Hindawi Publishing Corporation

Advances in Materials Science and Engineering

Volume 2013, Article ID 168503, 7 pages
http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2013/168503

Research Article
The Influence of Emulsifier on Rheological and
Sensory Properties of Cosmetic Lotions

Tereza Moravkova and Petr Filip

Institute of Hydrodynamics, Academy of Sciences of the Czech Republic, 16612 Prague, Czech Republic

Correspondence should be addressed to Tereza Moravkova; moravkova@ih.cas.cz

Received 14 May 2013; Accepted 9 July 2013

Academic Editor: Steven Suib

Copyright © 2013 T. Moravkova and P. Filip. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution
License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly
cited.

Three body lotions (water-in-oil type) differing only in the emulsifier content were subjected to rheological measurements and
sensory analysis with the aim to obtain coupling between the selected rheological characteristics and sensory factors. Both methods
proved different behaviour of the samples caused by the difference in the emulsifying compound. To detect the relations between
rheological (application of the power law model) and sensory variables, the four most important characteristics from sensory
assessment (ease of pouring from the bottle, ease of spreading on a palm, thickness, and ease of spreading on back of hand) were
selected. A close coupling (and hence mutual substitution) was found between consistency parameter k and thickness, k and the
ease of pouring from the bottle, and also k and the mean droplet size.

1. Introduction of continuous and dispersed phase, particle radius, concen-

tration of particles, thermal energy, and interfacial tension.
Cosmetic lotions are formed by two immiscible liquids with Danov [3] proposed an analytical expression for the viscosity
different polarities, and each emulsion is exposed to appear- of dilute emulsions in the presence of emulsifiers. However,
ance of various types of instabilities. Creaming, sedimenta- cosmetic lotions are generally emulsions with high-water
tion, flocculation, Ostwald ripening, coalescence, and phase content (70–90%) and lower viscosity, often o/w (oil-in-
inversion (Tadros [1]) represent the unwanted changes that water) type. Lotions of w/o (water-in-oil) type are less com-
should be suppressed. An addition of emulsifier represents mon. On the other hand, experimental determination of rhe-
an often used method of how to stabilize a structure of ological characteristics seems to be in general well elaborated,
emulsions: continuous carrier liquid and the other one are and they can be used for a prediction of such properties as
homogeneously distributed in the form of discrete droplets. spreadability or pouring of cosmetic lotion from a bottle.
A presence of emulsifier exhibits two favourable inputs—a For evaluation of these properties, sensory analysis is
decrease in interfacial tension between both liquids and a taken as a primary tool differentiating between consumer-
stabilization of the dispersed phase against coalescence. A friendly and negative attributes of the cosmetic lotions usu-
choice of emulsifier represents one of the final steps in the ally used in the form of body lotions or cleansing lotions for
process of development of a new cosmetic lotion. Its other- face. From the viewpoint of product’s sales potential, sensory
wise inevitable usage (0.5–5%) evokes a question on how its characteristics occupy a privileged position (Lukic et al. [4]).
application can affect two principal groups of cosmetic-lotion This is a reason why methodology of sensory evaluation of
characteristics, namely, the rheological and sensory ones. cosmetic products is intensively investigated. A method pre-
Theoretical determination of rheological characteristics sented by Gilbert et al. [5] uses Spectrum Descriptive Analysis
is rather complicated. Pal [2] summarizes that emulsion vis- to evaluate cosmetic creams with different texturing agents.
cosity depends on overall ten entry parameters: shear rate, Spectrum Descriptive Analysis provides an accurate sensory
time, viscosity of continuous and dispersed phase, density description of products by rating each attribute on absolute
2 Advances in Materials Science and Engineering

or universal scales. This method allows the comparison of simple measurement, can be used as a surrogate for rheolog-
relative intensities within a product or among products. ical measurements.
From the previous, it is apparent that rheological and Rheological measurement can be also used for the deter-
sensory properties are coupled, not detached. As stated by mination of the optimal content of the active ingredient as
Karsheva et al. [6], the rheological behaviour of cosmetic applied by Abu-Jdayil et al. [13] who analyzed the Dead Sea
products is one of the most important features not only from salt content in cosmetic emulsions.
technical, but also from the aesthetic point of view. These The objective of this study is to specify the influence of a
products are expected not only to be easy to use, but also to small change in the composition of a cosmetic emulsion to
meet sensory criteria that will appeal to the customer. Rhe- its rheological and textural properties. To detect this, three
ological properties are often directly related to the product’s cosmetic emulsions, water-in-oil body lotions, differing in a
sensory attributes and to its performance. ratio of emulsifier were prepared. Samples were analyzed by
Rheological analysis is quite extended in recent research rheological procedures and sensory analysis, and the particle
of cosmetic emulsions, but only some studies include the size was evaluated. The results were compared with the
connection with sensory analysis. Nakagawa and Ueda [7] ingredients of the sample to assess the role of the emulsifier.
applied rheological measurements to different cosmetic Afterwards, a relationship among detected characteristics was
emulsions and found significant correlation between the rhe- specified to find out a connection among the used methods.
ological measurement results and those of microscopic obser-
vations, sensory evaluations, and stability tests. Reeve and 2. Experimental
Amigoni [8] illustrated the use of rheological characterization
for research, development, or quality control through the test 2.1. Materials. Three samples of body lotions, denoted as
of four sun creams with different consistencies. Ibǎnescu et al. BL1, BL2, and BL3, were prepared. Each sample contains 5
[9] found a good correlation between rheological parameters wt.% of emulsifiers (different for different samples) and 95
and sensory perception of the consumer. Three oil-in-water wt.% of other components (identical for all three samples).
cosmetic emulsions were studied using simple and oscillatory The composition of the samples is documented in Table 1
shear rheological tests. In regard of consumers’ demand for (including the suppliers).
natural cosmetics, Karsheva and Georgieva [10] investigated The structure of all three body lotions differed only in the
the effect of the plant extracts as well as the influence of composition of an emulsifier. In all three cases, the emulsifier
the solvent on the product flow properties. Morávková and consisted of the three same basic components (see Table 2)
Stern [11] found statistically significant relationships between but in various weight ratios.
rheological and sensory parameters of cosmetic emulsions,
2.2. Devices. A semi-plant mixer BECOMIX RW15 (A.
concerning both body lotions and face creams.
Berents, Stuhr, Germany) was applied for the preparation of
An important term in sensory analysis of cosmetics is
the samples. This mixer includes vacuum processing vessel
represented by skin feeling. Brummer and Godersky [12]
with homogenizer and jacket enabling heating or cooling. It
divide skin feeling—the sensations experienced during appli-
has a batch capacity of 12 litres, with a minimum capacity of
cation—into primary and secondary. The primary skin feel-
1-2 litres.
ing describes the sensations at the start of the application, and
Rheological measurements were carried out with a rota-
the secondary skin feeling describes the sensations at the end
tional rheometer RheoStress 300 (Thermo Scientific, Karl-
of application. The primary skin feeling correlates with the
sruhe, Germany). A cone-and-plate system with sensor C60/
shear stress at the onset of flow and the dynamic viscosity.
2∘ (cone diameter 60 mm, cone angle 2∘ ) was used. In contrast
The secondary skin feeling correlates with the value of the
to a plate-and-plate arrangement, the chosen cone-and-plate
stationary viscosity for the rate of shear prevailing at the end
arrangements respect non-Newtonian course of measured
of application to the skin.
characteristics and, hence, provide more responsible data. All
If we take into account the time and cost of sensory
measurements were carried out at 25∘ C.
analysis and volunteer’s subjectivity, it seems that potential
use of instrumental measurements correlating with sensory 2.3. Samples Preparation. During the emulsification, the mix-
properties is very perspective (Lukic et al. [4]). This approach ing intensity corresponded with level 3, and homogenization
could eliminate sensory analysis by responsible predictions proceeded 5 minutes at level 5 using the mixer Becomix
based on rheological measurements only if a nonsubstan- RW15 (levels 1 and 5 correspond to preset minimum and
tial part of ingredients contained in cosmetic lotions is maximum revolutions, resp.). The water phase was added into
changed. the oil phase, and to obtain higher degree of homogenization,
The study of influence of a concrete ingredient on both temperature was set to 75∘ C. To prevent evaporation, thermal
rheological and sensory properties is relatively rare. Lukic sensitive fragrance was added at a reduced temperature of
et al. [4] studied four water-in-oil creams varying in one 45∘ C. Total amount of one sample attained 10 kg; conse-
emollient component. The samples were submitted to rhe- quently, it was filled into 250 mL plastic (PE) bottles and
ological, sensory, and textural characterization. The results stored at room temperature.
indicated that certain alteration restricted to the oil phase
induced a change in all investigated characteristics. Obtained 2.4. Methodology. Both rheological and sensory approaches
correlation between physical measurements and certain sen- were applied for characterization of the samples. These two
sory attributes confirmed that textural analysis, as a fairly attitudes are not strictly separated but just, on the contrary,
Advances in Materials Science and Engineering 3

Table 1: Ingredients of the samples.

Content [wt.%]
Ingredients Ingredients (INCI name) Supplier
BL1 BL2 BL3
Emulsifiers Details in Table 2 5 5 5
Isopropyl myristate Isopropyl myristate OLEON Scandinavia N.V 6 6 6
Paraffin oil Paraffinum liquidum Hansen and Rosenthal 15 15 15
Glycerin Glycerin Neuber 3 3 3
Jojoba oil Buxus chinensis Gustav Hess 0.2 0.2 0.2
Coenzyme Q10 Ubiquinone EISAI, Co., Ltd. 0.025 0.025 0.025
Magnesium sulfate Magnesium sulfate Brenntag CR 0.7 0.7 0.7
Allantoin Allantoin Merck 0.1 0.1 0.1
D-panthenol Panthenol Roche vitamins 0.5 0.5 0.5
Nipasept Methyl, ethyl, propylparaben Jan Dekker 0.3 0.3 0.3
Neolone 950 Methylisothiazolinone Rohm and Haas 0.1 0.1 0.1
Fragrance Parfum Quest Int. 0.15 0.15 0.15
Citric acid Citric acid Brenntag CR 0.5 0.5 0.5
Water, distilled Aqua 68.425 68.425 68.425

Table 2: Emulsifiers contained in the samples.

Weight ratio
Component of emulsifier Component of emulsifier (INCI name) Supplier
BL1 BL2 BL3
Arlacel 989 PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil ICI Surfactants 3/5 2/5 1/5
Arlatone T PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate ICI Surfactants 1/5 1/5 1/5
Span 60 Sorbitan stearate Cognis 1/5 2/5 3/5

coupled. Sensory analysis is time and cost demanding; in except a category scale, a graphic unstructured one as
addition, there is a certain influence of volunteer’s subjectiv- well. For these four parameters, there were adjusted
ity. Inputs from the sensory analysis can be in some range counter-equivalent rheological qualities measured by
replaced by the rheological characterization, which repre- the rotational rheometer.
sents substantially cheaper and effective solution. To verify
Data processing of both rheological and sensory mea-
this approach, loosely said an acceptable substitution of sen-
surements, and their coupling is presented in Section 3.
sory analysis by the rheological one, for the problem studied
(emulsifier alteration) the following steps were carried out:
3. Results
(i) rheological measurement determining a relation
between shear stress and shear rate (the flow curve) 3.1. Rheological Measurement. The flow curves relating shear
in the range of shear rate 10−2 –600 s−1 . Shear rate stress 𝜏 and shear rate 𝛾̇ were determined. Shear rate con-
continually increased from the minimum to max- tinually increased from the minimum 10−2 s−1 to 600 s−1 and
imum (upcurve) and decreased back to minimum decreased back to minimum (downcurve). Data for all three
(downcurve). Typical shear rates for pouring from a body lotions are depicted in Figure 1. The arrows indicate a
bottle terminate at approximately 100 s−1 , where by direction of measurement.
coincidence typical shear rates for spreading of lotions It is apparent that relatively small change in the compo-
start; see, for example, Ward et al. [14]; sitions of BL1, BL2, and BL3 results in substantially different
(ii) sensory evaluation was carried out under standard behaviour of flow curves. The change in emulsifier compo-
conditions as specified by the ISO standards (ISO sition is reflected not only in a course of the upward curves
8589, ISO 8586.1, and ISO 6658). Seventeen trained but especially in their downward behaviour. This confirms a
panellists completed a special questionnaire concern- nonnegligible impact of the emulsifiers used on the overall
ing 11 parameters (including colour, shine, appearance manifestation of the individual products.
of the surface, feelings during rub-in, and frequency For characterization of flow curves in upward direction,
of the use of body lotion). Each parameter was rated the power-law model was used as follows:
on a category scale with predefined descriptive terms. 𝜏 = 𝑘 ⋅ 𝛾𝑛̇ , (1)
The four most important parameters (the ease of
pouring from the bottle, the ease of spreading on a where 𝑘 is the consistency parameter and 𝑛 is the flow
palm and on a back of hand, and thickness) involved, behaviour index. The values of these parameters for all three
4 Advances in Materials Science and Engineering

Table 3: Parameters of the power law model. 500

𝑛
𝑘 [Pa ⋅ s ] 𝑛 [−]
BL1 28.12 0.46
400
BL2 13.90 0.52
BL3 11.45 0.46

300

𝜏 (Pa)
500

↑
200

↓
400
↑

100
↓

300
𝜏 (Pa)

0
0 200 400 600
↑

200 𝛾̇ (s−1 )
↓

BL1 BL3
BL2 Power law model
100
Figure 2: Approximation of the flow curves (upward direction) of
BL1, BL2, and BL3 in the range of shear rates 10−2 –600 s−1 by the
power law model.
0
0 200 400 600
𝛾̇ (s−1 )
Considering ease of spreading (both places), the samples
BL1 BL3
sort BL1, BL2, and BL3 from bad to optimal. The same order
BL2
settles in the thickness category, BL1 being the most thick,
Figure 1: The flow curves of BL1, BL2, and BL3 in the range of shear BL2 the less, and BL3 the least. Reversely assessment of the
rate 10−2 –600 s−1 . pouring from the bottle gives similar values; only lotion BL1
slightly divides with more difficult pouring.

3.3. Basic Morphology. One of the main purposes of the

body lotions are summarized in Table 3, and the corre- emulsifier is to decrease the interfacial tension and thus help
spondence with the experimental data (upward direction) is to form the interface between the continuous oil phase and
presented in Figure 2. water droplets. This effect should eliminate the breakdown
processes in the emulsion. In the presented samples, there
3.2. Sensory Analysis. Table 4 documents the results from is a supposed homogeneity in coating of the interface by an
the sensory analysis involving all assessed parameters. These emulsifier as its amount attains 5 wt.%. This results in no
parameters were evaluated at a category scale. Each category breakup or tip-dropping of the droplets.
contained a descriptive term; a list of them is illustrated in The microstructure of the samples was observed by the
Table 4. Trained evaluators signed one or more category on a laboratory microscope DSML (Leica, Germany) integrated
scale. The descriptions, which were signed most often (for all with digital camera. Figure 3 illustrates basic morphology of
samples, if not specified) are in the last column of Table 4. the body lotion (figure widths attains 80 𝜇m). The received
Ease of spreading is evaluated at two places—on the palm droplet size is documented in Table 6. From here, it follows
and on the back of hand due to different body temperature. that the samples BL2 and BL3 are apparently more homoge-
This dual assessment of spreading was proved to be useful (see nous than the sample BL1.
Morávková and Stern [11]).
The four properties (pouring from the bottle: P, ease of 3.4. Correlation Relating Rheological and Sensory Measure-
spreading on a palm: SP, thickness: T, and ease of spreading ments. In the following, the linear relations between the
on back of hand: SH) range to the most important charac- sensory variables and rheological parameters obtained by
terization of the body lotions studied. Their more detailed applying the power law model are determined; see Figures 4
evaluation is presented in Table 5. The thickness, reflecting and 5. Figure 4 shows consecutively 5 linear approximations
in principle viscosity, was evaluated when a body lotion was of four selected sensory parameters (see Table 5) and droplet
applied to back of hand using a scale, thin, optimal, and too size (see Table 6) in dependence on the consistency parame-
thick. ter 𝑘 (see Table 3) for BL1, BL2, and BL3. Figure 5 analogously
Advances in Materials Science and Engineering 5

Table 4: Results of the sensory analysis.

Assessed property Descriptive terms The most frequent descriptions

Frequency of the use of BL Daily, very often, often, sometimes, rarely, never Often, sometimes
Pouring from the bottle Very easy, easy, difficult, very difficult Very easy, easy
Shine of the BL Very shiny, shiny, matt, uneven Very shiny, shiny
Surface of the BL Smooth, grainy, bubbles, separated oil/water, other inhomogeneity Smooth, bubbles
Ease of spreading on a palm Optimal, satisfactory, bad, very bad Optimal, satisfactory
Thickness Thin, optimal, too thick Optimal
Ease of spreading on a hand Optimal, satisfactory, bad, very bad Optimal, satisfactory
Feelings during rub-in Cooling, smooth, warm, rough, scratchy, burning, drying out Cooling, smooth, warm
Fragrance Extremely nice, very nice, nice, neutral, unpleasant, unsavory Very nice, nice
Absorption Very quick, good, difficult, very difficult Good, difficult (BL1)
Interest in using the BL Daily, very often, often, sometimes, rarely, never Sometimes, rarely, often

Figure 3: Microstructure of samples BL1, BL2, and BL3 (from left to right).

Table 5: Results of the sensory analysis, selected parameters (mean Table 7: Correlation coefficients among rheological and sensory
values, evaluated at scale 0–100). parameters.

P SP T SH 𝑘 𝑛 Droplet size
100 responds to
Very difficult Optimal Too much thick Optimal P: pouring the lotion from a 0.9981 −0.4731 0.9999
BL1 30 65.5 54.5 66.5 bottle
BL2 24.5 73.5 40.5 79 SP: ease of spreading on a hand 0.8822 0.0592 0.8581
BL3 24 85 36.5 86 T: thickness 0.9970 −0.3474 0.9921
SH: ease of spreading on a back 0.9746 −0.2045 0.9625
of hand
Table 6: Measured droplet size.
Droplet size 0.9988 −0.4621 —
Droplet size mean value (𝜇m) Standard deviation (𝜇m) Statistically significant relations are bold.
BL1 7.12 3.79
BL2 5.53 1.66
BL3 5.36 3.27 (ease of pouring the lotion from a bottle) can be evaluated
using the microscope analysis (medium droplet size).

4. Conclusions
presents 5 linear approximations in dependence on the flow
behaviour index 𝑛. The individual correlation coefficients are Three cosmetic lotions, water-in-oil type body lotions, were
summarized in Table 7. From here, it is apparent that the prepared with different composition of the emulsifier. The
tightest relations are for the following couples: droplet size, other ingredients were identical. All samples were character-
pouring from the bottle; consistency parameter 𝑘, pouring ized by rheological analysis and sensory profiling. Rheologi-
from the bottle; 𝑘, thickness; and 𝑘, droplet size. cal analysis proved that a small change in emulsifier composi-
As already mentioned above, sensory analysis is time and tion reflects on the behaviour of the lotion; it is illustrated by
money consuming, and it is also influenced by volunteer’s the differences in the measured flow curves. To characterize
subjectivity. The above analysis enables eliminating evalua- the flow properties of the samples, the power law model was
tion of the ease of pouring of a bottle and thickness as these applied. The consistency parameter 𝑘 and the flow behaviour
properties can be estimated directly from the rheological index 𝑛 were determined. A special questionnaire arranged
measurements through the parameter 𝑘. The parameter P for the sensory analysis comprised 11 characteristics. Four
6 Advances in Materials Science and Engineering

60
50
T = 1.05∗k + 25.2
Correlation coeff. = 0.9970 50
Droplet size (𝜇m); SH, P, SP, T (—)

Droplet size (𝜇m); SH, P, SP, T (—)

T = −97.1∗n + 90.5
40 Correlation coeff. = −0.3474
SP = 0.96∗k + 8.2 40
Correlation coeff. = 0.8822

30
P = −46.6∗n + 48.6 SP = 17.1∗n + 17.1
P = 0.37∗k + 19.6 30 Correlation coeff. = −0.4731 Correlation coeff. = 0.0592
Correlation coeff. = 0.9981

20
SH = 1.07∗k + 3.77
Correlation coeff. = 0.9746
20 SH = −59.7∗n + 51.6
Correlation coeff. = −0.2045
Droplet size = 0.11∗k + 4.08
10 Correlation coeff. = 0.9988
10 Droplet size = −13.3∗n + 12.4
Correlation coeff. = −0.4621

12 16 20 24 28
0.46 0.48 0.5 0.52
k (Pa·sn )
n (—)
T SH
T SH
SP Droplet size
P Droplet size
P
SP
Figure 4: Relationship between sensory parameters (and droplet
Figure 5: Relationship between sensory parameters (and droplet
size) and consistency parameter 𝑘.
size) and flow behaviour index 𝑛.

of them, important for consequent coupling with sensory a rheological approach to this topic. This approach provides
variables, were assessed on a graphic unstructured scale (ease a very useful means for characterizing textural and sensory
of pouring from the bottle, ease of spreading on a palm, properties as recently documented, for example, by Lukic
thickness, and ease of spreading on back of hand). The results et al. [15].
of sensory analysis confirmed a different manifestation of the
samples. These differences were verified also by observing the
microstructure of the lotions, specified by the mean droplet Acknowledgment
size. The authors wish to acknowledge the Grant Agency CR for
To detect the relations between rheological parameters the financial support of Grant Project no. 103/09/2066.
obtained by the power law model and sensory variables from
the analysis, the linear approximation was carried out. The
correlation coefficients describe the relevance of the relations. References
Tight relations were found for the following couples: droplet
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