th potent raki.
Unfortunatel y the lighting is so bad that i ts hard to see what
youre eating, and unless Madonna is a Gheg or a Tosk, the
music and occasional karaoke hardl y fi ts the surroundings.
Find Tradi ta 100m south of the crossing wi th Rr. Marin
Barleti. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. BE
International
Most restaurants in Albania fall in this category, serving a
mix of pizza, pasta, grilled meat and fish dishes.
Cocja (Vila Bektashi) D/E-1, Rr. Vaso Kadia,
tel. 407 99/069 286 74 45. The best-l ooking buil d-
i ng i n town (by far) appropri atel y houses one of the
best restaurants. Al so known as the Vi l a Bektashi ,
thi s recentl y renovated and ni cel y l i t vi l l a restaurant
i s so ci vi l i sed that i t has a bi cycl e rack. Theres a
pl easant downstai rs bar and l eaf y garden terrace
where the wal l s have been constructed i n tradi ti onal
Shkodra st yl e, using rounded rocks from the ri verbed.
Upstairs, the dazzl ingl y whi te dining area provi des ac-
cess to more outsi de seati ng. The wai ters are used
to forei gners here and promptl y whi p out the Engl i sh-
l anguage menu, whi ch l i sts I tal i an pasta di shes, fi sh
( fresh from the l ake or sea) and wi nes from I tal y,
Greece and France. We were ver y di sappoi nted that
al l the Al bani an speci al i ti es on the menu must be
ordered a day i n advance - a mi ssed oppor tuni t y for
most forei gn vi si tors. Not to be confused wi th a pl ai n
restaurant cal l ed Cocj a on Rr. 16 Nentori . QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. B
Country Club E-1, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 068 219 78
81/068 214 07 89. The only proper restaurant in the histori-
cal stretch of old buildings on Rruga 13 Dhjetori, the Country
Club has that obligatory wooden barn look and serves simple
but delicious grill dishes; try the lamb grill with pita bread and a
fresh salad, for instance. No outside seating. Q Open 07:00
- 14:00, 16:00 - 22:00.
Hapa te Lehte E/F-2, Rr. Branko Kadia 57, tel.
440 22, qendragruashk@yahoo.com. Set up as a
place where l ocal women can meet, get some working
experience, empower themsel ves wi th computer skills, or
simpl y l et their children play safel y in the cour tyard, Hapa
te Lehte (li ght footsteps) runs an pl easantl y decorated
caf thats open to all, even men. Snacks on byrek and
pi zza or sampl e the excell ent I talian dishes wi th home-
made pasta. In the the pink buil ding near the corner
wi th Rr. Skenderbeg, opposi te the Cathedral. QOpen
07:30 - 20:00. Cl osed Sun.
Caf cul ture is very prominent in Al bania, and
the l ocals j ust l ove si tting on a terrace, watching
peopl e stroll by and sipping cof fee wi th fri ends, all
day l ong i f need be. Shkodra is no exception, and
especiall y al ong the southern hal f of Rruga 13 Dh-
j etori youll find dozens of pretty similar cafs si t-
ting si de by si de, mostl y populated wi th groups of
young mal es. Weve revi ewed the most popular and
femal e-fri endl y ones here. Unfortunatel y, Shkodras
classi c landmark cafe, the ol d Kafja e Madhe or
Grand Caf, is cl osed due to l egal wrangling over
the ownership.
Era C-2, Sheshi 2 Prilli. Overlooking the city park, Era
(literall y wind) is sitated at the beginning of the xhiro
evening walk route and is a good place to kick off your
evening. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00.
Millennium D/E-2, Rr. Marin Barleti, tel. 49 16. A
popular caf in front of the classical faade of Shkodras
cinema building. Comfortable seats beneath parasols,
quick service and a view over busy Rruga Marin Barleti.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
Vllaznia C/D-3, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 069 278 45 23.
Locals love their football team, and this eponymous fan
bar overlooking a corner of the city park is the place to
cheer the team on should they make it as far as they did
in last years national competition (finalists). Apart from
that and the pleasant shaded terrace seating, the bar is
pretty unremarkable. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00.
Cafs
Mondial D-2, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel./fax 401 94. One of
central Shkodras most pleasant terrace restaurants. A large
shaded seating area and a tastefull y decorated dining room
inside is where you can sample Albanian and Italian food while
watching the evening xhiro roll by. Not as showy as nearby
Piazza Park. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00.
Muzeu D-1/2, Sheshi 5 Heronjte, tel. 069 226 42 49. Occupy-
ing the historical building with the stone English tower attached to it,
the Muzeu restaurant is a disappointment. The pizza may be good
and the terrace seating pleasant, the staff couldnt be less surly,
and the main first-floor room of the house with a traditional carved
wooden ceiling always seems to be locked up. A missed opportunity
if there ever was one. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. B
Palma E-1, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 408 64. Popular with the
young ones and certainly attractive from a distance, the shaded
garden around this villa set back from the main street becomes
less enticing when you realise how loud they like to play dodgy
pop music. The food is pretty standard Italian and Albanian fare
with a few Malazeze (Montenegrin) grilled meat and fish options
- best head here for a quick drink, get ogled at by groups of lads,
and head back out. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.
This should help you figure out what just slipped down
your throat.
Meat & Fish
beef biftek
chicken pul
lamb mish qengji
pork derr
sausage sallam
veal mish vii
bass levrek
codfish merluc
fish peshk
prawns karkaleca deti
salmon salmon
sea food fruta deti
sole gjuhs
trout troft
Fruits & Vegetables
apple moll
banana banane
cabbage lakr
carrot karrota
eggplant patllxhane
mushrooms krpudha
orange portokalle
peppers speca
tomatoes domate
Drinks
beer birr
juice leng
wine ver
water uj
Common dishes
Byrek pie with cheese, meat or herbs
Patate t skuqura french fries
Tav kosi baked lamb, yogurt and eggs
Frges fried minced lamb or liver,
feta cheese and garlic
Speca t mbushur stuffed peppers,
feta cheese, herbs
Menu decoder
Welcome! Mirseerdht!
What do you recommend? far rekomandoni?
I would like... do t preferoja...
May I have a... a mund t kem nj...
... spoon lug
... fork pirun
... knife thik
...please? ...ju lutem?
The bill please Faturn ju lutem
Thank you Faleminderit
Table talk
May I have a... A mund t kem nj...
espresso kafe ekspres
turkish coffee kafe turke
filter coffee filter
tea caj
sugar sheqer
spoon luge
cigarettes cigare
matches shkrepse
ashtray tavell
Caf talk
Vivaldi F-3, Rr. Justin Godard 18, tel. 420 52. What
a discovery a small, family run restaurant serving excel-
lent fresh fish (from the lake or mountain trout), Albanian
grill dishes and pizza from the wood oven. A new terrace
around an old well behind the house provides seating in
warm weather. But theres more; Alfred, who came back to
Shkodra after working 15 years as an engineer in Canada,
set the restaurant up as a social club and theres live
music every Friday and Saturday. You can expect a mix of
jazz, Italian canzonettas, and especiall y Shkodras local
speciality: citizen music. Book ahead on weekends. Find
Vivaldi 100m down the small street next to the Cathedral.
Q Open 07:00-15:00, 17:00-24:00. BE
Vivaldi
The Lead Mosque
20
Shkodra In Your Pocket
RESTAURANTS
21
RESTAURANTS
2006 - 2007
One of the best things about urban Albanian life is the
nightly xhiro, the ritual evening walk through the centre
of town, also known as giro in Italian and corso in Span-
ish. Its the time of day when all the work is done (or
postponed), when the temperatures drop to pleasant
levels and when literally hundreds of people stroll up
and down the main streets of town, meeting friends,
watching their children play in the park, drinking coffee at
the bars and exchanging gossip along the way. In a way,
this is an ancient version of the internet, with the xhiro
surfers rapidly and efficiently exchanging information as
they talk to everyone they know, and with viruses such
as bad gossip spread even faster here than in the real
internet. In some cities such as Tirana, traffic and building
projects have made the xhiro nearly impossible, forcing
it along the pavements and across busy roads. But in
other towns (notably Vlora is famous in this respect) the
xhiro is a respected institution, and streets are shut off
for traffic to allow pedestrians to reclaim the city centre.
In Shkodra too, the atmosphere of the xhiro is quite
special, with people wandering between the city park at
the southern end of a traffic-free Rruga 13 Dhjetori, past
the Mondial and Piazza Park terraces and the Colosseo
hotel to the northern end of the street. Youll see that
the first few hours attract many families, but that after
19:00 the girls and women somehow disappear leav-
ing just the men chatting and sipping coffee until the
xhiro winds down around 20:00 or 21:00. After 22:00
Shkodras city centre is deserted again.
Do the xhiro
Piazza Park D-2, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 490 90. A loud,
brash terrace restaurant decked out wi th fountains, lush
plants and a small playground for children. Popular with fami-
lies and young Shkodrans, its a non-threatening place good
for people-watching at the halfway point of the xhiro mass
evening stroll. Food on offer includes decent pizzas and other
Italian dishes, and the restaurant delivers home too. QOpen
08:00 - 01:00. B
Castle dining
Rozafa Castle restaurant G-6, Rozafa Citadel. Occupying
the upper fortress catacombs, the caf and restaurant in Shko-
dras hilltop citadel is an atmospheric place for a drink or meal, and
the main goal for most local visitors who make the trip here. The
first and main room is a long stone cellar space. A smaller second
room is nicely decorated with carpets and low seating on pillows,
with cute white woollen slippers to wear instead of shoes and in
the corner a rather scary redhead doll decked out in a traditional
costume complete with Ottoman-era coins. A doorway leads to a
terrace area outside the massive walls, with fantastic views to the
west across the floodplains. Waiters dress in traditional garb too,
complete with eggshell hats, and a karaoke system is set to play
Albanian pop. Food on offer includes all the usual suspects: fresh
sea and lake fish, grilled meat. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Lakeside dining
Marku G-5, Shkodra-Shiroke road, tel. 417 71/068
204 96 90. A short taxi ride from the centre, the Marku can
be found across the bridge, and 200m to the right up on the
hillside, overlooking the lake. The tables are set wide apart
beneath the pine trees, offering privacy and fresh air for diners
digging into the Albanian and Italian food. If youre too lazy
or hungry to visit the real thing, Marku has an impressive
concrete scale model of Rozafa Castle plonked in the garden
as well. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. B
Panorama Zogaj, tel. 068 294 10 50. Just before you reach
Zogaj, a road leads steeply down to this restaurant that is located
in a tiny bay with a small arc of beach one of the few along the
lake shore. The Panorama restaurant is specialised in fish, of
course, as proved by the small pool with the catch of the day
right next to the building you can simply point at the eel or carp
of your choice. Sea fish can also be prepared, though its best to
book in that case. If youre in a group and call ahead, the owner
can have someone pick you up in Shkodra. Ideal for a quick swim
followed by a good meal. Outdoorsy types are welcome to pitch
a tent in one of the spots behind the terrace though keep in
mind the music played all day can get on your nerves. French
and Italian spoken. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Taverna Shkodrane Shiroke-Zogaj road, tel. 069 225
96 46/069 218 51 24. Right on the lakeside below the road
from Shiroke to Zogaj, this famous restaurant is well worth the
20-minute drive from Shkodra. Not onl y does the restaurant
have pleasant indoor and terrace seating overlooking the
placid waters of the lake, the affable owner is famous for the
fresh fish meals served here, be it from the lake, trout from the
mountain streams or fish from the sea. The best reason of all
to visit, however, is the live music that is played every Sunday
from 12:00. This is one of the few places to hear Shkodras
famed citizen songs live. Even when theres no live band, you
can expect a (rare) civilised choice of music on the stereo. Be
sure to book a table in advance. Italian spoken.
So you think the service is bad? In a country that had
no hospitality industry until a few years ago perhaps it
comes as no surprise that some waiters think that they
are there to wait, rather than act. They can be infuriatingly
lax, leaving you waiting for a spoon, the salt or the bill
for way too long. On the other hand, sometimes its the
opposite when waiters with silly bow ties scrape their
heels and nervously anticipate your approval while they
crack open a can of Coke - perhaps a little too formal
for the circumstances. Still, with many Albanians abroad
getting first-hand experience in the catering world, well
soon have relaxed and efficient service popping up in
the better bars and restaurants. Let us know i f you
spot any.
Waiting waiters
Outside Tirana, nightlife in Albania is limited to a few
dodgy discos and seasonal party venues along the coast.
In Shkodra, everything goes very quiet after the xhiro
ends around 22:00, with just a few venues offering late
night entertainment.
Enigma D/E-1, tel. 069 293 11 34. Shkodras onl y
true bar, Enigma is set in an attractive split-level space
next to the Colosseo hotel. The bar does some good
cocktails and other drinks at amiable prices, and is a
great place to meet the friendl y locals. On busy nights
when everyones in the right mood there may even be
some dancing here. Once the construction work on the
hotel is done, Enigmas large terrace will again become
one of the best places to watch the xhiro walk by. QOpen
06:00 - 22:00. B
Extasy Club E-1, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 069 263
48 87. Set on the first floor of a building near the
northern end of the street, this bar is where students
come for a coffee and a smoke in a relaxed atmo-
sphere. The technicolour walls are hung wi th modern
art, and seating is on low chairs spread around the
room. Al though nobody got ecstatic when we visi ted,
i ts a pleasant place to meet open-minded students.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:30.
Jadore B-3, Sheshi 2 Prilli, tel. 069 221 66 66. A
vibrant bar and club next to the Economic Facul ty of
the University of Shkodra, that understandabl y mostl y
packs in students, playing Albpop and international hits.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.
Orient (Banje e vogel) B-4, Rr. Esat Gjyli, tel. 069
240 76 49. Despite the Western trend of opening up
wellness centres everywhere, all over the Balkans the
characteristic old hamams, or bath houses, have been
transformed into galleries, shops or simply locked up and
forgotten. Shkodras old small hamam (Banje e vogel) has
been painted red inside and is now a bar and party venue.
The squat building with its impressive central space is
decked out in oriental style, with seating on cushions
and Ottomans, and more intimate small areas in the
corner rooms. There are parties a few times a month,
attracting a crowd of students. Walk 300m south from
the city park along Rruga Vasil Shanto and take the first
left. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Nightlife
Around town
For a special night out, Albanians dont head to the city
centre, but hop into a car and drive out to one of the many
family restaurants around town, which have large terraces,
good views and guarded parking, and are the venues for
many family parties and weddings. Most of them serve
Albanian, Italian and fish specialities. The best dining
tactic is to ask for small samples of lots of different dishes
the waiters will be able to advise whats fresh and whats
good. Dont forget to tip the guard if your car is still there
when you leave. Other similar restaurants near Shkodra
include the Monte and Buna 1 restaurants on the other
bank of the Buna river, in the direction of Muriqan.
Legjenda G-6, Rr. te Pazarit e vjeter, tel. 489 36/068
207 39 33. Along the main road to Tirana below the castle, a
long shaded path leads to a lush hidden garden next to a large
restaurant that is very popular with the locals. The food here
includes the usual Albanian, Italian and international options,
and theres occasional live music to entertain diners. Although
Legjenda is close to the Buna river, the garden is closed off, so
dont expect much in the way of views. Reservations recom-
mended on weekends. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. BL
Shqiponja G-6, Rr. e Qafes, tel. 416 25. At the foot of the
castle hill on the northern banks of the Drini river, the large
Eagle restaurant has ample terrace space overlooking the
peaceful river as it flows towards the bridge. The restaurant
is near the original site of Shkodra, before the inhabitants
decamped to the other side of the hill after increasingl y
annoying floods, and you can have a look at the preserved
Lead Mosque, just down the road, before dining here. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. B
www.inyourpocket.com
Eating at Cocja
22
WHAT TO SEE
Shkodra In Your Pocket
23
WHAT TO SEE
2006 - 2007
Historical Museum C-
1, Rr. Oso Kuka, tel. 224
32 13, mcungu@albnet.
net. For a glimpse of old
Shkodra, visit the wonderful
Ottoman-era building hous-
ing the Historical Museum,
one of about 15 left in Shko-
dra. The museum is in fact
not much more than the
building itself the massive
family house of Osa Kuka,
a wealthy middle-class merchant. Like other such houses
across the Balkan region, it was a self-contained entity
surrounded by massive 7-metre-high wall and with strictly
separated areas for the men to conduct business, and for
the women to work, cook and take care of the family. Up to
20 people would inhabit the house; the patriarch, his sons
and their wives and children. At that time, families would
dabble in all kinds of trade; they would have some land and
livestock, specialise in some craft, do trading and adminis-
tration jobs. Shkodra in its heyday was a prime merchants
city, positioned along the ancient trade route between the
Mediterranean sea and Kosovo in the interior, with 2500
shops in the bazaar and 80 types of crafts represented. The
famous Wednesday regional markets attracted traders from
across the region.This house was constructed in 1815, and
has been restored to its old state. Its very typical of Otto-
man houses of the 17th-19th centuries. The grand first-floor
balcony was where family celebrations were held and where
the women would colour fabrics or spread out silkworm
cocoons and wool to make threads. A small unconnected
room here was for conducting private negotiations. Inside,
the grand rooms with decorated wooden ceilings were for
receiving guests in style; seated in strict hierarchical order
on cushions around a low table, the men would talk while the
women were only able to follow the discussions from behind
the small holes above the doorway. Only the youngest girls
would be allowed to approach the room to pass trays of food
and drinks; older daughters were kept well out of sight. One
room has an unusual fireplace with a small window behind
it this was to check that the fire was burning continuously,
as a house with no fire was cursed. In the garden lies a
Roman tomb and a Venetian stone well (decorated with St.
Marks lion), while the basement of the house holds a small
archaeology exhibition, with
the early Christian Plate of
David, artefacts from the
Greek and Roman periods
and a quirky 4th century BC
clay fertility figure. QOpen
09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Admission 100 lek.
Historical Museum
Places of interest
Bazaar C-1/2, Rr. Oso Kuka. Once, Shkodras famous
bazaar was lcoated beneath the castle, directly along the Buna
river where the ships from the sea and Montenegro could dock.
Nothing remains from the hundreds of Ottoman-era shops and
inns due to flooding and ruthless demolition during the Com-
munist period. Catch a little of the Balkan bazaar atmosphere
in the streets west of Sheshi 5 Heronjte, where people sell all
kinds of things on the street, from clothing and mobile phones
to car parts, flags and plastic flowers. Note the large tree at
the crossing of Rruga Oso Kuka and Rr. Leke Dukagjini; its a
famous local landmark (meet you at the tree!) and now lends
its branches and trunk to display clocks and birdcages.
English Tower D-1/2, Sheshi 5 Heronjte. Shkodras
most peculiar sight is the small stone clock tower near the
Al-Zamil Mosque. Built in 1868, its part of the house that once
belonged to Lord Padget, an English protestant evangelical
missionary, known for paying the locals to attend his church.
The first floor of the house is a sight in itself, with carved
wooden ceilings and Gothic-style windows. After his death the
house was sold and eventually became a fire watchtower (this
was in the days when the tower was higher than most other
buildings in town). Unfortunatel y, the complex is now a rather
seedy and run-down restaurant, and the upper floor is usually
locked; once restored and put to better use this could be a
great museum or restaurant and a highlight for Shkodra.
Gjuhadol & Sarreq districts E-1/2, F-3, Rr. 13 Dhje-
tori, Rr. Branko Kadia. Shkodras most attractive quarters
can be found in the area between the Colosseo hotel and the
Cathedral. Gjuhadol is the district around Rruga 13 Dhjetori and
Rruga Branko Kadia. Both streets are lined with elegant turn of
the 20th century buildings. Named after the date of the popular
uprising on 13 December 1990 which lead to the vandalism of
many state institutions, the street still bears the scars of revo-
lution - the former state bank is still an empty shell. Especially
along Rruga Branko Kadia you can see some grand former
diplomatic residencies, constructed during the period that the
Great Powers were pondering how to chop up the region in the
aftermath of the Turkish defeat. Sarreq is the area around the
cathedral, with a few fine old houses remaining.
Mosques & Churches
Shkodra has always been a multicultural city, with each
religious or ethnic community playing an important role in
the economy and cultural development of the city. In 1967,
the Communist Party declared Albania to be the worlds first
atheistic state and unleashed a light version of Chinas cultural
revolution, resulting in the senseless destruction of many
religions buildings. After 1990, the four main religions in Albania
(Islam, Orthodoxy, Roman Catholicism and Bektashi faith) get
along very well, and the monuments dotted around Shkodra
attest to this traditional spirit of tolerance and cooperation.
Tourist Information Centre D-2, Sheshi 5 Heronjte
(Hotel Rozafa), tel./fax 3590, promovimi.turistik.
shkoder@yahoo.com. A small pri vatel y-run office ac-
cessed from the Rozafa lobby, with a few brochures, maps,
postcards and the Marubi photo calendar (10) for sale. The
staff can give basic information and help organise trips and
tickets. It may not be much yet, but keep in mind that even
Tirana doesnt have an initiative like this so three cheers for
the Shkodra TIC. Q Open 07:00-15:00, 19:00-20:00.
Tourist information
At first glance, Shkodra seems a low-key city for tourists.
You can aimlessly wander around the historical streets
between the Colosseo hotel and the Cathedral, or visit
the busy shopping streets near the football stadium. But
people in the know can track down interesting sights
such as the hard-to-find Marubi Photo Collection, the
beautiful Ottoman-era house with the Historical Museum
and the quirky old Turkish bathhouse. The top must-see
sight in town, of course, is Rozafa Citadel.
Essential Shkodra
Walking around Shkodras streets youll soon enough
learn that the locals have a deep-seated love for birds
youll see small metal or wooden cages hung from many
balconies with the birds twittering away like theres no
tomorrow. This is a Shkodra speciality not seen in other
Albanian towns, and perhaps the strong tradition of local
songs has contributed to
the locals being able to ad-
mire the birds song more.
Or perhaps they just taste
good. Therefore, if youre
l ooki ng for that special
present to give to a local,
perhaps drop by the Zoo
Shop kiosk between the
Rozafa Hotel and Sheshi 5
Heronjte square, where a
variety of birds and cages
is for sale (open 09:00-
13:30, 15:30-20:00).
Urban twitter
Al-Zamil Mosque D-2, Rr. 13 Dhjetori. Placed on the
si te of an earlier war-damaged predecessor and surrounded
by gardens, the huge Turkish-style Sheik Zamil Abdullah al-
Zamil Mosque was buil t wi th Egyptian and Saudi money in
1995, and forms the focal point of Shkodras proud Muslim
communi ty. Al though i t could do wi th a bi t of fi xing up
here and there, i ts a stunning building, wi th an intricatel y
decorated interior. Visi tors are welcome after prayer times;
the entrance is on the side facing away from the Colosseo
hotel. Note the old partisan war monument in the park
behind the mosque.
Cathedral of the Nativity (Kisha Ortodokse) D-1,
Rr. Vaso Kadia. The brand new Orthodox Cathedral was built
in 2000 on the spot of a temoporary wooden church, and you
can nearl y smell the paint. For a new church, its very beauti-
ful, with a delicate interplay of domes and cupolas inside and
out. A high tower stands separate from the main building in
the courtyard. Time your visit with a Sunday service to hear
beautiful chanting and singing.
Catholic Cathedral (Kisha e Madhe) F-3, Rr. Sk-
enderbeg, www.kishakatolikeshkoder.com. The large
church as it is called in Albanian is just that a church buil t
(very slowl y) between 1856 and 1898; at the time it was the
largest of its kind in the Balkans. After 1967, it was vandalised
and then converted into a sports hall, with concrete stands
on two sides sloping up towards the windows so people
could watch the basketball and volleyball being played. In
1991, the building was restored by Italian specialists, and
inaugurated by Mother Teresa on her visit to Albania. Two
years later, Pope John Paul II visi ted the Cathedral and
consecrated Shkodras new Archbishop, Frano Elia, a man
who was originall y condemned to death 25 years earlier for
his beliefs but ended up being imprisoned for life. A statue
of the late pope can be found inside the left entrance. Just
outside the Cathedral, an elegant Italian-style building now
is the archbishops residence.
Church of Our Lady of Shkodra (Zoja e Bekueme)
G-6, Rr. e Pazarit te vjeter. The first building of note that
you see when entering Shkodra from Tirana is the newl y
restored 17th century Church of Our Lady of Shkodra, which
si ts right below the ci tadel. Curiousl y, the church is famous
for a fresco that isnt there any more. The miracle goes
that locals would pray at the froesco of Our Mother of Good
Counsel during times of trouble, of which there were plenty
in 15th century Shkodra. During the Turkish conquest of
the region in 1467, the painting disappeared, turning up in
Genazzano, near Rome. In all probabili ty the painting is in
fact a 14th century Umbrian fresco, and not the resul t of
an earl y international express deli very. Unfased, Catholic
Albanians adore Mary and this image in parti cular, and
numerous chapels and churches across the region have
been named after i t.
Franciscan church (Kisha e Freteneve) E-2, Rr.
Ndre Mjeda. Walk down the alley next to the Colosseo hotel
to find this large Italian-style church crowned with religious
statues. During the atheist years, the building was turned
into a cul tural centre. Since i t reopened in 1998, visi tors
are welcome to escape the heat and ponder life for a while
in its simple interior.
Lead Mosque (Xhamia e Plumbit) H-6,. Once in the
heart of Shkodras old bazaar area, the Lead Mosque (named
after the material used on the roof) was buil t in 1773 by
Mehmet Pasha Bushati, and was inspired by the great Sul tan
Ahmed mosque in Istanbul. In the 18th and 19th century the
Kiri and Drini rivers changed their course and flooded the old
bazaar so often that the area was abandoned for a safer spot
in Shkodras current location. The Lead Mosque is all that
remains, standing like an Indian palace in a small lake. The
minaret was destroyed by lightning in 1967, the same year as
the cul tural revolution that lead to the pulling down of many
other religious buildings, but the mosques was left in peace
until it was restored recently and the buildings courtyard and
beautiful domes are in reasonable condition. The mosque is
just a short walk down from the Citadel.
Parks
L. Gurakuqi Park D/E-1, Rr. Vaso Kadia. After having
been ignored for years, and with high new buildings at either
end, the small strip of green next to the Orthodox Cathedral
has recently been restored to its pleasant former state, with
paths, benches, grass and flowers.
Lulishtja e Parruces Park C-3, Sheshi Parruce. This
green triangle comes alive in the late afternoon, when the
locals come out to stroll the xhiro, old men play chess on
the park benches and children enjoy the train and merry-go-
round rides. A lovel y place to sit, eat ice-cream and watch
people at play.
www.inyourpocket.com
24
Shkodra In Your Pocket
STATUES & MONUMENTS
The soul of a city can be seen in its monuments.
5 Herontje e Vigut D-1,
Sheshi 5 Heronjte. This
large statue in the middle
of Sheshi 5 Heronj te square
represents the fi ve heroes
of Vig (in the Mirdite region),
who died heroically, fighting
bravel y to the death without
thinking of surrender, for the
cause of the Communi st
Par t y forces on 21 June
1944. Their actions were
commemorated in a 1977 Al-
banian film. The statue was
damaged when someone
tried to blow it up in 1999.
Isa Boletini D-4, Sheshi
i Perashit. The fierce-look-
ing statue of a chap wi th
a bushy moustache and
guns in his bel t represents
Isa Boletin (1864-1916), a
nationalist who spent four
years imprisoned in Istanbul
and then went to fight in the
liberation movement against
the Turks, and later against
Serbia and Montenegro in
order to i ncl ude Kosovo
inside the borders of the new
state of Albania. The Great
Powers decided otherwise, and Boletini was eventuall y killed
in Montenegro during an attempt to capture Podgorica.
Lui g j Gurakuqi D- 2,
Sheshi L. Gurakuqi. An
elegant statue of this gentle-
man stands in a li ttle park
next to the Piazza Park ter-
race. Gurakuqi (1879-1925)
was a writer and activist for
the Albanian cause. After
his studies in Naples where
he started wri ting articles
and poetry he returned to
Albania and played a leading
rol e in the independence
movement and later the
anti-Zogist movement. The
Zogist regime recrui ted his
own cousin to assassinate
him in Bari, Ital y.
Obelisk Heronjte e Demokracise C-2, Sheshi 2
Prilli. The monument consisting of a series of whi te marble
pillars commemorates the brutal killing of four young people
and the wounding of 82 others by police forces on 2 April
1991, two days after the first mul tiparty election in Albania.
The crowd was peacefull y demonstrating against the victory
of the communists in
those elections when
the police opened fire.
The di rector of po-
lice later fled Albania
rather than face court,
onl y to return when
the Soci al i sts were
back in power again
in 1997. Nobody has
been arrested for the
killings yet.
Forgotten heroes
Partizan statue, Al-Zamil mosque park
Photo removed to make this download version
of Shkodra In Your Pocket lighter;
refer to a print version, available locall y, for all photos.
26
Shkodra In Your Pocket
27
2006 - 2007
Shkodras greatest treasure is locked up in a dark, cool room,
on the first floor of a nondescript and unmarked block of
flats along Rr. Clirimi. A few dozen white wooden cupboards
in this room each hold hundreds of small carefully labelled
National Marubi Photo Collection (Fototeka
Kombetare Marubi), D-1, Rr. M. Gjollesha, tel.
434 67, fotomarubi2004@yahoo.it. Open 08:00
16:00, closed Sat, Sun. Admission 100 lek. Contribu-
tions to upkeep the collection are welcome, and beautiful
postcards (100 lek) and calendars (900 lek) with photos
from the collection are for sale from the office. Large
A3-size quality prints of specific images can be ordered;
these cost 2500 lek each and take 1-2 days to prepare.
The unmarked entrance can be found behind the yellow
and white exchange kiosks on Rruga M. Gjollesha, next
to a caf, where theres a gate leading to the courtyard
entrance.
Practicalities
cardboard boxes, and each of those holds a set of thin
glass plates, separated from each other by a thin piece of
paper. Hold any of these glass plates against the light and
you look back in time for these are all original glass photo
negatives with images of a Shkodra that has long gone.
With 250,000 negatives covereing every major event in the
region between 1858 and 1959, this is one of Europes most
valuable collection of photos.
The fascinating story of this collection starts with an inverted
refugee story. Pietro Marubbi (1834-1905) from Piacenza
in northern Italy, fled his homeland for political reasons,
and settled in tolerant, open-minded Shkodra in 1856,
establishing himself as an artist and architect and taking the
name Pjeter Marubi. Two years later he took the first-ever
photograph in Albania, set up the first photo studio of the
country, and made a living making portrait photos of the local
upper class families and the odd revolutionary. In 1885, he
hired an apprentice called Mikel Kodheli (1870-1940), whom
he later adopted, renaming him Kel Marubi. Apart from the
studio work, Kel Marubi proli fically documented city li fe:
UNESCO, the collection is now
protected from deterioration
and properl y guarded, and
is temporarily housed with a
small exhibition space while
plans for a proper museum (in
the former state bank building
on Rr. 13 Dhjetori) are being
devel oped. Another maj or
proj ect is the di gi talisati on
of the col l ecti on some
20,000 photos have now been
painstakingl y scanned. The
manager of the collection, Mrs
Osmani, has been invol ved
with preserving the collection
for decades and has spent so much time identi fying the
topi cs and peopl e on unmarked photos that she can
recognise many long-dead members of Shkodras prominent
families.
The Fototeka currently consists of a hallway hung with about
50 of the most evocative photos from the collection, most
with French, Spanish and Italian captions.
festivals, people at work, street scenes, landscapes with
people, buildings and more. He became active in the Albanian
national resistance and was in a unique position to document
major historical events and personalities. Kels son Gege
Marubi (1907-1984) studi ed i n France at the Lumi ere
Brothers school before working for the family business until
the Communist takeover. Gege Marubi donated the whole
collection to the Albanian state in 1974.
By that time, the family photo collection had grown to an
astounding 150.000 glass negatives. As all Marubis had
meticulously kept notes of topics and dates, and carefully
stored the photo plates, the collection represents a unique
documentation of regional history over a period of nearly
100 years.
The Marubi collection has since been expanded to about
250,000 negatives with the collections of the Pici family
(70,000 negatives from 1924-62), the Jakova photo studio
(50,000 negatives, 1932-59) and of the Nenshati photo
studio (250,000 Leica and Kodak negatives, 1959-85).
The latter runs a photo shop on Rruga 13 Dhjetori, and is
still documenting city life. With the aid of a French NGO and
MARUBI MARUBI
28
Shkodra In Your Pocket
29
2006 - 2007
ROZAFA CASTLE
Crowning the 113m-high hill towering above the confluence
of the Buna and Drini rivers, Shkodras impressive top sight
is the pride of the locals. Whether its a castle or a fortress/
citadel can be discussed, fact is that Shkodras history
started on this hilltop with the establishment of a Bronze
Age settlement 4000 years ago, followed much later by an
Illyrian fortress. Between the first two castle gates youll
get a glimpse of the Illyrians so-called Cyclopean walls,
consisting of huge, meticulously puzzled-together rocks,
dating back to 350BC.
In early medieval times a proper castle was built, and its
from this period that the famous legend of Rozafa originates
a legend that is found back in various forms across the
Balkans. This particular one was first written down by famous
local writer Marin Barleti in 1504. The story goes that the
three brothers who were constructing the castle arrived to
work each day finding the previous days work demolished.
A wise man was consulted and told them that only a human
sacrifice could stop the devil from stopping their work, and
the brothers agreed to offer the first of their wives who
would come up the hill to bring food. Unfortunately, the two
older brothers broke their promises and told their wives to
stay at home and it was the youngest brothers beautiful
wi fe Rozafa who showed up the next day. She valiantly
agreed to be immured in the castle walls on one condition
a hole should be left so that her right arm could caress
her newborn son, her right breast could feed him, and her
right foot could rock his cradle. Rozafa was immured and the
castle remained standing.
The main medieval building still standing is St. Stephens
Church, built in 1319 and expanded by the Venetians in a
Dalmatian-influenced style in the 15th century; the Venetians
also built new gates and towers. The castle saw terrible
sieges and battles; the Illyrians fought here with the Romans
in 168BC, and in early medieval times, there were Byzantine
and Slav conquests. The worst battles of all were in the 15th
century during the Turkish conquest of the Balkans; first in
1474, and again in 1479 when the Siege of Shkodra left
60,000 people dead a catastrophe for the city and also
for the Christian world, as this was the beginning of centuries
of Ottoman occupation.
The Ottoman chronicler Kemal Pashazade noted the following
about the brave defenders from Shkodra: In spite of our
efforts, we could not uproot the people, who had sharp claws
and bronze bodies. They stayed in the towers of their castles
like tigers on the mountain tops. St. Stephens was turned
into a mosque by adding a minaret to is, and the castle was
transformed into a garrison castle by the Turks and it was
in use for military and city administration purposes until
1865, after that only for the garrison. After Albanian gained
independence in 1914 (the Marubi Photo Collection has a
beautiful photo of the flag-raising ceremony in the castle),
it lost its significance.
The castle has been tinkered with a lot throughout the
millennia, and what you see now is mostly from the Ottoman
and Venetian periods. After entering the massive main gate
complex, there are three courtyards to explore. The first
was for defence purposes; the second and largest courtyard
was for the garrison; the soldiers slept and lived here. Next
to St. Stephens church/mosque theres a building that was
probably built as a prison. Keep you children on a leash in this
courtyard, as there are several well and holes in the ground
leading to the deep cisterns that held the water needed to
keep the castle going during sieges.
The third and highest courtyard was the best defended and
held the garrison leadership. From the walls you have great
views across the city, Lake Shkodra with the mountains of
Montenegro behind it, the Buna river flowing towards the
sea, and the Kiri and Drini rivers which join just below the
castle before flowing into the Buna. You can also spot the old
location of Shkodras town centre below the castle: the lone
Lead Mosque is all thats left of the settlement.
Just in case all the defences failed, they had several secret
passageways chiselled into the rocks, and leading to hidden
exits on the slopes of the hill, and some can be entered. The
Venetian-built arsenal in this courtyard houses the Castle
Museum, which was sadly plundered during the 1997 unrest,
but still is worth a look for the maps, guns, artefacts, the sad
statue of an immured Rozafa and a huge scale model. The
museum has a small shop selling souvenirs and postcards.
Next to the museum is the Rozafa restaurant (see p.20),
which is worth a visit for its terrace with views across the
floodplains, and the Ottoman-style room.
Rozafa Castle, 3km south of the city centre. Open
08:00 22:00. Admission 200 lek (foreigners), 100
lek (locals), 50 lek (children).
The road leading up to the castle is not signposted
from the main road out of Shkodra to Tirana, turn into
the street diagonally opposite the Api petrol station
and turn left up a narrow bumpy road, left again when
you see a small stone bridge and then right across this
bridge all the way to the parking spaces beneath the main
entrance. The road is fine for all cars; you can walk there
from the town centre in an hour too, but its a dusty walk
past some poor areas and in the summer heat the steep
hike is tiring best get a taxi to drop you off.
Adventurous types should bring along a torch to light
up the interiors of the buildings and tunnels that can be
entered. There are no warnings for steep drops or cistern
entrances, so be careful.
Planning your siege
AROUND TOWN
Several sights dotted around Shkodra reveal the citys
importance as an ancient trade town; the bridge at Mes is
easily reached from Shkodra, and can easily be combined
with a visit to the ancient castles of Drisht. East of town,
its a short furgon ride to medieval Sarda. Beyond that, the
boat trip on Lake Koman is one of the great ferry rides of
the world, passing through magnificent and rugged fjord-
like mountain scenery.
Drishti Castle Just six kilometres from Mes bridge (cross
the modern bridge and turn left) and 15km from Shkodra,
theres a chance to see a little-visited medieval castle com-
plex on top of a 800m-high hill, which is still inhabited to this
day. The ancient town of Drivastium was founded in Ill yrian
or Roman times to protect the Kosovo trade route, and was
first mentioned in the 9th century. The large castle from the
12th century was part of a chain of fortifications around
Shkodra. After periods of time under Montenegrin and Vene-
tian rule, the Turks captured the castle in 1478. Nowadays,
apart from the stunning location and views, you can see the
ruins of the castle walls and towers. A small mosque and
a handful of houses, one of them a beautiful Ottoman-era
house, now forms the Muslim village of Kale inside the old
castle walls. To get to the castle, park just after passing the
modern village of Drishti (4WD car necessary in winter), and
walk steep uphill along the old Ottoman paths for about 30
minutes. There are no hotels or restaurants here, so bring
food and plenty of water.
Lake Koman Ferry Possibl y the best trip youll ever do in
Albania is sail the Koman-Fierze ferry. Unfortunatel y, its not
made easy for tourists, with ferries catering to people in Fierze
travelling to the city rather than the other way round; theres
no way to do an easy return trip from Shkodra. Lake Koman
was formed when the rugged Drini valley was dammed in
the earl y 1970s, allowing Albania to quickl y develop its own
industries and become an energy exporter. The huge lake
behind Vau i Dejes dam contains some 320 million cubic
metres of water, and stretches 30km to Fierze, the location
of a second dam which holds back a lake that goes all the
way to Kukes near the Kosovo border.The boat trip passes
between 1000-1500m-high mountains and through a series
of deep gorges and interconnected lakes, wi th hardl y any
signs of human activities on the shores though occasion-
all y the ferry will stop to let off some hardy peasants, who
proceed to climb up the steep hills to their hidden villages. The
wild landscape is somewhat reminiscent of the Norwegian
fjords, and is a dramatic highlight of any trip in Albania. The
car ferry from Koman departs daily at 10:00, arriving in Fierze
at 12:00. Tickets are 500 lek per person and 1300 lek per
square metre of car. The ferry from Fierze to Koman departs
at 07:00, arriving at 09:00 which means theres no option
to return the same day unless you drive across the good but
winding mountain roads to Fushe-Arrez and then either back
to Shkodra or on to Tirana, arri ving in the late afternoon.
There are also private passenger boats making the crossing,
departing from Koman at 09:00 and 09:15 (arriving in Fierze
at respectivel y 11:00 and 11:15); the Fierze-Koman trips are
at 06:30 and 06:45 (arriving in Koman at respectivel y 08:30
and 08:45). Tickets are 300 lek. These private boats can
also be rented out for shorter return trips. To get to Koman
by bus, take a furgon from the crossing of Rruga Skenderbeg
and Rruga Marin Barleti; departures are at 06:30, 07:00 and
07:30 (all arriving in time for the ferry), and 12:00 and 13:30.
The ride takes 1hr 15mins and costs 300 lek. Furgons go
back to Shkodra at 08:00, 09:00 and 09:30.
Medieval Sarda Another wonderful daytrip from Shkodra
is to the ruins of medieval Sarda, 35km east of Shkodra on
the Koman road. Situated just behind the massive Vau i Dejes
hydropower dam (a sight in itself), the ancient town is now on
an island in the artificial lake. Once strategicall y guarding the
Shkodra-Kosovo road, leading up the valley to Prizren, Sarda
was founded in the 6th-8th century BC, and foundations of a
Roman fort have been discovered here. Now you can visit the
ruins of the 11th century medieval castle, which includes two
rings of defensive walls and towers (some sadly submerged in
the lake), the remains of a Byzantine church and other earl y
medieval walls. The setting on the steep rocks rising from the
lake is especially impressive.To get there by bus, take a furgon
from the crossing of Rruga Skenderbeg and Rruga Marin Bar-
leti to Ragam (regular daily departures from 07:00-15:00, 100
lek, 30 minutes, return trips from 08:00-16:00). At Ragam, a
boat will take you across the lake to Sarda island for 200 lek,
taking 10 minutes. Groups of 25 people and more can book a
guided trip which includes visits to Ragam, Sarda, the Shpella
e Pellumbave cave and the viewpoint at Steme for 500 lek per
peson (1500 lek including lunch) via the Sarda Association;
contact Mr. Artef Lekaj at tel. 069 218 51 60.
Mes Bridge (Ura e Mesit) A visi t to the magni ficent
Mes bridge, 6km north of the ci ty, is easil y done from
Shkodra. This is the largest and best-preserved Ottoman
bridge in Albania, buil t along the ancient trade route from
Shkodra to Kosovo which dates back to pre-Roman times. In
fact, the modern road from Shkodra to Mes still follows the
Roman design. Kosovo was of incredible importance to the
Roman, Venetian and other Mediterranean economies. As an
important source of gold and other metals, there was inten-
si ve trade along this route for millennia. Much of the original
route is now submerged below the waters of the Drini valley
dams, but here at Mes you can get an idea of its importance.
The route was not more than a donkey trail, a few metres
wide at most, but Mes bridge that was buil t around 1770
signifies i ts value. The bridge
i s 108 met res l ong, 3m
wide and has 13 arches, of
which the elegant main span
measures 13m. The Ki ri
ri ver it crosses has incredibl y
blue, clear mountain water.
A modern bridge bypasses
the bridge, allowing you to
cross i t and view i t from all
sides in peace. No regular
furgons travel here, so i ts
best to rent a taxi for an hour;
two hours i f you plan to visi t
Drisht as well.
www.inyourpocket.com
30
Shkodra In Your Pocket
LAKE SHKODRA
The massive lake just west of Shkodra, 60% of which is in
Montenegro, is well worth a trip. Along the rugged western
shore there are a few beaches and coves for swimming in
fresh water, and the rustic villages of Shiroke and especially
Zogaj still seem stuck in a different time.
Lake Shkodra is in fact a former sea bay that was cut off
from the Adriatic when the sea levels dropped, thousands
of years ago. The lake is the largest in the Balkans at 41km
long and between 370-530 square kilometres, and the lake
surface varies between 5 and 10 metres above sea level
depending on the season (lowest in winter). As its depth is
up to 60 metres, the bottom of the lake is well below sea
level, making it a so-called cryptodepression.
The Moraca river in Montenegro is the main source of water for
the lake, flushing the whole lake through about 2-3 times a year.
The Buna river near Shkodra is the only outlet, flowing down
41km to the sea. The Buna joins with the Drini river just below
Rozafa Castle, a few kilometres from the lake, and curiously
in winter when the lake surface drops, this top section of the
Buna reverses direction for two to three months, allowing water
to flow from the Drini past Shkodra into the lake. This was a
source of pollution for the lake, because of the heavy metals
leaked by the chromium and other mines at the Drinis upper
reaches. Fortunately, the Drini is improving after the near total
collapse of industrial activities in the 1990s, though the KAP
aluminium smelter and Podgoricas rubbish tip along the Moraca
in Montenegro still cause pollution. Its all generally still within
EU standards, and as long as you dont drink from the Drini,
swimming along the lake shores and eating the fish is fine.
Nature lovers should bring their binoculars Lake Shkoder
is a bird-watchers paradise, with some 240 bird species
i nhabi ti ng i ts shores, i ncl udi ng some of Europes last
pelicans. In the water there are 64 types of fish, and on land
reptiles, wild boar, rabbits, foxes and even the occasional
wolf. The Montenegrin side of the lake is a national park.
The eastern shore of the lake is marshy with dense reeds, and
its difficult to get a glimpse of the lake from the road, which
runs well away from the water. The easiest place to enjoy Lake
Shkodra is on the steep, rocky western shore, accessible by
car, taxi and a very occasional furgon bus.
Dri vi ng from Shkodra across the Buna bri dge and to
the right towards the lake, the stretch from Shkodra to
Shiroke (3km) is the most developed part, wi th many
new constructi ons goi ng up. The centre of Shiroke is
peaceful, with a few restaurants along the harbour quay
and men fishing for their supper from the promenade.
Once past Shiroke, the newly resurfaced road gets narrow
and twisty, following the contours of Mount Tarabosh as
it plunges down to the lake. There are some well-known
restaurants perched on the shore along this stretch (see
Taverna Shkodrana and Panorama in Where to Eat) and
although its mostly scrubland and olive orchards ending
in large rocks along the shore, there are a few small bays
for swimming the lake water is a very pleasant 27C
in summer.
Six kilometres further down the road you arrive at tiny
Zogaj, a tranquil fishing village that has apparently changed
little over the past centuries. With about 40 inhabitants (in
60 families and 16 tribes) living off fishing, raising livestock
and olive oil production, the village is completely Muslim,
and is untouched by modern constructions except for the
new harbour building which allows the fishermen to repair
their nets in the shade. In the earl y morning and late
afternoon you can see the small boats coming in to land with
their catch. The stone houses are up to three stories high,
some of them traditional kulla (tower) type houses, which
were built for defence. Each has a deep well with a supply
of cold fresh water. There are some simple guesthouses
here, though none have names or are signposted; simply
ask around for dhoma (rooms). The asphalt stops at the
village mosque; a track continues on to the Montenegrin
border, but unfortunatel y theres no crossi ng here.I n
the distance you can spot some of the islands in the
Montenegrin part of the lake; to get there, youll have to
backtrack via Muriqan.
Cyclists with their own bikes can make a 177km grand
tour of the lake. A reasonably detailed map was made
in 2005, describing the route from Podgorica via Rijeka
Crnojevica, Virpazar, Muriqan, Shkodra, Kopliku and Tuzi,
and the sights along it (ask at www.eulimnos.org or the
GTZ office in Shkodra for a copy). The route is mostly flat,
with only the part on the western bank hilly.
Biking Lake Shkodra
Bringing the catch home, Zogaj
Shiroke village houses and mount Tarabosh
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The local legacy of the
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Exploring
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April - May 2006
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Boom town
Tiranas new face
On the road
Driving around southern
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2005 - 2006
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Revamped In Your
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The best wavs to dlscover
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Cool sights at the EUs
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Our guide to the best
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April - May 2006
A new passenger boat service between Shkodra and
Virpazar in Montenegro started in June 2006. The Xhenis
company uses two 60-seat boats (which originally plied
the canals of Venice) to sail from the customs office
at Shkodras Buna bridge to the centre of Virpazar in
Montenegro (the boat docks near the new tunnel towards
the coast). Groups can book the boats for international
trips; for the moment there are no regular services for
individual travellers, though you can try asking if theres
a group tour that you can join. The trip takes 2 hours
and 10 minutes one way, and doesnt stop off at any of
the lakeside villages; theres a bar and toilets on board.
Tickets are 600 lek (5 euro) per person, double that for
a return trip. For more information contact Filip Guraziu
in Shkodra (tel. 069 206 78 18, filipguraziu@hotmail.
com) or Ilija Aleksic in Montenegro (Juzmi bulevar bb,
Podgorica, tel. +381 81 62 46 25, tel. +381 69 02 00
20, kingsco@cg.yu).
Lake Shkodra ferry
32
Shkodra In Your Pocket
VELIPOJA
A short drive or furgon minibus ride west of town is
Shkodras playground, the beach at Velipoja. Nearby, the
Buna Delta nature reservation is great for relaxed walks in
the forest and bird-spotting.
Velipoja beach
On summer weekends it seems the whole city smacks on
sunscreen and flops on the wide sandy beach at Velipoja,
34km west of Shkodra. Just 15 years ago, this was a very
simple fishing village with a handful of houses, connected
to Shkodra by an awful road. Now, youre in for a surprise,
as hundreds of mostly illegal constructions have popped
out of the ground, with some hotel balconies just a metre or
two from the next hotel wall. The road is now good, making
a left turn at the entrance of the village and following the
coast south. Furgons zip up and down to Shkodra all day
for about 100 lek.
The beach and its facilities, frankly, are a mess. Theres little
central planning, no paved roads apart from the main road,
haphazard parking, ad hoc kiosks everywhere, no effective
trash collection; foreign donors work with local business
owners to tackle the rubbish problem. Unless you dont
mind a bit of anarchy, youre advised to stay away from the
central beach area, but head a few more kilometres down
to the road to find pleasant deserted stretches of beach
backed by forests.
The hotels and apartments in Velipoja are chock-full of Albanian,
Macedonian and Kosovar tourists in summer, who usually block-
book rooms for weeks on end, and theres little chance of finding
a room for just a few nights in high season. One of the better
options is the Center-Park hotel, which has basic four-bed rooms
with balconies overlooking the pines in the garden (tel. 069 251
72 62, 2600 lek per night). The hotel also serves pizza.
The Buna Del ta
Nature lovers or those just looking for a pleasant walk in
some cool forests can head straight from the beach into the
Buna Delta reservation, between Velipoja and the Buna River
which forms the Montenegrin border here. The Buna is a short
44km river that originates from Lake Shkodra and meanders
its way to the Adriatic sea. Near the sea, the river splits into
a few arms, forming a marshy low-lying delta area, with a
few fishing villages and one large island on the Montenegrin
side (Ada Bojana). On the Albanian side, a few old river arms
have turned into marshy lakes full of wildlife, surrounded by
forests of pine and deciduous trees. The delta is populated
by a rich variety of animals, including logger-head turtles, wild
boar, foxes, jackals, spoonbills, pygmy cormorants, stone
curlews and levant sparrowhawks. Arriving very early in the
morning gives you the most chance of spotting wildlife and
the chance to explore the whole area.
To get here, turn right or have the furgon drop you off at the
large sign for Hotel Belavista, near the local police station
and on your right when near Velipoja. The wooden building
down the small road here is opposite the entrance gate to the
nature reservation; in summer you pay 50 lek admission per
person, and 150 lek for cars. Mind that after wet weather the
rutted paths are not suitable for normal cars, and walking (or
cycling if you have a bike) is the best option. If the gate and
wooden house are unmanned, jump over it, or simply walk
further down the road to the beach and enter the reservation
from there. Its easy to get around the park as there are only
two paths with marshes making shortcuts tricky. There are
no facilities, so bring food, water and mosquito repellent.
From the gate, keep heading straight ahead through dry pine
forests to finally reach a bird-watching tower overlooking the calm
river, with the Ada island across the water. If you follow the road
upriver, youll come to a small fishing village. Halfway between the
gate and the river a turning to the left eventually leads past a large
lake with another high observation tower for birdwatching.
The track continues through fields to the beach near the mouth
of the Buna. The beach here is unfortunately strewn with
plastic rubbish that floated down the river or was chucked from
ships out at sea. In the 1970s and 80s, locals would come to
the beach to see what had washed up from Italy, and plastic
bags and bottles were valued and used at home. Nowadays
even for the Albanians its trash, and if you sit at the shore
looking out at sea you wont notice it too much.
Near where the road emerges theres another tower for
birdwatching. From here you can walk across a sandbar past
a lagoon with twittering birds to the tiny former Franc Jozef
island (now a forested peninsula), named so because of a
Habsburg naval base set up here in 1892.
The wetlands along the river Buna (called the Bojana
in Montenegro) from its source at Lake Shkodra to the
delta, 44km downriver near Velipoja, are a potential
attraction to the region that is recognised by local au-
thorities. A programme for sustainable development and
employment has been started, involving GTZ, Euronatur
and the Ministry of Environment, aiming eventually to
create a new landscape park covering all the wetlands
along both the Albanian and Montenegran sides of the
Buna, and requiring international cooperation between
Shkodra and Ulcinj local governments. For more informa-
tion, contact Drita Dhora in Shkodra (tel. 069 223 67 75,
dridhora@yahoo.com) or Darko Saveljich in Podgorica
(tel. +381 672 45 006, dasav@cg.yu).
Bojana-Buna Landscape Park
Photo removed to make this download version
of Shkodra In Your Pocket lighter;
refer to a print version, available locall y, for all photos.
34
GETTING AROUND
Shkodra In Your Pocket
35
GETTING AROUND
2006 - 2007
One of the most charming aspects of Shkodra life is the
widespread use of bicycles. All kinds of people pedal
around here - from children going to school, pensioners
visiting the market, parents taking their kids to the park
and municipality workers going to work adding to their
health and keeping the city air clean. Unlike Tirana, where
the growling traffic is just too aggressive to survive as a
cyclist, Shkodra has limited and slow-going traffic, and
unlike other Albanian cities is mostly pancake-flat. Its
the quickest way to get around, especially in the evening
when certain central streets are closed for motorised
traffic during the xhiro hours. Theres a host of bicycle
repair shops, although none have yet thought of renting
out bikes to intrepid foreigners. The one thing lacking is
a municipal policy of promoting cycling; the city could do
with good bike lanes.
Shkodra cycles
airplane avjon
ferry trageti
airport aeroport
car veture, makin
train treni
bus autobus
station (train, bus) stacion (treni, autobuzi)
Is it far? A sht Iarg?
left majtas
right djathas
where am I? ku jam?
Travel terms
Fasten your seatbelt - its going to be a bumpy but fun ride.
See p.30 for more on the passenger boat service between
Shkodra and Virpazar in Monntenegro.
Trains
Albanian Railways (Hekurudha Shqiptare, depicting a TGV
high speed train on their website www.hsh.com.al) runs two
wheezing and clanking trains per day from Shkodra to Tirana
and back. It isnt particularly fast, comfortable or clean but
its certainly a fun and cheap way to travel. If youre in a
hurry, take the bus. Shkodras large train station on Rruga
Revolucioni Antikomunist Hungarez 1956 (Rr. Stacionit te
Trenit) at the eastern fringe of town is a clean and pleasant
place to wait; ticket counters only open before departures
and theres no left luggage office. The railway to Podgorica
is currently only used for freight trains, but may see a weekly
passenger service starting in July 2006.
Buses
If youre not driving, buses are the most convenient way of get-
ting around Albania. Most intercity travel in Albania takes place
with privately run buses, and with minibuses called furgons.
After a few wild years, market forces have provided travellers
with more quality and regular services.In Shkodra there are
regular buses to Tirana run by Rozafa Ortaket, departing at
06:00, 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00 and 11:00 from outside
the round Radio Shkodra building on Sheshi 5 Heronjte square,
near the Rozafa hotel, and dropping passengers off at Tiranas
train station. The departure times from Tirana to Shkodra are
at 11:30, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, and 16:00. The trip
takes 2 hours 15 minutes, perhaps 15 minutes longer if the
traffic is bad, and costs 200 lek. These buses are clean with
comfortable seats and often air conditioning too. They also
run one daily bus to Durres, departing Shkodra at 07:15, and
making the return trip at 13:15; tickets are 300 lek and the
trip takes about 3 hours. Furgons are a different story these
arent allowed into the city centre and furgons to Tirana depart
from the main road, between Rozafa Castle and the city. There
are no set departure times drivers wait for the minibus to fill
up and leave. The ride to Tirana also costs 200 lek, drops you
off at the station, and is perhaps 10 to 20 minutes quicker
than the bus, but be warned that drivers often drive excessively
From Shkodra To Shkodra
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
06:40 10:17 TIRANA 08:20 11:54
12:15 15:43 TIRANA 13:18 17:05
Tickets 120 lek.
Shkodra train schedule
fast and perform interesting overtaking manoeuvres. Furgons
to the towns northeast and east of Shkodra depart from the
crossing of Rruga Marin Barleti and Rruga Skenderbeg - they
are much less frequent, and its a good idea to arrive around
06:00 or 07:00 to catch the one you need.Buses to Ulcinje
and Podgorica in Montenegro are run by two companies. The
Samsel travel agency has comfy buses driving from outside
the Rozafa hotel to the Rozafa Bar in central Ulcinje at 09:00
and 15:00 daily, with return trips at 06:00 and 13:00, taking
about 1,5 hours. Tickets are 500 lek and can be booked in ad-
vance. The morning service allows a connection with the bus to
Kotor. Another minibus run by Hoxha does the same trip every
day for similar prices, leaving Shkodra at 09:00 and 17:30, and
returning from Ulcinj at 06:00 and 14:30. On demand, Samsel
runs a bus to Podgorica for 9/1100 lek per person in a group
or 33/4000 lek for individuals, and 40/4920 lek to/from
Podgorica airport.
Balkania Lines E-2/3, Rr. Marin Barleti, tel. 069 261
24 55. Balkania Lines runs a daily international bus to Greece
from Shkodra at 01:30 to Athens (25, arrival at 18:00) via
Ioannina (20) and Patra (23), with stops in Tirana (stopping
4km down the Tirana-Durres highway at 02:45), Tepelena and
Gjirokaster. The fare from Tirana or Gjirokaster to Athens is
20. Their Tirana office is on Bulevardi Zogu i Zi, near Zerit te
Popullit. Q Open 08:00 12:00, 16:00 19:00.
Rozafa Ortaket C-1, Rr. Bujar Bishanaku, tel. 069
252 92 22/069 212 01 61. Regular dail y buses between
Shkodra and Tirana, once dail y to and from Durres.
From Durres To Durres
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
18:00 18:00 TRIESTE* 13:00 13:00
19:00 13:00 ANCONA** 22:00 16:00
ANCONA*** 19:00 13:00
Ferries Grecia and Venezia run by Adria; contact any
travel agent for booking information.
* From Durres on Tue, Wed, Sun. From Trieste on Tue,
Thu, Sat.
** From Durres on Fri, Sun. From Ancona on Mon.
*** On Sat.
Durres Ferry Schedule
Public transport
Shkodra doesnt have much in the way of public transport;
just one busline running from Bahallek (the bridge across the
Drini on the Tirana road) via the city centre to the Fermentim
industrial area in the north of town. Buses go every 15 min-
utes between 06:05 and 14:00 and then every 20 minutes
until 20:00. Tickets are 20 lek, cheaper than walking, and can
be bought on board. Useful for travelling from the city centre
to the Tirana furgon stand or to the foot of the citadel.
Taxis
Shkodras taxis can be found lurking around Sheshi 5
Heronjte square, near the Rozafa hotel, and at the furgon
bus stop south of the centre. Forget about taxi metres and
standard rates; as a foreigner youre fair game and should
count on paying 100-200 lek for a drive across town; always
agree on a price beforehand. A taxi ride to the castle and
back (with an hours wait) around 500 lek, a ride to Shiroke
around 600 lek. A taxi to Podgorica in Montenegro will cost
around 40; if youre just going to the border at Hani i Hotit,
2000 lek (16).
Car rental
Although some local travel agents may be able to rustle up a
car, Albanias main car rental agencies are all in Tiranas city
centre or airport. Theyll happily drive a car up to Shkodra for
you if you should need one. Renting a car costs from around
45 per day for the cheapest model. Make sure you have the
helpline number, a mobile phone, a good map and nerves of
steel. Tiranas car rental companies are:
Alb Rr. Sami Frasheri, Pallatet Agimi, tel. (04)28 81
66/068 22 47 721. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00.
Avis Blv. Dshmoret e Kombit, Rogner Hotel, tel. (04)
23 50 11, fax 23 50 24, reservations@avisalbania.com,
www.avisalbania.com. Avis operates a fleet of brand-new
Opel vehicles, from the Corsa to the 4x4 Opel Frontera. QOpen
08:30 - 18:30, Sun 08:30 - 14:00. Also at Hotel Sheraton (tel.
(04)26 63 89/068 20 55 806, open 08:30 - 18:30, Sun 08:30
- 14:00) and the airport (tel. 068 20 55 807).
Europcar Rr. e Durrsit 61, tel. (04)22 78 88/068 20
93 922, fax 24 61 92, europcar@abissnet.com, www.
europcar.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Hertz Sheshi Skenderbej, International Hotel, tel.
(04)25 50 28/068 20 58 775, hertz@albaniaonline.net,
www.hertz.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. Also Rr. Ded Gjo Luli 1, and at the airport (tel. 068
20 58 775, open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 16:00).
Chinese steam rollers waiting for work
The Ulcinj bus
36
Shkodra In Your Pocket
GETTING AROUND
37
GETTING AROUND
2006 - 2007
From Tirana To Tirana
Days Dep. Arr. City Days Dep. Arr.
2 07:15 09:15 ATHENS (LV) 2 10:15 12:15
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:30 17:05 ATHENS (OA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:45 15:20
1 3 5 08:25 14:25 ATHENS (OA) 1 3 5 07:45 09:45
1 3 5 7 14:00 16:00 ATHENS (LV) 1 3 5 6 7 17:00 17:00
1 2 3 5 6 12:00 12:40 BARI (4H) 1 3 4 5 6 13:30 14:10
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:30 29:20 BARI (ZY) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 10:50
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:15 07:25 BELGRADE (JU) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:35 22:45
1 3 5 13:20 15:00 BERGAMO (4H) 1 3 5 16:00 17:40
2 15:00 16:40 BRESCIA (4H) 2 17:50 19:30
1 2 3 4 5 6 14:00 15:30 BOLOGNA (LV) 1 2 3 4 5 6 18:00 19:30
7 10:00 11:30 BOLOGNA (LV) 7 12:30 14:00
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:25 16:45 BUDAPEST (MA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:20 14:40
1 3 4 5 6 7 05:10 06:30 BUDAPEST (MA) 1 3 4 5 6 7 23:05 00:25
6 7 23:35 01:45 COLOGNE (4U) 6 7 20:45 23:35
4 7 11:20 12:50 FLORENCE (6P) 4 7 13:20 14:50
2 11:15 13:35 FRANKFURT (LV) 2 15:10 17:40
6 06:30 09:15 FRANKFURT (LV) 6 10:15 12:40
7 15:00 17:40 FRANKFURT (LV) 7 18:30 21:10
2 07:00 08:40 GENOA (4H) 2 09:30 11:10
6 19:50 21:20 GENOA (4H) 6 22:20 23:50
3 6 16:30 19:20 GENOA (LBY) 3 6 23:10 00:50
1 3 5 09:00 11:30 ISTANBUL (LV) 1 3 5 12:30 13:00
4 7 13:00 15:30 ISTANBUL (LV) 4 7 18:30 19:00
1 4 10:00 12:40 ISTANBUL (TK) 1 4 08:15 09:00
2 6 7 18:30 21:10 ISTANBUL (TK) 2 6 7 18:45 17:30
1 3 5 04:45 06:05 LJUBJANA (JP) 1 3 5 00:20 01:45
2 4:45 06:05 LJUBJANA (JP) 2 00:20 01:45
1 4 6 20:30 22:35 LONDON (BA) 1 4 6 15:45 19:45
2 4 6 7 07:20 09:20 MILAN (LV) 2 4 6 7 10:40 12:40
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 05:00 07:00 MILAN (AZ) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:25 11:20
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:45 18:45 MILAN (AZ) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:30 00:25
1 3 5 08:40 10:40 MILAN (LV) 1 3 5 11:30 13:30
4 7 14:30 16:00 PISA (4H) 4 7 17:00 18:30
4 7 06:00 07:00 PESCARA (4H) 4 7 08:00 09:00
1 3 5 14:45 15:30 PRISTINA (LV) 1 3 5 16:45 17:30
2 4 6 13:15 14:00 PRISTINA (LV) 2 4 6 15:00 15:45
7 10:30 11:15 PRISTINA (LV) 7 12:00 12:45
3 6 07:50 09:00 RIMINI (4H) 3 6 09:50 11:00
1 3 5 6 09:00 10:30 ROME (LV) 1 3 5 6 11:30 13:00
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:10 13:40 ROME (AZ) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:25 15:25
3 6 05:55 07:25 ROME (LB) 3 6 08:25 10:00
3 5 09:20 10:30 SOFIA (DU) 2 4 16:15 17:30
1 3 5 08:30 12:10 TURIN (LV) 1 3 5 13:00 15:00
7 07:45 09:45 TURIN (LV) 7 10:45 12:45
1 5 07:20 08:50 VENICE (4H) 1 5 09:50 11:10
6 15:00 16:30 VERONA (6H) 6 17:30 19:00
4 7 09:50 11:20 VERONA (4H) 4 7 12:10 13:40
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:40 18:35 VIENNA (OS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:45 15:30
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:15 16:15 VIENNA (OS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:50 12:40
1 3 5 7 05:00 06:35 VIENNA (OS) 1 3 5 7 22:25 23:55
2 07:30 09:30 ZURICH (LV) 2 10:30 12:30
6 16:30 18:30 ZURICH (LV) 7 06:30 08:30
Airline codes: 4H - Albatros Airways; 6P - Club Air; AZ- Alitalia; BA - British Airways; DU - Hemus Air; E8 - Alpi
Eagles; JP - Adria Airways; JU - Jat; LBY Belleair; LV - Albanian Airlines; MA - Malev; OA - Olympic Airways; OS
- Austrian Airlines; SHY - Sunexpress; TK - Turkish Airlines; ZY - Ada Air.
Figures indicate days of departure: 1 is Monday, 2 is Tuesday, and so on. This schedule is valid until October 2006 but
may change in the meantime; contact the airlines or the airport (www.tirana-airport.com) before flying.
Tirana Flight Schedule Airlines
Travel agents in Shkodra can book airline tickets; for all
other inquiries contact the airlines. Here are the details of
the Tirana offices:
Ada Air Rr. Dervish Hima, Ada Tower, tel. (04)25 61 11, fax
42 33 21, www.adaair.com. Budget flights to and from Bari.
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 18:00, Sun 08:30 - 19:00.
Albanian Airlines Rr. Mine Peza 2, tel. (04)23 51 62,
fax 23 51 38, www.albanianairlines.com.al. Albanias
national airline. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.
Alitalia Blv. Deshmoret e Kombit, Hotel Rogner Europap-
ark, tel. (04)23 00 23, fax (04)25 70 61, www.alitalia.it.
QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Austrian Airlines Blv. Dshmoret e Kombit, in Rogner
Hotel Europapark, tel. (04)23 50 29, fax (04) 23 50
26, tirana.office@aua.com, www.aua.com/al. QOpen
09:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Hemus Air (Bulgaria) Rr. e Durrsit 64/1, tel. (04)23
04 10, fax (04)26 79 89, tirana@hemusair.bg, www.
hemusair.bg.QOpen 08:30 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
Malev (Hungary) Rr. Abdi Toptani, Torre Drin Centre,
tel. (04)22 79 00, fax (04)23 45 78, tirana@malev.
hu, www.malev.com.QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 -
12:00. Closed Sun.
Olympic Airways (Greece) Blv. Zog I, Veve Business
Centre, tel. (04)22 89 60, www.olympic-airways.com.
QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.
Turkish Airlines Sheshi Skenderbej, Tirana Interna-
tional Hotel, tel. (04)23 49 02, fax (04)24 09 64, www.
turkishairlines.com.QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 -
15:00. Closed Sun.
Travel Agents
All travel agents can sell plane tickets (from both Tirana
and Podgorica airports) and ferry tickets for ships depart-
ing from Durres.
Alban Travel E-3, Rr. Marin Barleti, tel./fax 517 04. Q
Open 09:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00.
Balkan Peace Park Rr. Marin Barleti, tel. 517 04.
Organisation specialised in mountain travel. Near the post
office. Contact person: Petrit Imeraj.
Eni Travel E-1, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 441 41/068 213
60 29.
Erigys Travel D-2, Sheshi 5 Heronjte (Hotel Rozafa),
tel. 427 67/069 210 18 09.
Europe Travel & Tours E-1, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 439
97/068 213 17 65.
Kopliku Travel C-1, Rr. Bujar Bishanaku, Tregu Gjylbe-
gu, tel./fax 503 70, tel. 068 245 72 90, koplikutravel@
yahoo.it.
Preval D-3, Rr. Don Bosko, tel. 480 64. Also near the
exchange market, tel. 459 27 and 068 216 29 86.
Samsel D-2, Rr. Vasil Shanto, Hotel Rozafa, tel. 471
57/068 205 93 21, samsel_travel@yahoo.it. Runs
the minibus services to Montenegro: two dail y buses to
Ulcinje/Ulqin and a direct service to Podgorica on demand.
A second outlet is on Rr. Don Bosko, tel. 501 41. Q Open
07:30-15:00, 17:00-20:00.
Shkodra Travel C-2, Rr. Vasil Shanto, tel. 428 97/069
209 12 88.
Vizion Travel E-1, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 415 54.
Student accommodation
Shkodra train station
38
MAIL & PHONES
Shkodra In Your Pocket
39
2006 - 2007
Postcards Letters (<20gr)
Albania 15 lek 20 lek
Italy, Greece, Kosovo
& Macedonia
20 lek 30 lek
Rest of Europe 30 lek 50 lek
Americas 50 lek 90 lek
Other 40 lek 60 lek
Rates for sending an express mail package with docu-
ments from Tirana, weighing a maximum of 500g:
London New York
DHL 39 44
FedEx 28 35
TNT 37 44
Postal & Express Mail rates
Nati onal tel ecommuni cati ons provi der Al btel ecom
provides internet access from fixed phone lines. Using
your dial-up software to access tel. 717 11 11, enter
username and password albtelekom. If you find the
line busy, try later. Calls are charged 150 lek/hour to
the phone account you are using.
Laptop login
Berat 32
Durrs 52
Elbasan 54
Fier 34
Xhirokastr 84
Kavaja 554
Kora 82
Kruja 511
Kuova 33
Kuks 24
La 30
Lezh 36
Librazhdi 353
Lushnj 35
Peqin 512
Prmet 813
Peshkopi 373
Pogradec 832
Sarand 85
Shijak 571
Shkodr 22
Tepelen 814
Tiran 4
Vlor 47
Albanian telephone codes
Albania 355
Australia 61
Austria 43
Belgium 32
Bosnia-Herz. 387
Bulgaria 359
Canada 1
Czech Rep. 420
Croatia 385
Denmark 45
Finland 358
France 33
Germany 49
Greece 30
Hungary 36
Ireland 353
Israel 972
Italy 39
Japan 81
Macedonia 389
Moldova 373
Netherlands 31
Poland 48
Romania 40
Russia 7
Serbia & Mont.
381
Spain 34
Sweden 46
Turkey 90
Ukraine 380
UK 44
USA 1
International country codes
Post
Post Office D-2, Rr. Marin Barleti, tel. 439 01/437
31. Shkodras main post office: stamps, packages, tele-
phone calls, and telephone cards. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
Express mail
The western Union offices on Rr. Branko Kadia, Rr.
Muhamet Gjollesha and Rr. lirimi are representatives
for UPS, Sky NET and for Albanian Courier packages to
Greece and Cyprus.
Albanian Courier D-1, Rr. Vasil Shanto, tel. 48 543.
The local Albanian express mail company. QOpen 08:30 -
16:30. Closed Sun.
DHL D/E-2, Rr. Marin Barleti, tel. 428 41, dhlshkoder@
yahoo.it, www.dhl.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
FedEx (Europa Travel) E-1, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 439
97, www.fedex.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
TNT Rr. Perparim Raboshta, tel. 069 206 11 99. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Telephones
Modern public card telephones can be found dotted
around town. Instructions are in Albanian only, but
its simple enough. Often youll find some handy local
entrepreneurs hanging around them that rent out their
phone cards in exchange for a fee thats slightly higher
than i f youd buy one yoursel f - but at least now you dont
need to buy one. I f you dont want to support the black
market or want to start your own business, buy cards
worth 500 lek and 1000 lek in the post office or at a
kiosk. Local phone numbers consist of five (sometimes
four) digits. Shkodras city code is 022; Albanias country
code is +355.
Mobile phones
Albania has some of the highest mobile phone rates in
Europe. Two providers are now active in Albania. AMC
numbers start with 068, Vodafone numbers with 069.
The arrival of a third operator on the market, Albtelekoms
Eagle Mobile, should bring some more competition.
Getting a local SIM card to slip into your mobile will save
you lots of roaming surcharges. You can easily purchase
pre-paid SIM cards (about 2000 lek) and recharge cards
for both operators at kiosks; no local address or ID
necessary. National rates for pre-paid calling are between
0,75-1,2 lek per second.
AMC B-3, Rr. Vasil Shanto, tel./fax 503 74, amc-
shkoder@amc.al. Q Open 09:00 14:00, 17:00
20:30.
Vodafone E-1, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel./fax 471 87. Q Open
09:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Internet cafs
Albtek B-3, Rr. Zog I, tel. 068 256 99 99. The most
civilised internet caf in town, with a computer shop and good
ventilation, light and PCs. Internet for 120 lek/hr. Just south
of the park. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Artcom C-2, Rr. 16 Nentori, tel. 521 55, www.artco-
monline.net. A large basement internet caf with decent
computers and seating. The sign outside boldl y states that
We are the best. 120 lek/hr. Also above ground on Rr. Marin
Barleti, near the corner with Rr. Skenderbeg (E-3, open 09:00
- 21:00). QOpen 07:30 - 22:00.
Hapa te Lehte E/F-2, Rr. Branko Kadia 57, tel. 440 22,
qendragruashk@yahoo.com. Serious internet access at 3
terminals in the womens centre caf. 100 lek/hr. QOpen
07:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
LANGUAGE
Albanian is an Indo-European language with a 36-letter
alphabet; like the country itself it is one of a kind. There are
distant links with Romanian, and many words on loan from
Turkish, Greek and Slavic.
An i ncreasi ng number of Al banians speaks a forei gn
language: Italian is extremely widespread (thanks to satellite
dishes and emigration), English is catching on fast, and many
Albanians in the south understand Greek.
Pronunciation
a as in father
c as in pizza
as in church
dh as in that
e as in set
as in term
gj as in dodge
i as in machine
j as in year
II as in still
nj as in union
q as show
r as in rope
rr is a trilled r
x as in judge
Niceties & Necessities
Yes Po
No Jo
Good Mir
Please Ju lutem
Thank you Faleminderit
Sorry! M vjen keq!
Good morning Mirmngjes Good day Mirdita
Hello kemi
Good night Natn e mir
Good luck with your work! Pun e mbar!
Cheers! Gzuar!
All the best! Gjith t mirat!
Excuse me! M falni!
How are you? Si jeni?
Practicalities
When? Kur?
Where? Ku?
Who? Kush?
Why? Pse?
What? far?
I have... Kam...
I am... Jam...
Whats your name? Si quheni?
My name is... Quhem...
Im from... Une jam nga...
...UK ...Anglia
...USA ...Amerika
...Germany ...Gjermania
I dont understand Nuk kuptoj
I dont speak Albanian Nuk flas shqip
A ticket, please Nj bilet, ju lutem
How much does this cost? Sa kushton?
Signs
Open Hapur Closed Mbyllur
Entrance Hyrje Exit Dalje
Push Shtyj
Pull Terheq
Numbers
0 - zero
1 - nj
2 - dy
3 - tre
4 - kater
5 - pes
6 - gjasht
7 - shtat
8 - tet
9 - nent
10 - dhjet
20 - njzet
50 - pesdhjet
100 - njqind
1000 -njmij
Days
Monday E Hn
Tuesday E Mart
Wednesday E Mrkur
Thursday E Enjte
Friday E Premte
Saturday E Shtun
Sunday E Diel
Months
January Janar
February Shkurt
March Mars
April Prill
May Maj
June Qeshor
July Korrik
August Gusht
September Shtator
October Tetor
November Nntor
December Dhjetor
Time
Now Tani
Later M von
Today Sot
Tomorrow Nesr
Yesterday Dje
In the morning N mngjes
In the afternoon Masdite
In the evening N dark
At night Natn
Window shop
www.inyourpocket.com
40
SHOPPING
Shkodra In Your Pocket
41
2006 - 2007
DIRECTORY
Art Galleries
AG Gallery E-1, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 068 231 00 84.
Art Gallery Rozafa C-3, Rr. Daut Borici 1115, tel. 510
49/069 268 84 73, rozafa_gallery@yahoo.com. Q Open
08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00.
Art Studio E-1, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 069 246 20 97.
A small gallery run by Al tin Muiqi, selling tradi tional-style
paintings and also organising painting courses, should you
want to stick around for a while. Q Open 09:00 -15:00,
17:00 - 21:00.
Galleria 3+1 E-2, Rr. Branko Kadia, tel. 068 250 59
89. Ahmet Malevias art gallery. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00,
16:00 - 20:00.
Iris C-4, Rr. Shyqyri Bushati 3, tel. 068 203 38 99. Q
Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00.
Studio Art Impression Rr. Branko Kadia, tel. 069 236
24 08. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00.
Birds
Zoo shop C/D-2, tel. 069 242 44 44. Budgies, canaries,
cages and seeds. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00.
Books
Dont count on finding many English-language books in
Shkodra Tiranas the place for that. The citys stalls
and shops have pricey city maps, postcards and the oc-
casional tourist book.
Librari Ora e Shkodres D-2, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 069
248 95 88. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Rozafa D-1, Sheshi 5 Heronjte e Vigut, tel. 068 239 73
78. Q Open 08:00 15:00, 17:00 - 21:00.
Fashion
Cons Jeans Boutique E-1, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 069 225
28 16. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00.
Flowers
Flower House C-3, Rr. Jorgji Karamitri, tel. 069 221
28 99. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Flower shop D-2, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 068 225 50 89.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Food
Euro Supermarket C-2, Rr. Oso Kuka, tel. 069 221 82
73. One of the few supermarkets in the centre, behind the
Radio Shkodra building. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Pasticarie C-2, Rr. Oso Kuka. Delicious dried fruit, nuts,
sweets and various products for diabetes patients and
weight watchers.
Prohime te Kelmendit E/F-2, Rr. Branko Kadia, tel.
069 234 39 08. The products from Kelmend shop sells
exactly that natural home-made products from the Kelmend
region, which is in the northernmost, wildest tip of Albania
around Vermosh and Selce. Get thick sugary honey (mjal te),
pomegranate syrup (shege sirup), wine (vere), fig jam (recel
fiku) and plum jam (recel kumbulle) and bottles of potent
raki here. Not exactl y cheap, but top quality, and they make
excellent presents. If the shop is closed when it shouldnt
be, look for the owner in the Hapa te Lehte caf across the
street. Q Open 07:30-13:00, 16:00-19:00.
Photography
Foto Jakova D-2, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 482 27/068 204
43 06. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Foto Nenshati E-1, tel. 481 62. Still owned by the famil y
who ran the famous Marubi studio. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
Studio Halluni D-2, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 482 74. QOpen
07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Souvenirs
Dritan Ramadani Rr. Bujar Bishanaku, Tregu Gjylbegu,
tel. 472 91. Local handicrafts. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00,
17:00 - 20:00.
Shkodra Souvenir E-1, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 069 263
00 39. Souvenir shop at the top end of the street. Q Open
08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 21:00.
Souvenir Komi Rr. Daniel Matila, tel. 069 210 58 33.
Adnan Komis art and souvenir shop. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00,
17:00 - 21:00.
Souvenir Xama D-2, Rr. Marin Barleti, tel. 068 294 15
14. A tiny souvenir shop near the post office selling national
costumes, bronze plates, carved eagles and faded postcards.
Q Open 08:00-13:30, 17:00-20:30.
Suvenire C-1, Rr. Oso Kuka. Small souvenir shop next to
the historical museum.
Health
Dentists
Ask for the Klinike Dentare, and smile. See also the
Policlinic for dentists.
Dr. Besnik Rusi Rr. Bashkimi (Mahalla e akejve),
tel. 423 68.
Dr. Dedin Kola E-3, Rr. Marin Barleti, tel. 068 220 50 51.
Dr. Sami Dibra C-3, Rr. Jorgji Karamitri, tel. 480 88. Q
Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Dr. Shyqi Bazhdari E-3, Rr. Marin Barleti, tel. 069
213 23 13.
Star Dents C-2, Rr. 16 Nentori, tel. 068 225 00 00/069
228 78 78. Dr. Agetina and Dr. A. Kastrati.
Hospitals & Clinics
Brijo Clinic Rr. Serreq, tel. 069 288 74 96.
Policlinic (Poliklinika) C-2, Rr. 16 Nentori, tel. 433
47. Dentistry department: tel. 422 31.
Shkodra Hospital J/K-2, Rr. Marsel Kashen, tel. 427
69/443 51.
Opticians
Arjan Begu C-1, Rr. Bujar Bishanaku, Tregu Gjylbegu,
tel. 417 57.
Pharmacies
Albaforma E-3, Rr. Marin Barleti, tel. 424 85.
Causholli E-3, Rr. Marin Barleti, tel. 069 220 13 54.
Geci D-2, Rr. Marin Barleti, tel. 244 86 60. New, modern
pharmacy next to the Milennium cinema. Q Open 08:00
- 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Luleta D-2, Rr. 16 Nentori, tel. 068 216 66 79.
Business
Banks
Banca Italo-Albanese D-2, Rr. 13 Dhjetori. The funky
building next to the Colosseo hotel with a modern blue glass
cube stuck on top of an old building. ATM for local cards only.
ProCredit Bank D-1/2, Rr. 13 Dhjetori 4, tel. 21 15,
www.procreditbank.com.al. An office near the Colosseo
hotel, with an ATM that accepts Maestro and Visa compatible
foreign bank cards.
Raiff eisen Bank D-2, Sheshi 5 Heronjte (Hotel
Rozafa), www.raiffeisen.al. The Austrian bank has two
offices in town (the other on Rr. Vasil Shanto), both wi th
ATMs that accept Maestro and Visa compatible foreign
bank cards.
Tirana Bank Rr. 13 Dhjetori. ATM is for local cards onl y.
Currency exchange
Apart from using the handful of ProCredit and Rai ffeisen
Bank ATMs dotted around the city centre to get your
leks, you can change cash money (euros, dollars and
pounds all accepted) at the banks themselves, at private
exchange offices or on the street. All exchange offices
are concentrated on Rr. M. Gjollesha (D-1/2) near the
Al-Zamir mosque, with plenty of freelance changers
outside on the street offering similar rates. Changing with
these men is perfectly legal, but make sure you know
the right exchange rate and count the money carefully
nevertheless.
Insurance
Albsig Insurance Society C-2, Rr. Oso Kuka 1, tel./fax
519 43, tel. 069 206 78 18, filipguraziu@hotmail.com,
www.albsig.com.al.
Money transfer
The following Western Union agents can transfer money in
a flash, at a fee.
Bashkim Haxhia C-2, Rr. 16 Nentori, tel. 424 75.
QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Inform Shkodra B-3, Rr. Vasil Shanto, tel. 439 32.
QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Western Union E-1, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 450 30.
QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Officials
Associations
Albanian Speleological Association Rr. D. Borii,
1265, tel. 411 37. Caving enthusiasts. Contact: Gezim
Urui.
AlbanianAustrian Friendship Association L. K.
Permetit, tel. 432 79. Contact: Mahir Hoti.
AlbanianTurkish Cultural Association Rr. Llujaj 42,
tel. 437 37. Contact: Ferit Lluja.
Amateurs of Shkodra Songs C-1, Rr. Oso Kuka, tel.
470 63. Contact: Isa Alibali.
Balkan Link - Montenegrin Friendship Association
L. V. Kushi, tel. 405 24. Contact: Berhan ulii.
Center for Disabled People C-2, Rr. Vasil Shanto 33,
tel. 401 72. Contact: Antoneta Pero. Plastic flowers on Rr. Oso Kuka
Second hand shoes
Ye Olde Pharmacy
42
Shkodra In Your Pocket
DIRECTORY
43
DIRECTORY
2006 - 2007
Shkodra consulates
A few countries have consulates in Shkodra - for all other
diplomatic shenanigans youll have to call your man in
Tirana.
Austria Rr. Vaso Kadia 170, tel./fax 470 14, honorar-
konsulat@yahoo.it, gjergjleqejza@hotmail.co. The Aus-
trian Honorary Consul is Mr. Gjergj Leqejza. Q Open 09:00
- 12:00, Wed also 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Italy D-3, Rr. Don Bosko, tel. 482 60, fax 482 86, www.
consitalia-scutari.org.
Turkey D-2, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel. 471 89/068 230 95 41.
The Turkish Honorary Consul is Mr. Hedi Teli.
Tirana embassies
Opening hours refer to the working hours of the visa/visi-
tor departments. Its highly advisable to phone in advance
to check opening hours or make an appointment. If your
embassy is not in the list, Albania is probably covered by
the representation in Rome.
Austria Rr. Frederik Shiroka 3, tel. (04)23 31 44, fax
23 31 40, austemb@adanet.com.mail. QOpen 10:00 -
12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Bulgaria Rr. Skenderbej 12, tel. (04)23 31 55, fax 23
89 37, bgemb@icc.al.eu.org. QOpen 08:30 - 12:00.
Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.
China Rr. Skenderbej 57, tel. (04)22 83 03, fax 23
31 59. QOpen 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Thu,
Sat, Sun.
Croatia Rr. Abdyl Topani, Torre Drin centre, tel. (04)22
83 90, fax 23 05 78, croembassy@interalb.net. QOpen
09:00 - 11:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun.
Czech Republic Rr. Skenderbej 10, tel. (04)23 21
17/23 40 04. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sat,
Sun.
Denmark Rr. Nikolla Tupe 1, floor 4, ap. 4, tel. (04)25
74 22, tiaamb@tiaamb.um.dk. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Egypt Rr. Skenderbej 43, tel. (04)23 30 22. QOpen
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
France Rr. Skenderbej 14, tel. (04)23 42 50, ambcrtir@
mail.adanet.com.al. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:30 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Germany Rr. Skenderbej 8, tel. (04)27 45 05, fax 23 34
97, grembtir@albnet.net, www.tirana.diplo.de. QOpen
08:30 - 12:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.
Greece Rr. Frederik Shiroka 3, tel. (04)23 42 90/23
44 43, grembtir@albnet.net. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Hungary Rr. Skenderbej 16, tel. (04)22 76 98/25
50 38, fax 23 04 09. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Italy Rr. Leke Dukagjini, tel. (04)23 40 45, fax 24 67
08, ambattia@icc.al.eu.org. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Macedonia Rr. Kavajes, tel. (04)23 30 36, macambas@
mfa.no.QOpen 09:00 - 11:00.
Netherlands Rr. Asim Zeneli 10, tel. (04)24 08 26, fax
23 27 23, nlemb@icc.al.eu.org. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Norway Blv. Deshmoret e 4 Shkurtit, Pall. 5, Ap. 3, tel.
(04)22 11 41, fax 22 16 66, emb.tirana@mfa.no. QOpen
10:00 - 12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.
Poland Rr. e Durresit 123, tel. (04)23 41 90, fax 23 33
64, polemb@albaniaonline.net. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00.
Closed Mon, Fri, Sat, Sun.
Romania Rr. Themistokli Germenji 1, tel./fax 25 60 72.
QOpen 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Sat, Sun.
Russia Rr. Asim Zeneli 5, tel. (04)25 60 40, fax 25 66
46. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.
Serbia & Montenegro Rr. e Durresit 192/196, tel.
(04)23 20 91, fax 22 20 89. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Spain (Honorary consulate) Rr. Vellezerit Manas-
triliu 81/1, tel. (04)23 76 58, fax 22 46 93. QOpen
08:30 - 14:00.
Sweden Rr. Jul Variboba 6, tel. 34 34 86, fax 37 44 10,
atlascoco@icc.al.eu.org. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu
10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Switzerland Rr. e Elbasanit 81, tel. (04)23 48 88, fax
23 48 89, swissamb@adanet.com.al. QOpen 09:00 -
12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Turkey Rr. e Kavajs 31, tel./fax 23 27 19, turkemb@
adanet.com.al. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
United Kingdom Rr. Skenderbej 12, tel. (04)23 49 73.
United States Rr. e Elbasanit 103, tel. (04)24 72
85, fax 37 49 57, www.usemb-tirana.rpo.at. Open for
foreigners from 14:00 - 16:00. QOpen 13:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
GOs & NGOs
The following governmental and non-governmental
organisations are all active in Shkodra city or region, some
with a local or Tirana office, some only with a local contact
person.
Albanian Alps Institute (AAI), tel. 068 21 69 02,
info@albanianalps.org, www.albanianalps.org. Aid for
schools and libaries in the Shkodra region. The founder of
AAI also organises occasional bike and hiking trips in summer.
Contact: Marash Rakaj.
Albanian Foundation for Training & Development
(AFTD) Rr. Y. Basha 88, tel. 463 91. Contact: Aleks
Dushi.
ASDI Service, asdi_albania@yahoo.it. Domestic As-
sistance. Contact: Almi Kurti.
Association of Albanian Municipalities (AAM) Rr.
Ismail Qemali, Pall. Fratari, Tirana, tel. 576 03, fax 576
06, aam@albmail.com. Contact: Fatos Hodaj.
Austrian Development Agency (ADA) Rr. Komuna e
Parisit, Shk.2, Ap.4e, Tirana, tel. 27 06 74, tirana@ada.
gv.at, www.ada.gv.at. Austrian project for the rehabilita-
tion of the water suppl y and wastewater collection system
in Shkodra. Contact: Christopher Opancar.
Civil Society Development Center (CSDC) C-2, Rr.
16 Nentori 175, tel./fax 472 47, csdcshk@icc-al.org.
Contact: Zamira Poda.
COSPE Shkoder E/F-2, Rr. Branko Kadia 57, tel. 068
203 63 19, cospescu@icc-al.org, www.cospe.it. Rural
development projects. Contact: Rozeta Gradeci.
Economic Relief Agency Rr. D. Borii, 1156, tel. 411
47. Contact: Ali Laej.
European Childrens Trust (ECT) E-2, Rr. Ndre Mjeda,
tel. 417 27. Contact: Alma Guli.
FLAG, tel. 27 02 42, flag@icc-al.org. Contact: Alba
Dakoli-Wilson.
Global Environment Facility (GEF) C/D-3, Shkodra
prefecture, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel./fax 516 97, tel. 069 208
50 90, a_shimaj@yahoo.com, www.gefweb.org. Runs the
Integrated Ecosystem Management Project for Lake Shkodra.
Contact: Agim Shimaj.
GTZ C-2, Rr. 16 Nntori, tel./fax 489 14, gtz_shkodra@
yahoo.com, www.wiram.com, www.gtz.de. German
Technical Cooperation; contact Ismail Beka, Edlira Kruja for the
Promotion of Economy and Job Incitement in Northern Albania
(gtz_shkodra@yahoo.com); Shpetim Quku for the Cross-Bound-
ary Spatial Planning in the Lake Scutari Region, (gtz.progecon@
icc-al.org, quku_tim@yahoo.com) and Roland Ilia for Promotion
of Private Business through Vocational Trainings (vtgtz@hot-
mail.com). Tirana office: Rr. Themistokli Germenji, P.1, Ap.3, tel.
(04) 25 17 92 / 069 202 91 17, ismail.beka@gtz.de.
Hapa te Lehte Womens Center E/F-2, Rr. Branko Ka-
dia 57, tel. 440 22, qendragruashkoder@yahoo.com. The
Light Steps centre organises social activities, language and
professional courses for women. Contact: Alketa Leskaj.
Institute for Democracy and Mediation (IDM)
Rr. Elbasanit 101, Tirana, tel. 34 77 00, fax 34 04 84,
nevidm@san.com.al. Contact: Nevila Sokoli-Xhind.
KfW Entwicklungsbank Rr. Themistokli Germenji,
pall. 7, ap. 11, Tirana, tel. 23 41 77, fax 23 38 79, kfw.
albania@interalb.net, www.kf w-entwicklungsbank.
de. Feasibility study for water and wastewater systems in
Shkodra. Contact: Piro Trebicka.
Malteser E-1, Rr. Ludovik Saraci 6, tel. 504 47/069
208 02 07, fax 504 46, info@mnsh.org, www.mnsh.org.
Contact: Maranaj Marku.
MESHBUSH E-1, Rr. Daniel Matlia, tel. 443 85, filipgu-
raziu@hotmail.com. Contact: Fillip Guraziu.
Norwegian Aid, www.nn.no. Runs a social centre for
women and children, and has humanitarian transports and
projects to fight trafficking.
OCSE E-1, Rr. 13 Dhjetori 150, tel. 418 42, post.alba-
nia@osce.org, www.osce.org. Organization for Securi ty
and Co-operation in Europe. Contact: Antoine Roset.
OXFAM Rr. Rifat Muhja 66, tel. 068 202 78 09, www.
oxfam.org. Rural development projects. Contact: Terezina
Hila.
Peace and Justice Center Rr. Hysej 7/1, tel. 430 01,
p&dshkod@albnet.net. Contact: Luigj Mila.
Red Cross Shkodra Rr. A. Ramadani 3, tel. 430 55,
fax 421 11. Contact: Andi Ceka.
Regional Environmental Center (REC) B-3, L.Q.
Satfa, Rr. Vasil Shanto 21, tel./fax 472 03, recshkodra@
albania.rec.org. Contact: Djana Bejko.
SCD/InterCooperation Rr. Bashkimi 83, tel. 41
75/069 217 26 58, valbonakarakaci@yahoo.co.uk.
Program for local development and decentralization in the
Shkodra region. Contact: Valbona Karakai or Pascal Arnold
(parnold@intercooperation.ch).
Teuleda Rr. Rifat Muhja 66, tel. 487 02, fax 415 21,
teuleda@albnet.net, www.teuleda.org.al. Local economic
development agency. Contact: Ridvan Troshani.
The Door Rr. Vasil Shanto, tel. 437 29, thedoor@icc-
al.org. Contact: Kastriot Faci.
UCODEP E/F-2, Rr. Branko Kadia 57, tel. 068 203 63
19/+389 2 323 90 10, seenetmk@mt.net.mk, www.
ucodep.org. The Italian NGO UCODEP (Unity and Coopera-
tion for the Development of People) is present in Shkodra.
Contact: Michele Schivo, Rozeta Gradeci.
UNDP/SSSR D-2, Shkodra prefecture, Rr. 13 Dhjetori,
tel. 068 205 36 82, salwc.shkoder@icc-al.org. Projects
to sustain the reform of the security forces. Contact: Simon
Prendi.
Urban Institute (LGDA USAID) Rr. Ismail Qemali,
P. 2K, Ap. 4/1, Tirana, tel. 485 27/ 24 85 28, nkoka@
lgda-al.org. Contact: Barry Reed.
Municipality
Customs Directorate Lagjia Dobrac, tel. 402 44.
Hospitals Directorate Rr. Marsel Kashen, tel. 472 89,
sr_sh@hotmail.com.
Imports and Taxes Branch B-3, Sheshi 2 Prilli,
tel./fax 435 44.
Primary Health Directorate C-1, Rr. Bujar Bishanaku,
tel. 465 95.
Public Health Directorate C-2, Rr. 16 Nentori, tel.
425 09, dshpsh@yahoo.it.
Regional Cultural Monuments Directorate C-2,
Lagjia Vasil Shanto, tel. 434 09. Haircuts
Carpets and byrek for sale
44
Shkodra In Your Pocket
DIRECTORY
This street register lists all the streets (Rruga, or Rr.) and
squares (Sheshi) in central Shkodra.
During the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia in 1968,
the locals went around town removing all the street
names, causing great confusion among the Russians
who got compl etel y l ost i n the maze of namel ess
streets. Good news for revolutionaries (and bad news
for foreigners): Shkodra hardly has any signs, let alone
generally acknowledged street names to begin with. Some
streets are known under several names, and weve tried
to keep the confusion to a minimum by listing some of
the old names here too. Dont expect any of the locals
to recognise any of these street names or even where
they are on the map Albanian geography works in a
completely different way, and youll probably be directed
to opposite Gazmends caf in the street where the police
station used to be.
The green line on the map is the city bus route; the red
line is the bus route to Shiroke and Zogaj.
Street register
11 Janari D-2/3
13 Dhjetori D-1/2/3, E-1
16 Nentori C/D-2
7 Shkurti C/D-1
A. Ballaci D/E-1
A. Spahia F-4
Ali Kelmendi A-3/4, B-2/3
Ali Lacej C-4
Avni Rrustemi A-3
Bajram Curri E-1/2, F-1
Bep Tusha F-4
Beqir Hebovija A-3
Branko Kadia E-1/2
Bujar Bishanaku B/C-1
Cajupi (= 16 Nentori) C/D-2
Cen Broja B-3
Clirimi D-1
Daniel Matila E-1
Daut Borici C-3/4
Don Bosko D-3/4
e Pazarit te vjeter G/H-5
e Qafes G/H-6
Esat Gj yli B-4
Esat Gj yli B-4
Frederik Shiroka F-1
H. Uruci A-1/2
Isuf Sokoli A-2/3
Jordan Misja E-2
Jorgji Karamitri C-3
Justin Godard F-3/4
K. Taipi A-1
Kongresi i Lushnjes D/E-4
Leke Dugagjini B-2, C-1
Lidhja e Prizrenit B-2/3
Luigj Gurakuqi E-1/2, F-1
M. Gjollesha D-1/2
M. Lohja F-4
M. Luli A-2, B-1
Marin Barleti D-2, E/F-3, F-4
Marsel Kashen K-2
Marubi E-2
Mehmet Pash Plaku
(= Alqi Kondi) H/J-4
Muhamet Binoshi F-1
Ndoc Mazi F-3/4
Ndre Mjeda E-2
Oso Kuka C-1/2
Pashko Vasa E-3/4
Qazim Cirilami A/B-3
Qazim Llazani B-2/3
Revolucioni Antikomunist
Hungarez 1956 (Stacionit te
Trenit) K-4
Shejnaze Juka E/F-2
Sheshi 2 Prilli C-2
Sheshi 5 Heronj te D-1/2
Sheshi i Perashit D-4
Sheshi i Rusit J-2
Sheshi L. Gurakuqi D-2
Sheshi ne hyrje te Xhabijeve
H-4
Sheshi Parruce B/C-3
Sheshi te Dugaj t e Reje E-1
Sheshi te Sahati J-3
Sheshi te Spitali J-3
Shyqyri Bushati C-4
Skenderbeg D-4, E/F-3, F-2
Stacionit te Trenit K-4
V.Kadia D/E-1
Vasil Shanto C-2
Z. Rrepishti A-1
Zef Jubani E-4
Zogu I A-4, B-3/4
Zyhdi Lahi A-3
Regional Employment Office A-4, Rr. Zogu i I, near
Ndre Mjeda school, tel. 421 13.
Shkodra Municipality C/D-3, Rr. 13 Dhjetori 1, tel./
fax 437 20, foreignrelat@albnet.net, www.shkodra.gov.
al. Shkodras mayor is Mr. Artan Haxhi.
Shkodra Region C/D-3, Rr. 13 Dhjetori, tel./fax 427
41, qarkushkoder@yahoo.com.
Shkodra Region Prefecture C/D-3, Rr. 13 Dhjetori,
tel./fax 427 05.
Religious institutions
Muslim community office, tel. 420 81.
Shkodra Archbishopric, tel. 428 01.
Utilities
Agjensia e Ujit te Bazenit Drin-Bune Instituti i Misrit
dhe Orizit. Water suppl y.
Alb Telecom D-2, Rr. Marin Barleti, tel. 437 71. Fixed
phones.
KESH Rr. Ruzhdi Tyli, tel. 472 00. Electricity and black-
outs.
Tirana Ministries
Minister of State Blv. Deshmort e Kombit, tel.
(04)23 08 46.
Ministry of Agriculture and Food Blv. Dshmort e
Kombit, tel. (04)23 24 88, fax (04)22 79 24.
Ministry of Defence Blv. Dshmort e Kombit, tel.
(04)22 21 03/22 68 65, fax (04)22 84 81.
Ministry of Economy and Privatization Blv. Zhan
DArk, tel. (04)22 84 42, fax (04)22 26 55.
Ministry of Education and Science Rr. e Durrsit
23, tel. (04)22 63 07, fax (04)23 20 02.
Ministry of Enviroment Rr. Durrsit, tel. (04)27 06
07, fax (04)27 06 27.
Ministry of Finance Blv. Dshmort e Kombit, tel.
(04)22 84 94/22 84 37, fax (04)22 84 05, secretary.
minister@minfin.gov.al.
Ministry of Foreign Affairs Blv. Zhan DArk 6, tel. 36
21 70/36 20 55, fax (04)23 58 99, dshtypi@abissnet.
net.
Ministry of Health Blv. Bajram Curri, across from
the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, tel. 36 29 37, fax 36
25 54.
Ministry of Industry and Energy Blv. Dshmort e
Kombit, tel. (04)22 76 17, fax (04)23 40 52.
Ministry of Integration Blv. Dshmort e Kombit, tel.
(04)22 83 58, fax (04)25 62 67.
Ministry of Justice Blv. Zogu I, tel. (04)23 27 04, fax
(04)22 31 27.
Ministry of Labor and Social Affairs Rr. Kavajs, tel.
(04)22 34 29, cecom@interalb.net.
Ministry of Local Goverment Blv. Dshmort e Kom-
bit, tel. (04)23 35 44, fax (04)23 35 45.
Ministry of Public Order Blv. Dshmort e Kombit,
tel. (04)22 68 01, fax 36 36 07.
Ministry of Tourism, Culture,Youth and Sports
Blv. Dshmort e Kombit, tel. (04)22 32 06/23 24
88, fax (04)22 36 88, kabkult@mkrs.gov.al, www.
mkrs.gov.al.
Ministry of Transport and Public Works Rr. A. Top-
tani, tel. (04)22 57 42, mulitar@albvaniaonline.net.
Municipality of Tirana Blv. Dshmort e Kombit,
tel. (04)22 66 29/22 91 00, fax (04)22 84 30, www.
tirana.gov.al.
Prime Ministers Office Blv. Dshmort e Kombit, tel.
(04)25 65 61, ext. 440/25 04 74, fax (04)23 48 18.
A

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Albania
Scale 1:1,880,000
0 25km 50km
Photo removed to make this download version
of Shkodra In Your Pocket lighter;
refer to a print version, available locall y, for all photos.
50
Shkodra In Your Pocket
INDEX
5 Herontje e Vigut 24
Al-Zamil Mosque 23
Amerika 17
Argent 17
Arlind 17
Bazaar 22
Brindi 17
California 17
Cathedral of the Nativity 23
Catholic Cathedral 23
Church of Our Lady
of Shkodra 23
Cocja 18
Colosseo 16
Country Club 18
Drishti Castle 29
English Tower 22
Enigma 21
Era 19
Extasy Club 21
Favorit 17
Franciscan church 23
Gjuhadol & Sarreq districts 22
Hapa te Lehte 17, 18
Historical Museum 22
Ideal 16
Isa Boletini 24
Jadore 21
Kaduku 16
Kolping 16
L. Gurakuqi Park 23
Lake Koman Ferry 29
Lead Mosque 23
Legjenda 21
Luigj Gurakuqi 24
Lulishtja e Parruces Park 23
Marku 17, 20
Medieval Sarda 29
Mes Bridge 29
Millennium 19
Mondial 16, 19
Muzeu 19
Obelisk Heronj te e
Demokracise 24
Orient 21
Palma 19
Panorama 20
Parku 17
Piazza Park 20
Rozafa 17
Rozafa Citadel restaurant 20
Shqiponja 21
Taverna Shkodrane 20
Tourist Information Centre 22
Tradita G&T 18
Vivaldi 18
Vllaznia 19

lncluding articlcs writtcn by lcading cxpcrts and intcrvicws

with kcy playcrs in Albania`s burgconing cconomy, thc
Albania 8usincss Cuidc offcrs forcign potcntial invcstors
insight into thc workings of Albania, achicvcmcnts
rcachcd, rcforms in progrcss, promiscs madc, and
cxposcs thc invcstmcnt opportunitics that arc availablc in
a varicty of cconomic scctors.
Thc Albania 8usincss Cuidc is publishcd by thc tcam that
brought you Tirana ln our Pockct, in coopcration with
Tirana`s Corporatc Training and Entcrprisc Managcmcnt
lnstitutc, btrccht bnivcrsity in thc Ncthcrlands, Tirana
Municipality`s bnit for Economic Dcvclopmcnt and CTZ.
Thc Albania 8usincss Cuidc is for salc in Tirana`s lcading
hotcls and bookshops. \isit www.SEEbusincssguidcs.com
or contact albaniaSEEbusincssguidcs.com for morc
information.
18 ALBANI A BUSI NESS GUI DE 2006/ 2007 ALBANI A BUSI NESS GUI DE 2006/ 2007 19
Figure 5: Employment per sector, 2004
Apart fromconstruction, the industrial sector
in Albania is in a very difcult transition period.
Until the mid-1990s all industrial plants were
state-owned. Te privatisation process only
really started afer 1995, and afer a very difcult
period the industry grew. Its only in the past
six years that the last big industrial companies
were privatised. A modernised industrial sector
could be very positive for the overall well-being
of the Albanian economy. Imports of daily-use
goods and fast moving consumer goods are still
exceeding total imports. With the current rise of
the food processing industry and the produc-
tion of daily-use goods, there is now hope for
a healthier international trade balance. While
shopping in Albanias many small groceries, Al-
banians are increasingly able to purchase quality
dairy products, sweets and drinks that are made
in Albania.
Structure of the economy, % of GDP, 2003
22%
12%
8%
20%
8%
3%
24%
3%
Agriculture, forestry, fishery Industry Construction Trade, hotels, restaurants Transport Post, communication Other services FISIM
Figure 6: Structure of the economy,
% of GDP, 2003
When it comes to energy provision, its es-
sential to note that the oil industry and mining
activities are on a relatively low level. Although
there is an oil feld near the city of Fier, the pro-
duction of oil is not sufcient to meet the demand
which means that energy imports are increasing.
Te energy supply in Albania is an important
obstacle for the industrial sector to grow faster.
Te state-owned electricity company, KESH, is
facing difculties supplying the country with the
electricity needed. Albania is totally dependent on
hydro-power for generating electricity. In periods
of drought, this means there are power cuts
during daytime. Te bad state of the network of
transmission lines in Albania is the second prob-
lem. It is calculated that around 5%of the total
energy supply leaks fromthe transmission lines
before reaching the consumers and industry.
In an article in Foreign Afairs, Prime Min-
ister Berisha states that the present government
is making work of energy, and there is certainly
hope. Although generating hydro-power energy
is difcult in periods of drought, the country
still has enough places where new hydro-power
plants can be situated. In order to be not too
dependent on one formof energy, a new thermal
energy plant is being constructed near Fier, near
the oil felds.
So the future looks bright although for the
next two years its expected that electricity will
remain problematic. On the longer term, the
Albanian governments policy is directed to the
energy resources in neighbouring Kosovo. Infra-
structure Minister Basha: Kosovo is regarded
as an important regional energy hub, which
is confrmed by a recent World Bank study.
Employment per sector, 2004
19%
58%
23%
Public sector
Private sector, agriculture
Private sector, non-agriculture
Foreign direct investments
Foreign Direct Investments (FDIs) were non-existent in Albania before 1991. Afer that year,
investments fromabroad grew, but very slowly. In the last six years there has been an increase of
direct investments fromabroad. Te main cause is the privatisation of the telecommunication
companies and the issuing of new licenses for mobile providers such as Vodafone, attracting
capital fromabroad. Also the privatisation of some other large state companies in the mining
sector attracted foreign investments. With the future privatisation of the electricity company
KESH, more investments are expected.
Data fromINSTAT, Albanias statistical ofce, show that Greece and Italy are by far the most
important investors in Albania. According to World Bank fgures, Italian companies tend to
invest in the centre of the country and near the coast line, in the near proximity of Italy. Tese
companies are mainly small and medium-sized enterprises; textile and footwear industries and
the agro-food industry. Te main advantage for these companies is the wage level in Albania,
which is about one tenth of that in Italy. Greek investments tend to concentrate in the south,
around the cities of Saranda, Gjirokaster and Vlore. Tese investments are almost all in the trad-
ing sector.
Albanias economic policy aims to attract more investors fromother countries, and Albania
is also working with neighbouring countries on a regional free trade agreement. Te Foreign
Investment Promotion Agency of the Albanian Ministry of Economic Afairs aims to attract
more Foreign Direct Investors. Apart fromthis agency, several foreign agencies and embassies
are active in attracting more foreign investors to Albania, and investment subsidies are available
at a range of EU embassies. Te larger companies have united themselves in associations such as
the American Chamber of Commerce.
A special sector in the case of FDI is tourism. Te Albanian government has special incentive
packages for the companies willing to invest in this sector.
Regarding the political status of Kosovo this is
an interesting development.
As for the rest of the economy, the services
sector is growing, but not with the high growth
fgures of the other sectors.
Infrastructure
For years the state of infrastructure has been an
obstacle for economic growth in Albania. Good
connections between large cities were lacking,
the harbours needed to be modernised and
the international airport was in a deplorable
state. But in recent years enormous eforts have
been made to modernise the seaports and the
airport.
A consortiumof three companies, Hochtief
Germany, DEG and the Albanian-American
Enterprise fund, has been given a twenty-year
concession to operate the countrys only com-
mercial airport under the name Tirana Airport
Partners. Part of the concession is the moderni-
sation of the airport with the building of a brand
new terminal building. Furthermore a new road
is being built between the centre of Tirana and
the airport which will replace the current road,
which is in a very bad state and makes a hefy
detour.
Current investment programmes in infra-
structure are aimed to improve networks. Te
north-south and an east-west road corridors are
being connected to the two important harbours
of Drres and Vlora. Tese corridors will
provide improved infrastructure for the country,
as well as fnally ofering decent access to the
neighbouring regions in Montenegro, Kosovo,
Macedonia and Greece. Tese infrastructural
projects are partly fnanced by donors such as
the European Union, and by loans of the World
Bank.
One thing is clear at the moment: a lot of
work needs to be done. Te positive point is that
the present Albanian government named the
upgrade of infrastructure as one of its priorities,
and the evidence along the roads seems to prove
that they mean it.
Poverty
Although considerable progress has been made
in most sectors of the economy, poverty is
widespread in the country. Te causes of the
poverty situation are comparable to those in
developing countries, and the gap between rich
and poor is only getting wider. In the northern
and southern parts of the country the problems
are most severe. High levels of unemployment
are an important cause of the poverty situation
in these regions.
Albania, in a further stage to
maturity
Richard Gibson, business editor of the Tirana
Times, describes the economic climate in Tirana
as follows: Te country has lost its virginity, I
would say the country is in the adolescent phase
at the moment.
Whether one agrees with this statement or
not, clear is that the economy is in development.
Predicting the future is impossible, but making
a prognosis is possible. It is clear that in some
sectors growth is high, with good prospects. In
other sectors such as agriculture, at the moment
the economic output is very low. In these sec-
tors the potential however is very high. With
the signing of the Stabilisation and Association
Agreement between the EU and Albania a new
phase of European Integration has started for
Albania. Tis does not mean that it will be more
easy for Albania to achieve higher growth levels
- more integration entails more control of the
EU on Albanian afairs. On an economic level
this will mean that products and services have
to be at an appropriate level of quality in order
to be eligible for exports. On a political and
FDI by sector, 2001
17%
1%
6%
67%
5% 4%
Industry
Agriculture
Services
Trade
Construction
Transport
E C O N O MY A N D B U S I N E S S E N V I R O N ME N T > E C O N O MY E C O N O MY A N D B U S I N E S S E N V I R O N ME N T > E C O N O MY
View over Tirana
governmental level this will lead to an increasing
level of democratisation, and to the strengthen-
ing of law enforcing institutions.
Although the growth fgures for the country are
promising, poverty is still a widespread phe-
nomenon in Albania. Economic growth tends to
concentrate in the urban areas of Tirana, and some
coastal cities, so especially rural areas face problems
related to poverty. But also the cities in the north and
face economic problems as a decline of employ-
ment and closure of state-owned plants. Tere is
a growing gap between the rich and the poor. Te
gap is growing, and studies of the World Bank
indicate that a growing group of people does not get
sufcient education. NGOs, the World Bank, IMF
and EUare working for better access for all people
to education,which is necessary to spread economic
success across the whole country.
Tiranas government buildings by night
I n v e s t i n g i n Al b a n i a Do i n g b u s i n e s s Ke y s e c t o r s
ALBANI A
BUSINESS
G U I D E
Issue 1 2006/2007 www.SEEbusinessguides.com 15 - $18 - 1850 lek
Tirana Municipality
City Economic
Development Unit
Photo removed to make this download version
of Shkodra In Your Pocket lighter;
refer to a print version, available locall y, for all photos.