The development of a garment comprises of different process.
Fit is the most important factor
leading to the final acceptance or rejection of a garment. Fit must be designed into the original
pattern through subtleties in the pattern that provide fullness unobtrusively at appropriate
locations to accommodate body bulges in a flattering manner (Hudson). Good customized fit is
dependent on the pattern drafting incorporating various shapes and proportions of the
individual customer. With the onset of the Industrial Revolution, standardized patterns were
essential to the success of ready-to-wear clothing.
Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to
conform to one or more curves of the human figure . Pattern making is a bridge function
between design and production. A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which
interprets the design in the form of the garment components (Cooklin).
A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and depth. With in this
roughly cylindrical framework there are a series of secondary curves and bulges, which are of
concern to the pattern maker. Darts are the basis of all pattern making. They convert the flat
piece of cloth into a three dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.
A patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two
dimensional fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern
making, fit and design are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern
designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and
comfort (Shoben and Ward).
Methods of Pattern Making
Pattern making involves three methods-
Drafting
Draping
Flat paper patternmaking
Drafting: It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate measurements
taken on a person, dress or body form. Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease
allowances are marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern.
Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design patterns.
Draping: It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a form, conforming
to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. This muslin is transferred to paper to
be used as a final pattern (Armstrong). Ease allowances for movement are added to make the
garment comfortable to wear. Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall
design effect of the finished garment on the body form before the garment piece is cut and
sewn. However, it is more expensive and time consuming than flat pattern making.
Flat Pattern Making: It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to
fit a person or body form. A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple
pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and
Ward). Five basic pattern pieces are used for womens clothing. They include a snug-fitting
bodice front and bodice back with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt front
and back with darts. However, as fashion changes frequently womens styles fluctuate
frequently. These basic slopers are then manipulated to create fashions.
asics of Pattern Making
Basics of Pattern Making