Frequently Asked Questions http://www.mlevel3.com/BCIT/Painting.

htm

PAINTING... Solving the Mystery

By Ron Alexander
Ask a group of airplane builders whether or not you should paint your own airplane and then
stand back and listen. The opinions will equal the number of people present. The painting issue is
very important since the final finish of our aircraft is most of what others see. When someone
inspects your airplane they will also judge the quality of construction by the final finish. The
painting needs to be done properly. If you have no painting experience you will usually view this
as a formidable task. It is very tempting to dig out the yellow pages and begin looking for a
professional painter. Professional painters usually have one goal in mind, provide a quality paint
job as quickly as possible and then move on to the next job. Professional painters are often not
familiar with the type of paints used in the sport aviation industry. This is particularly true with
fabric covering topcoats. Painters are professionals so they are expensive. The cost of painting an
airplane varies from one location to another but it is not unusual to be charged $3,000-$4,000 or
more for a quality paint job. Professional painters have the advantage of a properly equipped
facility along with top of the line painting tools. They also should be experienced with the
preparation procedure and the painting process. It is very tempting to fly your airplane in and
leave it with a pro. It is also noteworthy that hiring someone to paint your airplane does not affect
the major portion rule of custom building. It is perfectly acceptable to contract the painting.

You can
complete a professional paint job on your custom built airplane even if you have no experience.
Painting equipment and the paints used today make it much easier for an individual to paint their
own aircraft. After all, you have spent years building this masterpiece so why would you want to
hire out the painting? The custom airplane builder will spend more time and expend more effort
in the painting process than will a professional. It’s your airplane! You have built it from the
beginning with attention to every small detail. You want the same attention on the final finish.
Sure you don’t have a bug free working environment like a professional shop and you may not
have the experience of a pro but all custom builders possess two major advantages, the desire for
perfection and the quality of perseverance. With those two characteristics you are capable of a
professional looking paint job. Basically, all you need is proper equipment, time, the ability to
follow directions, and practice. Even if you have never picked up a spray gun you can do the job.

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A charcoal filtered respirator.

Now that I have persuaded you to paint your own airplane where do you begin? You will need
some sort of paint facility, good painting equipment, and the knowledge necessary to prepare and
paint the airplane. I will discuss all of these in this and the next article. I will discuss what type of
facility is needed, spraying equipment, how to prepare surfaces for paint, and the actual process
of painting.

When should you paint your airplane assembled or prior to assembly? A first time painter will be
better served to paint the airplane prior to assembly. It is much simpler to paint the individual
parts of an airplane rather than to paint the entire airplane at one time. However, most of our
airplanes are smaller in size so painting the completed airplane is not as difficult as painting a
large assembled aircraft. In either case there are ways to accomplish a quality finish that will be
discussed later. Some builders will want to wait until they have test flown the airplane prior to
painting. That enables them to correct problems and make necessary changes resulting from the
test flying period. Some of these changes could affect the finish of the aircraft so they will wait
until this time for final painting. Again, if you possibly can, paint the airplane prior to assembly.
Painting an airplane is literally 90% preparation and 10% painting. Be ready to spend most of
your time preparing surfaces for painting. The actual spraying process consumes a small amount
of time. Remember also to practice-practice-practice. Before you begin applying the topcoats you
will have acquired experience spraying primers. Obviously, the primer coat does not show so if
spraying mistakes are made they can be easily corrected. You can also practice spraying
techniques on large pieces of cardboard, old doors, masonite, stove pipe, etc.. If you are painting
a fabric covered airplane you will have literally hours of practice spraying the more viscous coats
of chemicals used on fabric. Then when you are ready to spray the final color coats you can do so
with confidence. The bottom line is this painting an airplane is usually approached with much
more fear than is necessary. Whether or not you elect to paint your entire airplane you certainly
will end up painting a number of small parts. Consider painting the airplane yourself. You can do
it!

FACILITIES FOR PAINTING

Ideally you would have a clean, well lit, temperature controlled paint shop. Realistically, you will
probably have to paint in your garage. Some builders are fortunate enough to locate a hangar or
other such facility for their painting. Bear in mind that some airports will no longer allow
painting unless the shop is designed and built to comply with local restrictions. Certain locations

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require the user of solvent based paints to filter overspray and have a method of collecting waste.
If you are using a water based paint you will not be faced with this problem.

You do not want to use your basement for painting. The fumes will permeate the entire house and
you will not be popular with your family. A garage or workshop is adequate. After you have
found a suitable location for painting the next step is to build a poor man's paint booth. This can
be done very easily by using PVC pipe and plastic sheets. Build a square frame out of wood or
PVC pipe large enough to cover your airplane or the largest surface you will be spraying. You
should allow enough space to be able to walk around the surface. You can hang the frame from
your ceiling with pulleys so you can raise and lower it. Cover the roof and sides with plastic
sheeting stapled or taped to the frame. Tape the sheets together using duct tape. At one end of the
booth place a furnace filter and at the other end an exhaust fan. This will provide filtered air.
Make sure the fan has an enclosed motor with no chance of sparking. If you are unsure about the
fan, leave it out and quit spraying when the booth becomes full of overspray. The overspray will
settle in minutes and then you can go back to work.

Lighting is of utmost importance. Your booth should have an abundance of lights on moveable
light stands or any other way you can arrange them. Shield the bulbs with chicken wire to
prevent breaking which could ignite paint particles. When you are painting you cannot have too
much light. You will also want to hang small pieces of your airplane for spraying. This can be
accomplished by using welding rod hooked over a length of pipe. Then attach the small pieces to
the welding rod. The length of pipe or wood can be suspended from the top of the spray booth.

You do not want to paint in the following areas: (1) outside in fog or high humidity, (2) outside
in direct sunlight, (3) in the wind, (4) in a dusty place, (5) in a rented or borrowed spray booth
where you can't take your time. You will usually not be able to paint when the temperature is
below 60 degrees F. When you have finished painting you can throw away your paint booth or
donate it to a friend. It is important that you have a clean, well ventilated, and well-lit area.

PAINTING EQUIPMENT

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Do not try to save money on painting equipment. High quality paint rigs produce high quality
finishes. There are four basic methods of applying paints. They are: (1) conventional pressure fed
gun, (2) High-Volume, Low-Pressure (HVLP) systems, (3) airless spraying, and (4) electrostatic
spraying. Airless spraying and electrostatic spraying are used primarily in production work.
Airless sprayers force paint through a small tip opening at extremely high fluid pressures (
usually 1200 to 3600 psi ). Using this amount of pressure affords airless sprayers the ability to
spray almost any coating. Because of the high pressures airless sprayers are rarely used in the
aircraft industry. Electrostatic spray systems charge the paint at the tip. A high voltage difference
is set up between the paint and the object to be painted. The charge attracts the particles of paint
and they wrap around the object. This type of spraying is used in factory applications.

Conventional Spray Systems

That leaves the custom aircraft builder with 2 choices of spraying equipment, conventional
pressure and HVLP. The conventional system uses a high pressure source, usually an air
compressor. The air compressor must be capable of delivering about 40-50 psi at the spray gun.
This means the compressor must have adequate storage and be capable of supplying 90 psi+ at
the compressor outlet. These high pressures push paint out of the gun and mix it with the
airstream. Because the pressures are so high the paint is atomized effectively so that it can be
applied to the surface. High pressure guns have been around for years. They can be used with
large volume "pressure pots." Pressure pots hold up to 5 gallons of material that is handy when
applying doping chemicals used on fabric airplanes. The spray guns used for smaller jobs are
usually suction fed. The same high pressure is used to atomize the paints. The coating is held in a
quart cup and it is drawn into the airstream by the high pressure airflow creating a vacuum. If
you are going to use the pressure-fed gun or the suction gun buy a good brand. Make sure the cup
has a means of venting that will allow you to position it horizontally without dripping paint on
your surface. The nozzles used with paint guns are as important as the gun itself. Certain nozzles
are to be used with specific types of coatings. You will need to purchase the proper nozzle
recommended by the manufacturer for the coating you will be spraying. If you choose the
conventional spraying method be absolutely sure you have moisture traps and filters on your air
compressor. Another point, if you are using a pressure pot you must keep the hoses clean. If they
are not properly cleaned particles of old paint will be loosened and sprayed onto your project. A
disadvantage of traditional high pressure painting is the high velocity of the paint particles as
they reach the surface. Many of the paint particles will actually bounce off the painted surface

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and gather in the air in the form of a cloud called overspray. Often a large percentage of the paint
itself (30-40%) which is used ends up as overspray on the floor or drawn through the filter. At
the price of paint that can amount to a lot of money passing through a filter.

High Volume, Low Pressure Systems

Because of the waste and overspray problem, a new technology was introduced: High-volume,
Low-pressure (HVLP). The pressure used in these systems to atomize the paint is much lower
(3-5psi). The paint cup is pressurized forcing material to the nozzle. As a result, the overspray
problem is minimized. Most of the paint actually adheres to the surface being painted instead of
bouncing off and collecting elsewhere. To achieve this advantage a HVLP spray gun must be
machined to a higher degree than an ordinary spray gun. The HVLP spray gun is designed to
gather the air inside the gun and send it downstream with as little pressure drop as possible. This
means careful machining must be carried out to reduce turbulence that impedes airflow. In older
pressure guns if a passage was too small you simply increased the pressure and solved the
problem. That means conventional spray guns do not have to be machined to exact specifications.

Two types of HVLP spray systems are available. One is the turbine system and the other is a
conversion spray gun. A conversion spray gun uses regular high pressure air and drops the
pressure before it goes into the gun. A conversion gun is simply a HVLP spray gun with a
regulator in its handle. This type of system requires a high capacity air compressor with moisture
traps. The HVLP type we will discuss is the "turbine system." An air compressor is not used with
the HVLP system. Instead, the system is equipped with a turbine not unlike your vacuum cleaner.
In fact, years ago Electrolux supplied a sprayer attachment with their vacuum cleaner. Evidently
that was the first HVLP system. The turbine need only supply a large volume of air to the gun to
work effectively, high pressure is not necessary. All that is needed is an air source that emits
about 50 cubic feet per minute of air at less than 10 psi that is sufficient to power the HVLP
spray gun. A turbine is a high-speed centrifugal blower motor operating near 20,000 RPM.
Because of the high RPM the air is heated due to the friction. This heat serves to eliminate all
moisture from the atomizing air. This heating effect also reduces the flash or drying time that
helps to minimize blushing. A HVLP system is sold with a turbine, hose, and spray gun. The
majority of the cost is found in the spray gun and not the turbine due to the machining
requirements of the gun discussed earlier.

HVLP spray guns also are either non-bleeder or bleeder. The term non-bleeder means that when
the user releases the trigger of the gun the air flow stops. With a bleeder gun the air flows
continuously; the trigger only starts and stops the flow of paint. A bleeder gun will provide a
better finish. However, use of a bleeder gun requires care because dirt and other objects can be
easily blown onto a painted surface.

Lets look at the advantages of the HVLP system. First of all, the overspray is reduced
dramatically. That means a saving in coatings typically of about 30-40%. Secondly, an air
compressor is not needed. The units come with a 110 volt turbine that can be used anywhere.
Thirdly, the moisture problem is eliminated. One of the most significant problems a painter faces
is the presence of moisture that can splatter onto a surface along with the paint. The heating of
the turbine introduces heat that eliminates up to 95% of the moisture content. Lastly, HVLP

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systems enable the beginning painter to achieve a professional looking finish. They are easier to
use than conventional spray outfits. Individuals who have experience painting with conventional
spray outfits will have to learn the different techniques required to use HVLP systems. HVLP
systems expend heavier amounts of material than conventional guns. This, of course, means
different techniques. Remote paint pots with capacities of 2.5 gallons are also available with
these systems.

The Axis HVLP paint system.

To conclude, HVLP paint systems have obvious advantages. Two different brands are shown in
the article. The price of these units is usually between $700-$800. That includes the turbine, 30
feet of hose, and the spray gun. You will also want to purchase additional nozzles for the spray
gun depending upon the type of paint you are spraying. Many people recommend an additional
length of hose that reduces the temperature of the air reaching the spray gun. If you have a
conventional system that is high quality then by all means use it. Professional painters have been
using conventional systems for years with excellent results.

SAFETY ISSUES

Certain health hazards do exist with spray painting. Of course, the hazards depend entirely upon
the chemical that is being sprayed. The most significant health hazard occurs when atomized
chemical particles are inhaled. You must protect yourself with an adequate respirator. A charcoal
filtered respirator, such as the one pictured, is sufficient for most primers, dopes, and paints.
However, if you are using any type of polyurethane paint you should have a forced air breathing
system. Polyurethane paints emit polyisocyanides that can be extremely hazardous to certain
individuals. Some people have severe reactions to polyurethanes so don't take a chance. A simple
forced air breathing system is pictured and is manufactured by HobbyAir. It is available for less
than $400. A good investment to protect your health.

A forced
air
breathing
system
available
from
HobbyAir.

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You also need to protect your skin. Wear Invisible Gloves barrier cream or latex gloves when
mixing or spraying. I would also recommend you purchase a Tyvek spraying suit. They are not
very expensive and they will protect both your skin and your clothes. If you do not use one of
these suits wear long sleeves and long pants. If you spill solvents on yourself, remove your
clothes and wash the area with soap and water and put on fresh clothes. Do not mix paints with
an electric drill. The motor could spark and cause a fire. Use eye protection in the form of
goggles when mixing and spraying. Keep an eye wash station nearby in case of emergency. You
should also have fire extinguishers handy that are rated for petroleum fires. Under certain
atmospheric conditions the action of sanding or spraying can generate static electricity. When
this static charge is transferred to a surface the resulting spark could ignite solvent vapors.
Ground the structures being sanded or sprayed.

Now that we have determined that we can paint our own airplane, we know what facilities are
required, and we understand the equipment, our discussion will be how to prepare different types
of surfaces and followed by a discussion of the actual spray painting process.

Part 2
Painting an airplane to achieve an award winning finish can present a challenge. In part 1 of this
article, I discussed the fact that you can paint an airplane yourself with quality results. The
spraying equipment, facility needed, and safety aspects were presented in that article. This part
deals with the preparation of surfaces and the basics of the painting process.

As previously mentioned, preparation demands 90% of the time involved in painting your own
airplane. Proper treatment of the component parts is both time consuming and essential. The most
common surfaces encountered in aircraft painting are aluminum, steel, wood, and fiberglass.

PREPARATION OF SURFACES

Aluminum

Aluminum surfaces are treated differently depending upon whether the metal is new or used.
Paint must be able to "grip" or adhere to the surface onto which it is applied. Most aluminum
surfaces have a layer of pure aluminum on the surface called alclad that protects the metal from
corrosion. It is very smooth and not favorable to paint adhesion. Therefore the surface must be
adequately prepared by cleaning and slightly roughening to guarantee primer adhesion. This is
accomplished by using a conversion coating such as alodine. This chemical process creates a
ceramic layer over the aluminum that coats the surface and provides tooth adhesion. Used
aluminum must have any primers, paints, or corrosion removed. Paint strippers are used to
remove old paint. After stripping old paint the corrosion should be completely eliminated. Use
fine sandpaper, Scotch Brite pads, or aluminum wool. Never use steel wool or a steel brush. After
the corrosion is removed the old aluminum should be acid etched. This is simply a process of
washing the aluminum with a product such as Poly Fiber's E-2310 Acid Etch diluted with water.
An acid etch removes oil and light corrosion while etching or roughening the surface to provide a

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firm primer bond. The part is then thoroughly rinsed. Next wash the surface with E-2300
Conversion Coating that inhibits corrosion and further enhances primer adhesion. After this step
the part is rinsed and allowed to completely dry. Once again, new aluminum surfaces need only
be treated with a conversion coating.

After the aluminum (new or old) has been properly cleaned and treated, it is then primed. I would
recommend using a two-part epoxy primer. An epoxy primer will insure corrosion protection and
also provide a bonding surface for most topcoat paints. Very often, polyurethane topcoats will lift
or wrinkle primers other than epoxies much as a paint stripper would do. A primer is necessary to
provide a bond between the metal and the final topcoat paint. The primer coat should be applied
according to the manufacturers directions. Usually, two light coats will be applied. Heavy coats
should be avoided.

Steel

Steel surfaces are much more susceptible to corrosion problems in the form of rust. This rust
must be completely removed prior to priming the part. Of course, any old paints or primers will
usually be stripped. Certainly, if you are going to paint over the existing topcoat you must still
deal with any rust that might be present. Removal of old paints can be accomplished with a bead
blaster or sand blaster. However, this must be done without pitting or damaging the metal. Using
the proper amount of pressure in blasting is essential. Once the structure has been stripped and
the rust eliminated, the metal must be protected within 1-2 hours. Be sure to have the primer and
spray equipment ready before you begin blasting or cleaning. Rust will begin to form on a bare
steel surface within a very short period of time. Just as with aluminum, after cleaning the
structure prime it using an epoxy primer. Be sure to clean the surface with a surface cleaner just
prior to priming.

Wood

Wooden surfaces are usually covered with fabric. They still must be properly prepared to prevent
rotting problems from moisture. Usually the part will be dry sanded and then varnished using a
two-part epoxy varnish. Solvents used in fabric covering systems will "lift" most varnishes other
than epoxies. If you plan to paint directly over the wood itself, an epoxy varnish must be used.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass parts should be sanded smooth and primed using an epoxy primer. Of course, if you
are building a composite airplane the surfaces must be filled and primed in the manner discussed
in a previous article on composite construction.

As a general review, all surfaces must be cleaned, any corrosion removed, and then primed prior
to painting. Epoxy primers come in a variety of colors. The most popular colors are green,
yellow, and white. White colors are much easier to cover with final topcoats. It is your choice.
Zinc chromate has been used for years as a primer. However, its popularity is decreasing with the
advent of epoxies. Zinc chromate should not be used if you plan to apply polyurethane paint.

The elapsed time between priming and applying the topcoat will vary depending upon the brand

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of paint used. Different manufacturers use varying times. Usually, an epoxy primer should
completely cure and harden prior to applying the topcoat. That process takes several days
depending upon the temperature and humidity. Often, a full week is needed. The primer then
needs to be scuff sanded to obtain the needed adhesion for the topcoat.

Sanding

Proper sanding is a very important step in acquiring a high quality finish. If you want a high
gloss you will
spend time sanding. Sanding is usually accomplished using wet/dry sandpaper and water. The
grit of sandpaper used is dependent upon the surface and its roughness. Usually 180 grit all the
way to 600 grit or higher sandpaper is used. Sanding actually flattens the surface of the object
you are painting. It also removes any imperfections that may be present such as small pieces of
dirt. You should use a sanding block when possible. Pneumatic orbital sanders can be used in
larger areas. When holding a piece of sandpaper in your hand, fold it in thirds to maximize the
use of the sandpaper. You can more efficiently use the paper this way. A straight back and forth
movement is preferred over a circular movement. Sanding 45 degrees one direction and then 45
degrees in the other direction works well.

TOPCOAT PAINTS

You have a choice of the type of topcoat paint along with a large number of brand names.
Enamel is a paint that is commonly used on aircraft surfaces. These paints are sprayed over
epoxy primer after being thinned to proper consistency using enamel thinners. A light, mist coat
is first sprayed on and allowed to dry for a few minutes until it is tacky to the touch. This is then
followed by a full coat of enamel. One full coat may be sufficient or another may be sprayed if
desired. The use of enamel is not as popular as it was in the past.

A second type of topcoat paint is acrylic lacquer. This paint has a low solid content that makes it
more difficult to apply. Acrylic lacquer should be thinned using the proper thinner and then a
very light tack coat applied. An additional 4-5 cross coats of paint will then have to be applied
allowing about 30 minutes drying time between coats. (By the way, a cross-coat is defined as
moving the spray gun north and south followed by east and west: one cross coat).

Polyurethane paint is probably the most popular choice for a topcoat today. It is very durable and
provides a high gloss finish. It is also chemically resistant. These paints have a high solid content
and they cure very slowly which means they continue to flow out for a long period of time. This
flowing out process forms a very flat surface that gives the surface a high gloss look.
Polyurethane enamels are mixed with a catalyst prior to use. They are then reduced to proper
viscosity for spraying. A very light tack coat is first applied followed by one or two full coats.
One problem inherent in polyurethanes is the thickness of the film applied. If the paint is applied
too thick it may tend to crack over a period of time. This is especially true when applied over
fabric. The fabric on an airplane will flex and move during flight. This movement coupled with
the thickness of polyurethane paint can present a problem. Polyurethane paints designed for
fabric airplanes are manufactured and should be used when painting over polyester fabrics.

The one major problem encountered when using polyurethane paints is its toxicity. Breathing the

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spray mist from polyurethanes may cause severe sickness or even death. With this in mind, you
must
use a forced air breathing system such as the HobbyAir system. You should also protect your
skin and eyes.

If you are painting a fabric airplane, you can use a specially designed polyurethane topcoat,
butyrate dope, or Poly-Tone. Butyrate dope and Poly-Fiber's Poly-Tone are both very easy to
apply because they are more viscous. Therefore, they are less likely to run when applied.

No matter which paint you choose a few fundamentals apply. First of all, the paint needs to be
properly mixed. That means shaking the paint on a paint shaker within one week of application.
After shaking the paint it should then be thoroughly stirred just prior to use. Secondly, the
surfaces should be wiped down with a paint cleaning solvent using a clean rag. Then a tack rag
should be used to remove any dust. Thirdly, the paint should be properly thinned by following
the manufacturers directions. A viscosity cup can be used for the thinning procedure. These are
small cups with a hole in the bottom. The cup is filled with paint and then the viscosity is
determined by the amount of time, in seconds, required for the paint to flow through the hole
until it begins to drip. The next step is to strain the paint through a mesh paint strainer. This
should be done prior to placing the paint into the spray cup. If you are using a polyurethane paint,
you should strain the paint prior to mixing the catalyst.

Mixing the catalyst in polyurethane paints should be done in accordance with the directions from
the manufacturer. Usually, you should let the catalyst react with the base paint for at least 20
minutes prior to spraying. Once you have mixed the paint you will have approximately 5 hours
before the chemical crosslinking begins and the mixture begins to thicken. With that in mind,
only mix the amount of paint you will need for the job. If you mixed too much paint you can
place it in a freezer (not with food) overnight, remove it and allow it to reach room temperature
before spraying. The cold temperature delays the crosslinking process.

When applying the final color coats, always be sure the paint you are using has the same batch
number. Slight differences in color can often be found in different batches of paint. One solution
is to open all of the cans of paint you will be using and mix them together in a large container.
They can then be poured back into the original containers after being mixed.

Other chemicals in addition to reducers that you may encounter are retarders and accelerators. A
paint retarder very simply is a solvent that slows the drying time of the paint. It is added in
proportion to the directions on the paint can. Retarders are generally used in high temperature or
high humidity conditions. Accelerators have the opposite affect. They speed up the drying time.
Accelerators may be required to help the drying process in cool temperatures.

PAINTING PROCESS

The final preparation of the aircraft involves protecting every component part that will not
receive paint. This means the windshield, if installed, needs to be protected. pitot tubes, static
ports, tires, etc. must all be covered. Be sure to use a good quality butcher paper to cover these
items. Do not use newspaper, the print will often come off onto your airplane's surface. The
painting equipment and the paint facility were discussed in detail last month. A list of general

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tools and equipment is:

Drop cloths to protect the floor.

Plastic sheet
Coffee cans
Tack cloths
Paint filters
Stirring sticks
Masking tape
Fine-line masking tape
Butcher paper or masking paper
Clean rags
Wet/dry sandpaper
Sanding blocks
Scotch-brite pads
Orbital sander (optional)
Single edge razors
Plastic squeegee
Soup ladle for dipping paint
Scissors
Viscosity cup
Hand held agitator to use with pneumatic drill

Now let's discuss the actual process of painting. The most important aspect of learning how to
paint can be summarized in three words: PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. Do not practice
on your airplane. Get several pieces of cardboard and learn how to properly set up the spray gun.
Then practice the spraying technique on the cardboard. Next, spray pieces of metal lying flat on a
surface. Then spray the metal pieces hanging vertically. When you feel really confident, buy a
piece of stovepipe or a large diameter pvc pipe and paint it. Stand it vertically and paint the entire
piece. When you can do this without major mistakes you are ready to begin on your airplane. If
possible, always begin the painting process with a small control surface.

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FIGURE 1
This illustrates the
proper distance
from spray gun to
the structure

The actual adjustment of a spray gun depends upon the equipment you are using. The
manufacturer should provide you with a set of instructions on setting up the gun. You should use
the type of spray gun nozzle recommended for the type of paint you will be spraying. The gun
should be properly adjusted each time you spray. A test pattern should always be sprayed on a
piece of cardboard before beginning to paint. The normal pattern for a spray gun will be fan
shaped. To begin the actual application procedure, hold the spray gun approximately 8 inches
from the surface you will be painting. Spreading your fingers as illustrated in Figure 1 will
usually approximate this distance. This distance may vary somewhat depending upon whether
you are using a HVLP system or a pressure spray gun. The spray gun should be far enough away
so the paint does not run or sag when applied and close enough to lay on a wet coat. To prevent
the paint from being uneven, it is imperative that the gun be held exactly perpendicular to the
surface. If it is tilted the paint will be heavier on one side and lighter on the other. See Figure 2.
The spray gun should then be moved parallel to the surface only the distance you can
comfortably move your entire arm while keeping the movement exactly parallel. See Figure 3. If
the gun is moved in an arc the material will be applied heavier in some places and lighter in
others. You should squeeze the trigger of the gun just prior to beginning the paint stroke and
release it just before it is completed. You then should move up or down approximately fan width
and begin the next pass. You must overlap the passes to achieve an even build-up. Each pass of
the gun will usually apply the paint more thick in the middle with a tapering off on each end.
Remember our definition of a cross-coat, one pass north and south followed by a pass east and
west.

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FIGURE 2
If the gun is not held
perpendicular to the
surface, one side of the
spray pattern will be wet
with a tendency to run,
and the other side will be
rough and dry.
Proper lighting is absolutely essential when painting. For best results try to position your lights
45 degrees to the surface being painted. By looking into the glare of a light you will detect heavy
and light areas of material. Of course, heavy areas will often result in sags or runs. Paint the
edges of the structure first. Edges often do not receive an adequate amount of paint. Painting
them first will solve this problem. If at all possible, paint on a flat surface. Of course, that is not
always feasible. Paint will sag or run much more easily on a vertical surface. Spraying in corners
and around corners presents a problem. Practice in areas such as this to establish the proper
technique. As a general rule, spray the corner first whether it is inside or outside then you can
blend the paint in with subsequent strokes.

As I mentioned last month, it is much easier to paint your airplane prior to assembling it.
Practically speaking many builders will assemble their airplane, test fly it, and then paint it. If
you do paint your airplane while it is in one piece there is a definite sequence you should follow.
First of all, you will want to paint ends and leading edges of surfaces. Paint the bottom of the
airplane first by beginning at the tail. Spray from the tail control surfaces all the way up the
fuselage to the engine then spray the underneath side of the wings. It is much easier if you can
persuade another painter to help you. That person can paint at the same time you are painting
with one of you staying slightly ahead of the other. Often it is impossible for one person to reach
entirely across a wing. The trick of the entire process is to keep the surface wet all the time.

After spraying the underneath side of the airplane you then should spray the vertical stabilizer,
the top of the tail surfaces, the top of the fuselage, and then the top of the wings. It is more
difficult to paint the airplane when it is assembled. Overspray is the problem. You must keep
overspray off the surfaces you have finished. I would recommend visiting a local paint shop and
watching their techniques. There are a number of ways to do this and each painter has a trick or
technique. When you paint the airplane unassembled the problems are minimized.

As a rule of thumb, a white coat of paint should be applied prior to final colors. This will provide
better coverage with less material and also bring out a more brilliant color in the final coats.
White primer will serve this purpose. Do not try to cover red paint with a lighter color. Red
should always be the last coat sprayed.

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FIGURE 3
The paint spray gun must
be moved parallel to the
surface. If the gun is
moved in an arc, the
spray pattern will be thick
in some spots and thin in
others.

Once you have completed the base color you will then be ready for the trim colors. A sufficient
amount of drying time should be allowed once again according to the manufacturer's
recommendation. Usually at least 12 hours is needed. Some poly urethane manufacturers direct
users to wait at least one week until the paint is more fully cured. After one week the area to be
painted should be lightly sanded to provide tooth adhesion. Use the best grade of masking tape
available. I would recommend 3M's fine line tape that is designed for trim use. Remember, do not
use newspaper to cover areas only good Kraft paper. Apply the tapes and then use a small plastic
squeegee to press down the edges of the tapes just prior to spraying. Pull the tapes off when the
paint dries to the touch, usually 1-2 hours. When pulling the tapes off pull toward the new paint.
Do not leave the tape on for a long period of time.

You will encounter problems. Runs and sags are perhaps the most common. These usually form
as the result of improper spraying techniques, such as the gun too close to the surface, or the
material is too thin. When you create a run or sags simply stop and let the paint dry. If it is a
polyurethane you should let it dry several days. Then go back and sand out the run or sag and
respray the area. An orange peel look is also a common problem. That usually results from the air
pressure being too high in a pressure gun, the paint too viscous, or improper solvent. Blistering of
the paint is a result of the surface not being properly primed or moisture being present on the
surface. A coarse finish is another problem that occurs because the surface was not thoroughly
cleaned.

The final step is the one everyone dislikes: clean-up. If you are going to preserve your spray gun
you must clean it thoroughly. This means taking the gun apart and cleaning it with a solvent,
either reducer or MEK. Remember, protect your hands from any solvent. After a complete
cleaning some painters will actually leave the nozzle of the gun in a solvent until the next job.
You also want to properly dispose of any waste.

Good site for information on Methyl Ethyl Ketone solvent:

http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/chem_profiles/mek/

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