Automotive Power Train System

Automotive Clutches

Drive Train Arrangements:

There are four drive train arrangements, figure 4.1. These are:

1. Front – engine rear – wheel drive

2. Front – engine front – wheel drive
3. Rear – engine rear- wheel drive
4. Four – wheel drive

The 1st and 2nd ones are the basic drive train arrangements.

Figure 4.1 drive train arrangements

Purpose of the Clutch

The clutch is used on cars with Transmissions that are shifted by hand. It allows the driver to
couple the engine to, or uncouple the engine from the Transmission.
The clutch is linked to the clutch pedal in three ways:
 Mechanical
 Hydraulic and
 Pneumatic

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Operation of the Clutch:

Basically, the clutch consists of three parts. These are:

1. Engine flywheel
2. Friction disc and
3. Pressure plate

When the engine is rotating, the flywheel is also rotating. The pressure plate is attached to the
flywheel so the pressure plate also rotates. The friction disc is located between the two. When
the driver pushes down on the clutch pedal, the clutch will be released. This forces the pressure
plate to move away from the friction disc. This creates air gap between the flywheel and the
friction disc, and between the friction disc and the pressure plate. Thus, no power can be
transmitted through the clutch.

When the driver releases the clutch pedal, power can flow through the clutch. Springs in the
clutch force the pressure plate against the friction disc. This action clamps the friction disc
tightly between the flywheel and the pressure plate. Now, the pressure plate and friction disc
rotate with the flywheel. The friction disc is assembled on a splined shaft that carries the rotary
motion to the Transmission. This shaft is called the clutch shaft or Transmission input shaft.

Clutch Construction:

As to the type of spring used, clutches could be either of the coil – spring type or of the
diaphragm – spring type, figure 4.2.

The difference between them is in the type of spring used.

Figure 4.2 Types of clutch (a) coil – spring type (b) diaphragm – spring type.

Coil – Spring Clutch:

Coil spring clutch has a series of coil springs set in a circle, figure 4.3. The friction disc (or
driven plate or clutch disc) has splines in its hub that match the splines on the input shaft. These
splines consist of two sets of teeth. The internal teeth in the hub of the friction disc match the

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external teeth on the shaft. When the friction disc is driven, it turns the Transmission input shaft,
which rides in a pilot bearing or bushing in the end of the crankshaft.

Figure 4.3 Coil spring type clutch

The clutch also has a pressure – plate and cover assembly, which includes a series of coil springs
(3,6,9). The cover is bolted to the engine flywheel. The springs provide the force to hold the
friction disc against the flywheel. Then, when the flywheel turns, the pressure plate and the
friction disc also turn. However, when the clutch is disengaged, the spring force is relieved so
that the friction disc and the flywheel can rotate separately.

Operation of Coil – Spring Clutch:

The springs are held between the clutch cover and the pressure plate, figure 4.4. In the engaged
position, the springs are clamping the friction disc (driven plate) tightly between the flywheel
and the pressure plate. This forces the friction disc to rotate with the flywheel.

When the driver operates the clutch pedal to disengage the clutch, the linkage from the pedal
forces the release bearing (or throw out bearing) inward. As the release bearing moves in, it
pushes against the inner ends of three release levers (or release fingers). The release levers are
pivoted on pins and eye bolts. When the inner ends of the release levers are pushed in by the
release bearing the outer ends are moved out.

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Figure 4.4 operation of coil type clutch

This motion is carried by struts to the pressure plate. Therefore, the pressure plate is moved out
and the springs are compressed. With the spring force off the friction disc, a small air space
appears between the disc and the flywheel, and between the other side of the disc and the
pressure plate. Now the clutch is disengaged. The flywheel can rotate without transmitting
power through the friction disc.

To engage the clutch, release the clutch pedal. This removes the linkage force from the release
bearing. The springs push the pressure plate in towards the flywheel. The friction disc is again
clamped tightly between the flywheel and the pressure plate. The friction disc must again rotate
with the flywheel.

In this system, there must be some free play in the clutch linkage. The clutch pedal must move
some distance (about 25mm, depending on the manufacturer‟s specification) before all the free
play is taken up. Only then does the release bearing come into contact with the release levers.
Without this free play, the release bearing would be riding on the ends of the release levers. This
would cause rapid wear of the bearing and release levers.

Diaphragm – Spring Clutch:

It has a diaphragm spring that supplies the force to hold the friction disc against the flywheel.
The diaphragm spring also acts as the release lever to take up the spring force when the clutch is
disengaged.

The diaphragm spring has a series of tapering fingers pointing inward toward the center of the
clutch.

When the throw out bearing moves in against the ends of the fingers, the entire diaphragm is
forced against a pivot ring, causing the diaphragm to dish inward. This moves the pressure plate
away from the friction disc, figure 4.5.

When the throw out bearing is moved inward against the spring fingers, the spring is forced to
pivot about the inner pivot ring, dishing in the opposite direction. The outer circumference of the
spring now lift the pressure plate away through a series of retracting springs placed about the
outer circumference of the pressure plate.

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Figure 4.5 diaphragm type clutches

Multi – Disc Clutches:

Sometimes a clutch with greater holding power is required. This may be because more power
must go through the clutch but size is limited. Therefore, a clutch with a larger diameter cannot
be installed. Then a clutch with two or more friction discs may be used.
As an example we can see a coil – spring clutch, which has two friction discs separated by an
intermediate, or center, driver plate. The added pressure plate and friction disc give the double
disc clutch greater holding power. This makes it suitable for use with higher – output engines.
Double – disc clutches are widely used in medium and heavy trucks.

Figure 4.6 double disc coil type clutch Figure 4.7 double disc diaphragm type clutch

Use of the second friction disc adds clutch – plate area, thereby providing greater torque –
carrying capacity. When the clutch is engaged, each friction disc transmits half of the flywheel

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torque to the clutch shaft. These clutches are operated and work in the same way as single –
disc coil – spring clutches. There are coil spring, figure 4.6 and diaphragm spring, figure
4.7.double disc clutches.
Components of Clutch Mechanism

Flywheel:

The flywheel forms a base to which the entire clutch assembly is attached. In addition, it
provides momentum to smooth out engine operation, and as a base for the starter ring gear.

The flywheel, attached to the engine crank – shaft, is the drive member of the clutch. The clutch
side of the flywheel is machined smooth to provide a friction surface for the clutch disc. Tapped
holes in the flywheel provide a means of attaching the clutch assembly. A ball bearing or a
bronze bushing, called a pilot bearing, is placed in a drilled hole in the center of the flywheel.
Sometimes this hole is actually in the end of the crankshaft. The pilot bearing is used to support
the end of the Transmission clutch or input shaft. It may be lubricated during manufacture, or, if
not, it must be lubricated before installation.

The Clutch Disc (figure 4.8):

When the clutch is engaged, the clutch disc is forced to revolve as a unit with the flywheel and
pressure – plate assembly. All the power developed by the engine is transmitted through the
clutch disc to the Transmission input shaft. The power is picked up by the lined faces of the
clutch disc and transmitted through the steel hub, which is splined to the Transmission input
shaft.

Figure 4.8 parts of clutch disc

The clutch – disc facings are of two main types: moulded and woven. Their composition is
similar to that of brake lining.

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The facing surfaces must be smooth, and the assembly uniform in thickness. The facings must
be kept free of even a trace of grease or oil or a “grabbing” or chattering clutch could result.

The linings or facings are riveted or bonded to a disc, which includes a cushioning device and a
torsional vibration – dampening unit.

The Cushioning Device:

Between the two faces, is necessary to permit smooth engagement of the clutch and eliminate
clutch chatter. The cushioning effect is produced by splitting and cupping the outer edges of the
disc. As the clutch is engaged, the cupped segments act as a spring – like cushion.

A Torsional Device:

Is located near the center of the hub. This device absorbs the torsional vibrations of the
crankshaft and prevents such vibrations from reaching the Transmission.

The inner hub and outer disc are fastened together in such a manner as to allow a certain amount
of radial movement. This radial movement is limited by stop pins. The drive between the outer
disc and inner hub is transferred through stiff coil springs. These coil springs absorb the
torsional thrust, act as a dampening device, and transmit the thrust to the inner hub. The
torsional vibration is controlled by a moulded friction washer placed between the inner hub and
the outer disc.

The center of the hub is fitted with splines to allow the disc to both slide along and transmit the
power to the Transmission input shaft.

Pressure Plate:

The pressure plate is usually made of cast iron and is slightly larger in diameter than the clutch
disc. The side of the pressure plate which faces the clutch disc and presses it against the
flywheel is machined smooth. The other side has various shapes to which the pressure springs
and release levers may be attached.

Heat checks, created by the heat produced from a slipping clutch, and scores, caused by worn
clutch facings, are the enemies of the pressure plate. Pressure plates may be re-machined smooth
to remove scores and surface heat checks.

Pressure – Plate Assembly:

The pressure – plate assembly includes the pressure plate itself, a series of coil springs or a
diaphragm, a cover, and a series of release levers or fingers. During manufacture, the pressure –
plate assembly and the flywheel are usually balanced. After balancing they are marked so that
the balance may be maintained.

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There are two types of clutch pressure – plate assemblies used in automobiles, the coil pressure
– spring type and the diaphragm – spring type.

When the clutch is engaged, the pressure coil springs or the diaphragm spring push the pressure
plate forward, forcing the clutch disc firmly against the flywheel. Consequently, these springs
must be strong enough to hold the pressure disc against the flywheel and transmit the engine
power at speeds upto 5000 r/min. The pressure plate requires over 7000 kPa of pressure to hold
the clutch disc against the flywheel. Insufficient pressure in these springs would not be picked
up by the clutch and carried to the Transmission. It would also cause a slipping clutch, which
could overheat, resulting in possible failure.

Coil Pressure – Spring Type pressure – plate

The coil pressure – spring type of pressure – plate assembly is made up of coil springs, a
pressure plate, release levers, and a cover, figure 4.9. These parts are assembled inside the cover,
and the cover, in turn, is attached by bolts to the flywheel. The assembly rotates with the
flywheel.

Figure 4.9 Coil Spring Type pressure – plate

Most coil – spring pressure plates use several coil springs (3,6,9), which are spaced around the
pressure plate and inside the cover. When the cover is bolted to the flywheel, these springs are
compressed and exert pressure between the pressure plate and the cover.

The pressure springs must be of equal length and strength. Any deviation in length or strength
will make it difficult for the clutch disc to seat evenly between the flywheel and the pressure
plate. This results in lower pressure at some point on the friction surface, and the possibility of
slippage.

To disconnect the Transmission from the engine it is necessary to move the clutch disc away
from the flywheel. To accomplish this, it is necessary to relieve the pressure on the pressure
plate so that the clutch disc no longer revolves with the flywheel. In doing so, it pushes on the
inner ends of three clutch release levers, or fingers, that are equally spaced around the center of

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the pressure – plate assembly. Through the leverage action, the outer ends of these release levers
pull back the pressure plate from the clutch disc. This compresses the springs in the pressure
plate thereby relieves the pressure which is forcing the clutch disc against the flywheel. This
allows the clutch disc to spin freely without transmitting any power from the engine; it is then
disengaged. In order to overcome the great pressure of the pressure – plate springs, the fulcrum
of the pressure – plate springs, the fulcrum of the clutch release levers is at a point which would
produce a six – to – one ratio. Therefore the inner end of the lever must be moved 12mm to pull
back the pressure plate 2mm. It is of the utmost importance that these levers be adjusted
properly. Each must have the same amount of clearance and movement to ensure that the
pressure plate remains parallel to the flywheel at all times.

Diaphragm – Spring Type pressure – plate

The diaphragm – type of clutch incorporates a diaphragm spring that not only provides the spring
pressure required to hold the clutch disc against the flywheel, but also acts as the release lever to
release the spring pressure when the clutch is disengaged, figure 4.10. The diaphragm spring is a
solid ring on the outer diameter which has a series of tapered fingers pointed inward toward the
center of the clutch. In the engaged position, the diaphragm spring is slightly dished, with the
tapered fingers pointed away from the flywheel. In the disengaged position, the diaphragm
spring is dished in the opposite direction. This flexing action is similar to the action of an oilcan
when the bottom is depressed. Since the diaphragm is pivoted on pivot rings near the outer
circumference, it acts as a first – class lever. In the engaged position, the dished design of the
spring places pressure around the entire circumference of the pressure plate. This pressure is
sufficient to transmit the driving torque of the engine.

Figure 4.10 Diaphragm – spring

In the disengaged position, the throwout bearing is moved inward against the spring fingers,
figure 4.11. The diaphragm spring is forced to pivot around the inner pivot ring, causing the
plate to dish in the opposite direction. The outer circumference of the diaphragm spring now
lifts the pressure plate away by means of a series of retracting springs which are located around
the circumference of the pressure plate. This allows the clutch disc to spin freely between the

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flywheel and the pressure plate, breaking the connection between the engine and the
Transmission.

Figure 4.11 operation of Diaphragm – Spring Type Clutch

Release Bearing

A ball thrust bearing called a clutch release or throwout bearing is pressed on the release –
bearing sleeve, or collar, figure 4.12. This allows the inner race to remain stationary white the
outer race can revolve when it makes contact with the rotating release fingers which are fastened
to the clutch cover. This type of bearing is filled with grease at the factory and ordinarily need
not be serviced during its normal life.

Figure 4.12 Release Bearing

Some vehicles use a graphite or carbon ring, or collar, instead of a thrust ball – type bearing.
This ring remains stationary on the release sleeve; the clutch fingers rotate against the ring.

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Ordinarily clutch release bearings cause little trouble, unless the driver has the bad habit of
“riding the clutch pedal.” Should the driver ride with his foot resting on the clutch pedal, this
force may be sufficient to depress the pedal far enough to cause continuous rotation of the
release bearing. Since this bearing will become over – heated, lose its lubricant, and
consequently be damaged; and a carbon or graphite bearing will wear down rapidly.

The release bearing and sleeve are free to slide forward and backward on an extension which is
part of the front – Transmission bearing retainer. The release bearing is moved by the inner end
of the clutch throwout fork. This fork is usually pivoted on a ball – head stud attached to the
clutch housing. A return spring pulls the fork back toward the Transmission when the clutch is
released. The outer end of the clutch fork is attached to the clutch – pedal linkage. When the
outer end of the fork is moved rearward, the inner end pushes the release bearing against the
fingers to disengage the clutch.

Clutch Housing and Clutch Shaft:

A clutch housing, made of cast iron or aluminium, bolts onto the engine. This clutch housing
surrounds the clutch assembly and flywheel. Some clutch housings are an integral part of the
Transmission case. Some housings are designed with openings to allow for heat dissipation,
while others have light metal covers, which may be removed to facilitate the removal of the
clutch mechanism.
The Transmission input shaft or clutch shaft passes through the clutch housing and the clutch
mechanism. The front or splined end of this shaft is supported in the clutch pilot bearing. The
clutch – disc hub rides on the splines. The power from the engine is transmitted through the
clutch disc to the hub to the clutch shaft to the Transmission clutch gear.

Clutch Pedal and Linkage Methods of Connecting:

The clutch pedal may be mounted beneath the toe – board or hung from brackets mounted
between the firewall and the dashboard. Three principal methods are used to connect the pedal
to the clutch fork, the cable, rod and the hydraulic method.

The rod method uses a system of links, levers, and rods, figure 4.13. When the clutch pedal is
depressed, the force is increased by the mechanical advantage of the linkage and is transmitted to
the clutch fork. A means of adjusting the clutch pedal free play is included in the linkage.

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Figure 4.13 rod type clutch linkage

The cable method uses a cable to connect the pedal and the release fork, figure 4.14.

Figure 4.14 cable type clutch linkage

The hydraulic method is used on vehicles which, because of lack of space or design, require a
very complicated mechanism. The hydraulic system simplifies the job, figure 4.15.

The hydraulic – clutch principle is the same as the principle used in hydraulic – brake systems.
When the clutch pedal is depressed, it actuates a small master – cylinder piston. The pressure
created on the liquid in the cylinder is transmitted through tubing to a “slave” cylinder which is
bolted to the clutch housing near the clutch fork. A short, adjustable rod connects the slave
cylinder piston to the clutch fork. When pressure is applied to the slave cylinder, the rod
operates the clutch fork. A small reservoir attached to the clutch master cylinder stores the

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necessary hydraulic fluid. After service the system must be bled in a similar manner to the
hydraulic – brake system. Clutch – pedal free play may be altered by changing the length of the
adjustable rod between the slave cylinder and the fork.

Figure 4.15 hydraulic type clutch linkage

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Clutch Trouble Shooting

Common troubles experienced along with their causes, are explained below briefly. The
remedies have also been suggested.

1. Clutch Slip:

It is sometimes experienced that the clutch slips while in engagement. In this condition it fails to
transmit completely the engine torque. Moreover, because of slipping, a large amount of heat is
generated due to which clutch facings wear out rapidly and even burn out. The flywheel face
also wears out, there is rapid wear of pressure plate and the stiffness of the springs is also
decreased. This may be caused by any or more of the following reasons:

a. Incorrect linkage adjustment, which causes insufficient „free pedal play‟. Adjusting of
the linkage will remedy this defect.
b. Oil or grease on friction facings due to leakage from the engine crankcase or the
gearbox or to excessive lubrication of the clutch shaft and its support bearing. This
causes glazing of the friction surfaces leading to slipping. The remedy in this case is
simply to clean the components and replace the clutch facing.
c. Weak or broken clutch springs. The springs may be overheated, which will be revealed
by their blue colour. Overheating reduces the spring stiffness and makes them weak.
In this case the only alternative is to replace the springs.
d. Worn out facings, which should be replaced.

2. Clutch drag or spin:

Sometimes when the clutch is to be disengaged, it is not disengaged completely and it causes
difficulty in changing the gears. This defect is called clutch drag. Reasons for the presence of this
defect may be:

a. Excessive “free pedal play‟. This may have been caused by the driver „riding‟ the clutch
pedal. I. e., when he in the habit of keeping his foot on the clutch pedal while driving.
When the clutch drags, the first thing to be done is to check the „free pedal play‟. If
found incorrect, it should be adjusted. If this play is already correct, then the trouble may
be due to other reasons and to locate them the clutch has to be opened.
b. Oil or grease on friction facings. The remedy is to clean the facings or if excessively
damaged, to replace them.
c. Pressure plate warped or damaged. This needs replacement.
d. Clutch plate cracked or buckled. The only alternative to remedy this is the replacement
plate.
e. Clutch plate may be seized on clutch shaft splines. This may be remedied by cleaning up
the splines on the shaft and lubricating them.

3. Clutch Judder:

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Sometimes as the clutch is engaged, a vibration or Judder is produced instead of smooth gradual
engagement and the vehicle suddenly jumps forward. The possible causes are:

a. Loose or worn out clutch facings, which must be replaced.

b. Loose rivets. The whole facing should be replaced.
c. Distorted clutch plate may also be one of the reasons to cause clutch Judder. The same
has to be replaced.
d. Misalignment of the pressure plate with the flywheel. This has to be corrected. This
requires, however, special equipment.
e. Flywheel may be loose on the crankshaft flange, which may be tightened to remove the
defect.
f. Bent splined clutch shaft. If the defect is not much, it may be possible to straighten the
shaft; otherwise this has to be replaced.
g. Oil, grease or dirt on the friction surfaces causing uneven engagement. The friction
surfaces on the flywheel and the pressure plate should be cleaned and the clutch facing
replaced.

4. Clutch Rattle:

Apart from the defects explained earlier in the engagement of clutches, some peculiar noises may
be noticeable when the engine is idling. Clutch rattle is the prominent noise observed.

To locate the cause, press the clutch plate to take up only the free movement. If the rattle
disappears, it may be due to worn out or loose throwout bearing or it may be that pedal return
spring is disconnected and is loose. In the former case, the bearing has to be replaced, while in
the latter case, the spring is simply to be replaced.

If, however, the rattle continues, it may be due to damaged clutch plate in which case it has to be
replaced. The bent splined shaft may also be a source of rattle.

5. Knock:

This is observed clearly when the engine is idling and the clutch is engaged. This may be due to
worn out splines of the clutch plate hub or the clutch shaft. Such a situation would require
replacement of the defective part i.e. either the clutch plate or the clutch shaft or both. The
wearing out of the pilot bearing in the flywheel may also be a cause of knock in the clutch. The
bearing will have to be replaced in this case.

6. Pulsation of the Clutch Pedal:

This may be caused by the misalignment of the engine and the Transmission. Due to
misalignment, the clutch disc moves to and fro on the clutch shaft in each revolution and this
movement is transmitted back to the pedal. This results in rapid wear of all clutch parts. To
remedy this, the proper realignment has to be done. The pedal pulsations may also be caused by
a wobbling flywheel, mostly due to its improper mounting on the engine crankshaft, which may

15
be redone properly. If the flywheel is otherwise unbalanced, the same may be either balanced or
replaced.

Removing the Clutch Assembly from the vehicle

The removal of clutch assemblies varies with different manufacturers. Manufacturers manuals
give the procedure in detail. The general procedure is:

1. Disconnect the pedal linkage from the clutch fork

2. Remove the drive shaft
3. Remove the Transmission
4. Remove the clutch housing
5. Remove flywheel cover
6. Unbolt the clutch assembly from the flywheel
7. Remove the clutch

Disassembling the clutch mechanism

No general instructions that would apply to all types of clutches can be given. Whenever a
clutch is to be disassembled, serviced, reassembled, and adjusted, refer to the shop manual
describing these procedures.
But in general before the clutch parts are disassembled, place mating marks on the clutch cover
and pressure plate.

If the clutch cover and pressure plate are connected by means of riveting, the rivets should be
removed by drilling and punching them out. If the clutch cover and pressure plate are attached
by bolts, remove the bolts by pressing down only the clutch cover with press, figure 4.16.

Figure 4.16 pressing down only the clutch cover with press

Inspecting the clutch mechanism parts

The various clutch parts can be checked as follows after the clutch is removed from the vehicle.

Inspecting clutch units

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1. Use compressed air to blow dust out of the clutch housing.

Caution
Do not breathe the dust you blow out from the clutch housing. It may contain asbestos.
Asbestos is used in the clutch facings in many clutches. Asbestos may cause lung cancer.
You should use damp cloths to wipe out the clutch housing. After working on a clutch,
wash your hands carefully to remove any trace of dust.

2. Check for oil leakage through the engine rear main bearing oil seal and the Transmission
drive – pinion seal. If leakage is noted replace the seal.
3. Check the friction face of the flywheel for uniform appearance and for cracks, grooving,
and uneven wear. If there is uneven wear, check the flywheel runout with the dial
indicator. A warped or damaged flywheel should be replaced.
4. Check the bushing or pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft. Replace if it is worn.
Figures 4.17 and 4.18.

Figure 4.17 removing pilot bearing Figure 4.18 installing pilot bearing

5. Check the journal on the end of the Transmission input (clutch) shaft for wear. Replace
if it is worn.
6. Wipe the pressure plate face with solvent. Check the face for flatness with a straight
edge. Check the face for burned cracked, grooved and ridged areas.
7. Check the condition of the release levers or fingers. The inner ends should have a
uniform wear pattern.
8. Test the cover for flatness on a surface plate.
9. Inspect the disc for wear and damaged or loose dampening springs. Measure the rivet
head depth with depth caliper and compare with the specification. If it is below the limit,
repair or replace the disc, figure 4.19.

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Figure 4.19 Measuring the rivet head depth with depth caliper

10. Measure the installed load of each compression spring, and if below the limit replace the
spring, figure 4.20.

Figure 4.20 Measuring the installed load of compression spring

11. When a clutch is being rebuilt, it is normal practice to install a new throwout bearing.
However, if you wish to reuse the old bearing, examine it carefully to make sure it is
reusable. The bearing should turn freely when held in the hand under a light thrust load.
There should be no noise. The bearing should turn smoothly, without roughness. Note
the condition of the face where the release levers touch. Replace the bearing if it is not in
good condition, figure 4.21.

Figure 4.21 Replacing release bearing

12 Check the fork for wear on throw out – bearing attachments or other damage.

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Reassembling the clutch

As was described earlier there is also no general instruction for all types of clutches. Therefore,
again refer to the shop manual.

But in general:
1. Apply multi purpose grease on the sliding surfaces of all parts such as hub splines of
the disc and the input shaft of the Transmission and bushing at the end of the
crankshaft.
2. Have the mating parts aligned when assembling the clutch cover to the pressure plate.
3. When assembling the clutch cover to pressure plate, use a press in the same manner
as during assembling.
4. During assembly, be sure that the flywheel, pressure plate, and disc are completely
free of even a trace of oil or grease; other wise the clutch is likely to chatter or grab.

Installing the clutch mechanism on vehicle

1. Install the clutch disc and clutch cover to the flywheel.

a. With the cover attaching bolts tightened lightly, carefully move the guide tool
(clutch arbor) up and down and side ways to see that the cover is properly
centered before installing, figure 4.22.

Figure 4.22 centering the clutch assembly

b. Tighten the bolts back and forth in diagonal order, a little at a time. Until
tightened to specified torque.
c. Use care to see that the clutch disc is facing in proper direction when installed,
figure 4.23.

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 Figure 4.23 facing clutch disc in proper direction

d. Remove this pilot shaft once the pressure plate – to – flywheel bolts are tight.

Removing clutch release and master cylinders from the vehicle

1. First, the fluid lines are removed from the cylinder housing. The ends of the lines should
be covered to prevent contamination.
2. It is necessary to disconnect the cylinder push rod from the pedal linkage in a large
number of automobiles. This connection point is located under the instrument panel.
3. After the lines and push rod are free, the housing flange can be unbolted. Care must be
taken to keep the hydraulic fluid from dropping on the automobile finish. Fluid will
damage automobile paint.
4. The exterior of the cylinders is thoroughly cleaned. Fluid remaining in the cylinders is
discarded in a waste container as the piston is pumped. This helps to get all the fluid out.
5. The cylinders can be taken to the workbench for disassembly and overhaul.
6. If the push rod is still on the cylinder, the dust boot will have to be pulled away from the
cylinder to expose the push rod retainer. This is released and the push rod and boot are
removed.
7. The housing is placed in a vise with care to prevent distortion and the parts are removed
in the numerical order, figures 4.24 and 4.25.
8. The retaining ring is removed from the groove in the cylinder bore. This will free the
pistons and spring so they can be removed from the release cylinder.
9. Tapping the open end of the cylinder on a wooden block placed on the workbench will
aid in removing the piston.

Figure 4.24 clutch master cylinder disassembling order

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Figure 4.25 clutch release cylinder disassembling order

The position of all rubber parts, springs, and washers should be noted. All rubber parts are
removed. When the rubber parts are removed, they should be matched with the repair kit parts.
Discard all used rubber parts that are to be replaced.
Inspecting the clutch release and master cylinder components
When the release cylinder is disassembled, all parts are thoroughly cleaned with denatured
alcohol or clean fluid. Avoid using any cleaning materials that may contain even a trace of
mineral oil. The cylinder bore should be checked for scoring and corrosion

The bore is cleaned with crocus cloth or a good clutch cylinder hone. Do not exceed honing size
limits. Make sure the compensation and breather passages are clean after honing the cylinder.
Inspect the piston assembly for wear and scoring, figure 4.26. If the cup requires replacement,
use the cylinder kit.

Figure 4.26 Inspect the piston assembly for wear and scoring

Reassembling the clutch release and master cylinders

Just before assembly, reclean all parts that will be used and coat them with clutch or assembly
fluid. Install the parts in the release cylinder in the proper order. The order is described in the
instructions included in the parts kit and in applicable service manuals. Be sure to carefully
work the piston cups into the bore to avoid damaging or twisting their edges. The lock ring is
inserted to hold the parts in the cylinder. The push rod and boot should be installed to complete
assembly of the cylinders.

Note

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If recommended by the manufacturer, apply rubber grease on the parts shown by arrows before
assembling, figure 4.26.

Installing the clutch release and master cylinders on vehicle

The installation procedure is usually the reverse of removal procedure. Follow the manufacturers
manual for proper operation.

Bleeding the clutch system

A) Bleeding the clutch master cylinder

It is a good practice to bleed the release cylinder before it is installed on the automobile to reduce
the time required to bleed the entire hydraulic clutch system. This is done by connecting short
lengths of clutch tubing in the outlet openings, with the free ends bent to open in the bottom of
the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with clean fluid. Using a wooden dowel, move the pistons
slowly through their full stroke. This circulates the fluid throughout the release cylinder,
allowing trapped air to escape as bubbles. The release cylinder is completely bled when bubbles
no longer appear. The bleeding tubes are removed and the reservoir covers installed.

The release cylinder is now ready to mount on the vehicle. It is important that there be a slight
amount of pedal free play, so that the release cylinder pistons will return fully to the at-rest
position. This allows the piston cup to move in back of the compensating port to fully release
fluid pressure to the reservoir. If the pressure were not fully released, the pressure would cause
the brakes to drag. The clutch lines and push rod linkage are reconnected. If any other part of
the hydraulic system has been opened, the system should be bled after reassembly.
B) Bleeding Hydraulic Clutch System
If the clutch pedal has a “spongy” feel when it is applied, it means that air is present. The
“spongy” feel is the compression of the air when pedal is pressed down.
Usually, under normal conditions bleeding is not required but, whenever any part of the
hydraulic system has been disconnected or the level of the fluid in the reservoir has gone down
so far that air has been drawn into the release cylinder then the bleeding operation is necessary.

Bleeding Operation
To bleed the hydraulic system the vehicle must be lifted up so that access can be gained to the
bleeder screw on clutch release cylinder.

In order to carry out the bleeding operation, you will need an assistant to operate the clutch
pedal. When you give him the order to operate the pedal the fluid, with the air bubbles, will be
pumped through the hydraulic system while the bleeder screw is open.
Note

22
The bleeding operation can also be performed working alone, using special bleeding equipment.
This equipment consists of a pressurised fluid tank. When the tank is connected to the reservoir
of the release cylinder the fluid is forced through the hydraulic system.
1. First, identify the bleeder screw and clean it properly some screws are covered with a
rubber cap which must first be removed.
2. Then select the correct spanner and place it over the screw.
Note

Whenever possible, use a box wrench. This will lessen the risk of damaging the hexagon.

3. Put a bleeder hose (plastic) over the screw and place the free end of the hose in a clean
glass container, partly filled with clean fluid.
4. The end of the hose must be below the level of the fluid during the whole bleeding
operation. The glass container will make it easy for you to see the air bubbles leaving the
bleeder hose.
5. Now clean around the filler cap of the fluid reservoir and then remove the cap.
6. Fill the reservoir to the maximum level with new fluid of the type recommended. Make
sure that the reservoir is topped up during the bleeding operation. The fluid level should
never be allowed to fall to a point where air may be allowed to enter the hydraulic
system.
Note:

It is vital that maximum cleanliness is maintained throughout the entire bleeding operation.
Ensure that no dirt, grit or dust enters the fluid reservoir.

7. Slacken the bleeder screw about 1800 – or enough to allow the fluid to be pumped out.
8. Instruct the helper to pump the clutch pedal slowly, pausing at each end of the stroke for
one or two seconds.
9. Continue with this procedure until you get fluid for several pumping strokes without any
air bubbles.
10. Keep the pedal down while you close the bleeder screw.
11. The fluid reservoir should be checked and the fluid replenished throughout the bleeding
operation to avoid an air lock forming.
12. Remove the plastic hose and wipe the bleeder screw dry. Ensure that the bleeder screw is
closed tightly, but do not over tighten.
Note:
Remember to re-fit the rubber cap. Failure to do so may cause corrosion of the bleeding
screw thread and the possibility of breaking it when the bleeding operation is
subsequently carried out.

Remember:

Fluid, which has been bled from the system, may be contaminated or may contain certain
moisture and should not be re – used, unless you are sure that it is fresh fluid.

When the bleeding is finished, the clutch pedal should no longer feel spongy. It should feel stiff.

23
Remember:

Air, which is allowed to remain in the system, will be compressed and this will make the clutch
pedal spongy (a deformed clutch shoe could also make it spongy).

13. Now push and keep the pedal pressed down hard for about thirty seconds. The pedal
should remain steady and in the same position all the time if the hydraulic system is in
good condition.
14. Finally, check the bleeder screw to ensure that it is tightly closed and that there are no
signs of leakage.
Note:

Bleeding the hydraulic system in the way described is only done when air is present in the
system. If the hydraulic system has been contaminated by an incorrect fluid or oil being used,
the only safe way to rectify the problem is by flushing the system thoroughly with the correct
new fluid – replacing all rubber parts, including hoses – cleaning the individual bores with
correct new fluid and filling the system with the correct fluid. There is no way in which
contaminated rubber parts can be rectified.

Adjusting clutch pedal height (figure 4.27)

1. Loosen the lock nut (2) and the push rod (3)
2. Adjust the pedal height by turning the stop bolt. Pedal height is found from service
manual of the manufacturer.
3. Loosen the lock nut (2), and adjust the push rod play by turning the push rod (3).
Push rod play is also found from service manual of the manufacturer.

Figure 4.27 adjusting clutch pedal height

Testing Clutch Slippage

24
1. Put a block in front of each wheel and then pull on the hand brake.
2. Disengage the clutch and start the engine.
3. Engage the second gear. The engagement should work smoothly, without resistance and,
of course, without any noise, thus indicating that the power train is well interrupted.
4. Then, release the clutch and, at the same time, increase engine speed to between 2,000
and 3,000 revs, if it is a petrol engine and 1,500 revs if it is a diesel engine, to obtain
good engine torque.
5. If the clutch is in good condition the engine will stall when the clutch is fully engaged.
But if the engine still runs when the clutch is fully engaged, then it means that the clutch
is slipping and is not transferring the engine power properly. It may be that it has not
been adjusted properly; it may be that the disc is worn out, or it may be that the pressure
plate has not been adjusted properly.

Attention:
Ensure that no one is standing in front of your vehicle when you make the clutch slippage
test. Make the test as short as possible so that you will not overheat the clutch disc.

Manual Transmission
The Transmission serves the purpose of changing the engine torque and speed into the torque
and speed required by the wheels of the automobile for each task. It also provides a means of
allowing the automobile to be reversed when required and allows the drive to the wheels to be
stopped without having to stop the engine or keep the foot applied to the clutch pedal.

A manual Transmission is an assembly of gears and shafts that transmit power from the engine to
the drive axle. It allows the engine crankshaft to turn fast while the wheels turn slowly. The
Transmission can then change the ratio of crankshaft speed to car speed as the car speed
increases. That is;

Types of Manual Transmission

There are three basic types of manual Transmission depending on the type of gear mesh they use:

1. Sliding – mesh
2. Constant – mesh
3. Synchro – mesh

The Sliding – Mesh Gear Box

The sliding – mesh gearbox was popular on cars upto about 1930, but today it is rarely used.
Nevertheless the reader is advised to study this type because many modern gearboxes have been
developed from its configuration.

The basic layout of a 4 – speed and reverse gearbox is shown in Figure 4.31. The various spur –
type gears are mounted on three shafts.

25
 Primary shaft (alternative names – clutch or first motion shaft)
 Lay shaft (countershaft)
 Main shaft (third motion shaft)

Figure 4.31 Four – speed and reverse sliding – mesh gearbox

Primary Shaft

This shaft transmits the drive from the clutch to the gearbox. At the engine end, the shaft is
supported by a spigot bearing positioned close to the splines onto which the clutch driven plate
is connected. The main load on this shaft is taken by a bearing; normally a sealed radial ball
type, positioned close to an input gear or clutch gear.

Layshaft

This shaft, which is normally fixed to the gearbox casing, supports the various – sized driving
gears.

Main shaft

This splined output shaft carries spur gear wheels that slide along the shaft to engage with the
appropriate layshaft gears. At the front end, the mainshaft is supported by a spigot bearing
situated in the center of the clutch gear. A heavy-duty radial ball bearing is fitted at the other
end to take the force of the gears as they attempt to move apart. The load on this bearing is at a
maximum at the time when first gear is engaged and high torque is being produced.

26
Gear selector

The selector is a fork, mounted on a rod that fits into a groove in the gear. The function of the
fork is to slide the gears along the mainshaft so that the gear can engage and disengage with the
matching gear mounted on the layshaft.

A 4 – speed gearbox needs three selector forks; these slide on, or move with, three separator
rods. Normally one fork controls first and second gears, and the second fork, the third and top
gears. Reverse has a separate fork, longer than the other two, because it has to fit around the
lower – positioned reverse gear.

A gear lever transfer the force and movement initiated by the driver to the appropriate selector
fork.

Gear positions (Figure 4.32)

27
Figure 4.32 Gear positions (sliding – mesh)

Gear Changing

28
When one gear is moved to engage with another gear, noise will result if the peripheral (outside)
speeds are not the same. To avoid this, the driver of a vehicle having a sliding – mesh gearbox
performs an operation called double-declutching.

On changing up, e.g. from first to second, the clutch driven plate, primary shaft and layshaft gear
cluster must be slowed down by re-engaging the clutch while the lever is positioned in neutral.
The engine slows down more quickly than the layshaft assembly, so a braking action on the
layshaft assembly is obtained.

The opposite is required when changing down; the layshaft must be speeded up. To achieve this,
the engine is reconnected to the gearbox while the lever is in neutral, and the accelerator pedal is
depressed. When the layshaft assembly has speeded up by the required amount, the accelerator
is released, the clutch pedal depressed, and the gear lever moved to the lower gear. Finally, as
the clutch is being released, the engine must be accelerated sufficiently to match the engine
speed to the road speed.

A chamfer on the entry side of each gear tooth is provided to allow for an easier entry of the
sliding gear. However, if the driver makes a bad change, in addition to the loud noise created by
the gear teeth rubbing against each other, burring of the teeth will occur and in some cases the
teeth will chip or break off.

Selector Mechanism

A fork of the type shown in Figure. 4.34 is used to slide a gear along the mainshaft in order to
select the appropriate gear. It is mounted on its own rod and links the driving gears stick to the
sliding gear . Two selector forks are required for a three – speed and reverse gearbox and three
forks are needed for a four – speed unit. The gear stick can be a direct – acting lever or it can be
mounted remote from the gearbox.

Every gearbox must be fitted with the following:

1. Selector detent – holds the gears and selectors in position and so prevents gear
engagement or disengagement due to vibration.
2. Interlock mechanism – prevents two gears engaging simultaneously; if this occurs the
gearbox will lock up and shaft rotation will be impossible.
(Severe damage would occur if this device were omitted during a gearbox overhaul).

29
Figure 4.34 Selector mechanism

Selector detent

Figure 4.34 a shows a typical arrangement suitable for a layout having the selector fork locked to
the rod. The device consists of a steel ball that is pressed into a groove in the rod by a spring. In
the rod are ground three grooves; these correspond to the rod positions for neutral and for the
two gears served by the selector. Retention of the rod is governed by the strength of the spring.
In cases where the spring strength is adjustable, it must be set sufficiently strong to prevent the
gear from jumping out of mesh, but not so strong that it makes gear changing difficult.

Each selector rod has a separate spring – loaded detent.

Interlock mechanism

Every gearbox must have some form of safety device fitted to prevent two gears, e.g. second and
top, engaging at the same time. This mechanism is fitted in addition to the selector detent.
Although the interlock device takes a number of different forms, the arrangement shown in
Figure 4.34 b is one of the most common.

This system uses a plunger and two balls; the diameter of each ball is greater than the spaces
between the rods. When one of the outside rods is moved, the full diameter of the rod presses its

30
adjacent ball into the groove ground in the center rod. This action retains the center rod in the
neutral position and also pushes the plunger against the second ball to lock the other rod.

From the neutral position, movement of the center selector rod carries the plunger with it and
allows the full shaft diameter of the rod to push both steel balls into the grooves machined in the
outer rods.

Study of Figure 4.34 b will show the person who has to dismantle the selector mechanism that
the rods cannot be driven out unless they are positioned in the neutral position.

When dismantling a gearbox for repair, it is advisable to ascertain the type of interlock used on
the particular gearbox; this is because during cleaning it is easy for either a ball or the plunger to
drop out. If this is not noticed when the box is reassembled, the high risk of gearbox seizure, and
the effect of this on a moving vehicle, will cause many problems.

Constant – mesh and synchro-mesh gearbox

Disadvantages of the sliding mesh

Although the mechanical efficiency of the sliding mesh gearbox was high, it suffered from two
great disadvantages:

1. Gear noise due to the type of gear

2. The difficulty of obtaining a smooth, quiet and quick change of gear without the
application of great skill and judgment.

Gearbox designs introduced during the last 50 years have endeavored to overcome these
disadvantages. The first step in the development came when the constant – mesh gearbox was
used.

Constant – mesh gearbox

This was first used on cars in the early 1930s, but gave way in a short time to other designs,
although it is still used on commercial vehicles and tractor.

The main feature is the use of the stronger helical or double helical gears which lead to quieter
operation. Each pair of gears is in constant mesh, and gear operation is obtained by locking the
respective gear to the mainshaft by means of a dog clutch.

The layout of the box follows the sliding – mesh arrangement previously described, and
Figure4.35 shows the main details of the third – and top-gear section. The mainshaft gears are
mounted on bushes or needle rollers, and are located by thrust washers. When the gear is
required, a dog clutch, which is splined to the mainshaft, is slid along by the selector to engage
with the dogteeth formed on the gear. This has the effect of locking the gears to the shaft. There
will still be noise if the dogteeth are not rotating at the same speed when the engagement is

31
made, and so double-declutching is necessary, but damage caused by a „bad‟ change will be
limited to the dog clutch.

Figure 4.35 Constant – mesh gear box

Synchro-mesh mechanism

The improvement achieved by fitting a constant – mesh gearbox was great, but a certain amount
of skill was still required to produce a quick, quiet change. The difficulty was in double-
declutching, and the purpose of carrying out this operation was to equalize the speeds of the two
sets of dogteeth before engaging the gear. It soon became apparent that some device was
required to synchronize the speeds mechanically, and when the system was invented it was
known as the synchro-mesh gearbox.

Figure 4.36 shows the main details of the synchro-mesh unit controlling third and top gear.
Fundamentally the box is laid out in the same manner as a constant – mesh, with the exception
that a cone clutch is fitted between the dog and gear members.

32
Figure 4.36 Principle of the synchro – mesh gearbox

The female cone of this clutch is formed in a hub, which has internal and external splines. A
series of spring – loaded balls is carried in radial holes in the hub, and these push outwards into a
groove machined in a sleeve, which has splines of the same pitch as the dogteeth on the gear.

The initial movement of the selector and sleeve carries the hub towards the gear and allows the
cones to contact. At this point, the friction between the cones adjusts the speed of the gear to suit
the hub and mainshaft. Extra pressure on the lever will allow the sleeve to override the spring –
loaded balls, and positively engage with the dogs on the gear.

Gear lever control

Direct type of gear lever control

This relatively early type of gear lever control was provided with a spring – loaded ball – and –
socket mounting directly in the tower of the gearbox top cover, figure 4.39. A cross – pin in the
gear lever ball engaged a groove in the tower socket to prevent rotational movement of the gear
lever. To guarantee against unnecessary engagement of reverse gear, some form of blocking
device was placed across the path that the lever had to follow to engage reverse, this obstacle
being overcome only by some additional action on the part of the driver. In some cases it
involved lifting slightly upwards the whole gear lever before it could be moved in the
appropriate direction to engage reverse, while in others the gear lever motion was just the same
as for any of the forward gears, but a fairly strong spring loading had to be overcome when
moving towards reverse position. The blocking devices used were a guard plate and a spring –
loaded plunger respectively, both of which were arranged to act against the selector finger of the
gear lever.

33
Figure 4.39 Direct type of gear lever control for commercial vehicle.

Remote type of gear lever control

A remote gear lever control is usually associated with the following Transmission layouts:

1. Forward – mounted engine and gearbox, rear – wheel drive.

2. Front engine with rear transaxle
3. Front engine, front – wheel drive
4. Rear engine, rear – wheel drive
5. Front engine with forward – mounted cab (commercial vehicle).

A remote type of gear lever control, figure 4.40, is required where the gearbox is mounted as far
forward or rearward, of the seating arrangements for the driver that it is no longer possible to use
a direct type of gear lever.

Figure 4.40 Operating principle of remote type of gear lever:

A. Gear lever D. Selector finger
B. Crank arm E. Lift lever reverse guard
C. Remote control rod O. Ball – and – socket joint

34
It comprises basically a remote push – pull rod that is usually cranked downwards where it
engages the lower end of the gear lever. Alternatively, a toggle connection may be used between
the remote control rod and the gear lever. In some installations it is necessary for the control rod
to have universally jointed ends. These various features enable the rod to transmit both axial and
rotational movements to the gear selector mechanism, in sympathy with fore – and aft and
sideways rocking movements of the gear lever. At its end, remote from the gear lever, the
control rod actuates either a multi – or a single – rail gear selection system, as earlier described.
A reverse guard similar to those previously described for the direct type of gear lever control is,
of course, still required for this and other versions of remote gear lever control.

In the case of a transversely mounted engine and gearbox, the inherent problem of isolating their
motions from the remote gear lever control is a difficult one and can only be overcome by using
either enclosed push – pull cables, or a system of rods and relay levers, to operate the selectors.
In the latter case it typically becomes necessary to introduce two bell – crank relay levers, so that
the control rod movements can be turned through a right angle. One of the levers serves to
engage the selector finger with the appropriate selector rod and the other moves the selector
finger and the selector rod to engage the gear, figure 4.41.

Figure 4.41 Remote type of gear lever control for transversely mounted gearbox (Talbot)

1. Gear lever 6. Relay lever, gear selection

2. Control tube 7. Relay lever, gear engagement
3. Operating arm, gear selection 8. Adjustable rod, gear engagement
4. Adjustable rod, gear selection 9. Adjustable rod, gear engagement
5. Relay lever

A remote gear lever control does not necessarily have to be floor mounted, since less commonly
it may be operated from the facial or the steering column. For example, the former type of

35
control makes for a less complicated linkage in those versions of front – wheel drive where the
transaxle, combining the gearbox and final drive, is mounted ahead of the engine. If comprises
simply a „walking stick‟ twist and push – pull control rod, which is cranked where it intercept the
top of a direct – mounted gear lever.

This steering column type of gear change control, figure 4.42, was an made to give the front –
seat passengers more space and leg room and also make possible a three bench-seating
arrangement.

Figure 4.42 A modern example of steering column gear control for three-speed
Transmission (Nissan)

1. Control lever 7. First – reverse shift lever

2. Control rod 8. Second – third upper shift rod
3. Trunnion rod 9. Cross - shaft
4. Second – third shift lever 10. Second – third lower shift rod
5. Trunnion rod 11. Second – third change lever
6. First – reverse shift rod\

However, by present – day standards of gear control many such installations lacked precision of
operation (to put it kindly!) because of the complexity of their linkage and the multiplicity of
pivot points that were subject to wear. Also, they are not entirely compatible with the modern
safety requirement for a collapsible steering column.

36
 Manual transmission troubleshooting

To accurately diagnose a complaint about a manual Transmission, a procedure must be followed.

Road test the car with the owner to verify that the complaint exists. Road testing with the owner
gives you the opportunity to identify the condition that the owner wants corrected.

There are two general types of manual Transmission troubles. They are: -

1. Noise and
2. Improper operation
Note:- Certain clutch problems produce symptoms similar to the symptoms of Transmission
problems.

MANUAL TRANSMISSION TROUBLESHOOTING

NO. TROUBLE CAUSE REMEDY
1 Transmission  Low lubricant level.  Refill lubricant
noise in Neutral  Abnormal end play in countershaft  Correct end play
gears, reverse.
 Input shaft gear badly worn or broken.  Replace input shaft
gear*
 Input shaft bearing badly worn or  Replace input shaft
broken. bearing
 Misalignment between engine and  Correct misalignment
Transmission.
 Wear in countershaft drive gear  Replace countershaft
drive gear*
 Wear in reverse and/or reverse idler  Replace the worn
gear. gear*
 Countershaft bearings badly worn  Replace countershaft
bearing
 Reverse idler shaft bearings badly  Replace reverse idler
worn. shaft bearings

 Countershaft sprung or bent.  Straighten
countershaft, if
necessary replace
countershaft.
 Pilot shaft bearing worn or broken.  Replace pilot shaft
bearing
2. Transmission  Output shaft rear bearing worn or  Replace output shaft
noise in Gear broken. rear bearing
 Gears badly worn or broken.  Replace the
worn/broken gears.

*
If the replacement of a gear is required, the mating gear should be replaced too.

37
 MANUAL TRANSMISSION TROUBLESHOOTING
NO. TROUBLE CAUSE REMEDY
 Excessive end play of output shaft.  Correct end play of
output shaft.
 Badly worn speedometer gears  Replace the gear.

3. Transmission slip  Input shaft gear teeth worn or tapered.  Replace the gear.
out of Gear  Input shaft gear bearing badly worn  Replace the bearing.
 Improper adjustment of shift linkage.  Adjust the shift
linkage.
 Worn shift détente parts.  Replace détente parts.
 Damaged output shaft pilot bearing.  Replace the bearing.
 Pilot bearing loose in crankshaft.  Replace the bearing.
 Transmission loose on clutch housing.  Re-tighten the bolts.
 Input shaft gear retainer broken or  Replace the retainer.
loose.
 Badly worn or broken gear.  Replace the gear.
 Badly worn Transmission bearings.  Replace the bearing
 Excessive endplay of output shaft or  Correct endplay.
countershaft.
 Output shaft splines worn or distorted.  Replace the shaft.

4. Transmission  Worn or damaged reverse idler gear or  Replace the

Noisy in Reverse idler bushing. gear/bushing.
 Worn or damaged reverse gear on  Replace the gear.
main shaft.
 Damaged or worn reverse counter  Replace the gear.
gear.
 Damaged shift mechanism.  Replace.
5. Transmission  Engine clutch not releasing.  Detect and repair as
Difficult to Shift. necessary.
 Distorted or burred output shaft  Correct or repair
splines.
 Improper adjustment of shift linkage.  Readjust the linkage.
 Misalignment of column control  Adjust misalignment.
levers.
 Incorrect clutch adjustment.  Re-correct clutch
adjustment.
 Internal bind in Transmission caused  Adjust or repair.
by shift forks or synchronizer
assemblies.
 Binding shift rail.  Straighten the binding.
 Incorrect lubricant.  Use the proper grade
of lubricant.

38
 MANUAL TRANSMISSION TROUBLESHOOTING
NO. TROUBLE CAUSE REMEDY
6. Transmission  Damage oil seals.  Replace the oil seals.
leaks oil  Damaged O - rings at speedometer  Replace the O - rings.
driven gear.
 Damaged or missing gaskets.  Replace the gaskets.
 Case or cover bolts loose or missing.  Tighten or replace the
bolts.
 Case plugs loose or threads stripped.  Tighten or replace the
plug.
 High lubricant level.  Adjust the level.
 Vent stopped up.  Repair the vent.
 Use of lubricant that foams  Use the proper grade
excessively. of lubricant.
 Loose or broken input shaft bearing  Replace the retainer.
retainer.
 Worn shift lever seals.  Replace the seals.
7. Transmission  Incorrect clutch adjustment.  Re-correct the
Gears clash when adjustment.
shifting.  Binding clutch cable or linkage.  Correct the binding.
 Worn or damaged synchronizer  Replace the
assemblies. synchronizer assy.
 Low lubricant level.  Adjust the level.
 Engine idle speed too high.  Adjust the speed.
 Misaligned clutch housing.  Adjust misalignment.
8. Transmission will  Worn or damaged gear shift selector  Replace the worn part.
not shift into one plates, interlock plate, or selector arm.
gear.  Worn shift rail détente plunger or  Replace the necessary
broken spring. part.
 Worn or damaged gearshift lever  Replace the assembly.
assembly.
 Worn or damaged synchronizer  Replace the assembly.
assembly.
9. Transmission  Worn or broken shift rail.  Replace the part.
locked in one gear.  Bent shifter fork.  Straighten the fork or
replace it as necessary.
 Broken gear teeth.  Replace the gear.
 Worn or broken gearshift lever  Replace the assembly
assembly.
 Broken shift mechanism in cover.  Repair or replace as
necessary.

Manual - Transmission maintenance

39
Basically, manual Transmission maintenance involves:-

 Making periodic “fluid” level checks.

 Making an external inspection of the Transmission for possible fluid leaks.
 Testing gearshift operation through all the gear ranges.
 Checking clutch pedal free play.
 Examining the condition of the Transmission mount.
 Testing the torque tightness of the Transmission - to - clutch housing attaching bolts.

Removing Manual – Transmission:-

General working procedures:-

1. On floor - shift cars remove the shift lever.

2. Raise the vehicle on a lift
3. Mark the rear - axle flange and drive shaft so that the drive shaft can be reinstalled in
the same position when reconnected.
4. Drain the lubricant from the Transmission.
5. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the Transmission.
6. Disconnect the wiring to the back up - light.
7. Disconnect the drive shaft.
8. Support the engine with a jack or engine support.
9. Remove the upper bolts attaching the Transmission to the clutch housing and install
guide pins in the holes.
10. Remove the other Transmission - attaching bolts. Then slide the Transmission rearward
until the clutch shaft clears the clutch.

Caution: -
The Transmission is heavy. Always, use a Transmission jack if available. Place the jack
under the Transmission to support it. If a jack is not available, get another person to help
you. Move the Transmission to the rear until it is free, then lower it and move it out from
under the car.

With the Transmission out, inspect the clutch and flywheel condition and tightness.
Check the clutch-shaft pilot bushing in the end of the engine crankshaft. If the pilot
bushing is worn, replace it.

Disassembling Manual - Transmission

Manual - Transmission constructions vary considerably from car to car. Therefore,

removal and servicing procedures also vary. Before attempting to disassemble a manual
Transmission, carefully study Transmission section in the manufacturer‟s service manual.
If possible, locate the illustrations and exploded views for the Transmission you are
working on. Overhaul procedures differ for different Transmissions. Follow the
procedures for disassembly, service and reassembly that are in the manufacturer‟s service
manual.

40
Inspecting Manual Transmission

1. Clean forks and fork rods with solvent and check for wear, scratches, projection,
damage or other faulty conditions. Replace if it is worn or damaged.
2. Clean the transmission case with solvent and check for cracks or pits by means of
dyeing test. Check mating surfaces for small nicks, projection or sealant.
3. Thoroughly clean bearings and dry with compressed air. When race and ball
surfaces are worn or rough, or when balls are out of round or rough, replace
bearing. Replace needle bearing if worn or damage.
4. Gears and shafts
a. Check all gears for excessive wear, chips or cracks; replace as required.
b. Check shaft for bending, crack, wear and worn splin; if necessary replace.
c. Measure gear and play:
 It is necessary to measure endplay before disassembling main shaft
and after reassembling main shaft.
 Tighten main shaft lock nut to specified limit and measure end play to
insure it is within specified limit.
 If endplay is not within specified limit, disassemble and check parts
for condition
 Replace any part which is worn or damaged.
5. Synchronizes
 Check each synchronize sleeve for free movement on its hub. Look for worn
or damaged splines.
 Inspect the teeth on each synchronize ring. Replace the synchronize ring if it
has chipped or worn teeth, or marks on the gear face.
 Check the amount of synchronizer ring wear by placing the ring on its gear
cone with a thickness gauge, measure the clearance between the side faces and
compare it with specification. Replace the synchronize ring or gear if it is out
of specification.

Installing Manual Transmission on vehicle

In general, installation is the reverse of removal. Just, before installation,

1. shift the Transmission into each gear and turn the input shaft to check that the
Transmission works as it should.
2. Be sure the matching faces of the Transmission and the flywheel housing are
clean.
3. Place a small amount of lubricant on the splines of the input shaft.
4. Pre-align the splines on the input shaft and the friction - disc, hub by turning
the input shaft so the splines line up.
5. Install guide pins and lift the Transmission.
6. Slide the Transmission forward into position.
7. Turn the shaft, if necessary, to secure alignment of the shaft and the friction -
disc hub splines.
8. Put the bolts in place, and tighten them. Replace the guide pins with bolts and
tighten them.

41
Careful:-
If the transmission does not fit snugly, against the flywheel housing or you cannot move
the Transmission easily into place, do not force it. If the bolts are tightened under such
circumstances, transmission case may be broken.

9 As a final step in the procedure, fill the transmission with the proper type and
amount of lubricant.

Adjusting Shift - Linkage

The linkage between the selector lever and the shift levers on the Transmission and transfer case
must be properly adjusted. This permits proper selection of gears and completion of the shifts.
Typically, the adjustment is made with the Transmission and transfer case levers positioned in
neutral. The rods that were disconnected may require minor adjustment, but they will usually
slip in and clip in. However, the rods may not fit if you disconnected the linkage at the wrong
points, bent the rods or unnecessarily turned the threaded clevis pins. If the linkage has been
tampered with, or the rods do not fit into the shift levers on the Transmission, then a linkage
adjustment must be made.
Follow the procedures in the manufacturer‟s service manual.

Lubrication of Transmission and transfer case

The gearbox and transfer case are filled with automotive Transmission oil. The typical gear oil
is refined from crude with the required additives in it.

SAE 75W, 75W – 80, 80W – 90 85W – 90, 90 or 140 oils are recommended for different
Transmission and transfer cases. Refer to the manufacturers manual for the proper type of
lubricating oil.

42
Transfer case
On bad roads and off the roads, the cross – country vehicles with several driving axles render
efficient service. In these automobiles, the engine torque is distributed between the driving
axles, and the front axle is engaged by a special gearbox called transfer case, figure 4.43.

Figure 4.43 Location of transfer case

The transfer case is an auxiliary Transmission mounted in back of the main Transmission. By
shifting gears in the transfer case, engine power is driven and transferred to both the front and
rear differentials, figure 4.44. Transfer cases can be part – time or full – time operation, figure
4.45. With part – time four – wheel drive it is used to engage or disengage the front differential.
In most vehicles, a transfer case also provides the drives with a selection of either of two drive
speeds, or ranges, high or low. Usually high speed provides a gear ratio 1:1 and low speed 2:1.

Figure 4.44 parts of a transfer case

43
Figure 4.45 power flow in transfer case

44
Removing Transfer Case from Vehicle

1. Disconnect battery ground cable to avoid accidental short circuit.

2. Jack up vehicle and support its weight on safety stands. Use a hydraulic hoist or
open pit, if available.
3. Remove transfer protector (if present).
4. Remove propeller shaft securing nuts.
5. Remove front and rear propeller shafts.
6. Support transfer case with jack.
7. Remove transfer unit with propeller shaft from the vehicle.

Installing Transfer Case on Vehicle

Install transfer case in reverse order of removal, paying attention to the following points:

1. Remove filler plug and fill transfer with recommended gear oil to the specified
level.
Supply seal and to threads of filler plug and install filler plug to transfer case.

Manual transaxle
The manual transaxle includes the transmission, clutch, and differential. It is mounted on the
engine (fig 4.46). The most common arrangement uses the engine and transaxle at the front of
the car for front – wheel drive. The engine is mounted crossways, or in a transverse position.

Figure4.46Exterior view of a transaxle

Shifting is accomplished in the same way as in other manual transmissions. Movement of the
shift lever engages a lever which moves a shift rod. The shift rod moves a lever on the
transmission. This movement causes a fork in the transmission to shift a synchronizer one way
or the other on a shaft. The synchronizer movement locks a gear to a shaft or to another gear so
the desired gear ratio through the transmission is achieved.

45
Figure 4.47 Four-speed transaxle for a front wheel drive car

46
Transaxle with Dual – Speed Range

A dual – range transaxle provides the usual four forward speeds plus reverse as in other
transaxles. In addition, some models of this transmission have an extra set of gears that can
supply overdrive in each gear position. This provides two speed ranges which the manufacturer
calls the economy range and the power range. With four forward speeds in each range, this
transaxle provides a total of eight forward speeds.

The gear ratios for both the single – range transaxle and the dual – range transaxle are shown in
fig. 4 – 48. In fourth gear, the power range of the two – speed transaxle provides a gear ratio of
1.105:1. The crankshaft turns 1.105 times to turn the output shaft once. When shifted into the
economy range, fourth gear has a gear ratio of 0.855:1, which is overdrive. For each complete
revolution of the output shaft, the crankshaft turns less than one complete revolution (only 0.855
of one revolution).

Standard transaxle Dual range transaxle

(Single range) Power range Economy range
st
Gear ratios 1 4.226 4.226 3.272
2nd 2.365 2.365 1.831
3rd 1.467 1.467 1.136
4th 1.105 1.105 0.855
Reverse 4.109 4.109 3.181

Figure 4.48 Gear ratios of a standard single-range transaxle compared with gear ratios in each
range of a dual-range transaxle.

Figures 4 – 49 and 4-50 are sectional views of the two transaxles. Notice that there is an
intermediate gear (item 5 in fig. 4 – 52 and item 8 in fig. 4 – 51). This is the same as the counter
gear in standard transmissions. The intermediate gear is located between the input shaft and the
output shaft. By changing the design of the input shaft and the intermediate shaft, it is possible
to use the same case for either the single – range or the dual – range gear set.

47
Figure 4.51sectional view of a dual-range transaxle

Basically, the dual – range transaxle has an additional gear and a synchronizer on the input shaft.
This can be seen by comparing the dual – range input shaft shown in fig. 4 – 51 with the input
shaft for the single – range transaxle shown in fig. 4 – 52.

48
Figure-4.52 sectional view of a single-range transaxle

Shifting between the two ranges requires a separate lever. Figure 4 – 53 shows the shift patterns
for both the range – selector lever and the gearshift lever. By moving the range – selector lever,
the range – selector synchronizer (fig. 4 – 53) can be shifted back and forth along the input shaft.
This locks either the input low gear or the input high gear to the shaft. The range – selector lever
is placed in either low range for power or high range for economy.

49
Figure4.53 Control levers and linkage for the “twin stick” dual-range transaxle

Differential and Drive Shafts for Transaxles

The drive shafts have universal joints that permit them to carry rotary motion through angles.
Slip joints allow the effective length of the drive shaft to change. These joint actions allow the
front wheels to move up and down as they meet irregularities in the road and to be swung from
side to side for steering.

The differential allows the two front wheels to rotate at different speeds as the car travels around
a curve or makes a turn. The outer wheel always has to travel farther and therefore must turn
faster. The differential in the transaxle allows this to happen.

When both wheels are turning at the same speed, the differential acts like a solid coupling. The
differential case turns both drive shafts and wheels at the same speed. However, when the car
makes a turn, the differential pinions rotate on the pinion shaft. This causes the side gear that is
splined to the outer – wheel drive shaft to turn faster.

Removing Transaxle from the vehicle

The General Motors transaxle used on their smaller front – drive cars is removed as follows:

1. Disconnect the battery – ground cable from the transaxle case.

50
2. Some vehicles have two transaxle – strut – bracket bolts on the left side of the engine
compartment. Where present, remove the bolts.
3. Remove the engine – to – transaxle bolts.
4. Break loose the engine – to – transaxle bolt near the starting motor (at the front of the
car) but do not remove the bolt yet.
5. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transaxle.
6. Remove the retaining clip and washer from the transaxle – shift linkage at the
transaxle. Remove the clips securing the shift cables to the mounting bosses on the
transaxle case.
7. Install an engine – holding fixture so that one end is supported on the cowl tray over
the wiper motor and the other end rests on the radiator support. Attach a fixture hook
to the engine lift ring and raise the engine just enough to take the weight off the
engine mounts.

Caution: The engine – support fixture must be located in the center of the cowl and
the fasteners must be properly torqued before supporting the engine. The fixture is
not intended to support the entire weight of the engine and transaxle. You could be
hurt if the fixture is not properly installed because it could then slip and let the engine
drop down.
8. Unlock the steering column and raise the car on a lift. Place a transmission jack
under the transaxle in readiness to support it.
9. Remove the nuts attaching the stabilizer bar to the driver – side lower control arm.
10. Remove the bolts that attach the retaining plate that holds the driver – side stabilizer
bar to the cradle.
11. Loosen the four bolts holding the stabilizer bracket on the passenger side of the
cradle.
12. If the exhaust pipe is in the way, disconnect and remove it.
13. Pull the stabilizer bar down on the driver‟s side.
14. Remove nuts and disconnect the front and rear transaxle mounts at the cradle.
15. Remove the rear center cross – member bolts.
16. Remove from the passenger side three front – cradle – attaching bolts. The nuts can
be reached by pulling back the splash shield next to the frame rail.
17. If so equipped, remove the top bolt from the lower front transaxle damper shock
absorber.
18. Remove the left front wheel. Remove the front cradle – to – body bolts on the
driver‟s side of the cradle. Remove the rear cradle – to – body bolts.
19. Use the special tool to pull the driver – side (left) drive shaft from the transaxle
assembly. The passenger – side (right) drive shaft is then disconnected from the case.
When the transaxle assembly is removed, the right shaft can be swung out of the way.
Be sure to use the boot protector when disconnecting the drive shafts.
20. Swing the partial cradle to the driver‟s side and wire it securely outboard of the
fender well.
21. Remove the bolts from the flywheel shield and the starting – motor shield and remove
the shields.
22. If so equipped, remove the two transaxle – extension bolts from the engine – to –
transaxle bracket.

51
 23. Securely attach the transaxle case to the transmission jack.
24. Remove the last transaxle – to – engine bolt.
25. Remove the transaxle by sliding it to the driver‟s side, away from the engine. Lower
the jack and move the transaxle to the bench for service.

Disassembling Transaxle

1. Put the transaxle on a suitable stand.

2. To remove the clutch cover, remove the bolts attaching the cover to the transaxle case.
3. Use a plastic hammer and carefully tap the clutch cover loose from the case. A special
plastic sealant is used between the cover and case instead of a gasket.
4. Remove the differential assembly and ring gear.
5. Position the shifter shaft in the neutral position so that the shifter can move freely and is
not engaged in any drive gear.
6. Bend back the tab on the lock and remove the bolt from the shifter shaft. Remove the
shifter shaft and the shift – fork shaft from the synchronizer forks
7. Remove the reverse – shift fork by disengaging it from the guide pin and interlock
bracket.
8. Remove the lock bolt securing the reverse – idler – gear shaft. Remove the reverse idler
gear and shaft.
9. Remove the detent shift lever and interlock assembly. Leave the shift forks temporarily
engaged with the synchronizers.
10. Grasp the input and output shafts and lift them out as an assembly from the case. Note
the position of the shift forks so that you can put them back in the same places on
reassembly.
11. Disassembling the Input Shaft following the proper procedure specified by the
manufacturer and using the recommended special tools.

Note
To disassemble the input shaft, several parts that have been press – fitted on the shaft must be
pressed off in a shop press. The basic rule in pressing a gear or bearing on or off a shaft is
that the force must be applied at the correct points. For example, force through a ball or
roller bearing can ruin it. Special supports must be used that will fit around the part while
force is being applied to the shaft.

12. Disassemble the Output Shaft following the proper procedure specified by the
manufacturer and using the recommended special tools.
13. Disassemble synchronizer by carefully prying the springs from it. Then mark the hub and
sleeve so that you can put them back together in the same relative positions. Separate the
parts, noting the positions of the keys. Clean and inspect the parts. Replace defective
parts.
14. Assemble the input shaft by lubricating all parts before starting the reassembly referring
to the figure which shows the proper relationship of the parts that go onto the shaft.
15. Assemble the output shaft by lubricating all parts before starting the reassembly referring
to the figure which shows the proper relationship of the parts that go onto the shaft.

52
 16. Overhaul the transaxle – case following the proper procedure specified by the
manufacturer and using the recommended special tools.
17. Overhaul the clutch - cover following the proper procedure specified by the manufacturer
and using the recommended special tools.
18. After cleaning and inspecting all parts reassemble the clutch - cover following the proper
procedure specified by the manufacturer and using the recommended special tools.
19. Overhaul the differential - case following the proper procedure specified by the
manufacturer and using the recommended special tools

Inspecting the transaxle parts

6. Clean forks and fork rods with solvent and check for wear, scratches, projection,
damage or other faulty conditions. Replace if it is worn or damaged.
7. Clean the transaxle case with solvent and check for cracks or pits by means of
dyeing test. Check mating surfaces for small nicks, projection or sealant.
8. Thoroughly clean bearings and dry with compressed air. When race and ball
surfaces are worn or rough, or when balls are out of round or rough, replace
bearing. Replace needle bearing if worn or damage.
9. Gears and shafts
a. Check all gears for excessive wear, chips or cracks; replace as required.
b. Check shaft for bending, crack, wear and worn spline; if necessary
replace.
c. Measure gear and play:
 It is necessary to measure endplay before disassembling and after
reassembling shafts.
 Tighten the shafts lock nuts to specified limit and measure endplay to insure it
is within specified limit.
 If endplay is not within specified limit, disassemble and check parts for
condition
 Replace any part which is worn or damaged.
10. Synchronizes
 Check each synchronize sleeve for free movement on its hub. Look for worn
or damaged splines.
 Inspect the teeth on each synchronize ring. Replace the synchronize ring if it
has chipped or worn teeth, or marks on the gear face.
 Check the amount of synchronizer ring wears by placing the ring on its gear
cone with a thickness gauge; measure the clearance between the side faces and
compare it with specification. Replace the synchronize ring or gear if it is out
of specification.

Reassembling transaxle

Proceed as follows:

1. Put the two shaft assemblies on the bench and install the shift forks.

53
 2. Pick up the two shafts as an assembly and carefully lower them into the transaxle
case. Do not nick the gears.
3. Put the interlock bracket onto the special guide pin. Be sure the bracket engages the
fingers on the shift forks. Put the detent shift lever in the interlock.
4. Install the shifter shaft through the interlock bracket and detent shift lever. Do not
push it in any farther at this time.
5. Install the reverse –shift fork on the guide pin. Be sure the reverse – shift fork
engages the interlock bracket.
6. Install the reverse idler gear and shaft. Be sure that the long end of the shaft points up
and that the large chamfered ends of the gear teeth face up. Install the spacer on the
shaft. The flat on the reverse idler shaft faces the input shaft.
7. Fully install the shifter shaft through the reverse-shift fork until the shaft pilots into
the inhibitor-spring spacer. Remove the guide pin. With the shaft in the neutral
position, install the bolt and lock in the neutral position, install the bolt and lock
through the detent shift lever. Bend a tab of the lock over the bolt head so that the
bolt will not come loose.
8. Install the fork shaft through the synchronizer forks and into the bore of the case.
9. Carefully install the ring – gear – and – differential – case assembly.
10. Install the magnet if it has been removed.
11. Apply a thin bead of the special sealer which is used instead of a gasket. The bead
should be applied to the clutch cover. Then install the cover on the transaxle case.
Use dowel pins to guide the cover into position. Tap the cover gently with a soft
hammer to ensure that the parts are seated.
12. Install the 15 attaching bolts and torque to specifications.
13. Torque the idler – shaft retaining bolt to specifications.
14. Shift through the gear ranges to make sure the internal parts move freely.
15. After installing the transaxle on the vehicle and adjusting the linkages , road test the
car to make sure the transaxle is working properly.

Installing the transaxle on vehicle

The installation of the General Motors Transaxle is basically the reverse of removal. These
special points should be watched:

1. When installing the transaxle, position the right drive – axle shaft in its bore as the
transaxle is being moved into place. This shaft cannot be installed after the transaxle
is connected to the engine.
2. When the transaxle is fastened to the engine, swing the cradle into position and
immediately install the cradle – to – body bolts. After this step, installation can be
completed by reversing the removal procedure.
3. When moving the cradle back into the installed position, be sure to guide the left
drive axle into the case bore.

Adjusting the transaxle gearshift linkage

After installation of the transaxle is complete, connect and adjust the shift cables as follows:

54
 1. Shift the transaxle into first gear. At the control assembly, with the shifter boot and
retainer off, install two pins (5/32-inch [3.8-mm] or No. 22 drill bits) in the alignment
holes in the control assembly. This will keep the transaxle in first gear. Then attach
the two shift cables to the control assembly with studs and pin retainers. Be sure the
cables are routed correctly and operate freely.
2. Make sure the transaxle is still in first gear by pushing the rail selector shaft inward
(down) until you feel the resistance of the inhibitor spring. Then rotate the shift lever
fully counterclockwise.
3. Install the stud (with cable A attached) in the slotted area in shift lever F. Install the
stud (with cable B attached) in the slotted area of selector lever D, while lightly
pulling on lever D to remove lash. Remove the two drill bits or pins and road test the
car. Make sure that the shift lever feels free in neutral during shifting. This is
described as having a good neutral – gate feel. Make any slight additional adjustment
necessary.

Drive lines
Purpose of drive shafts

In order to connect the output shaft of the Transmission to the drive pinion of the differential, a
drive, or propeller, shaft must be used. In order to compensate for the up-and-down motion of
the differential and rear axle (as the wheels encounter irregularities in the road) and load
conditions, the drive shaft must be connected to the Transmission or differential by at least one
flexible or universal joint, figure 4.54.

55
Figure 4.54 Drive shaft and drive angles

In addition to changes because of road irregularities and load variations, there is a further change
in drive – shaft angles caused by the application of engine torque. This torque is called rear –
end torque.

Rear – end torque - is the tendency of the drive shaft to rotate around the rear axle in the
opposite direction to the axle shaft and wheel, figure 4.55.

Figure 4.55 Rear – End Torque

Rear – end torque is very powerful. This is illustrated by the tendency of the front end of a
vehicle to rise when power is suddenly applied to the rear wheels.

Rear – end torque is transferred from the pinion shaft, to the axle housing, to the leaf springs or,
when coil springs are used, to the torque rods. Both the springs and torque rods are anchored to
the frame. When the leaf springs are used to transfer rear – end torque to the frame, flexing and
distortion of the spring results. This flexing and distortion will allow the front end of the pinion
shaft to lower, thus changing the angle between the pinion shaft and the drive shaft, figure 4.56.

Figure 4.56 Methods of Transferring Rear – End Torque to Frame

56
The drive shaft is made of quality steel tubing to promote light mass, and has a diameter large
enough to impart great strength, figure 4.57. Two universal yokes or a yoke and a spline stub are
welded to the ends of the tube. The assembly must run true and be carefully balanced to avoid
vibration. Since the drive shaft can turn at engine speed, a great deal of damage can be done if
the shaft is bent or unbalanced, or if the universal joints are worn.

Figure 4.57 Drive Shaft Tubes

The Hotchkiss Drive Shaft

The Hotchkiss drive shaft is a hollow steel tube with a universal or flexible joint attached to each
end, figure 4.58. The shaft is not encased in any cover; hence the term open drive shaft. One
universal joint, usually the front, is designed to compensate for changes of length in the drive
shaft. Both universal joints are used to compensate for the changes in the drive – shaft angle as
the wheel encounters irregularities in the road. This type of drive shaft is not designed to absorb
any rear – end torque. Instead, this action is transferred to the frame through the rear – spring
front shackle and the rear springs.

Figure 4.58 Hotchkiss Drive Shaft

Rubber – Element Drive Shaft

In the rubber – element type drive shaft, one of the universal – joint yokes is not welded to the
drive tube, figure 4.59. Instead, the yoke is welded to a separate piece of steel tubing. This
rubbing, which has several rubber rings bonded to it, is slightly smaller in diameter than the drive
– shaft tube. The smaller tube and yoke are then pressed into one end of the drive shaft.

57
Figure 4.59 Rubber Element Drive Shaft

The rubber rings between the two tubes are now under so much compression that the two tubes
are locked together but isolated from one another. The rubber element prevents noise from
“telegraphing” up and down the drive shaft.

The Torque – Tube Drive Shaft

In the torque – tube drive shaft the propeller shaft is enclosed in a hollow steel tube, figure 4.60.
This tube is bolted to the differential housing and is attached to the Transmission case by a
flexible or universal joint. This universal joint is free to slide on the propeller shaft to
compensate for the changes in length, as well as changes in the angle between the drive shaft and
the differential housing as the rear wheels encounter irregularities in the road. The torque tube
absorbs the rear – end torque action and transfers this action through the Transmission, motor,
and motor mounts, to the frame.

With a torque – tube drive the engine is usually mounted as low as possible in the frame, or
mounted on an angle with the front of the engine higher than the rear. Some vehicles using
Hotchkiss drives also have the engine tilted in the same manner. The tilting is used to obtain as
straight a line as possible for power Transmission. Power is always lost by any angularity in the
driveline.

Figure 4.60 Torque – Tube Drive Shaft

58
Two – Piece Drive Shafts

The introduction of the automobiles with longer wheel bases made it necessary to adopt the truck
– type two – piece drive shaft, with its center support bearing, figure 4.61. Long drive shafts
have a tendency to vibrate and whip. Dividing the shaft in two and adding the center support
reduces this tendency. The two halves of the drive shaft are joined together by a slip joint

Figure 4.61 Two – Piece Drive Shaft

The center support bearing consists of a ball bearing held in a dust – proof housing. The housing
is attached to the frame. Rubber is usually incorporated in the mount to reduce noise and
vibration. The rubber will also allow some movement of the shaft without binding.

Universal Joints

A. Cross – And Roller Universal Joint

This joint is basically a double – hinged joint. It consists of two yokes and a cross – shaped
center joint, figure 4.62.

59
Figure 4.62 Typical Rear Cross And Roller Universal Joint

The yokes are attached to the driving and driven units and are connected together by the center
joint, figure 4.63. The drive is transferred from the first yoke to the cross – shaped piece, or
spider, and then to the second yoke. Small roller bearings are usually placed between the arms,
or trunnions, of the spider and the yokes. These bearings not only transmit the drive, but also
permit the yokes to turn freely on the spider as the joint rotates when the driving shaft is at
different angle to the driven shaft.

Figure 4.63 Typical Sliding - Yoke Type Universal Joint

Slip Joints

Slip joints are used to compensate for the changes in drive – shaft length that result from the up-
and- down movement of the rear axle as it encounters irregularities in the road or varying load

60
conditions. When the axle moves up and down, it swings on an arc that is different from that of
the driveline. This difference in arcs results in slight changes in the distance between the
Transmission and the differential.

A slip joint is a universal joint in which one yoke is not rigidly attached to one of the rotating
members. Instead, it is attached to the shaft by means of a spline. A spline is like an internal –
and external – gear set. The outside splines are cut on the shaft, while the internal splines are cut
in the mating hollow section of the universal joint. The splines are cut long enough to permit the
shaft to change its length, as required by the spring action, without coming out of the mesh and
stopping the rotating action. One end of the drive shaft, usually the Transmission end, is always
equipped with a slip – joint type of universal.

Constant – Velocity Joints

A constant – velocity joint is a joint designed to produce even transfer of torque without speed
fluctuations.

A simple universal joint will operate efficiently through small angles only. When a large angle
is encountered in a drive – line, a simple universal joint will introduce two vibrations per
revolution. It is in this type of situation that a constant velocity universal joint is used.

The constant velocity joint is two simple yoke – and – cross universal joints closely coupled by a
coupling yoke, phased properly for constant velocity.

A centering ball socket between the joints maintains the relative position of the two joints. This
centering device causes each of the two joints to operate through one – half of the complete
angle between the drive shaft and the differential carrier. Since the two joints are now operating
at the same angle, the acceleration of the other.

Removing the Driveline from the vehicle

A. One- Piece Type –

To remove a one-piece driveline, proceed as follows:

1. Remove both U-bolts or clamps from the pinion yoke.

2. Mark the relation of the slip yoke and the drive flange so that they may be installed in
their original positions. This maintains the balance of the assembly. Some
manufacturers provide a key to prevent installing in any but the correct position.
3. Disconnect the front universal joint from the Transmission flange and slide the driveline
to the rear until the front slip yoke clears the Transmission housing and seal.

Caution:
Do not allow the driveline to drop or hang loose on the vehicle from either joint during
removal. Wire it up to the underbody.

61
B. Two- piece Type –

A two-piece driveline must be removed as a unit.

Note:

During handling out of the car, the assembly must be supported in as straight line as possible to
avoid jamming or bending any of the parts.

1. Remove the bolts from the center bearing attaching plate.

2. Remove the U-bolts (or clamps) from the rear universal joint. Mark both the flange and
the driveline to insure assembly in the same position.
Caution:

If the rear universal- joint bearings are not retained on the spider (cross) by a connecting strap,
use tape for wire to secure the bearings.

3. Support the rear end of the driveline to avoid damage to the constant- velocity joint, and
slide the complete assembly to the rear until the slip yoke slides out of the splines in the
Transmission output driveline.
4. Protect the oil seal surface on the slip yoke by taping or wiring a cloth over the entire
front universal joint.
5. Slide the entire driveline assembly to the rear and out from under the vehicle. Do not
bend the constant-velocity joint to its extreme angle at any time.

Disassembling Drive Line Parts

1. Put match marks on shaft and flange or yoke.

2. Remove snap ring.
3. Remove pushed out spider bearing by lightly tapping yoke with a hammer, taking
care not to damage journal and yoke hole.
4. Remove bearing at opposite side in above operation.

Inspecting the Driveline parts

Procedure

1. Undercoating, mud, or any foreign material on one side of the driveline can throw it out
of balance. A dent in the steel wall of the driveline can also cause it to vibrate. The
driveline should be inspected visually for these problems.
2. Driveline vibrations may also be due to loose universal joint flange bolts or bent
components in the universal joints. These parts should be inspected visually and replaced
as necessary.
3. Runout or too much wobble of the driveline is measured with a dial indicator at both ends
of the driveline, just forward or behind the balance weight(s).
4. Clean paint and any undercoating from the driveline in those areas.

62
 5. Attach a dial indicator support to stud or C-clamp. Mount the dial indicator so the stylus
is at a right angle to the driveline. To get an accurate reading, rotate the driveline by light
downward hand pressure applied at the middle of the driveline. Runout greater than0.25
mm is unacceptable. Replace the driveline if runout is excessive at the front end.
6. If runout at the front is acceptable, measure runout at the rear. Attach the dial indicator
support to the rear hosing pinion boss. Mount the dial indicator so the stylus is at a right
angle to the driveline. Rotate the driveline to measure runout.
7. If the reading is unacceptable, disconnect the driveline, rotate either the driveline or the
rear yoke 1800, and reconnect the driveline. Measure the runout at the rear again.
Record the amount of runout you measure.
8. Road test the vehicle and check for vibration on deceleration.

Reassembling Drive Line Parts

To assemble reverse the disassembling procedure using reference marks in disassembly.

1. Assemble spider bearing. Apply recommended multi-purpose grease on bearing

inner surface.

Note: When assembling, be careful that needle bearing does not fall down.

2. Select snap ring that will provide specified play in axial direction of journal, and
install them.
3. Adjust thrust clearance between bearing and snap ring to zero by tapping yoke.
4. Check to see that journal moves smoothly and check for axial play.

Installing the Drive Line on Vehicle

To install, reverse the removal process using reference marks in removal.

Balancing Driveline

If the driveline is out of balance and the vehicle has been undercoated, remove any undercoat
from the driveline. Then road test the vehicle. If the problem still exists, disconnect the
driveline and rotate it 1800. Then reconnect the driveline and road test the vehicle again. If these
two steps do not eliminate the vibration, proceed as follows.

Note:

There are two methods of checking for balance, a mechanical method and a method using a
stroboscopic light. The mechanical method is described here

Mechanical Method:

The mechanical method uses a crayon or pencil to mark the driveline while it is rotating.

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 1. Raise the vehicle on a twin-post lift so that the rear of the vehicle is supported on the
rear-axle housing with the wheels free to rotate. Remove the wheels to eliminate any
wheel-and-tire-assembly unbalance.
2. With the Transmission in high gear, open the throttle until the speedometer is showing
about 50mph[80 km/h].
3. Carefully bring a crayon or colored pencil up close to the rear end of the driveline. Use a
stand to support and steady your hand, or use a suitable run out indicator for making the
mark.

Caution:

Avoid working near any balance weights on the driveline. The spinning weight can easily cut
your hand.

Careful:

Do not run the engine faster than 55 mph [89 km/h] and do not run it for long periods. This will
overheat the engine and Transmission.

4. When the crayon barely touches the rotating driveline, it will make a mark, which
indicates the heavy spot, or run out of the driveline.
5. Stop the engine and install two screw-type hose clamps on the driveline so that their
heads are just opposite the crayon mark. The hose- clamp heads should now be the heavy
spot on the driveline.
6. Tighten the clamps. With the Transmission in high gear, increase the speed to 60mph [97
km/h] for a short time. If no vibration is felt, install the wheels, lower the vehicle, and
road test it.
7. If unbalance still exists, rotate the two clamp heads away from each other in equal
amounts and try again. Repeat this until balance is achieved. Install the wheels and road
test the vehicle to make sure the problem has been eliminated.

Careful:

You cannot install hose clamps on the driveline of some cars. There is too little clearance
between the driveline and the tunnel in the floor-pan when the wheels are in the full, or up,
position. Ford Motor Company warns against using those clamps on the drivelines of their
Fairmount and Zephyr models. On these, to correct for out of balance, disconnect the driveline
at the rear and turn the driveline 450. If this does not cure the problem, turn it another 450. If
these procedure doses not solve the problem, a new driveline may be required.

Servicing Universal- joints

A. Cross- and-Roller Type

Removing Cross- and-Roller Type Universal- joint

To remove a cross- and – roller type of universal joint, proceed as follows:

64
 1. Remove the retainers that hold the bearings in the yoke and driveline.
2. Place the joint in a vise or press.
3. Select a socket (from a socket-wrench set) with an outside diameter slightly smaller than
that of the outside diameter of the joint bearings. Select another socket with an inside
diameter slightly larger than the outside of the bearing.
4. Place the sockets at opposite bearings so that the smaller socket becomes a bearing driver
and the larger socket becomes a bearing receiver as the jaws of the vise come together.
5. Close the vise jaws until the spider (cross) contacts the yoke. Take the drive shaft from
the vise and remove the one bearing with pliers.
6. Reverse the sockets and press the opposite bearing out in the same manner.
7. Remove the spider from the yoke. Remove the remaining two bearings in the same
manner.

Inspecting Cross- and-Roller Type Universal- joint

1. Clean the parts in kerosene, mineral spirits, or other suitable solvent, and dry with
compressed air.
2. Inspect the bearing surfaces of the spider. The surface should be smooth and free from
pits or ripples. If either are present, or if the dust seal retainers are damaged, replace the
spider assembly.
3. Inspect the bearings. All bearings should have a uniform appearance and should roll
freely inside the bushings. If they do not, or if they have operated on a worn spider, they
should be replaced.
Assembling Cross- and-Roller Type Universal- joint

1. Force recommended lubricant (usually wheel-bearing grease) between the rollers in all
four bushings. Fill the reservoirs (if present) in the ends of the cross.
2. Place the cross in the driveline yoke and insert the roller bushing assemblies in the yoke.
3. Press the roller and bushing assemblies into the yoke while guiding the spider into both
bushings.
4. Press until the bushing retainers can be installed in the grooves in the bushings.
5. Position the remaining two bushings on the spider and install the retainer strap (if so
equipped) to hold them in place during installation in the vehicle.

B. Ball-and-Trunnion Type

Removing Ball-and-Trunnion Type Universal- joint

To remove ball-and-trunnion type universal joint, proceed as follows:

1. Straighten the tabs on the grease cover, and remove it and the gasket.
2. Push the body back to expose the trunnion pin. Remove the parts from both ends of the
trunnion pin.
3. Remove the clamps and loosen the dust cover. Remove and save the breather (polished
jute) located between the driveline and rear end of the cover.

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Inspecting Ball-and-Trunnion Type Universal- joint

1. Clean and inspect the trunnion pin and raceways in the body for wear. If wear can be
felt, the body should be replaced. Replacement of either the pin or the body requires a
special tool and a hydraulic press to push the pin out of the driveline.
2. Clean all parts in kerosene, mineral spirits, or other suitable solvent. If the pin, body, and
boot have not been removed, make sure the boot and body are clean inside as well as
outside.

Assembling Ball-and-Trunnion Type Universal- joint

1. If necessary to install a new boot, coat all parts of the joint assembly with recommended
lubricant. Without using tools, stretch the boot over the pin and work it through the body
into position on the driveline.
2. Install a thrust washer, rollers, ball, button spring, and thrust button on each end of the
trunnion pin and position the body over the pin assembly.
3. Position the boot on the driveline, with the breather (polished jute) parallel to the
driveline. Install and tighten the clamp.
4. Position the boot on the joint body and install the clamp.
5. Lubricate the universal joint with the correct amount of recommended lubricant applied
evenly in both raceways, one-half of the grease back of the trunnion pin and one-half
between the pin and cover. Do not use more than the specified amount and do not place
grease inside the boot.
6. Install the gasket on the grease cover, and position the cover on the body with tabs at the
grooves. Bend the tabs to tighten the cover in place.

C. Constant- Velocity Type

Removing Constant- Velocity Type Universal- joint

To remove a constant-velocity type of universal joint, proceed as follows:

1. Mark all yokes before disassembly so they may be reassembled in their original positions
to maintain proper balance.
Note:

For ease of disassembly, remove the bearings from the link yoke first.

2. Remove the snap rings from the bearings.

3. Press out the bearings with a hydraulic press and special fixture.
4. Install a special guide through the bearing hole in the link yoke and over the journal end
of the spider. This guide aligns the spider while removing the opposite bearing.
5. Remove the bearing
6. Repeat this procedure to remove other bearings until the unit is disassembled to the point
desired or until the spider can be slipped out of the link yoke.

66
 7. To remove the ball-stud seat, position the driveline yoke in a vise so that the seat is
accessible.
8. Pry out the seal with a screwdriver, and remove the seal washer, ball seat, seat washer,
and ball-seat spring.

Inspecting Constant- Velocity Type Universal- joint

1. Inspect the ball stud and seats for scores or wear. Replacement kits are available for
worn seats. A damaged ball stud requires replacement of the splined yoke, of which it is
a part.
2. Clean out the seat cavity and pack with recommended lubricant.

Assembling Constant- Velocity Type Universal- joint

1. Install the ball-seat spring, small end first. Install seat washer, seats, and seal washer.
Apply Permatex to the outer diameter of the seal and install the seal with its lip toward
the seat.
2. Stake the seal lightly and evenly in four places. Take care not to damage or distort the
seal.
3. Pack the cavity around the ball stud with recommended lubricant.
4. Replace any worn or damaged parts in the constant- velocity joint. Repair kits containing
a spider, 4 bearings, and 4 snap rings are available. Always install a complete repair kit.
5. Make certain that all the rollers are present in the bearings, that the bearings are properly
packed with recommended lubricant, and that the seals are in position.
6. Reassemble the constant-velocity joint, taking care to prevent the bearing needles from
becoming dislodged or burring the edge of the spider journals. Move the spider back and
forth while pressing the bearings into position to make certain the spider journals engage
the bearings squarely to avoid damage and binding. If binding exists, remove the
bearings and spider and examine for dislodged rollers or damaged journals.
7. Strike the yoke with a hammer to fully seat the snap rings against the yoke. Turn the
spider to make certain it is free.

Differentials
Function of the Differential:

A differential is required to compensate for the difference in distance that are rear wheels travel
when the car rounds a curve. If a right angle turn were made with the inner rear wheel turning
on a 6m radium, the inner rear wheel would travel about 9.5m while the outer rear wheel would
travel about 11.9m. The differential permits application of power to both rear wheels while
allowing the wheels to turn different amounts when the car is rounding a curve.

Construction of the Differential:

To study differential construction and operation, we shall build up, gear by gear a simple
differential. The two rear wheels are mounted on axles. On the inner ends of the axles are bevel

67
gears, which are called “differential slide gears.” All the teeth are at an angle. When two
bevel gears are put together so that their teeth mesh, the driving and driven shafts can be at a 90-
degree angle.

In the differential case, the two wheel axle and bevel (differential side) gears are meshed
together. The differential case has bearings that permit it to rotate on the two axle. Next the two
pinion gears and the supporting shaft, the shaft fits with the differential case. The two pinion
gears are meshed with the differential side gears.

Note:

Actually, the two pinion gear are also bevel gears, but we call them pinion gears. So as not to
confuse them with bevel gears (differential side gears) on the ends of the axle.

The ring gear is bolted to the flung on the differential case. Finally we have the drive pinion, the
drive pinion is at the end of the drive shaft (drive line). When the drive shaft rotates, the drive
pinion rotates, which rotates the ring gear.

Operation of the Differential:

The drive pinion on the end of the drive shaft drives the ring gear. The rotation of the ring gear
causes the differential case to rotate. When the differential case rotates, the two pinion gears and
their shaft move around in a circle with the differential case. Because the two differential side
gears are meshed with the pinion gears. The differential side gears must rotate. This causes the
rear axles to rotate. The wheels turn, and the car moves.

Suppose one rear wheel turns slower than the other as the car rounds a curve. As the differential
case rotates, the pinion gears must rotate on their shafts. The reason for this is that the pinion
gears must walk around the slower-turning differential side gear. Thus, the pinion gears carry
additional rotary motion to the faster turning outer wheel on the turn. The differential-case speed
is considered to be 100 percent. If rotating action of the pinion gear carries 90 percent of this
speed to the slower-rotating inner wheel then it sends 110 percent of the speed to the faster
rotating outer wheel. Whenever the car goes around a turn the outer rear wheel travels a greater
distance than the inner rear wheel. The two pinion gears rotate on their shaft. They apply equal
torque to the bevel gears. Therefore, both rear wheels rotate at the same speed.

When the car moves down a straight road, the pinion gears do not rotate on their shaft. They
apply equal torque to the bevel gears. Therefore, both rear wheels rotate at the same speed.

Differential Gearing:

Since the ring gear has many more teeth than the drive pinion, a considerable gear reduction is
produced in the differential. The gear ratios vary somewhat on different cars depending on car
and engine design. Ratios from 2.75:1 upward to about 5:1 are used on passenger cars. This
means that the ring gear has from 2.75 to 5 times as many teeth as the drive pinion so that the
drive pinion must rotate from 2.75 to 5 times in order to cause the ring gear to rotate once for

68
heavy duty applications. Such a large trucks ratios of about 9:1 may be used. Such high ratios
are secured by use of double “reduction.” gearing.

The gear ratio in differential is usually referred to as the “axle ratio”, although it would be more
accurate to call it the “differential ratio.”

Early cars used simple spur-gear-type of gearing. A latter design made use of spiral bevel gears
in which the teeth have a curved or spiral shape. This shape permits contact between more than
one pair of teeth at a time: more even wear and quieter operation result at a time: Extension of
the centerline of the drive-pinion shaft would intersect the axle centerline.

Modern car design features low bodies, which has created the problem of interference between
the drive shaft and the floor of the car body. In order to permit further lowering of the car body
without interference with the drive shaft, hypoid differential gears are used. These gears are
somewhat similar to the spiral bevel gears except that the tooth formation allows the drive pinion
shaft to be lowered. In this type of gear a wiping action takes place between the teeth as the
teeth mesh and unmesh. This wiping action, which is characteristic of hypoid gears, makes the
use of special hypoid gear lubricants necessary.

In fig. 1 shows gear-tooth nomenclature. The mating teeth to the left illustrate clearance and
backlash and the tooth part named.

“Clearance” is the distance between the top of the tooth of one gear and the valley between
adjacent teeth of the mating gear.

“Back Lash” is the distance between adjacent meshing teeth in the driving pinion gears: It is
the distance one gear can rotate backward or backlash, before it will cause the outer gear to
move. The “toe” is the smaller section of the gear tooth. The “heel” is the larger section of the
gear tooth.

Double - Reduction Differentials

In order to secure additional gear reduction through the differential and thus provide a higher
gear ratio between the engine and the rear wheels, some heavy-duty applications use Double
Reduction Differential. In this type of differential the drive pinion meshes with a ring gear
assembled to a straight shaft on which there is a reduction-drive gear set. The reduction drive
gear set drives a driven gear set that has a greater number of gear teeth. Gear reduction is thus
obtained between the drive pinion and the ring gear and also between the two-reduction gear set.

The driven gear set is attached to the differential case, the case being supported by bearings in
the differential housing in a manner similar to the differential discussed above.

The double gear reduction type uses a spiral bevel gear meshed with a comparatively small ring
gear for the primary reduction, figure 4.64. The ring gear is assembled to a straight shaft on
which there is a reduction - gear set that provides either one or two choices of secondary
reduction. The reduction gear set consists of two pair of helical gears of different gear ratios,

69
separated by a shifting device, to lock either driving gear to the ring-gear shaft. The large driven
gear of the helical gear set is connected to a conventional type of differential case. The drive and
the differential action between the differential case and the axle shaft is the same as a
conventional differential.

Figure 4.64 Double - reduction Differentials

The driver, by operating the shifter mechanism, can move the driven helical gears in and out of
mesh to select the desired high speed or low speed gear ratio.

Limited Slip (Non-slip) Differentials

The standard differential delivers the same amount of torque to each rear wheel when both
wheels have equal traction. When one wheel has less traction than the other, for example, when
one wheel slips on ice, the other wheel cannot deliver torque. All the turning effort goes to the
slipping wheel. To provide good traction even though one wheel is slipping, a limited slip
differential is used in many cars. It is very similar to the standard unit but has some means of
preventing wheel spin and loss of traction. The standard differential delivers maximum torque to
the wheel with minimum traction. The limited-slip differential delivers maximum torque to the
wheel with maximum traction.

One type of limited-slip differential (V-ramp) type has two sets of clutch plates, figure 4.65 and
4.66. The ends of the pinion gear shafts lie loosely in notches in the two halves of the
differential case.

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Figure 4.65 section view of V-ramp type limited slip differential

There are two other types of limited slip differential. One type has spring loaded clutch plates,
the other has spring loaded clutch cones. The action is the same. The basic difference is that the
plates or cones are preloaded by springs. This provides a quicker locking action.

Figure 4.66-exploded view of limited slip differential

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The most straightforward form of differential lock is a manually - or pedal - operated dog clutch.
When engaged, it connects one-half shaft with the differential casing. This prevents the
differential bevel gears from running round the differential side gears and locks the complete
final drive into a single rigid unit. A full differential lock of this type must be disengaged as
soon as it is no longer needed or else the wheels will scrub on any high-grip surface, the vehicle
will skid on corners and the drive train will be exposed to severe wind-up loads.

The full differential lock is unsuitable for fast vehicles, and is only fitted to heavy trucks, special-
purpose commercial vehicles and tractors.

Differential Trouble and Remedies

Service problems with differentials usually are limited to lubricant leakage at the drive pinion oil
seal or noisy operation of the differential.

Lubricant leakage can be caused by too high a lubricant level, plugged rear axle vent, worn
pinion oil seal, or damaged gaskets.

The most common differential complaint is noise. The differential should not be disassembled
until a thorough diagnosis is made of the trouble and the symptoms observed during the
operation of the vehicle. Care must be exercised to determine if the noise originates in the
differential or if it is caused by the engine, tires, Transmission, wheel bearings, or some other
part of the vehicle. Some clues as to the cause of the trouble may be obtained by noting whether
the noise is produced while the vehicle is being driven straight ahead or on turns only.

A humming noise is often caused by incorrect internal adjustment of the drive pinion or the ring
gear. Incorrect adjustment prevents normal tooth contact and can cause rapid tooth wear and
early failure of the differential. The humming noise will take on a growling sound as the wear
progresses.

Noise that is louder when the car is accelerating probably means there is heavy contact on the
heel ends of the gear teeth. Noise that is louder when the car is coasting probably means there is
heavy toe contact.

If the noise is heard only when the car is going around a curve, the trouble is inside the
differential case. Pinion gears tight on the pinion shaft, damaged gears on pinions, too much
backlash between gears, or worn differential- case bearings can cause this trouble. When the car
rounds a curve, these parts inside the differential case are moving relative to each other.

Noise on curves could also be due to a defective axle bearing. During a turn, the outside bearing
takes an increased load. The limited slip differential requires a special type of lubricant. The
wrong lubricant can cause the clutch surface to grab. This will produce chattering noise during a
turn. The remedy is to drain the old lubricant and put in the specified lubricant designed for
limited slip differentials.

72
Wheel spin can occur under some conditions even if the differential is in good condition. For
example, if one wheel is on dry pavement and the other is on smooth ice, sudden acceleration
can produce wheel spin. The remedy is to open the throttle slowly to allow the differential to
lock.
Differential Diagnostic Chart
TROUBLE CAUSE REMEDY
Noise in drive and coast  Road noise.  No correction.
 Tire noise.  Correct tire inflation
pressure or replace tires.
 Front wheel bearing noise.  Correct as needed,
lubricate or replace.
 Front or rear U-joint angle  Correct angle.
incorrect.

Similar noise is produced with  Engine noise  Inspect and correct as

car standing and driving required.
 Transmission noise  Inspect and correct as
required
Vibration  Rough rear wheel bearing  Replace.
 Unbalanced or damaged  Replace
propeller shaft.
 Tire unbalance.  Balance tires.
 Worn universal joint in  Replace.
propeller shaft.
 Front or rear U-joint angle  Correct angle.
too great.
Noise most pronounced on  Differential side gear and  Replace.
turns. pinion.
 Axle bearing.  Replace.
Drive noise, coast noise.  Ring and pinion gear.  Replace
Clunk on acceleration or  Worn differential cross shaft  Replace as needed.
deceleration in case.
 Worn U-joint.  Replace.
 No grease in propeller shaft  Lubricate.
slip yoke
Groan in “Forward” or  Wrong lube in differential.  Drain and fill with proper
“Reverse” lubricant.

Chatter on turns  Wrong lube in differential.  Drain and fill with proper
lubricant.
 Clutch plates worn.  Repair differential as
needed.

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Removing the differential assembly from the vehicle
(Example for differential service is taken from NISSAN PICK UP MODEL 720
SERIES H 190 A Manual Transmission vehicle)

1. Jack up rear of car and support it by placing safety stands under rear axle case.
2. Remove drain plug and drain gear oil.
3. Separate propeller shafts and remove rear axle shafts.
4. Take out differential carrier from rear axle case.
5. Mount differential carrier on the recommended special tool.

Pre-Disassembly Inspection

1. Check backlash of ring gear with a dial indicator at several points. If it is not within
specification adjust the bearing, figure 4.67.

Figure 4.67 checking backlash with a dial indicator

2. Check runout of ring gear with a dial indicator, figure 4.68. If it is over specification,
hypoid gear set or differential case should be replaced. When backlash varies
excessively in different places, the variance may have resulted from foreign matter
caught between ring gear and differential case.

74
 Figure 4.68 checking runout of ring gear with a dial indicator

3. Check tooth contact.

4. Check backlash of side gear, figure 4.69. If it is not within specification, adjust it by
selecting side gear thrust washer.

Figure 4.69 checking backlash of side gear

Tooth Contact

Gear tooth contact pattern check is necessary to verify correct relationship between ring gear
and drive pinion.

Hypoid gear set which are not positioned properly may be noisy, or have short life or
both. With a pattern check, the most desirable contact for low noise level and long life
can be assured.

Check

1. Thoroughly clean ring gear and drive pinion teeth.

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 2. Sparingly apply a mixture of powdered ferric oxide and oil or equivalent to 3 or 4
teeth of ring gear drive side, figure 4.70.

Figure 4.70 applying a mixture of powdered ferric oxide and oil

3. Hold companion flange steady by hand and rotate the ring gear in both directions,
figure 4.71.

Figure 4.71 rotating the ring gear

Adjustment

Usually the pattern will be correct if you have calculated the shims correctly and the backlash is
correct. However, in extremely rare cases you will have to use trial-and-error processes until
you get a good tooth contact pattern.
The tooth pattern is the best indication of how well a differential has been set up.

Final Verification

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 1. Check backlash of ring gear with a dial indicator.
If backlash is too small, decrease thickness of left side bearing adjusting washer and
increase thickness of right side bearing adjusting washer by the same amount.

If backlash is too gear, reverse the above procedure.

Note
Never add or remove from the total amount of side bearing adjusting washer or bearing preload
will be changed.

2. Check total preload.

When checking preload, turn drive pinion in both directions several times to set
bearing rollers, figure 4.72.

Figure 4.72 checking preload

If preload is too great, remove the same amount of shims from each side. If preload
is too small, add the same amount of shims to each side.

3. Check runout of gear with a dial indicator.

If backlash varies excessively in different places, the variance may have resulted from
foreign matter caught between the ring gear and the differential case.

If the backlash varies greatly when the runout of the ring gear is within a specified
range, the hypoid gear set or differential case should be replaced.
4. Finally, check for tooth contact pattern. Refer to Tooth Contact

Gasket should be replaced by new one each time the differential carrier is removed.

Disassembly differential

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 When disassembling or assembling the unit, be careful to observe the following points.

a. Bearing caps are line-board during manufacture and should be put back in their original
places.
b. Be careful to keep the side bearing outer races together with inner race – don‟t mix them up.
c. The following parts should be replaced by new ones each time they are removed.
 Gasket
 Oil seals
 Collapsible spacer
 Lock strap
d. Be careful not to confuse left and right hand parts.
e. To prevent damage to bearing, engage puller paws with groove.
f. When removing or installing ring gear, loosen or tighten the bolts in a crisscross fashion.
g. Put marks on gears and thrust washers so that they can be reinstalled in their original
positions from which they were removed.
h. Thoroughly clean the surfaces on which spacer, washers, bearings and bearing caps are
installed.
i. Apply gear oil when installing bearings.
j. Pack recommended multi-purpose grease into cavity between lips when fitting oil seal.

Caution
The preload is achieved by using the permanent set of collapsible spacer. So here, if an
over-preload results from excessive turning of the pinion nut, the spacer should be
replaced by new one.

Inspecting differential parts

Replace all parts that do not pass inspection.

Thoroughly clean all parts. Synthetic seals must not be cleaned, soaked, or washed in cleaning
solvents. Always use clean solvent when cleaning bearings. Oil the bearings immediately after
cleaning to prevent rushing. Inspect the parts for defects. Clean the inside of the carrier before
rebuilding it. When a scored gear set is replaced, the axle housing should be washed thoroughly
and steam cleaned. This can only be done effectively if the axle shafts and shaft seals are
removed from the housing. Inspect individual parts as outlined below.
a. Gears
Examine the pinion and ring gear teeth for scoring or excessive wear. Extreme care must be
taken not to damage the pilot-bearing surface of the pinion. Worn gears cannot be rebuilt to
correct a noisy condition. Gear scoring is the result of excessive shock loading or the use of an
incorrect lubricant. Scored gears cannot be reused. Examine the teeth and thrust surfaces of the
differential gears. Wear on the hub of the differential gear can cause a checking noise known as
chuckle when the vehicle is driven at low speeds. Wear of splines, thrust surfaces, or thrust
washers can contribute to excessive driveline backlash.

b. Bearing Cups, Cone and Roller Assemblies

78
Check bearing cups for ridges, scores, or excessive wear patterns. Pinion cups must be solidly
seated.

When operated in the bearing cups, cone and roller assemblies must turn without roughness.
Examine the large roller ends for wear. If the original blend radius has worn to a sharp edge, the
cone and roller assembly should be replaced.

c. Universal Joint Flange

Be sure that the surfaces of the flange have not been damaged in removing the drive shaft or in
removing the flange from the axle. The end of the flange that contacts the front pinion bearing
inner race, as well as the flat surface of the pinion nut counter bore, must be smooth. Polish
these surfaces if necessary. Roughness aggravates backlash noises and causes wear of the flange
and pinion nut, with a resultant loss in pinion bearing preload. Flange seal surface must be
smooth and not grooved due to wear from seal contact.

d. Carrier Housing
Make sure that the differential bearing bores are smooth and the threads are not damaged.
Remove any nicks or burrs from the mounting surfaces of the carrier housing.

e. Differential Case
Make sure that the hubs where the bearings mount are smooth. Carefully examine the
differential case bearing shoulders, which may have been damaged when the bearings were
removed. The bearing assemblies will fail if they do not seat firmly against the shoulders.
Check the fit (free rotation) of the differential side gears in their counter bores. Be sure that the
mating surfaces of the two parts of the case are smooth and free from nicks or burrs.

f. Non- slip Differential Parts

Inspect the clutch plates for uneven or extreme wear. The dog-eared clutch plates must be free
from burrs, nicks, or scratches, which could cause excessive or erratic wear to the internally
splined clutch plates. The internally splined clutch plates should be inspected for condition of
the material and wear. Replace the plates if their thickness is less than specified or if the
material is scored or badly worn. Inspect the plate internal teeth for wear. Replace them if
excessive wear is evident. Plates should be replaced as a set only. Examine all thrust surfaces
and hubs for wear. Abnormal wear on these surfaces can contribute to a noisy axle.

Reassembling differential

1. Assemble differential case, clutches (if applicable), ring gear, and bearings.
2. Install pinion-bearing cups.
3. Install drive pinion spacer and bearings as outlined in service manual using pinion depth
setting gauge to ensure proper pinion depth adjustment.
4. Install pinion seal and drive flange.
5. Install drive pinion nut to specified torque to ensure correct pinion bearing preload.

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6. Install differential case assembly by following specifications regarding shim packs at each
side to provide correct side bearing preload and gear backlash.
7. Install bearing retaining caps and bolts to specified torque.
8. Recheck ring gear backlash and run-out to make sure they remain within specifications.
9. If desired, a tooth pattern check may be made at this point. Follow manufacturer‟s service
manual for procedure.
10. Install axle shafts, differential pinions, shaft, and shaft retainer as required. Install wheels.
11. Install differential cover using gasket or recommended sealer. Tighten bolts to
specifications.
12. Fill unit to specified level with lubricant specified by manufacturer.
Install drive shaft.

Adjusting differential

Side Bearing Adjustment

When the differential case, side bearing, or gear carrier is replaced, or when the ring gear
backlash or side bearing preload is out of specifications, side bearing adjusting washers of
proper thickness should be installed.

Required tools
 Weight block
 Master gauge
 Base plate
 Dial indicator
1. Thickness of side bearing adjusting washer can be calculated by following equation.

Left side: T1 = (A – C + D  H) x 0.01 + 0.175 + E

Right side: T2 = (B – D + H) x 0.01 + 0.15 + F

Where

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2. Measure values E and F
a. Attach a dial indicator to the base plate.
b. Place the outer race of the opposite side bearing to be measured.
c. Place a weight block on that outer race, and a master gauge on that block. Then
adjust the dial indicator scale to zero with its tip on the master gauge, figure 4.73.

Figure 4.73 Measuring values E and F

Caution:

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 To avoid any confusion while calculating, it is absolutely necessary to stay with metric
system. If you measure anything in inches, the results should be converted into the metric
system.
d. Remove the master gauge and weight block. Place the bearing outer race and inner
race to be measured on the opposite side outer race, and place the weight block on
that bearing assembly.
If the bearing assembly is placed on the base plate, the bearing width cannot be
accurately determined due to its cage being in contact with the base plate.
e. Turn the bearing several times to settle it, and then read the indication of the dial
indicator, figure 4.74.

The indication should be E or F.

Left side bearing E

Right side bearing F

Figure 74 settling the bearing

3. Substitute these values into the equation to calculate the thickness of the shim.
If values signifying A, B, C, D and H are not given, regard them as zero and calculate.
After assembly, check to see that preload and backlash are specifications. If not, readjust.
4. Select the proper shims.
If you cannot find the desired thickness of shims, use shims so that the total thickness is the
closest to the calculated value.

Pinion Height Adjustment

When replacing the hypoid gear set, drive pinion bearing or gear carrier; be sure to adjust the
pinion height.

Adjustment of the pinion height can be made by adjusting the washer to be installed between the
rear bearing inner race and the drive pinion head.
Required tools
 Height gauge
 Dummy shaft

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  Collar
 Feeler gauge

1. Thickness of washer can be calculated by following equation.

Caution
To avoid any confusion while calculating, it is necessary to stay with the metric system.
If you measure any thing in inches, the result should convert to the metric system.

T = N – [(H – D – S) x 0.01]+ 2.18

Where:

1. Assemble Dummy shaft and collar on rear bearing inner race, and fit it into carrier,
figure 4.75.

Figure 4.75 assembling the required tools into the carrier

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 2. Attach Height Gauge to carrier. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between
the height gauge tip and the dummy shaft face, figure 4.76.

Figure 4.76 measuring the clearance between the height gauge tip and the dummy shaft face

3. Substitute these values into the equation to calculate the thickness of the washer.
If values signifying H, D  and S are not given, regard them as zero and calculate.
After assembly, check to see that tooth contact is correct. If not, readjust.
4. Select the proper shims
If you cannot find the desired thickness of shims, use shims so that the total thickness
is the closest to the calculated value.

Example:

Calculated value T=0.83 mm

Used shims
Thickness Quantity
0.40 x 1 = 0.40
0.45 x 1 = 0.45

Total thickness 0.85 mm

Installing differential on vehicle

To install the differential on vehicle, reverse the removal procedure.

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Axles
The axle must perform several important functions. First, the axle shaft must hold the two rear
wheels. Second, it must support the weight of the vehicle. Third, it must transmit driving torque
to the wheels. Fourth, it must absorb the side thrust when the vehicle rounds a curve. Fifth, it
must absorb the tendency of the wheels to toe-out which results from the vehicle drive-that is,
when the wheel traction is applied back to the vehicle to propel it. These forces must be
transmitted to the housing either through the axle shaft or directly from the wheel to the housing,
depending upon the type of assembly used.

Axle Construction

The axle assembly is made up of several major sections: housing, axle, shafts, and the
differential.

The axle housing is usually made of stamped steel parts welded together. Some manufacturers
use a center section of cast steel to which are welded the stamped steel side sections.

Two basic types of housing are used: the banjo type, a one-piece unit so named because of its
resemblance to the musical instrument in appearance; and the split-housing type, consisting of
one or more pieces, a center section and two side sections which are bolted together.

Two steel axle shafts are used. These are placed inside the axle housing. The inner ends are
supported and driven by splines, which fit, into the differential axle side gears. The outer ends
are supported in the housing by ball or roller axle-shaft bearings. The outer ends of the axle
shafts protrude past the end of the housing and form a base to which the wheel hubs are attached.

Two methods of attaching the wheel hubs to the axle shaft are used. In one method a flange is
formed as part of the axle shaft and the wheel and brake drum are bolted to this flange. In the
other method, the end of the axle shaft has been tapered and has had a key-way cut in the taper.
The wheel hub is drawn onto the tapered axle end. A key, placed between the axle shaft and the
hub, prevents the hub from turning. The wheel is bolted to the hub.

Types of Axles:

Axles may be divided into two types: the dead axle, in which the axle is stationary and the
wheel rotates; and the live axle, in which both the axle shaft and the wheel rotate as a unit. The
front wheels of an automobile are mounted on dead axles, while the rear wheels are mounted on
live axles. There are three types of live axles:

 The semi-floating
 Three-quarter floating
 The full floating

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Each type is identified by the manner in which the outer end of the axle is supported in the axle
housing. The inner ends of all axles are attached to the differential or side gears by means of a
spline.

Semi-floating Axle (figure 4.77):

The type is used in most automobiles. The outer or wheel end of the axle is supported in the axle
housing by a single bearing mounted about 150mm from the outer end of the axle. With this
type of axle the axle shaft not only transmits the driving torque, but resists the bending
movements caused by the forward motion of the car and the side thrusts imposed when the
vehicle makes a turn. It must carry the entire weight of the vehicle. As a result, a great stress is
set up in the axle shaft of the semi-floating rear axle.

Figure 4.77 semi-floating axle and load applied on it

Three-quarter Floating Axle (figure 4.78):

This type of axle is used on three-quarter and one-ton trucks. In this type of axle, the single
bearing used to support the outer end of the axle shaft is placed between the outside of the axle
housing and the wheel hub. In this location approximately 75% of the gravitational force goes
directly from the axle housing to the wheel. Therefore, the axle shaft only supports about 25%
of the force. However, it must still resist the bending movements of the vehicle‟s forward
movement and the side thrust when turns are made and transmit the driving torque. Since the
shaft has been relieved of some of the weight, heavier loads may be carried without the danger of
axle breakage.

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Figure 4.78 Three-quarter floating axle and load applied on it

Full-floating axle ( figure 4.79)

The full floating axle is used in all large trucks. In this type, two tapered roller bearings are used
to support the outer end of the axle. These bearings are placed between the outside of the axle
housing and the wheel hub, one on the inner and one on the outer edge of the hub. The wheel is
mounted on the axle housing in a similar manner to the mounting of a wheel on a dead axle. The
weight of the vehicle, the bending movement of the forward motion, and all side thrusts are
transferred from the wheel directly to the axle housing through the tapered roller bearings. The
axle shaft has only to transmit the driving torque to the wheels. Only on this type of axle
arrangement may the axle shaft be removed without first jacking up the vehicle and removing the
wheel. This is convenient feature of the truck operator.

Figure 4.79 full-floating axle and load applied on it

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Removing the Live Axle Assembly from the Vehicle

A. Rear Live Axle

1. Block front (rear) wheels. Support under differential carrier with jack.
Place stands.
2. Remove wheels.
3. Remove propeller shaft
4. Disconnect parking brake cable and brake lines from the axle assembly.
5. Disconnect shock absorber lower end on each side.
6. Remove U-bolts
7. Pass axle case through space above spring, and take it out.

B. Front Live Axle

1. Remove free-running hub assembly (if present).
2. Remove shock absorber lower bolt.
3. Remove bolts fixing drive shaft to differential carrier.
4. Remove drive shaft, drawing its outer end out of front wheel

Note: Turn steering to the left (right), when removing left (right) drive shaft.

Removing the Axle Shaft with Wheel Hub

1. Remove nuts fixing brake back plate.

2. Pullout axle shaft assembly together with brake.
3. Remove oil seal
4. Unbend lock washer with a screwdriver

Note: Do not reuse once removed oil seal and lock washer. Always install new
one.
5. Position axle shaft in vise and remove bearing lock nut, using the recommended
special tool.
6. Withdraw wheel bearing together with bearing cage and back plate.
7. Remove oil seal in bearing cage with suitable bar if necessary.
8. To remove wheel bearing outer race, use a brass drift.

Inspecting Live Axle Components

A. Rear Live Axle

Inspect the following parts and replace as required

1. Check axle shaft for straightness, cracks, damage, wear or distortion.

2. Check bearing for wear or damage and axial and play.

B. Front Live Axle

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 Thoroughly clean all parts in cleaning solvent, and dry with compressed air. Check
parts for evidence of deformation or other damage.

Drive shaft:
 Replace drive shaft if it is twisted or cracked.

Joint assembly (wheel side)

 Replace joint assembly if it is deformed or damaged.

Spider assembly (differential carrier side)

 Replace spider assembly if needle bearing and washer are damaged.
 Check to see if serrated portions are deformed also check serrated portions on
the drive shaft side. If necessary replace.
 Check to see if roller surfaces are scratched, worn or damaged; also check
slide joint housing for damages. If necessary replace.

Boot
 Replace fatigued, cracked or worn boot.

Reassembling Live Axle Components

Wheel Side

 Install boot and new small boot band to drive shaft.

 Set joint assembly onto drive shaft (with new circlip) by lightly tapping it.

Note

o Do not reuse circlip once it has been separated.

o Install joint assembly securely, ensuring marks are properly aligned.
o If there is no mark, position both spider assemblies (one on the wheel side
and the other on the differential carrier side)so that their phases are nearly
zero.
 Pack drive shaft with specified amount of grease.
 Install new larger diameter boot band and lock it securely with a punch by bending
back over itself.
 Set boot so that it does not swell and deform when its length is as specified by the
manufacturer.

Differential carrier side

 Install boot, new boot bands and slide joint housing onto drive shaft.
 Place drive shaft on vise, using soft cushioning pads.
 Install spider assembly securely, ensuring marks are properly aligned.
o If there is no mark, position both spider assemblies (one on the wheel side
and the other on the differential side) so that their phases are nearly zero.
o Press-fit with spider assembly serration; chamfer facing shaft.

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 o Caulk serrations of drive shaft equally at three places.
o Avoid areas that were caulked previously.
o Ensure that each caulking is affected on two serrations and is more than
the specified gap.
 Pack with grease.
 Install new large diameter boot band.
 Install plug seal and plug, then caulk plug at three places using dummy bolts.
 Set boot so that it does not swell on deform when its length is as specified by
the manufacturer.
 Install new smaller diameter boot band.

Installing the Live Axle Assembly on the Vehicle

A. Rear Live Axle

 Install a new coil seal in bearing cage. Lubricate cavity between seal lips after
fitting seal.
 Install wheel bearing outer race, using a brass drift.
 Be sure to install spacer before installing wheel bearing inner race. Be careful
to place the faced side of spacer on wheel bearing grease seal side.
 Install wheel bearing inner race, using a brass drift.
 Be careful to place the faced side of the nut on washer side.
 Fit washer lip in nut groove correctly by tightening nut.
 Use a new bearing lock washer. Be sure to bend it up.
 Apply wheel bearing grease to wheel bearing and races of axle case end.
 Apply gear oil to the spline and apply a coat of wheel bearing grease so seal
surface before installing axle shaft.
 When installing axle shaft, adjust axial end play by applying case and shims.
 When installing axle shaft, use the recommended special tool.

Removing Dead Axle Assembly from Vehicle (With Disc Brake)

2. Block rear wheels and raise front of vehicle, and then support it with safety
stands.
3. Remove wheel and tyre assembly.
4. Remove brake caliper assembly.
5. Remove wheel hub and wheel bearing.
 Work off hub cap.
 Pry off cotter pin; take out adjusting cap and wheel bearing nut.
 Remove wheel hub with rotor disc.
 Separate outside wheel bearing inner race and washer.
 Separate brake disc to hub.
 Remove inside wheel bearing outer race, grease seal and outside wheel
bearing outer race.
 Remove knuckle spindle.
 Remove knuckle arm.
 Remove baffle plate

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  Loosen (not remove) upper and lower ball joint tightening nut.
 Separate upper and lower ball joint to knuckle spindle using the recommended
special tool.
 Jack up lower link and then remove ball joint tightening nut.
 Separate knuckle spindle from upper and lower links
(with drum brake)
 Block rear wheels.
 Jack up front of vehicle and support it with safety stands.
 Remove wheel and tyre assembly.
 Remove brake drum.
 Work off hub cap from hub using thin screw drivers or any other suitable tool.
If necessary, tap around it with a soft hammer while removing cap.

Note: During operation, use care to avoid damaging O-ring

 Pry off cotter pin; take out adjusting cap and wheel bearing lock nut.
 Remove wheel hub from spindle with bearing installed.

Note: Be careful not to drop outer bearing cone out of hub when removing hub
from knuckle spindle.

 Remover outer bearing cone and remove inner bearing cone after prying out
grease seal. Discard grease seal.
 If it is necessary to replace bearing cup, drive it out from hub with a brass drift
and mallet. Evenly tap bearing cup through two grooves inside hub.
 Detach clamp securing brake hose to the body
 Remove nut securing brake disc to knuckle spindle.
 Take out brake disc with brake hose toward the outside through knuckle
spindle after steering the wheel in a direction to facilitate the removal, and
support brake disc on suitable stand so as not to damage brake hose.
 Support lower arm with a jack.
 Remove nuts securing ball joints to knuckle spindle, and detach the ball joints
from knuckle spindle using ball joint remover and remove knuckle spindle.

Inspecting the Dead Axle Units

Thoroughly clean bearing and dry it with compressed air.

Wheel Bearing

When race, cage and roller surfaces make noise or are cracked, pitted, worn, rough, or out
– of – round, replace bearing assembly.

Wheel Hub

Check wheel hub for cracks, replace if necessary.

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 Knuckle Spindle

Also check wheel hub, replace if cracks or damage is found.

Grease Seal

If grease leakage is detected during removal, replace grease seal. Replace grease seal at
every disassembly even if it appears good.

Installing Dead Axle Assembly on Vehicle

With Disc Brake

Install in the reverse order of removal, noting the following:

1. Install knuckle spindle

 Install knuckle spindle to upper and lower ball joints with jacking up lower
link.
 Install knuckle arm and tighten it to the specified torque.
 Install baffle plate.
2. Install front wheel hub and wheel bearing.
 Install bearing outer race using the recommended special tool.
 Pack hub and hubcap with recommended multi-purpose grease. Coat O-ring
with recommended multi-purpose grease.
 Coat each bearing with recommended multi-purpose grease.
 Place inner bearing in hub and install a new grease seal, coating sealing lips
with recommended multi-purpose grease.
 Fix brake rotor to hub.
 Sparingly apply recommended multi-purpose grease to each part.
o Threaded portion of spindle
o Bearing washer to bearing contacting face
 Put hub assembly on spindle and then install washer and wheel bearing nut.
3. Adjust wheel bearing nut.
4. Install hub cap with O-ring into hub.
5. Install brake caliper assembly.
6. Install wheel and tire

With Drum Brakes

Install front axle in the reverse order of removal. Refer to disc brake for installing procedure.

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