Khadi in Ancient Times

Hand spinning and hand weaving have been around for thousands of years, thus, making the craft of
khadi ancient. The Indus civilization, around 2800 B.C., had a well-developed tradition of textiles.
Discovery of terracotta spindle whorls for spinning yarn, bone tools for weaving, terracotta beads with
textile impressions and figurines wearing woven fabrics are evidence supporting such claims. The most
prominent figurine is of the Mohenjodaro Priest King sculpture shown wearing a cloak over the shoulder
with patterns still in use in modern Sindh, Gujarat and Rajasthan.

There have been various other mentions of the beauty and vividness of Indian fabric. Alexander the
Great discovered printed and painted cotton during his invasion of India. He and his successors
established trade routes which finally introduced cotton to Asia and eventually to Europe. Recovery of
Indian fabrics in the old ruins of Cairo supports this theory. Cotton textiles were considered all the rage in
Rome and were popular among the wealthy.

The Origin of Khadi Fabric

Khadi fabric has been evolved as the latest fashion trend since 1990 in India. When it is about the Origin
of Khadi Fabric it's true Khadi came in limelight as a pure handwoven native dress material during
Swadeshi movement led by Mahatma Gandhi. But, khadi fabric has been originated way before that in
ancient civilization. Yes, it is true. Few of us know about the origin of khadi fabric. Khadi has started a lot
before than Mahatma Gandhi's Khadi movement.

History of Khadi Fabric

Along with holding a significant historical event of the past, as well as popular present demand in the
fashion industry and Indian handloom industry Khadi Fabric, has an interesting history regarding its
origin. The word ‘Khadi’ is originated from ‘Khaddar’ which refers to the handspun fabric. This 'Khaddar'
term is also popular in Pakistan and Bangladesh. Khadi is a type of handspun or handwoven fabric
usually made from cotton fibre. On the other hand, Khadi is also merged with silk or wool and termed as
khadi silk or woollen khadi.

You will be surprised to know that many historians specially mentioned in the history of ancient
civilization Mohenjo-Daro concerning handwoven cloths that are so similar to the texture of Khadi. This
is because from many ancient literary references historians had found the earliest description of cotton
textiles in India. Greek historians Strabo had mentioned the soothing texture of Indian fabric because,
during the time of Alexandar's invasion in India, Greek army wore Indian cotton clothes which were far
more comfortable during summer time. One of Alexander's aspirant commented that these Indian cloth
materials are made from cotton grown on the trees.

Wondering? There's more. Khadi had a special recognition and popularity in the Mauryan Era. In
Chanakya's ''Arthashastra" he mentioned about ‘Sutradhyaksha’ that refers a person who is adept in
producing yarn spun out of wool, fibre hemp, bark-fibre, flax. In that time many expert artisans were
producing cotton cloth material and that had sheer quality and pivotal role in that era's economy. That's
why Mahatma Gandhi brought back Khadi as an original Indian product during the Swadeshi movement.

In the caves of Ajanta, the images of the procedure of separating cotton fibers from seeds have been
found along with some images of women spinning cotton yarns. Alexander and his inheritors introduce
Indian cotton in Asia & Europe. Thus cotton has gained international recognition since the ancient era.

Not khadi material but the handwoven fabric was very popular in the ancient times, in the Mughal
empire handwoven fabric used to be very popular especially Muslin fabric.

Despite of having such glorious history after the increasing popularity of textile mills and cheap clothes
produced by these grabbed Indian market and as a result handwoven khadi fabric was facing a big loss.
But Gandhiji had revived Khadi industry and hand-spun products during Swadeshi movement.
Khadi fabric material has a special texture. The reason why khadi is so famous and popular even among
celebrities and politicians because of its rugged texture and it feels very comfortable in Summer and
warm in winter.

Interestingly, ancient temples in India gives a varied and brief account of the varieties of dresses worn by
ancient Indians. Each temple in India from varied region reflects distinct material varieties and textile
traditions. The material khana is produced by maintaining a specific length and width. Women from
parts of Marathwada, Vidharbha region from Maharashtra, north of Karnataka makes use of
GulegaguddKhana. The ornamenting art of fabrics has been an age-old traditional custom and technique
from the historical past. Indian handloom fabrics have abounded of types of costumes, however, saris
and blouse have special significance. Saris are strongly identified with India women. Art and architecture
have shown strong traditional and sentimental value to sari and blouse, also regarded as one of the most
beautiful costumes in the world. The Indian temples not only reflects varieties in dresses but also
reflecting in wearing and weaving style. A large number of folk thrives on the connoisseurs of art and
weaving.

Weaving in ancient India was conducted in lengths and breadths of the vast country as semi-urban, rural
industry and urban environments. Hand weaving occupied a prominent position in ancient India, and
artisans, designers, and weavers occupied a prominent position in courts of Indian kings palaces. This
type of fabrics has been spread across various states of India. The states of Karnataka has a traditional
design and intricate weaving methods. Ilkal saris of Bagalkot and Molkalmuru saris of Chitradurga and
comprises the traditional saris of Karnataka. The weaving of Ilkal dates back to the 8th century AD has
still remained popular. In Maharashtra and Karnataka regions, the traditional clusters of Vidarbha,
Marathawada and GuledguddKhanahas been very well-known. Similarly, in West Bengal, the rise of
handloom cotton fabrics, khadi, and dhakai has been worn traditionally by women.

Colonial times had endangered the fabrics weakening the weavers and designers in India. Most of the
production during the Colonial period used to ship to London, headquarters of the British Empire. The
Victoria and Albert Museum still exhibits the Fabrics of India, charting India's textile. The exhibition in
the industry depicts the various stages in the cotton cloth production according to the Handloom
Industry. The Colonial British rule had destroyed the designer and artistic workers in the Indian
handloom industry by importing raw materials back to their country to make finished products. The
finished products were brought back to India and sold at a higher price, the money used to go back to
England. Mahatma Gandhi starting the Swadeshi movement whereby weaving and complete garment
manufacturing was reinstated in India. It was only after the British rule ended and India became
independent that the Khadi fabrics regained its position. The textile industry formation post-
independence was primarily dependent upon small scale weavers and manufacturers making traditional
garments was a gamble and sheer luck. Only till in the recent period, the Indian government together
with several small scale industry decided to showcase and reinstate India’s position in the global
industry.
Indian khadi fabric, also known as khaddar, is made by spinning threads on an instrument called charkha.
It is woven and spun by hand, which is a time-consuming process. Before Independence, khadi
manufacturing gained momentum under Mahatma Gandhi’s leadership as a movement to boycott British
clothes. It was then the fabric of freedom fighters and the rural folk. Gandhi developed the concept of
khadi as a means to provide employment to the unemployed rural population. The Indian flag is also
made from khadi, and therefore, it holds national importance.

Versatility makes it popular

The versatile khadi fabric has the unique property of keeping the wearer warm in winter and cool in
summer. It has a coarse texture and gets easily crumpled, and therefore, is starched to keep it firm and
stiff. On washing, it is more enhanced; the more you wash it, the better is the look. Khadi does not easily
wear out with a shelf life of at least four to five years. Attractive designer apparel is made by doing
handwork on khadi garments.

Khadi spinning is generally done by girls and women and weaving, mostly by men. During spinning, the
threads are interwoven in such a manner that they provide passage of air in the fabric. Durable khadi
comes in many colours and is not harmful to skin. The cotton absorbs moisture and easily soaks sweat
and keeps the wearer cool and dry. Khadi cotton comes in plain as well as printed fabrics. The most
common outfit is the kurta. Other apparel are saris, salwar suits, western tops, shirts, trousers, skirts and
handkerchiefs.

Initially, khadi was primarily made of cotton with a very coarse texture and feel. However, several
varieties of khadi like khadi silk, khadi wool and khadi cotton are available now, which makes it a
fashionable fabric popular with the masses. The wearer gets a royal and distinguishable look due to
khadi’s fall and style. It symbolises luxury and uniqueness as well.

The ratio of cotton and silk fabric is 50:50 in khadi silk, quite an expensive fabric. It requires dry cleaning
and shrinks about 3 per cent after the first wash. Khadi silk provides a royal and rich look.

Because of its versatile nature, khadi has found its way onto the wardrobe of fashionistas. Its demand is
more than the supply now. It is widely accepted in the Indian fashion circle, with leading designers
including it in their collections. There is a huge demand for it in international market as well, especially in
the West.

Khadi was earlier dyed in earthy colour tones and was used to make traditional garments, but designers
now are experimenting by dyeing it in striking colours like lime green, violet, baby pink and turquoise
blue. Stylish garments like miniskirts, halter neck tops, racer tops, tunics, etc. are also being made from
khadi.
Government initiatives (KVIC)

The Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) is the Indian government body that promotes khadi,
whose production and sale comes under the small scale industry sector. KVIC was created by a
parliament act after which many KVIC outlets were opened across the country. These shops sell khadi
fabrics and apparel. Every year between October to January, all Khadi Gramodyog Bhavans offer
discounts on their products. KVIC also organises exhibitions and trade fairs in the country and abroad to
promote khadi.

The small-scale industries engaged in manufacturing khadi get economic redemption for the raw
materials and production costs by the government. The khadi sector employs 14.97 lakh people and the
total annual production of khadi is 111.49 million square metres.

Khadi over the decades has moved from a freedom fighter’s identity fabric to a fashion garment. There is
such a high demand for khadi now that fulfilling it has turned a challenge.

http://khadivastram.com/blog/history-of-khadi/

Properties of Khadi Fabric

Khadi is not just a fabric it is a way of life it represents the struggle of India for independence. Khadi is
all-season fabric and it can be also worn on festive occasions. Below, I have mentioned some properties
of khadi that makes it one of a kind fabric.

Khadi keep warm in winters and cool in summers

The more you wash khadi, the better and fresh it looks on you.

No two fabrics of khadi can be identical because of which you get an exclusive feel.

Khadi fabric is 3.24 times energy efficient than mill clothes.

Types of Khadi Fabric Available

khadi fabric types

Below, I have mentioned some of the khadi fabric available in the market-

Khadi Cotton Fabric- this type of khadi is made from pure cotton yarns. Khadi cotton has different
variations according to the demand of the fashion industry like Handloom khadi cotton and Textile khadi
cotton.
Woolen Khadi Fabric- this type of khadi fabric is made from fine quality of wool.

Pandora Khadi- this khadi fabric is rarely available in the market. It is used to make expensive khadi
sarees.

Khadi Silk Fabric- it has two subtypes of fabrics, first is pure silk in which khadi is made from silk yarns
and second is a blend of several yarns.

Final Words

The new age of khadi fabric and products are not cheap. Many people think that it’s just for fashion but
its more than fashion. It’s about promoting sustainable fashion and remembering the freedom struggle
of India.

Khadi Vastram gives a platform to artisans and weavers to sell their products. With Khadi Vastram we
aim at reducing rural poverty and support the poor weavers.

Importance of Khadi

Khadi is a coarse material. It is hand spun on ‘charkha’, the spinning wheel. It stays cool in summers and
warm in winters.

Khadi in the history of India is known to be a major factor in starting a movement. Mahatma Gandhi the
father of our nation used to wear only khadi which he himself spun and made.

Cotton was grown majorly in India during the British rule. It was transported to Manchester where it was
woven and clothes were made in the industries and sent back to India where it was sold at exorbitant
prices. This along with other factors was leading to a drop in the Indian economy.

Gandhi saw khadi as a source to help the poor living in villages to earn a living. He saw khadi as a self-
sufficient material. This became a movement that aimed at boycotting foreign goods and promoting the
Indian goods which would intern boost the Indian economy. This movement gave birth to swaraj. Khadi
also became a symbol for political agendas during India’s independence struggle. Hence khadi became
the weapon of non-violence and played a major role in India’s independence.

The spinning wheel came to be considered as sedative and which brought peace of mind and also
became the emblem of human dignity and equality.

Khadi today is not very well promoted. We don’t look at it as a self-sufficiency anymore. It is mostly
associated with politicians. Some designers have tried their hands on khadi clothing line but according to
me it hasn't yet become a fashion statement.

It is available in stores like khadi bhandar, khadi emporium, fabindia and many projects have been taken
up by various organisations to revive khadi.
So, here are six benefits of khadi that can help us revive the movement:

Comfortable

Khadi is one type of fabric that can be worn in any weather. It's warm in the winters and cool in the
summers. All you have to do is find out comfortable designs that suit you.

Quality

Khadi is a body-friendly fabric which does not cause any allergies or irritations, unlike other synthetic
fabrics.

Unique appeal

Khadi dyes and weaves are done by hand. Each khadi product is different and has a very peculiar style
and finish. Wearing khadi products makes you stand out in the crowd and gives you a unique appeal.

Maximum air permeation

The loom used in the making of khadi combines the threads in such a way that allows maximum air to
permeate, which is very soothing, especially in summers.

Durability

Khadi products are highly durable and long-lasting, thus defining your fashion sense for an extended
period of time.

Eco-friendly

The making of khadi is eco-friendly, as it does not rely on any electric unit and manufacturing processes.

The role of Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) in Indian economy.

The Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) is playing an important role in Indian economy as it
covers about 2.48 lakh villages throughout the country. Over the years, the main thrust of KVI activities
has been to provide a larger share of employment to scheduled caste and scheduled tribes and women.
At present SC/STs comprise nearly 32.0 per cent of workers and women constitute 46 per cent of the
work force. In 1992-93, the Khadi and Village industries produced goods worth Rs 270.49 crore and
provided employment to 51.05 lakh persons. During 1993-94 the production level increased to Rs
3,490.0 crore and provides employment to 55.50 lakh persons.

An Action Plan incorporating the major recommendations of High Powered Committee has been
formulated and launched on October 2, 1994. With the implementation of the Action Plan the sector will
get a boost with a quantum jump in production and employment
The KVIC attained a growth rate of 12 per cent in its overall production in 1996-97 as the value of its
production has reached the level of Rs 4,516.26 crore during the year as compared to Rs 4,026.45 crore
in 1995- 96. Commensurate with the increased production, sales also improved to Rs 4,014.11 crore as
compared to Rs 4,429.12 crore in 1995-96. In 1997-98, the value of output of KVI has increased
marginally to Rs 4,519.31 crore.

Total number of persons employed in KVI has increased from 56.72 lakh in 1995-96 to 58.17 lakh in
1996-97 registering an increase of 3 per cent and then it declined to 56.50 lakh in 1997-98. The per
capita productivity of KVI improved to Rs 7,898 during 1996-97 as compared to Rs 7,099 in 1995-96
while the per capita earning increased to Rs 2,635 as against Rs 2,405 in 1995-96. The khadi and village
industries have spread and taken root in about 2.50 lakh villages in 1997-98 out of total 5.81 lakh villages
in the country.

The khadi programme consists of production of cotton, silk, muslin and woollen and village industries
consisting of 111 industries and implemented through directly aided agencies and State/UT level Khadi
and Village Industries Board.

KVIC would be providing additional employment to the level of 10.57 lakh unemployed persons in the
rural areas with an estimated cost of Rs 5,600 crore during the Ninth Five Year Plan (1997-2002).

In recent years, KVIC has witnessed vast changes resulting from the introduction of new schemes and
systems. However, the recessionary trends in the economy in general also reflected in this sector to a
certain extent. The KVIC has formulated a scheme for financing projects with investment items up to Rs
25 lakh for rural industrialisation and employment generation. Under the scheme 25 per cent of the
project cost upto Rs 10 lakh is being provided as margin money by way of subsidy.

For projects above Rs 10 lakh and upto Rs 25 lakh, the rate of margin money will be 25 per cent of Rs 10
lakh plus 10 per cent of the remaining cost of the project. In the case of beneficiaries of the weaker
sections, tribal areas and backward regions, the margin money will be at the rate of 30 per cent of the
project cost. The technologies and projects to be adopted by KVIC would he mainly directed towards
increasing employment opportunities as well as productivity of artisans.

The government has also launched a new scheme in 125 blocks of the country for intensive development
of khadi and village industry. The objective of this programme is to create about 1,000 additional jobs in
each block during the period of next three years.

The Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) has been playing an important role as an instrument
to generate large scale employment in the rural areas with low per capita investment. The Government
will continue to encourage the khadi and village industry sector so that its products can become more
competitive, For intensifying marketing efforts, the Budget 2000-01 proposed that the KVIC will
introduce a common brand name for its products and also set up a professionally managed marketing
company for domestic as well as export marketing.
KVIC has also launched a massive marketing development plan throughout the country so as to generate
interest, awareness and attraction amongst the masses about the khadi and village industries products.
Accordingly, KVIC has approved a number of schemes in order to promote marketing of the products of
village industries and also to offer employment opportunities to unemployed under Rural Employment
Generation Programmes.

The MSME Ministry is also implementing a comprehensive reform package for the Khadi sector. This
envisages upgradation and capacity building of 300 Khadi institutions and also for improving their
marketing skills. Under the package, steps are being taken to distribute 1 lakh modern charkhas to
artisans and also new handlooms to various Khadi Sansthans.

Seventy nine clusters have been sanctioned under the Scheme of Fund for Regeneration of Traditional
Industries (SFRUTI). Presently KVIC is functioning under the administrative control of the Ministry of
MSME. KVIC has been identified as one of the major organizations in the decentralized sector for
generating sustainable non- farm employment opportunities in rural areas at a low per capita
investment.

It undertakes activities like skill improvement, transfer of technology, research and development,
marketing etc. and also helps in generating employment self employment opportunities in rural areas.

The main objectives of KVIC include:

(i) The social objectives or providing employment in rural areas;

(ii) The economic objectives of producing saleable articles, and

(iii) The wider objective of creating self-reliance amongst people and building up a strong rural
community spirit.

In order to attract younger generation, the KVIC is holding exhibitions, seminars, lectures in over 120
universities and colleges throughout the country so as to disseminate knowledge of KVI products.