Learn to weave on the

Inkle Loom

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THE ASHFORD INKLE LOOM spacer
dowel
Inkle bands are strong and useful braids.
Create colourful belts, bracelets, ties, guitar
front back
upright upright
straps, shoe laces or trims for weaving. You can
sew them together and make bags, placemats,
cushion covers and much more.
The Inkle Loom produces a warp-faced band in washer and
which the warp completely covers the weft. handle

warp starter screw

and washer
base
bolt
feet warp peg
tension peg

ASSEMBLE YOUR LOOM

You will need a screw driver, hammer, damp cloth, candle wax or soap (for screw threads), and glue (included).
Before commencing: Please read these instructions completely, identify the parts and note the assembly sequence. Use the
sandpaper supplied to remove any sharp edges and corners. To make assembly easier, use candle wax on the screws.
Finishing the wood: To protect the kiln dried wood from climatic changes and prevent it getting stained or dirty, we recommend the
wood surfaces be waxed or sealed. The Silver Beech tree is a native of New Zealand and has a lovely variety of colour and grain. For a
silky smooth finish, use Ashford Finishing Wax Polish to enhance the natural colours and character of this timber. However please do
this after assembly to ensure the glue adheres to the wood.
1. Apply a thin film of glue to the holes in the sides of the front and back uprights for the spacer dowel.
2. Check that the holes for the warp pegs are all on the same side. Then fully insert the spacer dowel into the holes. Check that the
sides are parallel. If necessary, protect the wood and then tap gently with a hammer. Wipe any surplus glue off with a damp cloth.
3. Apply a thin film of glue to the inside of the oval holes in the top of the base and tenons on the ends of the front and back
uprights.
4. Check that all the holes for the warp pegs are all on the same side of the uprights and base. Then insert the uprights fully into the
base. If necessary, protect the wood and then tap gently with a hammer. Then secure with screws. Wipe any surplus glue off with
a damp cloth.
5. Apply a thin film of glue to one of the holes for a warp peg. Then gently tap the warp peg in with a hammer to ensure the peg is to
the bottom of the hole. Wipe any surplus glue off with a damp cloth.
6. Repeat for the other warp pegs.
7. Attach the 2 feet to the base with 2 screws each.
8. Push the bolt through the tension peg, through the slot in the base and secure with the large washer and knob. Tighten the knob
to pull the head of the bolt into the wood. Before starting to warp, position the tension peg as illustrated. This will allow the most
adjustment as you weave.
9. With the washer attached, insert the small screw into the hole in front of the base. Leave about 2mm (1/16") gap for the start of
the warp thread to be wrapped around.
10. Wait 24 hours for the glue to set hard before warping your Inkle Loom.

BEFORE YOU BEGIN:

WARP LENGTH: 1.3m (51") to 2.8m (110")
WARP WIDTH: up to 75mm (3")
THE SHED
The shed is obtained by the use of leashes. A thread NOT going through a leash is called an “open” thread.
Shed 1 - is made by pushing down on all the open threads
Shed 2 - is made by lifting all the open threads
THREADS TO USE
Use strong, smooth and colourful threads. Mercerised cotton is good. Most wool is suitable but avoid wool that is soft or hairy (these
tend to cling to each other and make it difficult to obtain a clean, open shed). Textured and metallic threads, silk and nylon add
variety. Be experimental but make sure all threads have about the same amount of elasticity, otherwise the surface will be uneven.
WIDTH OF WARP
Because the weft thread is pulled tight, the weaving will be reduced to about half the original width of the warp. However, if you want
to increase or decrease the width at any stage, this is done by the amount of tension on the weft thread.
SHUTTLE
A Belt shuttle with a bevelled edge for beating is included in the kit.
TENSION PEG
The tension peg is used to keep the warp under tension when weaving. When moving the weaving around the loom, loosen the tension
peg to release the tension. Use two hands to advance the warp. When using a full length warp take care to move the weaving little by
little. Do not pull too tight! You could break the pegs!
LEASHES
Leashes or string heddles are loops that make it possible to create an up and down shed.
THE LOOM

top rear
peg

top front peg

leash pegs

bottom
peg

start and
end here
warping pegs
(9 in total)
tension peg

screw shuttle

start peg
clamp
WARP LENGTHS SHORT WARP
Determine how long you want your weaving to be. You can
weave between 1.3 - 2.8 metre-long (51 - 110") warps. Use a Round 1
piece of scrap yarn to work out the path of the warp.

Round 2

All warps, from short to long, go from the

start peg, over the top front peg and top
rear peg then around pegs necessary for the
warp length you are making, ensuring you
go around the tension peg and around the LONG WARP
bottom peg before returning to the start peg
again for Round 2.
Repeat Round 1 and Round 2 continuously Round 1
until finished.

Round 2

Tension peg: Before you begin warping set the

tension peg approx. 10mm (3/8") from the
front of the slot - this will allow you to tighten
your warp fully before you begin weaving.
WARPING THE LOOM
To make your shed for weaving you need to wind the warp alternating Round 1 and Round 2.
ROUND 1: Wrap the beginning of the warp yarn around the starter screw. Take the yarn up and over the top front peg, over the top rear
peg and follow the warping pegs (length to suit) including the tension peg and the bottom peg before returning to the starter peg.
ROUND 2: Take the yarn straight up to the top rear peg (under the top front peg) and around the same warping pegs (including the
tension peg) and back to the starter peg. Repeat as per your draft.
When changing colours tie the new colour thread to the end of the previous colour thread using a reef knot at the starter peg.

HOW TO READ THE DRAFT

Drafts (charts) show the order of warp yarns on the loom. The top line represent threads with a leash and the bottom line represent
threads with no leash. Leash (Round 1), no leash (Round 2). Use the draft to warp up your inkle loom. A draft is usually not drawn for
the entire width of the woven piece, but only enough to show the pattern for winding the warps. The pattern is then repeated.

YOUR FIRST PROJECT

Draft Round 1

Round 2
1. Round 1 - Black 15. Round 1 - Green 29. Round 1 - Blue 43. Round 1 - White 57. Round 1 - Blue
2. Round 2 - Black 16. Round 2 - Green 30. Round 2 - Green 44. Round 2 - White 58. Round 2 - Blue
3. Round 1 - Black 17. Round 1 - Green 31. Round 1 - Blue 45. Round 1 - Black 59. Round 1 - Blue
4. Round 2 - Black 18. Round 2 - Green 32. Round 2 - Green 46. Round 2 - Black 60. Round 2 - Blue
5. Round 1 - Black 19. Round 1 - Green 33. Round 1 - Blue 47. Round 1 - Black 61. Round 1 - Blue
6. Round 2 - Black 20. Round 2 - Green 34. Round 2 - Green 48. Round 2 - Black 62. Round 2 - Green
7. Round 1 - Black 21. Round 1 - Blue 35. Round 1 - Blue 49. Round 1 - Black 63. Round 1 - Blue
8. Round 2 - Black 22. Round 2 - Green 36. Round 2 - Blue 50. Round 2 - Black 64. Round 2 - Green
9. Round 1 - White 23. Round 1 - Blue 37. Round 1 - Blue 51. Round 1 - Black 65. Round 1 - Blue
10. Round 2 - White 24. Round 2 - Green 38. Round 2 - Blue 52. Round 2 - White 66. Round 2 - Green
11. Round 1 - White 25. Round 1 - Blue 39. Round 1 - Blue 53. Round 1 - White 67. Round 1 - Blue
12. Round 2 - White 26. Round 2 - Green 40. Round 2 - Blue 54. Round 2 - White 68. Round 2 - Green
13. Round 1 - Green 27. Round 1 - Blue 41. Round 1 - White 55. Round 1 - White 69. Round 1 - Blue
14. Round 2 - Green 28. Round 2 - Green 42. Round 2 - White 56. Round 2 - Blue 70. Round 2 - Green....
01 02

Round 1

Wrap the beginning warp thread around the starter screw. Round 1. Take the yarn up and over the top front peg and
over top rear peg. Follow the warping pegs, including the
tension peg and bottom peg and return to the starter peg.

03 04

Round 2

Round 2. Take the yarn straight up and over the top rear peg When you need to change colours, cut the first colour just
and around the same warping pegs and back to the starter past the start peg.
peg. Repeat as per your draft.
05 06

Tie on the next colour using a reef knot as shown above. Every time you change colours throughout the warp, tie on
(Reef knot: left over right, right over left). the new colour at the start peg.

07 08

As the warp gets wider slide the threads towards the loom When you have completed the warp, tie the last thread
side so they do not slip off the pegs. to the beginning thread you had wrapped around the
starter screw.
 09 10

Finished warp. Now you need to make the leashes. Making leashes. Use string or fine strong cotton. Wind the
string around the two leash pegs as shown until you have
enough leashes for your top (Round 1) threads.

11 12

12cm

Cut the string as shown. Be careful not to cut your warp Fold each leash in half and tie a knot 1cm (3/8") from the
threads. end. Each leash should be the same length 12cm (4¾").
13 14

Adding the leashes. Take a leash up and over the first thread Slip the loops onto the leash peg. NOTE: leashes are only
of the warp (Round 1 thread). on top threads (Round 1 threads).

15 16

Continue across the warp adding leashes to all Round 1 Shed 1: Push the threads down to create a space (shed) in
threads. Keeping your threads in order, you should have front of the leashes.
Round 1 with a leash, then the Round 2 thread, then the next
Round 1 with a leash and so on. NOTE: Use the top rear peg
to sort through the threads as you add the leashes.
 17 18

Shed 2: Push the threads up to create a space (shed) in front Clamp the loom onto the table.
of the leashes.

19 20

Wind the weft thread onto the shuttle. For tidy edges use a Spread the warp by making Shed 1 and place in a piece
weft thread the same colour as the edge warp threads. of cardboard. Make Shed 2 and place another piece of
cardboard in and gently push into place.
21 22

You are now ready to weave. Make Shed 2 - Up. Put your shuttle between Shed 2 and
Make Shed 1 - Down. Pass the shuttle all the way through the beat the previous weft into place. Continue taking the
space between the threads (threads down, Shed 1). shuttle through Shed 2 (after beating).
Note: Leave about 10cm of weft thread hanging out, this will
be darned in when you have finished.

23

Pull the weft thread tightly. The warp threads will move together so you cannot see the weft at all through the warp.
Change to Shed 1 - Down. Put your shuttle into Shed 1. Beat the previous weft firmly into place. Continue taking the shuttle through
Shed 1. Pull the weft thread tightly. Change back to Shed 2 - Up.
Repeat this sequence.
 24 25

Continue weaving. Winding on. Loosen the nylon knob. Move the tension peg
back to loosen the warp.

26 27

Gently pull the warp forward towards you until the end of Pull the tension peg forward until the warp is tight. Tighten
the woven piece is about 5cm (2") from the front peg. All the the nylon knob. As you move the weaving past the start peg
threads will move around the pegs. you can remove the cardboard spacers. Continue weaving.
28 29

Stop weaving when you can’t weave any longer because the Sewing in weft ends. Sew the weft back three or four sheds
knots in the warp are close to the leashes. to lock it, this is easier to do with the warp under tension.
You are now ready to remove your weaving from the loom
BUT before you do, sew in the weft ends.

30
Hints:
To keep the edges straight when weaving follow these
simple rules:

1. Keep the warp very tight. A high tension makes the

whole braid and edges look better when finished.
2. Try to keep the same tension.
3. Every time you pull the shuttle out of the shed, before
you push the weft into place with the shuttle, pull
the previous weft thread again. That will even out the
little loop that occurs between the two outer warp
threads, which is essential when it comes to making
even edges.

Remove the weaving from the loom by cutting each half of the
warp a few centimetres (inches) behind the leashes. Pull the
threads out off the leashes.
To finish either let the ends hang loose as a fringe, plait them,
twist them, tie knots in them or glue them and cut them close
to the braid.
PATTERNS
Apart from the patterns in the warp, there are lots of pick-up
and pick-down patterns, patterns using different colours and
thicknesses of warp and weft and so on. You can even weave
letters and words.

Annie Machale from Soquel, USA sent us this letter chart illustrating how each letter is made up of blocks. NB: In this draft. Each block
consists of 3 consecutive turquoise threads (see draft below). When not needed as part of the letter, you must drop the turquoise out
of the way and lift the black from below. For this to work out, you must consider the black and turquoise threads next to each other as
complementary pairs. Whenever you drop a turquoise thread, you must pick up its corresponding black thread (the one just to its right)
from the lower shed.
For example, the letter A is formed in 3 sheds by the following method:
Row 1: Start the letter by weaving a plain row in the shed with turquoise on top. Pass weft. Change sheds. Beat.
Row 2: All black will be on top. Using your fingers or a pickup stick from left to right, keep the border threads. Next you will pick a
turquoise and drop a black. Repeat two more times so that you now have 3 turquoise. Keep the next 3 black. Pick turquoise and drop
black for the next three. Keep the next six black. Keep the border threads. Hold all of these up as you pass the weft. Change sheds.
Beat.
Row 3: All turquoise will be on top. Pass the weft. Change sheds. Beat.

Notice in the letter charts that each letter stands 5 blocks tall as you read it. Most letters are 3 blocks (shed rows) wide, although
letters with diagonal lines will take 4-5 blocks (sheds) to complete.

Draft
Border = Your Choice Pattern Area = 15 Each of 2 Colours of Same Weight Yarn Border = Your Choice
For more information, helpful hints and inspiration visit www.ashford.co.nz

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Ashford Handicrafts Limited

415 West Street, PO Box 474, Ashburton, New Zealand
Ph +64 3 308 9087 sales@ashford.co.nz www.ashford.co.nz
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