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contents

FOREWORD by Jacob Ward

INTRODUCTION by Doug Cantor
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

001 Put Together a Soldering Kit

002 Learn Soldering Basics
003 Study Circuit Components
004 Build a Circuit
005 Choose a Microcontroller
006 Program an Arduino
007 Know Basic Woodworking Tools
008 Make a Straight Cut in Wood
009 Master Woodworking Joints
010 Drill a Hole
011 Suit Up with Metalworking Tools
012 Cut Metal Pipes and Sheets
013 Learn to Weld

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GEEK TOYS
014 You Built What?! The Ultimate All-in-One Beer-Brewing Machine
015 Drink Booze from a Melon
016 Break into Your Beer
017 Install a Shower Beer Caddy
018 Chill Your Beer Really, Really Fast
019 Disguise Your Brew
020 Reuse Those Red Party Cups
021 You Built What?! The Drink-Slinging Droid
022 Serve Shots in Jell-O Cups
023 Make Drinks Glow in the Dark
024 Freeze LEGO Ice Cubes
025 Cook a Hot Dog with Electrical Current
026 Mod Your Toaster for Far-from-Average Toast
027 Wield a Potato Launcher
028 Improvise a Planetarium
029 Put On a Liquid Light Show

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030 Jam Out to a Sound-Reactive Light Box
031 Wave an LED Lighter at a Concert
032 Party with an LED Glow Stick
033 You Built What?! An LED-Lit Disco Dance Floor
034 Make a Sonic Tunnel of Fire
035 Turn Your Campfire Green
036 Hold a Flaming Ball in Your Bare Hand
037 Set Off a Spinning Fire Tornado
038 Ignite a Homemade Sparkler
039 Wreak Havoc with the Ultimate Squirt Gun
040 Make a Mini Catapult
041 Play with a Bike-Part Spirograph
042 Turn Junk Mail into Pencils
043 Set Up a Turntable Zoetrope
044 You Built What?! The Real Iron Man Suit
045 Mix Magnetic Silly Putty
046 Cook Up Ferrofluid
047 Catch a Thrill on a Backyard Coaster
048 Set Up a Pinball Game at Home
049 Play DIY Skee-Ball
050 Build a Mint-Tin Racer
051 Shake Up a Martini in a Mint Tin
052 Strum a Mint-Tin Guitar
053 Carry a Pocket Billiard Set
054 Build a Mini Arcade Game
055 Cinch a Nintendo-Controller Belt

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056 Set Up a Supersize Game of Operation
057 Play Giant Checkers
058 Make a Reflection Hologram
059 Wield a DIY Light Saber
060 Hack Your Magic 8 Ball
061 Go Anywhere with Virtual-Reality Glasses
062 File-Share with a USB Dead Drop
063 Build a Bristlebot
064 Make a Mini Whirling Motor
065 Rig an Animatronic Hand
066 You Built What?! The Electric Giraffe
067 Create Audio Art out of Cassette Tape
068 Scratch a Pizza-Box Turntable
069 Pirate a Vinyl Record
070 Craft a Boom Box Duffel Bag
071 Make Your Tie Glow in the Dark
072 Put Headphones in Your Hoodie
073 Use a Glove on a Touchscreen
074 Pump Jams through an Old-School Phonograph
075 Amplify Music with Paper Cups
076 Make Custom-Fit Earbuds
077 Put a New Spin on an Old CD
078 Get Your Air Drum On with Electrified Drumsticks
079 Amuse Yourself with a Flipperdinger
080 Play a Pocket Theremin

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HOME IMPROVEMENTS
081 Customize Your Welcome Mat
082 Organize Your Entryway with Recycled Cans
083 Give a Doorknob a New Spin
084 Set Up a Secret Door
085 Make Invisible Speakers
086 Monitor Your Home with a Laser Security System
087 Snooper-Proof Your Wallet
088 Install an Electrical-Outlet Wall Safe
089 Carry a Film-Roll Keychain
090 Make a Musical Stash for Your Cash
091 Turn Your HDTV Into a Magic Window
092 Craft a DIY Digital Photo Frame
093 Give an Old TV a Rerun
094 Hack the Perfect Gaming Chair
095 Make a TV Oscilloscope
096 Hack a TV Console into a Seat

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097 Install an Aquarium in an Old TV
098 Build a Boob-Tube Bar
099 Set Up a DIY Drive-in
100 Hang a Liquid Lamp
101 Mold a Retro Lamp Base
102 Create a Mesmerizing Persistence-of-Vision Clock
103 Tell Time with a Dart Clock
104 Make a Modern Mag Rack
105 Sew an Easy eBook Reader Case
106 Turn a Printer into a High-Volume Document Shredder
107 Sort Mail with Old CDs
108 Improvise a Postage Scale
109 Turn Your Roomba into a Sentry
110 Make a Robotic Artiste
111 Remove Rust with Electricity
112 Clean with a Toy-Car Broom
113 Rig a Superpowered Scrub Brush
114 Track Your Food’s Freshness
115 Mod a Crumb-Collecting Cutting Board
116 Harvest Fridge Magnets from an Old Hard Drive
117 Do Stuff with Bottle Caps
118 Avoid Burning Your Mouth with a Smart Coaster
119 Put an Old Coffee Can to Good Use
120 You Built What?! Dinner to Go in a Nitrous-Injected Dining Table
121 Improvise a Sous-Vide Cooker
122 Build a DIY Smoker

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123 Set Up an Umbrella Solar Cooker
124 Construct a Toilet-Powered Zen Fountain
125 Double Your Showerhead Action
126 Craft a Toilet-Paper Dispenser
127 Hang a Magnetic Stud Finder
128 Turn Your Hard Drive into a Tool Grinder
129 Capture Screws with a Magnetic Wristband
130 Rig the Poor Man’s Laser Level
131 Kit Out an Instant-Charge Screwdriver
132 Make a Mini Screwdriver
133 Remove a Stripped Screw with a Rubber Band
134 Make a Rubik’s Cube–Inspired Chest of Drawers
135 Sand Tiny Trim with a Razor
136 Make Duct Tape Do Double Duty
137 Create a Life-Size Cardboard Cutout
138 Lounge in a Cardboard Hammock
139 Chat on a Cardboard Telephone
140 Hang Up Cardboard Blinds
141 You Built What?! Man’s Best Friend Gets a High-Tech Home
142 Make an Automatic Pet Feeder
143 Build a Cat Door
144 Put Together a Homemade Wind Mill
145 Hook Up a Solar Charger
146 Make a Geodesic Dome out of PVC Pipe
147 Reuse an Old Garden Hose
148 Make the Lazy Man’s Mower

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149 Set Up DIY Grow Lights
150 Build a CD-Case Greenhouse
151 You Built What?! The Ultimate Snowblower

GADGET UPGRADES
152 Rig a DIY Polygraph Test
153 Listen In with a Foxhole Radio
154 Tack Up a Dipole Antenna
155 Craft a Cell-Phone “Cantenna”
156 Boost Wi-Fi with a Steamer
157 Hang HDTV-Antenna Art
158 Mod an Xbox 360 Controller into an iPhone Case
159 Make a Phone “Bounceable”
160 Build a Hands-Free Phone
161 Make a Remote Display for Your Computer
162 Rig a Smartphone Projector
163 Charge a Phone with Solar Rays

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164 Make a Smartphone Tripod
165 Turn Your Old Netbook into a Touchscreen Tablet
166 Fashion a DIY Stylus for Your Touchscreen Device
167 Protect Your Touchscreen with Thin Vinyl
168 Stash a Flash Drive in a Cassette
169 Make a Pink-Eraser Flash Drive
170 Fake It with a Sawed-Off Flash Drive
171 House a Flash Drive in a LEGO
172 Hack a Foot-Operated Mouse
173 Trick Out Your Computer Tower with Engraving
174 Turn Your Laptop into a Whiteboard
175 Dye Your Laptop
176 Make a Steampunk-Inspired Laptop Case
177 Turn On Your Computer with a Magnet Switch
178 Print Secrets with Invisible Ink
179 Fake Out Thieves with a Desktop Hack
180 Shield Your Screen from Prying Eyes
181 Set Up a Laptop Cooling System
182 Control Your Mouse from Afar
183 Make an External Hard Drive
184 Add Keyboard Thumbtacks
185 Rig a Superportable Keyboard
186 Create a Glowing Mousepad
187 Upcycle an Old Circuit Board
188 Make a Laptop Stand from a Binder
189 Build a USB Hub into Your Desk

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190 Stash Your Printer in a Drawer
191 Mount Stuff behind Your Monitor
192 Organize Loose Cables
193 Make a Floppy-Disk Box
194 Get Pumped with a CD Dumbbell
195 Assemble a Cereal-Box Spectrometer
196 Rig a Supersimple Radiation Detector
197 Set Up a Plasma Globe Inside a Simple Lightbulb
198 Illuminate Sketches with Homemade Conductive Ink
199 Hack Infrared Goggles
200 Decimate Stuff with a DIY Laser Cutter
201 You Built What?! A 3D Printer That Runs on Sun and Sand
202 Shine a Mini Flashlight
203 Brighten Up a Standard-Issue Flashlight
204 Beam a Batman-Style Spotlight
205 Repurpose Foil for Techie Use
206 Improvise a Tripod
207 Mount a Camera to Your Bike
208 Build a Time-Lapse Camera Stand
209 Rig a Plastic-Bottle Diffuser
210 Make Your Camera Waterproof
211 Create a Peephole Fisheye Lens
212 Adapt a Manual Lens to Your DSLR
213 Snap a Self-Portrait with a DIY Remote Shutter Release
214 Set Up a High-Speed Audio-Triggered Flash
215 You Built What?! A Camera That Shoots Huge Photographs

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THINGS THAT GO
216 Ride with a Grease-Free Pant Leg
217 Reinforce Your Tire with a Seat Belt
218 Stay Safe with a Beer-View Mirror
219 Keep Your Handlebar Grips Tight
220 Bring the Party with a Bike Speaker
221 Stay Warm on Chilly Rides
222 Make a Unicycle Out of a Bike
223 Navigate with an Old-Fashioned GPS
224 Make Your Bike’s Tires Snow Proof
225 Protect Your Bike Saddle from Theft
226 Reuse a Busted Bike Tube
227 Shred on a Fan-Propelled Skateboard
228 Give Your Motorcycle a Futuristic Vibe
229 Light Up Your Motorcycle Helmet
230 You Built What?! The Vrooming Hot-Rod Hauler
231 Mount a Rad Hood Ornament

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232 Hang a DIY Air Freshener
233 Black Out Your Taillights
234 Install Air Horns in Your Car
235 Fend Off Fender Benders with a Sonic Distance Sensor
236 Hack an Emergency USB Charger
237 Shift with a Custom Gear Knob
238 Build a Bed in Your Van
239 Rig a Camping Shower
240 Kit Out a Solar-Charging Messenger Bag
241 Stay Cool On the Go with Ad Hoc A/C
242 Refill a Tiny Toothpaste Tube
243 Assemble a Collapsible Travel Hanger
244 Give Your Suitcase the Gift of Wheels
245 Pack Your Razor Safely
246 Take Aerial Photos with a Weather Balloon
247 Make a Mini Hovercraft
248 Launch a Mini Rocket
249 Build a Better Canoe Paddle
250 Upgrade Your Kayak into a Sailboat
251 You Built What?! The Incredible Amphibious Tank
252 Hack an Oversize Air Hockey Puck
253 Score with Ping-Pong Paddle Gloves
254 Assemble a PVC-Pipe Soccer Goal
255 Transform a Bike into a B-Ball Hoop
256 Serve Up a Tennis Ball
257 Turn Your Backyard into a Badminton Court

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258 Make a Mini-Golf Course
259 Install an At-Home Rock Wall
260 Hang PVC Fitness Rings
261 You Built What?! A Tilting Ping-Pong Table That Throws Off
Opponents
262 Organize Cords On the Go
263 Run in No-Slip Shoes
264 You Built What?! The Motorized Easy Chair

GLOSSARY
INDEX
THANKS TO OUR MAKERS
IMAGE CREDITS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
DISCLAIMER

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FOREWORD

Anyone can make anything. That is the lesson of the 140 years that
Popular Science has been in print. A determined person, working on the
weekends, can escape gravity, break the speed of sound, or create a new
means of communicating across great distances. And that inventive
process begins by tearing things apart and rebuilding them again.

I cannot claim to have been the kind of kid who did that. My instincts
around technology were always to keep my belongings clean, dry, and
otherwise in perfect working order, not to dismantle or modify them. But
my years at Popular Science have taught me that that instinct is the
wrong one. There is simply too much technology at our disposal not to
mess around with it. And when a determined person brings his or her

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inventive instincts to bear on the gadgets and gizmos that fill our lives,
great things can result.

But this book isn’t necessarily about building great things. It’s about
messing around, usually for the simple fun of it. The projects on these
pages are based, in part, on the years we’ve spent pursuing the lone,
sometimes crazed hackers who don’t just modify technology but blow it
apart, just to be able to say they’ve done it.

I spent an afternoon with our staff photographer, John Carnett, who in his
off time had replaced the motor on a four-wheel ATV with a jet engine.
The thing required an elaborate start-up procedure and ear protection just
to get it rolling, and as he drove me through his Philadelphia
neighborhood in it, I cringed to imagine the incredible racket we were
making, essentially that of a 747 taxiing past. And yet throughout the
process, oblivious to the enemies he was making among the local parents,
dogs, and nappers, John wore a look of joy and pride that had nothing to
do with serving humanity or inventing something new. He’d just tricked
something out—hacked it—in his own way, and in doing so had made his
mark on the universe, not to mention on the neighborhood noise
ordinances.

It’s in that spirit that we, and especially our tireless senior editor Doug
Cantor, bring you this entertaining collection of projects. We did it for the
hell of it.

Jacob Ward
Editor-in-Chief
Popular Science

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www.circuitmix.com
INTRODUCTION

I was an unlikely candidate to become the editor of How 2.0, Popular

Science’s do-it-yourself column. I’ve always been reasonably handy, but
when it came to real hands-dirty, open-things-up-and-rearrange-the-parts
hacking skills, I was a complete novice.

So I got into the DIY world the same way an experienced DIYer would
work on a project: I did some research, talked to seasoned tinkerers, and
then dove in. Early on I managed to build a tiny flashlight, hack my cell
phone’s firmware, and make a pair of bookends from old CDs, all
without causing too much damage. Over time I found that with a few
hours, a small pile of parts from Radio Shack, and a little patience, I
could build some really cool stuff.

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Editing How 2.0 has also given me a window into the vast community of
smart, dedicated people who have found about a million uses for things
like solenoid valves and Arduino microcontrollers. The breadth of their
innovations is truly astonishing, and that’s what Popular Science has
tried to show in the pages of How 2.0 each month. We’ve featured
projects ranging from a remote-controlled helicopter only 2 inches (5 cm)
high to a remote-controlled bomber with a 20-foot (60-m) wingspan;
from a portable solar-powered gadget charger to a 200-pound (90-kg)

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solar-powered 3-D printer; from a robot built from a toothbrush head to
one that can mix and serve cocktails.

Many of these projects have found their way into this book, along with a
host of entirely new ones. A few of them are just amazing, audacious
things that almost no one could (or probably should) try. Most, though,
are easier to replicate. Some take only a few minutes and require little
more than gluing parts together.

So if you’ve never attempted to make anything before in your life, this

book provides plenty of ways to start. From there you can take on some
of the more challenging projects and develop new skills. Eventually, you
might actually find yourself advancing your projects far beyond the
versions in the book.

Whatever your skill level and area of interest, I encourage you to roll up
your sleeves and (safely) give one of these projects a shot. At times you
may get frustrated or even break something. But ultimately you’ll be
surprised by what you can make, hack, tweak, improve, and transform—
and by how much fun you’ll have doing it.

Doug Cantor
Senior Editor
Popular Science

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HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
So you want to hack stuff—to tear it apart, put it back together with other
components, and make it new. We at Popular Science salute you, and
we’ve put together these projects to get you started. Many of them come
from our popular How 2.0 column, and many come from amazingly
inventive individuals out there making cool stuff. (Check out the “Thanks
to Our Makers” section for more info.)

Before starting a project, you can look to the following symbols to

decode what you’re facing.

If you’re just breaking in your screwdriver and have never even heard the
word microcontroller, try out these projects first. Designed to be doable
within five minutes—give or take a few seconds, depending on your
dexterity—and to make use of basic household items, these tech crafts
are the perfect starting ground for the newbie tinkerer.

These are the big ones—the ambitious projects that you’ll want to sink
some real time and cash into, and that will challenge your skills as a
builder. How much time and cash, you ask? And just how challenging?
The helpful rubric below will give you an idea.

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Popular Science has been doing DIY for a very long time—almost as
long as the 140 years the magazine has been in print. Occasionally this
book shares a DIY project from our archives so you can try your hand at
the hilarious retro projects your grandfather and grandmother built back
before, say, television or smartphones.

Everyone loves a good success story—tales of everyday individuals who

created something so wild that it makes you say . . . well, “You built
WHAT?!” You’ll find several of these stories throughout the book, and it
is our hope that they will inspire you to take your projects to the next
level.

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WARNING
If you see this symbol, we mean business. Several of the projects
in this book involve dangerous tools, electrical current,
flammables, potentially harmful chemicals, and recreational
devices that could cause injury if misused. So remember: With
great DIY comes great responsibility. Use your head, know your
tools (and your limitations), always wear safety gear, and never
employ your hacking prowess to hurt others. (See our Disclaimer
for more information about how Popular Science and the
publisher are not liable for any mishaps.)

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001 PUT TOGETHER A SOLDERING KIT
Soldering is playing with fire, or at least with hot
metal. So you need the right tools.
If you’re working on electronics projects, chances are you’ll want to
connect lightweight metal objects like wires, and soldering is the way to
get that done. You heat pieces of metal with a soldering iron, then join
them together using a molten filler, or solder. Once it cools and hardens,
you’re left with a strong, electronically conductive bond.

SOLDER This is the good stuff—the material you’ll melt to connect

metals. Traditionally, solder was a mix of tin and lead, but these days
look for lead-free types to avoid nasty health risks. Choose thinner solder
for delicate projects, like attaching wires to a circuit board, and thicker
solder for projects involving heftier wires or bulkier pieces of metal.

SOLDERING IRON This tool has a metal tip and an insulated handle.
When it’s powered on, the tip heats up so it can melt solder. There are
low- and high-wattage versions: Low wattage is useful for fragile
projects, while high wattage is better for projects involving bigger pieces.
There are also different types of tips available for the soldering iron.

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SOLDERING IRON STAND Buy a stand that fits your iron so you’ll
have a place to put it down safely when it’s hot. (Leaving this thing lying
around when it’s turned on is a good way to burn down the toolshed
before you’ve even made anything cool with it!)

WIRE-MODIFYING TOOLS You’ll likely be soldering a lot of wire,

so it’s useful to have wire cutters, wire strippers, and needle-nose pliers
on hand so you can manipulate the wire. Before connecting wires, you
must peel back their insulation to expose the wires, so wire strippers are
definitely a must.

CLIPS AND CLAMPS Soldering requires both hands, so you’ll need

something to hold the materials you’re soldering in place. Clips, clamps,
and even electrical tape can do the job.

LIQUID FLUX Soldering works best when the items being soldered are
squeaky clean, so have liquid flux on hand—it chases away oxides and
other goop that can make soldering difficult.

HEAT-SHRINK TUBING You can use plastic heat-shrink tubing to

insulate wires before you apply heat and solder them. It’s available in
several diameters for projects with various wire sizes.

TIP CLEANER Your soldering iron’s tip will get a bit nasty as you
work, so keep a wet sponge on hand to periodically wipe down the tip.

EXHAUST FAN The fumes from soldering are not healthy to breathe, so
you need good ventilation from a fan or an open window to help clear the
air.

SAFETY GOGGLES Bits of hot solder can go flying as you work, so

don’t do it without wearing safety goggles.

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002 LEARN SOLDERING BASICS
Now that you have your soldering gear together,
here’s how to get it done.
At its most basic, soldering is simply attaching wires to wires. The
process is a bit different when you’re soldering directly onto a circuit
board, but don’t worry: We’ve got you covered with info for each.

SOLDERING WIRES

STEP 1 In a well-ventilated space, with your safety goggles on, plug in

your soldering iron to heat it up. Be careful not to touch the tip, which
will heat up fast.

STEP 2 Prepare the materials you want to join with solder. If you’re
connecting two wires, peel back any insulation about ½ inch (1.25 cm),
and twist the wires together. Place your materials on a surface you don’t
mind burning a bit, like scrap wood.

STEP 3 Cut a length from the spool of solder and coil it up at one end,
leaving a short lead. You can hold on to the coiled end as you apply the
solder.

STEP 4 Touch the iron to the point where the wires are twisted together.
Leave it there until the wires are hot enough to melt the solder (about 10

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seconds), then touch the solder to the wire joint every few seconds until it
begins to melt. Allow enough solder to melt onto the wires to cover them,
then pull the solder and soldering iron away. Don’t touch the solder
directly to the soldering iron during this process—that will melt the
solder onto the wires, but won’t form a firm joint.

STEP 5 When you need to fix a mistake, you can reheat your joint, melt
the solder, and reposition the components. If you want to break the
connection you made for any reason, you can desolder a joint. For
connections like joined wires, you can often simply heat up the joint and
pull the wires apart, or cut each wire below the joint and resolder as
desired.

SOLDERING A CIRCUIT BOARD

STEP 1 Place the component that you wish to solder in the correct spot
on the circuit board and clamp it down, then push the leads for each
component through the holes on the board.

STEP 2 Solder the leads to the bottom of the board. (This is easier to do
with a fine-tipped, low-wattage soldering iron.) Press the soldering iron
to the lead and the metal contact on the board at the point where you
want them to connect. Once they heat up enough to melt the solder—just
a few seconds—melt a small amount of solder at the connection point
(too much can cause a short, too little won’t make a strong connection).

STEP 3 Pull the solder away, then remove the soldering iron a second or
two later. Once you’ve soldered all the leads onto the circuit board, trim
off excess wire with a wire cutter.

TRY TINNING

If you’re working with components that have to be surface-mounted on a

circuit board—ones that don’t have leads you can thread through to the
back of the board—you’ll need to use a technique called tinning.

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STEP 1 Touch the soldering iron to the point on the board where you
want to attach the component. Melt a small drop of solder on this point,
then remove the soldering iron.

STEP 2 Pick up the component with tweezers, heat up the drop of solder
on the board, and carefully place the component on the solder.

STEP 3 Hold the component in place for a few seconds until the solder
cools.

STEP 4 If you need to desolder joints on a circuit board, use a

desoldering pump with your soldering iron to melt and remove the solder.

003 STUDY CIRCUIT COMPONENTS

To build a circuit, first you’ve got to understand
its building blocks.
Maps of how current flows through a circuit are called schematics. Each
component is represented by a labeled symbol, which is connected to
other components by lines to represent the current’s path.

In this book, we use several circuitry diagrams to show how to attach

projects’ components, so here we’ll introduce you to some of the main
circuit components that show up on these diagrams.

TRANSISTORS A transistor amplifies energy flowing to its base

pin, allowing a larger electrical current to flow between its collector
and emitter pins. The two basic types of transistors, NPN and PNP,
have opposite polarities: Current flows from collector to emitter in

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NPN transistors, and flows from emitter to collector in PNP
transistors.

POTENTIOMETERS When you need to vary resistance within a

circuit, use a potentiometer instead of a standard resistor. These
have a controller that allows you to change the level of resistance:
“B” potentiometers have a linear response curve, while “A”
potentiometers have a logarithmic response curve.

SWITCHES Switches open or close a circuit. Some are normally

open as a default; others are normally closed.

RESISTORS A circuit needs resistance to function. Without it,

you’ll end up with a short circuit, in which the current flows
directly from power to ground without being used, causing your
circuit to overheat and otherwise misbehave. To prevent that from

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happening, resistors reduce the flow of electrical current. The level
of resistance is measured in ohms, so check those numbers to make
sure a component’s resistance matches the level indicated in the
circuitry diagram.

CAPACITORS These store electricity, then release it back into the

circuit when there’s a drop in power. Capacitor values are measured
in farads: picofarads (pF), nanofarads (nF), and microfarads (μF)
are the most common units of measure. Ceramic capacitors aren’t
polarized, so they can be inserted into a circuit in any direction, but
electrolytic capacitors are polarized and need to be inserted in a
specific orientation.

BATTERIES These store power for a circuit, and you can use
more than one to increase voltage or current.

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WIRE These single strands of metal are often used to connect the
components in a circuit. Wire comes in various sizes (or gauges),
and it’s usually insulated.

DIODES These components are polarized to allow current to flow

through them in only one direction—very useful if you need to stop
the current in your circuit from flowing the wrong way. The side of
a diode that connects to ground is called the cathode, and the side
that connects to power is called the anode. Light-emitting diodes,
or LEDs, light up when current flows through them.

INTEGRATED CIRCUITS These are tiny circuits (usually

including transistors, diodes, and resistors) prepacked into a chip.
Each leg of the chip will connect to a point in your larger circuit.
These vary widely in their composition, and will come with a
handy data sheet explaining their functions.

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 TRANSFORMERS These devices range from thumbnail-size to
house-size, and consist of coils of wire wound around a core, often
a magnet. Made to transfer alternating current from one circuit to
another, they can step the power of the current up or down
depending on the ratio of wire windings between one coil and
another.

004 BUILD A CIRCUIT

Now that you know what goes into a circuit, you
can make one.
STEP 1 Assemble all the components that appear on your schematic,
along with any tools you’ll need to make connections, clamp parts, or
trim wires.

STEP 2 To test your circuit before you solder it together, set it up on a

breadboard first. Breadboards are boards covered in small holes that
allow you to lay out and connect components without soldering them in
place.

STEP 3 Once you’re ready to construct the circuit, it’s best to start by
installing the shortest components first. This helps you avoid having to
move taller components out of the way, and allows you to flip the board
over to hold the component you’re working on in place. As you install

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components, orient their labels in the same direction so they’re all legible
at once.

STEP 4 Many components have lead wires that you can insert into a
circuit board. Bend these leads before you insert the component so that
you don’t stress the part or the board.

STEP 5 You’ll need to hold your parts in place while you solder the
circuit together. You can do this by clinching lead wires (bending them
slightly on the other side of the board to hold them in place), using tape,
or bracing the parts against your work surface.

STEP 6 As you solder, check that each component is aligned correctly

after you solder the first pin or lead—it’s easier to make adjustments at
this point, before you’ve finished soldering the part in place.

STEP 7 When everything’s soldered in place, trim all your circuit’s lead
wires and test it out.

005 CHOOSE A MICROCONTROLLER

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Most geeks know a thing or two about
microcontrollers. So get these basics under your
belt.
A microcontroller is essentally a tiny computer, complete with a central
processing unit (CPU), memory, and input and output. It’s really useful
for controlling switches, LEDs, and other simple electronic devices. Here
are a few features you’ll want to consider when choosing one for a
project.

PROGRAMMABILITY Ideally, you want a microcontroller that you

can erase and reprogram a number of times. Some can only be
programmed once—these are fine if you’re building something more
permanent—and some allow you to add external memory for complex
projects.

MEMORY Microcontrollers come with a set amount of memory, which

is sometimes upgradable, but only to a certain extent. Make sure that the
microcontroller you choose has sufficient memory to handle your project.

COMPLEXITY For a more complex project, you’ll need to seek out a

model with lots of input and output pins and more memory than the
lower-end microcontrollers.

PHYSICAL PACKAGING A microcontroller’s construction can

influence how easy it is to use. For instance, less space between pins can
make the device harder to work with. Check out the setup before you put
down your cash.

PROGRAMMING LANGUAGE Different microcontrollers use

different programming languages. Choose one that uses a language you
know or are willing to learn.

SOFTWARE Some microcontrollers have better, easier-to-use software

tools than others. If you’re a beginner, be wary of using a microcontroller

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with poorly designed software tools. Ask around among your tech-savvy
friends to get a sense of what’s right for you.

006 PROGRAM AN ARDUINO

An Arduino is a popular open-source single-
board microcontroller. Learn how to program
one and let the possibilities take shape.
STEP 1 Arduino microcontrollers come in a variety of types. The most
common is the Arduino UNO, but there are specialized variations. Before
you begin building, do a little research to figure out which version will be
the most appropriate for your project.

STEP 2 To begin, you’ll need to install the Arduino Programmer, aka the
integrated development environment (IDE).

STEP 3 Connect your Arduino to the USB port of your computer. This
may require a specific USB cable. Every Arduino has a different virtual

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serial-port address, so you’ll need to reconfigure the port if you’re using
different Arduinos.

STEP 4 Set the board type and the serial port in the Arduino
Programmer.

STEP 5 Test the microcontroller by using one of the preloaded programs,

called sketches, in the Arduino Programmer. Open one of the example
sketches, and press the upload button to load it. The Arduino should
begin responding to the program: If you’ve set it to blink an LED light,
for example, the light should start blinking.

STEP 6 To upload new code to the Arduino, either you’ll need to have
access to code you can paste into the programmer, or you’ll have to write
it yourself, using the Arduino programming language to create your own
sketch. An Arduino sketch usually has five parts: a header describing the
sketch and its author; a section defining variables; a setup routine that
sets the initial conditions of variables and runs preliminary code; a loop
routine, which is where you add the main code that will execute
repeatedly until you stop running the sketch; and a section where you can
list other functions that activate during the setup and loop routines. All
sketches must include the setup and loop routines.

STEP 7 Once you’ve uploaded the new sketch to your Arduino,

disconnect it from your computer and integrate it into your project as
directed.

007 KNOW BASIC WOODWORKING TOOLS

Set up a proper shop with some essential
carpentry gear.
MEASURING TOOLS Accurately measuring lengths and angles is
essential. A simple tape measure and a combination square (which allows
you to measure and check angles) help you mark your cuts accurately.

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HAND SAW This is the most basic, inexpensive saw that most of us
have stashed somewhere in our garages. You should have one on hand
and sharpened for making cuts that don’t need to be incredibly precise.

TABLE SAW Now you’re cutting with power. This electric saw features
a circular saw blade set into a surface, and to make a nice, straight cut in
an item, you push it across the blade as it spins. If it sounds dangerous,
that’s because it is. Be very careful when operating one of these saws.

JIGSAW Use this power tool when you need to make a curved cut in
wood or metal. The jigsaw can be difficult to control, and as a result is
dangerous—use it only when you require irregular contours or artistic
touches.

ROTARY TOOL This simple yet versatile device allows you to cut,
drill, sand, and carve into all sorts of materials. It comes with a variety of
bits.

BLOCK PLANE This hand tool is useful when you want to soften edges
and plane flat surfaces.

DRILL This device is your old faithful—your basic tool for making
holes in wood. The size of the hole depends on the bit that you choose.

ROUTER A more advanced cutting alternative, a router is a power tool

that accepts a variety of bits and creates hollows in surfaces. It’s useful
for making different wood moldings and joints.

SANDING BLOCK To smooth wood by hand, outfit a sanding block

with sandpaper.

RANDOM-ORBIT SANDER This power sander is useful for faster

sanding and large projects.

CLAMPS You’ll want to have a variety of clamps on hand to hold your

project steady as you glue it together.

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WORKBENCH You need a solid surface to work on as you assemble
your project.

VISE Some workbenches have a built-in vise, and those designed for
woodworking won’t damage the wood.

SAFETY GEAR Especially when using power tools, goggles are

essential to protect your eyes from flying wood chips, and earplugs or
noise-blocking headphones protect your hearing by muffling the noise. A
face mask will also keep fine sawdust out of your lungs.

008 MAKE A STRAIGHT CUT IN WOOD

Because sawing straight lines can be trickier
than you might think.
You can do most woodworking projects without elaborate table saws and
expensive machinery (though they’re handy if you have them). But you’ll
probably want to have these essentials on hand.

STEP 1 Mark your cut with a ruler and pencil, on the sides as well as the
top of the wood. When measuring, take the width of your saw blade
(called kerf) into account, and use an arrow to show which side of the
line you’ll cut on.

STEP 2 Place your saw on a corner at your mark, and draw it backward
with light pressure to create a notch. Repeat this to deepen the notch, then
adjust the saw gradually to make a shallow cut along the line on the top
surface of the wood. Be careful that you don’t press down too hard on the
saw; if you do, it could catch.

STEP 3 Using the first groove and your penciled guides, turn the wood
and repeat the second step on the other sides. The wood will have
shallow cuts on the top and sides.

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STEP 4 Turn the wood top up again, and finish sawing through the
piece. To avoid splintering, tilt the saw back and support the wood you’re
cutting as you finish the cut. The grooves on the sides will help keep the
saw straight.

009 MASTER WOODWORKING JOINTS

If “butt joint” sounds like a joke to you, grow up
and learn these woodworking staples.
TO MAKE A MITERED BUTT JOINT

STEP 1 To join two pieces of wood at a 90-degree angle, you’ll first

need to mark each piece of wood with a line at a 45-degree angle, drawn
from front to back at the corner of each piece. Mark this 45-degree angle
on opposite sides of each piece, and join the bottom corners of those lines
together with a straight line on the third side. This will mark out the
triangular wedge of wood you’ll be removing from each piece.

STEP 2 Start your cut at one of the 45-degree lines, cutting a shallow
groove. Finish your cut carefully, checking that your cut lines up with
both the end corner of the wood and the straight line that you drew.
Repeat on the second piece of wood.

STEP 3 Once you’ve cut each end into a 45-degree angle, line the pieces
up with the newly cut surfaces touching. Check to make sure this forms a
90-degree angle, then glue the ends together with wood glue to form a
mitered butt joint. Clamp the joint while it dries.

TO MAKE A MORTISE AND TENON JOINT

STEP 1 To create this type of joint, you’ll need to cut one piece of wood
so that a section protrudes (the tenon) and another piece so that it has a
hole (the mortise). First, measure and mark the tenon, making it wide and
long enough to create a strong joint.

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STEP 2 Use a saw to cut out the tenon. You’ll need to cut away a
rectangular chunk of wood on each side of a central piece of wood that
will form the tenon.

STEP 3 Use the tenon to measure out the mortise on the other piece of
wood. Mark a space for the mortise on both sides of the wood.

STEP 4 Choose a drill bit that just fits inside the marks, and drill a hole
halfway through the wood. Flip it over, then drill the rest of the way
through the wood, using the marks you made in the third step as a guide.

STEP 5 Use a hammer and chisel or a jigsaw to cut the mortise square.

STEP 6 Fit the tenon into the mortise. Depending on your project, you
can use a dowel, glue, or a wedge to keep the joint locked together.

010 DRILL A HOLE

Think this is easy? It usually is—especially if
you use the right tools and techniques.
STEP 1 Choose a drill bit that’s the right size and length for the hole you
need to drill.

STEP 2 Mark the spot where you want your hole, then use a center
punch to create a dent at the mark. This will help keep the drill bit in
place as you work.

STEP 3 Clamp the material you’ll be drilling in place.

STEP 4 When you turn on your drill, check to make sure that the drill bit
is spinning clockwise.

STEP 5 Drill into the material. As you go, the drill should feel like it’s
moving smoothly without requiring too much pressure. If that’s not
happening, stop and check for materials that could be clogging the bit.

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STEP 6 When you’re drilling, you can put the drill in reverse (spinning
counterclockwise) to back out of each hole you make. If the back of a
hole isn’t smooth, use a deburring tool to remove burrs and splinters.

011 SUIT UP WITH METALWORKING

TOOLS
Ready for some metal? You will be—once you
have these basics together.
A handful of this book’s projects require you to do some metalworking—
either shaping it, or fusing one metal piece with another. Now, we
wouldn’t want you to do that without the right gear, would we?

HOT-CUTTING TOOLS Hot metal is easier to cut than cold, which is

why torches and hot-cutting chisels come in handy.

COLD-CUTTING TOOLS Cold chisels are often used to create

grooves in metal, and hacksaws are useful for getting through thick, cold
metal.

PLIERS These tools help you handle metal that’s hot or coated in toxic
materials.

VISES AND CLAMPS These secure the metal you’re working on, and
can also be used to hold multiple pieces of metal together.

FILE A file grates away excess metal, allowing you to reshape a project
as needed.

SANDPAPER This is the go-to tool you’ll need for smoothing rough
patches.

SAFETY GLASSES When you’re working with metal, wear welding

goggles or a welding hood at all times.

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EAR PROTECTION When using tools that make lots of noise, cover
your ears to avoid damaging your hearing.

WORK BOOTS Steel-toed or other thick, hard-soled shoes are essential

protective gear when you’re working with sharp or hot metal.

HEAVY GLOVES Last, but not least, take this important safety
precaution: Protect your hands with thick, insulated gloves. Some metal
pros wear leather ones, as leather isn’t especially flammable—and it
looks cool, too.

012 CUT METAL PIPES AND SHEETS

If you’re working on plumbing or with metal
sheet, you’ll probably need to make a cut or two.
Here’s how.
TO CUT A METAL PIPE

STEP 1 Wearing the appropriate eye protection, clamp the pipe in place
on your work table, and mark a line on the pipe where you want to cut.

STEP 2 Place a hacksaw on the marked line, checking to make sure that
the blade is perfectly aligned with the mark. Begin cutting, using your
non-dominant hand to put gentle pressure on the top of the saw as you
move it back and forth across the pipe. Check the alignment periodically
as you work to ensure a clean cut.

STEP 3 Carefully remove the cut pipe from the clamp or vise, and
smooth the cut edge with a file as needed to avoid sharp edges.

TO CUT SHEET METAL

STEP 1 Place the sheet on your work table, with the section you want to
cut protruding over the edge. Hold it in place with clamps, and mark the

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line where you’ll cut.

STEP 2 Use a jigsaw or other cutting tool to cut along the line you
marked (the appropriate tool will vary depending on the type and
thickness of the metal you’re cutting). Hold the sheet with one hand
while gently pushing the cutting tool along the line. Slow down if the
sheet starts to vibrate excessively.

STEP 3 When you’re finished cutting, use a file to smooth the cut edge
of the metal sheet, and then unclamp the sheet from your work table.

013 LEARN TO WELD

It goes without saying that welding is cool. It’s
also really useful.
Welding allows you to join metals by heating them, then melting or
compressing them together.There are several types—such as arc, gas, and
resistance. Here’s some basic information on arc welding, the most
common method.

STEP 1 Safety first. Welding fumes can be really unhealthy, so set up in

a well-ventilated area. Arc welding generates UV rays that can easily
burn your skin, and molten metal can fly up and hit you, so cover
exposed skin and keep a welding hood on the entire time you’re working.
Wear insulated welding gloves to avoid burns and electric shock, and
always use work boots with insulated soles. Finally, use a work table
made of nonflammable material.

STEP 2 Before you begin welding, prepare the pieces of metal you want
to join. It’s useful to bevel the edges you’ll be joining, to allow the weld
arc to penetrate and create a strong bond. Clean the metal surfaces of all

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paint, rust, and other contaminants that could interfere with the current
created by the welding machine. Once the pieces are prepped, secure
them together with clamps.

STEP 3 Attach a ground clamp to the larger piece of metal you’ll be

welding. The clamp will complete the circuit and allow electricity to pass
through the metal once you begin welding.

STEP 4 Choose the right electrode and amperage settings for your
welding machine—this will vary depending on your project. Attach the
electrode to its holder, called a stinger.

STEP 5 Turn on the welder, and hold the stinger by its insulated handle
using your dominant hand. You should be wearing all your protective
gear at this point.

STEP 6 To begin welding, you need to strike an arc. Choose where

you’d like to begin the weld, and tap that point with the end of your
electrode. Immediately pull the electrode back slightly: This should
create an electric arc between the metal and your electrode. The amount
of space you’ll need between the metal and the electrode varies
depending on your project, and it may take practice to hold a continuous
arc.

STEP 7 Move the arc along the path of your weld. This will create a
weld bead, formed by the metal from the melting electrode and the base
metal. The weld bead forms the bond that will hold your pieces of metal
together. Move the electrode in a zig-zag motion to shape the weld bead
to the desired width.

STEP 8 Once your weld is done, chip off any slag and use a wire brush
to clean up the bond. To avoid rust, paint the metal.

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www.circuitmix.com
014 THE ULTIMATE ALL-IN-ONE BEER-
BREWING MACHINE
Behold this deluxe homemade microbrewery: an
elaborate device that boils, ferments, chills, and
pours home-crafted ale.
What if there were a machine—a beautiful, shiny machine—and all it
did, with almost no work from you, was make you beer? Such was the
dream that drove former PopSci photographer John Carnett to build what
he calls “the Device”: a stainless-steel, two-cart brewing system that
starts by boiling extract (concentrated wort, or pre-fermented beer) and
ends with a chilled pint.

In most home-brewing setups, each step in the process requires moving

the beer to a new container by hand, which increases the chance of
contamination and requires lifting. Carnett’s machine keeps everything in
the carts’ closed system—he only has to swap a few CO2-pressurized
hoses to move the liquid along.

The delicious brew’s journey begins in the boil keg, where concentrated
wort extract is heated by a propane burner for 90 minutes. The beer then
travels through a heat exchanger—which cools the mix to about 55°F
(13°C)—on its way to the fermenting keg. Here, a network of Freon-
chilled copper tubes pumps cool water around the keg when the
temperature gets too high. After two weeks, the Device pumps the beer
into a settling keg, where a CO2 tank adds carbonation. When you pull
the tap, the beer travels through the cold plate, so it’s chilled on the way

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to your glass. That’s right: The Device is always ready with a cold pour
and consumes no power when it’s not actively serving or fermenting.

BUILDING A BETTER BREW

The next step? Adding a third cart to make wort from raw grain
instead of extract. But, says Carnett, there’s a lot of “testing” of the
new design to be done first.

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015 DRINK BOOZE FROM A MELON
Turn basic produce into a hilarious drink
dispenser.
MATERIALS
Medium seedless watermelon

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Large spoon
Drill
Knife
Ball valve faucet with a handle
Rubber O-ring that fits the faucet
PVC-to-faucet adapter
Alcohol of your choosing

STEP 1 Using a knife, cut off just enough of the bottom of your melon
so that it sits flat.

STEP 2 Pick the side of the melon that you want to be the front, then cut
a hole in the top, toward the rear. Save the piece you’ve cut out, as you’ll
use it later.

STEP 3 Scoop out the fruit with a large spoon.

STEP 4 Drill a hole in the melon’s front, near the bottom. Using a knife,
widen it so it’s big enough for the faucet to fit inside.

STEP 5 Gently screw the faucet into the hole. (It helps to stick your free
hand inside the melon and guide the faucet into place from the inside.)

STEP 6 Slide the O-ring onto the back of the faucet inside the melon,
then install the adapter. Test for leaks.

STEP 7 Load it up with the elixir of your choosing, put the cut-out top
back in place, and get your pour on.

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016 BREAK INTO YOUR BEER
STEP 1 Use a metal file to wear down a carabiner’s hook end so that it
fits under a bottle cap’s lip. (Be careful not to file it down too much or
the carabiner won’t close properly.)

STEP 2 Open the carabiner and place the unmodified end against the
beer cap, then tuck the hook end under the cap’s lip and use it as a lever
to pry open your brew.

STEP 3 Carry your carabiner as a keychain so that you’re always ready

when beer suddenly, magically happens to you.

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017 INSTALL A SHOWER BEER CADDY
STEP 1 Buy a cup holder at an automotive parts store. (Some have a
hook on the back, which you don’t need—remove it by gently breaking it
off along the seam or cutting it off with a rotary tool.)

STEP 2 Drill a hole into the back of the cup holder that’s just wide
enough to accommodate the tip of a suction cup.

STEP 3 Insert the suction cup’s tip into the hole, press the suction cup to
the shower wall, and load your beer of choice into the caddy.

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018 CHILL YOUR BEER REALLY, REALLY
FAST
STEP 1 Drill a hole into the side of a plastic container. The hole should
be just wide enough that you can poke the straw of a container of
compressed air through it.

STEP 2 Fill the plastic container with as many beers as you can fit.
Cover with the lid.

STEP 3 Tape it shut. (Trust us. Otherwise the injected blast of cool air
could blow the lid right off.)

STEP 4 Wearing thick, insulated gloves, turn the can of compressed air
upside down and insert the can’s straw into the hole, being careful not to
touch the cans with it.

STEP 5 Squeeze for up to 1 minute.

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STEP 6 Open the container and tap on each can’s top for a few seconds
to relieve the pressure inside. Then open one up and take a big swig—
you’ve earned it.

019 DISGUISE YOUR BREW

STEP 1 Using a can opener, remove the top and bottom of an innocent-
looking soda can.

STEP 2 Using scissors, cut off the soda can’s bottom lip.

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STEP 3 Cut along the soda can’s seam.

STEP 4 Using a metal file, sand down the can’s edges to avoid cuts and
scrapes. Get it as smooth as possible.

STEP 5 Wrap the soda can around your beer and enjoy your incognito
beverage.

020 REUSE THOSE RED PARTY CUPS

Keep the infamous cup in play long after the
keg's run dry. (Just rinse out that stale-beer
smell first.)

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 DIY CAMERA LENS HOOD
Fend off glare with an impromptu lens hood. Cut the bottom out of
your party cup, and then poke two holes on either side near the
bottom. Thread a rubber band through each hole and knot them.
Place the cup over your lens, tie the rubber bands around your
camera near the viewfinder, and keep rain out of your shots.

MEASURE (MORE) BOOZE

Engineers say that the ridges on party cups are for structural
integrity, but people have long used them as measurement lines: the
first indentation from the bottom marks 1 ounce (30 mL), the second
5 ounces (147 mL), and the third a full 12 ounces (355 mL).

POOR MAN’S CHANDELIER

Poke holes in the bottoms of about 60 cups. Then glue the cups
together along their sides with their open ends facing outward,
forming a ball. Insert a bulb from a string of Christmas lights into
each hole as you go to make a huge, sparkling plastic orb.

MAKESHIFT BEER INSULATOR

Cut Styrofoam to fit the bottom of your cup and place it inside, then
spray a can with nonstick cooking spray. Put the can inside the cup
and fill around it with expanding foam. Let the foam dry and trim
the excess. Call it a koozie.

021 THE DRINK-SLINGING DROID

This robot tends bar like a pro. And even better,
it never needs a tip.

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A veteran of the TV show BattleBots, Jamie Price has built plenty of
destructive machines. But recently he designed a robot with a more
mellow calling: offering cold beer and cocktails. The result—a
masterpiece of plywood, plastic, aluminum, and electric motors called
Bar2D2—serves up everything but the sage advice.

The salesman modeled his machine on the iconic Star Wars droid R2-D2,
and spent seven months and $2,000 building it. He used a plastic dome
from a bird feeder as the head and built the robot’s plywood skeleton to
match. To make Bar2D2 mobile, Price stripped out the seat, the control
system, and a pair of wheels from an electric wheelchair, added a new
12-volt battery, and wired a receiver to the motor so he could control it
with an R/C helicopter-type remote.

Price fills each of the robot’s six bottles with either liquor or a mixer, and
then plugs these ingredients into a software program. The program
computes a list of possible drinks, Price picks one, and the software
sends pouring instructions to the robot via Bluetooth. A custom circuit
board receives the signals and moves actuators that open specific valves
just long enough for the robot’s air-pressure system to force the right
amount of each liquid into a waiting glass.

Bar2D2 has already proven to be a hit among robotics and cocktail fans
alike, but Price isn’t finished yet. Next he’s adding a breathalyzer and an
LED-backed projector that displays blood-alcohol content. Give us your
keys, Obi-Wan.

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BEER ME, BAR2D2
One difficulty was finding a way to move bottles up from the
enclosed beer rack to the serving station above. When Price hits a
button on his remote, the rod of a motorized caulk gun extends and
pushes the beer up from the lower level. He calls it his beer elevator.

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022 SERVE SHOTS IN JELL-O CUPS
STEP 1 Mix up your Jell-O and pour it into a muffin tin’s compartments,
filling each about half full.

STEP 2 Place small pebbles into paper cups to weight them. Put a cup in
each tin compartment and cover each with tape.

STEP 3 Wait for the Jell-O to solidify around the paper cups, molding
into a cup shape. Remove the cups and pebbles.

STEP 4 Fill up the Jell-O cups with booze. Be popular at a party near
you.

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023 MAKE DRINKS GLOW IN THE DARK
The magic glowing ingredients? Simple
riboflavin and quinine, plus a trippy black light.
FOR BLUE DRINKS:

STEP 1 Mix any drink you want.

STEP 2 Add tonic water.

STEP 3 Drink it near a black light.

FOR YELLOW DRINKS:

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STEP 1 Crush up a B2 vitamin and put a pinch of the powder in the
bottom of your glass.

STEP 2 Pour in a flavored drink, as the vitamin has a faint bitter taste.

STEP 3 Drink it near a black light.

024 FREEZE LEGO ICE CUBES

Make a mold of LEGO bricks and enjoy the
world’s geekiest ice.
MATERIALS
A LEGO base plate and bricks
Petroleum jelly
Mold compound
Craft knife
Food coloring, if desired

STEP 1 Wash and dry the base plate and blocks.

STEP 2 Build a LEGO tray on the base plate: Make four sides three
blocks in height, then place single bricks inside the border, spacing them
evenly with one or two row of bumps between each.

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STEP 3 Coat the tray in petroleum jelly, then slowly fill the tray with the
mold compound and set aside for at least 12 hours. Bang on the table to
prevent bubbles.

STEP 4 Peel the mold out of the LEGO tray and trim any random bits off
with the craft knife.

STEP 5 Wash the mold and turn it over. Fill the depressions with water
(add food coloring, if you roll that way), slide it in the freezer, and await
your cubes.

025 COOK A HOT DOG WITH ELECTRICAL

CURRENT
An LED display lights up the room and nukes
your hot dog, too.
MATERIALS
Power cord
Wire strippers
Two alligator clips
Soldering iron and solder
Hot dog

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Nonconductive plate
Two metal forks
Assorted LEDs

STEP 1 Using wire strippers, cut off the end of the power cord and peel
back the outer insulation. Snip back the green ground cord and strip the
ends of the remaining two wires.

STEP 2 Solder one small alligator clip to each of the stripped wires
(except for the ground).

STEP 3 Put the hot dog on a nonconductive plate (ceramic works

nicely). Secure each alligator clip to a fork, and stick the forks into the
hot dog.

STEP 4 Stick some LEDs into the hot dog.

STEP 5 Very carefully plug the cord into the wall. Don’t touch the hot
dog or any of the rest of the contraption while the cord is plugged in.

STEP 6 The hot dog will cook in a minute or two. Not that you’re going
to eat it, right?

WARNING
Use this activity to impress your friends with your electrical
chops, not your culinary skills. Eating the resulting hot dog is a
seriously bad idea. Also, keep water very far away from this
science experiment!

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026 MOD YOUR TOASTER FOR FAR-FROM-
AVERAGE TOAST

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Because bread tastes a lot better with funny
faces on it.
MATERIALS
Toaster
Paper
Pencil
Craft knife
Glue stick
Aluminum flashing
Utility knife
Metal file
Bread that needs toasting

STEP 1 Unplug your toaster and remove the insert—that’s the part that
holds bread slices in place. Measure the space between the insert’s two
prongs.

STEP 2 Cut two pieces of paper to fit between these two prongs. Draw
or print a shape that you want to see on your breakfast onto the paper.
Include a tab on either side of each shape that you can wrap around the
prongs to hold your design in place inside the toaster.

STEP 3 Use a craft knife to cut out the negative spaces around and in
your design, creating a stencil.

STEP 4 Glue the paper pieces to aluminum flashing. Use a utility knife
to cut the shapes and their tabs out of the flashing, then smooth the edges
with a metal file.

STEP 5 Gently and thoroughly wash off the glue and remove all the
paper. With the toaster unplugged, use the shapes’ tabs to hook them to
the toaster insert.

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STEP 6 Plug the toaster in, replace the insert, put in some bread, and
make some really fun toast.

WARNING
Toasters may seem harmless enough, but once they’re plugged in
they’re juiced with powerful voltage. No prongs, aluminum
flashing, or paper bits should come into contact with the toaster’s
electric heaters.

027 WIELD A POTATO LAUNCHER

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Potatoes—they’re not just for the dinner table.
Build this cannon and see spuds fly.
MATERIALS
2 feet (60 cm) of 16-gauge insulated wire
Wire strippers
BBQ igniter
Various PVC parts (see diagram below)
Soldering iron and solder
PVC primer
PVC pipe cement
Drill
Two 8-by-2½-inch (20-by-6.35-cm) machine screws
Leather gloves
Electrical tape
Hair spray
Potatoes

STEP 1 Cut the insulated wire in half and strip back a bit of the ends of
each piece.

STEP 2 Find the fine wire near the igniter button’s lip. Twist this wire’s
end with one stripped insulated wire; solder them together. Secure with
electrical tape.

STEP 3 Locate the igniter’s main wire near the base. Cut it, leaving
about 2 inches (5 cm) at the plug end. Strip, twist, and solder the end
with the other insulated wire.

STEP 4 Prime the adapter, coupler, combustion chamber, and bushing.

(Don’t get primer on the threads.)

STEP 5 Immediately apply pipe cement to the parts of the adapter,

coupler, combustion chamber, and bushing that will fit together. Cement
the coupler and bushing to the combustion chamber, and the adapter to
the coupler.

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STEP 6 Right the assembled pieces and twist them while pressing, then
check that the combustion chamber fits 1½ inches (3.75 cm) into the
coupler and equally far into the bushing.

STEP 7 Wait 10 minutes for the cement to dry, then drill two holes in the
combustion chamber at a 90-degree angle to one another, closer to the
coupler than the bushing. Drive in two machine screws, leaving ¼ inch
(6.35 mm) between them inside the pipe.

STEP 8 Prime one end of the 36-inch (91-cm) pipe—this is your barrel
—and the smaller, exposed end of the bushing. Apply pipe cement and
twist to seal.

STEP 9 Wrap the ends of each of the insulated wires around the screws
in the combustion chamber. Then tighten the screws and insulate with
electrical tape.

STEP 10 Wearing leather gloves, lash the ignitor button to the

combustion chamber’s side using electrical tape.

STEP 11 Let the contraption dry for 48 hours before using it. (Otherwise,
it may blow up—trust us on this stuff.) Test the igniter button to make
sure there’s a spark. If there is, twist on the threaded plug at the end.

STEP 12 Place the launcher on the ground and securely lodge a potato
into the end of the barrel, about 2 inches (5 cm) inside. Rotate the potato
to mold it into a cylindrical shape that fits tightly in the barrel.

STEP 13 Remove the end cap and spray a two-second blast of hair spray
into the chamber. Close it again.

STEP 14 Pick up the launcher, point it in a safe direction, and press the
BBQ igniter. Watch that tater go!

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THE ARTILLERY-GRADE PUMPKIN GUN
Gary Arold and John Gill’s favorite pastime is sending pumpkins
flying. They welded two huge propane tanks onto a platform,
connected by a T-shaped steel pipe that extends into a barrel, with
an external air compressor that connects the first tank with a rubber
hose. Yanking on the lever opens a butterfly valve and pummels the
payload with pressurized air, shooting the pumpkin at up to 600
miles per hour (965 km/h).

WARNING
You’re building a pretty powerful spud gun here, buddy. Be
careful of flammable fuels and always, always watch where you

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 point this thing.

028 IMPROVISE A PLANETARIUM

Gaze at a starfield featuring twinkling

constellations of your own devising.
MATERIALS
LilyPad Arduino
Breakout board
USB cable
Velcro

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Sewing needle and thread
Two same-size pieces of black fabric
Conductive thread
Wire strippers
Single-stranded wire
Six LEDs
Soldering iron and solder
Scissors
Fiber optic filament
Electrical tape
3.7-volt polymer lithium ion battery and a mini USB charger for them
Small clear beads
Hot-glue gun

STEP 1 Connect your LilyPad Arduino to your computer using a

breakout board and a USB cable. Then load it up with the code at
popsci.com/thebigbookofhacks.

STEP 2 Sew Velcro around the edges of the fabric pieces, and sew the
LilyPad Arduino near the edge of one fabric piece using conductive
thread.

STEP 3 Strip the wire and make small loops. Solder the loops to the six
LEDs’ connectors, making “buttons.”

STEP 4 Create a pattern and print it out in a size to fill your ceiling. Tape
it onto the other piece of fabric—not the one you attached the LilyPad
Arduino to.

STEP 5 Look at your pattern and decide where you’ll need the most
fiber-optic bundles. Space the LEDs so the filaments can extend from
them to fill the pattern.

STEP 6 Sew the buttons onto the fabric piece that you sewed the LilyPad
Arduino to, connecting each LED to one of the LilyPad Arduinoterminals
with conductive thread. Use terminals 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, and 11.

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STEP 7 Cut fiber-optic filaments into varying lengths and gather them
into six bundles of 10 to 20 strands. Tape the ends of the filaments in
each bundle together.

STEP 8 Attach the battery to the LilyPad Arduino; each LED will light
up. Then use electrical tape to secure the filament bundles over the LEDs
and to the fabric.

STEP 9 Thread the filaments through the second piece of fabric,

following the pattern. It helps to use a small, sharp tool to poke holes for
the filaments. When finished, remove the pattern.

STEP 10 Slide a clear bead onto each filament and hot-glue it on the
underside of the fabric. Trim the filament.

STEP 11 Use the Velcro to connect the fabric pieces together with the
filaments in between them. Hang it up with small nails or hooks, lean
back, and admire your new starry, starry night.

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029 PUT ON A LIQUID LIGHT SHOW
Project extreme grooviness with this simple
psychedelic setup.
MATERIALS
Cardboard sheet
Scissors
Overhead projector with bottom lighting
Two thin, round glass nesting bowls
White wall or sheet
Water
Water-based dye
Mineral oil
Oil-based dye
Eyedropper

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STEP 1 Measure and cut the cardboard sheet so that it fits over the
projector base. Cut a hole in its center that’s slightly smaller than the
small glass bowl.

STEP 2 Place the cardboard on the projector surface. (It will mask the
bowls’ edges and keep your hands from blocking the display.)

STEP 3 Position the projector so that the light shining through the cutout
completely fills your target screen and the edges aren’t visible.

STEP 4 Add just enough water-based dye, such as food coloring, to a

glass of water to produce a light tint.

STEP 5 Place the larger glass bowl on the projector surface face up, so
it’s centered over the cutout. Pour the colored water in it so that its
bottom is covered.

STEP 6 Combine mineral oil with oil-based dye in a separate container,

and fill an eyedropper with it.

STEP 7 Drop small amounts of colored oil into the water with the
eyedropper.

STEP 8 Place the small glass bowl inside the large bowl. The water and
oil mixture should just fill the space between the two bowls.

STEP 9 To start the light show, turn on the projector (and some
psychedelic tunes) and move the bowls gently. Rotate them to swirl the
liquids, or lift and lower them to move the image in and out of focus.

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030 JAM OUT TO A SOUND-REACTIVE
LIGHT BOX

Watch beats blink in time with a slick-looking

LED display.
MATERIALS
Sheet of 3-mm Plexiglas
Ruler

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Table saw
Drill with a glass bit
Audio cable
18-volt adapter
Fine sandpaper
Hot-glue gun
Six white 5-mm LEDs
TIP31 transistor
Electrical wire
Soldering iron and solder

STEP 1 To make the box, measure the Plexiglas into four 6-by-2-inch
(15-by-4.7-cm) pieces and two 2-by-2-inch (5-by-5-cm) pieces. Cut them
with a table saw outfitted with a plastic-cutting blade.

STEP 2 Drill two holes near a corner in one of the long pieces: one for
the audio cable that will go to a stereo and one that’s large enough to fit
the plug on the adapter cord. Go lightly or the Plexiglas may break.

STEP 3 Using a circular motion, sand both sides of the pieces and the
surfaces of the LED bulbs to get a cloudy, frosted look.

STEP 4 Hot-glue three of the rectangular panels together along their long
edges, then glue the square pieces to the ends. Sand the joints after the
glue dries.

STEP 5 Pull the audio cable through one of the box’s holes and peel
back the plastic to expose its wires on the inside of the box.

STEP 6 Wire the electronics according to the circuitry diagram. If you

want more LEDs, buy an adapter that provides each LED with 3 volts.

STEP 7 Put the circuit in the box. Pull the adapter plug through the hole
in the box, then glue it in place.

STEP 8 Glue the last Plexiglas piece onto the box. Plug the audio cable
into your stereo’s speaker output and plug the adapter into a power outlet.

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STEP 9 Pick a song, and see it in lights.

031 WAVE AN LED LIGHTER AT A

CONCERT
Power ballads sound even more epic with this
lighter mod.
MATERIALS
Dead lighter with absolutely no fluid inside

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Pliers
Hacksaw
3-volt LED
Soldering iron and solder
Electrical wire
Two AAA batteries
Aluminum-foil duct tape
Superglue

STEP 1 Check to make sure your lighter is empty. If not, hold down the
lever until the lighter fluid evaporates.

STEP 2 Using the pliers, pry off the metal shield at the top of the dead
lighter. Carefully remove the striker wheel, fuel lever, spring, and fuel
valve inside; set aside.

STEP 3 Cut ¼ inch (6.35 mm) off the bottom of the lighter with the
hacksaw. Pry out the plastic divider.

STEP 4 In the middle of the metal shield’s underside, create a dent with
your pliers—this will be a contact point for the switch.

STEP 5 Solder the LED’s negative lead to the shield near the dent and
the positive lead to a piece of electrical wire 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length.

STEP 6 Solder a piece of wire 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length to the underside
of the metal part of the fuel lever.

STEP 7 Put the spring and fuel lever inside the lighter. Reinsert the metal
shield and thread the long wire attached to the LED through the flint
tube.

STEP 8 Line the batteries up with opposite polarities next to each other,
then tape a piece of stripped wire across them using aluminum-foil duct
tape.

STEP 9 Follow the circuitry diagram, connecting the LED and fuel
lever’s wires to the batteries with aluminum-foil duct tape.

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STEP 10 Slide the batteries inside and glue the bottom back on. It’s
slow-jam time.

032 PARTY WITH AN LED GLOW STICK

STEP 1 Using tape, attach a 3-volt LED’s longer lead to a coin battery’s
positive side and its shorter lead to the negative side.

STEP 2 Disassemble the ballpoint pen. Discard everything but the pen
tube.

STEP 3 Place the LED into the tube and tape the battery in place. Dance.

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 HOW GEEKS GET DOWN
Everyone who actually worked on the floor and isn’t a professional
model, raise your hand.

033 AN LED-LIT DISCO DANCE FLOOR

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When dance fever hit MIT, students built a
computer-controlled, LED-lit disco floor.
A group of undergrads at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology took
on a challenge more daunting than classwork: disco. Before a dorm party,
Mike Anderson, Grant Elliott, Schuyler Senft-Grupp, and Scott Torborg
worked night and day for a week to build a computer-controlled,
pixelated dance floor out of 1-by-4-foot (30-by-120-cm) boards, LEDs,
tinfoil, paper towels, and old computer parts. The result would make
Travolta weep with joy.

Each of the 512 pixels contains three LEDs pointed down at a square of
paper towel that sits in a larger piece of foil. The foil reflects the light up
through the plastic floor, while the paper towel mutes its glow. (LEDs
stay cool, so the towels won’t ignite.) A computer controls each pixel
individually, and the open-source software generates 25 disco-tastic
patterns, enabling DJs to match the light show to the music they’re
playing—and code-savvy disco fans to add new light patterns. What’s
more, by varying the intensity of each bulb, the students can blend light
from the red, green, and blue LEDs housed in each pixel to produce any
color. And should the party get extra wild (and with a dance floor like
this, it will), the platform’s wooden frame and thick layer of Lexan
plastic make it nearly indestructible.

After earning minor fame at MIT (one of the inventors scored dates
because of his uncanny soldering skills), the students began upgrading
the floor. Their latest model has a prebuilt circuit board and instructions,
so anyone can turn a basement into a discotheque.

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034 MAKE A SONIC TUNNEL OF FIRE

See your favorite song burst into flame with this

classic Rubens’ tube.
This may be one of the best bad ideas of all time, and we have physicist
Heinrich Rubens to thank for it: He found that if you make a sound at one
end of a tube, you get a standing wave equivalent to the sound’s
wavelength inside the tube—and that the best way to demonstrate this
principle is with waves of flame synced with music. Right on, Heinrich.

MATERIALS
4-inch (10-cm) ventilation ducting
Nail
Drill
Duct tape
Latex sheets
Scissors

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Two hose splicers
Epoxy putty
Hose T-connector
Propane tank
Teflon tape
Two 4-inch (10-cm) brackets
Screws for your brackets
Scrap wood
Media player and speakers

STEP 1 Leaving 4 inches (10 cm) at either end, mark off every ½ inch
(1.25 cm) down the length of your ducting. (Do it on the side without the
seam.)

STEP 2 Gently tap a nail at each interval, creating divots that will be
easy to drill. Then drill through each resulting depression.

STEP 3 Wrap a strip of duct tape around each end of the tube. Then cut
two squares of latex and tape them across both ends of the tube, creating
an airtight seal.

STEP 4 Select two spots for fuel entry in the seam, each about one-third
of the way across the tube. Tap the locations with a nail to create
depressions, then drill two holes large enough to accommodate your hose
splicers.

STEP 5 Install the hose splicers, securing the edges around the fuel entry
holes with epoxy putty.

STEP 6 Attach the T-connector to the propane nozzle, then the hose
splicers to the T-connector. Wrap the ends of the all the components with
Teflon tape.

STEP 7 Using screws, attach brackets to scrap wood to make a stand.

Then mount the tube onto it.

STEP 8 To use, tape all holes to create a seal. Then pump the tube full of
propane for 2 minutes.

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STEP 9 Remove the tape and test the tube by lighting one hole. If the
flames are 1 inch (2.5 cm) high, it’s ready.

STEP 10 Place a speaker as close as possible to one end of the tube

(without actually touching the end’s latex seal). Hit play, and watch those
sound waves ignite.

WARNING
Things that shoot flames are highly dangerous—even more so
when set next to a full jug of propane. Exercise extreme caution
while building and playing your Rubens’ tube, and always have a
fire extinguisher at the ready.

THE RUBENS TUBE IN ACTION

Why just listen to “Light My Fire” when you can listen to it and see its
sound wave expressed in real flames?

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SHOOT A PROPANE-POWERED FIREGUN
Fire enthusiasts have long used propane “poofers” to shoot huge fireballs
for special effects. But for this particular model, PopSci contributor Vin
Marshall tried a new approach that incorporates striking visual elements

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as well as a bit of science. It took 40 crazed hours of near-nonstop parts
acquisition, construction, and testing in a friend’s partially collapsed
warehouse to finish the poofer. Why would someone go to all that trouble
just to shoot fireballs over the Philadelphia skyline? The better question
is, why not?

035 TURN YOUR CAMPFIRE GREEN

STEP 1 Pour ¼ inch (6.35 mm) of copper sulfate into a small paper cup.
(You can use common tree-root killers, which contain copper sulfate.)

STEP 2 Melt old candle stubs in a double boiler, and pour the wax into
the cup over the copper sulfate.

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STEP 3 Stir the copper sulfate and wax together until the chemical is
coated.

STEP 4 After it cools, peel off the sides of the paper cup.

STEP 5 When you’re done cooking at your campsite, throw the copper-
sulfate-infused wax into the hottest part of the fire and watch the green
flames start licking.

036 HOLD A FLAMING BALL IN YOUR

BARE HAND
STEP 1 Use scissors to cut away a 2-by-5-inch (5-by-12.5-cm) strip of
cloth from an old T-shirt. Roll the cloth into a ball.

STEP 2 Thread a needle with about 2 feet (60 cm) of sewing thread.

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STEP 3 Push the needle all the way through the fabric ball, securing the
loose end of the fabric strip.

STEP 4 Wind the thread around the ball many, many times. When you’re
almost out of thread, pull the needle through an existing loop of thread,
then tie it off and remove the needle.

STEP 5 Soak the ball in isopropyl alcohol; squeeze out any excess that
may drip onto your hands.

STEP 6 Wash any fluid off your hands, light up your fireball, and let it
blaze around in your hand. (The less-adventurous can put on heat-
resistant gloves.)

037 SET OFF A SPINNING FIRE TORNADO

STEP 1 In the center of a lazy Susan, mold clay into a base for a
fireproof bowl. Press the bowl into the clay, and place pieces of molding
clay along the edges of the lazy Susan.

STEP 2 Measure the lazy Susan’s diameter and roll a piece of screen into
a 36-inch- (90-cm-) high cylinder of the same diameter. Use straight pins

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to secure the cylindrical shape.

STEP 3 Pour kerosene onto a rag; place it in the bowl.

STEP 4 With a fire extinguisher nearby, carefully ignite the rag in the
small bowl with a long-handled lighter, then place the screen cylinder
over the lazy Susan, pressing it into the pieces of molding clay.

STEP 5 Give the lazy Susan a whirl. Stand back and watch devious, fiery
nature at work.

STEP 6 To extinguish, don heat-resistant gloves, wait for the lazy Susan
to slow, and remove the screen. Then snuff out the small bowl with a
larger fireproof bowl.

WARNING
All of these fun fiery displays are definitely on the dangerous
side. Exercise extreme caution when getting your pyro on, and
always have a fire extinguisher handy.

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038 IGNITE A HOMEMADE SPARKLER
STEP 1 Using a rotary tool, make a small hole into the top of a medicine
bottle’s lid.

STEP 2 Fill the bottle about one-fourth of the way with water and add 1
teaspoon of salt.

STEP 3 Add 1 tablespoon each of powdered dishwashing detergent and

baking soda, and then put the lid on.

STEP 4 Carefully hold the flame of a lighter or match over the hole until
the gas you’ve just created ignites, firing your sparkler. Celebrate.

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039 WREAK HAVOC WITH THE ULTIMATE
SQUIRT GUN

Water guns have never been more fun. No,

really, we mean it.
This wet weapon is way more than a squirt gun; it’s a powerful water
cannon that shoots more than 1 quart (950 mL) of water up to 50 feet (15
m) in less than 10 seconds. But don’t be a jerk. Keep your H20 gun’s
spray away from other people’s faces.

MATERIALS
Drill
Various PVC parts (see diagram below)
PVC cement
Waterproof grease
Bucket of water

STEP 1 Use a drill to make a ¼-inch (6.35-mm) hole in the center of one
2-inch (5-cm) cap and a 1¼-inch (3-cm) hole in the center of the second
cap. The first is your nozzle; the second is the piston guide.

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STEP 2 Glue the T-connector to the small pipe with PVC cement. When
gluing, immediately insert the pipe into the fitting and turn it to distribute
the solvent evenly. Hold the joint for about 30 seconds to make sure it
sets; wipe off excess glue with a rag.

STEP 3 Slide the piston guide over the small pipe with the open end
facing away from the T-connector.

STEP 4 Glue the reducer bushing to the small pipe’s end, the coupler to
the reducer, and the 1¼-inch (3-cm) pipe to the coupler with the PVC
cement.

STEP 5 Slide the O-ring over the small 1¼-inch (3-cm) pipe and glue the
1¼-inch (3-cm) PVC cap to the pipe.

STEP 6 Glue the nozzle onto the big pipe. Let the apparatus dry.

STEP 7 Apply a small glob of waterproof grease to the inside of the 2-

inch (5-cm) PVC pipe. Insert the piston into the body and push and pull a
few times to evenly spread the goop. When it seems sufficiently
lubricated, firmly push the piston guide onto the body.

STEP 8 To load, use it like a giant syringe: Compress the handle and
stick the huge squirt gun’s end into a bucket of water, then pull up on the
T-connector to draw water into the pipe.

STEP 9 Super-soak somebody near you.

WARNING
This thing can really let loose, so be cautious about spraying it at
living creatures. (Zombies, though, you can totally let have it.)

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040 MAKE A MINI CATAPULT
STEP 1 Lift up and rotate the nail clipper’s little lever.

STEP 2 Glue the bottle cap onto the lever, leaving a little room for your
fingertip at the very end.

STEP 3 Load it up with supersmall ammo, pull it back, and let go to

launch.

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www.circuitmix.com
041 PLAY WITH A BIKE-PART
SPIROGRAPH
Those mathy whirls of color from your
childhood can be yours all over again.
MATERIALS
Bike chain
Thin plywood
Tape
Pen
Jigsaw
Superglue
Colored pens
An assortment of chain rings

STEP 1 Arrange a bike chain on the plywood in a perfect circle and tape
it down. Faithfully trace around the chain’s outer rim, being careful not to
move it.

STEP 2 Using a jigsaw, cut out the circle and discard it. Line up the
chain so that it fits inside the circular hole.

STEP 3 Use superglue to secure the chain all the way around the inner
edge of the hole in the plywood. Let this dry overnight.

STEP 4 Place the plywood frame over paper. Put a chain ring on the
paper and insert a colored pen through one of its bolt holes to make
contact with the paper.

STEP 5 Keeping your pen in the chain ring’s bolt hole, trace around the
bike chain to lay down an awesome design. Experiment with chain rings
that have different numbers of teeth for patterns of varying complexity.

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042 TURN JUNK MAIL INTO PENCILS
STEP 1 Cut a strip of paper—with colors or a pattern that you like—so
it’s 16½ inches (42 cm) in length and 5 inches (12.5 cm) in width.

STEP 2 Apply glue along a long edge and apply a piece of mechanical
pencil lead to it, then roll your paper snugly around the pencil lead.

STEP 3 Continue applying glue every 1 inch (2.5 cm) and rolling up the
paper little by little.

STEP 4 Let the pencil dry overnight. Use a craft knife to sharpen it and
start scribbling.

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043 SET UP A TURNTABLE ZOETROPE

See LEGOs come to life with this classic

animation trick.
The world saw its first modern zoetrope in 1833, and since its invention
the device has paved the way to cinema as we know it. This playful
update uses a strobe light to interrupt your view of a series of still objects
as they go around and around on a record player—causing your eye to

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perceive them as if they were in motion. It’s not 1833 anymore, but the
effect is still pretty mind-boggling.

MATERIALS
Protractor
A record to sacrifice
18 LEGO miniature figures
Superglue
Record player
Strobe light

STEP 1 Using the protractor, measure and draw lines every 20 degrees
on the sacrificial record. Space out the LEGO figures around the edge of
the record according to these marks, and glue them down.

STEP 2 Put the LEGO figures in positions of your choosing—think

about creating the look of continuous motion by carefully changing each
one’s position incrementally from that of the one before it.

STEP 3 Set the record player to 33? RPM.

STEP 4 Adjust your strobe light to flash ten times per second and
position it so that it’s pointed at the zoetrope at close range.

STEP 5 Turn out the lights, turn on the record player and the strobe, and
watch those LEGO figurines start dancing, running, battling, or doing
whatever you want them to do.

044 THE REAL IRON MAN SUIT

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This homebuilt superhero suit looks as good as
the silver-screen version.
Anthony Le has been a fan of Iron Man since he was a kid. When he
heard that the comic-book superhero was hitting the big screen in 2008,
he was inspired to build his own Iron Man suit. That version was more of
a costume, but his next edition—finished just in time for the movie’s
sequel—edges much closer to the real thing. With its dent-proof exterior,
motorized faceplate, and spinning mock Gatling gun, his take on the
movie’s War Machine suit could easily frighten a supervillain—not to
mention kids in the theater.

To make the suit, Le—who is a fitness consultant by day—studied some

concept sketches of the suit posted on the Internet. He focused on the
War Machine suit, donned by Stark’s buddy Jim Rhodes in Iron Man 2,
in part because “it just looks more hardcore.” He used thin, high-impact
urethane for the armor, cutting it into plates and joining them with some
1,500 rivets and washers. He sculpted a clay helmet mold and then used a
mix of liquid resin to create the final product. He added a replica of the
machine gun on the suit’s shoulder made of PVC pipes and other
materials. But that was just cosmetic work. He also added a small servo
motor that opens the faceplate, as in the movie, and built a gun out of
pipes and a motor. LEDs in the eyes and chest-plate further add to the
illusion.

All the LEDs and the motors that drive the gun and the faceplate have
their own batteries hidden within the suit’s large frame. Inside the
chestplate, Le added a hands-free button that activates the helmet. When
the faceplate is open, he just stands up and points his arm forward,
causing his chest to press against the button, triggering the servo motors
in the helmet to close the mask. This, in turn, switches on the red LEDs
set inside the eye openings, which are large enough for him to also see
out of. To open the mask up again, he presses another button.

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Le wore one of his suits to the Children’s Hospital in Aurora, Colorado,
to cheer up the kids, and the staff was so pleased they made him his own
ID card. The name listed? Iron Man.

HARD TO MISS
The material Le used for the armor is thin but takes stress well.
“You can throw it against the wall, and it won’t even be damaged,”
he says. Le has a cult following among fans of the movie featuring
Iron Man—he wore the suit to the theater to see Iron Man 2.

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045 MIX MAGNETIC SILLY PUTTY
STEP 1 Mix 1 tablespoon of basic craft glue and 1 cup (240 ml) of water
in a plastic bag, then add 1 tablespoon of borax. Squeeze to make the
putty.

STEP 2 Wearing gloves and a face mask, spread out the putty and
sprinkle about 2 tablespoons of iron oxide powder onto it. Work it in for
about 5 minutes.

STEP 3 Introduce a magnet to your putty and watch it move and change
shape.

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046 COOK UP FERROFLUID
Believe it or not, this spiky stuff is a fluid. Put it
on a magnet and it goes nuts.
MATERIALS
Syringe
Ferric chloride solution

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Distilled water
Steel wool
Coffee filter
Household ammonia
Oleic acid
Kerosene

STEP 1 With a syringe, measure 10 ml of ferric chloride solution and 10

ml of distilled water into a container.

STEP 2 Add a small piece of steel wool. Stir or swirl the solution until it
turns bright green, then filter it through a coffee filter.

STEP 3 Add 20 ml more ferric chloride solution to your filtered green

solution. While stirring, add 150 ml of ammonia.

STEP 4 In a well-ventilated area, heat the solution to near boiling. While

stirring, add 5 ml of oleic acid. Keep heating until the ammonia smell is
gone (about an hour).

STEP 5 Let cool, and then add 100 ml of kerosene. Stir until the black
color attaches to the kerosene.

STEP 6 Pour off and collect the kerosene layer in a bowl.

STEP 7 Place a magnet under your bowl’s bottom and watch the weird
peaks rise.

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047 CATCH A THRILL ON A BACKYARD
COASTER

Sure, it may not do loop-de-loops, but our

lawyers tell us that’s a good thing.
MATERIALS
5-by-5-inch (12.5-by-12.5-cm) wooden posts
Drill
Screws and bolts
4-by-4-inch (10-by-10-cm) wooden posts

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2-by-4-inch (5-by-10-cm) boards
Measuring tape
Circular saw
Gray sun-resistant 1½-inch (3.75-cm) PVC pipe
Heat gun
PVC of a slightly smaller diameter that fits snugly inside the main PVC size
Casters fitted with skateboard wheels
Rectangular piece of wood or particleboard
Car seat with seat belt
Rope

STEP 1 Survey your land and choose a spot for your backyard coaster.

STEP 2 Design your track. Note that you can’t have a hill that is higher
than the previous peak. If you’re creating multiple hills, the car must
continuously build enough energy by descending hills to make it up
subsequent hills and around corners. Try starting with a downward slope
from about 9 feet (2.75 m) followed by a hill that measures about 6 feet
(1.8 m) at its crest. End the track with a steep uphill that the car won’t be
able to climb over, which will stop it.

STEP 3 Lay down 5-by-5-inch (12.5-by-12.5-cm) posts on the ground as

a base. Screw the posts together with a drill.

STEP 4 Saw the 4-by-4-inch (10-by-10-cm) posts to varying heights that

match your design’s elevation changes. Then screw the posts along the
top of the 5-by-5-inch (12.5-by-12.5-cm) floor to create your elevation.
Leave 1 foot (30 cm) between each post.

STEP 5 Mark and cut 2-by-4-inch (5-by-10-cm) boards into slats as long
as the width of your track. Lay these across the tops of the 4-by-4-inch
(10-by-10-cm) posts and screw them into place.

STEP 6 Drill holes through the gray PVC pipe, and then use the drill to
screw through these holes into the sides of the 2-by-4-inch (5-by-10-cm)
boards, forming the rails and sides of your track. Use a heat gun to mold
the PVC to curves. As you go, connect segments of PVC securely by
sliding a 1-foot (30-cm) section of the smaller diameter pipe into the

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PVC that’s already in place. Screw it in, then slide on the new piece and
screw that in as well.

STEP 7 To make the coaster car, screw wheels onto the bottom of a flat
piece of wood that’s 3 feet (90 cm) long and about the width of the track.
One set of wheels should roll on top of the PVC and the other should ride
along the outside.

STEP 8 Check to see if the car works by rolling it on the track, and make
adjustments to wheel placement if necessary.

STEP 9 Bolt the car seat equipped with a seat belt onto the coaster car,
leaving room in front for the rider’s tucked legs.

STEP 10 Attach a long piece of rope to the car—you can use this to pull
the coaster backward up the first slope for a rider to board.

STEP 11 Test the roller coaster. Place the car on the track and put a sack
of flour on it to serve as a crash-test dummy. Test more than once. If the
tests are successful, consider someday cautiously trying it yourself.

warning
You’ve seen the movie Jackass, right? You know that part where
they tell you not to perform any of the stunts seen in the movie?
That goes for this, too.

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WATER-POWERED JET PACK
When Raymond Li decided to build a jet pack propelled by water instead
of rocket fuel, most of his friends thought he had gone crazy. Worse,
engineers told him it would be impossible to manage the water’s mass
and thrust to keep it stable in the air. Li, however, figured that if he
attached a hose to his pack, and put the engine and water pump in a
separate vessel—which ended up being an extensively modified Jet Ski
—that dragged behind him, he could seriously reduce his weight, and
therefore the amount of thrust needed to stay aloft. In theory, a stiff hose
filled with heavy, pressurized water would also add drag, stabilizing the
jet pack for better forward flight control. It took four prototypes and more

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than 200 flight tests to get it right. But now, with a mere 30-pound (13.5-
kg) pack, the Jetlev-Flyer generates 430 pounds (195 kg) of thrust and
lets Li fly forward at 22 miles per hour (35 km/h) up to three stories high.
That’s quite an upgrade from your average day at the lake.

048 SET UP A PINBALL GAME AT HOME

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Because arcades can’t stay open all the time, and
you’re out of quarters, anyway.
MATERIALS
Peg-Board
Saw
2x4s
Wood glue
Nails
Hammer
Drill
¾-inch (2-cm) drill bit
½-inch (1.25-cm) drill bit
⅛-inch (3-mm) drill bit
5/16-inch- (8-cm-) diameter hex bolt with nut
⅜-inch- (9.5-mm-) diameter spring
Wood
Wood pegs
Bicycle bell
Rubber bands
Scrap wood
PVC pipe elbows
Rubber hose
Marbles

STEP 1 Use the saw to cut pieces of particleboard according to the

measurements in the diagram.

STEP 2 On the board that serves as a ramp, trace your ball at one end to
create a circular shape. Then add ¼ inch (6.35 mm) all around this shape,
and cut it out.

STEP 3 Build the game using nails and wood glue, making sure that the
ramp fits against the back wall and that the opening is large enough for

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the ball to drop in.

STEP 4 Cut a hole into one side of the box so that you can reach in and
grab the ball after scoring tosses.

STEP 5 Stand about 8 feet (2.4 m) away and toss the ball so that it rolls
up the ramp—if it goes in the hole, that’s one point. Any player who
scores may continue until he or she misses; the first to score 15 points
wins.

STEP 6 Toward the bottom of the game, drill through the side boards to
create a ½-inch (1.9-cm) hole in each. Drill another hole next to the first
so that the holes meet, making a long oval hole on each side of the board.

STEP 7 Mark the center of the oval hole on the top of the board, then
drill into it from above with a ?-inch (3-mm) drill bit. Repeat on the other
side.

STEP 8 Cut two pieces of wood into paddles of your desired length.
Sand the edges.

STEP 9 Drill a ?-inch (3-mm) hole from the top near the ends of the
paddles. Slip the paddles into the holes in the side boards.

STEP 10 Place a nail through the holes in the frame, through the paddles,
and into the holes’ bottom. Tap it with a hammer to secure them in place.
Place a peg on either side of each paddle to restrict its range.

STEP 11 To create tunnels, nail down rubber hoses sliced in half

lengthwise and PVC pipe elbows, and for good bumper action, extend
rubber bands between pegs or nail scrap wood to the Peg-Board. If you
want spinners, try foam X shapes secured loosely with a nail. Don’t
forget a ramp and bicycle bell.

STEP 12 Load up the launcher with a marble, pull back the bolt, and
release it—let the game begin.

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049 Play DIY Skee-Ball
Go analog with a good old-fashioned Skee-Ball
toss.
MATERIALS
1-inch (2.5-cm) particleboard
½-inch (1.25-cm) particleboard
¼-inch (6.35-mm) particleboard
Saw
Wood glue
Nails
Rubber ball

STEP 1 Use the saw to cut the Peg-Board to your desired size to form
the base of the pinball machine.

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STEP 2 Measure and cut 2x4s to make a frame. Glue and nail it into
place.

STEP 3 Nail a 2x4 under the top of the frame to prop it up at a slight
angle.

STEP 4 Drill a hole about ½ inch (1.25 cm) in diameter in the bottom
frame piece’s right corner. Insert the hex bolt and slide the spring over
the bolt.

STEP 5 Attach the nut to secure the spring on the bolt. Pull the bolt
down to compress the spring—this is the ball launcher. Place a piece of
scrap wood alongside the bolt to create a guide for the ball.

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050 BUILD A MINT-TIN RACER
STEP 1 Use a drill to make five holes into your tin: two on both of the
tin’s long sides and one in the top corner of the lid.

STEP 2 Measure and cut two wooden sticks so they are long enough to
traverse the width of the mint tin with about ½ inch (1.25 cm) extra on
either side.

STEP 3 Slide the axles through the holes in the side of the tin, and attach
bottle-cap “wheels” to the sticks with hot glue.

STEP 4 To deck out your racer with a flag, insert a straw into the hole in
the tin’s top, and tape a triangular flag to the straw’s top.

STEP 5 Detail your racer however you like.

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051 SHAKE UP A MARTINI IN A MINT TIN
STEP 1 Drill a hole into one end of the mint tin and insert a plastic
nozzle. (You can buy these in bulk online or at home-improvement
stores.)

STEP 2 Buy or fill two travel-size bottles: one with gin or vodka, one
with vermouth.

STEP 3 Place the booze bottles, a paper cup, and an olive inside the tin.

STEP 4 When you need an emergency drink, remove all the tin’s
contents and pour the bottles into the tin.

STEP 5 Close the tin and shake it well.

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STEP 6 Loosen the nozzle, pour into the cup, and garnish with the olive.

052 STRUM A MINT-TIN GUITAR

STEP 1 Position the tin so that its label is facing you. Then trace the
stacked ends of three rulers onto the far right side to make a rectangle.

STEP 2 Using a drill, make a hole in the rectangle on the box’s side, then
cut out the rectangle outline with tin snips.

STEP 3 On the other side of the box, just below the lid’s lip on the side,
make three evenly spaced holes for the guitar strings. Thread the strings
through and knot them off inside the box.

STEP 4 Remove the insides of a cheap ballpoint pen and cut the clear
tube to about the width of your mint tin. Then cut it in half lengthwise.
Make three notches in it for your guitar strings.

STEP 5 Use a hot-glue gun to glue the pen tube facedown onto the tin lid
on the side where you’ve made holes for the strings.

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STEP 6 Insert one ruler into the rectangular cutout so that it goes about
halfway into the mint tin. Secure it with a hot-glue gun.

STEP 7 Cut a credit card to the ruler’s width. Bend one edge up and glue
it to the ruler about ½ inch (1.25 cm) from the ruler’s end.

STEP 8 Cut the other two rulers down to 1 inch (2.5 cm) shorter than the
exposed ruler. Glue them on top of the first ruler.

STEP 9 Drill holes for the eyebolts into the end of the bottom ruler.
Insert and secure them with nuts on the ruler’s bottom.

STEP 10 String the strings over the pen tube and tie them off around the
eyebolts, and start strumming the hits.

053 CARRY A POCKET BILLIARD SET

STEP 1 Use a craft knife to cut a piece of foam to fit inside a mint tin. It
should be just about level with the tin’s top.

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STEP 2 Remove the foam and place it on green felt. Trace around it,
then cut out the shape. Test it to make sure that it fits nicely inside the tin.

STEP 3 Take a small bead (aka, one of your pool balls) and place it in a
corner of the felt. Cut a hole around it to make a pocket. Then trace the
scrap to make pockets in the other three corners.

STEP 4 Glue the felt down onto the foam. Trace and cut the pocket
shapes out of the foam, too.

STEP 5 Assemble the seven beads into a triangle. Place a piece of

copper wire along one side of the triangle; mark its length.

STEP 6 Use this measurement to fold the wire into a triangle shape with
sides of equal length.

STEP 7 Cut a small-diameter copper rod to make a pool cue.

STEP 8 Rack ‘em up wherever you go.

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054 BUILD A MINI ARCADE GAME

No room for a full-on console? Make a mini

version for countertop play.
MATERIALS
Netbook
½-inch (1.25-cm) medium density fiberboard
Ruler
Screws
Screwdriver
Hinge
Hole saw
Buttons and joystick
Label paper
Paint
Table saw with a plastic- cutting blade
Plexiglas
I-PAC 2
Electrical wire
Soldering iron and solder
Hot-glue gun
USB cable
Legal arcade software

STEP 1 Take apart your netbook and measure its LCD screen, obtaining
the dimensions on which you’ll base your arcade design.

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STEP 2 Measure and cut ten pieces of medium-density fiberboard for the
arcade’s body (one each for the back, top, bottom, and sides) and five
pieces for the front.

STEP 3 Screw it together. Mount a hinge in the back so you’ll be able to

open it up and access your electronics.

STEP 4 Measure and cut holes in the front of the arcade for the buttons
and joystick using the hole saw.

STEP 5 Come up with a design for your arcade and print it on the label
paper. Paint the arcade your desired color, then apply your label to the
arcade.

STEP 6 Use the table saw with a plastic-cutting blade to cut Plexiglas
pieces that fit over the pieces of board, and screw them over the label
paper to protect the design.

STEP 7 Place the buttons and joystick and wire them according to the I-
PAC 2’s instructions.

STEP 8 Cut an additional piece of fiberboard to mount behind the LCD,

propping the LCD up inside of the arcade. Make a hole in this board for
wires.

STEP 9 Use the table saw to cut a piece of Plexiglas and mount it in
front of the LCD.

STEP 10 Mount the I-PAC 2 and the base of the netbook inside the back
panel of the arcade with hot glue.

STEP 11 Solder the LCD wire and USB wire directly to the I-PAC 2
board.

STEP 12 Open the arcade’s back and turn on the netbook. Download and
install legal arcade software, and get your game on.

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055 CINCH A NINTENDO-CONTROLLER
BELT
STEP 1 Use a screwdriver to open up the back of the controller and cut
off the cord where it connects to the circuit board. Reassemble the
controller.

STEP 2 Cut the adhesive Velcro to fit the surface of the belt buckle.

STEP 3 Adhere one piece of Velcro to the buckle and the other piece to
the back of the controller.

STEP 4 Hold your pants up, nerd.

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THE LEGO PINBALL MACHINE
In the hands of Netherlanders Gerrit Bronsveld and Martijn Boogaarts,
LEGOs are no kid’s toy. The duo’s hobby is piecing together thousands
of colored bricks—and other LEGO-made components, including
programmable computers—into complex creations. Twenty-five LEGO
hockey sets and 13 LEGO computers make up this arcade with a rubber
band–powered kicker and sensor-activated bumpers, targets, and gates. A
round will set you back 50 cents.

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056 SET UP A SUPERSIZE GAME OF
OPERATION

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This classic kids’ game may be all grown up, but
it’ll still leave you in stitches.
MATERIALS
Large, flat box
Paint
Seven “body parts”
Box cutter
Disposable tin oven trays
Tape
Gray paper
Wire strippers
Buzzer
Three AA batteries and holder
Threaded electrical wire
Five red LEDs
Five 100-ohm resistors
Soldering iron and solder
Metal tongs
Multimeter
Clear ping-pong ball, cut in half

STEP 1 Paint your box and sketch an outline of the patient’s body,
adding as much detail as you want.

STEP 2 Outline the body parts you’ll be “surgically removing.” Add at

least ½ inch (1.25 cm) around the outlines, then use a box cutter to cut
them out. Cut a hole for the nose that can fit all five LEDs, and a hole in
the side of the box so you can easily access its interior.

STEP 3 Cut up and/or combine the oven trays so that they fit closely
around each body part, then tape them under the holes. Line the trays’
bottoms with gray paper.

STEP 4 Strip plastic off the ends of the buzzer’s wires and those of your
battery holder, then connect the buzzer’s positive end to the battery
pack’s positive end.

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STEP 5 Twist each positive leg of the five LEDs to a resistor, then wire
all five resistors to a length of threaded electrical wire. Solder this wire to
the battery holder’s positive wire.

STEP 6 Twist the buzzer’s negative wire to each LED’s negative leg.
Solder in place.

STEP 7 Cut a piece of electrical wire long enough to extend from

underneath the “patient’s” head to outside the box, where the players will
pull it all over the board. Attach one end of this wire to the buzzer’s
negative wire.

STEP 8 Strip the protective coating on the tongs, then twist the other end
of the wire attached to the buzzer’s negative wire around the bare space.
Tape it in place.

STEP 9 To wire the oven tins, cut a long electrical wire for each, making
sure that it will reach the battery pack’s location near the head. Tape each
wire to an oven tin, then connect it to the battery pack’s negative wire.

STEP 10 Tape the red LEDs in the hole for the nose and glue half of a
ping-pong ball on top. Tape the battery pack and buzzer nearby.

STEP 11 Decorate your patient, drop body parts into the tins, and page
your friends to come “operate.”

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057 Play Giant Checkers
Fact: If something is fun, making it larger
makes it even more fun.
MATERIALS
Particleboard
Saw
Paint
U-shaped nails
Two pole hooks

STEP 1 Cut nine 4-foot- (1.2-m-) square pieces of particleboard, and

arrange them in a 12-foot (3.6-m) square. (Using segments will allow you

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to store and transport the board.)

STEP 2 Mark a grid of squares that each measure 1 foot (30 cm). Paint
the squares in alternating colors of your choice.

STEP 3 Use a saw to cut 24 discs that measure 8 inches (20 cm) in
circumference. Paint half the discs one color, half another color.

STEP 4 Hammer a U-shaped nail partway into the center of each disc.

STEP 5 Use the pole hooks to pick up and move playing pieces by the
nail loops.

058 MAKE A REFLECTION HOLOGRAM

Holograms aren’t just for the holodeck. Make a
3D image of an object near you.

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MATERIALS
Class 3A laser diode with an output of 3 to 4 mW
Tweezers
Battery pack
Wooden clothespin
Holography processing and development kit
Distilled water
A small solid object
PFG-03M 2½-by-2½-inch (6.35-by-6.35-cm) holographic plates
Cardboard
Matte black spray paint

STEP 1 Open up the laser diode and, using a pair of tweezers, remove
the lens and the small tension spring. Hook the diode up to a battery
pack.

STEP 2 Secure the clothespin in an upright position, and prop the laser
diode between the clothespin’s prongs.

STEP 3 Prepare the chemical processing solutions with distilled water

and lay out the trays according to the holography processing and
developing kit’s instructions.

STEP 4 Set up the object that you want a hologram of 15 inches (40 cm)
from the laser. Glue or tape it down if you’re concerned about movement.

STEP 5 Make the room fairly dark, andadjust the laser in its holder so
that the beam spreads out horizontally, with the object centered in its
light.

STEP 6 Place cardboard in front of the laser to block light from reaching
the object.

STEP 7 In the darkest area, remove a holographic plate from its

container and (after immediately closing the container) lean the
holographic plate against the object so that the sticky, emulsion-coated
side touches it.

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STEP 8 Request that everyone in the room hold still, and lift the piece of
cardboard to expose the holographic plate to the laser light for about 20
seconds. Replace the cardboard.

STEP 9 Process the exposed holographic plate according to the

holography kit’s instructions, and then spray-paint the sticky side of the
plate black.

STEP 10 When the plate is dry, place it in front of any incandescent

(unfrosted) light source—a flashlight or the sun, for instance—to see the
hologram take shape.

059 WIELD A DIY LIGHT SABER

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Now the force can always be with you, too.
MATERIALS
10-inch (25-cm) piece of 1.25 inch (3-cm) PVC pipe
Black spray paint
Drill
4 feet (1.2 m) of electrical wire
Wire strippers
30 LEDs
Pliers
2½-foot (75-cm) length of ½-inch (2-cm) frosted polycarbonate tube
Two AA batteries
Soldering iron and solder
On/off switch
Duct tape

STEP 1 Spray-paint the PVC pipe black—this is your handle—then drill

a hole in it for the on/off switch.

STEP 2 Cut two 2-foot (60-cm) lengths of electrical wire and strip both.

STEP 3 Attach the positive leads of the LEDs down the first wire, evenly
spacing them. Then attach the LEDs’ negative leads to the other stripped
wire. Use pliers to crimp the LEDs’ legs, securing them to the wires.

STEP 4 Drill a hole in the polycarbonate tube’s top. Pull the string of
LEDs into the tube through the other end, thread its wire through the
hole, and tie it off.

STEP 5 Place the batteries next to each other with their polarities facing
opposite directions. Attach a piece of wire across their ports with
aluminum-foil duct tape.

STEP 6 Solder two wires to the on/off switch and thread it through the
hole for the switch in the handle, first bringing it up through the hole in
the bottom.

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STEP 7 Insert the tube into the handle so that the wires from both the
LED string and the switch dangle out of the handle’s end. Tape the
handle and tube together.

STEP 8 Solder the negative wires from the switch and LED string to the
battery pack’s negative port, and the positive wires from both to the
positive port.

STEP 9 Duct-tape the handle’s bottom to hold the battery pack inside.
Turn it on and go get a Sith.

060 HACK YOUR MAGIC 8 BALL

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Can you make this fortune-telling gizmo say
whatever you want? It is decidedly so.
MATERIALS
Magic 8 Ball
Plexiglas cutter
Screwdriver
Razor
Sandpaper
Extra-fine permanent marker
Superglue

STEP 1 Use a Plexiglas cutter to cut through the glue at the ball’s
equatorial seam, then carefully pry it open.

STEP 2 Inside there’s a cylinder of blue dye. Remove the screws that
hold it in place, and then pour out and reserve the liquid. Fish the answer
ball out.

STEP 3 Pat the answer ball dry. Use a razor and sandpaper to scrape off
the existing messages.

STEP 4 Write the messages you desire on the ball using an extra-fine
permanent marker. Wait for the ink to dry.

STEP 5 Put the answer ball inside the cylinder, and then transfer the blue
liquid back into the cylinder, too.

STEP 6 Glue the cap on the cylinder and reinsert it inside the two halves
of the Magic 8 Ball.

STEP 7 Glue the ball back together, let it dry, and enjoy rewriting the
future.

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061 GO ANYWHERE WITH VIRTUAL-
REALITY GLASSES
. . . anywhere that Google Street View goes, that
is.
MATERIALS
Safety goggles
Large piece of cardboard
Pencil
Craft knife
Tape
Smartphone

STEP 1 Lay the safety goggles on the cardboard so that they’re facing
forward. Trace around the shape, adding at least 2 inches (5 cm) in front.

STEP 2 Roll the goggles up so that they’re resting on an end. Trace

around that side, adding extra space again.

STEP 3 Using the craft knife, cut out your tracing as one piece, then fold
it so you have a four-sided rectangular tube that fits perfectly around your
goggles. Secure it with tape and slide the goggles just inside.

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STEP 4 On a separate piece of cardboard, trace the cardboard box’s
front, leaving 1-inch (2.5-cm) tabs on either side. Cut it out, then trace
your smartphone onto its center. Cut out the shape of your phone, making
a window, and insert this cardboard piece into the rectangular tube
opposite the goggles.

STEP 5 Dial up Google Street View and locate a place you’ve always
wanted to go and tape your phone over the window.

STEP 6 Don your virtual-reality glasses, and take a walk someplace far,
far away.

062 FILE-SHARE WITH A USB DEAD DROP

Camouflage a USB flash drive so that you can
swap files on the sly.
MATERIALS
USB flash drive
Screwdriver
Plumber’s tape

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Drill with masonry bit
Cement
Paint, if desired

STEP 1 Stick your USB drive into your computer’s port and upload any
files you want to share, then remove it.

STEP 2 Scout for a good place to put your dead drop. You may need a
drill with a masonry bit to make a hole in concrete, like the one you see
here.

STEP 3 Slide your USB inside and use cement to secure it in place.
Don’t get any cement on the USB itself. If you want extra camouflage,
paint a bit around it.

STEP 4 Scram—and let your contacts know where the secret docs are.
To retrieve files from a dead drop, just line your laptop’s USB port up
with the USB drive and slide them together.

063 BUILD A BRISTLEBOT

All the fun of a hyperactive pet, minus all the
annoying shedding.
MATERIALS

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Toothbrush with angled bristles
Rotary tool
Double-sided foam tape
Pager motor
Glue
Coin battery
Electrical tape
Decorations

STEP 1 Use a rotary tool to cut the head off a toothbrush. Apply double-
sided foam tape to the back.

STEP 2 Salvage a pager motor with two wires and connect the wires to a
coin battery, positive to positive and negative to negative. Tape the wires
in place on the battery with electrical tape.

STEP 3 Add decorations, then attach the motor and battery to the foam
tape on the toothbrush. Watch the robot merrily frolic.

064 MAKE A MINI WHIRLING MOTOR

Send current up over a magnetic field for some
head-spinning results.
MATERIALS

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6 feet (2 m) of enameled copper wire
C battery
Wire strippers
Electrical tape
Two safety pins
AA battery
Magnet

STEP 1 Wrap the wire several times around the C battery, leaving a few
inches of excess at each end.

STEP 2 Slide the coil you just made off the battery. Pull one end of the
excess wire through the coil, and then wrap it multiple times around the
coil to hold it together. Leave about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of excess. Repeat
with the other end of the wire.

STEP 3 Strip the bits of wire extending from the coil.

STEP 4 Using electrical tape, secure safety pins to both ends of the AA
battery with the hinge ends sticking up.

STEP 5 Stick the coil’s stripped ends through the holes in the hinge ends
so the coil is centered over the battery.

STEP 6 Place the magnet on top of the battery, then give the coil a push
and watch it spin.

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065 RIG AN ANIMATRONIC HAND
Need an extra hand? Build one—just don’t
blame us if it gets you in trouble.
MATERIALS
Marker
Paper
Plastic tubing
Craft knife
Nylon string
Black tape
CD case
Hot-glue gun
Plastic clothes hanger
Cell foam
Glove, if desired

STEP 1 Outline your hand with a marker on a piece of paper, and mark
where the joints and knuckles are.

STEP 2 Cut five “fingers” from the plastic tubing—they should be as

long as the distance from your middle fingertip to your wrist.

STEP 3 Cut a V-shaped notch in the underside of each finger to make

joints.

STEP 4 Insert a 3-foot (90-cm) length of nylon string into each finger. To
secure the string, pull it all the way out of the fingertip, then loop it
through the notch closest to the fingertip and tie a knot. Tape it down at
the fingertip and at the wrist.

STEP 5 Snap off a thin plastic strip from the spine of a salvaged CD
case. Place the plastic strip over the four fingers about where they would
meet the top of the hand. Hot-glue the strip to the fingers.

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STEP 6 Place the hand palm up. Apply tape around the base of the
fingers, then hot-glue the thumb to them (just don’t melt the plastic).
Remove the tape when dry.

STEP 7 Cut another length of tubing 1 foot (30 cm) long. Thread each of
the strings extending out of the wrist end of the finger tubes through the
new tube.

STEP 8 Cut another piece of plastic from the CD case and glue it so it
straddles the finger tubes and the arm tube, stabilizing the wrist.

STEP 9 To make a handle, cut open a plastic coat hanger and glue the
pieces together into a square shape. Then glue it to the end of the arm.

STEP 10 Give your new hand the gift of human touch by applying thin
pieces of foam to the fingertips and the palm of the hand. Put a glove on
it if you like.

STEP 11 Make loops in the ends of all the finger strings using tape or
knots. Hold one end of the square handle against the palm of your own
hand, then insert your fingers into these loops and practice gently tugging
on them to make the hand move creepily about.

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066 THE ELECTRIC GIRAFFE
It walks, it blinks, it seats six, and it blasts
Kraftwerk. Meet one man’s enormous pet
project.

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It started with a 7-inch (18-cm) walking toy giraffe and a desire to see
Burning Man—the annual art-and-rave party in the desert in Black Rock,
Nevada—from a higher vantage point. A year later, Lindsay Lawlor rode
into the desert art festival atop Rave Raffe, a 1,700-pound (771-kg)
robotic giraffe sporting 40 strobes, 400 LEDs, and bone-shaking
speakers.

Lawlor wanted his Burning Man ride to be a true walking vehicle, so he

copied the small toy’s locomotion system on a massive scale. The front
and back legs opposite each other step ahead at the same time, propelled
by an electric motor. When those legs land, hydraulic brakes lock the
wheeled feet, and the other two legs take a step. Canting from side to
side, Raffe lumbers ahead at about 1 mile per hour (1.6 km/h). A 12-
horsepower propane engine runs only to recharge the batteries, so the
beast is quiet and efficient, while a pneumatic pump raises and lowers the
giraffe’s massive neck. When Lawlor let Raffe shuffle off alone in the
desert, it walked for 8 hours.

Since the giraffe’s debut, Lawlor (a part-time laser-light-show designer)

has added new features, including computer-controlled flashing giraffe
spots, an electroluminescent circulatory system, and a gas grill.

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067 CREATE AUDIO ART OUT OF
CASSETTE TAPE

Get your John Cage on with a hack that’s half

musical instrument, half graffiti.
MATERIALS
Cassette player and recorder
Screwdriver
Wire strippers
Electrical wire
Scissors
Rubber thimble
Superglue
Glove
Project box
Drill
On/off switch
Soldering iron and solder
Battery and battery holder
Velcro
Strips of audio tape

STEP 1 Pop open the cassette player’s door. Push the play button to
make a metal mechanical component called the playhead slide down.
Remove the screws securing the playhead.

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STEP 2 Turn your attention to the cassette player’s back. Remove all the
screws and open up the case. Take a good look at the circuit board, noting
where the playhead, speaker, and battery leads connect.

STEP 3 Unscrew and extract the circuit board with the speaker and
playhead attached. Detach the drive motor and microphone from the
circuitry itself.

STEP 4 Find the contacts that move together when you hit the play
button. Sever the wires connecting them to the play button, but not the
ones to the circuit board.

STEP 5 Cut the wires that connect the playhead and speaker to the
circuit board.

STEP 6 Cut holes in the rubber thimble and thread the playhead’s wires
through them. Glue the playhead’s base to the end of the thimble, and
then glue the thimble over the finger of a glove.

STEP 7 Fit the circuit board into the project box, and drill holes into one
side to thread the playhead’s wires through. Reattach the wires to the
circuit board.

STEP 8 Drill two holes in the project box for the on/off switch’s wires.
Solder these to the wires that the play button formerly controlled (they
were connected to the contacts removed in step 4). Glue the switch to the
box.

STEP 9 Cut a larger hole on top of the project box and super-glue the
tape recorder’s original speaker in the box. Reconnect the speaker’s
wiring to the circuit board.

STEP 10 Put the battery holder inside the project box. Attach the
holder’s wires to the circuit board where its original battery terminals
were connected.

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STEP 11 Attach the project box to the back of the glove with Velcro. The
wire leading to the playhead on your fingertip should allow for hand and
finger movement. If necessary, splice in extra electrical wire.

STEP 12 Take apart a cassette tape and remove its tape from the spools.
Arrange the tape on an interior wall.

STEP 13 Place batteries into the battery holder, turn the switch on, and
run the playhead over strips of audio tape. Experiment with speed—nail
the right tempo, and you’ll hear the original recording.

068 SCRATCH A PIZZA-BOX TURNTABLE

STEP 1 Cut a small hole in your pizza box’s lid.

STEP 2Tape your optical mouse inside the lid so that its eye points up
through the hole when you close the box.

STEP 3Cut a cardboard disc and attach it to the box using a pushpin so
that it can spin around over the mouse’s eye.

STEP 4Open your mixing software and scratch away.

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069 PIRATE A VINYL RECORD
If you live in fear of scratching a super-rare
record, this silicone mold is for you.
MATERIALS
Four wood boards 14¼ inches (36.5 cm) in length
Nails
Hammer
Glass plate
Caulking
Record
Dowel
Silicone rubber designed for mold making
Casting resin

STEP 1 Nail together the boards to make a square wood frame. Place the
frame on the glass plate, and seal around the inside edge with caulking.

STEP 2 Put the record you want to copy inside the frame on the glass
plate—the side you want to copy should be face up. Fit a dowel into the
record’s hole.

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STEP 3 Prepare the silicone rubber and pour it into the mold. Let it dry
overnight.

STEP 4 Peel off the silicone mold, then trim any excess from around its
edges.

STEP 5 Mix the casting resin and pour it into the silicone mold. Once it’s
set, loosen the cast and remove.

STEP 6 Pop your repro record onto your record player and hit play.

070 CRAFT A BOOM BOX DUFFEL BAG

STEP 1 Create a simple image of a boom box, and draw or print it onto
contact paper to create a stencil. The boom box’s speakers should be

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more or less the same size as your speakers, which are best if they’re of
the cheap desktop variety.

STEP 2 Using a craft knife, carefully cut out the stencil.

STEP 3 Lay the duffel bag flat and remove the back of the contact paper.
Smooth the contact paper over the fabric.

STEP 4 Squeeze out a line of paint at the top of the stencil, and use a
piece of cardboard to spread the paint over it. Repeat until the paint is
well distributed. Remove the stencil.

STEP 5 After the paint has dried, cut two holes slightly smaller than
your speakers out of the design. These are the holes for the speakers.

STEP 6 Remove the speakers’ backs and slide the speakers into the holes
from the outside. Reattach the backs with the same screws, sandwiching
the fabric.

STEP 7 Plug the speakers into your portable media player, shoulder up
the bag, and pump some jams.

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071 MAKE YOUR TIE GLOW IN THE DARK
STEP 1 Use a needle to poke a hole into the end of a tie where the EL
(electroluminescent)wire will enter. It’s best to use heavy-duty fabrics
and to follow the seams.

STEP 2 Sew a piece of Velcro onto the tie and attach another piece to a
battery pack. (We fit ours at the end of the tie.)

STEP 3 Draw a design, lay EL wire over the sketch, and tape it to the tie.

STEP 4 Measure heavy-duty fishing line that’s more than twice the
length of your EL wire. Thread a sturdy needle with the line and make a
knot at its end.

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STEP 5 Sew the wire down, securing it every ½ inch (1.25 cm). Remove
the tape.

STEP 6 Plug the wire into the battery pack and never wear a boring tie
again.

072 PUT HEAD-PHONES IN YOUR HOODIE

STEP 1 Use a craft knife to carefully detach the speakers from a
headphone band, keeping the ear cushions and speakers (and the wire
between them and the one that runs to a media player) intact.

STEP 2 Put on a lined hoodie. Safety-pin the ear cushions in place and
test that they fit comfortably.

STEP 3 With a heavy-duty needle, sew four strips of Velcro onto each
ear cushion’s spot in the hoodie, and four more strips to the back of each
ear cushion.

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STEP 4 Cut a slit in the lower center of the hood where the speakers’
wires will join and enter the lining.

STEP 5 Cut a slit into the lower corner of the hoodie’s front where the
cord will come out.

STEP 6 Check to make sure your wire is long enough to reach the
incision in the jacket’s front. If it’s not, desolder the cord and solder on a
longer one.

STEP 7 Attach the speakers to the Velcro and feed the cord into the
hood’s lining and out the front.

STEP 8 Pull up your hood and get skulking. To launder, detach the ear
cushions and pull out the cord.

073 USE A GLOVE ON A TOUCH SCREEN

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STEP 1 Thread a sturdy needle with 1 foot (30 cm) of conductive thread.

STEP 2 On the outside of a glove’s pointer finger, sew a few stitches—

enough to cover an area of about ¼ inch (6.35 mm) in diameter.

STEP 3 Turn the glove inside out, and sew three to five stitches. Allow
some extra thread to dangle—this will ensure that your finger touches the
conductive thread, completing a mini circuit and allowing the screen to
pick up on your gestures.

STEP 4 Swipe and tap away. If you find that typing with your glove
often results in hitting neighboring letters, pull out a few threads from the
outside of the fingertip.

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074 PUMP JAMS THROUGH AN OLD-
SCHOOL PHONOGRAPH

This phonograph probably hasn’t played any

new music since Stravinsky. Give it new life with
this modernizing mod.
MATERIALS
Wooden box
Drill with a hole bit
Felt
Miniature mono amplifier with tone control
Transformer for the amplifier
Two potentiometer knobs
3.5-mm stereo socket
Power plug
Power switch
Speaker
Soldering iron and solder
Electrical wire
Hot-glue gun
Brass horn from an old phonograph
Media player

STEP 1 Measure and cut two holes in the top of your box: one for the
brass horn and a smaller one for the stereo socket.

STEP 2 Measure the box’s inside and cut felt to those dimensions, then
line the box with felt—it will make for better sound.

STEP 3 Set up the electronics according to the diagram, drilling holes for
the power source, potentiometers, and power switch as you go.

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STEP 4 Place the horn in its hole and hot-glue it in place. Sand and
varnish the box, if you desire.

STEP 5 Close up the box, plug your media device into the stereo socket,
and plug the contraption’s power cable into an outlet.

STEP 6 Enjoy the sweet, sweet sound of anachronism.

075 AMPLIFY MUSIC WITH PAPER CUPS

STEP 1 Turn one paper cup upside down and stick a toothpick through
the bottom.

STEP 2 Put another cup on top of it so that it rests perpendicular to the

first cup and is secured by the toothpick.

STEP 3 Cut a hole into the bottom of the top cup, and insert an earbud
from your media player.

STEP 4 Repeat with the other two cups, then listen to your favorite tunes
in stereo.

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076 MAKE CUSTOM-FIT EARBUDS
Because anything you stick in your ear every
day should be comfortable.
MATERIALS
Earbuds
Craft knife
Silicone putty

STEP 1 Use a craft knife to remove the stock tip (usually made of foam
or rubber) that your buds came with.

STEP 2 Follow the instructions on your putty package to get the putty
ready.

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STEP 3 Pull up on the tip of an ear and, with your mouth open, press
some putty in gently, folding in or removing the excess to create a flush,
clean fit.

STEP 4 With the putty still in, insert the bud.

STEP 5 After the silicone has set (about 10 minutes), remove the mold
by gently twisting it out of your ear.

STEP 6 Gently pull the bud out of the mold and use the craft knife to
make a small hole in the mold to allow sound to come through. Reinsert
the bud.

STEP 7 Repeat the entire process on the other earbud and enjoy a
personalized fit.

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077 PUT A NEW SPIN ON AN OLD CD
In the age of MP3s, most people have a lot of old
CDs lying around. Here’s what to do with them.

EASY SPINNING TOP

Using a hot-glue gun, secure a large marble to the underside of a
compact disc, right under the hole. Glue a plastic bottle cap to the
top and give it a whirl.

BEER SPILL BLOCKER

Put a CD over your beer bottle so the bottle’s neck sticks up through
the CD’s hole. Now when you knock the bottle over accidentally,
the CD will prevent it from tipping all the way over—and spilling
your brew.

ULTIMATE (COMPACT) DISC GOLF

This one’s truly easy: Take an old CD and throw it around a disc
golf course with some friends. Just don’t throw it at your friends.

SUPERSHINY COASTERS
Cover compact discs with felt and use them as coasters. Make sure
you cover the side with the artist’s information on it—you don’t
want anyone knowing you once paid actual money for that Third
Eye Blind CD, do you?

AIR HOCKEY IN A PINCH

Place a CD on a table about the size of, well, an air hockey table,
and mark goal zones with tape. Stand across from your opponent,
seize a CD spindle, and use it as an air hockey mallet to swat the CD
back and forth.

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078 GET YOUR AIR DRUM ON WITH
ELECTRIFIED DRUMSTICKS

Now the masses can finally hear your brilliant

air drumming.
This very cool DIY drumming setup uses an Arduino and a MIDI—that’s
short for “musical instrument digital interface”—device to create a drum
kit sound without the drum kit price tag. Move the drumsticks to hit the
snare or cymbal; tap your feet to hear the bass or hi-hat.

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MATERIALS
Two 1 ½-inch (3.75-cm) wooden dowels, about 1 foot (30 cm) in length
Drill
Eight USB female type A connectors
Three ADXL335 accelerometers
Electrical wire
Wire strippers
Soldering iron and solder
Two 1 ½-inch (3.75-cm) vinyl end caps
Rubber-soled shoes you don’t mind donating to the cause
Photocell
47k-ohm resistor
Four USB male-to-male type A cables
Arduino UNO
Five-pin DIN connector
5-volt DC-power supply with 2.1mm jack
USB-to-MIDI interface
Computer

STEP 1 Drill a hole through the two dowels—these will be your

drumsticks. In each drumstick, widen the holes to fit a USB female
connector at one end and an accelerometer at the other end.

STEP 2 Follow the circuitry diagram to solder together your cymbal and
snare, housing their circuitry in the left and right drumstricks,
respectively. Cover the ends of the dowels with vinyl end caps.

STEP 3 Make a hole through the rubber sole of each shoe, drilling from
the heel to the toe. Widen the holes to fit a USB female socket at both
heels, an accelerometer near the toe of the left shoe, and a photocell near
the toe of the right shoe.

STEP 4 The left shoe will function as your bass drum pedal, while the
right will work as a hi-hat pedal. Follow the circuitry diagram to attach
their components.

STEP 5 Use the male-to-male USB connectors to attach both the

drumsticks and the shoes to the remaining four USB female connectors.

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Attach these USB ports to the Arduino UNO and the drumsticks and
shoes to the five-pin DIN connector according to the circuitry diagram.

STEP 6 Download the drum kit code from

popsci.com/thebigbookofhacks. Program your Arduino with the code and
start running it.

STEP 7 Plug your MIDI device into the DIN port, then connect the
MIDI device to your computer. Plug the 5-volt DC-power supply into a
wall outlet.

STEP 8 Slip the shoes onto your feet, pick up your sticks, and drum
away. Head banging is encouraged.

079 Amuse Yourself with a Flipperdinger

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Make uncles everywhere jealous with this dorky
device, which makes a ball hover in midair.
MATERIALS
Putty
Long hollow reed
Knife
Smaller hollow reed
Acorn cap
Glue
Small, lightweight ball

STEP 1 Put putty into one end of the long reed, making an airtight seal.
Near this end, make a hole through the reed. Stick the smaller reed into
this hole, making a nozzle.

STEP 2 Remove the cup-shaped cap of an acorn and poke a hole in its
center. Then fit the cup over the nozzle and secure it with glue.

STEP 3 Place the ball in the acorn cap and blow lightly but steadily into
the open end of the reed. When done right, the ball rises slowly on a jet
of air, hovering above the nozzle. As you ease off, the ball settles back
into the cap, to the wonderment of all.

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080 PLAY A POCKET THEREMIN

Throw together this pint-size, light-sensitive

theremin for spooky sound effects on the cheap.

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MATERIALS
Two 555 IC timers
Two photocells
Two 0.01-mF capacitors
1k-ohm resistor
5k-ohm potentiometer
2-position PCB terminal
8k-ohm, 1-inch (2.5-cm) speaker
9-volt battery snap
Electrical wire
Soldering iron and solder
Drill
Project box
9-volt battery

Remember those eerie sci-fi soundtracks from the 1950s? Chances are
those oscillating noises were generated by a theremin. Designed by
Russian physicist Léon Theremin and popularized by Robert Moog, a
full-fledged theremin will set you back $400. Or you can build this
pocket-size version—it’s light-sensitive, so play it in subdued lighting for
the best sound effects.

STEP 1 Wire your circuit according to the circuitry diagram below,

soldering your connections. Keep the wiring loose enough that you can
insert it into the box.

STEP 2 Drill nine holes in the sides of the project box, spaced to match
the circuitry diagram.

STEP 3 Insert the circuit inside the project box. Thread the loose wires
through the holes in the box.

STEP 4 Solder on the photocells, potentiometer, speaker, and battery

snap.

STEP 5 Connect the snap to the 9-volt battery. You should immediately
hear an eerie noise. If you don’t, check your wiring for faulty
connections.

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STEP 6 Head to a spot with low light and, to produce a wide variety of
sounds, move your hands over the theremin’s photocells to vary the
frequency and pitch of the output.

STEP 7 Now go film your own retro sci-fi flick; you’ve already got the
sound effects in your pocket.

MAKING MUSIC WITH LASERS

Playing the harp isn’t the most high-tech pastime—unless, like Stephen
Hobley, you use lasers in place of the strings. Though not the first home-
built laser harp, Hobley’s creation is unquestionably the coolest. Played
by disrupting the laser beams with the hands, it can produce just about

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any sound. Better yet, it’s also a fully functioning controller for a version
of Guitar Hero.

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www.circuitmix.com
081 CUSTOMIZE YOUR WELCOME MAT
STEP 1 Use a box cutter to incise a 2-inch (5-cm) border in three
welcome mats. Set the border aside.

STEP 2 Cut uniformly sized squares from each welcome mat.

STEP 3 Make stencils for each alphabet letter. Use spray-paint to stencil
the squares with letters. Leave some blank.

STEP 4 Use one of the borders as a frame and fill it with letters and
blank spaces of your choosing.

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082 ORGANIZE YOUR ENTRYWAY WITH
RECYCLED CANS
Make can cubbies for all those scarves, gloves,
hats, and wallets.
MATERIALS
Assortment of cans
Drill
Several screws

STEP 1 Choose an assortment of can types and sizes—paint cans, soup

cans, and so on. Clean them all well.

STEP 2 Use a drill to make two holes in each can’s base, both directly
across from each other. (If your can has a handle, be sure to drill your
holes so the handle will hang down toward the floor.)

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STEP 3 Mark stud positions on your entryway wall. Screw through each
can’s top hole first (larger cans will need to be attached to studs). Then
straighten the cans and screw through the bottom holes.

STEP 4 Hang stuff on and put things inside the cans.

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083 GIVE A DOORKNOB A NEW SPIN
Despite the saying, a doorknob is only as dumb
as you are. Repurpose this ubiquitous fixture for
utility and fun.

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084 SET UP A SECRET DOOR

You don’t have to be an action-movie character

to have a private passage.
Contrary to what Batman would have you believe, building a hidden
doorway isn’t very hard. All you need is a room that leads into another
room, three bookcases you don’t mind modding, and a few pieces of
hardware. Let the vanishing acts begin.

MATERIALS
Drill
Rolling caster
Three matching bookcases
Saw
Bolts
Drill
Three hinges with screws
Chalk
Two pieces of wood trim
Wood glue
Six magnets

STEP 1 Using a drill, attach a rolling caster to the bottom left side of the
bookcase that you plan on putting in the middle—the one that will swing
back into your lair.

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STEP 2 Once the caster is installed, check to see if the bookcase is the
same height as the other two. If not, saw off some trim along the bottom.

STEP 3 Mount one of the other bookcases to the wall just to the right of
the doorway, using multiple bolts and washers to secure it to the ceiling
or through a wall stud.

STEP 4 Use three evenly spaced hinges to attach the swinging bookcase
to the stationary case on the right. This bookcase should now cover the
doorway completely and move backward into the hidden room.

STEP 5 Use a piece of chalk to trace the arc of the door’s swing. Figure
how much the door’s movement will interfere with the shelf that goes on
the left side, and use a saw to cut away a section in that case’s right and
back side so that the door will swing freely, cutting all the way from the
top to the bottom.

STEP 6 Line up the third bookcase on the wall next to the swinging
bookcase and test it. If you need more clearance, continue to sand or saw
down the back right corner.

STEP 7 Once the swing is perfect, bolt the third bookcase to the ceiling
or a wall stud.

STEP 8 Glue a piece of matching wood trim to the front of each

stationary case.

STEP 9 Glue two thin magnets to the center case’s top and bottom left
corners, and one more at its center.

STEP 10 On the left case, glue three thin magnets to the top, bottom, and
center of the case's front left edge, lining them up with the magnets on
the center case. This will allow the door to catch securely as it closes.

STEP 11 Secretly hang out in your hidden lounge.

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085 MAKE INVISIBLE SPEAKERS
Sacrifice a few old books for a camouflaged
sound source.
MATERIALS
Six hardcover books
Two desktop speakers
Pencil
Jigsaw
Clamps
Pin
Hot-glue gun
Drill
Media player

STEP 1 Trace the profile of a speaker onto the cover of one book, then
draw a square around it with ½ inch (1.25 cm) on all sides.

STEP 2 Drill a hole in the cover and then use a jigsaw to cut out this
shape, piercing all the way through the book.

STEP 3 Trace the hole onto a second book’s front cover, and onto a third
book’s back cover.

STEP 4 Cut this shape out of both books, cutting all the way to the
unmarked cover without cutting through it.

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STEP 5 On each book, fold the covers back and clamp them together.
Use the jigsaw to cut away the page bits that are closest to the spine.
(These will block sound.)

STEP 6 Drill holes into the spines’ outsides.

STEP 7 Attach the speaker to the inside of the central book with hot
glue, avoiding sensitive parts like the front. Then glue the three books
together at their sides and clamp together; let dry.

STEP 8 Cover the edges of the inside cavity with glue.

STEP 9 Drill a hole into the back of the central book and run the speaker
wire out to a media player. Repeat with the other three books, then hide
your book speakers amid your favorite tomes.

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086 MONITOR YOUR HOME WITH A
LASER SECURITY SYSTEM

Everybody loves a good laser show . . . except

maybe the thief caught in one.
MATERIALS
Two project boxes
Drill
Photocell
12-volt siren
5k-ohm variable resistor
2N3904 transistor
100uF capacitor
9-volt battery
Electrical wire
Wire strippers
Soldering iron and solder
Velcro
5-milliwatt red laser
Switch
Hot-glue gun
3.2-volt AC adapter
Small mirrors, if needed
Mounting putty, if needed

STEP 1 Drill two holes in the first project box: one for the siren, and one
for the photocell. This will be the receiver.

STEP 2 Follow the circuitry diagram at near right, soldering together the
components with electrical wire.

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STEP 3 Install the assembled components inside the receiver project
box. Mount the photocell and the siren on the box’s sides and connect it
to the interior wiring.

STEP 4 Drill two holes in the second project box: one for the switch, and
one for the laser. Mount the laser and switch inside this box with hot
glue.

STEP 5 Cut off and strip the ends of the AC adapter wires and run them
into the box. Use electrical wire to connect them to the laser and switch,
following the circuitry diagram at far right. Then close the box and test
the laser.

STEP 6 Line up the laser box with the receiver box. Use the variable
resistor to adjust the photocell’s sensitivity so it can detect motion during
daylight hours. When correctly tuned, the receiver box will not make
sound when the laser is shining on it.

STEP 7 Attach Velcro to both project boxes. Mount the laser on the wall
at about waist height beside the door you want protected. Plug in the AC
adapter.

STEP 8 If you want to protect multiple doors and windows, use

mounting putty to attach tiny mirrors to the wall at angles that bounce the
laser’s beam around the room. You may have to play with the mirrors’
positions to get it right.

STEP 9 Once you’re done with the mirrors, mount the receiver box so
that the photocell lines up directly with the end of the laser beam. When
the beam is broken, the alarm will sound.

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087 SNOOPER-PROOF YOUR WALLET
Foil RFID thieves with—well, aluminum foil,
believe it or not.
MATERIALS
Wallet
Aluminum foil

Lurking inside your wallet’s credit cards are radio-frequency

identification chips (RFIDs), and lurking outside your wallet are goons
who scan that info and make off with your identity.

STEP 1 Tear off a piece of aluminum foil about 6 inches (15 cm) in
length.

STEP 2 Fold the aluminum foil to the size of a dollar bill.

STEP 3 Tuck the folded aluminum foil into your wallet’s billfold, place
your cards inside, and forget about those RFID scammers out there.

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088 INSTALL AN ELECTRICAL-OUTLET
WALL SAFE

Keep small valuables in a place no one would

ever look—and hope burglars don’t try to plug
anything in.
MATERIALS
Cut-in box
Pencil
Drywall saw
Residential-grade volt receptacle
Roofing nails and washers

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Faceplate
Screw
Screwdriver

STEP 1 Place the cut-in box on the wall where you want your safe and
trace around it with a pencil. Cut the hole with a drywall saw.

STEP 2 Slide the cut-in box into the hole. Fill it up with small valuables.

STEP 3 The volt receptacle has two holes, one at its top and one at its
bottom. Slide the roofing nails through the washers and then through
these holes.

STEP 4 Attach the volt receptacle to the cut-in box by sliding the nails
into the box’s top and bottom holes.

STEP 5 Screw the faceplate onto the receptacle.

089 CARRY A FILM-ROLL KEYCHAIN

STEP 1 Drill a small hole into the spool hub of a 35mm film roll.

STEP 2 Insert a key- ring loop through the roll’s hole.

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STEP 3 Thread your keys onto the loop and carry them like an old-
school film nut.

090 MAKE A MUSICAL STASH FOR YOUR

CASH
Annoy would-be thieves with a safe booby-
trapped with bad music.
MATERIALS
Musical greeting card
Craft knife
Double-sided tape
Box

STEP 1 Remove the noisemaker from a musical greeting card by

opening the card and tearing off the paper over the noisemaker. Then cut
out the speaker and circuit.

STEP 2 The speaker has a paper tab that, when unfolded, plays music.
Use double-sided tape to adhere this tab so it straddles your box’s hinge,

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and affix the speaker and circuit inside the box. When the box is opened
and the paper tab is unfolded, it will sound the alarm.

STEP 3 Fill your box with treasure and listen for thieves.

091 TURN YOUR HDTV INTO A MAGIC

WINDOW

Tired of looking at the yard? Connect your TV

to your laptop and gaze into space or deep sea
instead.
MATERIALS
Flatscreen TV with HDMI, DVI, VGA, or S-video port
Laptop with compatible port
Compatible cable
Converter box, if needed
Slideshow of your coolest photos

STEP 1 Assess your gear. Most flatscreens and laptops come with ports
that allow you to hook the two devices together. The trick is making sure
that both have the same connection type (HDMI, DVI, VGA, or S-video).
If they don’t, you’ll need to purchase a small converter box.

STEP 2 Connect the laptop and the flatscreen with a compatible cable.
Your computer screen should immediately appear on your TV. If it

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doesn’t, go to the TV and cycle through the input devices until what’s on
your computer screen shows up.

STEP 3 Create a slideshow on your laptop and press play. Your backyard
has never looked so good.

092 CRAFT A DIY DIGITAL PHOTO FRAME

Turn an old laptop into a digital frame that
automatically displays new shots.
MATERIALS
Used laptop
Flickr account
USB adapter or PMCIA wireless card, if needed
Screwdriver
Custom frame and mat
Mounting board
Pin
Tape
Hot-glue gun

STEP 1 Before disassembling the laptop, download the Slickr

screensaver from popsci.com/thebigbookofhacks and enter your Flickr
account information.

STEP 2 Make sure the laptop is Wi-Fi enabled. If it’s not, get a USB
adapter or a PCMCIA wireless card (find either online or in tech retail
stores).

STEP 3 Take apart enough of the laptop to get at the ribbon cable that
connects the LCD (usually found under the keyboard), and carefully
unplug it. Be careful when removing the plastic border from the screen—
there are several thin cables, and if you rip one, the LCD is useless.

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STEP 4 Measure the bare screen and order your frame, making sure it’s
deep enough to provide 1 inch (2.5 cm) of room behind the LCD so it can
breathe. Skip the glass.

STEP 5 Cut two self-adhesive mounting boards—one to strengthen the

frame’s mat and one on which to mount the laptop bottom. Poke
ventilation holes in the board that will go between the LCD and the
laptop bottom.

STEP 6 Assemble the pieces in a sandwich—frame, mat, mounting

board, LCD, mounting board, and laptop bottom—using tape. Hot-glue it
all together.

STEP 7 Reattach the LCD cable to the laptop and reassemble the
keyboard. Attach the second piece of board at an angle to the back of the
frame as a stand.

STEP 8 Give it to Mom. Start it up. Add shots to your Flickr account for
Mom to see.

www.circuitmix.com
093 GIVE AN OLD TV A RERUN

Resurrect an old TV as a monitor for an iPhone

or an external display for a PC.
MATERIALS
Audio/video transmitter kit
Soldering iron and solder
Twin-lead cable
Wire strippers
Old television
A/V RCA cables
Media player
Converter cable, if needed
12-volt battery supply

STEP 1 Assemble the A/V transmitter kit you’ve purchased according to

the instructions and circuitry diagram. This’ll take some time—and some
soldering.

STEP 2 Cut a length of the twin-lead cable and strip both ends of it.
Solder one end to the antenna connector’s pins on the underside of the
transmitter kit’s circuit board. Route the cable through the large hole in
the kit’s lid, and connect it to the TV’s antenna screw terminals.

STEP 3 Attach the A/V RCA cables to your media player, and connect
the other ends to the video- and audio-signal inputs on the transmitter kit.

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(For an iPod or iPhone, plug a converter cable into the dock connector
and run the converter’s video jack and one of the audio jacks into the
kit’s inputs.)

STEP 4 Connect the transmitter to a 12-volt battery, turn on your media

player, and tune your television to UHF channel 21.

STEP 5 If necessary, tweak the picture and sound quality by adjusting

the screws in the top of the A/V transmitter kit’s case.

STEP 6 Choose a video from your media player’s library, hit play, and
enjoy your “relic’s” new use.

WARNING
The transmitter kit is designed to work wirelessly, but such use
violates regulations, so we saved you the trouble. Plus, this
solution is less likely to cause harmful interference.

www.circuitmix.com
094 HACK THE PERFECT GAMING CHAIR
Turn your old favorite recliner into your new
favorite gaming chair.
MATERIALS
Old recliner
Plywood
Jigsaw
Sandpaper
Varnish
Heavy-duty swing-arm bracket
LCD monitor
Heavy-duty L-shaped bracket
Brackets with bolts and screws
Two speakers
Velcro, if needed
Superglue

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Mousepad
Lightweight aluminum sheeting
Box cutter
Four magnets

STEP 1 Use a jigsaw to cut a piece of plywood the width of your

recliner’s arms to serve as a desktop.

STEP 2 Saw a U-shaped contour into the edge of the desktop that will
face you, then sand and varnish it.

STEP 3 Attach the swing-arm bracket to one arm of your recliner using
bolts or screws. (If necessary, remove the chair’s stuffing or upholstery to
find a panel or frame to which you can attach the hardware.) Secure the
other end of the arm bracket to the desktop.

STEP 4 Attach the L-shaped bracket to the plywood desktop and mount
your LCD monitor to it with screws.

STEP 5 Secure two speakers to the back of the chair using brackets and
the appropriate screws or bolts. Again, dig through stuffing or upholstery
to find a sturdy spot for mounting if necessary. For small, lightweight
speakers, you could try adhesive Velcro.

STEP 6 Glue the mousepad to one side of the desktop.

STEP 7 With a box cutter, cut aluminum sheeting to the size of your
keyboard and glue it to the plywood.

STEP 8 Glue magnets to each corner of your keyboard’s underside to

hold the keyboard to the aluminum.

STEP 9 Hook your speakers, monitor, mouse, and keyboard into your
computer console and get gaming.

www.circuitmix.com
A WEARABLE LED TELEVISION
Electrical engineer David Forbes stunned everyone in the Detroit Metro
Airport when he debuted his wearable TV—and, no wonder, with 160
circuit boards and enough electronics to start a data center strapped to his
body. The vest features a sharp 160-by-120-pixel LED display, and it
plays video signal from his iPod, all off battery packs he carries in his
pockets. The charge lasts 90 minutes—just enough for three episodes of
The Simpsons.

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095 MAKE A TV OSCILLOSCOPE
STEP 1 Turn off and unplug a black-and-white TV.

STEP 2 Remove the TV’s back and find the deflector coil assembly (the
large coils looped around the glass tube). There are two pairs of wires on
either side of the coil. Follow them to the TV’s circuit board and desolder
one, then plug the TV back in and turn it on. If the screen shows a
horizontal line, you’ve cut a wire that enables the vertical coil. If the line
is vertical, you’ve cut a wire that enables the horizontal coil. Keep this in
mind.

STEP 3 Turn off and unplug the TV. Desolder the coil’s remaining three
wires, then resolder them so that the two that once plugged into the
horizontal coil’s input on the circuit board now go to the vertical coil’s
input.

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STEP 4 Peel back an audio cord’s end and strip its wires. Twist them
with the wires that went to the vertical coil.

STEP 5 Replace the TV’s back and plug the audio cord into a media
player. Watch your music take shape.

096 HACK A TV CONSOLE INTO A SEAT

STEP 1 Make sure the TV is off and unplugged, then open up the
console’s backing. Gingerly remove the electronics, speakers, and
television tube inside the TV. Be especially careful with the tube, which
could break.

STEP 2 On the front of the console, locate the edges of the TV screen.
Draw a line on both sides extending up over the lip and onto the
console’s top.

STEP 3 Using a jigsaw, cut down along the guides on the console’s top
until you reach the TV screen’s frame. Remove this part of the console’s

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top.

STEP 4 Gently remove the screen and its frame.

STEP 5 Return the console’s backing; secure with nails.

STEP 6 Measure and cut two plywood pieces to cover the sides of the
cavity. Stain or paint them so they match the rest of the console and nail
them in place.

STEP 7 Measure and cut two pieces of foam to serve as bottom and back
cushions for the seat. Cover them with material of your choosing. Glue
them down inside the console.

STEP 8 Take a seat. You’ve earned it.

097 INSTALL AN AQUARIUM IN AN OLD TV

STEP 1 Unplug the television, remove its back, and carefully pull out the
electronics and television tube. Be especially careful with the tube, which

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is fragile.

STEP 2 Measure the height, depth, and width of the hole in the back of
the TV. It should fit your run-of-the-mill 20-gallon (75-l) aquarium,
hopefully with a little space left over for the filter, pump, heater, and
power strip.

STEP 3 Place supports to hold the aquarium’s weight and boost it up so

it lines up behind the TV’s screen. Leave space above it for a lightbulb.

STEP 4 Use a circular saw to cut off the console’s top, then transform it
into a lid with two hinges and a handle.

STEP 5 Mount a fluorescent bulb to the underside of the lid with small
wood screws.

STEP 6 Place the tank inside the console, along with the power strip,
filter, heater, and pump. Run the power strip's wire out of the lid and
replace the console’s back.

STEP 7 Fill the aquarium slowly. Add fish and accessories.

STEP 8 Plug all the components into the power strip, plug the power
strip into the wall, and watch your fishies swim on the big screen.

www.circuitmix.com
098 BUILD A BOOB-TUBE BAR
STEP 1 Unplug the television and open up the console’s backing. Using
caution, take out the electronics, speakers, and glass tube inside the TV,
and remove the screen.

STEP 2 Strip out any supports you won’t be using on the inside,
including unnecessary screws and nails. Sand the interior to remove
splinters and old glue globs.

STEP 3 You need two shelves: one for booze that displays behind the TV
screen’s hole, and one for wine, which should be stored where the
speakers used to be. If possible, reserve any plywood bases to use as
shelves, or make new ones to fit inside your console and glue them in
with wood glue.

STEP 4 Remove the existing grating and grill cloth that cover the
speakers. Replace the grill cloth and remount the grating with hinges that
allows easy access to the wine.

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STEP 5 If you like, sand and paint or stain the outside.

STEP 6 Cut and insert two mirrors: one to fit over the shelf and one to fit
on the back wall behind the window. Replace the console's backing.

STEP 7 Stock the bar with your preferred liquor and wine, and host a
swanky party.

099 SET UP A DIY DRIVE-IN

Can’t find an outdoor movie theater? Set up

your own in your backyard.
Seeing a movie outdoors used to be pretty simple. Drive a bit, pay at the
entrance gate, find a parking space, and wait for the towering images to
flicker into view. But finding a drive-in isn’t easy these days. What to do
if you yearn to experience the cinema outside? Create it yourself. Here’s
how to put together a cheap, portable screening for a group of friends.

MATERIALS
White wall or sheet Four grommets
Two tent stakes and twine Battery-powered projector
Media player
Car cigarette lighter adapter FM receiver

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STEP 1 Use a white wall or a bedsheet as your backdrop. If using a
sheet, put a grommet in each corner and secure the top grommets to trees
or posts and the bottom grommets to the tent stakes using twine.

STEP 2 Hook a battery-powered, presentation-style projector up to your

media player (a computer or an iPad).

STEP 3 Plug the projector into your car’s cigarette lighter via an adapter
to keep it juiced during the feature film.

STEP 4 Connect your media player’s audio to an FM receiver. Set the

receiver to the frequency of your choice.

STEP 5 Have your friends park within the specified range of the receiver
and set their car radios to the same frequency as the receiver.

STEP 6 Hit play on your media player and be sure to pass the popcorn.

WARNING
Before starting this project, visit transition.fcc.gov/lpfm. This
page details the FCC’s regulations for low-power stations. Don’t
charge for attendance if you’re showing a DVD, and get all
proper permits if your DIY drive-in will be in a public place.

www.circuitmix.com
THE GRAFFITI LASER

Australian artist Chris Poole was driving around his native Perth when
some curbside garbage caught his eye. Unlike the average scavenger,
Poole wasn’t searching for futons: He had his eye on an old slide viewer
—a key component for his next project, a laser-based projector that could
display photos (albeit with a green hue) to the entire town.

Thanks to his penchant for collecting, Poole already had the basic
materials. To start, he rewired a tiny green laser—the kind used in a
pointer—so it could work with a long-running battery pack he had lying
around, which he had pulled out of an electric bicycle. Next he nailed an
electronics-mounting frame to a wooden board 3 feet (1 m) in length and
set the laser at one end, aimed down the frame. He snapped in a lens from
a used disposable camera at the other end and set a makeshift slide holder
and the scrapped slide viewer’s lens in between. The viewer enlarges the

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beam so it covers the slide, allowing him to project an 8-by-10-foot (2.5-
by-3-m) image of former PopSci editor-in-chief Mark Jannot from 100
feet (30 m) away.

100 HANG A LIQUID LAMP

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For cool mood lighting, combine off-the-shelf
parts—and just add mineral oil.
Forget the lava lamp: This modern light source trades in the hippie-dippie
vibe for an edgier, more industrial look. And you can make it yourself by
filling a glass globe with mineral oil and hooking it up to an air pump for
a bubbly effect.

MATERIALS
Clear ¼-inch (6.35-mm) PVC tubing
Craft knife
3-wire 18-awg SJOOW cord
Zip ties
3-prong male plug
Vapor-tight fixture with a ½-inch (1.25-cm) bulb
Nylon liquid-tight strain relief with flex fitting and threads that match the fixture
Wire strippers
Two 18-awg wire nuts
Rotary tool
Colored, clear 25-watt bulb
Mineral oil
Basic air pump

STEP 1 Measure and cut your clear tubing and electrical cord so that it
will reach the power supply from your lamp. Tether them together with
zip ties, then wire the male plug to the cord’s end.

STEP 2 Remove the vapor-tight fixture’s base from the cap.

STEP 3 Screw the strain relief into the threaded opening at the top of the
vapor-tight fixture’s cap.

STEP 4 Run the air tube and the electrical cord through the strain relief
and into the cap. Strip the ends of the electrical cord and connect them to
the vapor-tight fixture’s leads with the wire nuts.

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STEP 5 Use a rotary tool to drill a hole in the bottom of the vapor-tight
fixture’s base. Feed the clear tube through this hole, leaving about 8
inches (20 cm) below the base.

STEP 6 Screw the base back to the cap. As you do so, ground the fixture
by twisting the green ground lead around one of the screws that connects
the cap to the base.

STEP 7 Gently tighten the strain relief via its nut—don’t overdo it, or
you’ll constrict the tubing.

STEP 8 Screw the clear, colored bulb into the socket.

STEP 9 Fill the glass globe about one-third full of mineral oil and screw
the bulb to the base. Add the vapor-tight fixture’s aluminum grill.

STEP 10 Hang your lamp, attach the air tube to the pump, plug in the
pump and the light, and presto: bubble light!

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101 MOLD A RETRO LAMP BASE
Use one of those ubiquitous plastic bottles as a
mold for a neat lamp base.
MATERIALS
Empty plastic water bottle with a relatively flat top
Craft knife

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Drill
Petroleum jelly
Hacksaw
Hollow threaded rod
Hot-glue gun
Empty pill bottle
Plaster
Fine-grit sandpaper
Flat washer, lock washer, and nut
Lamp rewiring kit
Lampshade

STEP 1 Using a craft knife, cut off the bottom of the plastic bottle. Leave
a slight rim so the mold has a rounded edge.

STEP 2 Drill a ½-inch (1.25-cm) hole into the center of the water bottle’s
cap.

STEP 3 Coat the inside of the water bottle and its cap with a thin, even
film of petroleum jelly.

STEP 4 Use a hacksaw to cut a ½-inch (1.25-cm), hollow, threaded rod

to the height of your water bottle, minus about ¼ inch (6.35 mm).

STEP 5 With the cap screwed onto the bottle, thread the rod from the
bottom so that ¼ inch (6.35 mm) sticks out of the cap. Use a hot-glue gun
to seal the area on the outside of the bottle where the threads meet the
cap’s top.

STEP 6 Find a pill bottle that’s 75 percent smaller than your plastic
bottle. Remove its lid and drill a ½-inch (1.25-cm) hole into the center of
its bottom.

STEP 7 Coat the medicine bottle’s bottom and halfway up its sides with
petroleum jelly.

STEP 8 Holding both bottles with their bottoms facing each other, screw
the medicine bottle onto the rod so it fits inside the larger plastic bottle, a

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bit past flush. (This creates a slight recess in the bottom of your lamp
base.)

STEP 9 Place the entire apparatus upside down into a small glass so that
the water bottle’s cap points down inside the glass.

STEP 10 Mix then pour your plaster into the larger plastic bottle until it
fills up to the rim of the larger bottle’s bottom. Let set for a half hour or
until the plaster sets.

STEP 11 Unscrew the bottle cap and the medicine bottle from the hollow
threaded rod. Carefully peel the plastic bottle off the mold with a craft
knife.

STEP 12 Once you’ve removed the bottle, sand the bottom flat and clean
up any other rough surface areas.

STEP 13 Attach a flat washer, lock washer, and nut to the rod at the base
of the lamp. Don’t overtighten.

STEP 14 Drill a ¼-inch (6.35-mm) hole through the side of the base into
the slight recess in the lamp’s bottom. Thread the lamp cord through the
hole and into the rod.

STEP 15 Wire the socket and attach it to the rod at the top of the lamp
base. Top it off with your shade of choice.

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www.circuitmix.com
102 CREATE A MESMERIZING
PERSISTENCE-OF-VISION CLOCK

This clock uses optic trickery to make a moving

display look like a static image.
In typical POV projects, your eye briefly continues to see an image after
it disappears. But instead of showing one message, this model tells the
time with a continuously updated rotating display. Neat.

MATERIALS
Scrap wooden boards
Nails
Hammer
POV kit with LEDs in a color of your choosing
Soldering iron and solder
Two-pin right-angle connector
DC motor
Electrical wire
9-volt battery
10k-ohm potentiometer
100k-ohm resistor
470k-ohm resistor
10k-ohm resistor
10uF capacitor
LN914 diode
555 timer IC
Metal-oxide–semiconductor field-effect transistor (MOSFET)
Drill
On/off switch

STEP 1 Build the clock’s backboard out of scrap wood (or whatever
materials you have on hand).

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STEP 2 Assemble the POV kit according to its instructions, then
program its microcontroller with the software at
popsci.com/thebigbookofhacks. (The software is preprogrammed to start
at 12:00, but you can set it before programming the microcontroller.)
Solder the two-pin right-angle connector to the POV kit’s battery
terminals.

STEP 3 Build the motor-speed controller using the circuitry diagram at

right. Drill a hole slightly smaller than the motor’s spindle in the clock,
then mount the motor and controller to the clock’s back. Tap the wood
over the spindle so it sticks through the hole.

STEP 4 Mount another piece of scrap wood over the motor’s spindle to
act as a rotating arm. It should be large enough to accommodate your
POV kit and battery pack.

STEP 5 Attach the POV kit and battery pack to the rotating arm so that
their weight is evenly distributed.

STEP 6 Solder wires to the two-pin right-angle connector and then

solder them to the battery pack’s 9-volt battery snap. Turn on the motor’s
power supply, and adjust the motor-speed controller by turning the
potentiometer knob until the POV display is readable.

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103 TELL TIME WITH A DART CLOCK
Bring the bar home with this dead-simple DIY
timepiece.
MATERIALS
Dartboard
Battery-powered clock
Pencil
Drill
12 darts
Battery

STEP 1 Place the dartboard facedown and put the clock mechanism at its
center. Trace the outline of the mechanism.

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STEP 2 Mark the outline’s center and double-check that it’s the bull’s
eye. Drill a hole large enough to fit the chad that holds the clock’s hands
in place. Attach the clock to the board’s back.

STEP 3 Push four darts into the board to represent the numbers 12, 3, 6,
and 9.

STEP 4 Divide the area between each pair of darts into thirds. Mark
these divisions, then place a dart at each mark.

STEP 5 Assemble the hands on the dartboard’s front and screw on the
chad that secures them.

STEP 6 Turn the board over, pop the battery into the clock, and set the
hour and minute hands. Just don’t confuse the time for the score.

www.circuitmix.com
104 Make a Modern Mag Rack
Magazines sure can pile up. House ‘em in this
fiberglass rack.
MATERIALS
1-by-2-foot (30-by-60-cm) polystyrene sheet
Ruler
Grease pencil
Box cutter
¾-inch (1.9-cm) thick wood
Jigsaw
Saw blade
Drill
Two wood dowels that are 9 inches (23 cm) in length
Wood glue
Six screws

STEP 1 With a ruler and a grease pencil, draw the pattern at left onto the
polystyrene.

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STEP 2 Wearing a dust mask, use a rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to
cut out all the ½-inch (1.25-cm) sections.

STEP 3 Use a jigsaw to cut the wood into two strips that are 2 ½ inches
(6.35 cm) high and 1 foot (30 cm) long.

STEP 4 Create a groove ¾ inch (1.9 cm) deep in the top of the wood
pieces with a saw blade.

STEP 5 Drill two indentations into the inside of each of the wood pieces.
Slide the dowels into the holes so that they connect the wood pieces.
Secure with wood glue.

STEP 6 Slide the polystyrene into one of the wood pieces’ grooves.
Secure it with three evenly spaced screws along one of the wood pieces.

STEP 7 Fold the polystyrene into a U shape and slide it into the second
wood piece’s groove. Secure with screws again.

www.circuitmix.com
105 SEW AN EASY EBOOK READER CASE

Protect your slick tablet with a felt case tucked

inside an oversize book.
MATERIALS
Tablet
Book 1 inch (2.5 cm) larger than your tablet on all sides
Box cutter
Felt
Scissors
Ruler
Hot-glue gun
Cardboard
Pencil
3 feet (90 cm) of ½-inch (1.25-cm) braided elastic

STEP 1 Using a box cutter, cut out the pages from the book. Glue a strip
of felt to the inside of its spine.

STEP 2 Cut two pieces of cardboard to the size of the book’s covers.
Snip off the cardboard’s corners.

STEP 3 Measure and cut two pieces of felt so they’re 2 inches (5 cm)
larger than the cardboard on all sides. Cut 45-degree-angle slits into the
felt pieces’ corners.

STEP 4 Position one of the cardboard pieces in the center of a felt piece.
Fold the felt over the cardboard’s corners and hot-glue it in place. Repeat
with the other pieces.

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STEP 5 Trace the tablet’s outline on the back of one cardboard piece. On
both sides of each of the outline’s corners, use scissors to punch two
holes large enough to fit your elastic. Each hole should be 1 inch (2.5 cm)
from the outline’s corner.

STEP 6 Cut four 4-inch (10-cm) pieces of braided elastic. Feed one from
the back of the cardboard up through one of the holes and then back
through the facing hole. Repeat with the other three strips and insert your
tablet so that the strips go over the device’s corners, holding it in place. If
it fits, hot-glue the elastic pieces’ ends to the cardboard.

STEP 7 Use scissors to cut two holes into the book’s back cover near its
outside edge. Thread the remaining elastic through one hole from the
outside. Measure how long the elastic needs to be to encircle the book
when it’s closed with the tablet and cardboard tucked inside, then cut the
elastic and glue its ends to the inside back cover.

STEP 8 Line up the felt-wrapped cardboard pieces with the book covers
and hot-glue them together (the felt should be facing you, on the inside of
the book).

STEP 9 Let the glue dry, slide the tablet under the elastic, and revel in
being secretly high tech.

106 TURN A PRINTER INTO A HIGH-

VOLUME DOCUMENT SHREDDER

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Got mail? Shred it and other sensitive
documents with this hacked printer.
MATERIALS
Laser printer that prints 25 pages per minute
Screwdriver
Small Perfboard panel
Two LM3903 integrated circuits
Two 100uF, 6-volt electrolytic capacitors
Electrical wire
Wire strippers
Soldering iron and solder
6-volt, 60-mA DC motor
Drill
Glue
5-volt DC-power supply
Cheap, lightweight paper shredder (the kind that fits over a wastebasket)

STEP 1 Unplug and turn off your printer, then use a screwdriver to
remove its rear-access panel. Take out the fuser, which bonds toner to
paper and is a fire hazard.

STEP 2 Remove the printer’s top and side panels and gut it: Take out any
power supplies, computer processing units, motors, fans, laser units,
toner cartridges, and related circuit boards and wiring. Leave in any
solenoids (the long wire loops that control the printer trays) and the toner
cartridge, which will control the drive for the trays. Reattach the top and
side panels.

STEP 3 To make the controller, mount the two LM3903 integrated

circuits onto Perfboard. Attach each capacitor to one integrated circuit,
soldering the capacitors’ positive leads to the integrated circuits’ 2 pins,
and their negative ones to the 1 pins.

STEP 4 Mount the controller in the case, then solder each of the printer’s
original solenoids to one of the two integrated circuits: The solenoids’

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negative leads go to the 8 pins, and their positive leads should go to the 6
pins.

STEP 5 Replace the printer’s original motor with the 6-volt, 60-mA DC
motor. Mount it inside the printer with the original motor’s screws.

STEP 6 Take the 5-volt DC-power supply and glue it inside the case on a
side panel near the original power supply’s location. Then strip its output
cord and connect its positive and negative wires with the positive and
negative wires of the power leads on the DC motor and the shredder.
(The shredder’s wires should run through the back of the printer at this
point.)

STEP 7 Attach wires to the 5-volt DC-power supply’s positive and

negative leads, then connect them to the integrated circuits: The positive
leads go to the 5 pin and the negative leads go to the 4 pin. Secure all the
positive and negative connections with wire nuts.

STEP 8 Replace the side panel to cover the motor. (Cut a hole for
clearance if parts stick out, but cover those later with panels to avoid
injury.) Drill holes in the printer case’s back, then secure the shredder to
it with screws.

STEP 9 Load your trays with shreddables, and start making confetti out
of your private information.

WARNING
Listen up: This project isn’t for first-time tinkerers. If done
incorrectly, it could result in fire, shock, or other nasty situations.
Only attempt this project if you really know what you’re doing,
and even then, exercise extreme caution.

www.circuitmix.com
107 SORT MAIL WITH OLD CDS
STEP 1 Wearing safety goggles, use a blowtorch to bend a CD at a 90-
degree angle about ¾ inch (1.9 cm) from the edge.

STEP 2 Repeat on two other CDs, this time bending the discs 1 ¾ inches
(4.5 cm) away from the edge.

STEP 3 Glue the bent portions of the CDs to a base made of an un-
molested CD. Glue the tallest CD in between the two bent ones.

STEP 4 Use the two sections to sort your mail into important and not-so-
important stacks.

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108 IMPROVISE A POSTAGE SCALE
This magnetic device says just how many stamps
go on that envelope.
MATERIALS
Dowel Handsaw
Improvised dowel base
Six small ring magnets
Two pieces of card stock
Straw
Scissors
Glue
Three objects with an array of masses

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STEP 1 Use a handsaw to cut the dowel down to 6 inches (15 cm). Insert
it into an object that works as a base. Slip the magnets over it with like
poles facing each other.

STEP 2 Cut two card stock pieces. Make a hole in one that will fit your
straw. Cut four slits into the straw’s end, slide the straw through the hole,
and fold the flaps back.

STEP 3 Glue the second card stock piece directly on top of the cardboard
and straw. Slide the straw over the dowel.

STEP 4 Find objects measuring ½ ounce (15 g), 1 ounce (28 g), and 2
ounces (56 g). Put each on the card stock and mark where the straw hits
the dowel.

STEP 5 Place a letter on the scale. Once you know its weight, you can
determine its postage.

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109 TURN YOUR ROOMBA INTO A SENTRY

Why? To patrol your home while you’re away,

capturing pics you can access from any mobile
device.
The Roomba vacuum is an incredibly sophisticated robot, especially for a
gadget that costs less than $300. It scoots along at 1 foot (30 cm) per
second, while its sensors detect and navigate obstacles. Here we’ve
outfitted one with a webcam so you can keep tabs on your pad from afar.

MATERIALS
Wireless webcam
Video-streaming site account or dedicated website for video
Roomba
Strong Velcro
iPad or tablet, if needed
Mobile device for monitoring from afar

STEP 1 Get a wireless webcam that comes with its own free website for
real-time broadcasting. If you want to use a wireless webcam you already
own, set up an account for it on a video-streaming site.

STEP 2 Follow the camera’s instructions to configure video capture and

have it sent either to the website or to the streaming-video site.

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STEP 3 Attach the webcam to your Roomba with Velcro, send it on its
way, and head out the door. Any time that you want to check in on your
’bot’s findings, load the video feed on your smartphone or a computer.

STEP 4 For extra deterrence, you can attach an iPad or a tablet PC to the
Roomba, navigate to the streaming-video page, and display it on the
screen. This way, would-be intruders will see what you’re seeing in real
time—and know they’d better put that Wii system down and scram.

IT GETS EVEN BETTER

Any Roomba that’s rolled off the assembly line since October 24,
2005, has a serial command interface (SCI), which is essentially an
open platform for hackers to play with. This software allows your
preprogrammed instructions to control your Roomba, making it an
ideal ready-made base for any robotics project.

110 MAKE A ROBOTIC ARTISTE

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Let your vacuum make a mess for a change—
one that’s worthy of any 22nd-century gallery.
MATERIALS
Large canvas
Items to use as bumpers
Brushes and rollers
Glue or Velcro
Paint trays
Paint

STEP 1 Lay a large canvas on your floor and—to keep your Roomba
from painting areas you’d prefer left undecorated—arrange objects
around the periphery to keep the Roomba within bounds. Place your
charging station within that boundary.

STEP 2 Attach brushes and rollers with glue or Velcro to the front, back,
and sides of the Roomba. For real drips, try repurposing an old
chandelier, or cobbling together a paintbrush holder using a colander and
kitchen utensils.

STEP 3 Set paint trays near the charging station so it can refuel with
color after it recharges.

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111 REMOVE RUST WITH ELECTRICITY

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Blast away resistant rust with a bucketful of
electrodes.
MATERIALS
5-gallon (19-l) plastic bucket
Five 18-inch (45-cm) sections of ½-inch (1.25-cm) non-stainless-steel rebar
Drill
5 feet (1.5 m) pliable rust- resistant wire
Pliers
5 feet (1.5 m) 12-awg insulated copper wire
Wire strippers
Five wire nuts
Box of washing soda
Water
Small board or other nonconductive object
One alligator clip
Nail
Hammer
Small battery charger
Wire brush extension mounted on a rotary tool
Antirust spray

STEP 1 Space the five rebar sections evenly inside the bucket. Use a
drill with a ¼-inch (6.35-mm) bit to make two small holes in the bucket
near each piece of rebar: one that’s 2 inches (5 cm) down from the
bucket’s rim, and the second about 4 inches (10 cm) down from that.

STEP 2 To secure the rebar, thread rust-resistant wire through each hole,
around the rebar, and back out again. Twist the wire tight and snip off the
excess with pliers.

STEP 3 Once all rebar is in place, cut five 1-foot (30-cm) sections of
copper wire and strip the ends.

STEP 4 On the outside of the bucket, connect rebar sections together

with a piece of copper wire and cover with a wire nut. Leave the first and
last rebar pieces unconnected, with the fifth section of copper wire loose.

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STEP 5 Add 5 tablespoons of washing soda to the bucket and fill within
2 inches (5 cm) of the rim with clean water.

STEP 6 Secure a board (or any nonconductive object) across the top of
the bucket.

STEP 7 With the battery charger turned off, attach its positive end to the
rebar wire and nail its negative end to the nonconductive board. Then
attach several alligator clips to the negative end and let them hang so that
they almost touch or barely dip into the water.

STEP 8 Clean a small piece of your rusty object; attach this point to the
alligator clips so that the object hangs inside the bucket. It should not
touch the rebar.

STEP 9 Set the battery charger to a low setting (such as 6-volt 1.5 amp)
and turn it on.

STEP 10 Bubbles will form and rust will begin to flake off. Leave your
object in the water for anywhere from an hour to a couple of days. Then
remove it and use a wire brush (and antirust spray, if necessary) to
remove the remaining flaky rust.

WARNING
We’re serious about not using stainless-steel rebar for the
electrodes. Stainless steel’s chrome will leak during the
electrolysis and form nasty compounds in your electrolyte.

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112 CLEAN WITH A TOY-CAR BROOM
STEP 1 Use a drill and two screws to attach a very small board to the
underside of a remote-controlled car.

STEP 2 Attach a disposable sweeper head to the board with a drill and
two more screws. Make sure that the sweeper lies flat.

STEP 3 Use your remote to drive the dust away.

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113 RIG A SUPERPOWERED SCRUB BRUSH
When elbow grease just won’t cut it, add mighty
power-tool action.
MATERIALS
Scrubber brush Rotary tool Power saw with mini saw blade
Clamps Electrical tape

STEP 1 Cut a groove into the handle of a bathroom-style scrubber brush

with a rotary tool.

STEP 2 Insert the power saw’s mini saw blade into the groove and
secure it with clamps.

STEP 3 Wrap the brush handle with electrical tape so that the clamps are
secured in place.

STEP 4 Reattach the blade to the saw, turn it on, and polish your boat or
scrub your tub. Just don’t use it on your Benz.

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114 TRACK YOUR FOOD’S FRESHNESS
STEP 1 Remove the band from a basic digital watch.

STEP 2 When you open a container of perishable food, set the watch’s
timer.

STEP 3 Glue the watch face to the food item.

STEP 4 See instantly how many days have passed—no sniffing

necessary.

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115 MOD A CRUMB-COLLECTING
CUTTING BOARD
Catch crumbs before they hit the floor with this
cutting board mod.
MATERIALS
Router table
Cutting board
Sandpaper
Olive oil

STEP 1 Use a router table to cut ½-inch (1.25-cm) channels into the
board, ½ inch (1.25 cm) apart.

STEP 2 Sand the surface of the board, including the edges of and inside
the channels.

STEP 3 Wipe the board down with olive oil.

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STEP 4 Cut bread, contain crumbs.

116 HARVEST FRIDGE MAGNETS FROM

AN OLD HARD DRIVE

Get over that dead hard drive and pry out the
superstrong magnets hiding in it.

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MATERIALS
Computer with a dead hard drive
Torx screwdriver kit

STEP 1 Unplug your computer before you begin working.

STEP 2 Open up your case and locate the hard drive. There’ll be a power
cord attached to it; unplug that, and undo any screws holding the hard
drive in place. Pull the hard drive out of the case.

STEP 3 Using a star-shaped Torx screwdriver kit, start unscrewing the

many, many screws on the hard drive’s case and remove it. You’ll
probably need to remove a lot of stickers in the process, too.

STEP 4 Once you’re looking at the internal workings of the hard drive,
locate the actuator arm (it’s the part that protrudes over the disc-like
thing, which is called a platter). Behind it is the actuator (aka, one of two
big-deal rare-earth magnets that you’re after). Unscrew its fasteners with
a Torx screwdriver and pry it off.

STEP 5 Once you’ve got the first magnet off, you’ll see a second one
beneath it. Pry it out with a screwdriver, too, and use the magnets to
spruce up the old fridge.

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117 DO STUFF WITH BOTTLE CAPS
Next time you pop open a cold beer or soda,
pocket its cap and put it to use.

SOAP-SLIME KILLER
Twist a bottle cap into the bottom of a bar of soap—it prevents
sticky crud from building up on your sink or tub surface.

FRIDGE MAGNET
Glue a small circular magnet inside a bottle cap with the
nonmagnetic side facing the cap’s back, then smack it on the fridge
to hold up the number of that take-out joint you like so much.

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TINY CANDLES
Place a wick in the cap’s bottom, then pour hot wax to fill. You’ll be
well prepped next time the lights go out.

PLAYING PIECES
If you’ve got two 12-packs of different brands of beer, you’re more
than on your way to a good Friday night: You’ve got a full set of
checkers pieces. Now all you need is a checkered tablecloth and a
friend to play (and help drink).

MUD-ROOM MAT
Nail caps with their labels facing downward in a grid design onto a
piece of wood. Place the mat in front of your door, and never track
mud through the house again.

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118 AVOID BURNING YOUR MOUTH WITH
A SMART COASTER

Never burn your mouth on a hot drink again

with this ingenious coaster.
MATERIALS

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LM324N (low-power operational amplifier)
Thermistor
Electrical tape
Empty metal shoe polish container
Rotary tool
Red LED Hobby foam
Soldering iron and solder
1k-ohm resistor
10k-ohm resistor
10k-ohm potentiometer
Electrical wire
Wire strippers
3.7-volt battery
Mug

STEP 1 Clip off the unnecessary legs from the operational amplifier,
keeping pins 1, 2, 3, 4, and 11.

STEP 2 Attach the thermistor to the inside of the metal container’s lid
with some electrical tape. Be sure to insulate both of the thermistor leads
with tape.

STEP 3 Drill a hole into the side of the metal container for holding the
red LED. Insulate the bottom of the container with some scrap paper or
hobby foam.

STEP 4 Follow the circuitry diagram to make the circuit.

STEP 5 Fit the components inside the metal container, connect the 3.7-
volt battery, and close the metal lid.

STEP 6 Check your LED light by putting your finger on the coaster lid.
If it lights up, you’re good to start calibrating it. If not, check your
wiring.

STEP 7 Place your cup of fresh brew on the smart coaster and use the
10k-ohm potentiometer to adjust the thermistor’s sensitivity. Turn the
potentiometer until the LED glows and monitor the temperature of your
beverage.

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STEP 8 When the cup’s temp has fallen to your desired drinking level,
turn the potentiometer until the LED goes out. Your smart coaster is now
calibrated for this mug. Remember, if you change mugs, you will have to
recalibrate. Bottoms up.

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119 Put an Old Coffee Can to Good Use
Long after the caffeine rush has worn off, coffee
cans come in handy. Here’s some clever stuff to
do with your empties.

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120 DINNER TO GO IN A NITROUS-
INJECTED DINING TABLE
The world’s speediest piece of furniture, caught
on film.
Why would a man spend a year and $7,000 constructing a dining-room
table that cruises at 130 miles per hour (210 km/h) and shoots flames up
into the air as it speeds away? Sheer competitiveness, as it turns out. A
record for the world’s fastest furniture existed—92 miles per hour (148
km/h) on a sofa—and Perry Watkins wanted to beat it.

Watkins, a sales director in Wingrave, England, chose a dining table as

his furniture type because he thought it would be easiest to mount onto a
small, fast car. He started by buying an old two-seat Reliant Scimitar
Sabre V8 convertible, ripping off the fiberglass panels, stripping it down
to the chassis, and installing an off-the-shelf nitrous oxide injection
system for added power.

The resulting vehicle, dubbed Fast Food, smoked the record, clocking an
average speed of 113.8 miles per hour (180 km/h). But it was the
trimmings that really wowed onlookers. Watkins bolted dishware to the
table, as well as a variety of authentic-looking foods, including gravy
made of fiberglass resin and tea kettles that puff flames 10 feet (3 m) into
the air. The helmeted diner is actually a mannequin.

Watkins is the real man behind the wheel, with his head barely visible
underneath a plastic chicken on a platter. The chicken is quasi-functional:
Before kicking in, the nitrous system purges excess air through a tube

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leading to the fake fowl. “A 6-foot [1.8-m] plume of white smoke comes
out of the chicken’s backside,” Watkins says. He figures that’s probably a
world record, too.

RAISE THE ROOF

Where’s Watkins? He’s in the driver’s seat below the table, with his
head poking from under a plated chicken.

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121 IMPROVISE A SOUS-VIDE COOKER

Join the sous-vide craze with this el cheapo

home-built model.
The trick to delicious, evenly cooked meat is keeping your water bath at
a precise temperature by using a thermocoupler temperature sensor and a
proportional-integral-derivative (PID) controller. Once you master this,
play with other setups—a pot of water on an electric plate, an electric
kettle, or a lightbulb in an insulated chamber.

MATERIALS
Cheap slow cooker or rice cooker with an on/off switch
Water
Thermocoupler temperature sensor
PID controller with auto-tuning feature
Vacuum sealer or zip-top plastic bag and straw
Food

STEP 1 Fill your slow cooker with enough water to cover the food you’ll
be cooking.

STEP 2 Plug your slow cooker and thermocoupler into your PID
controller, and your PID into a power outlet. (If you’re feeling ambitious,
there are several online tutorials on making your own PID from scratch.

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The model we use here will run you between $35 and $70—far cheaper
than the $1,000 lab-grade immersion cooker on the market.)

STEP 3 Now it’s time to vacuum-pack your food. If you don’t have a
vacuum sealer, try freezing your marinated meat and putting it in a
sandwich bag, sticking the thermocoupler into your meat inside the bag,
and partially sealing it up. Then suck the remaining air out with a straw
and quickly seal it.

STEP 4 Set the desired temperature. The PID controller’s LED display
will show the thermocoupler’s reading. Use the buttons to set how hot
you need the cooker to get, based on the required temperature for your
meat.

STEP 5 Place your meat in the slow cooker. Cook until the
thermocoupler reading indicates that your meat has reached the desired
temperature.

122 BUILD A DIY SMOKER

This clay-pot cooking device gives food a wood-
smoked taste.
MATERIALS
Hot plate Large unglazed clay pot with base
Drill with masonry bit
Grill thermometer
Stainless steel saucepan without handle
Wood chips
Circular grill grate

STEP 1 Place the pot on blocks, then situate the hot plate inside the pot.
Run the hot plate’s wire through the drainage hole in the pot’s bottom.

STEP 2 Attach a masonry bit to a drill and make a hole in the pot’s base
large enough to fit a grill thermometer.

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STEP 3 Place a stainless-steel saucepan on top of the hot plate. (If you
have one with a handle, remove it.)

STEP 4 Place wood chips in the pan, and a circular grill grate in the pot
above the pan.

STEP 5 Throw some ribs on the grill grate and put the pot’s base on the
pot as a cover. Then place the pot in an open area, plug in your hot plate,
and start cooking.

123 SET UP AN UMBRELLA SOLAR

COOKER
What to do with an umbrella on a sunny day?
Fry eggs on it!
MATERIALS
Umbrella with ribs
Hacksaw
Plastic or acrylic mirror sheets, mirror film, or heavy-duty aluminum foil
Newspaper
Pencil
Tape or glue
Soldering iron and solder
Metal plant stand
Small barbecue grill rack

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Nonstick aluminum pot or frying pan

STEP 1 Cut the shaft off an umbrella with a hacksaw. Check that its ribs
are in good shape, as they’ll be supporting the reflective material that
cooks your food.

STEP 2 Choose your reflective material, either mirror sheets (which are
more durable but more costly and difficult to find) or aluminum foil,
which will need to be replaced once you close the umbrella.

STEP 3 Using a piece of newspaper, create a template by tracing one of

the triangular areas between the umbrella’s ribs. Use this to cut enough
reflective triangles to cover all of the umbrella’s inside canvas.

STEP 4 Attach the reflective material to the umbrella with tape (or glue,
if working with mirror sheets).

STEP 5 Solder the grill rack to a plant stand.

STEP 6 Place the umbrella on the ground in the sun and set the plant
stand in the center.

STEP 7 Place an aluminum pot on the grill stand and watch the sun heat
up your meal. Rotate the cooker at least twice an hour to keep it in the
sun’s strongest rays.

124 CONSTRUCT A TOILET-POWERED ZEN

FOUNTAIN

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Feel more relaxed with every flush of your
commode.
MATERIALS
Plastic planter
Drill
4 feet (1.2 m) of plastic tubing Waterproof silicone
Shallow plastic dish
Gravel
Decorative stones Hot-glue gun

STEP 1 Drill a hole near the bottom of the planter’s side. Insert a piece
of tube long enough to reach into the toilet tank, and seal around the tube
with waterproof silicone. Let dry for 24 hours and test for leakages. (This
tube will direct overflow water.)

STEP 2 Cover the planter’s bottom with gravel so that the overflow tube
is covered. Nestle a small plastic dish (into which the tiny waterfall will
flow) among the gravel pieces, being sure not to obscure the dish.

STEP 3 Stack and hot-glue decorative rocks to create elevation for your
tiny waterfall.

STEP 4 On this stack of stones, glue a second piece of tubing, which will
act as your intake tube. Glue more stones on top to conceal it (along with
any cool decorative stuff you want). Aim the tube toward the plastic dish.

STEP 5 Remove the cover from the basin of your toilet and connect your
intake tube to the tube that feeds the water to your toilet (that’d be the
one that’s connected to the float ball). You may need to prop up the toilet
basin cover to prevent crushing the plastic tubing.

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STEP 6 Direct the overflow tube back into the toilet basin. Each time
you flush, the water travels into your planter and overflows back into the
toilet, completing the loop.

125 DOUBLE YOUR SHOWERHEAD

ACTION
Why on earth should you do this? You know
why, you sly dog, you.
MATERIALS
½-inch (1.25-cm) copper fitting union
5-foot (1.5-m) piece of ½-inch (1.25-cm) copper pipe
Copper-pipe cutter
½-inch (1.25-cm) copper T
Four ½-inch (1.25-cm) 90-degree copper elbows
½-inch (1.25-cm) 45-degree copper elbow
Blowtorch and solder
Two ½-inch (1.25-cm) male adapters
Two new showerheads
Wrench
Plumber’s tape

STEP 1 Unscrew your existing showerhead. Screw one half of the ½-

inch (1.25-cm) fitting union to the flange.

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STEP 2 Using a copper-pipe cutter, cut the pipe into three pieces: one
piece 2 ½ feet (75 cm) long, and two 1 ¼ feet (38 cm), from which the
new showerheads will extend.

STEP 3 Attach the two equal-length pieces of pipe with the copper T to
create the T-shaped framework.

STEP 4 Attach this T-shaped framework to the long piece of pipe with a
90-degree elbow and then a 45-degree elbow. Solder all joints.

STEP 5 To the end of the contraption that will connect to the wall, attach
a 90-degree elbow and then the remaining half of the fitting union. Solder
in place.

STEP 6 To the ends of the T-shaped framework, attach 90-degree copper

elbows to point downward. Then attach the male adapters, then the
showerheads. Solder in place.

STEP 7 Screw the two halves of the fitting union together to install the
double showerhead. Use plumber’s tape and a wrench to create a tight
seal.

STEP 8 Scrub-a-dub.

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126 CRAFT A TOILET-PAPER DISPENSER
STEP 1 Pull down the corners of a clotheshanger.

STEP 2 Bend one side inward to create a space for the toilet-paper roll.
Straighten the bottom of the hanger to make a rectangular shape.

STEP 3 Add toilet paper and hang near the can.

127 HANG A MAGNETIC STUD FINDER

STEP 1 Tie a string to a strong magnet.

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STEP 2 Dangle it against a wall, and mark where it clings to nails and
screws embedded in the structure.

STEP 3 Look for a pattern in your marks—that’s where the studs are,
and where you should hang that trippy Magic Eye stereogram you found
in your garage.

128 TURN YOUR HARD DRIVE INTO A

TOOL GRINDER

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STEP 1 Peel off all the stickers on your hard drive and pry away its top
cover, using a Torx screwdriver to remove any screws.

STEP 2 Strip out the fixings inside the hard drive with the Torx
screwdriver. Remove the actuator (the magnets), the actuator arm, and
the circuit board. Toss these or save them for later projects.

STEP 3 Remove the platter from the spindle and trace it onto the
sandpaper. Then cut out the shape with a craft knife.

STEP 4 Glue the sandpaper to the platter and reinstall it onto the drive
with the aluminum spindle’s bottom under the platter and the spindle’s
round top over the sandpaper.

STEP 5 Attach a molex connector, plug the molex connector into a

power supply, and grind away.

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129 CAPTURE SCREWS WITH A
MAGNETIC WRISTBAND
STEP 1 Scrounge up some magnets from your home. You’ll need one on
the large side and several much smaller round magnets.

STEP 2 Use superglue to attach the smaller magnets to the larger

magnet. You’ll want to space them pretty evenly. Let dry.

STEP 3 Make a slit in the top of a terry-cloth wristband that’s big

enough to slide your larger magnet inside.

STEP 4 Slide the larger magnet inside the slit and sew it shut. When
you’re doing basic woodworking stuff, slip this wristband onto your arm
and capture stray metal fasteners with its magnet.

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130 RIG THE POOR MAN’S LASER LEVEL
STEP 1 Use a rubber band to secure a suction cup to a basic carpenter’s
level.

STEP 2 Use tape to mount a laser pointer onto the carpenter’s level at a
right angle.

STEP 3 Suction-cup the apparatus to a wall at the height that you want to
hang your object, and turn on the laser pen.

STEP 4 Tilt the laser to make a level line and hang your Picasso.

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131 KIT OUT AN INSTANT-CHARGE
SCREWDRIVER

Resuscitate a dead electric screwdriver with

quick-charging supercapacitors.
MATERIALS
3.6-volt cordless rechargeable screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Soldering iron and solder
Four supercapacitors, 10F and 2.5-volt
Mini B USB cable
Breakout board for mini USB
Electrical wire

It’s the do-it-yourselfer’s version of Murphy’s Law: Every time you need
to sink some tough screws, the battery in your cordless screwdriver is

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dead. So forget those plodding batteries and shorten recharge time to a
minute and a half.

STEP 1 Use a standard Phillips head screwdriver to open up the

rechargeable screwdriver and remove the battery.

STEP 2 Desolder the barrel-shaped charge connector and the battery

connection clip from the screwdriver’s circuit board. Solder a red wire
from the breakout board’s VCC conductor to the positive pad on the
circuit board, and a black wire between the ground connections of the
boards.

STEP 3 Connect two capacitors in series with the positive lead of one
soldered to the negative lead of the other. Repeat with another pair. Then
join the two sets together in parallel (positive to positive, negative to
negative).

STEP 4 Solder the positive leads from the power pack you just made to
the red wires from the switch and the circuit board. Solder the pack’s
negative leads to the black wires.

STEP 5 Widen the charge port on the screwdriver case large enough to
access a mini B USB cable. Fasten the breakout board to the inside of the
screwdriver. Line up the port with the opening, and reassemble the case.

STEP 6 Plug the screwdriver into a USB port on your computer. The red
LED should glow—when it goes out, in about 90 seconds, the
screwdriver is charged.

STEP 7 Enjoy your new quick-charge screwdriver.

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132 MAKE A MINI SCREWDRIVER
STEP 1 Drill a hole in the top of a glue-stick cap that’s slightly smaller
than the screwdriver bit.

STEP 2 Wiggle a drill bit through the hole in the cap.

STEP 3 Put a pencil eraser on the back of the drill bit to secure it in
place.

STEP 4 Screw away.

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133 REMOVE A STRIPPED SCREW WITH A
RUBBER BAND
Stripped screws happen. Luckily, you’ve got that
rubber-band ball to use up.
STEP 1 Place a wide rubber band across the head of the screw you want
to remove.

STEP 2 Grab a screwdriver that’s a size bigger than what the screw is
made for.

STEP 3 Through the rubber band, apply hard, slow force to remove the
stripped screw.

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134 MAKE A RUBIK’S CUBE–INSPIRED
CHEST OF DRAWERS

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Everyone’s favorite gaming cube gets
transformed into clever furniture.
Each drawer swivels to mimic the cube’s trademark maneuverability,
while the colored patches are magnetized so you can peel them off and
arrange them how you like. Cheating never felt so good.

MATERIALS
Table saw
Straightedge
Three sheets of ½-inch (1.25-cm) plywood
Three sheets of ¼-inch (6.35-mm) plywood
Three pairs of 22-inch (56-cm) full-extension drawer slides with runners
About 60 ½-inch (1.25-cm) flat head screws
Wood glue
Brad nails
Brad nailer
Orbital sander
Primer
White paint
Router with a V-shaped bit
54 ¼-by-1 ¾-inch (0.635-by-3-cm) dowels
Cordless drill with ⅜ inch Forstner bit
Bench saw
45 ⅜ inch (3.75-mm) steel washers
Epoxy glue
36 ⅜-inch (3.75-mm) rare earth magnets
Paint in five colors and black
Two 1-foot (30-cm) lazy Susan bearings

STEP 1 Using a table saw and a straightedge, cut pieces of the ½-inch
(1.25-cm) plywood to make the cases (the boxes that hold the drawers).
Start by measuring and cutting six 2-by-2-foot (60-by-60-cm) sheets for

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the tops and bottoms of the cases. Then cut six 24-by-7-inch (60-by-18-
cm) sheets for the sides of the cases.

STEP 2 Still working with the ½-inch (1.25-cm) plywood, cut three 24-
by-7 ¾-inch (60-by-19.75-cm) sections for the drawer fronts. Cut six 21-
by-6-inch (54-by-15-cm) sections for the drawer sides.

STEP 3 Begin working with the ¼-inch (6.35-mm) plywood. First,

measure and cut three 22-by-22-inch (56-by-56-cm) pieces for the drawer
bottoms. Then, to make the backs of the drawers, cut three 22-by-6-inch
(55-by-15-cm) pieces. For the backs of the cases, cut three 24-by-7 ¾-
inch (60-by-19.75-cm) pieces.

STEP 4 Cut 45 6½-by-6½-inch (16.5-by-16.5-cm) “stickers” from the ¼-

inch (6.35-mm) plywood.

STEP 5 Attach one of the drawer slides to each of the plywood case side
panels with screws, leaving ¼ inch (6.35 mm) at the front edges, and
making sure that the slides will be parallel to each other when the
drawers are constructed.

STEP 6 Assemble the three cases with wood glue and brad nails,
attaching top and bottom panels to side panels with the drawer slides on
the inside. Let dry, then sand.

STEP 7 Prime, sand, and paint the drawers white.

STEP 8 Assemble the three drawers to fit inside these cases using the
bottom, back, and side panels you cut for the drawers. Let dry and sand.

STEP 9 Attach the drawer runners to the outside of the drawers’ side
panels and check that they fit smoothly with the slides inside the cases.

STEP 10 Attach the faces of the drawers. Let dry and sand.

STEP 11 Use a router with a V-shaped bit and cut grooves in all the
exposed faces, creating the look of cubes.

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STEP 12 Drill two dowel-sized holes about three-fourths of the way
through opposite corners of each of the 45 square “stickers.” Using a
Forstner bit, drill a shallow hole in the center of each sticker for the
washer.

STEP 13 To cut the dowels in half, tape them to a piece of scrap

plywood and run them through the bench saw.

STEP 14 Glue the half-dowels into the holes in the stickers, then epoxy
the washers into the shallow holes in each sticker’s center.

STEP 15 Prime, sand, and paint the stickers using a separate color for
each set of nine.

STEP 16 Drill holes in all the exposed faces of the chest for the dowels
and washers of the stickers.

STEP 17 Glue the rare-earth magnets into the center holes of the faces
with epoxy. These should line up perfectly with the washers in the
stickers, with enough clearance for the dowels on either side.

STEP 18 Rout out a thin layer of plywood from the bottom of the top
case, the top and bottom of the center case, and the top of the bottom case
and screw the lazy Susan bearings into them. Epoxy the bearings into
place.

STEP 19 Attach the stickers to the sides and top, sliding the dowels into
the holes.

STEP 20 Scramble the stickers or make it look solved, and move them
around whenever the whimsy strikes you.

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135 SAND TINY TRIM WITH A RAZOR
STEP 1 Remove the blade from a safety razor.

STEP 2 Cut sandpaper to fit the space where the blade used to be.

STEP 3 Tuck the sandpaper into the blade’s space and sand small objects
and irregular concave edges.

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136 MAKE DUCT TAPE DO DOUBLE DUTY
Ah, duct tape. What can you do with it? A better
question may be, what can’t you do with it?

ROPE IN A PINCH
Cut the length you need, then roll one edge inward for a pretty
sturdy rope.

IMPROMPTU HINGE
Lay a small rectangle of duct tape across the gap between a
cabinet’s lightweight door and its frame, then close the door to fold
the tape into a working hinge.

VACUUM HOSE EXTENDER

Sometimes the hose on your vacuum cleaner isn’t long enough to
get to out-of-reach places—like, say, your ceiling. Just add a length
of PVC pipe to the hose and seal the seam with the good stuff.

TEMPORARY ROOF SHINGLE

Roof falling apart? Patch it with an improvised shingle of folded
duct tape.

EMERGENCY SUNGLASSES
Fend off glare by folding a length of duct tape in half, cutting a slit
in the center, and tying it around your head.

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137 CREATE A LIFE-SIZE CARD-BOARD
CUTOUT
STEP 1 Using a digital camera that shoots at least seven megapixels,
snap a photo of a hilarious person.

STEP 2 Use photo-editing software to delete the background, turn any

negative spaces gray or beige, and enlarge the image to life size.

STEP 3 Print the image out in sections and tape it together, or have a
copy shop print out the image full size.

STEP 4 Trim the figure out of its background, leaving about a 2-inch (5-
cm) border. Don’t cut out the area between the figure’s feet—a wide,
solid bottom will help support it.

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STEP 5 Attach cardboard pieces with spray adhesive to make a single
piece that’s big enough to fit your image.

STEP 6 Mount the image to the cardboard with the spray adhesive, and
trim the cutout with a craft knife.

STEP 7 Cut out two cardboard supports and make slits in the bottom of
your cutout. Slide the supports in to make it stand.

138 LOUNGE IN A CARDBOARD

HAMMOCK
STEP 1 Cut cardboard into six strips 4 feet (1.2 m) long and about 1 foot
(30 cm) wide, and two pieces 3 feet (90 cm) long and about 2 feet (60
cm) wide.

STEP 2 If you’re recycling cardboard, patch holes and reinforce tears

and weak spots with duct tape.

STEP 3 Duct-tape three of the six long strips together so their sides
touch. Repeat with the other three, then tape the two sections together

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end to end.

STEP 4 Tape your remaining two pieces of cardboard over the center
seam on the top and bottom to reinforce it. Use a lot of tape over each
seam.

STEP 5 Make eight holes in the hammock, one at each corner and two
near the center along each long edge.

STEP 6 Thread a piece of rope a little longer than the hammock through
the holes along one side. Repeat on the other side.

STEP 7 Cut a broom handle in half and thread it through the two holes in
the corners of the hammock’s short sides. Reinforce with duct tape.

STEP 8 Drill two eyebolts at equal height into two nearby trees. Tie the
hammock’s rope to the eyebolts. Take it down if there’s a chance of rain.

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139 CHAT ON A CARDBOARD TELEPHONE
STEP 1 Take an old phone apart, removing the casing around the
electronics.

STEP 2 Cut out pieces of cardboard to fit around the electronics in your
phone’s handset. This will vary according to your phone—trace its case
as a template.

STEP 3 Using a craft knife, cut out spaces in the cardboard handset
through which you’ll be able to access the keypad. Punch holes in the
cardboard that will cover the speaker and the microphone.

STEP 4 Measure your cardboard handset and create a cardboard base

that the handset can rest on. It should include a protruding piece of
cardboard where the phone's depressor will hit, hanging up the phone.

STEP 5 Tape the electronics inside the cardboard handset and base,
lining up all components with the various openings in the cardboard.
Make a small opening in the base’s bottom for the cord.

STEP 6 Dial someone up.

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140 HANG UP CARDBOARD BLINDS
STEP 1 Measure your window’s height and width, then add about 20
inches (50 cm) to the height. Cut your cardboard to these dimensions,
with its corrugations running horizontally.

STEP 2 Measure every 5 inches (12 cm) along the cardboard and mark
these lines with a ruler. Using the back of a box cutter, score along the
marks.

STEP 3 Flip the cardboard over and mark halfway between the scored
lines. Score these marks in the opposite direction.

STEP 4 Accordion-fold the cardboard, firmly creasing every other line in

the opposite direction.

STEP 5 With the cardboard all folded up, drill a hole through each end of
the top all the way through to the bottom.

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STEP 6 Thread a needle with twine and pull it through the holes on one
side; knot it at the top. Repeat on the other side.

STEP 7 Drill two small eyebolts into the top of the window frame so that
they line up with the string. Hang the blinds.

STEP 8 Fasten clothespins to the bottom of the twine lengths. When you
want more light, push up the clothespins. For darkness, slide them down
and let the cardboard unfold.

141 MAN’S BEST FRIEND GETS A HIGH-

TECH HOME
This dream doghouse comes complete with a
solar heating system, LED lights, and a Wi-Fi

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security camera.
Former PopSci photographer John Carnett decided to make this pooch
palace for Pearl, his labradoodle, after she dutifully watched him build a
new house for three years. A standard model just wouldn’t do, though, so
he went a little overboard. After creating the design with computer-aided
design (CAD) software, he added a solar hot-water radiant-heating
system and made a green roof that retains rainwater, creates oxygen, and
improves insulation. Then he decked it out with a few other touches,
including some colored LED lights to brighten things up and a Web-
enabled wireless video camera that lets him keep an eye on Pearl from
his computer or phone. That’s plenty of features for her, but the doghouse
has one extra benefit for Carnett himself: The battery that powers it also
powers all the low-voltage exterior lights on his property.

Carnett made a frame of 2-by-4-foot (60-by-120-cm) boards and walls

made of insulated wood panels. The south-facing wall has a solar panel,
which charges the gel battery mounted inside the house. A solar charge
controller, switches, and other parts are inside a waterproof panel
mounted on the exterior for easy adjustment. When the photovoltaic
panels are exposed to sunlight, a pump circulates glycol fluid through
evacuated tubes to a series of copper pipes underneath the floor. The
pipes heat a concrete backing board below them, which in turn disperses
heat through the hardwood floor into the house.

The porch ceiling contains a waterproof 12-volt LED light, and the two
interior lights go on automatically when it gets dark outside. That way,
Pearl always has a welcoming light on when she comes home at night.

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142 MAKE AN AUTOMATIC PET FEEDER
Not around to feed your pet? Automate that
action and fret about Fido no more.
MATERIALS
Screwdriver
Battery-operated clock
Metal dog-food bowl
Glue
Small, circular metal dish
Tape
Incredibly thin plywood
Saw
Drill
Hammer
Two nails

STEP 1 Using a screwdriver, remove the motor and the second and hour
hands from an old clock.

STEP 2 Glue a small metal dish to the center of your pet’s metal food
bowl to form a central compartment. The dish should be big enough to
hold the motor, and should be level with the bowl’s top.

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STEP 3 Tape the motor inside the central compartment and mount the
hour hand to the motor.

STEP 4 Using a saw, cut four plywood dividers that will radiate out from
the central compartment. Insert them.

STEP 5 Cut a piece of very thin plywood to fit over the bowl and cut
away a quarter of it. Drill a hole into the top to accommodate the bit that
extrudes from the motor.

STEP 6 Hammer two nails in the lid so that the hour hand is between
them and, when it rotates, the lid goes with it. Trim so they don’t get
caught on the motor. Put the lid on.

STEP 7 Make a plywood cap that’s large enough to cover the second
hand. Tape the second hand to the cap upside down and mount it to the
lid. It should rotate freely.

STEP 8 Fill the bowl with food. Every three hours, the lid will rotate and
your pet can get more of the good stuff.

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143 BUILD A CAT DOOR
Have the mewing beasts let themselves out for a
change with this DIY cat hatch.
MATERIALS
Pencil
Jigsaw Continuous hinge
Tin shears Thin acrylic
Drill
¼-inch (6.35-mm) bolts and nuts
Metal plate
Magnet

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STEP 1 Sketch the opening on your door so it’s 9½ inches (24 cm) wide
by 8 inches (20 cm) high.

STEP 2 Cut the hole out with a jigsaw. (If your door is hollow, you’ll
need to secure pieces of thin wood to the top, bottom, and sides of the
hole with glue and brads.)

STEP 3 Measure a piece of continuous hinge to the width of your hole

and cut it with tin shears.

STEP 4 Measure and cut a piece of lightweight acrylic to fit over the
opening. Drill holes into the acrylic that line up with the holes in the
hinge, then attach the hinge with ¼-inch (6.35-mm) bolts and nuts.

STEP 5 Mount the hinge right above the hole on the inside, making sure
that it swings freely in both directions.

STEP 6 To keep the door from swinging, mount a metal plate to the
hole’s bottom ledge. Drill a hole into the acrylic and insert a magnet.

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144 PUT TOGETHER A HOMEMADE WIND
MILL

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Kiss those high energy bills goodbye with a
backyard wind turbine.
MATERIALS
Two precut round steel plates 2½ inches (6.35-cm) in diameter
Hole saw
1-inch (2.5-cm) steel tubing
Arc welder
1-inch- (2.5-cm-) thick plywood
Jigsaw
Drill
Screws and wingnuts
4-inch (10-cm) PVC pipe
Aluminum sheeting
Epoxy
¼-inch (6.35-mm) metal rods
Sprockets and chain
Salvaged alternator
Lazy Susan bearing
3-inch (7.5-cm) steel tubing
Charge controller
Four car batteries
DC/AC inverter
Power cord

STEP 1 Using a hole saw, cut holes in the center of the steel plates that
fit the 1-inch (2.5-cm) steel tubing.

STEP 2 Cut the steel tubing to 2 feet (60 cm) in length. Use an arc
welder to connect it to the small plates, making an axle.

STEP 3 Using a jigsaw, cut the 1-inch- (2.5-cm-) thick plywood into two
discs 2 feet (60 cm) in diameter. Drill a hole into their centers for the
steel tubing. Slide the wood onto the axle, screwing the discs onto the
steel plates.

STEP 4 Measure and cut sections of PVC pipe 2 feet (60 cm) in length;
cut them into half-pipes.

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STEP 5 Use a jigsaw to cut the aluminum sheeting into three sections 2
feet (60 cm) long and 1 foot (30 cm) wide.

STEP 6 Drill three evenly spaced holes into one edge of each PVC half-
pipe and attach the aluminum sheeting with epoxy to form a J shape.
Reinforce the J shapes with small screws.

STEP 7 Use epoxy to secure each J shape to the edges of the discs, with
the flat face of the sheeting facing the axis.

STEP 8 Drill three holes in the wood discs so you can slide in metal rods
at the center point of the half-pipes.

STEP 9 Weld a sprocket around the axle’s end and a second sprocket to
your alternator’s spindle. Hook the two up with the chain.

STEP 10 Fit and weld the lazy Susan bearing to the top of the 3-inch
(7.5-cm) steel tubing. Mount the entire assembly onto the lazy Susan
bearing so it will swivel when the wind blows.

STEP 11 Hook your alternator to a charge controller, then connect its

positive and negative lines to the first car battery. Connect all four car
batteries in a row.

STEP 12 Hook the last car battery to DC/AC inverter, and then power
your home’s circuit box. Check with your local power-supply company
for specifics, if needed.

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145 HOOK UP A SOLAR CHARGER
Keep your gadgets powered even when you’re
off the grid.
MATERIALS
Plywood
Jigsaw
Drill
Nails
Hammer
Two 1-inch (2.5 cm) wood slats
5-watt, 12-volt solar panel
Hinge
Soldering iron and solder
¼-inch (6.35-mm) plastic mono plug
Cigarette-lighter Y adapter
12-volt 12AH rechargeable battery
Solar DC charger controller
4 feet (1.2 m) of 18-gauge wire
15-amp DC panel meter
Two female terminal disconnects

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STEP 1 Check online to discover your home’s latitude. This is the angle
at which you’ll mount your solar panel.

STEP 2 Cut six pieces of plywood for the box. The lid should be slightly
larger than the solar panel. Trim the top edges of the side, front, and back
pieces to the appropriate angle. Cut the bottom to fit.

STEP 3 Drill a hole in each side panel for airflow: one in the back panel
for the controller and battery cords, and one in the lid for the solar panel’s
cord. Then nail the wooden slats to the lid and mount the solar panel to it.
Assemble the box with a hinge for the lid.

STEP 4 Snip off the cigarette-lighter plug and solder the ¼-inch (6.35-
mm) mono plug onto the Y adapter. Insert the mono plug into the
controller’s 12-volt output.

STEP 5 Connect all four power leads from the battery and the solar panel
to the controller’s input terminals. Hook up the 15-amp DC panel meter
to the controller’s input terminal for the panel.

STEP 6 Test all connections with the meter. Connect the red wire with a
female-terminal disconnect to the battery’s positive terminal, and connect
the black wire to the negative terminal.

STEP 7 Place the station in the sun with the solar panel pointed south
(north if you’re in the southern hemisphere). Plug something in!

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146 MAKE A GEODESIC DOME OUT OF
PVC PIPE

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It’s a classic, and with good reason: It looks rad
and is child’s play to make.
Buckminster Fuller christened this structure in the 1940s, and it’s been an
icon ever since. You too can build its interlocking system of circles and
triangles and know the glee of lightweight, modular housing.

MATERIALS
65 2-foot (60-cm) pieces of PVC pipe
Ten four-way pipe connectors
Six five-way pipe connectors
Ten six-way pipe connectors
Drill
130 3-inch (7.5-cm) bolt-and- nut sets
260 washers to fit the bolts
Four T-posts
Parachute
Ten bungee cords

STEP 1 Use ten lengths of pipe and the ten four-way connectors to hook
together the circular base.

STEP 2 Fit two lengths of pipe into each four-way connector, pointing
up. This should form triangles.

STEP 3 Hook five five-way and five six-way connectors, alternating the
two types, to the tops of these triangles all around the first row of the
dome.

STEP 4 Fit ten more lengths of PVC between these connectors,

horizontally, for the second row of the dome.

STEP 5 Make another row of triangles by fitting 10 lengths of pipe into

the upward-pointing openings of these connectors.

STEP 6 Connect five six-way connectors to the tops of these triangles.

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STEP 7 Place 10 lengths of pipe horizontally between these connectors.

STEP 8 Position the last five lengths of pipe into these connectors so that
they’re pointing upward toward the top of the dome. Hook them into the
last five-way connector.

STEP 9 If you like, remove one pipe near the bottom of the dome to
create a doorway.

STEP 10 Drill holes through each connector and its pipes and secure
these with washers, nuts, and bolts (with the bolts on the outside of the
dome) to reinforce the frame. If you’d like to be able to take your dome
down for transport, skip this step.

STEP 11 Drive four T-posts into the ground inside the dome so that they
catch the bottom layer of pipe. This will add stability to the structure.

STEP 12 Cover the structure with a salvaged parachute or other piece of

fabric, tying it to each of the bottom row’s four-way connectors with
bungee cords.

STEP 13 Decorate your geo dome and veg out.

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147 Reuse an Old Garden Hose
Garden hoses don’t die easily, but when they do
wear out, there’s no need to throw out all of that
rubber tubing.

148 MAKE THE LAZY MAN’S MOWER

Mowing the lawn used to suck. Now it kind of

rules.
Grass—it’d be great, if you didn’t have to cut it. Luckily, you can rig this
simple self-propelled lawnmower so it goes in a circle all on its own,
doing most of the work for you while you enjoy a brewski on the porch.

MATERIALS
Lawnmower
Two rebar posts

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Drill
Wooden block
2x4
Nails
Hammer
Twine
6-foot (1.8-m) wooden dowel
Clamps

STEP 1 Locate a good spot in your lawn with equal clearance on all
sides so that the mower can go in a circle without running into any
permanent fixtures.

STEP 2 Drill two holes into a large wooden block, and pound the rebar
into the ground through those holes. Cap it off by nailing a 2x4 on top of
the wooden block.

STEP 3 Measure and cut enough twine to reach the outer perimeter of
the area you wish to mow, leaving a bit of excess.

STEP 4 Knot one end of the twine to one of the rebar posts in the
ground.

STEP 5 Knot the other end to the mower and position it as far away from
the posts as possible. The mower will work its way inward as it moves in
circles, winding the twine around the posts as it goes.

STEP 6 Place a clamp on the mower’s gas lever to keep it moving.

Measure and cut a 6-foot (1.8-m) dowel and secure it to the clamp. If the
mower gets too close to a structure, the dowel will knock off the clamp,
and the engine will shut down.

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A GOLF CART POWERED BY THE SPIRIT (AND ENGINE) OF
A TRUCK

One day, Bill Rulien decided he’d had enough of people boasting about
how they had modified their golf carts with hot-rod paint jobs or
monster-truck tires. “I thought, I’m gonna build something that will say,
‘Well, top this.’ ”

Rulien owns several golf-cart sales shops, so he had his choice of bodies.
What he needed was a bigger engine. He picked out a cart that he’d been
selling for parts and yanked the electric motor, transmission, and
drivetrain. Then he bought an old truck for its V8 engine, drivetrain,
steering, and transmission, and began cutting up its chassis to fit the tiny
cart’s body. He shortened the truck’s driveshaft as well, but he still had to

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connect the two vehicles. With steel he had lying around, he fabricated a
frame that joins the cart’s body with the truck’s chassis.

The finished cart clears 120 miles per hour (193 km/h) and can tear up
even the deepest sand traps. Rulien is waiting until golf season to really
push the vehicle, but it has already made an impression. When a truck
driver eyed the beast, he declared, “Jeez, that’s overkill!” And thus was
she christened.

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149 SET UP DIY GROW LIGHTS

Create a light system to keep houseplants

thriving during winter’s short days.
Setting up specialized grow lights that mimic the sun’s rays is a good
solution, but you can get similar results with LEDs. We connected three

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inside a clear plastic tube to make a “light spike” that you can stick into a
pot for direct exposure, and added a controller that adjusts the brightness.

MATERIALS
Project box
Drill
2.1-mm power-connector jack
10-position header
100k-ohm slide potentiometer
Soldering iron and solder
Electrical wire
10k-ohm resistor
Wire strippers
White LED design kit
Five clear plastic tubes with endcaps
Five two-position connectors
15-volt 1A wall-mount power supply

STEP 1 Drill six holes in your project box to accommodate the various
components, then assemble the controller by mounting the power-
connector jack inside the box and the 10-position header and the 100k-
ohm slide potentiometer on the box’s sides.

STEP 2 Wire the box according to the circuitry diagram.

STEP 3 Cut the wire inside the LED design kit into five equal lengths.
Attach the red wire to the red connector, and the black wire to the black
connector, on each LED strip. Slip each strip inside a clear tube, and seal
it with the endcaps so that it’s watertight.

STEP 4 Add the two-position connectors that will hook up the tubes and
the box. Attach each one to the red and black wires from each LED strip.

STEP 5 Press a spike into your plant container. Keep all wiring,
electrical connections, and the LED strips away from soil and moisture.

STEP 6 Plug the spikes’ two-position connectors into the control box’s
10-position header, and connect the power supply to turn the LEDs on.

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STEP 7 Adjust the slide potentiometer to control the brightness of the
spikes, and watch your garden grow.

150 BUILD A CD-CASE GREENHOUSE

STEP 1 Remove the front panels from three plastic CD cases.

STEP 2 Tape the three plastic panels together to make a box with three
sides.

STEP 3 Open a fourth CD case and tape it to the box to make the last
side and a lid with a functioning hinge.

STEP 4 Place it over a small plant and set in the sun.

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151 THE ULTIMATE SNOWBLOWER
Keep your driveway clear of the white stuff with
this eight-cylinder blaster.
When Kai Grundt announced he was building a snowblower from a
discarded V8 engine, a friend just laughed. So a year later, instead of

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showing him the finished product, Grundt showed him what it could do.
He buried the man’s truck under 7 feet (2 m) of snow. From two houses
away.

Since Grundt, a metal fabricator in Muskoka, Ontario, started with the

huge engine from his old Chevy truck, he knew power wouldn’t be a
problem. The problem would be making the 800-pound (362-kg)
machine easy to handle. He didn’t want the snowblower racing away
when he revved the blades that suck up the snow—the V8’s crankshaft
spins them up to 6,200 rpm—so he chose to run its tank-like tracks via a
different system. Powered by the 412-horsepower V8, a hydraulic pump
feeds a pair of hydraulic motors that each turn one track. This allows him
to give the blades a boost while keeping the machine moving at a safe
pace.

Moving snow can be a frigid business, so Grundt installed a remote-start

system to get the machine warmed up before he steps outside. The
blower doubles as a heater, too. He faced the engine’s radiator toward the
back; an electric fan blows excess heat right at his legs.

And what about noise control? Twin custom-designed pipes ensure that
there’s no exhaust streaming into the driver’s face during operation.
Grundt also gave the pipes a series of interior channels that reroute and
slow down the expelled air, dampening the noise. Cutting down on the
decibel level also keeps the neighbors happy.

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THAR SHE BLOWS
Using controls built into the handlebars, Grundt can turn one track
forward and the other in reverse, spinning the rig in place. These
handlebars are hollow, and the coolant fluid flows through them,
keeping his hands toasty.

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www.circuitmix.com
152 RIG A DIY POLYGRAPH TEST

If you suspect somebody’s putting you on,

monitor him with a lie detector test.
MATERIALS
Scissors
Adhesive Velcro
Aluminum foil
Electrical wire
Wire strippers
Arduino UNO
10k-ohm resistor
USB cable

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STEP 1 With scissors, cut a strip of Velcro and a strip of aluminum foil
so that they are equal in length and long enough to wrap around a finger.

STEP 2 Strip the end of a piece of wire, put it on the foil’s center, and
place the adhesive Velcro on top to secure it, sandwiching the wire
between the foil and the Velcro.

STEP 3 Flip the foil over and adhere a small piece of Velcro to this side,
so that you can secure it around a finger with the aluminum foil inside—
this is an electrode. Repeat this process so you have two electrodes.

STEP 4 Wire the electrodes to the Arduino UNO according to the

circuitry diagram.

STEP 5 Connect the Arduino to your computer using the USB cable.
Then download the “Graph” code found at
popsci.com/thebigbookofhacks onto the Arduino, and run the processing
program on your computer.

STEP 6 Find a person you want answers from. Put the electrodes on one
finger of each of the person’s hands.

STEP 7 A graph pops up. The more the person sweats, the more
conductive his skin becomes, and the higher the line of the graph goes.
Skyrocketing right along with it, of course, is the likelihood that he is
lying.

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153 LISTEN IN WITH A FOXHOLE RADIO
When your radio is dead, this throwback device
will do the trick.
Prisoners of war once cobbled together these makeshift radios so they
could get the news. Now you can use one to pick up that final radio
station that hasn’t started online streaming yet.

MATERIALS
Large safety pin
Toilet-paper tube
Magnet wire
Wood pencil stub
Stripped cat 6 cable for antenna and ground
Radiator or metal coat hanger
Wood board
Metal thumbtacks
Blued or rusty razor blade
Earphones

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STEP 1 Use a safety pin to poke a hole in the toilet-paper tube, and
secure the magnet wire to the tube by tying one end through the hole.

STEP 2 Create a coil by wrapping the magnet wire tightly around the
tube 120 times, making sure that the wire is packed closely together as it
coils. The number of coils affects what radio stations you’ll pick up, so
experiment with their arrangement if you aren’t hearing your desired
station clearly.

STEP 3 Make a “cat whisker” by poking the safety pin into the graphite
of a pencil stub’s dull end.

STEP 4 Hang the antenna cable far out the window and attach a ground
cable to a metal radiator inside your home. If you don’t have a radiator,
attach the ground cable to a metal coat hanger and stick it in the ground
outside.

STEP 5 Place the toilet-paper tube and a blued razor blade onto the wood
board and push in two thumbtacks next to the tube and two next to the
razor blade. Wrap the antenna wire around the components according to
the diagram, twisting wires together when excess is needed.

STEP 6 Peel back the insulation on your headphones’ audio jack. Use
stripped wire to connect the safety pin in the pencil to one of the audio
jack’s wires, and connect the other wire to the ground.

STEP 7 Don your earphones, and touch the pencil lead to the razor
blade. Move the pencil until you pick up the smooth tunes you desire.

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154 TACK UP A DIPOLE ANTENNA
STEP 1 Use wire cutters and pliers to snip a coat hanger and stretch it
into a length of about 52 inches (132 cm).

STEP 2 Make a small U-shaped loop on each end of the coat hanger’s
wires. Sand the loops to remove paint or coating.

STEP 3 Cut a piece of plywood to 1 inch (2.5 cm) in width and 1 foot
(30 cm) in length. Screw two ½-inch (1.25-cm) sheet-metal screws about
¼ inch (6.35 mm) into the wood.

STEP 4 Hook the U-shaped wire loops around the screws.

STEP 5 Slide the U-shaped tabs of a 75- to 300-ohm matching

transformer under the metal screws on the plywood, one per screw.
Tighten the screws until the wire ends and the transformer tabs are held
together against the wood.

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STEP 6 To connect a coaxial cable, screw the cable’s F-type connector
into the transformer.

STEP 7 Connect the coaxial cable to the FM radio, turn the receiver on,
and position the antenna for the best signal.

STEP 8 Use a mounting bracket and screws to mount the antenna where
it works the best.

155 CRAFT A CELL-PHONE “CANTENNA”

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STEP 1 Use a can opener to remove the bottom of a lidless, empty can
that’s 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter.

STEP 2 Solder the open end of another lidless, empty can to the first can.
The total height should come to 1 foot (30 cm).

STEP 3 Solder a short piece of copper wire to an antenna connector, and

drill a hole for it 3¾ inches (9.5 cm) from the closed end of the cylinder.
Secure it in place with a nut on the inside.

STEP 4 Screw a passive antenna adapter cord to the antenna connector.

STEP 5 Attach the adapter cord to the back of your phone. (Don’t have a
smartphone? Try a basic pigtail adapter—choose one that works for your
specific phone.)

STEP 6 Enjoy improved reception. Hear what people have to say for a
change.

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156 BOOST WI-FI WITH A STEAMER
STEP 1 Use tin snips to remove the steamer’s center post and to make a
hole about ½ inch (1.25 cm) long for the USB modem’s connector end.

STEP 2 Insert the USB modem into the hole with the connector end
facing downward. Superglue it in place and let it dry.

STEP 3 Zip-tie two sets of two of the steamer’s leaves together so that
all the leaves stay open.

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STEP 4 Plug the USB modem’s connector end into the USB extension
cable, and plug the other end of the extension cable into your laptop’s
ethernet portal.

STEP 5 Start picking up Wi-Fi signals from far, far away.

157 HANG HDTV-ANTENNA ART

STEP 1 Strip 14-gauge copper wire, then cut and bend it into eight V-
shaped pieces. Place these wires onto a picture frame so that the peaks of
the V shapes are 5¾ inches (14.5 cm) apart, then drill a small hole on
each side of both V ends.

STEP 2 Strip 22-gauge enameled wire, then attach the V shapes to the
frame by threading the enameled wire through one of the holes, crossing
it over the copper wire, pulling it through the second hole, and twisting it
in back.

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STEP 3 Cut two lengths of copper wire to 20 inches (50 cm) in length,
then bend them as shown. Lay them down the center of the picture frame
so that they are 2 inches (5 cm) apart.

STEP 4 Attach the two vertical wires to the V-shaped pieces with more
stripped enameled wire. Make a hole on each side of the two vertical
wires’ ends, then attach them to the frame as you attached the V-shaped
pieces.

STEP 6 Wrap stripped enameled wire around the main vertical wires
where they are bent so that they nearly touch.

STEP 7 Solder two pieces of stripped enameled wire to the bottom

vertical copper wires. Connect these two wires to the matching
transformer, and then connect the transformer to your TV using a coaxial
cable.

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158 MOD AN XBOX 360 CONTROLLER
INTO A SMARTPHONE CASE

Why choose between gaming on a smartphone

and gaming on a console?
If you’ve gotten addicted to the feel of a controller in your hands, this
smartphone case mod is for you. The phone’s home button is cleverly
concealed behind one of the face buttons, and both the charging and
audio cords are neatly concealed inside the controller shell.

MATERIALS
Xbox 360 controller
Torx screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Smartphone
Rotary tool
Scissors
Superglue
Foam
3.5-mm audio-jack extension cable
Smartphone wall charger with USB cable
Pliers

STEP 1 Turn over your controller and pull off the battery compartment’s
plastic cover. Peel away the serial-number sticker inside the battery

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compartment case and use the Torx screwdriver to remove the screw
underneath it.

STEP 2 Remove the other screws on the controller’s back. Lift the back
off, and remove the bottom plate.

STEP 3 Lift out the circuit board. The thumbsticks, triggers (the buttons
on the back below the left and right bumper buttons), and rumble pack
motors (the cylindrical bits that dangle) will come right out with it.

STEP 4 Peel away the rubber pads that were behind the circuit board.
Then turn the controller upside down and let all the buttons fall out.

STEP 5 Turn the controller back over and remove the screws on the
directional pad. Use a screwdriver to release the tabs in the directional
pad’s center. Then remove the directional pad’s front and back.

STEP 6 Pull the top shelf (the upper part with the right and left bumper
buttons) off the circuit board.

STEP 7 To pry the triggers from the circuit board, apply pressure to the
long rod and pop up the triggers, then pinch their sides, pull out the
springs, and turn them gently to pry them free. Pull the left thumbstick
off the circuit board while you’re at it.

STEP 8 Turn your attention to the controller. Measure a space to fit your
smartphone inside it so that your smartphone’s home key is as close as
possible to a button on the controller. (This may be the green button, or it
may be the left thumbstick.) Cut out this hole with a rotary tool.

STEP 9 Use a rotary tool to drill multiple small holes in the controller
over your smartphone’s speakers.

STEP 10 Use scissors to cut the rubber pad that was behind the face
buttons, only leaving contacts for functioning buttons. (In the case of an
iPhone, this is the green button.) Reinstall the rubber pad inside the
console shell with the functioning button lined up with its contact.

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STEP 11 Glue all the nonfunctioning buttons back in place, along with
the left thumbstick.

STEP 12 Measure and cut foam to pad the inside of the controller’s
upper shell, with a window the same size as your smartphone’s screen.
Glue the foam inside the console’s hole.

STEP 13 Use a rotary tool to drill a hole in the bottom of the battery
compartment. It should be big enough for the female end of your audio
jack to stick out.

STEP 14 Drill a second hole in the inside wall of the battery

compartment that’s large enough so you can thread through the audio
jack’s male plug. Pull the male end through this hole and into the main
compartment.

STEP 15 Use a rotary tool to cut another hole in the battery

compartment’s back wall, this time large enough to fit the USB end of the
smartphone’s charger cable.

STEP 16 Use a rotary tool to remove the plastic casing from the
smartphone’s charging cable, reducing its size so it will fit inside the
controller. Glue this end inside the controller’s main compartment,
oriented so it will plug into your phone. Then thread the USB end
through to the battery compartment and coil the cord.

STEP 17 Place your smartphone inside the shell, attaching it to the

charging socket and plugging the male end of the audio jack into its
audio input.

STEP 18 Close the upper shell over the smartphone and secure with
screws.

STEP 19 Use your phone as you normally would, and watch people do a
double take.

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159 MAKE A PHONE “BOUNCEABLE”
STEP 1 Break a pack of Sugru (a malleable silicone rubber that sticks to
plastics) into four pieces.

STEP 2 Place one piece on each corner of your phone, folding it over
onto the front and back surfaces.

STEP 3 Mold the Sugru as desired on each corner within 30 minutes.

STEP 4 Leave it to cure overnight before using, then fear dropping it no

more.

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160 Build a Hands-Free Phone
Ever wonder what people did before
speakerphone? They built this gadget, which lets
you hang up and still hear.

www.circuitmix.com
MATERIALS
Perfboard
A-4705 microphone-to-grid transformer
A-3329 output transformer
Microphone
2-inch (5-cm) magnet speaker
Two CK721 transistors
0.01-mF ceramic capacitor
5-mF, 8-volt midget electrolytic capacitor
1-megohm carbon resistor
75k-ohm carbon resistor
Four AA batteries and holder
On/off switch
Electrical wire
Metal panel for electrical grounding
Wood paneling
Foam rubber
Glue
Screws
Soldering iron and solder
Saw
Screwdriver
Rotary tool

STEP 1 Assemble the electronics on the perfboard according to the

circuitry diagram. Leave wire so you can later attach the on/off switch,
speaker, and microphone.

STEP 2 Measure and cut wood to form the sides and bottom of a box
that’s large enough to fit the perfboard, then secure the box with wood
glue and line the interior with foam rubber to act as a sound insulator.
Glue in place.

STEP 3 Use a rotary tool to make holes on the box’s sides for the
speaker and on/off switch.

STEP 4 Place the assembled electronics in the box and secure the
perfboard with screws.Thread the speaker and on/off switch to their
openings on the sides of the box, and screw or glue them into place.

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STEP 5 Cut paneling to form the box’s lid, shaped to fit your phone’s
handset. Cut holes for the mouthpiece and earpiece.

STEP 6 Cut and glue foam rubber so that the earpiece and mouthpiece fit
the lid snugly. (These pieces will insulate against outside sound and
feedback.)

STEP 7 Mount the lid on top of the box and glue the microphone into the
opening for the earpiece under the foam rubber.

STEP 8 Place the setup near your phone. When you receive a call, place
the handset on top of the box with the phone’s earpiece next to the
microphone. Then go about your business while Aunt Marge rattles on.

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161 MAKE A REMOTE DISPLAY FOR YOUR
COMPUTER

This stylish DIY display scrolls scores, news,

weather, and anything else your computer feeds
it.

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MATERIALS
Lithium-polymer ion battery
100-mAh lithium-polymer charger
Soldering iron and solder
Electrical wire
5-volt DC-to-DC step-up circuit
On/off switch
Bluetooth modem
1-by-16-character vacuum fluorescent display (VFD)
Custom case (such as a vintage radio case)
LCD Smartie software

STEP 1 Set your soldering iron to below 350°F (176°C). Solder the
lithium-polymer ion battery to the charger.

STEP 2 Solder the lithium-polymer charger’s output to the input of the

5-volt DC-to-DC step-up circuit. Solder an on/off switch to the step-up
circuit for controlling power.

STEP 3 Connect the step-up circuit’s positive and negative terminals to

the Bluetooth modem and the 1-by-16-character display. Then connect
the Bluetooth modem’s TTL serial output to the VFD’s TTL serial input.

STEP 4 Build a box to your liking, using a salvaged radio case or pieces
of scrap wood.

STEP 5 Use your computer’s Bluetooth software for pairing and

connecting the computer to the Bluetooth modem. Set the Bluetooth port
for 9600, 8, N, and 1 communication parameters.

STEP 6 Download LCD Smartie. Select the test display device driver,
and enter the Bluetooth COM port number and communication
parameters. Set the screen size to 1-by-16-characters and apply your
changes to LCD Smartie.

STEP 7 Choose the data that you want to stream and go about your
business. Just stay within 50 feet (15 m) of your computer to ensure a
Bluetooth wireless connection.

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162 RIG A SMARTPHONE PROJECTOR

Beam your phone’s image onto a wall for an

instant big screen.
MATERIALS
Narrow cardboard box
Box cutter
Fresnel lens

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Audio cord
Speakers
Hot-glue gun
Modeling clay
Smartphone

STEP 1 Start with a narrow cardboard box (a shoebox does just fine) and
cut a hole that’s a little smaller than your Fresnel lens into one of the
smaller ends.

STEP 2 Poke a smaller hole into the opposite end of the box that’s big
enough to allow you to run the audio cord from your phone to the
speakers.

STEP 3 Using the hot-glue gun, firmly adhere the Fresnel lens over the
larger hole inside the box.

STEP 4 Place modeling clay on the side of your smartphone, then

position it on that side inside the box with the screen facing the lens. (The
modeling clay helps to stabilize your phone in the box, but you can still
adjust its position to get a better picture.)

STEP 5 Select your entertainment of choice, then set your phone’s

preferences to display in landscape orientation.

STEP 6 Connect your phone to the speakers, threading the audio cord
through the smaller hole.

STEP 7 Close up the box, aim the lens at a blank wall, and switch off the
lights. Then grab some Milk Duds and kick back with a downloaded
movie or the latest episode of The Daily Show. Your screen should
display at a nice 8½ by 11 inches (22 by 28 cm).

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163 CHARGE A PHONE WITH SOLAR RAYS
Harness the sun’s rays to keep your phone
juiced on the go.
MATERIALS
Two 3-volt, 20-mA mini solar panels
Wire strippers
Small heat-shrink tubing
Heat gun
Soldering iron and solder
Cell-phone charger
Large heat-shrink tubing
Double-sided tape
Mint tin

STEP 1 Cut the wires on both mini solar panels to 1 inch (2.5 cm) in
length; strip ¼ inch (6.35 mm) of the plastic coating off each wire.

STEP 2 Cut the small heat-shrink tubing into four 1-inch (2.5-cm)
pieces. Cover the solar panels’ two positive wires with the tubing; heat to
shrink with the heat gun.

STEP 3 Solder the negative lead of one solar panel to the positive lead of
the other. Cover with a piece of small tubing; heat to shrink with the heat
gun.

STEP 4 Cut off 2.5 feet (75 cm) from your charger cord. Strip 2.5 inches
(6.35 cm) from the loose end.

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STEP 5 Cut ¼ inch (6.35 mm) off the wires inside the cord to make
leads. Cover with the large tubing; heat.

STEP 6 Solder the negative leads of the charger cord wires and the solar
panels together; repeat with the positive leads. Slide large tubing over
them and heat.

STEP 7 Cover the backs of the solar panels with double-sided tape;
secure them inside the tin.

STEP 8 Tuck the wires into the tin and close it. To use, open up the tin
and let the solar panels juice up.

164 MAKE A SMART-PHONE TRIPOD

Take steady smartphone shots with a sporty
improvised tripod.

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STEP 1 Cut a tennis ball in half.

STEP 2 With a pen, mark three “feet” on the bottom. (These will allow
the tennis-ball half to balance.) There should be about 2 inches (5 cm)
between each foot.

STEP 3 Cut slight arches between the tripod feet.

STEP 4 Make a slit in the top of the tennis ball and insert a charger port.

STEP 5 Plug your phone into the port and snap away.

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165 TURN YOUR OLD NETBOOK INTO A
TOUCHSCREEN TABLET

Forget dropping big bucks on a fancy new tablet

—just hack your own.
MATERIALS
Netbook
Screwdriver
Putty knife
Touchscreen overlay
Epoxy
Moldable silicone, if needed
Flash drive
Keyboard
Mouse
Retractable stylus

STEP 1 Turn off and unplug your netbook, then use a screwdriver to
remove its bezel and the display’s backing so that the LCD panel and its
cables are exposed. Then remove the keyboard and trackpad. (This may
involve removing screws from the base of the netbook and prying off the
top case with a flat tool, such as a putty knife.)

STEP 2 Place the netbook’s exposed LCD panel over the area where the
keyboard and trackpad used to be, taking care to avoid damaging the
panel’s cables. Don’t cover any areas that the netbook uses for
ventilation.

STEP 3 Remove the paper on the back of the touchscreen overlay to

reveal the adhesive backing. Place it over the LCD panel.

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STEP 4 Plug the touchscreen overlay’s USB cable into the netbook’s
USB port. It will be either an internal port on the motherboard, or an
external port as on most computers.

STEP 5 Reattach the bezel to the front of the converted netbook with
epoxy. If parts of the bezel cover the touchscreen, remove them before
reattaching. If there is too much space between the bezel and the base of
the netbook tablet, fill the gap with moldable silicone, sealing the two
parts together. Let dry for 24 hours.

STEP 6 Copy the drivers that came with the touchscreen overlay onto a
flash drive and plug the drive into the newly modified netbook tablet.
Connect a keyboard and mouse to the tablet and install the drivers.

STEP 7 Run the calibration tool and use the stylus to calibrate the
touchscreen overlay.

STEP 8 Touch away on your new ad hoc touchscreen tablet, and chuckle
at suckers who spent a bundle on a brand-new one.

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166 FASHION A DIY STYLUS FOR YOUR
TOUCHSCREEN DEVICE
Cobble together a stylus and keep your greasy
fingers off that tablet.
MATERIALS
Small scissors
Conductive foam
2-mm drafting lead holder
Plastic ink tube from a ballpoint pen

STEP 1 Use the small scissors to cut a piece of conductive foam to a

cube shape about ¼ inch (6.35 mm) in length on all sides.

STEP 2 Trim the conductive foam down further to create a rounded tip.

STEP 4 Drop the piece of foam into the lead holder and use the plastic
ink tube from a ballpoint pen to push the foam down until it protrudes
just out of the tip of the holder. Discard the ink tube.

STEP 5 Pinch the holder’s tip to secure the foam in place. Try it out on a
tablet near you.

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167 PROTECT YOUR TOUCHSCREEN WITH
THIN VINYL
STEP 1 Measure and cut a piece of thin, nonadhesive vinyl sheeting to
cover the phone’s touchscreen.

STEP 2 Wipe away any dust on the vinyl and on your phone’s screen.

STEP 3 Line up the vinyl with the touchscreen and slowly apply it,
smoothing out air bubbles as you press it down.

168 STASH A FLASH DRIVE IN A CASSETTE

STEP 1 Using a small screwdriver, pry off the USB drive’s plastic
casing.

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STEP 2 Decide where you want the flash drive to poke out of the
cassette. Then trace the flash drive’s connector end onto that spot.

STEP 3 Remove the small screws holding the cassette together with the
small screwdriver.

STEP 4 Cut out the traced area with a rotary tool.

STEP 5 Wind the tape so that it’s on the spool farther away from the hole
for the flash drive.

STEP 6 Tape the flash drive down inside the cassette with electrical tape
so that its end sticks out through the hole.

STEP 7 Reassemble the cassette, load up the flash drive with a playlist
of songs, then gift it as a throwback “mix tape.”

169 MAKE A PINK-ERASER FLASH DRIVE

STEP 1 Remove the flash drive’s plastic casing.

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STEP 2 Find two erasers of the pink, parallelogram variety. Cut off the
end of one, starting where the end begins to slant down. Cut the other to
roughly one-third the original length.

STEP 3 Use a craft knife to hollow out both erasers. Test to make sure
the flash drive fits nicely.

STEP 4 Stick the drive inside the larger eraser, then cap it off with the
smaller one. There you have it: a discreet flash drive that holds your top-
secret documents—almost as if they’ve been “erased.”

170 FAKE IT WITH A SAWED-OFF FLASH

DRIVE
STEP 1 Peel off the plastic cover of the USB drive. (It helps to pick a
flash drive that’s on the smaller side.)

STEP 2 Use a craft knife to make deep cuts in the casing along both
sides of the connective end of a USB cord, piercing to the metal shell

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underneath. Peel off the plastic casing to get at the inner parts.

STEP 3 Use a small screwdriver to pry apart the metal shell. Remove the
“lid.”

STEP 4 Underneath this lid are a few wires and miscellaneous plastic
bits. They’re in your way, so go ahead and cut them out with a craft
knife.

STEP 5 Grab the flash drive, and protect its back (where there are metal
parts that require insulation) with electrical tape.

STEP 6 Apply epoxy to the inside of the opening you’ve made in the end
of the cord, then slide the USB drive inside.

STEP 7 Hack the cord, fray the wires as desired, and plug it into your
computer. Await sounds of horror.

171 HOUSE A FLASH DRIVE IN A LEGO

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STEP 1 Peel off the plastic casing on the flash drive.

STEP 2 Find a LEGO brick large enough to house the drive (a 2x6 one is
ideal). Using a rotary tool, scrape out the brick’s insides.

STEP 3 Measure the USB connector to get the dimensions that you’ll
need for the hole in the LEGO. Keep in mind that the hole should fit the
USB snugly, allowing the business end to protrude and plug into your
computer.

STEP 4 Draw a rectangle of these dimensions against the small end of

the brick. Cut the shape out with a rotary tool.

STEP 5 Use the rotary tool to remove the top from a second LEGO of
the same size and color.

STEP 6 Tape the flash drive to the top’s underside with electrical tape.

STEP 7 Glue the LEGO top to the hollowed-out LEGO, allowing the
USB connector to stick out the end.

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172 HACK A FOOT-OPERATED MOUSE

Take some strain off the old wrist with a funny

foot-powered mouse.
MATERIALS
½-inch (1.25-cm) PVC sheet
Bedroom slippers
Two roller lever switches
Optical mouse
Rotary tool
Small hand file
Soldering iron and solder
Electrical wire
Metal brackets
Nuts, bolts, and washers
Screwdriver
Metal wire
Screws and nails
7 feet (2 m) of ¾-inch (1.9-cm) clear plastic tubing
Rubber doorstops

STEP 1 On the PVC sheet, position and trace your slippers the way your
feet would rest while you’re seated. Mark places for the left- and right-
click roller lever switches near the left slipper, where your foot will
operate the mouse, then outline the mouse slightly to the left of the right
slipper’s top.

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STEP 2 Using the rotary tool, channel out holes for the roller lever
switches and a hole for the mouse. Use the file to smooth the edges of the
holes.

STEP 3 Remove the mouse’s top cover from the base. Lift out the circuit
board and remove the scroll wheel.

STEP 4 On the bottom of the circuit board, locate where the mouse’s
switches once connected to its buttons. Solder a length of electrical wire
to each of the mouse’s outboard solder connections.

STEP 5 Put the circuit board back inside the mouse cover. Solder the
lead wires from the outboard solder connections to the left and right
roller lever switches—the wire from the original left-click switch to the
new left switch, and the right to the right.

STEP 6 Secure two metal brackets to the mouse with two nuts, bolts, and
washers. Screw the brackets into the underside of the PVC sheet so that
the mouse is belly up.

STEP 7 Thread small pieces of metal wire through the mounting holes in
each roller lever switch. Bend the ends and use nails to secure the
switches under the PVC sheet.

STEP 8 Screw plastic tubing around the edges of the PVC sheet and in
between where your feet go to create bumpers that help guide your feet.

STEP 9 Trim four rubber doorstops to work as risers, propping the PVC
sheet up off the floor and providing clearance for the mouse. Screw one
to each corner of the footboard.

STEP 10 Plug the mouse’s USB connector into your computer and scroll
with your feet.

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173 TRICK OUT YOUR COMPUTER TOWER
WITH ENGRAVING
This is one tower mod that doesn’t belong
hidden under your desk.
MATERIALS
Paper and pencil or printer
Computer tower
Screwdriver
Spray paint
Plexiglas sheet
Masking tape
Safety goggles
Rotary tool

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Small engraving bits
Screws and bolts
Fluorescent strip, if needed

STEP 1 Draw or print your design on a sheet of paper to fit the tower’s
side panel.

STEP 2 Unscrew the metal side panel from your computer tower and set
it aside for later.

STEP 3 Spray-paint a sheet of Plexiglas with a color to match your case

so only the engraved design will be visible later. Let dry.

STEP 4 Tape the drawn or printed design onto your Plexiglas sheet,
being sure to tape it over the painted side.

STEP 5 Put on your safety goggles and, using the rotary tool, begin
engraving. Follow the lines of your design on the paper and etch it on the
Plexiglas beneath. Work carefully and slowly to avoid ruining your
design.

STEP 6 Remove the taped-on template and wipe down the engraved
Plexiglas.

STEP 7 Measure and cut a hole slightly smaller than your Plexiglas in
the metal panel.

STEP 8 Drill four holes into the corners of the Plexiglas and the case.
Attach the etched panel to the metal frame with screws small enough that
it will fit inside the case.

STEP 9 If your machine lacks a fluorescent strip, install one, either

plugging it into the power supply or directly to the circuit board. (Which
you choose depends on the bulb you’ve purchased, and what sort of
machine you have.)

STEP 10 Use the original bolts and screws to reattach the metal panel
with the Plexiglas inside the tower.

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174 TURN YOUR LAPTOP INTO A
WHITEBOARD
STEP 1 Cut static-cling or sticky whiteboard paper to fit your laptop’s
top.

STEP 2 Apply the whiteboard paper to your laptop. Add an adhesive

Velcro dot.

STEP 3 Stick adhesive Velcro to the back of a whiteboard marker. Then

get doodling.

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175 DYE YOUR LAPTOP
Fight the monotony of boring case colors with a
laptop dye job.
MATERIALS
White plastic laptop
Small screwdriver
Sandpaper
Denatured alcohol
Paper towel
Rubber gloves
Deep pan
8 cups (2 L) water
Fabric dye
2 tablespoons table salt

STEP 1 Carefully take apart your laptop. You’ll likely need a small
screwdriver to remove the screws that hold the case, battery, and other
parts in place. Separate the plastic parts (the ones you’ll be dyeing) from
the metal and electronic parts.

STEP 2 Sand down the plastic pieces to remove the glossy layer, which
prevents dye from absorbing quickly and evenly. Leave it if you don’t
want a matte laptop, but the process takes longer and results in
splotchiness.

STEP 3 Clean all the parts with denatured alcohol and a paper towel,
then let them dry.

STEP 4 Wearing rubber gloves, fill your deep pan with 8 cups (2 L) of
water. Add the dye to the water along with 2 tablespoons of table salt.
Stir together.

STEP 5 Place the pan on the stove and heat. When the water starts to
boil, submerge the part you wish to dye.

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STEP 6 Add water if the liquid boils off, and stir every once in a while.
Larger parts require more time.

STEP 7 Once you’re satisfied with a part’s dye distribution, remove it

from the bath, wipe it down, and rinse it with cold water. Dry thoroughly.

STEP 8 Reassemble your laptop. Resume being awesome.

176 MAKE A STEAMPUNK-INSPIRED

LAPTOP CASE

Give your high-tech machine an old-school

Victorian vibe.

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MATERIALS
Laptop
Tracing paper
Double-sided heavy-duty adhesive sheet
Wood veneer sheeting
Sandpaper
Craft knife
Hot water
Masking tape
Paint and paintbrushes
Polyurethane
Superglue
Miscellaneous embellishments

STEP 1 Lay tracing paper over the back of your laptop and trace where
the wood veneer will go, leaving holes for plugs, fans, and hatches that
allow you access to the computer’s insides.

STEP 2 Open up your laptop and, using the same method, create patterns
for the frame around the screen and the area surrounding the keyboard.

STEP 3 Apply a heavy-duty adhesive sheet to the blank side of the wood
veneer sheeting.

STEP 4 Sand the veneer for a smooth look and feel.

STEP 5 Tape the tracing paper onto the wood veneer and cut it out using
a craft knife. Cut out the veneer pieces to go around the screen and
keyboard, too.

STEP 6 In the corners of the veneer, cut diagonal slits so that you can
fold the veneer over the laptop’s corners.

STEP 7 Soak the veneer in hot water to make it pliant. Be sure to dry off
excess water before applying the veneer to your computer—for extra
security, remove the battery before placing the veneer on the laptop.

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STEP 8 Use masking tape to secure the wood to the laptop. Let it dry so
it can mold nicely to the computer’s shape, then remove it and set it
aside.

STEP 9 On your laptop, use tape to mask off any areas that the veneer
won’t cover, including the hinge. Then paint those areas a color of your
choosing.

STEP 10 Peel away the veneer’s adhesive backing and apply the veneer
to the laptop, starting with the inside pieces. Don’t press down until
you’ve got it lined up perfectly, then go slowly and press out air bubbles
as you apply it. Cut away any excess material.

STEP 11 Mask off areas that aren’t covered with veneer, then coat the
veneer with polyurethane.

STEP 12 Add any desired embellishments with superglue. Apply another

coat of polyurethane to make it for keeps.

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177 TURN ON YOUR COMPUTER WITH A
MAGNET SWITCH
Dupe would-be information thieves with a handy
on/off switch mod.
MATERIALS
Screwdriver
Computer tower with plastic front panel
Wire strippers
Reed switch
Steel or iron nut
Electrical tape
Small magnet

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STEP 1 Open your computer tower and remove the front panel, exposing
the wires attached to the power button. Cut one of the wires, and strip
both ends.

STEP 2 Place the reed switch between the two wire ends and twist them
together, sandwiching the reed switch.

STEP 3 Tape the reed switch to the inside of the front panel of your
computer and tape or glue the steel or iron nut next to it. Close the
computer back up.

STEP 4 To turn on your computer, push the power button and stick a
magnet to the case where the reed switch is located—the nut should hold
the magnet in place. If someone tries to turn your computer on without
the magnet, they’ll have no luck.

178 PRINT SECRETS WITH INVISIBLE INK

Bet the CIA sure wished it had come up with
this printer hack.

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MATERIALS
Inkjet printer
UV invisible ink
Syringe
UV lamp

STEP 1 Open up your inkjet printer and extract one of the ink cartridges.
Remove its cap and pull out the sponge.

STEP 2 Rinse out the sponge and the inside of the cartridge until the
water runs clear, then put the clean sponge back inside the cartridge.

STEP 3 Use a syringe to inject invisible ink into the sponge. Replace the
cartridge’s cap and put the cartridge back inside the printer.

STEP 4 Adjust your computer’s settings to print using only the color that
you’ve replaced with invisible ink.

STEP 5 View the secret info on the documents by holding them up to a

UV lamp.

179 FAKE OUT THIEVES WITH A DESKTOP

HACK

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Deter computer raiders with a wallpaper that
looks just like your desktop—but isn’t.
STEP 1 Take a screenshot of your computer’s desktop, then set the
screenshot as your wallpaper.

STEP 2 Hide the real icons in another folder.

STEP 3 Sit back and watch people try to open your desktop’s
unclickable folders.

180 SHIELD YOUR SCREEN FROM PRYING

EYES
Sick of snoops looking at your screen? Improvise
your own privacy monitor.
MATERIALS
LCD monitor
Craft knife
Paintbrush
Paint thinner
Paper towels
Piece of plastic
Old glasses
Tape
Superglue

STEP 1 Unplug an old LCD monitor and remove the plastic frame
around it.

STEP 2 Use a craft knife to cut around the screen’s edge, then peel back
both the polarized and the antiglare films. Hang on to the polarized layer
and remember its orientation.

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STEP 3 Apply paint thinner to loosen the glue on the monitor’s screen—
don’t drip it on the monitor’s frame. Then wipe it off with paper towels
and scrape off the softened glue with a piece of plastic.

STEP 4 Reassemble your monitor. At this point, when you turn it on, the
screen looks white and blank. If you hold up the polarized film, you
should see images on the screen.

STEP 5 Pop the lenses out of a pair of old glasses. Tape the lenses to the
polarized film and trace around them.

STEP 6 Hold the polarized film lenses up as though you were wearing
them, and look at the monitor. If you can see the images on the screen,
cut out the lens-shaped film pieces with your craft knife.

STEP 7 Glue the polarized lenses onto your glasses. Put them on, and
enjoy the invisible images on your screen.

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181 SET UP A LAPTOP COOLING SYSTEM

Chill down your machine with copper’s thermal

conductivity.
MATERIALS
Rotary tool
Paper
Scissors
Sheet of 0.5-mm copper plating
Tin snips
6-mm center-tapped lip and spur drill
Two pieces of 6-mm copper tubing, each 2 inches (5 cm) in length
Solder and soldering iron
Plastic tubing
Rubber tubing
Bilge pump

STEP 1 If necessary, use the rotary tool to cut away at your laptop’s
plastic casing until the fins of your computer’s internal radiator and heat
sink are exposed.

STEP 2 Experiment to determine how big the fins of your heat extractor
should be. Try inserting strips of paper between the fins of your
computer’s heat sink, cutting them down until they fit perfectly. For
maximum cooling, the fins should fit as deep into the heat sink as
possible.

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STEP 3 Once you’ve determined the necessary measurements for your
copper heat extractor’s fins, clean the copper sheet with soap and water.
Using one of your paper fins as a template, trace seven copper fins.

STEP 4 Trace two holes 6-mm in diameter along one of the short edges
in each fin, positioning the holes ? inch (16 mm) apart. The 6-mm copper
tubing should fit snugly through these holes, once you’ve drilled them.

STEP 5 Cut out the copper fins with tin snips and use the lip and spur
drill to cut out the holes. Set the drill to a slow speed and do your drilling
on a flat surface to prevent the copper sheet from warping.

STEP 6 Thread the fins onto the two lengths of copper tubing. You can
temporarily place coins between the fins to help space them evenly so
that they’ll line up with the heat sink’s indentations. Solder the tubes and
fins together.

STEP 7 Cut a piece of plastic tubing to a length of about 1 ½ inches

(3.75 mm). Heat it until you can bend it to fit over both pieces of copper
tubing on one side of the fin-and-tubing contraption. Insert the
contraption into your computer’s heat sink.

STEP 8 Hook two lengths of rubber tubing to the bare pieces of copper
tubing that are plugged into your computer’s heat sink. Connect these
two lengths of rubber tubing to a bilge pump filled with water. Power it
up and the water will circulate, carrying heat from the heat skink and
keeping your computer cool.

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182 CONTROL YOUR MOUSE FROM AFAR
Direct your mouse with a simple laser pointer.
MATERIALS
Optical mouse
Laser pointer, less than 10 mW

STEP 1 Lean your mouse against your computer monitor so that it’s
propped upright with its belly facing out.

STEP 2 Identify your mouse’s sensor, which looks like a tiny bubble
tinted black.

STEP 3 Shine the laser pointer directly at the sensor. Once you get a lock
on the sensor, you can move it around in the mouse’s vicinity to control
your computer’s cursor.

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183 MAKE AN EXTERNAL HARD DRIVE
STEP 1 Salvage a working hard drive from a laptop or a computer tower.

STEP 2 Locate the ports on a hard drive case’s baseplate, then attach
them to the hard drive.

STEP 3 Line up the holes in the drive and baseplate and screw them
together.

STEP 4 Slide these parts inside the case. Screw on the faceplate, lining
up its holes with the ports to keep them accessible.

184 ADD KEYBOARD THUMBTACKS

STEP 1 Remove the keys from the keyboard, and cut off the excess
plastic on the back of each key with a rotary tool.

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STEP 2 Widen the hole in the back of each key using a rotary tool. Put a
dab of glue in the hole.

STEP 3 Insert a pushpin into the hole, pointy end facing out. Pin up
something important.

185 RIG A SUPERPORTABLE KEYBOARD

Gut a keyboard to get to the touch-sensitive
membrane inside.
MATERIALS
USB keyboard
Screwdriver
Transparent contact paper
Superglue
Adhesive stickers

STEP 1 Use a screwdriver to deconstruct the keyboard. The good stuff is

in the middle: It’s the three-layer membrane and the attached control
board, which feeds the USB wire.

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STEP 2 Remove and reserve the membrane’s control board and switch
pad (the rubber pad that presses the control board’s contacts to the
membrane).

STEP 3 Using the switch pad, board, and nuts and bolts, reassemble the
membrane to the control board. The traces of the membrane should line
up with the traces on the control board. (If your keyboard had a socket
and ribbon cable, reinsert the cable.)

STEP 4 Cover both sides with transparent contact paper, and apply glue
to the edges to keep the three membranes in place.

STEP 5 Apply adhesive stickers for each key, taking care to place the
stickers on the keys’ contacts. (For instance, the space bar is huge, but
the contact is small, so you’ll want to be sure that you put the sticker
directly on the contact—just not on the key.)

STEP 6 Roll it up and be ready to type anywhere.

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186 CREATE A GLOWING MOUSEPAD

Brighten up your all-night gaming sessions with

this LED-lit mousepad.
MATERIALS
Safety goggles
Plexiglas
Tablesaw with a glass-cutting blade
Rotary tool with glass-safe bit
Two small white LED lights
Electrical wire
USB connector
Clear tape
Printed design, if desired

STEP 1 Decide what size and shape you’d like your mousepad to be.
Then, wearing safety goggles, use a table saw with a glass-cutting blade
to cut the Plexiglas to size.

STEP 2 Fit your rotary tool with a glass-safe bit, then use it to round the
Plexiglas’s edges and wear them down. The more surface area that you
make opaque, the more light your mousepad will emit.

STEP 3 Use your rotary tool to carve a channel into the Plexiglas,
starting from the top center of the glass and forking into two channels
about 1 inch (2.5 cm) down.

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STEP 4 Use the rotary tool to extend the two channels parallel to the
glass’s top edge, ending 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the Plexiglas’s edges.

STEP 5 Attach pieces of electrical wire to the LEDs’ leads, then peel
back the plastic on your USB cord. Attach the two positive wires and two
negative wires on the LEDs to the USB cord’s positive and negative
wires.

STEP 6 Place the LEDs and wires into the carved channels and secure
them with clear tape. Cover the mousepad with a design, if you like.

STEP 7 Plug the USB into your computer, dim the lights, and get your
game on.

187 UPCYCLE AN OLD CIRCUIT BOARD

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So a gadget’s circuit board is down for the
count. There are still countless things you can do
with it.

AN EVEN GEEKIER CLIPBOARD

Use a heat gun and pliers to strip off all the solder and bits and bobs,
then apply laminate to make it smooth. Swap the clip from an old
clipboard onto your new, high-tech version.

NERDTASTIC GUITAR PICK

Use a soldering iron to remove any electrical components on the
circuit board, then use a rotary tool to cut out a guitar pick shape.
Sand it until it’s smooth and start picking.

META MOUSE PAD

Desolder a circuit board so that it’s bare and cover both sides with
vinyl. Plop your new mousepad on your desk and get your scroll on.

LIGHT UP THE CIRCUIT

Form a box shape with four stripped circuit boards and drill holes in
their corners. Fasten them together with zip ties, and hook this box
up to a hanging light-socket assembly for some nice spotlight action.

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188 MAKE A LAPTOP STAND FROM A
BINDER
STEP 1 Using a metal saw, cut a piece of aluminum rail so it’s the length
of a ring binder. Then use a metal file to round the rail’s edges so you
don’t get scraped.

STEP 2 Place double-sided tape on the inner side of the rail.

STEP 3 Drill two sets of two holes big enough for bolts—one set
through the rail and one set through the binder.

STEP 4 Line up the holes and attach the rail and binder with the bolts,
securing them with a nut on the underside. Cover these bolts with tape to
avoid scratches on the laptop.

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STEP 5 Measure and cut a strip of no-skid felt to the dimensions of the
rail, then adhere it to the inner side of the rail. Measure and cut a larger
sheet of felt so that it covers the top of the binder and secure it with
adhesive. It will prevent your laptop from sliding around.

STEP 6 Use a rotary tool to cut a hole into the binder’s corner for cords
to pass through.

189 BUILD A USB HUB INTO YOUR DESK

STEP 1 Remove your computer, cords, and other electronics from your
work station to protect them from sawdust.

STEP 2 Measure your hub and mark a spot for it on a wood desktop
using a pencil and ruler.

STEP 3 Use a jigsaw to cut out the opening, tracing your marked lines.
It’s better to cut it slightly smaller than your hub (you can always sand it)
than too big (you’d have to fill any gaps with caulking).

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STEP 4 Remove the plug of wood and insert your USB hub to make sure
it fits. Use sandpaper to adjust and smooth the opening.

STEP 5 Use epoxy to attach the USB hub to the inside of the hole; let
dry.

STEP 6 Run the input cord from the USB hub up behind your desk to
your computer.

STEP 6 Next time you need to plug something in, forget reaching around
your monitor: Just plug it into the hub on your desk.

190 STASH YOUR PRINTER IN A DRAWER

STEP 1 Remove the front panel of a drawer and drill a hole into the back
panel for cables. (It’s better to do this in a lower drawer so that the
weight of your printer doesn’t stress the structure.)

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STEP 2 Measure and cut two evenly spaced recessed areas for the utility
hinges on the front edge of the bottom panel. This way, the bottom and
front panels will line up neatly when you reattach the front.

STEP 3 Line up the front and bottom panels and screw on the utility
hinges.

STEP 4 With the front panel lowered, screw the support hinges to the
drawer’s side panels and then to the front panel.

STEP 5 Place your printer in the drawer and feed the cables through the
hole in the back to attach it to your computer (or, if it’s wireless, to a
power source).

191 MOUNT STUFF BEHIND YOUR

MONITOR

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STEP 1 If you have limited desk space, use the back of your monitor for
storage. Apply double-sided tape or adhesive Velcro strips to your
computer monitor’s back, or purchase plastic hooks with suction cups or
Velcro backing.

STEP 2 Begin attaching office supplies you need—tape, tissues,

notecards, a stapler, or a holder for pens and scissors—and maybe some
you don’t. (Hey, candy and headphones can make the workday go faster.)

STEP 3 Be sure to use lightweight materials so that your monitor doesn’t

tip over. Also, keep the fan clear of obstacles. Otherwise, your machine
could overheat, which is much more inconvenient than not having any
drawers.

192 ORGANIZE LOOSE CABLES

STEP 1 Remove the dome from a CD spool. Cut a slit on the bottom of
the dome; cut another slit opposite it.

STEP 2 Wind cables around the spool and run the ends through the slits.

STEP 3 Tug on one end of a cable to adjust how much of it extends

outside the dome.

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193 MAKE A FLOPPY-DISK BOX
Solve the double problem of a messy desk and a
surplus of useless floppies with one simple DIY
craft.
MATERIALS
Five floppy disks
Drill
Twelve zip ties
Scissors

STEP 1 Locate the tiny dimples on the back of each floppy disk. Drill
through these dimples, repeating until you have holes in each corner of
four of your five disks.

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STEP 2 Place two of the four floppies in front of you so that their holes
are aligned. Thread a zip tie through the two holes at the bottom, and
then another zip tie through the two holes at the top.

STEP 3 Repeat with two more disks, then connect the four floppies into
a box shape.

STEP 4 Drill four holes in the fifth floppy, this time slightly above the
dimples. This is the box’s bottom.

STEP 5 To secure the bottom floppy to the box, line it up with one of the
sides at a 90-degree angle. Thread a zip tie through the bottom’s holes
and the holes in the side.

STEP 6 Close the box and thread zip ties through the remaining holes in
the bottom and side pieces. Cut off the ends of the zip ties.

STEP 7 Tighten and trim the zip ties, then stock the box with pens and
revel in your newfound tidiness.

194 GET PUMPED WITH A CD DUMBBELL

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CDs are pretty much obsolete. But having
jacked arms never gets old.
MATERIALS
½-inch (1.25-cm) solid threaded rod
Ruler
Permanent marker
Table vise
Reciprocating saw or hacksaw
Four ½-inch (1.25-cm) washers and nuts
About 150 CDs
½-inch (1.25-cm) wrench

STEP 1 Measure and mark 6 inches (15 cm) from one end of the rod.
(This is where the first CD stack will end.)

STEP 2 Place one hand on the rod, leaving about ½ inch (1.25 cm) of
clearance between your hand and the mark. Make a second mark about ½
inch (1.25 cm) from the opposite side of your hand.

STEP 3 Measure and make a third mark 6 inches (15 cm) from the
second mark for the second CD stack.

STEP 4 Place the rod in a table vise. Saw off any excess at the third
mark with a reciprocating saw or a hacksaw.

STEP 5 Thread a nut onto both sides of the rod to the marked lines in the
center. Add a washer on both sides.

STEP 6 Put about 75 CDs on each end, and slide on a washer and nut on
both ends. Tighten with a wrench.

STEP 7 Pop your new 10-pound (4.5-kg) dumbbell out of the vise and
do a few reps—you might not get ripped, but you’re well on your way to
getting sculpted biceps.

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195 ASSEMBLE A CEREAL-BOX
SPECTROMETER
See the rainbow inside everyday light sources
with this easy setup.
MATERIALS
Safety glasses
Thick gloves
CD
C-clamp
Craft knife
Cereal box
Tape
Light source

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STEP 1 Wearing a pair of safety glasses and thick gloves, clamp a CD
down on a surface edge. Score it across the center with the craft knife,
then break it in half.

STEP 2 Make a horizontal slit about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length in one side
of a cereal box, near the box’s top. It should be about the width of a coin.

STEP 3 In the opposite side of the box, straight across from the first
incision, make another slit. Then extend this cut to the front and back of
the box, sloping down at a 45-degree angle with your craft knife. It
should be deep enough for the CD half to at least partially slide into.
Secure the CD in place with tape.

STEP 4 Cut a ½-by-½-inch (1.25-cm-by-1.25-cm) square hole in the box

above the CD slice.

STEP 5 Hold the box up with the slit facing your light source. Look
through the viewing hole at the top to see the rays of light separated on
the CD inside the box.

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A PORTABLE X-RAY MACHINE
Late one night, Adam Munich found himself talking with two guys
online: one who complained of rolling electricity blackouts and one
who had broken his leg in Mexico and said his local hospital
couldn’t find an X-ray machine. The two situations fused in
Munich’s mind; he wondered if a cheap, reliable, battery-powered
X-ray machine existed. After discovering that the answer was no, he
spent two years building one himself out of nixie tubes, old
suitcases, chain-saw oil, and electronics from across the globe. It
was an incredibly ambitious project for anyone, let alone a 15-year-
old.

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196 RIG A SUPERSIMPLE RADIATION
DETECTOR

Fear fallout no more with a device that tells you

when radiation levels are high.
Radiation is all around us in small doses, and most of it isn’t harmful for
you—it’s really the ionizing, DNA-scrambling stuff that we have to look
out for. Enter this chamber–in-a-can, which lets you see if an object’s
radiation levels are off the charts.

MATERIALS
Aluminum can
Craft knife
NPN Darlington transistor
Electrical tape
Electrical wire
9-volt battery and snap
4.7k-ohm resistor
Soldering iron and solder
Aluminum foil
Rubber band
Multimeter

STEP 1 Make a hole in the can with a craft knife. Bend the transistor’s
base leg down into the can and tape it in place.

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STEP 2 Use electrical wire to attach the transistor’s collector leg to the
negative pole of the battery snap. Keep the transitor’s leads sticking up,
away from the can.

STEP 3 Solder one lead of the resistor to the base of the can, near the
edge. Attach the other lead to the positive pole of the battery snap with a
piece of wire.

STEP 4 Tape the battery snap to the side of the can and hook the battery
up to the snap.

STEP 5 Cover the can’s open end with aluminum foil. Pull the foil taut,
then secure it with a rubber band.

STEP 6 Attach one probe of the multimeter to the transistor’s emitter

leg, and the other to the wire between the resistor and the battery.

STEP 7 Turn on the multimeter. Allow the reading to stabilize—avoid

touching the can or moving around near it. Once it stabilizes, you’ll have
the baseline reading for the radiation in the room. Keep the can away
from power sources, which could confuse its reading.

STEP 8 To measure the radioactivity of an object relative to the baseline,

simply place it beside the can’s end and observe the changed reading on
your multimeter.

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197 SET UP A PLASMA GLOBE INSIDE A
SIMPLE LIGHTBULB

Make a miniature Tesla coil inside this

ubiquitous household fixture.
MATERIALS
Ferrite-core flyback transformer (salvaged from an old CRT television)
Wire strippers
Screwdriver
Hacksaw

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18-gauge wire
22-gauge wire
Electrical tape
Rotary tool
Project box
60-watt or higher clear lightbulb
24-volt DC-power supply
On/off switch
Superglue
Electrical wire
Lightbulb socket
2N3055 transistor and heat sink
5-watt, 27k-ohm resistor
5-watt, 240k-ohm resistor
Soldering iron and solder

Decades ago, famous mad scientist Nikola Tesla invented what he called
the “inert gas discharge tube” to conduct various experiments in
electricity and magnetism.

These days, you can use the same technology to create an entertaining
display piece that generates static and responds to your touch by arcing
electricity to your fingertips. With a few salvaged materials, you too can
harness the power of high-frequency alternating current—and be well on
your way to becoming a mad scientist yourself.

STEP 1 Salvage a transformer from an old CRT television. To do this,

turn off the television and unplug it, then open up its back and locate the
transformer. (It’s the bulky square metal ring with two cylindrical “cores”
on it, bolted into the television’s circuit board.)

STEP 2 Remove the transformer by clipping away the wires (leaving

extra wire on the transformer itself) and unscrewing the bolts holding it
to the circuit board.

STEP 3 There are two sets of windings on the transformer’s primary and
secondary core, both encased in plastic. Use a hacksaw to cut through the

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plastic around the windings on the smaller primary core. Then cut
through and remove the windings.

STEP 4 Wind 18-gauge enameled wire around the spot where the
windings used to be about five times. Then wrap 22-gauge wire four
times next to the 18-gauge windings. Secure both wires with electrical
tape.

STEP 5 Use a rotary tool to make three holes in a project box: one for
your lightbulb socket, one for the power supply, and one for the on/off
switch. Super-glue these parts in place on the top and side of the box, and
place the transformer inside the box.

STEP 6 On the secondary core, there is another set of windings. Pry the
two loose ends off the core and twist them to the connectors on the
lightbulb socket.

STEP 7 Take one end of the 18-gauge wire wrapped around the
transformer and connect it to the transistor’s case post, and connect the
other end to the power switch.

STEP 8 Take one end of the 22-gauge wire and attach it to the
transistor’s base post. Attach the 22-gauge wire’s other end to a wire
between the 27k-ohm resistor and the 240k-ohm resistor.

STEP 9 Complete the rest of the circuit as shown below using electrical
wire, then screw your lightbulb into the socket, plug in your power
supply, and turn on the switch.

STEP 10 Kill the lights and watch your plasma globe glow.

WARNING

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 Tesla may have invented alternating current, but he sure didn’t
like to see people get electrocuted with it. Avoid this fate by
exercising extreme caution when handling the transformer, as its
high voltage is immensely dangerous.

A HOMEMADE SCANNING ELECTRON MICROSCOPE

Ben Krasnow went looking for a challenge and decided to try his
hand at the toughest one he could imagine: a homemade scanning
electron microscope, fashioned from an old oscilloscope, a glass bell
jar, and a refrigerator magnet to focus the electron beam. His
completed microscope delivers about 50x magnification—a far cry
from commercial SEMs’ 1,000x or more—but experts say that
doesn’t lessen the accomplishment. William Beaty, a research

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 engineer who had hoped to build the first DIY SEM, put it simply:
“D’oh!”

198 ILLUMINATE SKETCHES WITH

HOMEMADE CONDUCTIVE INK
Write it, wire it up, and see it in lights.
MATERIALS
2.5 ml ammonium hydroxide
Two pipettes
Test tube
1 gram silver acetate
Centrifuge
0.2 ml formic acid
Syringe
Syringe filter
Glass vial
Glass to paint on
Thin paintbrush
9-volt battery
LEDs

STEP 1 Use a pipette to measure the ammonium hydroxide into a test

tube, then add the silver acetate. Place the tube in the centrifuge; let it

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mix for 15 seconds.

STEP 2 Using a second pipette, transfer 0.2 ml formic acid into the test
tube solution one drop at a time, mixing it in the centrifuge between each
drop.

STEP 3 Set the test tube aside for 12 hours.

STEP 4 Pull the plunger out of the back of a syringe and add a filter to
the syringe, then decant the solution in the test tube into the syringe.

STEP 5 Open the glass vial and place it under the syringe, then place the
plunger back into the syringe and force the liquid through the filter and
into the vial.

STEP 6 Using the liquid in the vial, draw or write something on glass
with a thin paintbrush, leaving gaps for the leads of the power source and
the LEDs.

STEP 7 Heat the glass in an oven set to 200°F (93°C). Wait 15 minutes,
then remove it. It should have a conductive silver coating.

STEP 8 Once you’ve placed the battery and LEDs on the glass, your
circuit art will light right up.

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199 HACK INFRARED GOGGLES
STEP 1 Unscrew the eyepieces from a pair of welding goggles. Remove
the dark green welding lenses, leaving just the clear plastic.

STEP 2 Use a green welding lens as a template to cut out eight circles of
blue gel sheet and two circles of red gel sheet.

STEP 3 Add four blue gel sheet pieces to each eyepiece, screw them
back onto your goggles, and enjoy the crazy spectrum.

STEP 4 Add a red gel sheet piece for a different effect. Whatever you do,
just don’t look at the sun.

200 DECIMATE STUFF WITH A DIY LASER

CUTTER

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It used to be lasers were just for scientists. Now
they’re for anyone who can harvest a few parts
from an old PC.
MATERIALS
Old computer with a DVD burner
Soldering iron and solder
Knife
Vise
Metal file
Pliers
Tweezers
AixiZ module
LM317 regulator
3k-ohm resistor
Wire strippers
Drill
Thermal glue
Laser safety goggles

STEP 1 Unplug the computer and open its case. Locate and remove the
power supply, heat sinks, and DVD burner.

STEP 2 Open the DVD burner, lift the circuit board, and remove the sled
underneath (the part with the laser diode).

STEP 3 To extract the laser diode from its heat sink, first load your
soldering iron with enough solder so it will make contact with both of the
diode’s soldered pins. Slide a knife under the diode’s ribbon, and pull up
on it as you touch the solder to the diode’s pins to remove the ribbon.

STEP 4 Place the laser diode in a vise and file through its heat sink.
Once you’ve weakened the heat sink, hold it with pliers and wedge a

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knife under the lip of the top. Use tweezers to extract the diode from the
heat sink.

STEP 5 Unscrew the AixiZ module (a laser housing unit) and place the
top facedown on your workspace. Drop the laser diode in it with the laser
facing down, carefully pressing it so the diode’s back is flush with the
module.

STEP 6 Attach two long leads to the diode’s negative and positive pins
and reattach the back of the AixiZ module, threading the leads through
the hole in its back.

STEP 7 Solder a 3k-ohm resistor across the LM317 regulator’s

adjustable and output voltage pins, then solder the laser diode’s positive
lead to the adjustable pin on the LM317 regulator.

STEP 8 Clip the wire connectors off the ends of the wires attached to the
power supply, then clip and strip the black and green wires and solder
them together.

STEP 9 Solder the diode’s negative lead to the power supply’s red
(negative) wire, and the power supply’s yellow (positive) wire to the
regulator’s input pin.

STEP 10 Drill a ½-inch (1.25-cm) hole through the large heat sink that
you harvested from your computer.

STEP 11 Slide the AixiZ module into the large heat sink, making sure it
doesn’t protrude. Secure with thermal glue.

STEP 12 Use thermal glue to attach the small heat sink to the LM317
driver you wired.

STEP 13 Put on safety goggles that are specifically designed to protect

against lasers. Burn and cut things.

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 WARNING
Lasers are incredibly cool—and incredibly dangerous. Don’t
point this at anyone (ever) or burn items likely to create harmful
fumes. And, of course, always wear protective gear.

201 A 3D PRINTER THAT RUNS ON SUN

AND SAND

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This bizarre-looking contraption turns the
desert’s resources—a whole lot of sun and sand
—into glass.
When design student Markus Kayser wanted to test his sun-powered,
sand-fed 3D printer, he knew the gray skies outside his London
apartment wouldn’t do. So he shipped the 200-pound (90-kg) device to
Cairo, Egypt, hoping to find plenty of sun and sand that could, in
conjunction with a large lens, produce glassware.

How does this machine work? Two aluminum arms, holding the lens at
one end and solar panels at the other, can pivot from straight overhead
down to a 45-degree angle to chase the sun. Sensors detect the shadows
and feed the data on their position to Kayser’s computer, which directs
the motorized frame to adjust to properly align the lens. Two photovoltaic
panels, one on either side of the machine, keep the printer powered. Since
the panels are attached to the same arms as the lens, they also benefit
from the sun tracking, ensuring that they always get direct light.

Kayser first designs the object he wants to print in a computer-assisted

design (CAD) program. His computer sends instructions to the printer,
which works from the bottom up. After a layer has cooled into glass, he
adds more sand to the sandbox in the center of the machine and flattens it
out, and the printer begins heating the next layer. Kayser’s first major
piece, a bowl, took about four and a half hours to print.

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 PRINTING A BETTER BOWL
Kayser has printed a glass bowl and several sculptures. He admits
they’re not perfect; he says he could have used more complicated
optics. But, he adds, perfection wasn’t the point: “This is about
showing the potential.”

202 SHINE A MINI FLASHLIGHT

STEP 1 Connect two 3-volt batteries side by side with ¾-inch (1.9-cm)
electrical wire and tape.

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STEP 2 Tape the LED’s leads loosely to the batteries, connecting
positive to positive and negative to negative terminals. STEP 3 Poke a
hole in an SD-card case and insert the batteries with the LED terminals.

STEP 4 Squeeze the case to make the LED’s leads press against the
battery and light up.

203 BRIGHTEN UP A STANDARD-ISSUE

FLASHLIGHT
Turn an average flashlight into something much,
much brighter.
MATERIALS
Small industrial flashlight
Rotary tool
Krypton bulb
Three lithium 3-volt batteries

STEP 1 Twist off the bottom of the flashlight canister. Remove and
discard the batteries.

STEP 2 Unscrew the top. Take out the factory-issue bulb and recycle it
or reserve it for another project.

STEP 3 Use a rotary tool to remove the ridges inside the battery housing
that hold the batteries in tightly.

STEP 4 Insert the krypton bulb and put the top of the flashlight back in
place.

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STEP 5 Insert the 3-volt batteries into the case where the standard
batteries once were.

STEP 6 Close the flashlight and cast a brighter beam.

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204 BEAM A BATMAN-STYLE SPOTLIGHT

Send up a tiny desktop signal whenever you’re

in need of big-time assistance.
MATERIALS
Large translucent flip-top bottle cap from a detergent or shampoo bottle
Craft knife
Aluminum foil
Scissors
Double-sided tape
USB laptop light
Wire cutters
Soldering iron and solder
Hot-glue gun
Clear plastic sheet
Cap from a sports bottle
Loose change
Foam board or cardboard
Black paint

STEP 1 Use a craft knife to cut off the top of the large flip-top bottle cap;
discard it. Wrap the bottle cap in strips of aluminum foil, leaving small
gaps between strips and adhering them with double-sided tape.

STEP 2 Cut the USB plug off the USB laptop light using the wire
cutters; pull out the LED and its attached wires.

STEP 3 Flip the bottle cap over so that the exit hole is on the bottom and
the cap’s neck becomes the top. Crumple up aluminum foil, form it into a
rough bowl shape, and place it inside the cap.

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STEP 4 Punch a hole in the aluminum foil with a craft knife. Thread the
LED wires through it and out the exit hole of the large cap, nestling the
LED in the bowl shape.

STEP 5 Use a craft knife to make a slit in the covering of the USB
lamp’s detached USB plug, and peel the covering off. Then take apart the
metal case and solder the wires that once went to the LED encased in the
lamp back on to the LED’s relevant pins.

STEP 6 Use hot glue to secure the wires in place. Reattach the metal
case and then the rubber outer housing.

STEP 7 Cut a piece of plastic sheet to fit over the cap, with three tabs
around the edge to fit down into the bottle cap. Fold down the tabs and
apply glue to them, then press the plastic “lens” in place.

STEP 8 Cut a tiny logo out of aluminum foil and glue it onto the lens.

STEP 9 Use the cap from a sports bottle to make the base. Glue a couple
of coins into the cap’s bottom to weight it.

STEP 10 Cut a support piece out of foam board or cardboard for the
spotlight to rest in. Be sure to make a slender bottom point that will fit
into the small hole in the sports-bottle-cap base. Paint the base and
support black.

STEP 11 Glue the foam support to the small sports-bottle-cap base, then
glue the spotlight to the support.

STEP 12 Send your signal.

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205 REPURPOSE FOIL FOR TECHIE USE
Dig this stuff out of a kitchen cupboard and
make the most of its conductive properties.

DO-IT-YOURSELF CAPACITORS
Cut a 2-foot (60-cm) length of aluminum foil, and three lengths of
plastic wrap to match. Cut the foil in half lengthwise and tape a
piece of electrical wire to each sheet, then put the pieces of foil on
top of each other with plastic wrap in between. Put more plastic
wrap on top of and below the foil, then roll it all up and hook the
wires to a battery charger. Charge stuff up.

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 SECURE LOOSE BATTERIES
Sometimes, batteries don’t quite connect with the springs inside
your devices. So fold up a piece of aluminum foil and slide it
between the battery terminals and the springs.

CELL-PHONE–SIGNAL BLOCKER
To stay under cover and prevent people from picking up your GPS
coordinates, tightly wrap your phone in multiple layers of aluminum
foil. To test it, try calling your phone. If it goes straight to voicemail,
the signal to and from your phone is successfully blocked, and your
coordinates are protected.

DIY LIGHT REFLECTOR

Wrap a large piece of cardboard in foil to create a quick and cheap
light reflector for photography.

206 IMPROVISE A TRIPOD

STEP 1 Poke a hole in the center of the bottom of a plastic cup.

STEP 2 Insert a bolt that fits your camera’s threaded tripod hole. Glue
the bolt in place.

STEP 3 Screw on your camera and start snapping.

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207 MOUNT A CAMERA TO YOUR BIKE
Document your epic rides with a bike-bell mod.
MATERIALS
Bicycle bell
Camera
Bicycle
Screwdriver

STEP 1 Find a bike bell with a central screw that fits the tripod mount on
the bottom of your camera. Most tripod mounts measure ¼ inch (6.35
mm).

STEP 2 Attach the bell to the handlebars.

STEP 3 Use a screwdriver to remove the bell’s dome.

STEP 4 Screw the camera’s tripod mount to the bell’s central screw.
Orient the camera whichever way you like, and start shooting your
photographic travelogue.

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208 BUILD A TIME-LAPSE CAMERA STAND
Upgrade your kitchen timer for slick panoramic
photos on the cheap.
MATERIALS
Kitchen timer
Drill
¼-inch (6.35-mm) 20 set screw
⅜-inch (9.5-mm) bolt

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⅜-inch (9.5-mm) 20 bushing
Craft knife
Rubber mat
Glue
Tripod
Tripod mount
Camera
Computer with photo-editing software

STEP 1 Drill a 15/64-inch (6-mm) hole into the center of a kitchen

timer’s dial. Insert a ¼-inch (6.35-mm) 20 set screw.

STEP 2 In the bottom of the timer, drill a hole 11/32 inches (8.75 mm) in
diameter. Screw a ⅜-inch (9.5-mm) bolt into the hole to create threads for
a ⅜-inch (9.5-mm) bushing (a threaded insert that will allow you to
mount the timer to the tripod).

STEP 3 Measure and cut a piece of rubber mat, leaving a hole for the
bushing, and glue it to the bottom of the timer.

STEP 4 Mount the timer on a tripod, attach the tripod mount and camera,
and set the timer. Adjust the camera’s settings to take pictures at regular
intervals, and then transfer the shots to a computer and create a
panoramic time-lapse montage with photo software.

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209 RIG A PLASTIC-BOTTLE DIFFUSER
STEP 1 Cut out a small section of an empty frosted plastic water jug.

STEP 2 Cut a hole in the section large enough for the camera’s lens to fit
through.

STEP 3 Place the diffuser on the camera so it covers the flash. Snap
away.

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210 MAKE YOUR CAMERA WATERPROOF
STEP 1 Cut a piece of toilet-paper tube to match the depth of your
camera lens and cover your lens with it.

STEP 2 Stretch an unlubricated condom open. Add a packet of desiccant

gel—it will prevent moisture—and slide your camera inside with the tube
in place.

STEP 3 Tie the condom slack into a knot and superglue the knot to make
it watertight.

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STEP 4 Stretch a second condom open and insert the wrapped camera,
knot side in. Tie and glue the knot again. Dive in and document.

211 CREATE A PEEPHOLE FISHEYE LENS

STEP 1 Turn on your camera and extend the zoom as far as it will go.

STEP 2 Grab a standard peephole from a home-supply store and, making

sure the peephole is facing the right way out, pop it over the camera lens.

STEP 3 Hold it in place or attach it to the lens with heavy-duty tape.

(Look for tape that doesn’t leave a residue, which could make your lens
stick.)

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212 ADAPT A MANUAL LENS TO YOUR
DSLR
STEP 1 Procure a twist-on adapter ring and a compatible manual-focus
lens from a vintage film camera. (These options are both way less
expensive than the lenses you can buy for a DSLR, and you can even find
old macro, fisheye, and ultrazoom lenses relatively inexpensively—just
make sure they’re compatible with your DSLR before purchasing.)

STEP 2 Insert the lens into the adapter. There is usually a dot or some
kind of marking on both the lens and the adapter that makes it easy to see
how the two fit together.

STEP 3 Twist the lens while holding the adapter in place, as if you were
mounting the lens onto a camera body. The lens should make a click or

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locking sound when it’s secured.

STEP 4 Mount the lens and adapter combination onto your camera like
any other lens and get shooting.

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213 Snap a Self-Portrait with a DIY Remote
Shutter Release
Trigger your camera’s shutter from afar with
basic household parts.
MATERIALS
Rotary tool
Pill bottle with snap-on lid
Craft knife
Rubber tubing that fits snugly over the nozzle of your squeeze bottle
Shutter release cable
Plastic squeeze bottle
Short piece of plastic tubing that fits snugly into the rubber tubing
Balloon
Thread
Talcum powder
Cork that fits into the pill bottle

STEP 1 Use a rotary tool to drill a hole into the pill bottle’s lid big
enough to fit the rubber tubing.

STEP 2 Drill a hole in the bottom of the pill bottle for the trigger of your
shutter release cable. Insert the trigger.

STEP 3 Use a craft knife to cut the rubber tubing long enough to cover
the longest distance that you anticipate being from the camera. Insert the
nozzle of your squeeze bottle into one end of the rubber tubing.

STEP 4 Thread the tubing’s other end through the hole in the pill bottle’s
lid and onto the short plastic tubing.

STEP 5 Pull the balloon’s opening around the piece of plastic tubing and
tie it on securely with thread.

STEP 6 Dust the piece of cork with talcum powder and insert it into the
pill bottle. Lower the balloon into the bottle so that it rests against the

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cork.

STEP 7 Test that everything is airtight, then hook the cable to your
camera and get in front of the camera, holding the squeeze bottle. When
you’re ready, squeeze the bottle, and the balloon will inflate, pushing the
cork against the cable’s trigger. Say “cheese,” anyone?

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214 SET UP A HIGH-SPEED AUDIO-
TRIGGERED FLASH

Light up superquick action with a superquick

audio-triggered flash.

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MATERIALS
Disposable flash camera
Two AA and two AAA alkaline batteries
Voltage meter
Sensitive-gate, 400-volt, 0.8-amp silicon-controlled rectifier (SCR)
Wire strippers
Soldering iron and solder
3.5-mm stereo cable
Cassette recorder
Electret microphone
Camera capable of “B” (bulb) or prolonged exposures (at least two seconds)
Tripod

STEP 1 Remove the exterior plastic, film advance system, and shutter
assembly from the disposable flash camera. Make sure it has fresh
batteries.

STEP 2 Locate the camera’s flash terminals, located near where the
shutter was. Use a voltage meter to determine which terminal is positive
and which is negative.

STEP 3 Solder the cathode pin of the silicon-controlled rectifier to the

negative flash terminal and the anode pin to the positive flash terminal.

STEP 4 Snip off one jack of the 3.5-mm stereo cable. Peel back its
plastic to expose the red, white, and ground wires.

STEP 5 Solder the stereo cable’s red and white wires to the silicon-
controlled rectifier’s gate pin and its ground wire to the negative flash
terminal (with the cathode pin).

STEP 6 Plug an inexpensive electret microphone into the tape recorder’s

mic input. Plug the jack of the 3.5-mm stereo cable into the audio output.

STEP 7 Remove the tape recorder’s door and look for the recorder’s
write-protection button, a small movable “finger” opposite the record
head. Hold down this button and press the recorder’s red record button to

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start charging the disposable camera’s flash. When the amber ready light
glows steadily, you can start using it.

STEP 8 Find a dark area, mount your camera onto a tripod, and set the
shutter of the camera you’ll be shooting with for a bulb exposure.
(Cameras that can deliver timed 1- to 4-second exposures can also work.)

STEP 9 Kill the lights, hold the flash trigger near your subject, open the
camera’s shutter, and record a high-speed event that is accompanied by a
noise—such as the pop of a water balloon or the smack of a slap. Take
your pick and take some pics.

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215 A CAMERA THAT SHOOTS HUGE
PHOTOGRAPHS
This beast of a camera allows you to capture
huge images on X-ray film. Problem is, you’ll
have to build it first.
Darren Samuelson had just taken his last photo of Manhattan when the
police arrived. He and his father had been working from an empty dock
across the Hudson River, and the authorities wanted to know what they
were doing with a folding contraption that was more than 6 feet (1.8 m)
long and 70 pounds (32 kg) pointed at the city. Samuelson pleaded that it
was a camera, and that he was just a tourist. They believed him and he
got his shot—a photo so detailed that the print could be blown up to half
the length of a volleyball court and still remain sharp.

Samuelson specially built this camera for X-ray stock that measures 14
by 36 inches (35 cm by 90 cm) and is cheaper than large-format photo
paper. He began by constructing the massive accordionlike bellows
required to adjust the camera’s focal length manually, spending two
weeks on the floor folding, cutting, gluing, and inserting the ribs that
would give it form. The camera and bellows unfold and slide out on rails,
with a lens at one end and the film holder at the other. To focus, he slides
either end in or out. The result is not point-and-shoot, Samuelson admits,
and the build wasn’t easy (the parts list runs to 186 rows on a
spreadsheet). “But when I hold up a print and see the amazing detail,” he
says, “I think, ‘Yeah, this was worth it.’”

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MEGA PRINTS
Each print measures 3 feet (90 cm), and while shooting Samuelson
drapes an immense black cloak over himself and the camera to
block out light.

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www.circuitmix.com
216 RIDE WITH A GREASE-FREE PANT LEG
STEP 1 Dig up an old toe strap from a pair of retired bike pedals. Apply a
strip of adhesive reflective tape to the strap; it’ll keep you safe during
night rides.

STEP 2 Gather your chain-side pant leg, or roll it up to about mid-calf.

STEP 3 Wrap the toe strap around your calf, thread the buckle, and
tighten. Adjust on the fly.

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217 REINFORCE YOUR TIRE WITH A SEAT
BELT
STEP 1 Head to the junkyard or second-hand store and find an old seat
belt.

STEP 2 Use scissors to cut off the buckle and latch plate.

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STEP 3 Lay the belt inside your bicycle tire and cut it so that the ends
don’t overlap.

STEP 4 Insert your tire tube as you normally would and stretch the tire
back onto the rim, making sure the tube still fits well inside the tire.

218 STAY SAFE WITH A BEER-VIEW

MIRROR
STEP 1 Obtain a piece of mirror that fits into your bottle cap. (Or use a
glass cutter to score and punch out a small circle from a larger mirror.)

STEP 2 Using a drill bit that matches the diameter of a bicycle spoke,
drill two holes in the rim of a bottle cap. The holes should be directly
opposite each other.

STEP 3 Thread the spoke onto the cap. Once the spoke is through both
sides of the cap, secure it by placing putty on the spoke’s end.

STEP 4 Squeeze some glue into the back of the bottle cap and set the
mirror down into it. Arrange the cap so the mirror will face you when it’s
installed on the helmet. Bend the cap and mirror on the spoke about 90
degrees, then wait 24 hours for the glue to dry completely.

STEP 5 Take a good look at your helmet to devise a proper mounting

method. If your helmet has holes, you’ll need to thread the spoke through
one of them and then use needle-nose pliers to bend the spoke’s end into a

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loop, then secure one end of the loop through the helmet’s hole. Other
helmet styles will call for other tactics—just make sure it’s mounted in a
way that won’t poke you.

STEP 6 Hold the spoke in front of your helmet and determine how much
length you’ll need, given your mounting method and how far you’d like it
to extend in front of you. Cut it to this length.

STEP 7 Secure it to your helmet and ride safe.

219 KEEP YOUR HANDLEBAR GRIPS

TIGHT

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STEP 1 If your handlebars start to slip around, remove the rubber grips.
Wipe out the inside of the grips with a soft cloth.

STEP 2 Spray a few pumps of hair spray—the non-aerosol kind works

best—inside the grips.

STEP 3 While the hair spray is wet, slide the grips into place on your
handlebars.

STEP 4 Let the hair spray set overnight. Enjoy your no-budge grips.

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220 BRING THE PARTY WITH A BIKE
SPEAKER

Everyone knows that bike rides are best when

they come with a soundtrack.
MATERIALS
Bike with a rear rack
10-inch (25-cm) speaker with cable
Marker
Four bolts with washers and nuts to fit
2-by-2-inch (5-by-5-cm) wood board
Waterproof plastic container
Drill
Small screws
Foam
Tripath-based amp
Bike-light mount
Media player with clip holder
Superglue

STEP 1 Set the speaker on your bike rack and mark places for four holes
on its underside for bolts.

STEP 2 Take the grille off the speaker and remove the woofer. Drill the
holes you marked and put the bolts in so that they stick out from the
speaker box’s bottom.

STEP 3 Cut the 2-by-2-inch (5-by-5-cm) board to the size of your

speaker’s bottom. Make two holes in each board for the bolts in the
speaker.

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STEP 4 Put the woofer and the grille back into the speaker box, and use
the washers and nuts to bolt the speaker to the board on the rack.

STEP 5 Screw the waterproof plastic container onto the speaker’s top.
Drill two holes in one side of the container and line its bottom with foam.
Place the amp inside.

STEP 6 Connect the speaker to the amp’s right channel with the speaker
cable, threading it through one of the holes in the container’s side.

STEP 7 Attach the bike-light mount to your handlebar, and glue on your
media player’s clip holder. Slide your media player in.

STEP 8 Thread your media player’s cord through the second hole in the
plastic container’s side to connect it to the amp. Press play and put the top
on.

STEP 9 Watch parties erupt as you ride by.

221 STAY WARM ON CHILLY RIDES

STEP 1 Wad or fold newspaper to the length of your chest.

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STEP 2 Insert the paper into your jacket and zip it up. Add more if you
want extra warmth.

STEP 3 Ride on in the cold.

222 MAKE A UNICYCLE OUT OF A BIKE

Turns out unis aren’t so tricky to make, but
they’re still just as tricky to ride.
MATERIALS
Old fixed-gear bicycle with a straight fork
Hacksaw
Metal file
Allen wrench

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Steel pillow blocks

STEP 1 Remove the bicycle’s front fork. Use a hacksaw, if necessary, to

cut the frame where it’s attached to the fork. File the edges of the cut
pieces to smooth them.

STEP 2 Remove the handlebar and stem from the front fork using the
Allen wrench.

STEP 3 Remove the rear wheel and crank. To do this, take the chain off
the gears of the rear wheel and unfasten the bolts that hold it to the frame.

STEP 4 Attach the front fork to the wheel axle by clamping the steel
pillow blocks on each side of the fork and attaching the blocks to the axle
at the spacers, using the bottom lock nut. Reattach the crank and pedals.

STEP 5 Insert the seat post into the front fork and unicycle away. (Just
spare us the clown suit.)

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223 NAVIGATE WITH AN OLD-FASHIONED
GPS

Because the best bike adventures lack cell

reception.
MATERIALS
Bicycle
Sturdy plastic mesh
Scissors
Large zip-top storage bag
Two Velcro strips 6 inches (15 cm) in length
Velcro strip 5 inches (12.5 cm) in length
Map

STEP 1 Cut the plastic mesh so that when you slide it inside the storage
bag it lies flat.

STEP 2 Remove the mesh and make four slits in it just large enough for
the Velcro strips to fit through. Two horizontal slits go in the upper
corners; two vertical slits go in the center (where your bike’s top tube is).

STEP 3 Slip the mesh inside the bag and adjust it so that it butts up
against the zipper. Mark the location of the top slits on the back and front
of the bag. Mark the location of the center strips on the back of the bag
only.

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STEP 4 Remove the mesh from the bag. Cut slits along the bag’s
markings.

STEP 5 Pass the Velcro strips through the slits in the bag. Wrap the 6-inch
(15-cm) strips around the handlebars and the 5-inch (12.5-cm) strip
around the top tube, and fasten them into loops. Insert the mesh back into
the bag.

STEP 6 Open the bag and slide a printout of your route inside it.

STEP 7 Start riding, referring to your map when needed.

224 MAKE YOUR BIKE’S TIRES SNOW

PROOF
Brave the winter with DIY snow chains for your
bike.
STEP 1 Make sure your bike has a coaster brake, a disc brake, or, if it’s a
fixed gear, no brake. (This particular trick won’t work with rim brakes.)

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STEP 2 Gather two zip ties for each spoke gap on both of your bicycle’s
tires.

STEP 3 Wrap a zip tie around the tire and rim, positioning the zip tie’s
head halfway between the outside of the tire and the rim. Fasten it shut.

STEP 4 Continue placing zip ties in the spoke gaps, alternating the side
on which the head faces and leaving enough clearance between the zip ties
and your fenders.

STEP 5 Trim the end of each zip tie just to the head. Ride off into the
slush.

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225 PROTECT YOUR BIKE SADDLE FROM
THEFT
Deter bike saddle thieves with simple, persuasive
inconvenience.
STEP 1 Making sure your seat post is at maximum height, measure a
length of chain long enough to wrap through the saddle rails and seat
stays.

STEP 2 Break the chain at your measured loop length and cut a used
inner tube to the length of the chain.

STEP 3 Drop the chain through the inner tube.

STEP 4 Thread the chain between your saddle’s seat rails and seat stays,
then use a chain tool to rejoin the chain.

STEP 5 Never ride home without a saddle again.

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226 REUSE A BUSTED BIKE TUBE
A flat tire can really ruin your day. Get revenge
on it with these simple reuse ideas.

SUPER-SIZE RUBBER BANDS

Cut them into long strips and use them to secure all sorts of things.
You can also make a really big rubber-band ball, or shoot them into
the sky. (If you shoot them at people, you didn’t get this idea here!)

GET A GRIP
Wrap a tube around the handle of common household tools (such as
screwdrivers, brooms, rakes, and hammers) to improve your grip.

KEEP PAINT LOOKING SPIFFY

Protect the paint on vulnerable areas of your bicycle—such as where
your lock rubs against the frame—by wrapping inner tubes around
those areas.

EMERGENCY HEADLIGHT
If your bike light dies and you’ve got a flashlight handy, fish a spare
inner tube out of your bag. Cut a piece that is 2 inches (5 cm) longer
than your flashlight, then make a hole near each of the tube’s ends.
Run the tube under your handlebar so that it is perpendicular to the
bar, and thread the flashlight through the holes with the light pointing
forward. Turn it on and go.

BUNGEE CORDS IN A PINCH

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Cut a sliver of inner tube and use it as a zip tie or bungee cord to lash
whatever’s loose.

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227 SHRED ON A FAN-PROPELLED
SKATEBOARD

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Why cruise on a regular skateboard when you
can blast by on this model?
Fast is cool, but few would disagree that faster is even better. This
skateboard build has you adding the engine, propeller, and remote-control
transmitter from a model airplane (which you can pick up as independent
parts in a hobby shop, or salvage from a spare model plane near you) for a
version that’d make even Marty McFly jealous.

MATERIALS
4½ feet (1.35 m) of 1-by-10-inch (2.5-by-25-cm) wood
Jigsaw
Sandpaper
Drill
Adhesive-backed skateboard grip tape
Skateboard trucks and risers with wheels
Screws and washers
Remote-control transmitter with bundled receiver and servo
Wire
Battery for transmitter
OS 1.60 FX model airplane engine
950-cc gas tank and gas
Hose clamp
Fan cage
Three-blade propeller
Standard glow starter with meter
12-volt starter motor

STEP 1 Blow the template at right up to size so it’s about 4½ feet (1.35
m) in length and trace it onto your piece of wood. Use a jigsaw to cut out
the board, and sand the edges so they’re splinter-free. Drill holes so you
can mount the trucks and risers.

STEP 2 Cut out and sand the two pieces from the remaining wood that
will serve as mounting planks for the fan, gas tank, and engine, as well as
create a compartment for the electronics. Make the mounting planks tall
enough so that they’ll provide clearance for your fan model’s cage,
keeping it off the ground and the skateboard bottom.

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STEP 3 Apply adhesive-backed grip tape in your desired colors to the
board and mounting compartment pieces.

STEP 4 Screw the trucks and risers to the board using the predrilled
holes.

STEP 5 Screw the two mounting planks securely into the back end of the
board from the underside, after predrilling holes for them with a smaller
bit. Cut another piece of scrap wood the width of the space between the
mounting planks. Screw it in between the planks near their tops as a roof
for the compartment that will house the electronics.

STEP 6 Wrap a short piece of wire around the servo’s horn (the part
where the arm screws on), and wrap the other end around the engine’s
throttle lever.

STEP 7 Plug the servo’s connector into the receiver, then hook the battery
to the receiver. Next mount the engine above the electronics compartment,
screwing through the engine mount holes into the tops of the mounting
planks. Secure the servo, receiver, and battery inside.

STEP 8 Screw a hose clamp to the outside of the mounting planks, then
tighten the hose clamp around the gas tank to mount it. Connect the gas
tank to the engine.

STEP 9 Unscrew the cage from a fan and insert the propeller. Slide the
propeller onto the engine, tightening the propeller’s bolt, then secure the
cage onto the electronics compartment’s roof with screws and washers.

STEP 10 Plug the glow starter into the engine’s glow plug and use the
starter motor to rotate the propeller. Once it’s started up, set aside the
starter motor, remove the glow plug, and give the remote to someone you
trust. Zoom off.

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A MOTORIZED SKATEBOARD
If you ever see a grown man whizzing by on a skateboard doing 20
miles per hour (32 km/h), that would be John Carnett, and in case
you don’t get a good look, his ride is a souped-up, motorized board
he built from the ground up. He wanted to create a skateboard that
would be superior to commercial models—a fast, hot-looking board
that ran on all terrains. He cut an aluminum deck and bent the ends
and side rails, then he outfitted it with axles and 8-inch (20-cm)
knobby tires. Then there was the matter of installing a disc-braking
system and a 500-watt electric motor. It’s the sweetest ride on the
road—or off it.

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228 GIVE YOUR MOTORCYLE A
FUTURISTIC VIBE

Ride straight out of the movie TRON with this

illuminated motorcycle trick.
MATERIALS
Motorcycle
Flexible LED light strips
Heavy-duty tape

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Wire strippers
Two clamp connectors
Soldering iron and solder
18-gauge black wire
18-gauge red wire
Zip ties
On/off switch

STEP 1 Locate your motorcycle’s battery—it’s probably under the seat.

STEP 2 Place the LED strips where you want them along your
motorcycle’s frame. If the strips themselves are not adhesive, secure them
with tape, and run the wires through the frame body toward the battery.

STEP 3 Using the wire strippers, strip some of the insulation from the
ends of all the LED strips’ wires. Place the negative wires into a clamp
connector and the positive wires into another clamp connector.

STEP 4 Solder the black 18-gauge wire to the clamp housing the black
LED wires, and the red 18-gauge wire to the clamp housing the red wires.

STEP 5 Gather the wires and secure them with a zip tie.

STEP 6 Mount the on/off switch somewhere you can easily reach while
you’re riding. Strip the ends of the black and red 18-gauge wires. Connect
the red 18-gauge wire to the on/off switch, soldering on another length of
18-gauge red wire to extend to the battery.

STEP 7 Connect the black 18-gauge wire to the battery’s negative

terminal and the red 18-gauge wire to the battery’s positive terminal.

STEP 8 Start your motorcycle, flip the switch into the “on” position, and
make sure all the LED strips light up—if they don’t, check your
connections.

STEP 9 Suit up and ride off into an alternate reality.

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www.circuitmix.com
229 LIGHT UP YOUR MOTORCYCLE
HELMET
Make your helmet extra safe—and extra cool, too
—with conductive paint.
MATERIALS
Motorcycle helmet
Fine sandpaper
Paper towel
Pencil
Masking tape
Conductive paint
Paintbrush
Wire strippers
Electrical wire
Soldering iron and solder
9-volt battery
9-volt battery snap
On/off switch
Epoxy
Wooden sticks for mixing and applying epoxies
LEDs
Conductive epoxy
Clear spray enamel

STEP 1 Sand the surface of your helmet where your design will go and
then wipe it with a damp paper towel.

STEP 2 Draw a circuit directly onto the helmet. Trace components (such
as the LEDs, battery, and on/off switch) onto the helmet and mark
positives and negatives.

STEP 3 Mask out the area around your circuit to contain the conductive
paint.

STEP 4 Paint inside the tape, mapping your circuit. Make sure to stir the
paint thoroughly and often, as the particles tend to settle. Apply multiple

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coats, if needed.

STEP 5 Let the paint dry for a few minutes and carefully remove the
masking tape. Then let dry for 24 hours.

STEP 6 Snap the battery snap onto the 9-volt battery.Strip the ends of two
pieces of wire and solder positive and negative leads to the snap’s positive
and negative ports. Then solder these leads to the positive and negative
terminals of your on/off switch.

STEP 7 Use wooden sticks to mix and apply epoxy, then affix the on/off
switch and battery to the helmet. Let dry.

STEP 8 Trim the leads of the LEDs. Use conductive epoxy to attach the
LEDs where you want them, and then affix the switch wires.

STEP 9 Let dry for 24 hours, then seal over and around the conductive
paint with epoxy to waterproof.

STEP 10 Tape off areas of your helmet you want to protect—like fabric
parts or LED bulbs—and spray your helmet with clear spray enamel.

STEP 11 To turn the lights on, flip the on/off switch.

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230 THE VROOMING HOT-ROD HAULER
An old logging truck is transformed into a sleek
street racer.
Randy Grubb couldn’t get it off his mind. For years he had been driving
past an old logger’s place near his home in rural Oregon, and one of the

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long-haul trucks in the man’s yard kept catching his attention. In late
2008, Grubb finally stopped for a closer look, and the toothless, cigar-
chomping trucker let him rev the engine. He was sold, but he had a big
change in mind: He was going to transform it into a hot rod.

The 49-year-old Grubb had built a number of other vehicles out of

forgotten engines in his backyard shop. But making a dragster out of this
ancient truck—a 1965 Peterbilt Model 351 with a giant 12-cylinder, two-
stroke diesel engine—was unlike any of his past jobs. The engine hadn’t
been used in a decade, so he found a diesel mechanic to help him tune it
up, replaced the original 13-speed transmission with a four-speed
automatic normally used in Greyhound buses, installed new fuel lines, and
then polished every cubic inch. Next came the body. He shortened the
truck’s grille by 10.5 inches (26.25 cm), took the front and rear axles from
another truck and narrowed them to hot-rod scale, and machined and
welded all the connective hardware to complete the transformation.

Grubb refers to the car—dubbed Piss’d Off Pete because it’s a Peterbilt
with attitude—as an aluminum sculpture. In fact, the vehicle will most
likely soon be in a private collection. But he hardly treats it like a museum
piece. As soon as he was finished, he drag-raced it at more than 100 miles
an hour (160 km/h).

OFF THE SCRAP HEAP

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 Piss’d Off Pete runs on a 12-cylinder engine Grubb calls “the biggest,
baddest diesel ever made.” Just how much did making it cost him?
$100,000.

231 MOUNT A RAD HOOD ORNAMENT

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STEP 1 Use epoxy to glue a plastic figurine of your choosing to a circular
magnet with a center bore.

STEP 2 If your car has a hood ornament, remove it. Thread a screw
through the magnet of your new one and turn to secure the screw to the
ornament.

STEP 3 Screw it onto your car’s hood in the old ornament’s hole, or just
use the magnet to hold it in place.

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232 HANG A DIY AIR FRESHENER
STEP 1 Cut out a T-shirt image you like and trace it onto a sheet of fabric
softener and a piece of fabric.

STEP 2 Staple the dryer sheet in between the two pieces of fabric.

STEP 3 Punch a hole in the top and insert a rubber band; knot the band to
secure it.

STEP 4 Hang it up in your car to cover up stink.

233 BLACK OUT YOUR TAILLIGHTS

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STEP 1 Remove your taillight lenses by unscrewing the bolts holding
them onto the car.

STEP 2 Clean them, and then cover the lights entirely with strips of
masking tape, pressing the strips into the grooves with a pen.

STEP 3 Draw your design onto the masking tape.

STEP 4 Cut out your design by tracing your drawing with a razor blade or
a craft knife. Remove the excess tape.

STEP 5 Put tape around the light’s edges.

STEP 6 Lightly sand the unmasked surfaces.

STEP 7 Spray the taillight with black paint in quick passes. Do two to
three coats, allowing them to dry in between.

STEP 8 Apply a coat of clear spraypaint. Gently remove the tape.

STEP 9 Reinstall your badder-than-before taillights and hit the streets

(after investigating how your local law enforcement will feel about them).

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234 INSTALL AIR HORNS IN YOUR CAR
STEP 1 Open up your hood and detach the battery’s negative terminal
with a wrench.

STEP 2 Locate the factory-issued horn at the front of the engine and
disconnect the power harness from it, starting with the ground wire. (The
power harness is the bundle of wires that keeps the horn juiced, and it will
power your new horn and air compressor.)

STEP 3 Remove the old horn from the mount. Using the brackets that
came with your air horn kit, mount your new horns in the same place as
the factory-issued horn. Aim the new horns slightly downward.

STEP 4 Find a clear spot under the hood and along the firewall (the sheet
metal that separates the engine from the passenger section). Mount the air
compressor here using the mounting bolts that came with the kit.

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STEP 5 Connect the wiring harness’s hot wire and the air compressor’s
hot wire to a relay.

STEP 6 Ground the relay’s ground wire to a bolt, then connect the relay’s
hot wire to the car battery.

STEP 7 Run a tube from the compressor to the horns.

STEP 8 Reconnect the negative terminal to complete the circuit. Let those
bad boys blast.

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235 FEND OFF FENDER BENDERS WITH A
SONIC DISTANCE SENSOR

Back up with confidence thanks to a device that

beeps when you’re about to crash.
MATERIALS
Ping ultrasonic distance sensor
Electrical wire
Arduino Uno
Buzzer
Epoxy

STEP 1 Wire the Ping sensor to your Arduino according to the circuitry
diagram.

STEP 2 To hook up the buzzer, wire its positive end to the Arduino’s pin
8, and the negative end to a ground pin.

STEP 3 Load up the Arduino code for the Ping sensor, which you can find
at www.popsci.com/thebigbookofhacks.

STEP 4 Mount the sensor on the back of your car with epoxy, running the
wires through the trunk to the inside of the car.

STEP 5 Mount the buzzer with epoxy somewhere inside the car where
you’ll be able to hear it.

STEP 6 When the sensor comes within 1 foot (30 cm) of an obstacle, the
buzzer will sound to warn you. You may now parallel park without fear.

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236 HACK AN EMERGENCY USB CHARGER
On the lam without your car charger? Splice
some wires and be on your way.
MATERIALS
USB cable for your device
Knife
Any 5-volt car cigarette lighter adapter
Tape

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STEP 1 Cut the USB end off the cable for your device and strip the
insulation. You’ll use the black and red wires to connect to the adapter.
Twist together the other two wires.

STEP 2 Cut off the end of the cigarette lighter adapter that does not plug
into the cigarette lighter. Use the knife to strip the insulation to reveal the
black and red wires.

STEP 3 Twist the two red wires together and the two black wires together.
Wrap tape around the joints to insulate them.

STEP 4 Plug it in and charge up your phone in the car.

237 SHIFT WITH A CUSTOM GEAR KNOB

STEP 1 Pry off your old shift knob. Measure the size of the knob’s mount.

STEP 2 Choose an object to use as a new shift knob (resin, wood, and
plastic work well).

STEP 3 Drill a hole in the object’s bottom to fit the knob mount.

STEP 4 Glue your new knob onto your shifter using epoxy. Upshift in
style.

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238 BUILD A BED IN YOUR VAN

Get on the road again with a mod that makes

your van at least as comfy as that Best Western.
MATERIALS
Sweet van
Tape measure
Paper and pencil
Storage bins, if desired

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Two sheets of 1 ¼ -inch (3-cm) plywood
2x4s
Wood screws
Screwdriver
Jigsaw
Mattress

STEP 1 Measure the space you have available in the back of your van,
accounting for any obstructions, such as wheel wells. You may want to
remove the last row of seats to provide more space.

STEP 2 Make a plan for a bed frame based on your van’s measurements,
and include a flat bottom, two risers that lift the bed off the van floor, and
a flat top. If you want to use the space under the bed for storage, figure
storage bins into your plan.

STEP 3 Construct your risers. Lay out a long 2x4 and attach four shorter
2x4s perpendicular to it, spaced evenly along it. Reinforce the riser by
doubling up your 2x4s as necessary. Repeat to build a second riser. (Use
screws instead of nails if you want to be able to deconstruct and remove
the bed easily.)

STEP 4 Use a jigsaw to customize the bottom of the bed, cutting out holes
for any brackets or wheel wells that would keep the bottom from sitting
flat in your van.

STEP 5 Attach the two risers to the sheet of plywood that will serve as the
bed’s bottom, then slide the bottom into your van. You may need to tilt it
to get it inside.

STEP 6 Attach evenly spaced crosspieces to the risers.

STEP 7 Use a jigsaw to trim the top of the bed to avoid obstructions as
needed, then screw it to the crosspieces.

STEP 8 Add a mattress or other padding and slide your storage bins
underneath the bed.

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239 RIG A CAMPING SHOWER
MATERIALS
Hose
12-volt output pump
Two PVC elbows
Small-diameter PVC pipe
Showerhead
12-volt car lighter
Bucket of water

STEP 1 Attach a small piece of hose to the outlet on a 12-volt output

pump.

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STEP 2 Add a PVC elbow fitting to the hose, and connect a length of
small-diameter PVC pipe. Run the pipe to another elbow, then screw a
showerhead to the second elbow’s end.

STEP 3 Wire the pump to a 12-volt car lighter plug, and drop the pump in
a bucket of water.

STEP 4 Hang up your shower to a tree near you, securing it however you
see fit. Enjoy showering outdoors.

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240 KIT OUT A SOLAR-CHARGING
MESSENGER BAG

Mod a basic bag and charge your gadgets with

the sun’s rays.
MATERIALS
Messenger bag
Scissors
Grommeting kit
Clear vinyl sheeting
Superglue
Photovoltaic panel
78M05 voltage regulator
Project box
0.47F 50-volt electrolytic capacitor
0.1F 50-volt tantalum capacitor
Electrical wire
Soldering iron and solder
USB cable with female connector
Digital multimeter
A device to charge that connects to the USB cable

STEP 1 Use the grommeting kit to punch holes in your bag. (These holes
are for the wires connecting the photovoltaic panel to the voltage regulator
and your device.) Reinforce the holes with grommets.

STEP 2 Use clear vinyl sheeting to create a pocket for the photovoltaic
panel. Glue it in place over the grommets so it’s on the bag’s outside.

STEP 3 Mount the voltage regulator inside your project box, then follow
the circuitry diagram to hook up the capacitors and voltage regulator.
Solder these connections.

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STEP 4 Snip off the male connector from the USB cable. Open the cable
end and separate the four wires: red, black, green, and white. Connect the
red wire to the output lead of the 78M05 voltage regulator and the black
wire to the voltage regulator’s ground lead.

STEP 5 With the photovoltaic panel in the clear pocket, connect its
positive terminal to the input lead of the voltage regulator. Connect its
negative terminal to the voltage regulator’s ground lead, threading the
wires through the holes in the bag.

STEP 6 Place the photovoltaic panel in direct sunlight and test the voltage
readings with a digital multimeter at four points: the photovoltaic panel
terminals, the voltage regulator input, the voltage regulator output, and the
USB pin 1 + 4. The readings at the first two points should both be
approximately 7 to 8 volts. The readings at the last two points should be
exactly 5.15 volts.

STEP 7 If everything checks out, hook up a suitable device and charge

out there.

241 STAY COOL ON THE GO WITH AD HOC

A/C

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If you’re camping, you’ve already got a cooler.
Hook up a fan to feel the breeze.
MATERIALS
Styrofoam cooler
Saw
Ice
Portable fan

STEP 1 Cut a hole in the lid of the cooler; it should be as large as the
fan’s face.

STEP 2 Cut holes in the side of the cooler. They should face in the
general direction in which you’d like the cool air to blow.

STEP 3 Add ice to the cooler and replace the lid.

STEP 4 Place the fan facedown over the hole in the lid, and turn it on.

STEP 5 Pull up a chair and swelter no more.

242 REFILL A TINY TOOTHPASTE TUBE

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STEP 1 Detach the tops of two toothpaste tubes and place them together
with their closed ends touching.

STEP 2 Use a ring of Sugru to attach the closed ends. Wait 24 hours for it
to dry.

STEP 3 Drill a hole through the center of the attached tops. Brush out any
shards of plastic.

STEP 4 Attach a full large tube of toothpaste to one side, and an empty
travel-size tube to the other. Squeeze to refill.

243 ASSEMBLE A COLLAPSIBLE TRAVEL

HANGER
Because wrinkled clothes are for suckers, but so
are hanging bags.
MATERIALS
Wire hanger

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Wire cutters
3 feet (90 cm) of ½-inch (1.25-cm) PVC
4 feet (1.2 m) of rope
Pliers

STEP 1 Measure the length of each side of a wire hanger. Cut three
sections of PVC pipe, sized to match those measurements.

STEP 2 Cut the hook off the wire hanger, slicing about 1 inch (2.5 cm)
below the twisted base of the hook on either side. Use pliers to bend the
two ends up at the base.

STEP 3 Line up the PVC sections so they match the layout of the original
hanger, then thread the rope through all three sections, leaving enough
slack so that the hanger will be able to collapse—about 6 inches (15 cm).
Tie a knot in the rope.

STEP 4 Thread the base of the hook through the rope at the top of the
hanger, using pliers to close the upturned ends around the rope.

STEP 5 To collapse the completed hanger, just fold it up—if it doesn’t

fold, use a longer piece of rope.

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244 GIVE YOUR SUITCASE THE GIFT OF
WHEELS
Forget lugging that luggage—upgrade it and let
it roll itself to the terminal.
MATERIALS
Metal plate
Four casters
Suitcase
Marker
Drill
Grommet kit
Nuts and bolts
Rubber washers

STEP 1 Choose a metal plate that fits the side of the suitcase you’re
modifying. Decide where you’d like the casters to go, then line up the tops
of the casters on your metal plate and mark their positions. Also mark a
few sets of holes along each edge of the plate—you’ll use these to secure
the plate to your bag.

STEP 2 Drill your marks, using a drill bit that matches the size of your
bolts.

STEP 3 Place the drilled metal plate in its final position on your suitcase.
Use a pen to mark the position of each hole.

STEP 4 Using a grommet kit, punch a hole through your suitcase at each
point you marked. Place a grommet on either side of each hole, then
hammer the two pieces together using the equipment in your kit. Repeat
until you’ve protected each hole with a grommet.

STEP 5 Line up the plate again, and use nuts and bolts to connect the
plate to the bag. Then connect the casters—the bolts for these should run
through the plate and into the bag. To add extra weatherproofing, use
rubber washers on the inside of all bolts.

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245 PACK YOUR RAZOR SAFELY
No more reaching into your toiletries bag and
coming out with a bloody fingertip.
MATERIALS
Binder clip
Razor
Rubber band

STEP 1 Fold back the binder clip’s arms and open it.

STEP 2 Insert the head of your razor and close the clip, folding down the
arms. Use a rubber band to secure the binder clip in place over the razor.

STEP 3 Pack your razor without fear of cutting yourself when you
unpack.

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246 TAKE AERIAL PHOTOS WITH A
WEATHER BALLOON

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Keep your drone envy in check with a rig that
snaps shots from the sky.
MATERIALS
Digital camera
3,500 feet (1,070 m) of heavy-duty nylon string
Gaffers tape
Large plastic bottle
Box cutter
Weather balloon
Helium
Rubber band

STEP 1 Choose a camera with a large SD card (at least 4 GB) and a
continuous setting.

STEP 2 Make a 3-foot (90-cm) loop of string, wrap it around your

camera, and knot it securely against the camera body, with the excess
creating another loop.

STEP 3 Secure the string around your camera with gaffers tape. When
you dangle it by the loop, your camera should be supported on either side
of the lens. (Don’t skimp on tape and buy the cheap stuff, or you’ll pay for
it later.)

STEP 4 Cut a large plastic bottle in half. Put the camera inside the top
half of the bottle, lens facing down, with the loop of string sticking out
through the neck of the bottle.

STEP 5 Cut out two 8-by-2½-inch (20-by-6.25-cm) plastic strips from the
plastic bottle’s bottom half. Tape them to the top half of the bottle.
(They’ll help stabilize the camera during flight.)

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STEP 6 Inflate the weather balloon with helium, close it up, and tie the
string to the balloon’s opening. (If you don’t have an especially large
balloon, you can make your own by taping two Mylar sleeping bags
together and inflating them, then taping them together.)

STEP 7 Attach the camera in its protective cover just below the balloon
using the loop of string that’s secured to the camera. Tie the 3,500-foot
(1,070-m) string to the balloon as well. The weather balloon should lift the
camera easily.

STEP 8 Set your camera to continuous mode and use a rubber band to
hold down the camera’s trigger. Allow the balloon to rise quickly, letting
out the string carefully to avoid tangles.

STEP 9 Head in the direction of the area you’d like to document from
above. Avoid trees and other structures that could tangle your string.
When you’re done, just pull the balloon back in by its string.

STEP 10 Use digital photo-stitching software to create huge, detailed

maps of your ‘hood.

247 MAKE A MINI HOVERCRAFT

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STEP 1 Remove the push-up cap from any sports-drink bottle.

STEP 2 Glue the bottle cap to the top of a CD. Make sure the valve can
still open and shut.

STEP 3 Glue a balloon to the cap. Blow it up from underneath, and watch
it soar above the floor.

248 LAUNCH A MINI ROCKET

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Combine simple household items to make a
rocket propulsion system.
MATERIALS
Paper
Pencil
Scissors
Glue
Alka-Seltzer tablets
Water
Empty film canister

STEP 1 Design your rocket, drawing it on paper. A simple cylinder, nose

cone, and a pair of fins will suffice. It should stand around 6 inches (15
cm) tall and be approximately 1 ½ inches (3.75 cm) in diameter.

STEP 2 Cut out your rocket components (cylinder, nose cone, and fins)
and glue them together.

STEP 3 Open the film canister and drop one-half of an Alka-Seltzer tablet
into it.

STEP 4 Fill the canister half full of water and snap the canister cap into
place. Slide the rocket over the cap, place the assembly cap-down, and get
back. Watch the rocket blast off.

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249 Build a Better Canoe Paddle

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Because tech geeks can be wilderness geeks, too.
MATERIALS
¾-by-20-by-8-inch (1.9-by-50-by-20-cm) piece of wood board
Keyhole saw
Wood glue
Two rectangular wooden strips, 5 feet (1.5 m) long and ¾ by 1 ¼ inch (1.9 by 3 cm) thick
Rubber bands
Block plane
Sandpaper
Wood finish
Steel wool

STEP 1 Make the paddle blades by cutting the wood board diagonally
lengthwise, then remove a triangle with a 1-inch (2.5-cm) base from a
corner of each board as shown below. Reserve these for later use.

STEP 2 Use wood glue to connect the two wood strips together, forming
the shaft. Hold the strips together with rubber bands and let them dry.

STEP 3 Glue the two paddle halves to the shaft as shown, aligning them
carefully. Glue the two triangles in place as the handle grips. Again, hold
these parts in place with rubber bands while the glue dries.

STEP 4 Once all the glue is dry, remove the rubber bands. Use the
keyhole saw to trim around the blade, contouring its shape as desired.

STEP 5 Use the block plane to contour the center of each blade half for a
slightly concave paddle blade, and to shape the shaft and handle.

STEP 6 To round the shaft, hold the grip end in one hand. Slowly rotate
the paddle so that the block plane shapes it uniformly on all sides.

STEP 7 Sand the paddle to smooth it and apply wood finish. Let this coat
dry before smoothing with steel wool and applying additional coats.

STEP 8 After that last coat of varnish has dried, hit the river or lake and
paddle off into the sunset.

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250 UPGRADE YOUR KAYAK INTO A
SAILBOAT

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Pull that old kayak out of the garage and set it
sailing.
MATERIALS
Aluminum sheeting 1-inch (2.5-cm) PVC pipe
Epoxy
1¼-inch (3-cm) PVC pipe
Drill
Polyethylene kayak
1¼-inch (3-cm) polyethylene irrigation pipe
Plastic welder
Scrap polyethylene plastic
Nylon rope
Boat tarp
Grommeting kit
PVC elbow
Two three-way connectors
Dock ties

STEP 1 Cut the aluminum sheeting to create a rudder and centerboard.

The centerboard should be a 1-by-1-foot (30-by-30-cm) square, and the
rudder should be about 1 foot (30 cm) in length and 6 inches (15 cm) in
height.

STEP 2 Attach the centerboard to a length of 1-inch (2.5-cm) PVC pipe

using epoxy.

STEP 3 Make a hole in the kayak’s floor immediately in front of the seat.
The hole should be large enough for the 1-inch (2.5-cm) pipe. Insert the
centerboard pipe into this hole from the bottom, then use a plastic welder
and scrap polyethylene to secure the pipe to the kayak’s floor.

STEP 4 For the rudder mount, use a section of 1 ¼-inch (3-cm)

polyethylene pipe that’s cut to approximately the same height as the tail
end of your kayak. Weld the rudder mount onto the kayak’s back.

STEP 5 Cut a piece of 1-inch (2.5-cm) PVC pipe so it’s a little longer
than the rudder mount. Epoxy the aluminum rudder to this pipe and slide

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it through the rudder mount.

STEP 6 Cap off the rudder pipe with a PVC elbow, then attach a 1-inch
(2.5-cm) pipe to the rudder pipe. Drill a hole in the end of this pipe.

STEP 7 Cut two short pieces of polyethylene pipe to use as rudder control
handles and make holes in them. Thread a long piece of rope through the
handles and through the hole in the pipe attached to the rudder.

STEP 8 For the sail, cut three long pieces of 1-inch (2.5-cm) PVC pipe to
the size of your boat tarp and attach them together in a U shape with three-
way connectors. Use the grommeting kit to make grommets down the
tarp’s edges. Attach the sail to the pipes by stringing rope through the
grommets and around the pipe frame. Leave a piece of pipe extending that
will fit into the mast base.

STEP 9 For the mast base, weld a piece of 1¼-inch (3-cm) PVC pipe to
the floor of the kayak with scrap polyethylene. To secure the mast farther
up, weld both ends of a half-ring shape that fits the 1¼-inch (3-cm) pipe to
the inside front of the kayak. Fit the mast into the base.

STEP 10 Attach lengths of rope to the sail and secure the ropes to the
kayak with dock ties. Sail away.

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251 THE INCREDIBLE AMPHIBIOUS TANK
Half boat, half car, all adventure.
Avid hunter Stan Hewitt wanted to tackle the prime duck habitat of the
Alaskan tundra, an area hard to access using regular vehicles. He knew he
needed a tank to do it—one with speed and maneuverability that would be
able to handle the water currents there.

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Hewitt designed a 21-foot (6.4-m) craft with two wide, tanklike rubber
treads that can pivot 180 degrees when afloat. When on the ground, the
treads spread the vehicle’s weight over a large surface area, improving
traction and exerting minimal pressure on the ground. Hewitt installed a
simple hydraulic pump to lift and lower these treads vertically in and out
of the water. In sea mode, the Chevy TrailBlazer engine drives an
outboard propeller. In land mode, the treads drop so the engine can muscle
the craft up onto shore. His creation is the first-ever amphibious vehicle
with a fully retractable drive assembly—one that needs just 18 seconds to
go from sea cruiser to land rover.

The craft can reach speeds of up to 30 miles per hour (48 km/h) and
effortlessly trek through mud flats, bogs, rivers, ice, snow, and lakes—and
do it with a 1,500-pound (680-kg) load. There’s room for a crew of five
and all the gear they need for search and rescue, patrol, geological
surveying, and other fieldwork. Ironically, though, Hewitt hasn’t gotten
around to taking it duck hunting yet.

SEA MONSTER
Hewitt increased the cab’s ability to resist water by adding foam
sandwiched between layers of aluminum to its panels.

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252 HACK AN OVERSIZE AIR HOCKEY
PUCK
STEP 1 Cut a hole in the top of a smoke-detector case. Make sure the
hole is large enough to mount the propeller and motor from a remote-
controlled plane or helicopter.

STEP 2 To protect the smoke detector’s outer surface, coat it completely

(except for the bottom rim and the hole) with rubberized foam coating.

STEP 3 Connect six AAA batteries in series using aluminum-foil duct

tape. Glue the cells onto a round piece of plastic with ventilation holes,
making sure that the weight is evenly distributed.

STEP 4 Wire the motor, an on/off switch, and the battery together, and
attach the cap to the smaller end of the smoke detector with hot glue.

STEP 5 Place the larger end on the floor. The air should be sucked up
through the detector vents.

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STEP 6 Enjoy air hockey beyond the confines of the tabletop version.

253 SCORE WITH PING-PONG PADDLE

GLOVES
STEP 1 Using a handsaw, cut the handles off two Ping-Pong paddles.

STEP 2 Cut two pieces of plywood into wedges. The widest part should
measure 3 inches (7.5 cm) in width; the narrowest should measure 1 inch
(2.5 cm) in width. Both should be 4 inches (10 cm) long.

STEP 3 Drill a hole in each of the two plywood pieces, one that’s large
enough for your thumb, and one that’s large enough for your fingertips to
protrude.

STEP 4 Sandwich the wood pieces between the paddles so that the glove
fits your dominant hand and the thumb and finger holes align. Secure with
wood glue.

STEP 5 Dominate at the table.

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254 ASSEMBLE A PVC-PIPE SOCCER GOAL
STEP 1 Use a handsaw to cut twelve lengths of 1½-inch (3.75-cm) PVC
pipe so that you have four 2-foot (60-cm) sections, four 6-foot (1.8-m)
sections, two 8-foot (2.4-m) sections, and two 10-foot (3-m) sections.

STEP 2 Put the goal together without glue first, using six 1½-inch (3.75-
cm) rounded PVC elbows and four 1½-inch (3.75-cm) T-style PVC
connectors. Make sure that all the pieces fit together correctly.

STEP 3 To glue, pull apart one joint at a time and spread PVC glue on the
inside of the connector and the outside of the pipe. Reconnect the joint. (If
you want to keep your soccer goal portable, leave a few joints unglued.)

STEP 4 Once you’ve glued all the joints, leave the structure to set.

STEP 5 To make the net, wrap netting around the goal and cut it to size,
leaving a bit of extra netting around the edges. Attach the net using zip
ties wrapped around the frame every 6 inches (15 cm).

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STEP 6 Find a goalie to stand in front of your soccer goal, and get
kicking.

255 TRANSFORM A BIKE INTO A B-BALL

HOOP
STEP 1 Detach the entire front section of the bicycle frame, from the
handlebars down to the fork.

STEP 2 Adjust the handlebars to a horizontal angle, then mount the

detached section of the frame to a large piece of wood using three U-
clamps: one directly under the handlebars, two at the fork’s top.

STEP 3 To use an old bicycle wheel for the hoop, remove the tire and clip
off the spokes with wire cutters, leaving the hoop empty in the middle.

STEP 4 Set the hoop in the center of the handlebars, then use hose clamps
to attach it. Make sure that the hoop rests parallel to the ground when the
backboard is vertical.

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STEP 5 Attach a net using zip ties or wire.

STEP 6 Shoot some hoops.

256 SERVE UP A TENNIS BALL

This is one piece of sporting equipment that’s
useful both on and off the court.

STEALTHY SHOOTER
Poke a hole in a tennis ball and fill it with water for an instant squirt
gun.

SUPER GRIP

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Slice a tennis ball in half and use one half as a grip to twist off pesky
stuck lids on jars.

HAMMER TIME
Protect surfaces while you hammer nails by cutting an X into the ball
and sliding the head of the hammer inside it.

LIGHTBULB MOMENT
Got a broken lightbulb that you need to remove? With the light’s
switch and breaker turned off, clear the shards away from the bulb,
press the tennis ball against the socket, and unscrew with the ball
protecting your hand.

DOOR STOPPER
If you’ve ever had a doorknob smash through a wall when someone
flung the door open, you know it can really hurt your chances of
getting your apartment security deposit back. Cut a hole in a tennis
ball and put it over the doorknob—it’ll help keep your drywall intact.

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257 Turn Your Backyard into a Badminton
Court
Badminton—it’s the gentleman’s tennis. Set up
your own court and show that birdie who’s boss.
MATERIALS
Shovel
Landscaper’s rake
2x4 boards
Topsoil
Sand
Chalk line marker
Court divider net
Posts for the net

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STEP 1 Identify a spot on your land where there’s room to build the court.
Mark off a 20-by-44-foot (6-by-13.2-m) rectangle, allowing for a little
extra room around the edges.

STEP 2 Use a landscaper’s rake to level off this area, and also to create a
slight slope. The whole court should slope 4 inches (10 cm) toward one
end and 1 inch (2.5 cm) toward one side for drainage.

STEP 3 Use a shovel to excavate the area to a depth of 3 inches (7.5 cm),
and then set in 2x4 boards along the edges as borders.

STEP 4 Mix together the topsoil and sand, and fill in the area with the
mixture. Use the rake to smooth it out.

STEP 5 Mark the boundaries of the court with a chalk line marker
according to the diagram.

STEP 6Drive posts into the ground on either side of the court’s center
line. Tie the net to the posts so that it hangs at a height of 5 feet (1.5 m) in
the center of the court.

STEP 7If desired, set up lights around the court to enable nighttime play.

STEP 8 Grab a racket and start practicing your backhand.

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258 MAKE A MINI-GOLF COURSE
Practice your swing on a Pebble Beach course
you designed yourself.
MATERIALS
¾-inch (1.9-cm) medium- density fiberboard
Deck balusters
Craft knife
Wood glue
Drill with 4-inch (10-cm) hole saw
Green felt
Dropcloth
Spray adhesive
PVC pipe fitting
Composite wood balusters
Artificial turf

STEP 1 Sketch out a diagram of the course, marking any obstacles you
want to add. The materials you’ll need will depend on this design, so be
sure to measure everything out before beginning your build.

STEP 2 Cut a sheet of medium-density fiberboard to size according to

your diagram. You may need several sheets to create a long or irregularly
shaped course.

STEP 3 Line up deck balusters along each edge of the sheet, cutting them
to size as necessary. Use wood glue to hold the balusters in place, then
allow the structure to dry.

STEP 4 Once the balusters are set, use a drill fitted with a 4-inch (10-cm)
hole saw to cut a hole in the fiberboard sheet, placed according to your
diagram. This will be the course’s hole.

STEP 5 Cut green felt so it will cover the fiberboard sheet and wrap over
the balusters.

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STEP 6 Set the fiberboard sheet down on a dropcloth, balusters down,
and spray the top with adhesive. Spray the felt with the adhesive, too, and
let both pieces dry.

STEP 7 Place the fiberboard sheet top-down on the center of the felt, and
spray more adhesive on the balusters and around the hole. After this has
dried, wrap the excess felt over the balusters, trimming as needed.

STEP 8 Slice the felt inside the hole into sections, and fold it back so that
the hole is clear.

STEP 9 Flip the sheet over, cut a PVC pipe fitting to just fill the space
between the top of the hole and the floor, and insert it into the hole as a
liner.

STEP 10 Line the edges of the course with lengths of composite wood
baluster.

STEP 11 Build obstacles and use artificial turf for rough.

STEP 12 Hit the links.

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BATTER UP
Frank Barnes, a 30-year-old industrial artist, dreamed up this 265-pound
(120-kg) quasi-human-shaped robot made from a jumble of salvaged auto
parts, steel piping, and pneumatic hoses for the sole purpose of belting
every fastball thrown its way. The Headless Batsman won’t make the
majors, but Barnes suggests another career option: “Put some wheels on it,
drive it around—I figure I can use it for security.”

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259 INSTALL AN AT-HOME ROCK WALL

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We can’t all have Mount Everest in our
backyards. But you can still get your climb on
with this rock wall.
MATERIALS
Tape measure
Stud finder
Pencil
¾-inch (1.9-cm) plywood
Saw
2x4s
Screws
2-inch (5-cm) drywall screws
⅜-inch (9.5-mm) T-nuts
Drill
Hammer
Nails
Handholds

STEP 1 Scout for a good wall. It absolutely must be load-bearing to

support the weight of your wall (and you on it!). Come up with a design
that will fit the space.

STEP 2 Use a stud finder to locate the studs in your wall, and then mark
them with a pencil. (You’ll be mounting your climbing wall alongside
your original wall, and you’ll want the studs of both walls to align.) Be
sure to mark the top of where you’d like your wall to end as well.

STEP 3 Cut your ¾-inch (1.9-cm) plywood to size based on your design.

STEP 4 Measure the height of your plywood, then subtract the widths of
the 2x4 plates you’ll be mounting on top and on bottom. Cut at least four

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studs to this height, then measure the width of your plywood and cut your
top and bottom plate to this width.

STEP 5 Screw the four studs into place on your bottom plate so that they
match the placement of the studs in your existing wall. Then screw on the
top plate.

STEP 6 Before attaching your plywood to the existing wall, place T-nuts
in the back of the plywood in a design of your choosing. This is where
your handholds will go.

STEP 7 Line up your plywood wall with the existing wall. Predrill holes
along the studs every 8 inches (20 cm) vertically and use long screws to
attach the plywood.

STEP 8 Once your wall is securely mounted, screw handholds into the T-
nut holes. (You can leave some T-nut holes empty and reposition or add
additional handholds later to change up your course.)

STEP 9 Release your inner Spider-Man.

260 HANG PVC FITNESS RINGS

Quit the gym but still get a workout with this
simple build.

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MATERIALS
Twine
1-inch (2.5-cm) PVC pipe
Sand
Duct tape
Baking sheet
Aluminum foil
Oven mitts
Paint cans
Heavy-duty nylon rope
Lashing straps

STEP 1Soak two 3-feet (90-cm) lengths of twine in water, then thread
them each through 2-foot (60-cm) lengths of PVC pipe, letting 6 inches
(15 cm) dangle from each end.

STEP 2 Fully cover one end of each pipe with duct tape, leaving the twine
sticking out. Fill each pipe with sand, then cover the other ends with tape.

STEP 3Set your oven to 200°F (93°C). Place the pipes on a foil-covered
baking sheet and heat them for 8 to 10 minutes.

STEP 4Using oven mitts, remove the pipes from the oven and wrap them
around old paint cans to mold them into a circular shape. Tie the ends of
the twine together to hold the pipe in this shape as it cools.

STEP 5 Once the pipes have cooled, remove the duct-tape caps, sand, and
twine. Loop a length of heavy-duty nylon rope twice through each pipe,
then tie the rope off with a square knot. Thread any excess rope back
through the pipe.

STEP 6Use lashing straps to hang the rings from a sturdy structure with
the knot at the top of each ring.

STEP 7 Start practicing your inverted cross.

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261 A TILTING PING-PONG TABLE THAT
THROWS OFF OPPONENTS
A group of young designers reinvent ping-pong.
Welcome to “swing pong.”
Internships are often mindless, coffee-fetching black holes of boredom.
But not at Syyn Labs, a Los Angeles collective that creates unusual
interactive art and science projects for commercials and music videos.
Last summer, student interns Hoon Oh, Robb Godshaw, and Jisu Choi
took it upon themselves to reinvent the sport of table tennis. Their project
could pass for an extra in Transformers: It’s part ping-pong table, part
machine, and so difficult to play that it reduces pros to the level of rank
amateurs.

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Oh came up with the idea of doing a ping-pong project because the game
is a staple of so many cultures around the globe, and is normally relatively
easy to play. They wanted to make the game more social than competitive,
so they eliminated the potential for humiliating one-sided contests by
building a table that tilts on demand and makes it tough for even highly
skilled players.

They started by scrounging for parts in the Syyn Labs warehouse. A

rectangular piece of Plexiglas that had once been used in an illuminated
dance floor became the tabletop. To drive the tilting surface, Godshaw
suggested using pneumatic pistons left over from a commercial for a
Google science fair. Choi worked on the drive system and other aspects of
the design, while Oh wrote software to control the pistons and switch the
table from level to off-kilter. The group found that getting the angles
correct was tricky. “We wanted to make it tilt at a dramatic angle but not
hit anybody in the jaw,” Godshaw says.

They were right about leveling gameplay—when table-tennis pro Adam

Bobrow visited Syyn Labs, he won his match by only a single point. In
fact, the game is such strange, absurd fun, Godshaw says, that competition
is an afterthought: “Most games never make it to nine.”

262 ORGANIZE CORDS ON THE GO

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STEP 1 Cut a sheet of foam into a dog-bone shape, then cut a slit into
each end.

STEP 2 Tuck your media player’s cord into the slit to secure it and wrap
the excess cord around the bone’s center.

STEP 3 Pump jams while you jog without having to jump rope over
cords.

263 RUN IN NO-SLIP SHOES

Experience the joy of added traction in the most
rugged terrain.
MATERIALS
Running shoes
Thirty sheet-metal screws ½ to ⅜ inch (1.25 to 9.5 mm), depending on thickness of shoe soles)
Drill
Clamps

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STEP 1 Decide how to distribute the screws on the sole of each shoe. Use
about 15 screws per shoe, scattered evenly between the front and back of
the sole. Mark where you want to place each one, avoiding any pockets of
air or gel in the sole.

STEP 2 Use a drill to insert the screws at your marks. You may need to
exert extra pressure on the drill for tough rubber—try clamping the shoe if
necessary. Tighten the screws only until the heads touch the rubber.

STEP 3 Test them out (outside, unless you don’t mind leaving gouges in
your floor). If the screws make you feel off balance, try removing or
adding some to compensate.

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264 THE MOT0RIZED EASY CHAIR
Getting to class just got a little faster.
Chris McIntosh’s first recliner was not your standard La-Z-Boy: It was
electric-powered and capable of going 15 miles per hour (24 km/h). After
he finished making it, he pulled a doughnut on his high school’s front
lawn, circled the gym during a pep rally, and ruled the street near his home
in Orinda, California.

McIntosh spent his youth building ad hoc vehicles (he once made a mini
hovercraft out of a leaf blower), so when the chair’s paltry electric motor
burned out, he decided it was time for a monster makeover. “I wanted to
go fast,” he says.

To upgrade the recliner, he removed the electric motor he had installed,

the motor’s controller, a pair of batteries, and other parts. He bought a 9-
horsepower, four-stroke dirt-bike engine, which fit perfectly in the space
beneath the seat, and welded on a fixed rear axle so that the engine could
power both rear wheels instead of just one. Bike engines need to be kick-
started, but the recliner’s lever snapped when he tried to use it. He welded
on a motorcycle kick-start lever instead.

Then there was the danger of the vehicle catching on fire. The dirt-bike
engine’s exhaust pipe got so hot that it sometimes glowed red and
threatened to set the upholstery (and McIntosh) ablaze. To avert disaster,
he rerouted the pipe, mounting it farther from the underside of the chair,
and covered it with fireproof wrap. His parents were pleased.

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Still, the first test drive was frightening: McIntosh immediately popped an
accidental 45-degree wheelie. He added 30 pounds (13.6 kg) of weights
near his feet to keep the front down, along with a roll bar and harness for
safety. The chair has no suspension at all. “The ride gets a bit bumpy,”
McIntosh says. “But then again, there’s plenty of padding.”

He says he has now mastered climbing hills and turning corners, although
he’s planning to add a rearview mirror to reduce the large blind spot
behind the backrest. The newly completed gas-powered version now goes
40 miles per hour (64 km/h) and, just as important, he says, “It sounds like
a Harley.”

STREET ILLEGAL
McIntosh figured the chair wouldn’t be street legal, so he designed it
to fit in the back of his hatchback. To load it, he slides off the
backrest, leans a ramp against the back of his car, and pushes the
heavy frame up and in. He typically uses it in parking lots, but he
does occasionally take it around local streets and even took it to
USC’s homecoming parade.

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www.circuitmix.com
GLOSSARY
ALLIGATOR clip Spring-loaded clip that can be used to connect a
component to a wire in a temporary circuit.

ALUMINUM flashing Thin sheet of aluminum; often used in

weatherproofing to prevent water from flowing through a joint.

AMPLIFIER Component that augments the power of a signal. In

circuits, an amplifier is usually used to increase the voltage or current.

ANTENNA Wire, thin metal pole, or other device that can transmit or
receive electromagnetic waves, such as TV or radio waves.

ARDUINO Common, open-source microcontroller. There are various

types of Arduino microcontrollers, but all can be programmed using the
same programming language.

BLACK LIGHT Type of lamp that gives off ultraviolet light. Many
substances emit fluorescence that can be seen under a black light, but not
in normal lighting conditions.

BREADBOARD Base used to set up temporary circuits and test them

out before soldering components together.

BREAKOUT BOARD Electrical component that allows you easier

access to tightly spaced pins on a microchip or densely bundled wires.
The device connects the hard-to-reach pins or wires to an easier-to-access
interface.

BUSHING Connector used to join pipes of different diameters; one end

has a smaller opening, the other end a larger one. A bushing can also be
called a reducing coupling.

CAPACITOR Electrical component that stores energy within a circuit.

Unlike a battery, a capacitor does not produce energy, it simply contains
or filters the energy already flowing through the circuit.

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CIRCUIT Closed loop through which electrical current flows. A circuit
is often used to power an electrical device.

CIRCUIT BOARD Thin, insulated board on which electrical

components are mounted and connected together. A printed circuit board
has thin conductive strips printed on the board, allowing connections to
be made between components largely without the use of wires.

CLAMP Device used to hold an object tightly in place. Clamps can vary
widely in size and construction, and can be intended for temporary or
permanent use.

COAXIAL CABLE Cable with a central conductive wire, surrounded

by an insulating layer, which in turn is surrounded by a conductive tube.
A coaxial cable is often used to transmit radio or cable television signals.

COIN BATTERY Also called a button cell, a coin battery is a small,

flat, disc-shaped battery that is often used to power portable electronic
devices.

CONDUCTIVITY Capacity to transmit an electrical current; it can also

refer to the measure of a substance’s ability to transmit electrical current.

CONTACT Point where an electrical component is connected to a wire

or circuit board.

COUPLER Short section of piping used to join two pipes together.

CRAFT KNIFE Small, fixed-blade knife used to make precise cuts.

DESOLDERING Removing solder to detach components from a circuit

or circuit board. Desoldering can be used to fix a fault in a circuit, or to
replace a component.

DIODE Electronic component with one terminal that has high resistance,
and another terminal with low resistance. A diode is used to allow current
to flow in one direction but not another.

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DRILL Tool used to cut holes in a variety of materials. A drill is usually
powered by electricity, and comes with an array of interchangeable bits in
different sizes.

ELECTRICAL TAPE Type of tape covered in an insulating material,

often used to cover and connect electrical wires.

ELECTRICAL WIRE Insulated strand of conductive material used to

carry electricity.

ELECTRODE Conductor used to transmit current to a non-metallic

material. Electrodes are used in arc welding to fuse objects together.

EPOXY Adhesive made from a type of resin that becomes rigid when
heated or cured.

EXHAUST FAN Fan used to ventilate a workspace; it is particularly

important to use an exhaust fan when working with materials that emit
toxic fumes.

FIBER OPTIC CABLE Cable made up of thin fibers that transmit light
from one end of the fiber to the other. A fiber optic cable can carry
signals and provide illumination.

FLASH DRIVE Small data-storage device that can be connected to a

computer, often via a USB port.

FRESNEL LENS Thin lens made of a number of smaller lens segments.

A Fresnel lens magnifies a light source, and is often used in projectors
and spotlights.

GROUND WIRE Wire in a circuit that provides a return path for

current, often leading to the earth. A ground wire can prevent the buildup
of dangerous static electricity in a circuit.

HACKSAW Fine-toothed saw held in a frame. A hacksaw can be used to

cut metal or other hard materials.

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HEAT-SHRINK tubing Tubing that contracts when heated; often used to
insulate wires or to create a protective seal.

HEAT SINK Device that channels heat away from an electronic system,
keeping it cool enough to operate properly.

HOLE SAW Cylindrical saw blade, used to cut holes of uniform size. A
hole saw is usually used in a drill, in place of the drill bit, to create a
large hole.

HOLOGRAPHY Technique that allows for the capture of a lifelike 3D

image. The resulting hologram looks different when viewed from
different angles, much as a real-world scene would.

INSULATION Material, such as the nonconductive coating around an

electrical wire, that prevents current or heat from flowing.

INTEGRATED CIRCUIT Also called a microchip, this small, thin

device is a complete circuit etched or imprinted on a semiconductive
surface. An integrated circuit allows for complex circuitry to be
condensed into an extremely small space, and is vital to the operation of
many modern electronic devices, notably computers.

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JIGSAW Tool (usually a power tool) with a long, thin saw blade. A
jigsaw is useful in cutting curves and irregular shapes.

JOINT The point at which two objects are connected together. In

woodworking, creating a join may involve cutting a notch or angle into
the pieces of wood to be joined; in metalworking, the process often
involves soldering or welding.

LASER Device that emits a tightly focused beam of light. Lasers vary
widely in intensity, and can be as weak as a laser pointer, or strong
enough to cut through extremely hard and thick materials.

LCD MONITOR Display that uses liquid crystals to bend and shape
light to create an image. In an LCD monitor, the liquid crystal material is
sandwiched between two electrodes and filtered through a layer of
polarizing film.

LEAD A wire extending from an electronic component that is used to

connect that component to another electronic part.

LED Diode that gives off light. They are usually more energy-efficient
than incandescent light sources, and can be much smaller.

LITHIUM-ION BATTERY Type of rechargeable battery often used in

consumer electronics. A lithium-ion battery commonly carries a large
amount of energy for its size, and loses charge relatively slowly when not
in use.

MICROCONTROLLER Tiny dedicated computer, contained on a

single chip that can be embedded within a larger device.

MULTIMETER Device that measures electrical current, resistance, and

voltage. A multimeter is very helpful for monitoring and identifying
problems in circuits.

O-RING Circular seal used in joining cylinders together. An O-ring is

usually seated inside a joint to prevent leaks.

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OHM Unit of measurement of electrical resistance.

OPTICAL MOUSE Computer mouse that uses an LED to sense motion,

as opposed to the rolling ball used by a mechanical mouse.

PARTICLEBOARD Composite wood-based material manufactured

from small chips or shavings of wood joined together by resin.

PEG-BOARD Plank or sheet of wood pre-drilled with a grid of evenly

spaced small holes, A Peg-Board is useful for mounting hooks and tools
on a wall.

PHOTOCELL Device that produces a flow of current when exposed to

light. A photocell can detect the presence (or absence) of light or other
radiation.

PLEXIGLAS Hard, transparent plastic; looks like glass but is more

lightweight and durable.

POLARIZING FILM Sheet of material, often used in LCD monitors,

that allows only light polarized in a specific direction to pass through.

PORT Point of interface between one device and another. On computers,

common ports include Ethernet ports and USB ports.

POTENTIOMETER Three-terminal electrical component that acts as a

variable resistor. These adjust the flow of current through a circuit, and
are often used in dimmer switches or volume controls.

PROGRAMMING LANGUAGE Language used to convey instructions

to a computer or other machine. Many distinct programming languages
are used for different purposes and types of hardware.

PROJECT BOX Box designed to contain the components of a circuit;

useful for mounting and protecting the elements of a device.

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PVC PIPE Type of durable, lightweight plastic pipe often used to carry
liquids in plumbing.

PVC PIPE CEMENT Adhesive designed to connect pieces of PVC

material together.

REBAR Ridged bar of steel, often used in construction to reinforce

concrete or masonry.

RECIPROCATING SAW Power tool that cuts with the back-and-forth

motion of a saw blade.

REED SWITCH Switch composed of metal reeds enclosed in a tiny

glass container. The reeds react to the presence of a magnetic field by
either opening or closing the switch.

RESISTOR Two-terminal electrical component that resists the flow of

an electric current. A resistor is used in a circuit to control the direction
and strength of the current flowing through it.

ROTARY TOOL Power tool with a wide variety of interchangeable bits

that can be used for different purposes. A rotary tool can cut, polish,
carve, or grind, and is particularly good for detail work.

SAFETY GOGGLES Glasses that shield the eye area from heat,
chemicals, and debris.

SCHEMATIC Two-dimensional map of an electrical circuit. A

schematic uses a set of symbols to stand for the components of a circuit,
and shows the connections between components.

SKETCH When working with Arduino microcontrollers, a sketch is a

program that can be loaded into an Arduino.

SLAG Scrap metal that results from the welding process.

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SOLDERING Connecting two metal objects together by melting solder
(a type of metal) with a soldering iron to create a strong joint between the
objects.

SUGRU Type of silicone-based putty that can be molded for about 30

minutes after it is removed from its packaging. Sugru cures to a solid but
somewhat flexible state after 24 hours.

SWITCH Component that can stop the flow of current in a circuit, or

allow it to continue. These include push-button switches, rocker
switches, toggle switches, and many other devices.

TABLE SAW Machine that cuts wood or other materials with a rapidly
spinning serrated metal disc. A circular saw is usually powered by
electricity, and often mounted within a safety guard.

T-CONNECTOR Short section of pipe with three openings; used to

connect lengths of pipe into a T shape.

TERMINAL End point of a conductor in a circuit; also a point at which

connections can be made to a larger network.

TOUCHSCREEN An electronic display screen that users interact with

by touching with their fingers; the screen detects touch within the display
area.

TRANSFORMER Device that transfers current from one circuit to

another. A transformer can also be used to alter the voltage of an
alternating current.

TRANSISTOR Semiconducting electrical component with at least three

leads; can control or amplify the flow of electricity in a circuit.

USB Universal Serial Bus; an extremely common type of connector for

computer and other electronic components.

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VISE Type of clamp, often affixed to a table, that uses a screw to hold an
object tightly in place.

VOLT Unit of measurement for electrical potential.

WELDING Process of joining pieces of metal together by melting them

slightly and introducing a filler material at the joint.

WIRE cutter Pliers with sharp diagonal edges used to cut lengths of
wire.

WIRE STRIPPER Device composed of a set of scissor-like blades with

a central notch; used to strip the insulation from the outside of electrical
wires.

ZIP TIES Self-closing fastener. When the end of a zip tie is inserted into
the slot at its head and tightened, it creates a loop that can’t easily be
loosened.

www.circuitmix.com
INDEX

A
air freshener, car 232
air hockey puck, oversize 252
air horns, car horns replaced with 234
alarm system, laser 086
aluminum foil 087, 205
amphibious vehicle 251
antenna, dipole 154
antennas
cell phone 155
HDTV 157
radio 154
Wi-fi 156
aquarium, installed in TV 097
arcade game, miniature 054
Arduino
distance sensor using 235
electrified drums using 078
lie detector using 152
programming 006
Arold, Gary 027

B
badminton court, backyard as 257
Barnes, Frank 258
basketball hoop, from bicycle parts 255
batsman, robot 258
Beaty, William 197

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beer
brewing machine for 014
carabiner bottle opener for 016
droid server for 021
foam-lined party cup as insulator for 020
quick chilling method for 018
shower caddy for 017
soda-can disguise for 019
beverages
droid server for 021
glow-in-the-dark 023
Jell-O cups for 022
LEGO ice cubes for 024
melon dispenser for 015
mint-tin shaker for 051
party cups for 020
See also beer
bicycles
basketball hoop using parts from 255
bottle-cap rearview mirror for 218
camera mounted on 207
converted to unicycle 222
map mounted on 223
pant-leg protector for riding 216
reinforced tires for 217
repurposing tire tubes of 226
saddle theft protection for 225
snowproofed tires for 224
speaker mounted on 220
spirograph using parts from 041
tightening handlebar grips on 219
Bobrow, Adam 261
Boogaarts, Martin 055

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boom-box duffel bag 070
bottle caps, repurposed 117
Bronsveld, Gerrit 055
broom, attached to remote-controlled toy car 112
Burning Man festival 066

C
cameras
aerial shots using weather balloon 246
audio-triggered flash for 214
DSLR, with manual lens 212
fisheye lens for using door peephole 211
large-scale prints for 215
mounted on bicycle handlebars 207
panoramic shots using kitchen timer 208
party cup as lens hood for 020
plastic-bottle diffuser for 209
plastic cup as tripod for 206
remote shutter release for 213
surveillance 109
waterproofed with condoms 210
campfires, coloration of 035
camping shower 239
canoe paddle, improved 249
cans, used as organizers 082
carabiner bottle opener 016
cardboard
hammock 138
life-size cutout 137
telephone casing 139
window blinds 140
Carnett, John B. 014, 227

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cassette casing, flash drive attached to 168
cassette player, audio art project using 067
catapult, miniature 040
cat door 143
CDs. See compact discs
CD storage spool, as cord organizer 192
cell phones
aluminum foil as signal blocker for 205
antenna for 155
silicone rubber protector for 159
solar charger for 163
See also smartphones
charger, emergency USB 236
checkers
bottle-cap 117
giant 057
Choi, Jisu 261
circuits
construction of 04
parts for 03
uses for 187
climbing wall 259
clocks
dartboard 103
persistence-of-vision 102
clothes hanger, collapsible 243
coasters
compact disks as 077
smart 118
coffee cans, repurposed 119
compact discs, repurposed 077, 107, 150, 192, 247
computers
fake desktop screen for 179

www.circuitmix.com
 foot-powered mouse for 172
magnet-activated on/off switch for 177
privacy-protected monitor for 180
See also hard drive; laptops
computer tower, engraving on 173
cooking
with clay-pot smoker 122
hot dogs with electrical wire 025
with solar umbrella 123
with sous-vide cooker 121
cooler, fan installed in 241
cord organizers 192, 262
credit cards, protection of information on 087
cups
as camera tripod 206
Jell-O 022
plastic 020, 206
speakers made with 075
cutting board, crumb-collecting 115

D
dance floor with LEDs 033
dartboard clock 103
dining-table automobile 120
distance sensor, for cars 235
doghouse, high-tech 141
door, secret 084
doorknobs
repurposed 083
tennis-ball protector for 256
drawers, Rubik’s-cube-style 134
drinks. See beverages

www.circuitmix.com
drive-in theater 099
drumsticks, electrified 078
duct tape, uses for 136
duffel bag, boom box made with 070
dumbbell, weighted with CDs 194

E
earbuds, custom-fit 076
easy chair, motorized 264
ebook reader case 105
engraving, on computer tower 173

F
film-roll keychain 089
fire
cloth balls of 036
green 035
medicine-bottle sparkler 038
propane gun 034
sound tube with 034
turntable tornado of 037
fitness rings, using PVC pipe 260
flash drives
cassette case for 168
frayed USB cable attached to 170
LEGO case for 171
pink-eraser disguise for 169
in secret locations 062
flashlights
krypton bulb in 203
miniature 202
Flipperdinger 079

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floppy disks, storage box using 193
food freshness timer 114
Forbes, David 094
fountain, toilet-powered 124
Fuller, Buckminster 146

G
games
bottle-cap checkers 117
gaming chair for 094
giant checkers 057
Magic 8 Ball 060
mini arcade 054
Nintendo-controller belt for 055
pinball 048
ping-pong 261
pocket billiard set 053
Skee-Ball 049
super-size Operation 056
garden hose, repurposed 147
gearshift knob, customized 237
geodesic dome 146
Gill, John 027
glove
for animatronic hand 065
ping-pong-paddle 253
for touchscreen 073
glow stick 032
Godshaw, Robb 261
goggles, infrared 199
golf cart, truck-engine-powered 147
Google Street View, glasses for 61

www.circuitmix.com
graffiti laser 099
greenhouse, CD-case 150
grinding tool, from hard drive 128
grow lights, LED 149
Grubb, Randy 230
guitar, mint-tin 052
guns
fire-shooting 034
potato-shooting 027
pumpkin-shooting 027
water-shooting 039

H
hammock, cardboard 138
hand, animatronic 065
hard drive, computer
external 183
as grinding tool 128
refrigerator magnets from 116
headphones, attached to hoodie 072
Hewitt, Stan 251
hologram 058
hood ornament 231
hot dogs, cooked with electric wire 025
hot rod, logging truck converted to 230
hovercraft, miniature 247

I
ice cubes, LEGO 024
identity theft, protection against 087
infrared goggles 199
ink, conductive 198

www.circuitmix.com
Iron Man 044

J
Jannot, Mark 099
Jell-O cups 022
jetpack, water-powered 047
junk-mail pencils 042

K
kayak, converted to sailboat 250
Kayser, Markus 201
keyboards, computer
portable roll-up 185
thumbtacks using keys of 184
keychain, film-roll 089
Krasnow, Ben 197

L
lamps. See lights
laptops
case colors for, using fabric dye 175
cooling system for 181
paper-binder stand for 188
whiteboard top for 174
wood veneer casing for 176
lasers
alarm system with 086
carpenter’s level with 130
as cutting tool 200
harp 080
projector 099
Lawlor, Lindsay 066

www.circuitmix.com
lawnmower, self-guiding 148
LED displays
and conductive ink 198
in dance floor 033
in glow stick 032
as grow lights 149
in hot-dog-cooking device 025
in super-size Operation game 056
in light box 030
in lighter 031
miniature flashlight with 202
on motorcycle 228
on motorcycle helmet 229
in mousepad 186
in planetarium 028
in smart coaster 118
as wearable television 094
LEGOs
flash-drive case using 171
ice cubes of 024
pinball machine with 055
zoetrope using 043
Li, Raymond 047
lie detector 152
lights
glow-in-the-dark beverages 023
glow-in-the-dark ties 071
hanging liquid lamps 100
light box 030
liquid light show 029
party cup chandelier 020
planetarium 028
retro lamp base 101

www.circuitmix.com
 See also LED displays
light saber 059

M
magazine rack, polystyrene 104
Magic 8 Ball 060
magnetic tape, art using 067
magnets
ferrofluid with 046
miniature motor with 064
refrigerator, from hard drive 116
refrigerator, in bottle caps 117
silly putty with 045
as stud finders 127
with wristband 129
mail sorter, CD 107
Marshall, Vin 034
McIntosh, Chris 264
melon drink dispenser 015
metalworking 011, 012, 013
microcontrollers 005
mini-golf course 258
mint tins
billiard set made with,053
guitar made with 052
martini shaker made with 051
racer made with 050
monitors, computer
privacy-protected 180
as storage rack 191
motorcycle, illuminated with LEDs 228
motorcycle helmet, illuminated with LEDs 229

www.circuitmix.com
mouse (control device)
foot-powered 172
remote activation of 182
mousepad, LED-lit 186
Munich, Adam 195
music
bicycle speaker for 220
with booby-trapped safe 088
with boom-box duffel bag 070
with custom-fit earbuds 076
laser harp for making 080
with light box 030
with liquid light show 029
mint-tin guitar for making 052
with paper-cup speakers 075
pocket theremin for making 080
with Rubens’ tube 034
with upgraded phonograph 074

N
nail clipper, mini catapult using 040
netbooks, touchscreen modification for 165
Nintendo-controller belt 055

O
Oh, Hoon 261
Operation game, super-size 056
oscilloscope, TV used as 095
overhead projector, for liquid light show 029

P
party cups, uses of 020

www.circuitmix.com
pencils, junk-mail 042
persistence-of-vision clock 102
pet feeder, automatic 142
phonograph, upgraded 074
photo frame, digital 092
pinball games 048, 055
ping-pong
gloves made with paddles for 253
tilting table for 261
pizza-box turntable 068
planetarium 028
plasma globe 197
polarized light, privacy-protected monitor using 180
polygraph test 152
poofers, propane 034
Poole, Chris 099
postage scale, magnetic 108
potato gun 027
Price, Jamie 021
printer, computer
in drawer 190
as shredder 106
printer, 3D, solar-powered 201
propane
in fire gun 034
in Rubens’ tube 034
pumpkin gun 027
PVC pipe
collapsible travel hanger using 243
fitness rings using 260
geodesic dome made with 146
kayak converted to sailboat using 250
light saber using 059

www.circuitmix.com
 mini-golf course using 258
pinball game using 048
potato launcher made with 027
roller coaster made with 047
soccer goal made with 254
squirt gun made with 039
windmill using 144

R
radiation detector 196
radio
dipole antenna for 154
foxhole 153
radio-frequency ID chips, protection of 087
razor, protective clip for 245
refrigerator magnets, from hard drive 116
remote display, for computers 161
robots
artistic 110
giraffe 066
surveillance 109
toothbrush 063
rocket, miniature 248
roller coaster, homemade 047
Roomba cleaning robot
as paint applicator 110
as surveillance camera 109
Rubik’s cube, chest of drawers as 134
running shoes, improved traction for 263
rust removal, using electricity 111

www.circuitmix.com
safes
electrical-outlet disguise for 087
musical booby trap for 090
sailboat, kayak converted to 250
Samuelson, Darren 215
sander, miniature 135
scanning electron microscope, homemade 197
screwdrivers
electric, instant charge for 131
miniature 132
screws, stripped, removal of 133
scrub brush, attached to power saw 113
seat, TV console used as 096
shaving razor, as miniature sander 135
showerhead, double 125
shredder, printer modified into 106
silly putty, magnetized 045
skateboards 227
Skee-Ball game 049
smartphones
projector for 162
tripod for 164
Xbox 360 controller as case for 158
smoker, clay-pot 122
snowblower, high-powered 151
soccer goal, with PVC pipe 254
solar chargers 145, 163, 240
solar cooker 123
solar-powered 3D printer 201
soldering, how-to 001, 002, 003, 004
sparkler, medicine-bottle 038
speakerphone 160
speakers

www.circuitmix.com
 bicycle-mounted 220
hidden 085
paper-cup 075
spectrometer, cereal-box 195
spirograph 041
spotlight, miniature 204
squirt guns 039
stud finder, magnetic 127
stylus, for touchscreens 166
suitcases, attaching wheels to 244
surveillance camera, attached to Roomba 109
Syyn Labs 261

T
taillights, car, masks for 233
telephone casing, cardboard 139
television
aquarium installed in 097
as digital-device monitor 091–092
liquor cabinet in console of 098
as oscilloscope 095
seat in console of 096
slideshow on 091
wearable LED 094
tennis ball, repurposed 256
Tesla coil, miniature 197
theremin, pocket 080
thumbtacks with computer keyboard keys 184
tie, glow-in-the-dark 071
toast 026
toilet-paper dispenser 126
toilet-powered fountain 124

www.circuitmix.com
toothbrush, robotic pet made with 063
toothpaste tubes, refilling 242
touchscreens
for netbook 165
stylus for 166
vinyl protector for 167
toy-car broom 112
tripod
for camera, using plastic cup 206
for smartphone 164
turntables
fire tornado using 037
pizza-box 068
zoetrope using 043

U
umbrella, solar, for cooking 123
unicycles 222
USB hub, built into desk 189

V
van, bed installed in 238
vehicles
amphibious 251
bed installed in 238
distance sensor for 235
golf cart powered by truck engine 148
hot rod converted from logging truck 230
motorcycle, illuminated with LEDs 228
motorized dining table 120
motorized easy chair 264
taillight masks for 233

www.circuitmix.com
 See also bicycles; skateboards
vinyl record, silicone copy of 069
virtual-reality glasses 061

W
water guns 039
water-powered jetpack 047
Watkins, Perry 120
weather balloon, aerial photos using 246
welcome mats, customized 081
welding, how-to 013
Wi-fi antenna, using steamer 156
window blinds, cardboard 140
wind turbine, backyard 144
woodworking, how-to 007, 008, 009, 010
wristband, with magnet inside 129

X
Xbox 360 controller, as smartphone case 158
X-ray machine, portable 195

Z
zoetrope, turntable 043

www.circuitmix.com
THANKS TO OUR MAKERS
Lots of inventive people contributed their ideas and how-to
tutorials to the pages of this book. Look them up to find out more
details about their projects, as well as any new cool stuff they’re
up to.

www.circuitmix.com
GEEK TOYS
014: John B. Carnett (carnettphoto.com) 015: Elizabeth Hurchalla and
Kent Hayward 019: Kip Kay (kipkay.com) 021: Jamie Price
(jamiepricecreative.com) 023: Scott McIndoe 024: Kyle Pollock 025:
Windell H. Oskay (evilmadscientist.com) 026: Alessandro Lambardi 027
(potato gun): Spudtech (spudtech.com) 027 (pumpkin gun): Gary Arold
and John Gill 029: R. Lee Kennedy, Associate Professor, Department of
Drama, University of Virginia 030: Michel Mota da Cruz 031: Bob Munz
033: Mike Andersen, Grant Elliot, Schyler Senft-Grup, and Scott Torborg
(scotttorborg.com) 034 (Rubens’ tube): Nik Vaughn 034 (fireball gun):
Vin Marshall (te-motorworks.com) 035: Courtesy of campfiredude.com
039: Courtesy of waterzooka.com 041: Inspired by a tutorial by
Instructables username hunrichs; furthered by Emelie Griffin 042:
Kimanh le Roux (scissorspaperwok.com) 043: Emelie Griffin 044:
Anthony Le (masterle247.wix.com) 047 (jetpack): Raymond Li (jetlev-
flyer.com) 050: Harout Markarian 051: Daniel Wolf (cookrookery.com)
052: Jason Wilson 053: Robert Waters 054: Eddie Zarick 055 (LEGO
pinball): Gerrit Bronsveld and Martijn Boogarts 056: Joshua
Zimmerman (browndoggadgets.com) 058: A.C. Jeong 059: Michael
Nagle 061: Andrew Lim (cofounder of Recombu.com) 062: Aram
Bartholl (deaddrops.com) 065: Bard Lund Johansen 066: Lindsay Lawlor
(electricgiraffe.com) 067: Inspired by Kang Chang, Kyle Milns, and
Mike Fleming; further developed by Ian Cannon 068: Courtesy of
illphabetik.com 073: Tim Lillis 074: Michael Greensmith
(steampunkwayoflife.blogspot.com.au) 078: Maayan Migdal (created at
the Bezalel Academy of Art and Design, under professors Ytai Ben-Tsvi,
Shachar Geiger, and Itay Galim) 080 (theremin): Dave Prochnow 080
(lasers): Stephen Hobley (stephenhobley.com)

HOME IMPROVEMENTS
081: Jeni Rodger (jenirodger.com) 082: Brian Jewett 085: Ben Katz
(build-its.blogspot.com) 086: Kip Kay (kipkay.com) 093: Dave
Prochnow 094 (wearable LED TV): David Forbes 099 (graffiti laser):
Chris Poole 100: Eric Dyer and Maggie Hoffman (radiohole.com) 102:
David Prochnow 105: Daniel Julian 106: Jared Bouck (inventgeek.com)
111: Damon Hearne 118: Dave Prochnow 120: Perry Watkins

www.circuitmix.com
(perrywinklecustoms.co.uk) 123: Juan Francisco Paredes 124: Patrick
Lalonde 125: Dan Poff (tophatlabs.wordpress.com) 129: Ben Diaz 131:
Dave Prochnow 134: Scott McIndoe 140: Melanie Rapp Mimikry 141:
John B. Carnett (carnettphoto.com) 142: Merijn van Wouden 143: Dean
Segovis (hackaweek.com) 144: Ed Lenz (windstuffnow.com) 145: Dave
Prochnow 148 (lawnmower): Korey Atterberry (atterberry.net) 148 (golf
cart): Bill Rulien (beavercreekgolfcarts.com) 149: Dave Prochnow 151:
Kai Grundt

GADGET UPGRADES
152: William Finucane (adapted with permission from his original guide
in the Mad Science World on wonderhowto.com) 157: Wallace Kineyko
161: Dave Prochnow 162: Dylan Hart (householdhacker.com) 167:
Jennifer Lee (jen7714.wordpress.com) 169: Adapted from More Show
Me How 170: Windell H. Oskay (evilmadscientist.com) 172:
Instructables username unclesam 173: Ian Cannon 175: Phil Herlihy
(braindeadlock.net) 176: Jeffrey Davies 178: Dave Fortin
(failsworld.com) 180: TomaDimov (outfab.com) 181: Bard Lund
Johansen 185: Ian Cannon 186: Jani “Japala” Pönkkö (editor of
metku.net) 188: Ingo Schommer (chillu.com) 190: Pamela Stephens
(pbjstories.com) 195 (portable X-ray machine): Adam Munich 196:
Bionerd23 (youtube.com/user/bionerd23) 197 (plasma globe): Burak
Incepinar (tacashi.tripod.com) 197 (DIY SEM): Ben Krasnow
(youtube.com/user/bkraz333) 199: Kip Kay (kipkay.com) 201: Markus
Kayser (markuskayer.com) 204: Chris Barnardo 208: Larry Towe
(getawaymoments.com) 214: Dave Prochnow 215: Darren Samuelson
(darrensamuelson.com)

THINGS THAT GO
227 (fan-propelled skateboard): Ryan Bavetta 227 (motorized
skateboard): John B. Carnett (carnettphoto.com) 229: Ian Cannon 230:
Randy Grubb 235: William Finucane (adapted with permission from his
original guide in the Mad Science World on wonderhowto.com) 238:
Allison Button (modmischief.blogspot.com) 240: Dave Prochnow 242:
Adam Stetten 244: Alan Chatham (unojoy.com) 246: Public Laboratory
for Open Technology and Science (publiclaboratory.org) 248: Dave

www.circuitmix.com
Prochnow 251: Stan Hewitt 252: Ari Horowitz 255: Claude Siset
(synergyparamotors.com) 258 (batting machine): Frank Barnes
(robocross.de) 259: Conor Buckley 261: Hoon Oh (hoon-oh.com), Robb
Godshaw (robb.cc), and Jisu Choi (jisuchoi.com) 264: Chris McIntosh

www.circuitmix.com
IMAGE CREDITS
All images courtesy of Shutterstock Images unless otherwise noted.
Courtesy of the Popular Science Archives: 49, 57, 79, 83, 104, 119,
147, 160, 213, 249, 257.
Chris Barnardo: 204 Ryan Bavetta: 227 (photograph of skateboard)
Luis Bruno: 100, 102, 131, 149 Conor Buckley: 15, 22, 24–26, 27
(potato gun illustration), 28–32, 34 (Rubens’ tube illustration), 39–43,
45, 47 (roller coaster illustration), 48, 55 (Nintendo belt illustration), 56,
58–65, 67–69, 75–76, 78, 81, 84–86, 88–93, 94 (gaming chair), 99, 101,
103, 107–109, 111–116, 118, 121–126, 132–133, 135, 142–144, 146, 148
(lawnmower photograph), 150, 152, 159, 162–167, 172–177, 180, 183–
186, 193–194, 196, 198–200, 202–203, 206–208, 214, 221–225, 228–
229, 235–242, 247–248, 250, 259, 262 John B. Carnett: Back cover
(firegun photograph), 14, 21, 27 (pumpkin gun photograph), 33, 34
(firegun photograph), 141, 145, 148 (golf cart photograph), 151, 161,
215, 227 (motorized skateboard photograph), 251, 258 (baseball
photograph) Luke Copping: 195 (portable
X-ray machine photograph) Scott Erwert: Front cover, 87, 106, 158,
178–179, 181, 195, 197 (plasma globe photograph), 220, 243–246, 258
(mini-golf course photograph), 260, 263 Hayden Foell: 153 Getty
Images: 80 (Léon Theremin photograph) Michael Greensmith: 74 JP
Greenwood: 66 Jeannette Grubb: 230 Stephen Hobley: 80 (laser harp
photograph) D.G. Hubbard: 47 (Jetflyer photograph) Dan Julian: 105
Brian Jewett: 82 Theron Kirkman: 99 (graffiti laser photograph)
Timothy Lillis: 192 Scott McIndoe: 23, 134 Stephen Meckler: 94
(LED TV vest photograph) Jeff Newton: 261 Cody Pickens: 197
(electron scanning microscope photograph), 264 Amos Field Reid: 201
Tyler Stableford: 44 Nik Vaughn: 34 (Rubens’ tube photograph) Carl
Wiens: Back cover (mint-tin guitar illustration, steamer illustration,
aquarium illustration, air freshener illustration), 16–19, 35–38, 50–53,
70–73, 95–98, 127–130, 137–140, 154–157, 168–171, 188–191, 209–
212, 216–219, 231–234, 252–255 Jonathon Worth: 120 Eddie Zarick:
54

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DISCLAIMER
The information in this book is presented for an adult audience and for
entertainment value only. While every piece of advice in this book has
been fact-checked and where possible, field-tested, much of this
information is speculative and situation-dependent. The publisher
assumes no responsibility for any errors or omissions and makes no
warranty, express or implied, that the information included in this book is
appropriate for every individual, situation, or purpose. Before attempting
any activity outlined in these pages, make sure you are aware of your
own limitations and have adequately researched all applicable risks. This
book is not intended to replace professional advice from experts in
electronics, woodworking, metalworking, or any other field. Always
follow all manufacturers’ instructions when using the equipment featured
in this book. If the manufacturer of your equipment does not recommend
use of the equipment in the fashion depicted in these pages, you should
comply with the manufacturer’s recommendations. You assume the risk
and full responsibility for all of your actions, and the publishers will not
be held responsible for any loss or damage of any sort—whether
consequential, incidental, special, or otherwise—that may result from the
information presented here. Otherwise, have fun.

www.circuitmix.com
President, CEO Terry Newell
VP, Sales Amy Kaneko
VP, Publisher Roger Shaw
Senior Editor Lucie Parker
Project Editors Emelie Griffin, Jess Hemerly
Creative Director Kelly Booth
Designer Michel Gadwa
Image Coordinator Conor Buckley
Production Director Chris Hemesath
Production Manager Michelle Duggan

415 Jackson Street, Suite 200

San Francisco, CA 94111
Telephone: 415 291 0100
Fax: 415 291 8841
www.weldonowen.com
Popular Science and Weldon Owen are divisions of

Copyright © 2012 Weldon Owen Inc.

All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in

any form

Library of Congress Control Number is on file with the publisher.

Digital Edition ISBN 978-1-61628-946-1

Print Edition ISBN 978-1-61628-399-5

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Weldon Owen would like to thank Katie Cagenee, Andrew Jordon,
Katharine Moore, Gail Nelson-Bonebrake, Jenna Rosenthal, Katie
Schlossberg, and Marisa Solís for their editorial expertise and design
assistance.
We’d also like to thank our technical editors, Michael Rigsby and Tim
Lillis, and our in-house builder and circuity diagram consultant, Ian
Cannon.

Popular Science would like to thank Matt Cokeley, Todd Detwiler, Kristine
LaManna, Stephanie O’Hara, Thom Payne, and Katie Peek for their support
over the years.
We would also like to thank Gregory Mone for penning the You Built
What?! entries included in this book.
And a big thanks to Mark Jannot and Mike Haney—the How 2.0 column’s
first editor—for getting it all started.

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