From the publisher of FineScale Modeler, the special issue,

Damaged, features creative modeling projects and finishing

techniques from Europe’s top experts.
Published 4 times a year, each issue includes:
• A unique collection of imaginative builds — everything
from warfare to sci-fi.
• Crisp full-color process photos and step-by-step instructions.
• Expert advice on weathering, detailing figures, kitbashing,
scratchbuilding, and more!
From cover to cover, Damaged offers fresh tips and cutting-edge
techniques for building your best models.

Shop all issues of Damaged at

KalmbachHobbyStore.com/DamagedIssues
P35508

2 Build Better Ship Models

CONTENTS Build Better
Ship Models
4 Editor’s page
Going overboard on ships!

6 Builder Basics: Ship modeling Pt.1

Creating the hull thing
BY AARON SKINNER

10 Builder Basics: Ship modeling Pt.2

Adding detail and photo-etch
BY AARON SKINNER

14 Builder Basics: Ship modeling Pt.3

Priming, masking, painting
BY AARON SKINNER

18 Builder Basics: Ship modeling Pt.4

Applying decals and fiddly bits
BY AARON SKINNER

22 13 tips for building great ships

Award-winning modeler offers tips
BY AARON SKINNER
22
27 Ship gallery 1
Model ships by Elias Ali and
Mike Fleckenstein

28 Ship painting tips

A colorful account of World War I
Germany’s SMS König
BY ALFONSO MARTINEZ BERLANA

32 Do-it-yourself waterline hull

Learn how to make your full-hull ship
into a waterline model
BY TED BUNN

34 How to build a battlewagon

Deepening the art of Texas
BY BILL PLUNK

42 Sculpting rough seas

Shape waves, wake, and spray
to put ships in stormy weather 34
BY CHRIS FLODBURG

47 Ship gallery 2 58 One tough ship 74 A night to remember

Model ships by Sean Fallesen Building, painting, and detailing Forced perspective in a
and Jim Stute a resin SMS Seydlitz shadowbox tells Titanic tale
BY ULF LUNDBERG BY MIKE MCFADDEN
48 Build Hasegawa’s Nagato
Scratchbuilt anti-aircraft posts and 64 Joe Simon’s top 10 tips 77 7 tips for building plastic
photo-etched metal bolster the battleship Build a Russian missile destroyer sailing ships
BY HARVEY LOW BY JOE SIMON Improve your next model today
BY PHILLIP GORE
55 Ship gallery 3 68 Drawing weld seams
Ship models by Samuel X. Parent Step-by-step outline of a simple 79 Modeling sails for
and Richard Sliwka technique to detail small ships plastic ships
BY GREG EMBREE Shiny styrene has no place
56 Superdetail a schnellboot on the seas
This German torpedo boat is fast, but 70 Build and detail a U-boat BY JOHN HAZARD
the model took three years to build Right tools make the difference
BY FRED BRINKS BY ANDERS ISAKSSON

www.FineScale.com 3
EDITOR’S PAGE
By Mark Savage
Build Better
Going overboard with ships! Ship Models
Editor Mark Savage
Art Director Tom Danneman
EDITORIAL
Senior Editor Aaron Skinner
Digital Editor Elizabeth Nash
Editorial Associate Monica Freitag
ART
Senior Graphic Designer Scott Krall
Graphic Designer Samantha Primuth
Illustrator Kellie Jaeger
Photographer William Zuback
Production Coordinator Cindy Barder
REGULAR CONTRIBUTING MODELERS
Paul Boyer, Andy Cooper, Raúl Corral, Chris Cortez, Frank
Cuden, Chuck Davis, Jonas Dahlberg, Walt Fink, Tom Foti,
Phillip Gore, James Green, Ted Horn, Joe Hudson, Mark
Karolus, Rick Lawler, Ulf Lundberg, Chris Oglesby,
Bill Plunk, John Plzak, Darren Roberts, Chuck Sawyer,
Mike Scharf, Cookie Sewell, Bob Steinbrunn, Karel Sutt,
Matthew Walker, Jim Wechsler, Adam Wilder, Jim Zeske

KALMBACH MEDIA
Chief Executive Officer Dan Hickey
Senior Vice President, Finance Christine Metcalf
Vice President, Content Stephen C. George
Vice President, Consumer Marketing Nicole McGuire
Ever since I toured the USS New Jersey and later the USS Wisconsin, I’ve had a great appreciation Vice President, Operations Brian J. Schmidt
Vice President, Human Resources Sarah A. Horner
for these giant battleships that served the U.S. Navy for so many years. Now we’ll show you how
Senior Director, Advertising Sales and Events
to build a gorgeously detailed USS Texas. With a name like that, you know it’s big. David T. Sherman
Advertising Sales Director Scott Redmond
Circulation Director Liz Runyon
Art and Production Manager Michael Soliday
New Business Manager Cathy Daniels
Retention Manager Kathy Steele

S hip models are special builds with

all their rigging, metal railings,
radar equipment, flags, along with
about the night the passenger liner
Titanic sunk.
Aaron Skinner’s fine four-part
Single Copy Specialist Kim Redmond
EDITORIAL
262-796-8776

their water- and weather-worn hulls “Builder Basics” series kicks off the ADVERTISING DEPARTMENT
888-558-1544
and superstructures. Then there’s the basics section. We follow with a bevy Advertising Sales Representative
Michael Wieloch, Ext. 630
task of putting them in context, on of ship tips and then Alfonso Advertising Services Representative
ads@FineScale.com
the water, be it rough seas or smooth Martinez Berlana’s story that delves
RETAIL, TRADE ORDERS, AND INQUIRIES
sailing on glassy waters. into accurate ship painting. Selling FineScale Modeler magazine or products
in your store:
Ship building takes special skills Along the way you’ll see how to Phone 800-558-1544
Outside U.S. & Canada 262-796-8776, Ext. 818
and more than a niggling amount of build a waterline ship model, sculpt Fax 262-798-6592
E-mail tss@Kalmbach.com
patience. realistic waves, highlight weld seams Website www.Retailers.Kalmbach.com
With all the variety, from and build fantastic ships like the USS CUSTOMER SALES AND SERVICE
battleships to sailing sloops, and then Texas, Nagato, SMS Seydlitz, a Phone 877-246-4847
Outside the U.S. and Canada 903-636-1125
to U-boats that cruise mostly under- Russian missile destroyer, a German Customer Service
Customerservice@FineScaleModeler.info
water, we felt it time to compile a schnellboot, and a U-boat. Finally, Back Issues
FineScaleModelerSingleCopy@customersvc.com
special issue of our absolute best we wrap it up with tips for making
SPECIAL EMAIL & WEB ADDRESSES
model ship building stories. These are sailing ships, and include the popular Ad Sales adsales@FineScale.com
Letters to the Editor editor@FineScale.com
excellent how-to and step-by-step John Hazard piece on proper sail New Products mfreitag@FineScale.com
Reader Gallery Contribute.Kalmbach.com
builds from the past 10 years of construction and rigging. Reader Questions questions@FineScale.com
Reader Tips tips@FineScale.com
FineScale Modeler gathered together If you’ve always dreamed of mak-
to serve as an authoritative source for ing a stellar ship model, Build Better Build Better Ship Models (ISBN 978-1-62700-682-8, EISBN
978-1-62700-683-5) is produced by FineScale Modeler
ship modelers. Ship Models is a how-to guide that magazine and published by Kalmbach Media Co., 21027
Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612 Waukesha, WI 53187. © 2018
You’ll find everything here that should float your boat. Kalmbach Media Co. All rights reserved. This
publication may not be reproduced in any form without
you’ll need to build a fine ship model. Enjoy! permission. Printed in the U.S.A. Single copy price, $9.99 in
U.S.; $10.99 in Canada and other countries. Canadian price
We start with ship building basics includes GST. BN 12271 3209 RT. Canadian and international
orders payable in U.S. funds. Canadian International
and work our way up to detailing war Publications Mail Products Agreement No. 40010760.
ships, how-to create awesome sails
for sailing ships, and even show the
makings of a story-telling diorama
editor@FineScale.com

4 Build Better Ship Models

 Welcome to the best online
resource of all things Naval!
We specialize in custom Navy Ball Caps,
Personalized Ship Prints, Model Ships
and US Navy Patches.

TOTALNAVY.COM
802 Cornaga Ave - Far Rockaway, NY 11691 – 800-845-1140

Commemorating the 75th Anniversary of D-Day • June 6, 2019

The all-new book, Modeling World War II in Europe,

features a variety of modeling subjects that fought in the
European Theater from the invasion of Poland in 1939 until the end of the war.
You’ll find armor, aircraft, ships, figures, and dioramas — including several
models of D-Day subjects — from FineScale Modeler’s Aaron Skinner and
other top modeling experts.
A variety of popular subjects are covered, including:
• Valentine bridge-layer. • Figure vignette.
• B-26 Marauder. • PZL.11 fighter.
• Scratchbuilt Duca d’Aosta • And more!
Italian destroyer.

Buy now from your local hobby shop!

P35515

#12811 • $24.99
Shop at KalmbachHobbyStore.com
Sales tax where applicable. Modeling World War II in Europe will arrive in June 2019.

www.FineScale.com 5
 Builder
BASICS

BUILDING HULLS
& subassemblies
With a trimaran hull and stealthy shape, the
USS Independence looks cool cutting
through the Gulf of Mexico during July
2009 builder’s trials. Clean lines and
uncluttered surfaces make for a relatively
easy introduction to ship modeling. U.S.
Navy photo

Part 1 of 4: We use a littoral ship for teaching ship building basics

BY AARON SKINNER

I
build a lot of different kinds of models — civil and Independence littoral combat ship showed up that I felt
military aircraft, armor, cars, science fiction — but it’s inspired to get my feet wet.
been a long time since I set out to build a ship kit. As The Independence is a good choice for a first ship. The
a kid, all of the small parts were difficult to handle and I oddly shaped hull has clearly defined decks, making
was never happy with the way those clunky models looked masking and painting easy. The number of small parts is
with misaligned or broken parts. During the time I’ve not overwhelming. Similarly, the photo-etched metal is
worked at FSM, I’ve planned to build another maritime not excessive. There aren’t a lot railings, which minimizes
subject, but it wasn’t until Trumpeter’s 1/350 scale USS frustration while still providing a challenge.
6 Build Better Ship Models
 1 2
Ship kits usually consist of a couple of large hull and deck parts plus Most new ship kits include photo-etched metal. The delicate brass parts
several sprues of details. Trumpeter’s Independence is no exception. are great for replicating small-scale railings, ladders, vents, and tie-
Before starting construction, I looked over the parts and instructions. downs, but they can be fiddly. We’ll look at them in more detail later.

3 4
Sometimes, kit instructions don’t seem to have been written by Double-check the instructions for locators that may need to be opened
modelers. On a ship model, the hull and decks almost always require prior to closing the hull. The Independence has several small round holes
clamping and sanding. I’ve seen instructions in which hull assembly is starboard of the superstructure, two rectangular cutouts on either side,
the last step, after all the fragile parts are installed — a risky sequence. and two optional holes on the helicopter deck for the UAV pad.
Don’t be afraid to go your own way and put the hull together first.

5 6
I chucked a mini drill bit in a pinvise to open the circular holes. To find I flipped the part over and sliced the burr of plastic from each hole with
the right size, insert the bit in the flashed-over hole until you find one a sharp hobby knife held flat against the surface.
that fits snugly without chewing up the sides. Then simply turn the
pinvise until the bit pops through.

www.FineScale.com 7
 7 8
To improve fit, I put the tip of a No. 11 blade into the hole and rotated it The square holes required a slightly different method. I could have
to remove the lip of plastic around the edge. Be careful not to bore the drilled pilot holes, but instead I held the tip of a No. 11 blade against
hole too big. each side of the opening and gently pushed it through. I removed the
burr with the blade and fine sandpaper.

9 10
Dry-fitting to test part placement is always a good idea. On the The culprit turned out to be the remains of a sprue attachment point
Independence, many of the body parts butt to form sharp edges. Testing along the upper edge. I removed it with a medium-grit sanding stick,
showed the bridge front insert wasn’t perfect. running it along the edge, rather than across, to prevent creating an
uneven spot that would leave a gap and require filling.

11 12
To attach the part, I held it in place and touched a brushful of liquid The hull inserts feature nasty ejector-pin marks that would be obvious
cement to the join and let the glue run along the seam. After a few on the finished model. To fill them, I found a punch that matched the
seconds, I pushed it lightly into the gap to ensure a tight fit (but not marks’ diameter to produce disks of .010" styrene I glued into place and
hard enough to push molten plastic out). This minimizes sanding later. sanded flush.

8 Build Better Ship Models

 13 14
To smooth rough plastic left after sanding, I brushed Testors liquid Finally, before joining the hull halves, I sanded off mold seams around
cement onto the parts and let it sit. It melted ridges and gouges in the the bow and ejection marks between the hulls. They were fine enough
difficult-to-sand area. that a few strokes of a sanding stick was all it took.

15 16
The hull halves fit pretty well, but the upper part needed to be Then I pressed the two parts together hard and held them for several
stretched just a little to meet the lower. To make things easier, I joined minutes while the plastic melted along the seam.
the parts in sections starting at the bow. To ensure solid structure, I
applied a bead of Testors cement along the joining surfaces.

17 18
Rubber bands strapped around the hull held the bow together as the The next day I applied liquid cement to the hull seam, starting from the
glue set overnight. Be careful with rubber bands: If you strap them on front and working 2 inches at a time, squeezing and holding as I went to
too tight they can distort the parts and cause mismatches along seams. produce a neat, clean seam. After adding the stern plate, I let everything
cure overnight. FSM

www.FineScale.com 9
 Builder
BASICS

WORKING WITH
small parts & PE basics
I
Part 2: Detailing the masts, weapons, n this second part of metal lends finesse to a
and radar systems “Builder Basics” I’ll get model that plastic just can’t
into adding fine details to achieve. But, it’s also fiddly
BY AARON SKINNER our sample ship, Trumpeter’s and easy to mess up or lose
sharp-looking 1/350 scale during construction.
USS Independence LCS-2. All of that means special
The littoral combat ship’s care should be taken during
simple shapes and lines, along construction. I assembled
The USS Independence with a minimum of photo- some small parts, such as the
(LCS 2), approaches etched (PE) metal, offer Phalanx CIWS, gun turret,
Naval Station Mayport,
Fla., for a port call in
novice ship modelers a good and smoke launchers, but left
April 2010. Independence introduction to the genre. them off the model for
was en route to Norfolk, In the first part I assem- painting. Other items, such
Va., for initial testing bled the hull. In this segment as the helicopter deck lights
and evaluation. I’ll touch on weapons, masts, and PE tie-downs, were
U.S. Navy photo
and radars. That means deal- attached before painting. I
ing with small parts and PE. based those decisions on
I have a love/hate relation- whether or not the parts were
ship with the latter. I think it going to be painted the same
looks great, because the thin color as the surrounding deck
or hull. If not, I left them off
until later.
 1 2
Before adding delicate parts — plastic or metal — to the model, it’s a I took care of some messy joins — mild overlaps and glue residue —
good idea to make sure all the heavy handling is done. Check for gaps with a few swipes of 1000-grit sandpaper. Work gently and sand with
between panels. I filled a couple of minor openings on the Independence the sides to avoid creating flat spots along the edges.
by flowing thin super glue from the end of a toothpick.

3 4
Small-part tools: I put a new No. 11 blade in my hobby knife and I cut larger small parts, such as the turret, off the tree with sprue cutters.
made sure I had pointed tweezers, a fine razor saw, and good sprue Placing the flat edge of the jaws close to the part minimizes sanding
cutters handy. and cleanup.

5 6
Even small parts, like the gun, may have mold seams to remove. I used a Tweezers can help place a part, but I find a wooden toothpick handy for
No. 11 blade to gently scrape the blemish from the part. You also can pushing delicate parts into place. The softer wood has some give and is
use a sanding stick, but be careful not to press too hard and break parts. less likely to damage the plastic than metal.

www.FineScale.com 11
 7 8
To control flyaway parts, I apply a piece of low-tack tape to the sprue Then I can peel the part off with the tape. It still pays to be gentle, as the
and press the part into it before cutting it off with sprue cutters. part can come off the tape if you bend it too abruptly.

9 10
While the part is still on the tape, I place it on a hard, flat surface and With the part cleaned up, I install it on the ship’s mast with tweezers. I
trim any remaining plastic at the attachment point. add a drop of liquid cement — just enough to make it tacky enough to
hold the parts — to the attachment points before positioning the part.
Once it’s in place, I add a little more glue to secure it.

11 12
Sometimes, what a tiny part really needs is a handle. Clip the sprue Now you have a little more control, and the part is big enough to
about ½ inch from the part so you have more to hang onto. position by hand. Once the glue dries, gently clip off the handle with
sprue cutters or a razor saw.

12 Build Better Ship Models

 13 14
Thin parts like antennas might break if removed with sprue cutters. Attach thin plastic parts like this antenna with super glue; it’ll secure the
Gently saw the part off with a razor saw to avoid bending parts. part without melting or distorting the delicate plastic.

15 16
To remove a PE part from a fret, place it on a hard surface. (A soft As long as the blade is sharp, you can pick up the part by gently
surface, such as a cutting mat, allows the part to bend.) Then, place a pushing the knife tip into it. (Make sure it’s still on the glass.) Now
new, sharp blade against the edge of the part and slice through the transfer the part and locate it on the model. For the tie-downs, I applied
attachment point. If the blade is dull, it may damage the part. a little thin super glue to the holes before placing the parts.

17 18
For items like the ladders on the ship’s side, I place the part, then flow a If you need to bend small PE parts, arm yourself with a pair of pointed-
little thin super glue from the tip of a toothpick. Assembling or tip smooth-jawed pliers. They allow you to get a good grip on the part
attaching all of the small parts takes time and patience. and produce a crisp bend without scratches. FSM

www.FineScale.com 13
 Builder
BASICS

PRIMING,
masking, painting
O
Part 3: An airbrush and masking tape ur “Builder Basics” ship series uses
are key in this step Trumpeter’s 1/350 scale USS Independence
littoral combat ship to demonstrate all the
BY AARON SKINNER techniques you’ll need to complete a ship model.
Earlier, in Part 1 you learned to assemble the tri-
maran hull and other major components. Part 2
focused on adding details, both plastic and photo-
USS Independence arrives at Mole Pier at Naval Air Station etched metal.
Key West in March 2010 on the way to Norfolk, Va., for initial In this segment we’re off to the paint shop where
testing and evaluation before sailing to its homeport in San
Diego, Calif. Modern navy ships are gray, but that’s not the we’ll have fun airbrushing various grays and using a
whole story (as Aaron discovered). U.S. Navy photo lot of masking tape.

14 Build Better Ship Models

 1 2
After all the details and photo-etched metal were added, my Remember to prepare the rest of the small parts for priming and
Independence was ready for paint. You could apply the top coat directly painting. Some parts were painted while they were still on the sprues. I
to the model, but I recommend priming. Not only does it help cover used poster putty to attach small subassemblies, such as this mast and
inconsistencies caused by the different materials, but primer reveals turret, to a sheet of cardboard for painting.
more gaps and rough spots.

3 4
I taped the photoetched-metal frets to another piece of cardboard. Mr. Surfacer 1000 is expensive, but it covers extremely well and
Don’t forget to flip the frets over after the paint dries so both sides get produces a solid foundation for paint. I used a spray can for general
sprayed. coverage.

5 6
Primer revealed gaps around the funnel assembly; I filled them with Lightly sand the primed surface before applying paint. I used a fine
thin super glue applied with a sharpened toothpick. I just touched the sanding stick (3200-grit). This removes roughness as well as any dust
seam, and capillary action pulled the glue along the line. I gave the ship and fuzz that may have settled in the wet primer, leaving a velvety
another coat of primer after correcting such gaps and blemishes. smooth surface that’s receptive to paint.

www.FineScale.com 15
 7 8
Lightly run a tack cloth over the model to pick up any sanding residue. Modern U.S. Navy ships are painted haze gray; Testors neutral gray is a
You can find them at hardware and auto-supply stores, but I prefer the good match. I used Model Master enamel neutral gray mixed with
ones from Testors; they are less tacky and won’t leave a sticky residue on Model Master enamel thinner; I added two parts paint to one part
your model. Be careful not to snag delicate parts with the cloth though. thinner.

9 10
I set the air pressure at about 20psi and set the nozzle on a Badger 200 Then I opened the nozzle to a wider pattern and turned up the pressure
single-action airbrush to a narrow spray pattern to paint nooks, to 25psi for airbrushing the rest of the model.
crannies, corners, and other hard-to-reach areas first.

11 12
Looking at photos like the lead image in this article, I noticed the hull is With the pressure set to 15psi, I sprayed thin vertical and horizontal
not a uniform gray but a patchwork of different shades. I added a few lines on the hull sides, keeping them as straight as possible to match
drops of flat white to neutral gray and, testing on paper, set the nozzle photos.
to the finest line possible.

16 Build Better Ship Models

 13 14
The contrast looked a little stark, so I misted a 1:2 mix of neutral gray I masked the helicopter deck with Tamiya masking tape and airbrushed
and thinner across the hull to soften everything. Don’t spray mixes with it Model Master gunship gray. Be careful applying tape around the
a lot of thinner too heavily or they may damage the paint. delicate photo-etched metal on the superstructure — it’s easily crushed
or removed by the tape. I burnished the tape only along the paint edge.

15 16
The lower hull on the Independence is all black rather than the more- Look at the model head-on to verify that the lines match from port to
common oxide red with a black boot stripe. You’d think that would starboard. Clearly they don’t in this image — so, I repositioned the tape
make things simpler. But masking around three hulls and keeping along the port side of the main hull.
everything straight is no mean feat. Constantly refer to drawings and
double-check reference points to be sure the alignment is right.

17 18
I started spraying with a fine line along the edge of the tape masks. This Removing the tape as soon as the paint is touch-dry also minimizes the
helps seal the mask to prevent paint from bleeding under it, and it chance of a ridge forming along the masks. After a few touch ups, the
minimizes the ridge that might form along the edge if you lay the paint Independence was ready for detail-painting and final assembly. FSM
on too thickly.

www.FineScale.com 17
 Builder
BASICS

APPLYING
decals, fiddly bits
Part 4: Adding details like decals and
photo-etched metal railings put
the finishing touch on a ship
T his wraps up the “Builder Basics” series for creating a fine ship
model, no matter your experience level. In this final segment
we put the emphasis on small details to give your ship a fin-
ished, realistic look.
So far you’ve learned how to build the hull and other major
BY AARON SKINNER components, add small parts and photo-etched (PE) metal
that help detail modern ship kits, and then paint the vessel,
after carefully and properly masking it.
With the decals and small parts in place, Aaron’s 1/350 scale Now it’s time to paint tiny details and apply decals before
littoral combat ship is ready to take to the sea and proves
that ship modeling doesn’t have to be impossible.
adding the last of the parts, including PE metal railings.

18 Build Better Ship Models

 1 2
First it’s time for a little detail painting and it’s best done by hand Based on the kit’s instructions, I painted the hangar doors and the
because many of the components are tiny. I used Testors Model Master conical object on the ship’s top aircraft gray. Thinning the paint slightly
enamels for all painting, including the hatches and boxes on the flight helps it flow from the brush better and minimizes brush strokes.
deck, which I colored neutral gray to match the hull.

3 4
I used flat white for the radar dishes on the bridge roof and mast as well The Independence is covered with vents — represented in the kit by tiny
as the SeaRAM anti-missile defense system. PE parts — that look different from photo to photo. To set them apart
from the hull, I painted each dark ghost gray.

5 6
I painted the recessed squares on top of the superstructure with thin The next day, I airbrushed the model with Testors Glosscote to provide a
black enamels letting it flow into the corners rather than having to push smooth surface for decals. I used Testors lacquer thinner and sprayed
the brush into them. several thin coats to build up the shine.

www.FineScale.com 19
 7 8
The kit’s comprehensive decal sheet has bridge windows, foredeck I started with smaller decals such as the hull numbers. Experience with
walkways, and all of the flight deck’s stripes, including the large Trumpeter decals taught me it’s best not to pre-treat the area with
rectangle and center stripe. Unfortunately the latter has markings inside setting solution, or the marking can’t be moved. Instead, I flood the area
the shapes so it’s difficult to slide it off the backing paper in one piece. with water and float the decal into place then blot it with a cotton swab.

9 10
The walkway decal that goes around the missile launcher on the front Rather than trying to get the largest flight-deck decal aligned at once I
deck is printed without clear film in the center but it’s still a tight fit. I cut cut it into several parts and applied the center stripe and circle first
through it so I could wrap it around with little risk of damaging the lining it up with the stripe between the hangar doors. I left a little of the
decal. side stripes at each junction to aid their placement. Keeping the decal
wet gave me plenty of time to get everything straight.

11 12
While the surface was glossy, I applied a wash of thin lamp black artist I airbrushed a generous layer of Testors Dullcote to kill the shine and
oils to the vents to deepen the shadows and make them appear to be seal the decals.
open.

20 Build Better Ship Models

 13 14
I added the remaining plastic parts such as the life rafts, smoke The PE railings are provided in flat sections that need to be bent to fit. I
dischargers, turret, CIWS, and this crane using tweezers for precise measured the sections with dividers, then transferred the information
placement and thick super glue to allow for adjustments. to the railing and bent it to fit. Most needed a little fine-tuning, but be
careful not to bend a piece too many times to avoid breaking the part.

15 16
I tacked the railing in place with short pieces of automotive masking Next I brushed accelerator on the railing, concentrating it around the
tape from an auto parts stores. Use as few pieces as necessary to hold tape (left). It sets the glue instantly, and dissolves the adhesive on the
the part and be sure the part’s bottom is in-contact with the deck. Apply automotive masking tape. Then you can lift the tape off using the tip of
thin super glue to the join allowing capillary action to pull it in place. a hobby knife without damaging the delicate railing (right).

17 18
For complex shapes, such as the railing on the foredeck that goes The PE nets around the flight deck attach to the hull just below the
around the missile tubes, I placed the bent metal part in place, then edge, so there’s no easy way to tape them in place during gluing. I
glued a section at a time, fine-tuning the alignment as I went. dipped the edge of the part in a shallow puddle of thin super glue and
held it in place with tweezers until the glue set. A little glue run along
the seam reinforced the join. That finished the build. FSM

www.FineScale.com 21
13 tips
for building
great ships
Award-winning modeler
Inspired by the 1953 movie, The Cruel
Sea, about British convoy escorts during
World War II, as well as a visit to the HMCS
Sackville in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, Kevin
describes his techniques built the HMCS Fennel. The model is a conversion
of Matchbox’s 1/72 scale Flower-class corv-ette with
BY AARON SKINNER photo-etched and white-metal details from David J.
MODEL BY KEVIN WENKER Parkins (www.djparkins.com), as well as a lot of scratchbuild-
ing. Not only is the model big — 34 inches long — it’s packed
with detail and realistically weathered.

22 Build Better Ship Models

K
evin Wenker’s HMCS Fennel attracted a lot of more delicate. It also blends in better with
attention several years ago at an IPMS/USA national photo-etched brass, which is seldom thicker
than .010 inch.”
convention in Omaha, Neb., and collected its share of
awards, including best ship and Popular People’s
Choice. Kevin started with Matchbox’s 1/72 scale Flower-class 5 Use white glue as filler
Kevin uses full-strength white glue
(such as Elmer’s) to fill gaps. He says it fills
corvette, converting it to the Canadian navy’s Fennel with photo- well, conforms to the area, and rarely needs
etched (PE) metal and scratchbuilt parts. Along the way, he used sanding because you can smooth it with a
damp finger. “I find it’s really good for any
several unique techniques that he happily shared with FSM. gaps between horizontal and vertical parts,”
Kevin says.

1 Plan ahead
“I have learned the hard way to plan
ahead in my shipbuilding,” Kevin says.
two-part epoxy putty smoothed with a
damp towel. He reinforced the joins with
5-minute epoxy applied inside the hull. 6 Working with styrene
Scratchbuilding the superstructure
“It is easier to lay out a plan of action to with styrene corrected errors in the kit.
account for the various features of a ship
than to try and go back and correct them
after the fact.”
3 Blocking see-through holes
After filling several portholes not on
the Fennel, Kevin glued sheet styrene inside
Kevin used a tip gleaned from the late Ben
King, a m odel railroader: Ben cut the sty-
rene sheet to size after attaching it, making
He also advises breaking such a large the remaining portholes. He later filled a perfect fit each time. “For example, I built
undertaking into small subassemblies to those portholes from the outside with the lower superstructure using two length-
prevent confusion and frustration. It also 5-minute epoxy to represent glass, then wise pieces cut to shape for the curve of the
provides a sense of accomplishment and an painted them over per wartime practice. deck and scribed for the plating,” Kevin
incentive to continue as you see progress “The reason I filled them with epoxy was, explains. “I then glued pieces of styrene
being made, he says. He established daily even after painting, the sheen through the sheet across the front and rear of the two
goals, taking into account the various parts paint was slightly glossier compared to the long pieces, forming a rectangular box.
and subassemblies, so the project did not hull,” Kevin says. “Once the glue dried, I used a new sin-
seem so overwhelming. He glued sheet styrene vertically gle-edge razor blade — I have more control
between the hawse pipes so observers with this [than a long-handled hobby

2 Strong hull construction

Kevin built the corvette’s
couldn’t look through the bow. knife] — to trim those pieces to match the
lengthwise pieces.” Not only does this
four-piece hull by filling
the seams with
Milliput
4 Scale appearance
The keel, porthole eyebrows, and hull
plate were out of scale, so Kevin thinned
method allow Kevin to save time — no
tedious and error-prone measuring and cut-
ting and fitting — but also it is more accu-
them with a hand-held orbital sander and rate. After lightly sanding the edges, Kevin
progressively finer grits. primed the bare styrene pieces with thin
He replaced the kit braces and ladders Mr. Surfacer.
with Plastruct styrene stock. “My experi-
ence in building ships has shown that the
smaller the cross section or thickness
of braces, masts, bulkheads, lad-
7 Working with photo-etch metal
“I really like forming and assembling
photoetched metal,” Kevin says. “Using the
ders, etc., the better and more right tools and methods helps immensely.”
to-scale the model looks,” First, he washes the PE parts with soap
Kevin says. “I almost and water while they are still attached to
always build under- their sheets or frames. Then he rubs them
size by 10-20%, with white vinegar, etching the metal
as it looks slightly to aid paint adhesion.
He airbrushes the parts before attaching
them to the model. By painting them
before installation, the parts’ small details
and engraving are better preserved. Some of
the paint will come off during bending, but
it’s easier to touch up the chips than paint-
ing the parts in place.
Kevin removes parts from their frets
with fly-tying scissors, rather than a hobby
knife. Knives often warp or kink metal parts
and complicate bending or folding. The
scissors also produce a square edge.
To fold the parts, Kevin uses the Hold
and Fold from The Small Shop and the
Etch Mate from Mission Models. He also
has a pair of flat-jaw pliers, which have

www.FineScale.com 23
 their sides ground square, to fold small
parts. To get sharp, straight bends, Kevin
uses a 2x3x1½-inch chunk of copper (steel
or aluminum would work as well) with per-
fect 90-degree edges. He uses the copper to
push against the part in the bending tool.
The Fennel has more than 3,000 PE
parts, many of them identical. Kevin
built in assembly-line fashion, switching
to other subassemblies when the work
became tedious.
Kevin replaced flat PE metal with
round or square brass or styrene stock,
when appropriate, to better represent the
full-size parts.

Almost all of the detail on the deck of the Fennel is either PE or scratchbuilt. That includes the
weapons, weapons mounts (above), and even the decks themselves (below). 8 Applying super glue
Kevin prefers medium viscosity super
glue for most applications. He places a
couple of drops on an old CD or DVD,
transferring it to the model with a short
piece of .010-inch brass wire, an applicator
that gives him a lot of control, especially
when running super glue along a long
seam. Then he applies accelerator with a
sharp wooden skewer.

9 Painting
Kevin prefers painting the main hull
and superstructure prior to adding details.
On the Fennel, it provided a cleaner edge
for details and let him weather the hull to
achieve the appearance of corvettes operat-
ing convoy escort duty in the North Sea.
He painted the decks medium dark gray,
masked, and painted the non-skid areas
dark gray. He painted the hull brick red
below the waterline and off-white above.
The light blue camouflage is a mix of
Tamiya white and blue.
“Weathering, for me, begins with the
painting,” Kevin says. “Each time the air-
brush cup runs dry, I slightly change the
tint before refilling the cup. Sometimes I
add a little white, sometimes a little dark
gray with no set ratio. This produces the
random fading I see in most ship pictures
from WWII.”

10 Painting wood
To recreate the wooden surface on
the PE forward deck, Kevin painted
Tamiya desert sand, then covered it with
burnt sienna, raw sienna, and burnt umber
oil paints. “I had no set ratios, I just dabbed
and stroked the different colors randomly,”
Kevin says. After 30 minutes, he wiped the
deck with a soft rag front to back to pro-
duce a wood color and texture.

11 Weathering
Kevin masked the waterline with 3M
painter’s tape, then set the hull in a large

24 Build Better Ship Models

plastic tub. In two bottles, he mixed artifi-
cial turpentine and artist’s oils — raw
umber in one, burnt umber in the other. He
brushed these washes very liberally on the
decks and let the excess run out the scuttles
the same way seawater washing over the
ship would pour out of the scuttles. Doing
this over and over, reusing the runoff from
the tub, produced vertical staining beneath
the scuttles, recreating the effect he saw in
pictures of real corvettes.
After coats of Pledge Floor Gloss
(PFG) and decals, Kevin applied rust using
acrylic and oil paint. Based on pictures of
rust and firsthand observation of corrosion
on vehicles and storage tanks, Kevin deter-
mined that rust has sharp-edged lines of
demarcation, rather than being smeared on.
Kevin brush-painted a mix of Model
Master tar and red brown using small, jerky
strokes. “I made no effort to be uniform in
the paint mix — some areas were darker,
some more brown, some of the interior
areas had no paint beyond the base coat,”
Kevin says. “I did make sure that the strokes
were smooth.”
Next, he dabbed burnt sienna artist oils
over the painted areas. “I made no effort to
be uniform or worry about smooth strokes;
some areas were stippled,” he says. After 30
minutes, he wiped the paint off with vary-
ing pressure. “I went back and wiped off
most of the oil paint from the non-rusted
areas adjacent to the rust painted areas,”
Kevin says. After two days drying, the rust
had a three-dimensional, flaky effect.
Kevin added dark gray rub marks in The scalloped lifelines along the sides of lifeboats presented Kevin with a challenge, because
areas the paint would be worn. Then, he there were no obvious attachment points. He used HO-scale wire lift rings, drilling holes for each
applied a raw sienna wash to the hull plat- in the side of the boats, then gluing in the rings and threading the thread through the eyes.
ing that dried to a subtle, faded appearance.
He ran a wide brush loaded with raw
umber wash along the edge of the hull at
the deck and along the gunwale and let it
run down the hull. “Once dry, I lightly
sanded across the plating, lightening the
center of some plates — almost like a
reverse pre-shading,” Kevin says.
“I sprayed the model with Testors
Dullcote to kill the shine and even every-
thing out,” Kevin says. In places where air-
brushing Dullcote was impractical, such as
the bridge with its clear windows, Kevin
applied a thin wash of white glue with a
drop of detergent.

12 Canvas, floater nets, and

other details
Corvette bridges had railings covered with
canvas, so Kevin cut white facial tissue to
fit. “Cutting tissue is difficult,” he warns. Pictures of wartime corvettes often show soda cases — empty and full — stowed under the aft
“Use sharp scissors, keep tension on the tis- 2-pounder gun tub. Kevin gleaned several from model railroad supplies, modifying each slightly
sue in all directions, and be prepared to do before attaching them. Note the weapon’s open muzzle; Kevin bores each open with a Mini-
it several times to get a usable piece — Dremel motor tool.

www.FineScale.com 25
 growing a third arm would help.” He
soaked each piece of tissue in thin white
glue with a drop of dish soap added to
remove surface tension, then applied it to
the railing. The tissue shrinks as it dries
becoming taut across the rails.
He made floater nets by threading round
beads on thick brown thread, soaking it in
the thin white glue and draping it across
scratchbuilt stanchions heat formed from
Plastruct I-beam.
He built the flagstaff from brass wire
and made pulleys from thin styrene disks
(made with a Waldron punch-and-die set)
stacked and glued.
As if the detail wasn’t enough, Kevin’s weathering makes the Fennel come alive. Repeated washes The Canadian flag was scanned from a
of artist’s oil recreate the effects of constant seawater on the ship’s decks and hull, a reminder of photo, printed on bond paper, soaked in the
the brutal conditions these ships served under in the North Atlantic. white glue, and glued to the flag line.
Life vests on the bridge were formed
from small rectangles of styrene connected
After a failed attempt to use a cast-metal with straps cut from wine bottle lead foil.
mast, Kevin scratchbuilt a replacement from Tie downs for the oars in the lifeboats and
brass tube. The mast bracing is .005-inch rafts were made from thin strips cut from
monofilament leader from his fly-fishing tinted bond paper.
vest, colored by running a Sharpie over it
several times. The stack bracing was .003-
inch monofilament, and the radio wires from
the mast to the rear radio shack were made
13 Enjoy!
Have fun, Kevin says. “I enjoyed
HMCS Fennel so much, I am building
from .005-inch monofilament, with sleeves another, earlier version of a Canadian-built
from Bob’s Buckles to form the turnbuckles. Flower with all the minesweeping details
Note also, the hull is discolored with and the short forecastle,” he adds, advising
multiple artist oil washes. modelers to challenge themselves. “Never
settle for less than your best effort, and
build for your own enjoyment, not to win
contests.” FSM

Meet Kevin Wenker

Kevin, 68, has been
building models since
he and his dad built a
Strombecker wood
B-24 in the early
1960s. “Ships are my
absolute favorites, as I
love doing the photo-etch and all the
fine detail,” he says. Kevin, a Lutheran
pastor, lives in Peoria, Ariz., with his
wife, Cathy. He has two daughters, Keri,
46, a doctor, and Sarah, 44, a business
executive, and a son, Joshua, a U.S.
Navy commander, recently skipper of
VAW-116. He offers one final tip, join a
local modeling club for friendship and
fellowship, but also so you can get
honest feedback on where your mod-
els need to improve, and they will!
GALLERY

▲ ELIAS ALI
HONOLULU, HAWAII
Aircraft carriers are always fasci-
nating because so much seems to be
going on aboard, especially during wartime.
That’s what Elias created here with Fujimi’s 1/700
scale IJN Shōkaku as it appeared in 1944, shortly before
it was sunk. Elias sprayed the kit with Tamiya Sasebo gray
(TS-67) and added a variety of photo-etched parts to
increase realism. He also added Fine Molds’ 25mm anti-
aircraft guns to the carrier, along with modifying the deck
for a proper wooden appearance. The Shōkaku took part
in the raid on Pearl Harbor and the Battle of Coral Sea. It
was sunk June 19, 1944 in the Battle of the Philippine Sea.

▲ MIKE FLECKENSTEIN
FREDERICKSBURG,
VIRGINIA
The Germans created a variety of midget sub-
marines during World War II, initially planning to use
many to guard against an Allied invasion of Europe. Mike
has created his version of the Biber German midget sub-
marine from the 1/72 scale Special Hobby kit, using air-
brushes to apply Tamiya paints over primer. To weather
the sub he also used oil washes and pastels to give it the
ocean-going look you see here. Mike also scratchbuilt an
interior and made his own base out of oak. The midget
subs could carry only two torpedoes and a crew of one.

www.FineScale.com 27
 Ship
PAINTING
TIPSA colorful account of
World War I Germany’s SMS König
BY ALFONSO MARTÍNEZ BERLANA

S
uccessor to the Kaiser-class in a single day at Scapa Flow, just a week
dreadnoughts, SMS (Seiner before the Treaty of Versailles formal-
Majestäts Schiff, or His Majesty’s ized Germany’s surrender.
Ship) König was the namesake of its ICM Models has produced a won-
class and the first of four such battle- derful kit of the König. The addition of a
ships Germany launched in 1913-14. photo-etched (PE) details kit from
The König (King) was faster and Tom’s Modelworks completes a detailed
more heavily armored than the Kaisers. depiction of this mighty battleship of
The highlight of its short career was the German Hochseeflotte (High
against the British fleet in the 1916 Seas Fleet).
Battle of Jutland, the greatest naval
engagement of World War I, where it
suffered 10 hits resulting in seven weeks’
worth of repairs. On June 21, 1919,
seven months after the armistice ended
the war, König and her three sisters
were scuttled by their own crews

28 Build Better Ship Models

ICM Models’ kit, a PE detail set
from Tom’s Modelworks, and
the author’s artfully applied
painting techniques make a
showy schlachtschiff
(battleship) of World War I. The
SMS König was one of four
ships in its class.

www.FineScale.com 29
 1 2
Alfonso says the PE kit’s instructions are cryptic and must be thought The base coat is an airbrushed mix of Tamiya acrylics, light sea gray
through to the end. With few exceptions, he installed the PE before (XF-25) and deck tan (XF-55). This flat base improves adhesion of
painting it. “Take your time,” he says, “and you won’t be obliged to take subsequent layers of hand-brushed acrylics and artist oil washes.
pieces back off as I did.”

3 4
Next, Alfonso masked above and sprayed the lower hull with a mix of Tamiya thin masking tape produced clean lines of demarcation
Tamiya flat red (XF-7) and hull red (XF-9). Wait at least an hour before between the hull red below and the hull gray above, with a blank spot
applying masks to fresh paint, he advises. in between where Alfonso airbrushed a boot stripe of Tamiya flat black
(XF-1).

5 6
Vallejo acrylics are great for hand-brushing: Here, Alfonso paints deck The funnels and upper masts are Tamiya flat black. The two hull-colored
planks with Vallejo tan yellow (912). Hand-brushed Vallejo mahogany lines at left are the anchor-chain races. Alfonso used a fine brush to
brown (846) replicates non-skid linoleum deck surfaces. paint the rails Vallejo dark gray (994), then proceeded to dark washes.

30 Build Better Ship Models

 7 8
Washes deepen recessed details and weather the finish. Alfonso uses Alfonso’s turrets demonstrate his painting process. From left: 1) Tamiya
black and burnt umber artist oils with mineral spirits for thinner, which base coat; 2) Vallejo dark gray (994) on the top, hull red (985) on the
will color or tint without cutting through the acrylic colors underneath. rafts; 3) a black wash overall; 4) thinner blends the wash and brings
Heavier touches of rust are tinged with Humbrol scarlet matte (60). raised details into greater relief.

9 10
Alfonso used a circle-cutter and thin Tamiya tape to make masks he cut A light, thin coat of the Tamiya base mixture on the vertical surfaces,
out for painting air-recognition marks on the tops of two turrets. and similar, hand-brushed layers of the deck colors blend other effects
into the finish. Sundries such as anchors, boats, cranes, and towers were
painted off the model, then added. The battle flag is from a Revell kit.

With stretched-sprue
rigging super glued
and Kriegsmarine
battle flag flying,
Alfonso’s König
begins its reign. He
enjoyed building the
model, but noted,
“It’s a pity there are
no ships of its time
from other nations
to oppose it in my
display cabinet.” FSM

www.FineScale.com 31
 Do-it-yourself
WATERLINE HULL
Learn how to make your full-hull ship kit a waterline model /// BY TED BUNN

W
aterline ship models have become popular in larger scales, but,
for a long time, kits with a waterline option typically came in
1/700 scale or smaller. Many of us have larger-scale ships in our
stashes that don’t offer the waterline display, which means cut-
ting the hull: a daunting prospect to be sure.
However, it doesn’t have to be. Using a methodical approach and tools every
modeler should have, anyone can convert a full-hull ship model for waterline
display.

Many of the larger scale ship kits in

Ted’s stash are full-hull affairs.
However, he’s developed a method to
convert them into waterline models,
like he did with this Heller 1/400 scale
Graf Spee.
 1 2 3
On some models, the waterline is marked with Ted carefully runs a scribing tool along the “Continue to use the scribing tool until you see
a raised line on the hull. It’s up to you to decide hull, using the labeling tape as a guide. He a thin line on the hull’s inside,” Ted says. “You
how high or low you want your ship to sit in makes several passes to cut a deep groove. could cut all the way through with the scribing
the water. Once satisfied with the waterline tool, but it’s easier to finish with a razor saw.”
location, mark it with plastic labeling tape.

4 5 6
Starting at the bow and working Once the cut is complete, you Ted glues the hull halves together, temporarily taping the deck in place
toward the stern, Ted cuts along have the beginnings of a to ensure proper alignment.
the groove with a razor saw. “If waterline ship model. But it’s not
you find the cutting difficult or the ready yet.
saw binds, go back to the scribing
tool and cut deeper,” Ted says.

7 8 9
To make sure the hull halves match along the Ted adds a waterline plate to stiffen the ship’s He cuts along the line with a pair of scissors.
waterline, Ted sands the cut edges even with a sides and add an illusion of depth in the water. “No need to be exact,” he says. Make sure to
sheet of coarse-grit sandpaper taped to his First, he traces an outline of the hull on .030- leave some space around the edge for final
workbench. inch styrene sheet. shaping.

10 11 12 13
Ted super glues the hull to the Trim the waterline plate’s excess Once the plate is almost even with Then, assemble the ship as usual.
waterline plate and allows the plastic with a sharp hobby knife. the hull, Ted starts shaping it with You can attach the model to a
assembly to dry overnight. coarse sandpaper, shifting to finished wood base or create a sea
medium, and then fine to finish it for the ship to sail through. The
off. Use putty as needed. choice is yours! FSM

www.FineScale.com 33
 How to build a
BATTLEWAGON
Deepening the art of Texas
BY BILL PLUNK

Launched in 1912, the

USS Texas was already a
throwback by World War II.
But the Mighty T shone big
and bright in both the
Atlantic and the Pacific,
earning five battle stars.
Hailing from El Paso,
Bill Plunk had to build
Trumpeter’s 1/350 scale kit.

A
s World War II 60th anniversa-
ries scroll up on the calendar,
there has been an explosion of
new kits of all kinds — espe-
cially ships in 1/350 scale.
Such is Trumpeter’s kit of the New York-
class battleship USS Texas, BB-35 (No.
05340). Being from the Lone Star State
myself, this was a must build. couldn’t follow them blindly from start to
Even though the kit depicts features finish and get the best results. Skipping
that date from October 1944, after a refit around within the steps was essential, so I
and subsequent transfer to the Pacific, I developed a checkoff system on the instruc- nation of the kit-supplied bulkheads, rub-
decided to depict Texas in the Measure 22 tion sheet to avoid missing anything. ber bands, and bar clamps, along with a
scheme she wore for most of the war while combination of tube and liquid glue in stra-
in the Atlantic Fleet. I grabbed an after- Hull tegic spots. Left overnight in traction, the
market set of Master turned-aluminum and The primary assembly module was the hull. hull set nice and solid, 2.
brass barrels for New York-class ships, along Split in half lengthwise, it had over-scale The stern details for the propulsion gear
with a copy of Squadron at Sea: USS Texas, molded weld lines. I sanded these down to were added next. I replaced the kit’s plastic
by David Doyle, as my main reference. make them more in- drive shafts with
I knew the Measure 22 scheme would scale. Vertical lines lost brass rod for greater
complicate things. So, the first order of
business was a careful study of the instruc-
in the sanding were
rescribed using a
2,800 strength and durabil-
ity, 3. The shafts and
tion sheet and planning for a “modular” metal ruler and a
Pounds of ordnance rudder were left
approach to assembly, painting, and finish- sharp pushpin to delivered by a two-gun removable to avoid
ing. The 37 steps outlined in the instruc- restore lost detail, 1. salvo from one of damaging them during
tions will get it all together, but I knew I Getting a solid Texas’ 14-inch guns. the rest of the build.
join was a combi- Test fits of the main

34 Build Better Ship Models

 1 2
After sanding away overscale lines, Bill rescribes them. Though there are Persuasion, gentle and otherwise: Rubber bands help distribute the
fancier tools, he gets it done with a pushpin and straightedge. force of the clamps.

Sprue

3 4
Straighter and stronger is the name of the game as brass rod replaces Segments of sprue runners spread and strengthen the hull for a better
plastic propeller shafts. fit with the deck.

5 6
After a flat black prime coat, Bill airbrushed insignia red for the Masking the red and the proper amount of black, then airbrushing 5-N
antifouling red. navy blue, masking again, and airbrushing 5-H haze gray at the top
produced the boot stripe and upper-hull colors.

www.FineScale.com 35
 7 8
Bill airbrushed horizontal surfaces 20-B deck blue and vertical surfaces The 5-inch guns on the sponsons received Master Model brass barrels.
haze gray. Dry-brushing medium gray highlighted details.

9 10
Deck blue was followed by careful masking and an airbrushing of haze It’s more rubber bands, more clamps, and more ship as Bill glues down
gray. the decks.

deck sections revealed the top edge of the install them until after the main deck was cement secured them. Side bulges for the
hull needed to be spread slightly in places. I in place. secondary gun mounts completed the first
glued in thick segments of sprue runners as major module of the build.
spacers, 4. Hands on deck
I painted and detailed the decks, airbrush- Order of assembly/painting
Commence painting ing wood areas with 20-B deck blue and When building ships with multiple decks
All paints are Testors enamels except where adding Ammo of Mig Jimenez’s “Blue and superstructure elements, I work from
otherwise noted. I began the hull with an Filter for Dark Gray” to slightly shift the the bottom up and the inside out.
airbrushed coat of Testors Model Master tone from that of the adjoining steel decks. I started with the 02 deck components,
flat black enamel that served as a primer, Wearing an Optivisor and wielding a fine which include six 5-inch guns. Master
pre-shading, and a simple way to create the detail brush, I hand-brushed Model’s turned-brass gun

3
boot stripe. I masked the bottom edge of gun tubs and other ele- barrels replaced the kit’s
the boot stripe and airbrushed insignia red ments on the deck with barrels, 8. I airbrushed 02
to create the antifouling layer, 5. Then I haze gray. To bring out deck components and the
masked the top side of the boot stripe and some of the molded detail Number of 03 deck above it with deck
airbrushed 5-N navy blue, 6. Another in the deck blue, I dry- grand pianos blue, then masked with small
round of masking, then airbrushing with brushed with medium strips of tape cut to size using
5-H haze gray, completed the hull’s gray, 7. equal in weight a cutting mat, metal ruler, and
Measure 22. I airbrushed sponsons for the With spacers to a two-gun a sharp No. 11 blade, to pro-
5" guns in the secondary armament sepa- installed, the decks fit 14-inch salvo tect odd angles and areas. Haze
rately to match the hull, since I couldn’t tightly; liquid styrene gray was airbrushed where
from USS Texas.
36 Build Better Ship Models
 Pinwashed
details

11 12 13
Bill assembles the forward superstructure from The tripod comes last; if the decks are straight, A burnt umber pinwash lends subtle emphasis
the bottom up, adding PE rails one level at a the tripod is true. to molded details.
time.

14 15 16
Throughout the ship, it’s deck blue, masking, Looking aft, PE and styrene details accumulate Again, burnt umber pinwashes deepen
then haze gray. But the funnel top received flat on the roundhouse and secondary tower. recessed details.
black.

17 18 19
Bill assembled and test-fitted the guns in their Airbrushed deck blue and hand-brushed haze With the guns mounted, Bill stepped outside
tubs, then pulled them back out for painting. gray readied the 40mm quads. the tubs to erect more PE rails and ladders.

needed on the decks, 9, along with the No. dealt with separately, including adding pointed brush and touching up with clean
2 turret barbette and 5-inch guns. The guns photo-etched (PE) railings. The PE rails thinner, 13. A coat of Testors lusterless flat
were installed and the decks secured along were individually shaped into their complex clear dulled and unified the sheen. Then, I
with the No. 2 barbette. Rubber bands and curves and angles, hand-painted, then could permanently install the superstruc-
clamps helped level everything while the installed, 11. Levels were permanently ture. I left off the fire-control structure for
glue set, 10. stacked one at a time; then PE ladders were the time being.
formed, painted, and installed. Finally I
Forward superstructure could add the tripod legs and their support- Fitting and proper
The forward superstructure builds up ing structures and railings. The pass- Moving aft on the 02 deck, several small
around a tripod mast and multiple deck through holes in the deck ensured they structures, ammo lockers, and other details
levels. After preparing the main levels and were true, 12. are installed, along with the funnel and the
structural components, I airbrushed deck With all the levels fully integrated, I air- secondary tower. Tight spaces require test-
blue, masked, and followed with haze gray. brushed Pledge Floor Gloss (PFG) and fitting to prevent problems. These were air-
Three different levels of construction applied a pinwash of thinned burnt umber brushed deck blue, masked, and airbrushed
went into the superstructure module, each enamel, picking out details with a 10/0 haze gray; the funnel received extra atten-

www.FineScale.com 37
20 21 22
For now, the bow area provides plenty of Aluminum barrels replaced the plastic on the At the stern, turrets 4 and 5 are lined up aft of
space to mount 20mm guns, anchor chains, turrets. No. 1 and No. 2 are mounted the barbette for No. 3, which will have a
and various fittings. temporarily on their barbettes for test-fitting. seaplane catapult.

23 24 25
While he was airbrushing the turret and barrel Then he masked and airbrushed haze gray on While building the mainmast tripod, Bill
tops deck blue, Bill brought more deck surface the same pieces. shuttled the subassembly in and out of
around for the same color. position between turrets 3 and 4, checking
position and clearance for all three elements.

tion for its cap, which I airbrushed flat With this area secured, I shaped, sion for the turrets, I touched up the aft
black, 14. painted, and installed PE between the tubs, superstructure and deck components at the
I shaped and hand-painted the PE using tweezers in some of the tight spaces, same time as the turrets, 23. This also
roundhouse structures for the secondary 19. meant more masking before I could air-
tower and fire control before combining brush haze gray, 24.
them with styrene components to complete The bow and big guns The turrets were fully assembled and left
their assembly, 15. PE railings around the The next module was the bow area, which to sit overnight in their mounts so the guns’
back of the 02 deck were shaped, painted, received all of its various fittings as well as elevations would hold. I kept the full turrets
and installed. four of the single 20mm guns, which I in all four mounts removable to maintain
A coat of PFM, followed by burnt built, painted, and mounted in their tubs, maximum flexibility throughout the rest of
umber pinwashes and a coat of lusterless 20. Anchors, chains, and PE grate covers the deck detailing.
flat, finished the small fittings as well as the were hand-detailed and installed next to
funnel and secondary tower, 16. Then I take advantage of the open space available Dancing with details
mounted the funnel and tower on the deck. before the big gun turrets come into play. The next module involved a complex dance
One goal of modular construction is to It’s not a battlewagon without big guns with the No. 3 turret, the aft mainmast tri-
maintain ease of handling for as long as — and Texas has ’em! Each of the five tur- pod superstructure, and the No. 4 elevated
possible during the build. Moving out from rets mounts two 14-inch guns. Because No. turret barbette.
the center of 02 and 03 decks, I saved the 3 turret also mounts a seaplane and cata- I built up the lower half of the main-
40mm quad and single 3-inch guns for the pult, I saved it for last. mast tripod, including the railings and
anti-aircraft tubs for last because they are I worked on the other four turrets as a details required to hold the tripod legs in
so delicate and easy to snag, 17. group and replaced the kit’s barrels with alignment, 25. The No. 3 turret’s barrels
I replaced the 3-inch gun barrels with Master’s turned-aluminum barrels; I test- were built up and test-fitted with the bar-
the Master turned-brass barrels. The 40mm fitted each turret to check the rels aimed level, along
guns were assembled in whole, including barrels for elevation clearance, with the PE seaplane
their PE back braces, for easier painting. I
hand-painted the 3-inch guns haze gray; the
21, 22.
The barrels were airbrushed
255 catapult, to ensure
everything would play
40mm guns were first airbrushed with deck with a primer coat of Italian
Number of nice, 26.
blue, then hand-painted with their haze gray dark brown, reducing the like- 14-inch shells There were also 50
components and to pick out details such as lihood of paint lifting after fired by Texas in different small fittings
the recoil springs, 18. Precise pinwashes of masking for the Measure 22 34 minutes installed on the aft main
burnt umber enhanced other details before scheme. Taking advantage of deck that needed to be
the guns were mounted in their tubs. the airbrush deck blue ses- prior to the included in the Measure
D-Day landings.
38 Build Better Ship Models
26 27
There’s not much extra room between No. 3 turret and its seaplane Details continue to proliferate on the aft main deck, including Carley
catapult, the mainmast tripod, and No. 4 turret. floats on the turret sides. Bill kept everything removable as long as he
could to be able to test fits.

28 29 30
Guns upon guns: Turrets 2 and 4 each mount If you like PE, you’ll love the radar atop the aft Boat cranes combine PE and kit plastic.
six 20mm weapons. tripod.

31 32 33
Bill painted the cranes off the model and kept All that fragile PE is why the fire-control Rigging with black EZ Line, Bill begins at the
them removable as long as he could to attach structure was saved until the end. One false yardarm with lines for the signal flags.
all the stuff around them. move could ruin that yardarm’s day.

22 scheme. I cleaned them up and prepped hand-painted and added to the turret All five turrets and the tripod received their
them for paint, along with the No. 3 turret’s mounts at this stage, 27. sequence of PFM, burnt umber pinwash,
parts. Then it was time again for deck blue, The Mighty T bristles with 44 individual and lusterless flat. Then the No. 4 barbette
masking, and haze gray. The No. 3 turret 20mm guns. I tackled these in several shifts, was permanently installed.
was then fully assembled and the PE cata- depending on where they were installed. I built up the two boat cranes at this
pult components permanently attached. The first batch of 18 were added to the No. point, 30, and — once again — airbrushed
Keeping the tripod structure and the 2 and No. 4 turrets, 28, along with the aft them deck blue, masked, then airbrushed
three aft turrets removable definitely made tripod and the elevated platforms at the tri- haze gray, 31. I kept them dry-fit to avoid
life a lot easier when it came to installing pod base. complications. The mainmast tripod was
all those fittings on the rear deck! Small The tripod received the rest of its levels, permanently installed on the main deck in
details, such as the Carley floats, were including the large PE radar antenna, 29. anticipation of the rigging.

www.FineScale.com 39
34 35
Another line runs from fire control to the jack staff on the bow. Rigging on the aft tripod includes a line that runs to the fire-control
structure on the foremast.

36 37
Bill finally glued down the whale boats and their cranes. More guns, anyone? Anti-aircraft guns line Texas’ stern. Bill placed the
rails first, then dropped the guns into their tubs.

On to rigging and more fittings add the boat cranes and whale boats, 36. ing Metalizer brass. Careful light passes
It was time to move to the foremast tripod with lusterless flat removed the gloss to
and complete the fire-control structure. I Aft end and weathering make the sheen consistent.
installed all its PE details top and bottom, After I shaped, painted, and mounted the I airbrushed the hull with PFM and
including the delicate yardarm, 32. These aft deck rails, I added the remaining aft decaled the hull number on the stern. I
details were hand-painted with haze gray deck anti-aircraft guns to their tubs, 37. didn’t want to heavily weather Texas, so the
and treated with PFM, pinwash, and lus- Starting on one side at the boat cranes and focus was mostly below the waterline, 39. I
terless flat. I attached the top to the tripod working aft, I mounted the remaining four applied dot filters using burnt umber, rust,
with styrene cement and let it sit overnight 40mm guns, a score of 20mm guns, and and leather to create streaking and tonal
so it would be rock solid for the rigging. four 3" guns in their tubs. Then variations. A burnt
I worked the rigging in multiple stages I added the final rigging line, umber pinwash on haze
using EZ Line fine black elastic thread and
super glue. First came the 10 signal-flag
connecting the mainmast to
the stern, and seated turrets 4
13/3,000 gray portions of the hull
picked out portholes and
lines, run from the yardarm to the 03 deck, and 5. I painted the propul-
Range in miles other features, 40.
33. Then I shaped, painted, and installed sion gear and rudder and of Texas’ 14-inch
the bow railings along with turrets 1 and 2, installed them so they could guns; in yards And an OS2U, too
which made it possible to run the rigging be included in the weather- while firing at That left just one last
line to the jack staff at the bow, 34. The aft ing, 38. A light wash of detail: the OS2U
tripod was rigged next, 35, including the thinned burnt umber German Kingfisher seaplane for the
connecting line to the foremast fire-control bronzed the propellers and defenses above No. 3 turret. I dealt with it as
structure. Doing that cleared the way to toned down the non-buff- Omaha Beach a separate little build; it’s all

40 Build Better Ship Models

38 39 40
Propulsion gear is attached to be part of the Dot filters add depth and a degree of wear to Burnt umber pinwashes pick out portholes
weathering below Texas’ waterline. Bill Texas’ hull plates. and other molded features.
“bronzed” the propellers with a burnt umber
wash.

41 42 43
The Trumpeter kit features a Kingfisher With the visual aid of an Optivisor, Bill One more good reason to keep the turrets
seaplane molded in clear plastic. airbrushed the plane and hand-painted the removable: It was easier to position the plane
canopy frame. off the model.

PE crane arms, catapult

Aluminum barrels PE radar

for 14" guns

Measure 22
disguises Brass propulsion gear
ship’s sheer
PE rails all around Brass gun barrels Weathered hull

More than 100 years old, the USS Texas is a relic of the dreadnought era. But she fought with distinction through two world wars. Now a museum,
she stands proud at her berth in San Jacinto State Park near Houston.

clear plastic and has its own paint scheme, more putty on the canopy and airbrushed To provide a permanent stand for USS
41, 42. I kept the pontoons separate and lusterless flat to dull the finish without fog- Texas, rather than the kit’s plain plastic
masked clear areas for the canopy with blue ging the canopy. I donned my trusty base, I had drilled holes in the hull bottom
poster putty. The upper surfaces are air- Optivisor and hand-painted the canopy at the beginning of the build in anticipation
brushed sea blue, light gray covers the frame with a steady hand and a 10/0 pointed of this moment. I used a pair of aged cop-
undersides, and RLM 78 hellblau serves for brush. I added a scratchbuilt radio mast and per drawer knobs that I found in the hard-
intermediate blue midsections. After pulling a bit of EZ Line for the aerial, then carefully ware aisle of a home improvement center.
the putty from the canopy, I airbrushed the super glued the Kingfisher onto the catapult, Once I screwed these into the hull bottom,
plane with PFM and applied the decals, 43. Then the No. 3 turret was permanently USS Texas was on her feet and ready to
then over-coated with more PFM. I put installed as the final module. report for duty! FSM

www.FineScale.com 41
Sculpting rough seas
Shape waves, wake, and spray to put ships in stormy weather /// BY CHRIS FLODBERG

T
here’s something truly magical Meet Chris Flodberg
about seeing a model ship
A professional artist, Chris were shown
depicted at sea. But there are sig- lives in Calgary, Alberta, alongside his
nificant technical issues to overcome for Canada. He returned to mod- paintings at
realistic results, as anyone who has ever eling after years away when the Military
he set out to create a series of Museums of
modeled an ocean scene can attest. large-scale ship paintings. The Alberta. “The
A seagoing diorama comprises three models served as references first time I
components — basic sculpt, waves, and for paintings, but building saw a realistic depiction of a
them quickly grew into a pas- ship at sea in small scale, I was
paint — and each element must be realis- sion. His models and dioramas hooked,” Chris says.
tic for the illusion to work. I wanted an
easily replicable method using easy-to- Trumpeter’s 1/350
obtain materials to reproduce just about scale HMS Repulse
any type of sea. cuts a realistic line on
a simple base of
I lived and breathed this problem every foam, paint, and
day for two years and produced a heap of rayon.
really poor sea bases until I figured out
what worked. I spent hundreds of dollars
and thousands of hours experimenting
with just about every material I could get
my hands on.
I continue to experiment, but I’ve dis-
covered techniques that produce a range
of realistic ocean surface conditions. The
following description is my go-to method
for choppy-to-rough seas.
 1 2
The technique starts with foam insulation, in this case a 1-inch thick I cut nearly all the way through the foam along the outline. I keep the
piece. I place the ship where I want it and trace around it with a pen. cutout in place for the next two steps to protect the opening edges.

3 4
Using a broad, wire cup brush in a drill, I make eye-shaped gouges in It is important to even out unusual peaks or holes at this stage or they
the foam. Keep them running in the same can become permanent flaws and spoil the finished model.
direction and vary the size of the
grooves so they look like waves.

5
Thoroughly vacuum the foam, your workspace, and your clothing to
keep debris out of the paint to come.

www.FineScale.com 43
 6 7
I coat the entire sea with a generous layer of clear gloss acrylic medium. While the medium is wet, I lay a single, long piece of paper towel over
the sculpted foam, taking care to avoid tearing the paper.

8 9
I gently press the paper towel into the waves with my fingers. Before the underlying layer dries, I liberally apply more medium, taking
care not to brush or press too hard to avoid wrinkling the paper.

10 11
I squeeze air bubbles from under the paper with my fingers to ensure a Once everything is dry, trim the paper from the opening for the ship
snug fit against the foam. Again, avoid creating wrinkles that will spoil and the outer edges of the base.
the realism of the waves.

44 Build Better Ship Models

 12 13
Next, I apply several coats of artist acrylic gesso to the surface. Always After more than a dozen coats of gesso, the sea looks smooth, most of
brush in line with the grooves so any brush marks will be going with the the towel texture is gone, and it’s ready for paint. I sand debris out of the
waves rather than against them. finish.

14 15
I base-coat the sea with a mix of phthalo blue, black, and white acrylic Guided by photos, I airbrush dull, mint green to suggest subsurface
paint; I would describe the resulting color as denim. churn created by the ship. The color is a mix of white and turquoise with
a tiny bit of black to dull the shade.

16 17
I seal everything with a clear flat acrylic to prevent subsequent layers For white-water effects, I use medical rayon balls (far superior to cotton
from affecting the mint green. balls). You can pull the fibers between your fingers to create webs.

www.FineScale.com 45
 18 19
I attach the rayon fibers with Liquitex high-gloss varnish, a watery clear, While the medium is wet, I place a web of rayon.
shiny finish. First, I brush a little on a spot where I want to attach the fluff.

20 21
Lightly applying medium with a brush causes the strands to bunch up Brushing on more medium tamps the rayon onto the surface of the sea.
and become coarser. The results can be quite realistic.

22 23
Once the rayon is on, I coat the entire base with multiple layers of Once the ship is in place, I patch the crack along the waterline with
Liquitex high-gloss varnish. Gluing wooden blocks into the hole makes rayon and gloss medium. I like to create an up-and-down undulation
attaching the ship easier. along the waterline to suggest the movement of water. FSM

46 Build Better Ship Models

GALLERY

▲ SEAN FALLESEN
DOWNEY, CALIFORNIA
Launched in 1910, the USS Delaware BB-28 was designed
as a dreadnaught style battleship complete with ten
12-inch guns. Sean’s 1/700 scale version of the Samek kit ▼ JIM STUTE
is modeled as the ship would have appeared in 1912. TEMPE, ARIZONA
Sean did a lot of extra work to give it such impact, start- Hard as it may be to imagine, Jim says this 1/144 scale
ing with the addition of brass main gun barrels and 3-D Revell U-375 Type VII-C German U-boat is an out-of-the-
printed cage masts and photo-etched railings. The ship box build. This class of sub could dive 750 feet, but that
was airbrushed with an Iwata Revolution and Sean used was not enough to keep it from being sunk in the
Testors Model Master enamels. He says he masked Mediterranean Sea on July 30, 1943. Jim did all the paint-
between airbrushing the main areas and hand-brushed ing by hand, using tube oil paints over a Tamiya black
deck fittings, the superstructure, and decks. He also undercoat. Pre- and post-shading also were employed.
weathered the ship between gloss and dull coat layers, Jim says he diluted the oils before stippling them on the
adding oil washes and Ammo by Mig Jimenez sub until he had achieved the look he was after. He adds
rust pigments. that the sub build was a nice break from all the figures he
had been painting!

www.FineScale.com 47
Once Adm. Isoroku Yamamoto’s
flagship, the Japanese Navy’s Nagato
was relegated to coastal defense by
June 1945. Harvey modified
Hasegawa’s 1/350 scale kit to model
the battleship’s final wartime
configuration.
Build
HASEGAWA’S
NAGATO
in late-war trim
Scratchbuilt anti-aircraft positions and photo-etched metal
bolster the Japanese battleship’s defenses and details
BY HARVEY LOW onversions do not have to be intimidating. Complex

C models can be made easier through sound plan-

ning and simple techniques. This project con-
verts Hasegawa’s 1/350 scale Nagato from the kit’s 1941
configuration to show what the battleship looked like
in the closing months of World War II.
Hasegawa’s impressive kit brings 1,000 pieces together in
a 2-foot-long model. Hasegawa released three detail sets for
the Nagato: an upgrade set with resin boats and metal barrels
for the main guns; photo-etched metal railings; and a set
of PE details.

www.FineScale.com 49
 1 2 3
To correct (or at least minimize) heavily Barnacles or algae? Actually, it’s Humbrol Harvey removes Maskol with tape. He toned
engraved hull-plate detail, Harvey glued Maskol. Harvey weathered Nagato’s lower hull down the garish appearance by airbrushing
styrene rod into several of the horizontal lines by applying different shades between random streaks of thin Tamiya hull red.
to represent raised weld seams. applications of Maskol.

4 5
Before painting the deck, Harvey scratchbuilt an anti-aircraft position at After painting a base of Tamiya dark yellow, Harvey masked selected
the Nagato’s stern using sheet styrene. planks with thin tape, then airbrushed dark yellow mixed with white.

Research, research, research handle the model as I work my way to the After spraying the hull and deck with
Good planning is key in an ambitious con- upper structures. Tamiya fine white primer and correcting
version. Individual ships can vary consider- The engraved pattern on the bulges and flaws, I applied an overall coat of Tamiya
ably, depending on the period represented. armor plating was wrong, with deeply spray-can olive drab (TS-28). Next, I
After determining the time you want to recessed panel lines for raised weld seams. brushed on Humbrol Maskol liquid mask
model, acquire as much data as possible on Rather than filling everything with putty, I in random, downward strokes, then applied
the vessel at that date and note all major glued .5mm styrene rod along some of the a coat of Tamiya linoleum deck brown
modifications. horizontal recesses, 1, and softened the oth- (TS-69), 2. After another Maskol applica-
I wanted to build the Nagato as a coastal ers with weathering. tion, I finished with Tamiya dull red
defense ship at Yokosuka naval yard just Before gluing the hull halves together, I (TS-33). The Maskol came off easily with
prior to her last combat in July 1945. trimmed the polycaps (P1) to better fit Part masking tape, 3 – but the lower hull looked
While line drawings and profiles are G12. I added a strip of .030" (.75mm) sty- like a disco ornament! Airbrushing thin
useful, they are sometimes based on artistic rene on top of bulkhead G4 for a flush fit shades of hull red toned it down.
interpretations. I prefer photos as primary with the deck. I needed a little putty at the I airbrushed Tamiya acrylic semigloss
references for color, camouflage patterns, bow and a strip of .010" styrene between clear to protect the paint from washes of
and structural dimensions. The ship was deck parts B3 and F6. Otherwise, minor raw umber, burnt sienna, and Venetian red
well photographed after her capture by the sanding and Mr. Surfacer 500 were suffi- artist’s oils. After sealing with another clear
U.S. Navy. cient to finish building the hull. coat, I masked the hull below the waterline.
I left the deck fittings off, preferring to
The hull paint them separately later. Using a No. 62 Decks: wooden and linoleum
I always assemble and paint the hull and bit in a pinvise, I deepened the portholes I assembled the bridge base and second
main deck first, then mask off the area for a better effect, taking care not to drill all level but left them separate to paint the
below the waterline. This makes it easier to the way through. wooden decks.

50 Build Better Ship Models

 6 7
More masking and a darker shade of dark yellow resulted in a Harvey added a scratchbuilt boiler room behind the funnel, detailing it
multicolored deck. Misted coats of the lightest shade softened contrast. with model railroad tread plate and kit guns.

Photos showed a triangular gun shortened to improve the anti-aircraft guns’ Six simple tips
emplacement at the stern deck. I scratch- field of fire. After assembling the funnel
built it using scale drawings provided in the and attaching it to its base (parts S1, S8, Here are six simple yet important tips
kit as a template. I omitted the deck fittings and S9), I cut off the cap with a motor-tool that will make complex projects more
(parts M9, M10) in that area, armed it with circular saw, removed a 12mm section from enjoyable.
extra anti-aircraft guns from the kit, and the middle, and reattached the cap. The
added a .010-inch styrene-strip gun shield, excision meant I no longer needed to install 1. Become thoroughly familiar with the
4. the upper walkways, but I shortened the instructions before you begin cutting
After a base coat of “tan” – I used ventilation pipes (parts S6, S7, S35, S36, plastic. Develop a plan of attack; while
Tamiya dark yellow – to represent teak, I S38, and S39). Note that funnel cap S4 following instructions is always sound
applied lengths of .75mm JammyDog should be replaced with Part S40 if you use advice, there may be alternative
masking tape randomly over the deck, using PE set QG16; PE Part MA18 is used with sequences that make better sense for
the plastic’s engraved lines as a guide, 5. I Part S40. your project.
mixed white into dark yellow, airbrushed In 1945, a boiler was installed just aft of
the decks, then added more tape strips. I the funnel superstructure to provide heat 2. Inspect all parts beforehand and cor-
mixed a darker shade by adding black and and furnish steam to the galley. I built the rect flaws such as sinkholes and ejec-
dark brown to dark yellow and airbrushed a boiler room from .030-inch styrene panels tor-pin marks.
final layer, 6. I misted the unmasked decks and installed it over the rear of the funnel
with the lightest shade to blend the colors, base; I had to trim its walls slightly so the 3. Lay out all the sprues in sequence to
sealed with a clear, then “stained” the wood structure fit snugly. On the roof of the make finding parts easier. I pin the
with a wash of raw umber artist oils. boiler room are two twin anti-aircraft guns sprues to a wall with clearly marked
I painted the aircraft deck Tamiya spray- surrounded by an .010-inch styrene strip labels.
can linoleum deck brown (TS-69). Then I shield. I super glued S&S Hobby Products
airbrushed a thin mixture of Tamiya lino- E-Z Safety Tread to the roof, then added a 4. Place a large white towel on the
leum deck brown (XF-79) and brown (X-9) tall ventilation pipe and a small adjoining floor. This will help locate those pesky
along aircraft handling rails and raised structure made from a block of styrene to parts that fly off the table.
lines. A final coat of diluted XF-79 (a the starboard side, 7.
warmer shade than TS-69) blended the 5. Dry-fit all parts, particularly PE items
colors. Searchlight platform that will require bending prior to
Next, I masked the deck with Tamiya The kit-supplied searchlight towers were installation.
tape cut to shape on a sheet of glass. I solid moldings, so I thinned the plastic
masked around as many molded-on fittings from behind with a grinding stone in a 6. Build the model in subassemblies to
as possible and planned to hand-paint the motor tool, 8, and cut out the areas aid painting. Attach parts, including PE,
remaining ones later. This is tedious but between the cross members with a No. 11 into assemblies that can be painted as
well worth the results! I primed the hobby-knife blade, 9. Then, I assembled the a single component in one color. Avoid
remaining areas with Tamiya flat black searchlight platforms (parts S2, S3, S27, adding too much to a component,
(XF-1). and S28) separately. because it can be hard to reach all the
Using the searchlight mounts (parts details.
Funnel structure Q37 and Q38) as a base, I scratchbuilt an
During the Nagato’s refit, her funnel was anti-aircraft platform to mount above the

www.FineScale.com 51
 8 9 10
To improve the kit’s solid-molded searchlight He made quick work of the newly thinned To form the anti-aircraft platform wrapped
supports, Harvey grinds much of the plastic plastic, cutting away the excess from the around the funnel, Harvey drew its outline on
away from the back side of the parts. framework with a sharp blade. a folded piece of paper.

Templates for anti-aircraft positions

1/350 scale Turret anti-
Dry-fit and trim parts to refine shapes aircraft position
(x2)

13mm
Large anti-aircraft platform (x1) Stern deck anti- Searchlight platform
aircraft position (x1) anti-aircraft gun tubs (x1)
3mm 23mm
12mm

31mm Aft superstructure

44mm

gun tub (x2)

m

Note: The Notched

45m

octangonal shape to fit

is also the basis for around
the shape of the structure
upper gun tubs on
the aft 14mm
40mm diameter
superstructure
30mm (x2)

searchlight platform (Part S10). I folded a the searchlight platform. I added triple gun Bridge tower
piece of paper in half, then drew one half of mounts to the third-floor decks (parts R11 To make it easier to paint, I built the for-
the gun tub, using the fold as the centerline. and R12), then extended them under the ward superstructure, or “pagoda,” in deck-
Cutting it out and unfolding the paper gave mounts with .030" styrene. I used .015- x level sections, 12.
me a symmetrical shape I used as a tem- .250-inch styrene strips, cut and bent to The upper DF loop was replaced with a
plate on .030" styrene, 10. I added guns and match the new floor edges, to enclose the photoetched-metal Type 21 radar unit from
a .010" styrene strip shield, then dry-fitted deck up to the fourth level. my spares box. (One from a 1/700 scale
this platform to the funnel structure but Circular gun tubs (14mm in diameter) Yamato works well, or you can use Lion-
left it off to paint it separately. made of .030-inch styrene with .010-inch Roar’s 1944 conversion set.) I installed the
Some of Nagato’s 20mm gun mounts styrene strip shields were added to the rear radar, sandwiching tiny styrene strips for
and searchlights were moved to land instal- of the third floor; I notched the tubs to fit framing, and replaced railings with .010-
lations in early 1945, and many of the around Part Q16 and added twin anti-air- inch styrene to simulate armored shields.
remaining guns and searchlights were craft guns. Attaching two 3⁄64-inch styrene
moved port-side to face an anticipated rods to the undersides of the tubs and sides Large anti-aircraft platform
attack. The kit provided just enough 25mm of the lower tower replicated the structural One of the major additions in 1945 was a
guns and ammo bins to equip the new gun supports. large platform just aft of the main super-
platforms, leaving some starboard mounts As with her funnel, Nagato’s tripod mast structure for six triple 25mm guns. I
empty. was cut down to clear a field of fire. I hol- scratchbuilt it as a subassembly using .030-
lowed out the mast, then cut according to inch styrene. I applied E-Z Safety Tread to
Aft superstructure references – photos show the legs were cut the platform, as well as a small blockhouse
After attaching parts R4, R19 and R20 to at different heights. Finally, I made an air- made from a chunk of styrene 21mm long x
R3, I cut off the large forward rangefinder craft derrick from styrene rod and attached 10mm wide x 7mm high. After detailing
mounts on Part R3 and replaced them with it in a downward position, 11. the platform’s underside with styrene sup-
anti-aircraft gun tubs similar to those on port beams, I added two 21mm-long 2mm

52 Build Better Ship Models

 11 12
Harvey pruned the aft mast, then added anti-aircraft gun tubs and Unlike the rear mast, the bridge tower needed little modification.
armor shields. Harvey added new radar and replaced rails with solid barriers.

13 14
Harvey built the large anti-aircraft platform from sheet, strip, and rod Before adding turned-metal gun barrels, Harvey attached photoetched-
styrene, detailing it with kit guns and ammo lockers, and extra metal railings and scratchbuilt anti-aircraft platforms.
photoetched-metal doors and hatches.

plastic rods as supports that fit into holes in and Hyuga – but definitive information is color provided additional depth.
the deck where the 9-meter lifeboat hard to come by. I interpreted black-and- I hand-painted random camouflage
(AE39) would have been, 13. Small sup- white photos to determine the patterns and patches on the superstructures with Vallejo
ports for the platform at the opposite end color combinations. Sources suggest cam- medium sea gray (158), and used Vallejo
were added to Part J13. I omitted parts ouflage nets and wood scaffolding were paints for other details, too: windows on
AE19 and AE34, as they would obstruct added around the funnel and turrets to dis- the deck hatches (medium blue); AA gun
the installation of the anti-aircraft platform. guise the ship’s shape. I omitted these for magazines (Panzer uniform black); and
Additional AA platforms were installed lack of photographic evidence. railing canvas (off-white).
on Nagato’s No. 2 and No. 3 turrets. I repli- I painted and weathered the subassem-
cated them with a 13mm x 24mm sheet of blies separately, priming all parts with Weathering
.030-inch styrene and added .010-inch Tamiya flat black. Layering thin coats – By mid-1945, war-weary Japanese ships
shields and two triple anti-aircraft guns, 14. 60% thinner, 40% paint – over the black still in service were far from pristine. I
Tiny styrene shims leveled the platforms. primer left shadows in recessed areas, pro- achieved a dirty, worn appearance with a
viding depth. I intentionally applied paint series of hand-brushed filters that provide
Painting sporadically, allowing some black to show. tonal variation. If you don’t have a flat or
Late-war photos of Nagato show a hard- Tamiya IJN Kure Arsenal gray (XF-75) satin finish, the effect will be lost. Filters –
edged camouflage scheme. Some sources is the base color. The other three colors for unlike washes – are supposed to cover sur-
-suggest she was camouflaged in grays, the hull camouflage are Tamiya dark gray faces evenly and not collect in recesses. I
browns, and olive to blend into the shore – (XF-24), khaki (XF-49), and olive drab mix filters much thinner than washes –
as on other Japanese battleships, such as Ise (XF-62). Airbrushing varied shades of each 95% thinner and 5% paint – and prefer

www.FineScale.com 53
enamels (in this case, Model Master mixed
with Humbrol thinner) over an acrylic base.
My filters consisted of dark blues and
light grays over the grays; tan over khaki;
and green over olive drab. I applied them in
light coats and streaks.
I flowed an oil wash of raw umber
mixed with blue-black into recesses, using a
thicker wash on the anchor chains and hull
near the waterline. While the wash was still
a little wet, I removed most of it with a
brush dipped in clean thinner.
Next, I lightly dry-brushed the model
with pale gray.
After removing the masking from the
lower hull, I used a pencil to add tiny chips
along the waterline. The waterline was
sprayed with a diluted mixture of Tamiya
clear orange (X-26), clear blue (X-23), clear
green (X-25), and a touch of brown (X-9),
to simulate an algae-infested waterline. I
applied rust around the anchors using an
artist’s oil wash of burnt sienna with a
touch of orange. (Keep the rust to a mini-
mum.)

Final touches
I airbrushed the PE deck railings on the
frets, then attached them and the accom-
modation ladders with super glue. I bent
the parts first, then applied glue to each
stanchion, working my way the length of
the railing. I touched up places where the
paint flaked off.
Next, the fun part: installing all the sub-
assemblies, remaining deck fittings, and
flags. The funnel assembly must be installed
to the deck first and then the searchlight
platform, before installing the forward
superstructure.
Tiny figures – all 200 of them – from
Fujimi and L’Arsenal were added at each
stage. It’s a good idea to glue figures on as
you attach the subassemblies so they appear
throughout the ship – under overhangs and
behind railings – not just in open areas.
I super glued thin, stretched sprue for
rigging (black for standing rigging, beige Scratchbuilt gun tubs, PE details, nicely done camouflage, and a multitude of tiny figures bring
for running rigging). After misting on Harvey’s Nagato to life.
Model Master Acryl semigloss clear, I
attached the remaining clear parts with References
Weldbond glue.
A year and 2,000 parts later, I had a IJN Nagato – Pacific War Series Nagato-Mutsu (Vol. 2): Monografie
beat-up battlewagon, a model of a weary No. 15, Gakken Books Morskie No. 52, Miroslav Skwiot, AJ
warship that’s a little different from the IJN Nagato - Tabular Record of Movement, Press
pristine Imperial Japanese Navy subjects www.combinedfleet.com/ Japanese Warship at War (Vol. 1),
I’m used to seeing. nagatrom.htm, Bob Hackett, Sander Waldemar Trojca and Hans Lengerer,
This isn’t a project for beginners. But if Kingsepp, and Lars Ahlberg Model Hobby and Air Connection Books
you plan and take your time, such an ambi- “Nagato,” Model Art magazine, Novem- Mysteries/Untold Sagas of the
tious project will be easier. Remember to ber 2007 Imperial Japanese Navy – Nagato’s
enjoy the process. FSM Nagato-Mutsu: Monografie Morskie Last Year: July 1945-July 1946, Tony
No. 5, Miroslav Skwiot, AJ Press Tully, www.combinedfleet.com

54 Build Better Ship Models

GALLERY
▶ SAMUEL X. PARENT
WINONA, MINNESOTA
And now for something completely different. Samuel
scratchbuilt this WWI SC-1-class 110-foot sub chaser from
the deck up. The hull is from a 1/64 scale 1940s Marine
Model Company solid wood kit with basswood deck
planks. The deck housing and deck gun are made from
scrap brass tubing and all lights on the ship are
glass beads. Samuel used a single-stage air-
brush to apply Testors Model Master
paint. Some detailing was hand-
painted and the base is
made from oak.

▼ RICHARD SLIWKA
WARRENSBURG, MISSOURI
Who doesn’t love the old Union ironclad, the USS
Monitor? Richard does and created this beauty from a
1/350 scale Samek kit. He made it his own by adding a
canvas top to the steamship’s turret to reflect its look in
1862. Richard airbrushed it with Polly Scale acrylic paint
after priming the body with automotive primer. After the
model was complete he added post-shading to the ship’s
deck plates. For the record, the Monitor’s famous battle
with the Confederate CSS Virginia went down on March 9,
1862 in the Battle of Hampton Roads.

www.FineScale.com 55
Superdetailed schnellboot
The boat was fast — but Fred Brinks’ model took three years

S
treamlined and speedy, Germany’s World War II torpedo but the lower hull of Revell’s kit and spend 2,200 hours over three
boats fascinated Fred Brinks. “I liked their looks, and they years on the project.
were easily the fastest thing on the water,” he says. Even the Revell part he did use came in for major changes. He
Although his initial interest in schnellboots was impulsive, once reworked the stern to correct the propeller-shaft housings, rerouted
he got Revell’s 1/72 scale kit in hand he took his time. An architect all three rudders, and reshaped the propellers. At the bow, he
and pro modeler from North Hollywood, Calif., Fred is all about slightly reshaped the lower hull but scratchbuilt the upper portion.
the details: Correcting everything he could, he would discard all Much of the modification was related to his desire to show the

56 Build Better Ship Models

 Revell’s 1/72 scale schnellboot provided only the lower hull
of Fred’s model — he scratchbuilt the rest, mostly from
styrene. The ensign came from Archer Fine Transfers, but
the other markings are airbrushed through stencils.

torpedo tubes open. He turned styrene tubing on a lathe to get friend Dave Krakow and his website, www.prinzeugen.com, for
exact dimensions. “You can only get the styrene in rough sizes,” he numerous photos and answers to questions about details.
says. “If you look inside the starboard tube, you’ll see a torpedo It may seem like a lot of trouble, but that’s just the way Fred
in there.” rolls — right down to 3,000 rivets individually hand-pressed in
He scribed sheet styrene to replicate decking. The color of the .005-inch sheet styrene and dimpled with a dull needle. Rather
dark gray decks is dead-on, says Fred, who was advised by his than waterline the hull, he made cutouts in a sheet of Plexiglas as
friend Randy Short, of Snyder & Short, American distributors of well as a top sheet of clear acrylic that he painted with a custom
White Ensign Colourcoats. “He is the authority on World War II mix of enamels. His color guide was the water around USS
paint,” Fred says. He used dark gray (grau, White Ensign No. Pampanito (SS-383), moored near Fisherman’s Wharf in San
KM05) on the decks. But he says the off-white on the hull (schnell- Francisco. “Much better than deep sea ocean blue,” he says. The
bootweiss, White Ensign No. KM10) gave him fits. dock is built from basswood.
Fred must feel fairly safe in the armored bridge by now. “The So, what’s the next big thing? Fred won’t say — except that it’s
bridge structure took seven tries to get right,” he says. He credits scratchbuilt and will take even more time. FSM

www.FineScale.com 57
One tough ship Building, painting, and detailing a resin SMS Seydlitz /// BY ULF LUNDBERG

It’s not easy to find a 1/350 scale World War I battlecruiser of the German Hochseeflotte (High Seas Fleet), and if you do it’s likely to be resin.
Ulf shows how to work with Combrig’s resin kit.

he German battlecruiser SMS Seydlitz went

T down in history as a ship that took some terrible

beatings but gave as good as she got, and more.
She fought with distinction in World War I before 21
being scuttled along with the rest of the German fleet at Number of
Scapa Flow in June 1919. heavy shells
Combrig’s resin kit is a good model that produces a that hit
worthy replica. The instructions are inadequate, though, SMS Seydlitz
so good references are essential for a successful build. in the Battle
of Jutland.

58 Build Better Ship Models

 Milliput

1 2
Clear markings made it easier to cleanly saw the hull along the waterline. Plastic-card bulkheads reinforce the hull. I filled a box between the
bulkheads with Milliput to house brass posts for the display stand.

More Milliput

3 4
Gentle force, a lot of tape, and a firm clamp were required to align the The waterline seam is covered with Milliput and waiting to be sanded.
hull halves. Thankless work!

The hull Note: Wet-sanding is recommended for glue, gives you time to position the parts,
The kit can be built as a waterline model or resin, as the dust is highly irritating and then shrinks into invisibility as it dries.
with a full hull. I prefer the latter, putting should not be inhaled. Again, it’s not the best glue to use for joints
the ship on a stand, so I must take on the Hull plates were prominent on the under stress.
task of concealing the joint between the Seydlitz. I replicated them by gluing styrene
upper and lower hull. strips, cut from .1mm Tamiya Pla-Paper, to Torpedo net
Before the two hull parts could be the hull sides with ethyl acetate (which acts Warships of Seydlitz’s era were fitted with
joined, I had to clean up their edges with a like liquid cement for polystyrene), 5. The torpedo nets that hung from booms to pro-
saw, 1. Then I reinforced the hull with plas- discovery that this could be used to glue tect the ship at anchor. They turned out to
tic-card stock so it would stand securely on polystyrene to resin made detailing the be more of a hassle than a help. For a short
its brass posts, 2. As usual with a resin hull, model much easier. (I wouldn’t use it for while during the Battle of Jutland, the
there was warpage. But tape and strong any joint that is subject to stress, though.) German battlecruisers actually took the ter-
clamps straightened it, 3. I used two-part With patience and some gentle stretching, rible risk of lying still while their crews
epoxy glue for all major joins. the Pla-Paper strips can be made to follow frantically cut away damaged nets that were
I covered the seam with Milliput and the hull’s compound curves. hanging over the sides of the ships, threat-
sanded it flush, 4. To further conceal flaws, Then I added “eyebrows” made from ening to foul the propellers.
I applied a thick layer of Mr. Surfacer, thin copper wire to all portholes, 6. I rolled The kit’s instructions say nothing about
sanded it flush, then repeated the process. the wire around a pin and cut the resulting how the nets should be fitted and rigged,
I did not achieve perfection, but I was able spiral into rings, each of which I cut into but there are markings in the hull sides for
to hide minor flaws with weathering at three segments. These were attached with the booms and photo-etched (PE) parts for
the waterline. diluted white glue. White glue, unlike super their platforms.

www.FineScale.com 59
 Hatch Eyebrow

Tamiya Pla-Paper strips

Net platform
5 6
Hull plating raises the detailing level and brings out the beautiful lines Eyebrows and hatches for the portholes further enhance the detail. Also
of the ship, too. visible is the torpedo-net platform.

7 8
A flexible steel straightedge, securely taped to the hull, served as a Winding copper wire in three steps creates an attachment point for
guide for scribing a locating groove for the torpedo net platform. the booms.

Eyelets

9 10 11
I made eyelets for the boom lifts by winding The attachments were super glued. Then I pulled the music wire away, leaving eyelets
the wire once around a piece of .2mm music excess wire was cut off. for the net attachment.
wire, then twice around the boom.

To install the platform that you see in including photos I took of models at the that was sufficiently convincing.
Photo 6, I used a steel ruler as a guide and Deutsches Marinemuseum in Wilhelms- First, I cut booms from .5mm piano
scribed a locating groove into the hull’s haven, Germany, I concluded that the tor- wire. Next, I made attachment points from
side, 7. pedo-net rigging differed from ship to ship. copper wire, 8, and eyelets for the boom
How the nets were rigged was hard to I did find some common features, though, lifts, 9, 10, 11. Then I dry-fitted the boom
determine. After studying all my references, and was able to come up with something arrangement, 12.

60 Build Better Ship Models

 Lift

12 13
Dry-fitting a torpedo-net boom: The lift goes through a .3mm hole The teak deck of the minesweeper Weilheim in the Deutsches
carefully drilled through the brass platform. Marinemuseum in Wilhelmshaven is weathered to an exemplary gray.

15 16 17
After the masking was Thin mists of the base color Hull sides, Round 1: a mottled
removed, the color contrasts softened the contrasts. Later, pattern of light gray over a
looked too stark. black washes brought Citadel chaos black prime coat.
out detail.

18 19 20
Round 2: A mist of light Round 3: Discoloring along The effect is softened with a
gray overall. the waterline is depicted with thin layer of light gray. Later,
14 light brown. surface detail was brought out
The first round of masking individual planks; with black washes and dry-
the following two rounds were easier, as the brushing with a lighter gray.
pattern had already been laid out.

Walking the planks again, and sprayed the decks with the base a mist of the same color, 18. Ships’ sides are
Teak decks subjected to seawater, rain, and color lightened by some white. often bleached and dirty just above the
sun quickly turn gray, 13. Pictures show Removing all the tiny masking strips waterline, so I sprayed some light brown on
Seydlitz’s decks to be rather dark, probably revealed contrasts between the colors that this area, 19. Another thin layer of gray
because she was coal-fired; coaling a ship is were a bit too strong, 15. So, I sprayed the evened out the contrasts, 20.
dirty work. decks with a mist of the base color. Last, I
Accordingly, I mixed a dark brown gray sprayed a browner tone along the edges of Superstructure
as a base color and sprayed it over the main the deck houses, hatches, etc., places where The parts for the deck houses, funnels, etc.,
and foredeck. Then I masked about 1⁄4 of the the decks would have less wear, 16. are well cast, but there is room for improve-
deck planks with tiny strips of tape, 14, and ment. I replaced all platforms with .5mm
sprayed the base color with some brown Hull sides styrene card, 21. Bulwarks on the cast plat-
mixed in. After another round of masking After priming the hull with Citadel Chaos forms are incorrect; they were railings cov-
deck planks, I sprayed the decks with a black and letting it dry, I sprayed a mean- ered with canvas. I bent PE railings to
grayer tone of the base color, masked planks dering pattern of light gray, 17, followed by shape and covered them with Deluxe

www.FineScale.com 61
 Casting repaired
21 22 23 Pla-Paper strips
A replacement platform made from styrene Ship’s rails were covered with Glue’n’ Glaze, The aft funnel is detailed with pipes and
card being dry-fitted. Note the repair to the seen here in different stages of drying; ladders. Note the thin strips of Pla-Paper
funnel resin casting. eventually it dries clear and can be painted. replicating plates on the deck house.

24 25 26
Diluted white glue stabilized the yarn and Alligator clamps served as Rigging the booms: After the lifts had been stretched, they
eliminated fuzz. weights to straighten the glue- were held fast with pieces of tape, then secured with tiny
soaked yarn. drops of super glue at all points of contact before I cut
away the excess. Note the grimy streak along the waterline.

27 28 29
Lashing: Fly-tying line is threaded in a sewing Now the nets are fitted; more lines would be Punched styrene discs help hold the upper
needle and secured with super glue for easier added later. and lower masts together.
knotting. A large pin holds the knot in place.

Materials Glue ’n’ Glaze, 22; it’s made to of Berlin’s sewing supply stores to find a with diluted white glue, 28. I had suc-
model clear windows, but when painted it suitable yarn. ceeded on the first try! That was the great-
looks like stretched canvas. I dipped lengths of the yarn in diluted est surprise of this build.
I drilled out the funnels and fitted them white glue, 24, and hung them up to dry,
with pipes made from thin metal tubing 25. I made six of them to allow room Raising the masts
from Albion Alloys, 23. There is no men- for failure. The kit provides no parts for masts and
tion of these pipes in the instructions, but While the yarn was drying, I glued the yardarms. That is just as well, since plastic
there are guiding marks for them on booms and their tackle in place, 26, grateful or resin spars bend under the strain of
the parts. that I had test-fitted these parts before the rigging. The instructions give measure-
I painted the superstructure the same painting the hull. ments of all the major spars, but not the
way as the hull, then brought out details I painted the dried yarn dark gray and smaller ones.
using thin black washes and dry-brushing spiced it up with rust brown before the This is where you must go deep into
with lighter shades of the basic colors. tedium of tying their lashings began, 27. In your references to figure out how the ship
reality they were held with chains, but since was rigged. Complicating matters, the rig-
Lashing the nets there are no chains thin enough for this job ging was changed several times during
The greatest challenge of this build was I did it with fly-tying line. Seydlitz’s career. So, rigging model ships of
making torpedo nets. It started with a tour Lashings done, I glued the nets in place this period is often a case of making edu-

62 Build Better Ship Models

30 31 32 33
Mast-building jig: The mast rests The finished masts before Dying transparent line with a Rigging is attached with white
in a shallow groove. Lines perpen- painting: Except for the crow’s marking pen: The line can be glue when time is needed for
dicular to the groove help adjust- nest, the foremast and mainmast straightened by hanging it up adjustments, and with super glue
ing the yardarms. Everything is were almost identical. with a weight at the lower end. where strength is essential.
tacked down with small pieces of
tape while the super glue cures.

Painted
plank
patterns Steel masts

Fly-tying line for rigging

Superdetailed
funnels

Scratchbuilt
torpedo nets

Weathering
masks the
hull seam

SMS Seydlitz served with distinction in World War I, only to be scuttled at Scapa Flow — an ignominious end to a courageous career on the high seas.

cated guesses based on hazy and sometimes with a marker, 32. I attach it with super I sprayed the entire model with semi-
conflicting pictures as well as general glue or diluted white glue, depending on gloss varnish to conceal glue stains. The fin-
knowledge of how a ship’s rigging works whether the thread is under stress or if I ishing touch was to make all the surfaces
and looks. need time to adjust it. Mild heat, such as come alive by working them with different
I made the masts and yardarms from the glowing ember of a matchhead, will mixes of flat and glossy clear. The wooden
piano wire, sometimes beefed up with steel tighten the line, 33. decks and area along the waterline got the
tubing, 29. I punched out the tops from With the rigging done I mounted the flattest finish; the hull below the waterline
.5mm PVC and glued the masts and yard- main deck railings with diluted white glue. got the glossiest.
arms together in a jig I made for this pur- I used IJN railings from Gold Medal So there she is, the SMS Seydlitz, a
pose, 30, 31. Models, which look similar to the chain tough and proud battlecruiser that distin-
rails that were used by the Hochseeflotte. guished herself in several major naval bat-
Rigging the outcome Only then did I glue the artillery, range- tles of WWI. Now I’m eagerly awaiting
For rigging thread, I use two gauges of fly- finders, searchlights, and other pieces of more 1/350 scale kits of German WWI
tying line. You can tint transparent line equipment in place. warships. FSM

www.FineScale.com 63
Joe Simon’s
top 10 tips

Russian missile destroyer Otlichnyy /// BY JOE SIMON

M
odel shipbuilders know better Trumpeter’s kit provides options for several indentations. “These left ugly spaces around
than anyone: Good projects take different ships of the Sovremenny class, Joe many parts,” Joe says. “Instead, I filled the
time – lots of time. chose Otlichnyy on the strength of photos indents with styrene and drilled locator
Somehow, Joe Simon, an electrical engi- from its visit to Norfolk, Va. in 1989. holes for each item.”
neer from Jackson, Wis., balances work, The name Otlichnyy is most often trans- Along with doctoring kit parts, Joe fab-
children, and his hobby to achieve about lated as Perfect. But, according to Joe, the ricated replacements and improvements.
the same turnaround time as most serious kit was anything but that. “It demands a lot He painted nylon thread to install on hose
ship modelers. He spent three years and of time, filling, and patience,” he says, “a lot reels and winches. Antennas were replaced
about 1,000 hours building Trumpeter’s of TLC.” with .010-inch styrene rod. He also cut out
1/200 scale Sovremenny-class destroyer But there was nothing tender about how solid-molded windows and installed clear
Type 96 as the Russian missile destroyer Joe mounted the superstructure. When he plastic panes, painting their backs black to
Otlichnyy. found it was too wide for the hull, he make them reflective yet opaque. And, Joe
Fortunately, Joe’s wife, Amy, is onboard placed a wood beam inside that was slightly says, “The kit had no hawsepipes for the
with his shipbuilding. As a matter of fact, short of the superstructure’s width, anchor chains. I drilled those out, shaped
you could say it was her idea; Joe got back squeezed the plastic in the middle to cap- their races with a file, and ‘borrowed’
into modeling about 20 years ago when she ture the beam, and glued it in place. anchor chains from my wife,” he says. He
bought him Tamiya’s 1/350 scale HMS Although it became slightly deformed, the blackened the erstwhile jewelry by holding
King George V. And it was she who sug- superstructure matched the hull width. it over a stove burner.
gested he build the Otlichnyy. (“She Many of the main- and upper-deck fit- Joe likes to load a ship with as many
thought it looked cool,” Joe says.) While tings were supposed to mount in molded aftermarket parts as he can muster. White

64 Build Better Ship Models

 Good ships take time: Joe Simon took
three years to build Trumpeter’s 1/200
scale Sovremenny-class Type 96 as
the Russian missile destroyer
Otlichnyy – with award-winning
results.

Ensign Models provided resin replacements

for the main gun turrets as well as a ship-
load of photo-etched metal details. “The
main radar sets took more than two months
to build and mount,” he says.
PE metal railings were painted prior to
installation, then taped in place before glu-
ing. “I would cut them to length and form
them,” Joe says, “then place two or three
thin strips of tape between the lowest levels
on the railing, carefully align them, and
apply thin super glue, wiping away any
excess.” This process made the rails neater
and straighter, he says.
Joe painted with White Ensign Models
Russian Fleet colors – Russian Northern
Fleet grey and Russian deck orange – but
“U.S. standard deck gray is an almost per-
fect match for the main deck,” he says. Building the superstructure was one thing – but fitting it to the width of the hull required
British crimson replicated anti-fouling red. corrective surgery. Joe says the fix slightly deformed the assembly, but it’s hard to see here.

www.FineScale.com 65
Ship modelers work
from the inside out and
from the bottom up.
Here you can see why as
intricate masts and
sinuous rigging top off
Joe’s destroyer.

Wrapping styrene rod around a screwdriver and thermoforming it in When the rigging gets tough, the tough get … a firetruck? Joe
boiling water produced the rings Joe needed for his aerials, stretched employed his son’s turntable-ladder rescue unit as a rigging jig.
out here on a plastic food-storage container jig.

66 Build Better Ship Models

 Simon’s top 10 ‘secret’ tips for ships

1 Review the International

Plastic Modelers Society
handbook, specifically the sec-
6 Fill seams with Milliput or
Apoxie Sculpt putty; it can
be shaped and removed with
tion on judging ship models. water before it dries, without
Learn it and follow it. The IPMS/ damaging details.
USA handbook is available at
ipmsusa.org/NCC/NCC.htm.
7 Replace delicate plastic
masts with brass that can

2 Enter contests and accept

judgments and criticism
support rigging.

graciously; you’ll become a

better modeler. 8 To make rigging easier,
research the rigging pat-
terns and drill anchor points

3 Paint PE metal before put-

ting it on. This will make the
before assembly.

glue less obvious.

9 Do as much research as you
can before starting.

4 Position PE metal parts with

automotive masking tape
before gluing. 10 After you mask off an
area to be painted, seal
the tape edges with Testors

5 Remove the automotive

tape with super-glue
accelerator to prevent damag-
Dullcote to prevent paint from
seeping underneath. The
Dullcote will disappear with Why do ships take so long to build? Well, for one, Joe spent more than
ing the assembly. another clear coat. two months building this radar configuration, painstakingly fitting PE
metal pieces and cleaning up as he went.

Joe drilled out hawsepipes for the anchor chains, which he obtained by Unsatisfied with the kit’s system of deck fittings, Joe drilled many of his
raiding his wife’s jewelry. Fellas, don’t try that last trick at home! own locator holes to mount parts.

After weathering with a mix of burnt dipped the screwdriver in boiling water, and using the weight of the truck for leverage,
umber and raw umber artist oils, Joe dry- cut the plastic free. I joined the ends of the pulled it tight and glued the upper end in
brushed raised details with gull gray and resulting rings, painted them, worked each place, cutting excess thread with a hot
overcoated everything with Testors ring into the six lines, glued it in place, and knife.
Dullcote to homogenize different paints tied off the ends of the aerials. To fit them Joe’s efforts have been amply rewarded.
and cover shiny glue spots in a uniformly to the ship, I tied long nylon threads to His Otlichnyy took first place in its category
flat finish. each end of the aerials and tied those to at the 2008 IPMS/USA national conven-
The rigging presented a unique chal- posts just off the bow and stern of the ship, tion in Virginia Beach, Va., as well as gold
lenge, Joe says: “I usually just string a line then worked the aerials into position and medals at the Midwestern Model Ships &
between two points. But this ship has six- glued them in place.” Boats Contest and Display at the Wiscon-
wire aerials spread apart by rings. I taped For vertical aerials, Joe got serious – he sin Maritime Museum in Manitowoc
six prepainted nylon lines across the top of brought in his son’s big toy firetruck. Joe (including another prize for best paint) and
a plastic storage container. Then, I wrapped hung the threads from the ladder, then the Military Miniature Society of Illinois
.015-inch styrene rod around a screwdriver, attached the lower point to the ship and, annual contest. FSM

www.FineScale.com 67
Drawing weld seams
on small-scale ships
Step-by-step outline of a simple technique to boost detail
BY GREG EMBREE

Pencil weld seams supplement

faded paint and streaks of rust to
give Sky Wave’s 1/700 scale

M
Liberty ship a proper seagoing any American vessels built during World War II had
appearance.
welded rather than riveted hulls. Notable among those
were escort carriers, destroyer escorts, and cargo ships.
Welding the hull plates sped construction, helping U.S. shipyards
crank out 2,710 Liberty ships, the armed cargo vessels that formed
the backbone of Allied supply lines on the way to victory.
These weld seams are clearly visible in photos of the ships.
Reproducing them adds subtle realism to models. It’s important
not to overdo the effect, especially in small scale. So, I draw them
on the hulls with a pencil. One challenge is replicating the gentle
curve of the seams on some ships.
I developed a simple, inexpensive method to represent those
seams with a No. 2 pencil, poster board, hobby knife, scissors, and
modeling clay.

68 Build Better Ship Models

 1 2
First, I traced the outline of the hull — in this case an almost complete I cut around the outline with a hobby knife using a steel straightedge to
Sky Wave 1/700 scale Liberty ship — onto poster paper. guide it along the sides.

3 4
After discarding the cutout, I separated and labeled the outer edges. Next, I packed modeling clay against the hull using a finger and a butter
These will be the seam guides. knife to smooth and shape it to match the weld seam; photos are
invaluable. Here I angled the clay up slightly at the bow and stern.

5 6
I placed half of the template against the hull, adjusting the clay and That was easy: Now I have a curved horizontal weld seam. If you aren’t
trimming the poster board for the best fit. Then, I lightly traced a line pleased with the result, simply erase it and try again. Repeat the process
with a sharp No. 2 pencil along the edge of the template. on the other side.

7 8
I drew the vertical seams next, using a square to ensure they were For rust, I traced some lines with a pale vermilion Prismacolor pencil. A
perpendicular to the horizontal seams. Photos are again indispensable mix of cadmium orange and burnt sienna artist oils produced heavier
for getting the lines right. rust around the anchor, while pastel chalks added another subtle layer. I
sealed the pencil and weathering under a coat of clear flat. FSM

www.FineScale.com 69
 Inspired by the film “Das Boot,” Anders
bought AFV Club’s 1/350 scale Type VIIB
U-boat and donned his handy Optivisor
to build his first submarine.

Building and detailing a

UBOAT The right tools make all the difference
BY ANDERS ISAKSSON

I
watched Wolfgang Petersen’s World Type VIIC, I went with AFV Club’s Type I chose to finish my U-boat as U-48.
War II submarine epic “Das Boot” in VIIB because reviews hailed it as an out- Famous for sinking 55 ships over the
the mid-’80s and have had an interest standing kit. course of the war, it accounted for more
in contemporary submarine warfare The kit offers some options regarding than 300,000 tons sent to the bottom,
ever since. plastic or photo-etched (PE) metal details, making it the most successful Type
Strangely, it took me until recently to but many of the fine plastic details and rails VIIB commissioned.
get around to building a U-boat model. I are undeniably thick for the scale. To To begin my build, I put on my
settled on 1/350 scale because of the conve- increase my model’s scale fidelity, I pur- Optivisor, because helping your eyes is
nient size and the ample selection available. chased the Type VIIB U-boat detail set not only good for you, it makes for a
While the film depicted life aboard U-96, a from Voyager Model (No. VN35001). good model.

1 2
Following the kit instructions, Anders assembled the pressure hull first A pair of spacers cut from styrene strip widened the light-hull topside,
and then installed it between the light-hull halves. creating a better fit for the upper hull and deck.

70 Build Better Ship Models

 3 4
A little putty and sanding cleaned up the join between the upper and The conning tower was the first area to receive PE details from the
lower hull. Anders prefers sanding sponges to refine curved surfaces. Voyager set.

20mm antiaircraft
gun
Wintergarten
Radio
direction-
finding
loop

Access
ladder
5 6 7
“The right tools make the job easier,” Anders However, sometimes you have to use ingenu- Although the Voyager set provided PE hatches
says. He uses a bending tool to shape most of ity. “I shaped the rail for the wintergarten by and covers for the conning tower’s sides,
his PE parts. placing it on a fine-grit sanding sponge and Anders found the kit’s details acceptable.
gently rolling a hobby-knife handle over it,”
Anders says. “It fit perfectly!”

Hole

8 9
A Flex-i-File and fine tweezers make cleaning up small, irregularly AFV Club’s stand left Anders wanting more. He made his own, drilling
shaped pieces easier, if not easy. two holes in the keel with a pin vise to accept the stand’s metal posts.

10 11 12
He drilled matching holes in a decorative Anders disguised the pins with brass-tube Citadel Chaos black primer from a spray can
wooden base and inserted the posts, made sheaths he cut with a razor saw and miter box. base-coated the model.
from steel pins. A modeler’s square helped
ensure the pins were straight.

www.FineScale.com 71
 13 14
A few weld beads had disappeared while Anders sanded the join With the base completely masked, Anders airbrushed a thin coat of
between the upper and lower hull. He restored them with Tamiya putty Tamiya German gray (XF-63); he thought it a good match for
thinned with nail-polish remover and applied with an old brush. Schiffsbodenfarbe III Grau 1 (RAL 7016).

15 16
Anders masked the lower hull with short lengths of masking tape to Everything above the waterline (except the ballast tanks) received a
make sure to get a good seal. Note that the ballast tanks are masked coat of Tamiya medium sea gray (XF-83).
above the waterline.

17 18
To achieve a weathered appearance, he airbrushed the deck with a mix The deck received a wash of AK-Interactive engine grime to deepen
of Tamiya German gray and flat brown (XF-10). “The deck was done engraved details, while a wash of black artist oils emphasized recesses
freehand, except near the bow and stern where I used Post-it notes,” along the hull and around the conning tower.
Anders says.

19 20
Various shades of red and brown Vallejo acrylic paints stippled onto the Anders applied more rust patches and stains with a sponge. First, he
hull simulated rust. dipped the sponge in the desired color. Then he dabbed off most of the
paint on scrap paper before sponging the model.

72 Build Better Ship Models

21 22
Not satisfied with the weathering on the deck, Anders completed Anders used an artist pencil to pick out tiny rust spots. Dots of brown
another round with AK-Interactive and Mig Productions pigments. artist oils, pulled down the sides of the hull with a broad brush
dampened in mineral spirits, simulated more general rust and grime.

23 24
Heavily thinned Tamiya NATO black (XF-69) airbrushed on the rear made At this point, Anders finished the base, slid on the brass rods and
convincing diesel exhaust stains. permanently attached U-48. Lycra thread attached with super glue
provides the boat’s rigging. Once the rigging was run, he hand-painted
it with Vallejo black gray (No. 862). Tiny, carefully placed drops of paint
made the boat’s blocks.

“It felt good to finish this icon among

U-boats,” Anders says. He attributes
his success to having the right tools,
especially an Optivisor, which helped
him complete U-48 without losing
any parts. “It’s likely I’ll start a new
submarine project soon, and I might
include a few crew members. Maybe
I’ll build a diorama!” FSM

www.FineScale.com 73
A NIGHT
to remember

April 15, 1912: Down at the bow, the Titanic’s fate is clear – but earlier, many passengers had stayed with the ship rather than board lifeboats like the
lightly loaded one in the foreground. Mike’s shadow-box diorama features a forced perspective, with the 1/35 scale lifeboat making the 1/87 scale
ship, figures, and attached lifeboat seem more distant.

Forced perspective in a
M
any people find the famous tragedy A shadow-box diorama seemed the perfect
shadow box tells the tale of the Titanic fascinating – and a medium. For the ship section that would be
few, like Mike McFadden, become the endpoint in his perspective, Mike chose
of Titanic obsessed with the story. 1/87 scale – HO scale to model railroaders –
Mike writes: “When Titanic sailed in April for its wealth of period figures and accessories,
BY MIKE MCFADDEN 1912, she was the fashion statement of her day from dapper businessmen to bushel baskets.
– luxurious, massive, and safe. Within a few Building the hull and decks from sheet sty-
days, the ship and much of what she stood for rene, Mike showed about 150 scale feet of the
lay at the bottom of the Atlantic. doomed ocean liner. The layered construction
“The subject was just too enticing to pass allowed installation of and access to intricate
up. Armed with Ken Marschall’s book The Art interior lighting. Most of the 175 bulbs are
of the Titanic – and my imagination – I dollhouse lights, with some Christmas stuff
decided to make a forced-perspective night thrown in for good measure. If he had to do it
scene of the sinking.” over again, he would use more LEDs for ease

74 Build Better Ship Models

 The ship’s internal lighting is provided by a variety of light bulbs and power transformers. “A
friend of mine said [the opened decks] looked like the inside of R2D2,” Mike says.

Collapsible boat C is lowered over the side with a mix of first-, second- and third-class passengers.
Mike cast the lifeboat in resin, making a master with planks of strip styrene glued to a vacuum-
formed hull, then installed a tiller and benches made of styrene sheet and strip.

of maintenance, although he likes the old- the boat are more than 40 figures repre-
time ambience of the yellow, incandescent senting passengers from first to third class.
glow. A felt backdrop hides external wiring “Even in HO scale, I wanted to convey the
and is perforated above by fiber-optic emotions of that night,” he says.
strands of various diameters to show the Many of the ship’s fittings, as well as the
star-filled sky recalled by survivors of that collapsible lifeboat, were cast in resin from
frigid, moonless night. plastic masters. The davits comprise 25
To Mike, much of Titanic’s tale was to pieces of resin: Each has three pulley mech-
be found on the boat deck and bridge, the anisms and a hand crank. Mike contoured
area where the last remaining lifeboats were curves with thick super glue to show the
launched – “most infamously, collapsible
boat C, which carried J. Bruce Ismay, head Mike thermoformed two sheets of styrene
of the White Star Line,” he says, pointing around a dowel for the funnel, then used
out the lifeboat hanging over the side. In styrene-rod half-rounds and brass for details.

www.FineScale.com 75
The 1/35 scale lifeboat is a plank-on-frame construction of wood strips. A reluctant maker of millinery, Mike rejected several attempts in Magic
At the tiller, an officer holds a working flashlight powered by a 1.5-volt Sculp epoxy putty before he was satisfied with the female passengers’
transformer. Mike modeled water with Envirotex resin painted with attire. Of course, as you can see, Mike paid close attention to details,
enamels and artist’s oils, making a wake and ripples with Woodland such as the flowers he made from bits of resin and plastic.
Scenics water-modeling products.

Behind the scenes in the shadow box, a tangle of wires and Mike’s shadow box is appropriately dressed in the news of the day as a
transformers reveals Mike’s ambitious lighting plan. Boston newspaper’s headline announces the scale-model drama inside.

davit bending under the strain of its load. skills, I figured 12 was plenty.” Clothing formers/power sources via alligator clips.
To keep appropriate tension on the nearby and several accessories were formed from This allows removal for maintenance,
empty ropes, Mike followed the advice of a Magic Sculp epoxy putty. Mike notes that although that’s a scary thought at this
10-year-old student and glued iron filings the officer’s flashlight works, too. point. The lifeboat in the foreground is
to the rope ends, then placed small magnets The unifying element in Mike’s scene is highlighted by ‘Mini Maglites’ which can
to pull them taut. a ⁄4-inch sea of Envirotex resin, colored
3 focus on individual figures, like lighting for
In the foreground, a 1/35 scale, 25-foot with green and blue enamels and detailed a movie set.”
lifeboat, light of passengers, begins to pull with waves and wakes of Woodland Scenics Mike chose the angle at which the scene
away from the ship. The boat’s passengers water effects. Mike highlighted with more should be viewed, then placed a view port
and crew are a modified collection of green/blue enamel and titanium white oils. in the front of the shadow box, which is
Verlinden and Warriors figures, some with The entire scene is contained within a adorned by ID plaques and a copy of the
Hornet heads. “There are no Titanic figures box just 20- x 24- x 24-inches. “It was a lot April 16, 1912, Boston Daily Globe’s front-
commercially available in that scale,” Mike to compact into such a confined space,” page story – news of which still makes the
says, adding, “With my figure-painting Mike says. “The hull connects to the trans- A section nearly 100 years later. FSM

76 Build Better Ship Models

 Phillip proves that building a great
plastic model sailing ship doesn’t
always require a great sailing-ship
builder. By following some basic
guidelines, he built Revell’s 1/56
scale yacht America into a
beautiful addition to his collection.

7 TIPS FOR BUILDING

PLASTIC SAILING SHIPS
Improve your next model ship today /// BY PHILLIP GORE

A
lways attention-grabbers, sailing However, these same features can scare yacht America. Take the time to cover any
ships can be some of the most off modelers. Don’t be afraid! Any mod- ejector-pin marks inside the hull with
fulfilling — and most challenging eler can build a plastic sailing ship. .015-inxh sheet styrene. These marks will
— models to build. Intricate rigging, deli- First, choose a simple model with a otherwise mar your finished model.
cate sails, bright colors, and weathered small part count, few sails, and minimal Similarly, cover ejector-pin marks on deck
wood add up to a dazzling display. rigging — such as Revell’s 1/56 scale furnishings. Now, you’re ready to build.

www.FineScale.com 77
 1 2
Tall masts that come in hollow halves are susceptible to warping and To achieve a subtle, multicolored deck, first apply a light base color,
bending under the stress of rigging. Gluing a brass rod in one half of such as Tamiya deck tan (XF-55). Then, spread a medium brown pastel
the mast before assembling it adds strength and keeps it arrow- powder over the deck with a soft, thick brush, wiping away excess.
straight. Lastly, airbrush a dilute mix of the base color randomly over the deck.
(The deck on the left is finished; at right is awaiting a final coat.)

3 4
Hull painting should start with the lightest color first: in this case, a white waterline stripe. Dry-brushing raised wood grain is a great
Metallic paints should be applied last to avoid mixing metal flakes with other colors. way to pick out detail and transform a nice-
looking model into a remarkable miniature.

5
To model plastic sails realistically, first airbrush a coat of flat white and let it dry. Then, brush medium gray pastel powder over the entire surface.
Last, using a very soft cloth, buff the sail to remove most of the pastel powder, leaving enough to accent the raised and recessed areas. Easy!

6 7
Use fine tweezers when running rigging or adding reef points to keep When rigging multiple blocks, gently pull the thread tight along its
from damaging surrounding parts. Super glue locks the thread in entire length before gluing. Make sure the line is taut, but not so
place. much that it bends spars or masts. FSM

78 Build Better Ship Models

Revell launched its 1/96 scale USS Constitution in 1965, but the kit’s just a kid next to the real thing — at 220 years, the oldest commissioned warship
afloat in the world. White plastic sails just wouldn’t look right on Old Ironsides. But here’s a way to make them look like they belong. Photos by Bill
Hottinger and Jane Indreika.

Modeling sails
for plastic ships
Shiny styrene has no place on the seven seas /// BY JOHN HAZARD

www.FineScale.com 79
 Yard

Cringle

A B
A cutaway at the top shows thread glued to the top of the core and tied Cutaway at the bottom shows florist wire and light brass wire combined
to the yard. Florist wire is on the side of the sail. to form a cringle.

Footloops

C D
Attaching reef points: In this front view, the starboard edge of the sail is Footropes hanging from the yard: If you are afraid of heights, this is no
shown uncovered. place to be.

L
ike many builders of period ship Constitution.) If the sail is to hang from a twisting a couple of times to form a tiny
models, I found that making real- yard (horizontal spar attached to a mast), loop. Spread the two ends into a V. Super
istic sails was difficult. Cloth sails the top of the core should be cut to match glue the cringles to the lower corners of the
always look wrinkled and limp. the taper of the yard, 1 (illustration, p. 81). core along the inside of the florist wire and
Plastic sails are too flexible and brittle to All the preparation of the sail core is a little past the core’s corner, 4, B.
hold tightly strung rigging. done on the back (concave) side. Super glue Some plastic sails have raised lateral
After much mumbling and muttering, I a strong thread to the back of the core as bands across the front, leaving indentations
hit on a solution that involves two counter- close to the top edge as possible, A. This in the back. Fill these indentations with
intuitive approaches: One is laminating the will keep the core from tearing loose when paper strips so the back of the finished sail
sails by putting cloth on both sides of a core the finished sail is attached to the yard. If will be smooth, 5. The core is now ready.
of either plastic (from a ship model kit) or the yard to which the sail is to be attached
manila folder stock; the other is to use vari- is too fragile or flexible to handle the ten- Building the sail on the core
ous kinds of wire to curve, reinforce, or sion needed for rigging, use 22-gauge piano Prepare some thin, tightly woven white cot-
stiffen the sails. wire here instead of thread, 2. Super glue ton cloth to cover the core. Stain the cloth
This creates sails that retain a rounded lengths of 22-gauge florist wire along the evenly with Minwax wood stain: 1 part
shape and are firm enough to hold taut rig- sides and bottom of the core, leaving ⅛- golden oak (210B) to two parts natural
ging. As a result, they seem to tug at the inch openings at the lower corners of the (209). Cut pieces of cloth to fit both sides
rigging and billow in a stiff imaginary wind. core. This wire stiffens the core yet allows it of the core. Be sure the cloth’s weave is
to hold a curve, 3. square to the shape of the sail; leave an
Preparing the core Make two cringles (the eyes at the lower extra ¾ inch all the way around.
Cut the shape of the sail from the core corners of the sail to which rigging is Before attaching the cloth to the core,
material. (My example shows molded plas- attached) by bending 2 inches of 32-gauge draw “stitching.” This is done with a .7mm
tic supplied by Revell’s 1/96 scale USS brass wire around a good-size needle and mechanical pencil. To get straight, precisely

80 Build Better Ship Models

 Yard 1 Back of sail D 12 2

Core
6
A
5

7 Core

B
11 13 Front of sail Yard
4

10

Rigging the staysails

14 F
17 18

15 E

16 Mast

www.FineScale.com 81
 E
Two stages of preparation for the wire used
as stays.

spaced lines, tape the cloth to a self-healing

cutting mat that has a grid. Then draw ver-
tical lines very lightly at ¼-inch intervals.
Pressing harder, draw each stitch along the
vertical lines, about 10 stitches/inch, 6. F
The cloth surfaces can now be attached This stout wire rigging cannot be bent by the weight of the sail.
to the core. Spread a thin film of white glue
on the entire front (convex) side of the core. To prepare the finished sail for attach- glue and trimmed, 13. The completed yard
(Careful: If the glue is too thick it may ment to the yard, drill small holes at ⅜- and sail unit is now ready to be mounted on
bleed through the cloth. Likewise, do not inch intervals across the top, being sure to the mast.
thin the glue with water.) Attach the cloth stay below the thread or wire at the top of
to the core, leaving no air pockets. Do the the core, 11. Attaching the staysails
same to the back of the core, being sure the Staysails hang from a stay (a heavy rope
cloth is glued tightly around the wires and Attaching the sail to the yard placed between two masts to brace them).
thread at the core’s edge. Paint the yard with a flat brown or black. On the model, the staysails are created in
Trim the overhanging cloth to the edges Use 28-gauge black annealed wire to fash- the same way as before. But the stay itself is
of the core. Tack loose edges down with ion and install footropes on the yard, 12, D. modeled with wire instead of thread so the
small dabs of white glue. Also attach any blocks (pulleys) to the yard weight of the sail will not pull it out of
Corner reinforcements can be made by if they will be needed later for rigging. Tie shape. Usually, .032-inch piano wire is suf-
gluing small pieces of cloth to the corners the yard to the sail using coat thread with ficient, although a slightly bigger gauge
on both sides of the sail. When they are in single overhand knots touched with super may be necessary if the sail being hung is
place, pencil the stitches on them, 7. especially large. Before cutting the wire,
Add reef points (short lengths of rope precisely measure the distance between the
on the front of a sail that sailors use to furl
Meet John Hazard points where the ends of the stay will con-
it), C. For each row of reef points, cut a nect to the two masts. Then add an extra ¼
⅛-inch-wide cloth strip a little longer than inch at both ends.
the width of the sail. As before, cut squarely To prepare each end of the wire: Fold ¼
to the weave of the cloth. The reef points inch of the wire back on itself, 14, and
are ⅜-inch-long cotton threads; they are pinch a 4-inch piece of coat thread within
attached to the strip every ¼ inch by dip- the apex of the fold. This thread will serve
ping one end lightly in super glue and lay- to attach the wire to the mast, 15, E. Wind
ing it on the strip with tweezers. Then, with another piece of thread around the folded
white glue, attach each strip to the sail and part of the wire, super glue it, and cut off
trim the edges, 8. Turn the sail over and, on the loose ends. This will hide the fold in the
the back of the sail, draw horizontal stitch wire and simulate the seizing that holds a
lines corresponding to the stitches holding JOHN STARTED BUILDING period ship real stay, 16. Paint the wire flat black. Then
the bands on the front of the sail, 9. models in the early 1950s, making do attach the sail to the wire with coat thread,
The sail’s rough edges can now be fin- with balsa, dowels, and the toxic glue of 17, and tie the ends of the wire to the two
ished. Cut a ¼-inch strip for each of the that era. Since then, being busy with masts, 18, F.
four edges, allowing a little extra for each. many other things, he has built only a
Fold each strip along its length, wrap it few models, all of them sailing ships kit- The rigging is up to you
around the edge of the sail, and attach it bashed from plastic kits. He spent four Most sailing ships include detailed rigging
with white glue. Trim excess from the years building Revell’s 1/96 scale USS plans. A sail is not complete until it is con-
strips, mitering them at the four corners of Constitution and its 30 sails, working nected to all the lines sailors need to con-
the sail. Be sure to keep the cringles clear, sporadically and often batting away trol it from below. In fact, rigging may be
10. Add stitch marks on all four edges on Yoyo, the cat that wanted to help with the most interesting aspect of a ship model
both sides of the sail. The entire sail can the rigging. He tells us his wife, Colette, for the builder as well as the viewer.
now be aged with a light wash of Testors is a lovely and patient woman. I’ve given you better-looking sails. Now
flat-black enamel. it’s up to you to hoist them! FSM

82 Build Better Ship Models

 Getting Started

E W
L- N INTRODUCING
L
A MODELER’S
TOOL BOX
Curated by Aaron Skinner of FineScale Modeler, the all-new Modeler’s Tool Boxes
contain everything you’ll need to build a spectacular scale model, including Aaron’s
how-to tips and techniques. Each box contains premium quality tools and materials
from the hobby’s top brands, including Iwata, Airfix, Xuron, and more!

Order Your Tool Box at

KalmbachHobbyStore.com/FSMBoxes

Airbrushing Basics
P34555

Sales tax where applicable.

Price does not include shipping.
 HOW CAN I
BUILD
THAT?
THE #1 MAGA ZINE FO R CAR M O DELERS!

Scale Auto will teach and inspire you to build better

models of your favorite muscle cars, stock cars,
street rods, and more! Whatever your skill level,
this magazine will show you how!
Your 1-year subscription of 6 value-packed issues includes:
• How-to projects & instructions.
• Expert modeling tips & techniques.
• Crisp photos of finished models.
• Unbiased kit reviews.
• The best and latest
show coverage.
• And more!

SUBSCRIBE NOW AT
SCALEAUTOMAG.COM
OR CALL 877-246-4844 P33621
(Outside the United States and Canada, call 903-636-1125.)