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pattern making
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100% found this document useful (11 votes)
4K views22 pagesLutterloh Advanced Guide
pattern making
Uploaded by
zivaCopyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF or read online on Scribd
/ 22
ADVANCED
GUIDE
oS
Se US ee
° LEARN DESIGNER’S SECRETS!
¢ MONEY SAVING METHODS!
¢ FIT PANTS PERFECTLY!
© TIPS FOR BEGINNERS AND EXPERTS! ADVANCED
GUIDE
TO THE
ILUTTERLOH PATTERN SYSTEM CONTENTS
Tadex .
Introduction .......4
The Golden Rule ...,
Symbols Page
Pattern Naking Tools
The (BABEE VERE vere oes os boinatgy +
How To Take Measurements .......
Make Vest Pattern .........005
Transfer Markings
Cut Out Vest .. bie alee Pie +
Fitting The Basic Vest
Shoulder Adjustment
Bust Dart Adjustment ..
Body Length Adjustment
Body Dart Placement/Fitting
Facings ...,...
Interfacings ..
Linings ..
Shoulder Pads are
Sewing Instructions ............ 21,22
Pattern Taterchangeability 23,24,25,26
Drafting Pants ....... + 27,28
Fitting Pants Type A... +++ 29,30
Fitting Pants Type B. oe SG Bg!
Dratting Skirts .. 33
Drafting Sleeves, Collars” 34
Drafting Pockets. Waistbands ...... 34
Using Demonstration Leaflet ....... 35
Children's Patterns ..........2.... 36
Men's Patterns .. scecte 9 8
Fabric Allowance/Suggestions ...... 37
Fabric Conversion Charts
Stretch Fabrics ....,
Customer's Letters
The Author ......
THE LUTTERLOH PATTERN SYSTEM
The Lutterloh Pattern System was developed in West
Germany in 1935, by Mrs. Maria Aloisa Lutterloh.
Today it is the most successful pattern system on
the market, used by millions of severs around the
vorld, The system is available in 25 countries
and printed in 14 different languages.
Several European fashion houses contribute to the
pattern collection, to give you a wide range of
classical, timeless and modern garments.
The complete Lutterloh Pattern System contains 280
patterns, that are interchangeable, thus giving you
thousands of different designs.
Most patterns are for women; some patterns for men
and children have been included as well.
To update your pattern collection, 40 new patterns
are published every season, Spring, Summer, Fall
and Winter.
‘The Lutterloh System uses only 2 measurements to
make perfect fitting patterns for any figure type
or size.
After you have made your first pattern, you will
agree, this is the best pattern making method for
today's busy sever.
SIMPLE, FAST and ACCURATE | THE GOLDEN RULE
Tt has been discovered long ago, that the human body
is in perfect mathematical proportion within itself.
Great artists, just like Leonardo Da Vinci, have
used this knowledge, to create their beauriful
masterpieces.
‘THE MEASUREMENTS OF THE HUMAN BODY ARE:
= full length of body
1/2 H = upper part of body
1/4 H= length of leg from ankle to knee and length
from chin to navel
1/6 H = length of foot
1/8 H = length of head, from crown to chin
1/10 H = height of face, also length of hand
1/12 H = width of face
‘The span
tip t
of laterally outstretched arms, from finger~
fingertip, is equal to the body height.
‘The forearm, from elbow to wrist, equals the length
of the foot.
The circumference of the little finger X 3, equals
the wrist.
These measurements apply to all healthy, fully groun
adults.
ENN CHU ROOZ ZENE OME OOED
e
ot eal F!|
Dee Peete eee eee
INTERNATIONAL
front
back
side
skirt
sleeve
cuff
collar
belt/waistband
pocket
yoke
coat
bow
pleated part
matching set
dickey
trimmings
flounce
Jabot
apron
pocket flap
trousers
sleeve front
three times
straight of grain
ther
elastic
facing
zipper
fuller figure
maternity wear
pattern number
#SS ES NSSAGBRSSSSESERTRSRSE
= @® «..
TeCePcrr eee eee errr rere er eee)
SYMBOLS PAGE
cape
tie
loose part
apron ribbon
lapel
hood
basic pattern
pleat
center back
buttonhole panel
lace or trim
blouse
shoulder strap
buckle
frills
bolero
facings
peplua
jacket
center front
left side
right side
dining
press stud
hook and eye
sewing sequence
knit/stretch fabric
contrasting color
fabric allovance PATTERN MAKING TOOLS
TOOLS INCLUDED WITH THE LUTTERLOH PATTERN SYSTEM
1, Lutterloh Pattern Diagrams*
2. Sizing Scale and Metric Tape*
3. Felt Pen
4. Push Pins
5. Scotch Tape
‘TOOLS RECOMMENDED FOR PATTERN DRAFTING
Vellum Paper
French Curve®
Designer's Curve®™
Tailor's Curve®
Shears
Rotary Cutter
Rotary Cutting Mat®
Plywood Sheet 0.6cm (4") 61x122cm (24"x 48")
Vellum Paper is a strong, stiff, non-tearing paper,
that is critical to obtain that perfect fit for
your basic vest and pants. (Blank newsprint is
excellent to make all subsequent patterns. )
French Curve* is the original tool developed for
pattern drafting. All patterns can be drafted with
this tool.
* Not available in stores.
Designer's Curve * has been developed to make pattern
drafting easier and faster. The Designer's Curv
is used on collars, necklines, shoulders, dart:
armholes, sleeve caps, sleeves and hip curves.
Tailor's Curve * comes in two pieces, and has been
developed for drafting pants. One piece is used for
drawing the crotch curve. The long and gentle curve
is used to drav inseams and hip curves. They are also
suitable for necklines, raglan and dolman sleeves.
Ss
Rotary Cutter is like a rolling razor blade. Cutting
is now possible in any direction with either right
or left hand. Rotary Cutters can be used by people
who suffer from arthritis or tendonitis.
Nany layers of fabric may be cut with ease, leaving
a clean, smooth, edge. The Rotary Cutter reduces
the cutting time tremendously on fabrics and paper
patterns.
Rotary Cutting Mat is used together with the Rotary
Cutter. The Rotary Cutter is very sharp and will
damage any surface, except the Rotary Cutting Mat.
The Nat protects your table and keeps the blade sharp.
Sizes available: 24"x36", 40"x60"*, 48"x96"*
Plywood is used under the Vellum Paper, to protect
the table and to hold the Push Pin firmly. (Cardboard
cutting boards will not hold the pin.)
* Not available in stores.
6 THE BASIC VEST
Every person using the Lutterloh System, must have
a BASIC VEST PATTERN out of paper,(it doesn't have
to be sewn) in order to get the perfect fit that
you expect froma designer garment.
Making the vest, will give you practice in pattern
making*and teach you how to fit a garment. Correct
shoulder width, smooth armholes and necklines, proper
dart position and correct body length.
‘The vest will be your BASIC PATTERN, and your
reference guide to all Lutterloh patteras.
TIP: If you change weight, (10 £44 on mone, ) make
anew vest, as the whole patter shape will change,
z Bust = 100cm, Hip
caccea= Bust = 960m Hip
96cm
HOW TO TAKE TI
MEASUREMENTS
You need only tvo measurements to enlarge the
Lutterloh pattern:
BUST MEASUREMENT
Is used to enlarge all pattern parts above and
including the waist.
Lift the tape over the shoulder blades, under the
arms and over the fullest part of the bust.
HIP MEASUREMENT
Is used to enlarge all pattern parts below the
waist.
Measure over fullest part of the hip and just below
the stomach,
MATERNITY WEAR
All patterns can be used for maternity wear,
provided you choose a straight through cut. (No
waist line).
Take the Bust measurement as usual. For the Hip
measurement, measure over fullest part of the hip
d lift the tape to the fullest part of the
stomach.
TIP; Ael Luttertoh patterns have the wearing ease
included. Take the measurement according to how
garment is worn,
BATHING SUITS, LINGERIE
Measure over kare skin.
DRESSES, BLOUSES, TOPS, SKIRTS AND PANTS
Measure over undergaraents,
VEST, JACKETS AND COATS
Measure over ktouse, pullover on dress. VEST PATTERN
* Spread out pattern paper. 60x90cm (24x36")
* Tape yellow pattern diagram onto the paper.
(Folded so that only front vest is showing.)
* Find the Bust measurement on the sizing scale.
(Always start working with the Bust measurement
and the upper part of the pattern.)
* Push pin through corresponding line on the scale.
(Where the dot or hole is.)
* Then, push the pin and scale into the center cross
Point of the pattern. (Exactly where the two lines
meet. In some cases the cross is outside the
pattern. An arrow on the cross, points toward the
Pattern to which the cross belongs. )
* Align the edge of the sizing scale parallel
inst the line with # 19. (Fig. a)
* Extend the measuring tape. (Hold the tape taut
with thumb and forefinger so the tape rotates
freely on the pivot point.) Match the cm f 19 of
the pattern and draw a dot onto the paper.
* Next is 19cm, 11 (= bust point), 374, 36, 35,
33, 19, 15, 18, 18 and STOP.
MEASUREMENT, REMOVE THE PIN from the center cross
Point and scale. MOVE THE PIN TO THE NUMBER OF
‘THE HIP MEASUREMENT.
* Insert the pin back into the center cross point
and continue with the Hip measurement, for all
numbers below the Waist, # 26, 21 and 20,
* Remove pin with tape and scale.
* Use straight edge of ruler to join the dots.
(Dray straight lines first.)
* Use curved edge of ruler on curved lines. (Try to
connect 3 dots, and start at the more gentle part
of the curve.) (Fig. b)
* Transfer all markings from the pattern di
onto your pattern.
rem
IP YOUR HIP MEASUREMENT IS DIFFERENT FROM THE BUST ‘SHOULD!
ADJUSTMENT
PROBLEM: Pattern feels tight through the shoulders,
front and/or back. Back neck line seems to big.
This occurs when the shoulders slope leas than the
pattern.
SOLUTION: Open the shoulder seam at the armhole to
lem (3/8") from the neck line. Let the pattern drop
until the neck line fits smoothly. Measure the
opening at the armhole, divide in 2, add to pattern
and taper to original seam at the neck. (See
example).
‘The opposite is done for sloping shoulders.
APPLICATION OF SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT:
‘The same adjustment will have to be done on all
Lutterlok patterns that are worn without shoulder
pads. If a sleeve is present the same adjustment
has to be made on the sleeve cap in order to fit
the adjusted armhole, (See example.)
SHOULDER BUST DART ADJUSTMENT
1, Mark bust point on the pattern.
2, Measure 24cm (1") back from bust point.
3. Redraw the dart lines.
4. Fold new dart and adjust shoulder seam line.
TIP: Darts should stop 2hen (1") kefore the fullest
part of the ust. (C, D, and E cups, 3-6 om (14-14")
lower
SIDE BUST DART ADJUSTMENT
1, Follow previous example 1,2 and 3.
4. Fold new dart and adjust side seam,
higher lower * Remove the pattern diagram and set your pattern
aside.
* Make vest back. Start with Bust measurement # 36,
36, 32, 19, 15, 154, 14 and change pin to the Hip
urement # 224 and 22.
* Transfer all markings.
* Cut out the pattern. (Using a rotary cutter is
very quick.)
The finished pattern now corresponds with your
measurements.
‘TRANSFER MARKINGS
STRAIGHT OF GRAIN: Parallel along center front.
WAIST: At # 18 (side seam) straight across the
pattern, parallel with hemline.
CENTER CROSS POINT: Straight across the pattern,
parallel with the waist line. (This is where the
Pattern is adjusted, according to your body length.)
BODY DART: Draw a straight line parallel along
the CF, same distance from CF as bust point.
SEWING SEQUENCE: "A" under armhole. (See below)
TIP: Cut out the front pattern piece first, Lay
4t on top of the back pattern and check abi ailjoining
seam Lengths. Adjust back piece if necessary.
FITTING THE BASIC VEST
® Fold bust dart to CF and pin to hold in place.
* Fold body dart in half. (Along ---~ line.)
* Tape front and back pieces together at shoulder
and side s
Check the following points for a proper fit:
SHOULDER: Adjust for square or sloping. (Pg. 13)
BUST DART: Use pen to mark bust point. (Pg. 14)
BODY LENGTH: Use pen to mark pattern at the waist
on CB, side seam and CF. (Pg. 15)
BODY DART: Pin or pinch in as much as needed,
according to the shape and size of your vaist.
(Pg. 16)
‘THE EXACT SAME CHANGES THAT ARE MADE ON THE VEST,
(WILL HAVE TO BE MADE ON ALL LUTTERLOH PATTERNS,
before cutting the fabric.
TIP: Wear proper undergarments, and a cotton 7-
think without shoulder pads, fon the fitting of
the vest. BODY LENGTH ADJUSTMENT
* Measure the distance from your waist (the pen mark
on the pattern) to the waist of the pattern,
on CF, side seam and CB.
* Mark these measurements from the cross point
down towards the waist (see examples), on CF, side
seam and CB.
* Shorten or lengthen accordingly, (Body length is
not adjusted ot the waist, in order not to change
tne shape of the waist line.)
TIP: Ip the front on tack vs different in Length,
example CF und side seam 2em (3/¢"! shonter, and
CB ty bem (14") shorter, shorten the vest by Zen
03/6") faont and Gack. Redraw the warst- and henline
2em (3/4") higher on the CB onty and cut off the
excess at the hemline. The CB hentine will Ce uneven
on the pattern, but book straight on the person.
BODY DART PLACEMENT
‘The front body dart is always located below the bust
point, and the center of the dart is parallel with
the center front of the garment. The back body dart
is always located below the shoulder blades, and the
center of the dart is parallel with the center back.
Fold the center of the dart on the pattern and pin it
in, according to the shape and size of your vaist.
‘The darts should end 24cm (1") before the bust point
and the shoulder blades. Use this technique on all
patterns that call for body darts, to get the look
fit that you desire,
71P: Cut the darts cut on the pattem, then use
chatk to matk the darts onto the fakric. Tailor tack
the darts. The darts with ke connect as you sew the
garment. FACINGS
Generally necklines and sleeveless armholes require
facings. They are shown on your Lutterloh pattern
WIM and marked with an ST. Draw all facing
pieces directly onto your pattern, using a different
color pen. Recommended facing width is 34-Scm (1J-
2"). You may add facings where none is shown, in
order to finish the garment differently than shown.
1. Draw the facing line 3}-5em (11-2") from the
edge, following the same shape as the area to
vellum paper to trace your individual facing
pieces and transfer all markings.
3. Cut out facing pieces. (Remember to add seam
allowance)
UIP: The facing shoulil always be a Little smutter
then the garment to avoid gaping neckLines and
armholes.
To ensune a smooth fit, cut ahl facing pieces
hem (4") smaller on shoukiler seams (for neckeures
and aamholes), and on side seams (Lor armholes).
An extra hem (4") can be taken to compensate for
round shoulders at the back/ shoulder seam, on front/
aide seam for a fuller bust.
INTERFACING
Interfacings are not marked on the Lutterloh patterns.
Interfacing is used to add stability and shape to
certain parts of a garment. Facings usually require
interfacing. Interfacing should be lighter weight
than the fashion fabric.
BLOUSES AND DRESSES
Collar, neckline facing, front facing, plackets and
cuffs.
JACKETS AND COATS
Collar, lapel, neckline facing, front facing,
plackets, cuffs, pockets, sleeve hems and jacket/coat
hems.
PANTS AND SKIRTS
Waistband.
‘TRIMS
Fabric covered buttons, fabric belts, appliques,
cut-in corners and other stress point:
TP: Fusikie interfacing 1s ty fon the easiest and
foe kndl Pubeles andl on 1008
ccelate fashion fatrics, (Satin taffeta, jacquard).
Absays make a sample, DRAFTING PANTS
Take Hust, Hip and Waist measurements.
Use Bust measurement for Waist points only.
Use Hip measurement for all points below the
Waist.
Join all dots. (1f a dot is out of line, realign
the dot according to the pattern diagram.)
Transfer all symbols. (Straight of grain is from
the center of the leg hem through the cross point.
Remove the pattern diagram.
Compare your Waist measurement against the pattern,
Divide the difference (plus or minus) by 4, and ad
or subtract that amount on the side seams. Redraw
the side seam from vaist to hip. (Fig. c)
Cut out the pattern.
Tape inseam of pant together and try on.
Adjust leg length at cross point. (Leg length is
not adjusted at the hem, in order not to change
the style line of the leg.)
TIP: Fokd pleats Loward the center front. This
well conceal a tummy and give a stimner Look. Redrus
the straight of gaain from the center of the front
keg hem, to the Lirst pleat on the waist. (Fig. c)
Fon styles without pleats, straight of yaain
