POCKET ROUGH GUIDE

ROME
• ROME’S BEST RESTAURANTS, BARS, SHOPS AND HOTELS
 Pocket Rough Guide

ROME

written and researched by

MARTIN DUNFORD AND NATASHA FOGES

 Contents
INTRODUCTION 4
Rome at a glance ....................... 7 Itineraries ................................. 8

Museums and galleries ............ 14 Churches ................................. 24

Viewpoints .............................. 16 Ancient Rome .......................... 26
Eating Out ............................... 18 Baroque .................................. 28
Shopping ................................. 20 Outdoor Rome .......................... 30
Palaces ................................... 22

PLAC
PL ACES
ES 32
1 The centro storico .............. 34 7 The Celian Hill and
2 Campo de’ Fiori, the Ghetto San Giovanni .....................104
and around ........................ 50 8 The Aventine Hill and
3 Piazza Venezia and the south ...............................110
Capitoline Hill .................... 60 9 Trastevere and the
4 Ancient Rome .................... 66 Janiculum Hill ..................122
5 The Tridente, Trevi and 10 The Villa Borghese and
Quirinale ........................... 74 north ................................132
6 The Esquiline, Monti and 11 The Vatican City ................140
Termini .............................. 90 12 Day-trips ..........................154

ACCOMMODATION
A 162

ESSENTIALS 172
Arrival ....................................174 Chronology .............................184
Getting around ........................175 Italian ....................................187
Directory A-Z ..........................179 Index......................................196
Festivals and events................182

<< DOME OF S A NTA M A RI A DI LORE TO

< VIE W OVER ST PETERS SQUARE
3
 INTRODUCTION TO

ROME
INTRODUCTION TO ROME

Rome is the most fascinating city in Italy – you

could spend a month here and still only scratch the
surface. Yet it is so much more than an open-air
museum: it has constantly reinvented itself over
the years, and its people, culture and food together
make it a modern and vibrant city that would be
worthy of a visit irrespective of its incredible history.
As a historic place, it is special enough, but as a
contemporary European capital, it is utterly unique.

T R E V I FO U N TA I N

4
 INTRODUCTION TO ROME
Best places for the perfect Roman pizza
here are loads of great pizzerias in Rome that serve up traditional thin,

T crispy pizzas with the usual accompaniments of baccalà and fiori di

zucca. Most are open evenings only; if you want a lunchtime slice of
pizza – pizza al taglio – try Lo Zozzone (see p.46) or Il Forno (see p.57). THESE
ARE OUR OTHER FAVOURITES > Da Francesco p.47 > La Montecarlo p.48 > Ai
Marmi p.130 > Da Remo p.120

Rome’s eras crowd in on on a few key attractions

top of one another to a (check out our ideas in “Best
remarkable degree: there of…”) and see where your feet
are medieval churches atop take you. Above all, don’t be
ancient basilicas and palaces, afraid to just wander.
houses and apartment blocks You’d certainly be mad to
that incorporate fragments risk your blood pressure in
of Roman columns and any kind of vehicle, and the
inscriptions, and roads and best way of getting around
piazzas that follow the lines the city centre is to walk. The
of ancient amphitheatres and same goes for the ancient
stadiums. It’s not an easy sites, and probably the Vatican
place to absorb on one visit, and Trastevere quarter too
and you need to take things – although for these last two
slowly, even if you only have you might want to jump on a
a couple of days here. Most of bus or a tram going across the
the sights can be approached river. Keep public transport
from a number of directions, for longer hops – down to
and part of the allure of Rome Testaccio, Ostiense or EUR, or
is stumbling across things by to the catacombs and the Via
accident, gradually piecing Appia Antica, and of course
the city together, rather for trips outside the city: to
than marching around to a Ostia Antica, Tivoli or nearby
timetable. It’s best to decide beaches.

5
 A L F R E S C O E AT I N G B Y T H E PA N T H E O N
INTRODUCTION TO ROME

However you get around, be consumed by chainstores

the atmosphere is like no and multinational hotels.
other city – a monumental, Above all, there has perhaps
busy capital and yet an never been a better time to
appealingly relaxed one, visit. Rome has recently been
with a centre that has yet to hauled into the twenty-first
century: museums, churches
When to visit and other buildings that had
been “in restoration” as long
ou can enjoy Rome at any time

Y
as anyone can remember
of year. However, you should, if have reopened, and some of
you can, avoid coming in July the city’s historic collections
and especially August, when it can have been re-housed. Plus,
be uncomfortably hot and most the city’s cultural life has
Romans are on holiday – indeed been enhanced, with frequent
open-air concerts and a
in August you may find many of flourishing film festival in
the restaurants recommended October. Transport, too,
in this book closed. May, June is being tackled, with the
and September are the most construction of a third metro
comfortable months weather-wise line, although it may be some
– warm but not unbearably so, and time before this is finished.
not too humid. April and October Whether all this will
can be nice too – the city is less irrevocably alter the character
crowded, outside Easter, and days of the city remains to be
seen – the enhanced crowds
can still be warm and sunny. The of visitors, spurred on by
winter months can be a good time the growth of cheap flights
to visit, but bear in mind that the in recent years, are certainly
weather is unpredictable and while having a go. But it’s a resilient
you’ll find everything pleasantly place, with a character like
uncrowded, a lot of attractions will no other, and for now at least
have reduced opening hours. there’s definitely no place like
Rome.
6
ROME AT A GLANCE
>>EATING >>SHOPPING

ROME AT A GLANCE
Food is one of the highlights Fashion straight from the
of any trip to Rome. You won’t catwalk is well represented on
really eat badly anywhere: the streets close to the Spanish
there are lots of good choices Steps – Via Condotti, Via
in the centro storico; the Frattina and Via del Babuino
Ghetto and Testaccio have a – where you’ll find the flagship
large number of places serving stores of Prada, Valentino and
traditional Roman food, while the like. Via del Corso caters
the densest concentration of to young fashion and cheap
restaurants of all kinds can be clothing. There are lots of
found in Trastevere. There’s small, independent boutiques
also an abundance of good, around the Campo de' Fiori
honest pizzerias, churning and in Monti, and antique
out thin, crispy pizza from shops line Via dei Coronari
wood-fired ovens. Be wary of and the streets around. Food is
restaurants adjacent to some freshest and best in the markets
major monuments. Note that on Campo de’ Fiori and
many places are closed during Testaccio. The Porta Portese
August. flea market every Sunday
morning is a quintessentially
>>DRINKING Roman experience.
Many Roman bars are  
traditionally daytime haunts, >>NIGHTLIFE
but nowadays there are also
plenty of bars and pubs There’s a concentration of clubs
conducive to an evening’s in Ostiense and Testaccio
drinking, and the city’s (especially lively in summer),
old-fashioned wine bars or while Trastevere, and the
enoteche have also become centro storico from the Jewish
more popular in recent years. Ghetto to the Pantheon, are
The Milanese tradition of good for bars, with the odd
aperitivi has taken off in bars backstreet club. The San
throughout the city; many Lorenzo area near Termini has
places put on a free buffet plenty of laid-back, studenty
at around 6–7pm to attract hangouts, often with live
pre-dinner drinkers. Wherever music. More alternative places
you are, you can drink late – are run as private clubs –
most places are open until at usually known as centri sociali,
least 1am – but Campo de’ a device that means you may
Fiori and the centro storico be stung for a membership fee,
near Piazza Navona, and the but entry will be free. Festivals
nightlife districts of Trastevere take place throughout the
and Testaccio, are the liveliest summer featuring concerts of
areas in the city centre.   every sort, many of them free.

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS FOR WHERE TO EAT, DRINK AND

SHOP ARE LISTED AT THE END OF EACH PLACES CHAPTER
7
 Day One in Rome
1 Capitoline Hill > p.42. Rome
ITINERARIES

began here, and the two museums that

flank the elegant square are among
the city’s key sights.
2 Roman Forum > p.70. Some of
the most ruined ruins you’ll see, but
also the most atmospheric.
3 Colosseum > p.68. The most
recognizable and perhaps the greatest
ancient Roman monument of them all.

  Lunch > p.109. Enjoying the

good, traditional Roman food
at Luzzi, it’s hard to believe you’re just
five minutes from the Colosseum. 5

4 Fontana di Trevi > p.81. No trip to

the city could be complete without a
visit to this fountain.
5 Piazza di Spagna > p.74. The
Spanish Steps, Keats-Shelley House
and the square itself are among the
city’s most compelling attractions.
6 Ara Pacis > p.80. Enclosed in an
impressive purpose-built structure,
this amazing frieze displays the
imperial family during the time of
Augustus.
7 Galleria Borghese > p.133. The
Bernini sculptures here are the pure
essence of Rome (be sure to book in
advance).

  Dinner > p.129. A meal in

lively Trastevere is a must –
and you can’t go wrong with a slap-up
dinner at La Gensola.

  IceCrispino
cream > p.86. San
serves arguably the
city’s best ice cream.

8
Day Two in Rome
1 St Peter’s > p.144. It would be a

ITINERARIES
pity to leave Rome without seeing the
city’s greatest Baroque attraction.

  Coffee > p.152. Gran

Caffe Borgo is the best
place for coffee and a pastry within
easy reach of the Vatican.

2 Vatican Museums > p.146. So

much more than the Sistine Chapel –
this staggering complex of museums
is not to be missed.

  Lunch > p.153. Dal Toscano,

a long-established Tuscan
restaurant close by the Vatican
walls, is a good place to recover from 1
museum fatigue.

3 Piazza Navona > p.40. One of the

centro storico’s loveliest open spaces,
and close to the church of San Luigi
dei Francesi and Palazzo Altemps.
4 The Pantheon > p.38. Rome’s
most intact ancient sight, and near
one of the city’s great churches, Santa
Maria sopra Minerva.
5 The Ghetto > p.55. Stroll through
the crumbling old Jewish quarter, an
ancient part of the city centre.

  Dinner > p.58. Piperno

is the best of the
Ghetto’s restaurants, with fantastic 2
Roman-Jewish cooking served in
lovely surroundings.

 IcePicacream > p.57. Alberto

is one of the longest
running and best of Rome’s many
gelaterie.

9
 Budget Rome
Rome’s piazzas, fountains and other public structures are
a fantastic free spectacle, and many of its churches are
ITINERARIES

packed with sumptuous art. Here are some suggestions for

how to spend a great day in Rome without spending a penny
on anything, apart from food and drink.

1 Vittoriano > p.61. Free 3

to clamber up the steps and
enjoy the views – though
you pay for the lifts to the
very top.
2 Fontana di Trevi > p.81.
The only cost is the coins you
decide to chuck in.
3 Spanish Steps > p.75. All
you need is energy to climb to
the top and enjoy the views.

  Lunch > p.57. Il

Forno on Campo de’
Fiori is renowned for its pizza
by the slice.

4 Palazzo Farnese > p.54.

Viewings of the fantastic
Carracci ceiling are free, if you
can time it right and book in
advance.
5 St Peter’s > p.144. There’s no 6 Vatican Museums > p.146.
entry fee for this or any other Roman Free on the last Sunday of the
church. month – perhaps the world’s greatest
sightseeing bargain.

  Dinner > p.153. Not

much to choose from
but it’s hard to get good, basic
Roman food much more cheaply
than at Cacio e Pepe.

  IceOld cream > p.153

Bridge serves huge
portions of delicious ice cream.

10
Secret Rome
You could spend several days seeing Rome’s most obvious
sights, and you’d have a wonderful time – mostly with lots of

ITINERARIES
other people. Here are some suggestions for having a great day
out in the city, while avoiding the crowds.

1 Largo di Torre Argentina > 2 Rooms of St Ignatius > p.51.

p.50. The temple ruins of the square Take in the small museum next
are rarely open but animal lovers door to the Gesù; it incorporates the
can visit the rooms and shop of the rooms where St Ignatius stayed and
volunteers who look after a large cat a fantastic trompe l’oeil painting by
colony here. Andrea Pozzo.
1 3 Galleria Colonna > p.81.
Only open on a Saturday
morning, and partly because
of this an undiscovered
treasure among the city’s
great family palace-galleries.

  Lunch > p.87.

Tucked away around
the corner from the Trevi
Fountain, Colline Emiliane
does delicious Emilian food.

4 Casa di Chirico > p.75.

Don’t miss this “house”
museum, left just as it was
when the artist lived and
worked here.

5 Santi Quattro Coronati > p.105. 5

The frescoes in the chapel of St Sylvester
here are really something special.
6 Museo Storico della Liberazione
> p.108. Housed in the wartime
headquarters of the Gestapo, this is one
of Rome’s most moving museums.

  Dinner > p.109. Close by San

Giovanni, Charley’s Sauciere is
a long-established French food outpost
that is little known by tourists.

11
 Museums
and galleries
BEST OF ROME

Vatican Museums Home to the largest, richest, most diverse and most
dazzling collections in the world. > p.146
14
2 Capitoline Museums Two
amazing galleries – one displaying
Roman sculpture, the other Roman
sculpture and Italian art. > p.62

BEST OF ROME
3 Galleria Borghese Fabulous Bernini
sculpture and one of Rome’s best picture
galleries, housed in the Borghese family
villa. > p.133
4 Museo Nazionale
Romano You’ll find the
finest art collection in
this museum’s two main
locations: Palazzo Altemps
and Palazzo Massimo. >
p.44 & p.97
5 Galleria Doria
Pamphilj Private art
collection that's intimately
exhibited. > p.34

15
 Viewpoints
BEST OF ROME

St Peter’s It’s worth the climb up the dome to see this classic panorama.
> p.144
16
2 Il Vittoriano Many people’s
favourite view of Rome, because you
can’t see the Vittoriano monument
itself. > p.61

BEST OF ROME
3 Janiculum Hill Of all Rome’s
hills, this one, to the west of the city
centre, gives the fullest panorama of
Rome. > p.127

4 Spanish Steps Tourist Central,

but ignore the crowds – the whole of
Rome’s centre is spread out before
you. > p.75

5 Aventine Hill The best views

of the Vatican are from the top of
Aventine Hill on the other side of the
river. > p.110
17
 18
BEST OF ROME
BEST OF ROME

19
 Shopping
BEST OF ROME

Campo de’ Fiori This long-standing fruit and veg market takes place
every morning; in the surrounding streets you’ll find countless independent
boutiques. > p.52
20
2 Via del Corso This narrow street,
lined with all the mid-range chains,
is jam-packed with shoppers at
weekends. > p.34
3 Via Condotti Lined with

BEST OF ROME
eye-wateringly expensive boutiques,
this is the main spine of Rome’s
designer shopping quarter. > p.74

4 Via dei Coronari Rome’s

antiques alley, lined with shops selling
everything from Renaissance chests to
1960s Italian coffeepots. > p.43

5 Super, Via Leoni Pore over

beautiful retro and vintage clothes,
gadgets, furniture and beauty
products. > p.99

21
 Palaces
BEST OF ROME

Palazzo Farnese Perhaps the city’s most elegant palace, now the French
embassy, whose Carracci murals are one of the city’s must-sees. > p.54
22
2 Villa Farnesina This Trastevere
mansion was home to the banker
Agostino Chigi, who employed Raphael
to do the decorating. > p.126

BEST OF ROME
3 Palazzo Spada The home of one
Cardinal Spada is perhaps best known
for its ingenious Borromini trompe
l’oeil tunnel. > p.53
4 Palazzo Barberini The Barberini
family’s palace is one of the most
sumptuous in Rome, and it also
houses remarkable collections of art.
> p.83

5 Palazzo del Quirinale The

residence of the Italian president,
today open once a week. > p.84
23
 Churches
BEST OF ROME

1 Santa Maria Maggiore One of the great Roman basilicas, and a treasure
trove of art and history. > p.91
24
 3 Santa Prassede The chapel of St
Zeno here has amazing ninth-century
mosaics, which reflect the daylight
beautifully. > p.94

BEST OF ROME
2 Santa Maria sopra Minerva The
city’s only Gothic church, although it’s
a treasure-house of Renaissance art
too. > p.35

5 San Clemente This ancient Roman

church is the best place to appreciate
the city’s multi layered history. > p.106

4 San Pietro in Vincoli A

beautifully plain church, home to one
of Michelangelo’s greatest sculptures.
> p.94
25
 Ancient Rome
BEST OF ROME

1 Colosseum The most photographed of Rome’s monuments – it has

provided the blueprint for virtually all sports stadiums since. > p.68
26
 2 The Pantheon An amazing
building even in its time, but all
the more incredible now, given how
completely it has survived. > p.38

BEST OF ROME
3 Trajan's Markets Quite
simply, an ancient Roman shopping
mall, fantastically preserved and
newly excavated. > p.67
4 Ostia Antica The
ruins of Rome’s ancient
port are some of the most
atmospheric you will find
anywhere. > p.160
5 Ara Pacis The
gleaming marble walls
were sculpted in 13 BC to
celebrate the subjugation
of Spain and Gaul. > p.80

27
 Baroque
BEST OF ROME

1 Palazzo Barberini Check out Pietro da Cortona’s ceiling, gushingly

appropriate for the main patrons of the Baroque movement. > p.83
28
 2 Santa Maria della
Vittoria The daring statue of
the Ecstasy of St Theresa by
Bernini is perhaps the city’s
most dramatic piece of Baroque

BEST OF ROME
art. > p.84

3 San Carlo alle Quattro

Fontane With four lovely
fountains outside, this church
is a masterpiece in Baroque
design. > p.83
4 The Gesù As the centre
of the Jesuit movement, this
church set the benchmark
for all Baroque churches to
come. > p.50

Piazza San Pietro

Bernini’s colonnaded piazza is
pure, theatrical Baroque – as
is the church itself. > p.141

29
BEST OF ROME

1 Villa Borghese Rome’s largest and most central open space, and by any
standards a beautiful and diverse city park. > p.132
30
BEST OF ROME

31
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 The centro storico
The heart of Rome is the centro storico (“historic centre”),
which makes up most of the triangular knob of land that bulges
CENTRO STORICO

into a bend in the Tiber. This area, known in ancient Roman

times as the Campus Martius, was outside the ancient city
centre and mostly given over to barracks and sporting arenas,
together with several temples, including the Pantheon. Later
it became the heart of the Renaissance city, and nowadays
it’s the part of the town that is densest in interest, a knot of
narrow streets and alleys that hold some of the best of Rome’s
churches and monuments and its most vivacious street- and
nightlife. Whichever direction you wander in there’s something
to see; indeed its appeal is that even the most aimless ambling
leads you past some memorably beautiful and historic spots.
VIA DEL CORSO still own the building and
live in part of it. They were
MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP F13–15 also prodigious collectors of
Running north–south from art, and, inside, the Galleria
Piazza del Popolo to Piazza Doria Pamphilj constitutes
Venezia, Via del Corso divides one of Rome’s best late
the city centre in two: the Renaissance art collections,
western side gives onto the its paintings mounted in the
dense streets of the centro style of the time, crammed in
storico and to the east, the swish floor-to-ceiling, around the
shopping streets that converge palace’s main courtyard. There
on Piazza di Spagna. Named are many highlights: a rare
after the races that used to Italian work by Bruegel the
take place along here during Elder, a highly realistic portrait
Renaissance times, it is also of an old man, the fabulously
Rome’s main shopping street – ugly Moneylenders and their
the stretch beyond Via Condotti, Clients by Quentin Matsys, and
right up as far as Piazza del a Hans Memling Deposition,
Popolo, is pedestrianized as well as several paintings by
each evening and hosts a busy Caravaggio – the magnificent
passeggiata during summer. Rest on the Flight into Egypt,
John the Baptist and Repentant
GALLERIA DORIA PAMPHILJ
Magdalene – in the series of
Via del Corso 305. Daily 10am–5pm; rooms on the right, alongside
€9, including audio guide in English; Salome with the head of St John,
T 06.679.7323, W www.doriapamphilj.it. MAP by Titian. Across the courtyard
P.36–37, POCKET MAP F15 look out also for the gallery’s
The Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is most famous works: a badly
among the city’s finest Rococo cracked bust of Innocent X by
palaces; the Doria-Pamphilj Bernini, which the sculptor
family have long been one of apparently replaced in a week
Rome’s most illustrious, and with the more famous version
34
G A L L E R I A D O R I A PA M P H I L J

CENTRO STORICO
down the hall, next door to SANTA MARIA SOPRA MINERVA
Velázquez’s famous painting of Mon–Sat 7am–7pm, Sun 8am–7pm. MAP
the same man. Beyond here P.36–37, POCKET MAP E15
are a small shop and a series of Piazza della Minerva is
private apartments, furnished in home to the medieval
the style of the original palace church of Santa Maria sopra
and with more paintings. All in Minerva, Rome’s only Gothic
all, it’s a marvellous collection church, and one of the city’s
of work, displayed in a art-treasure churches, with
wonderfully appropriate setting. the Carafa chapel, in the
south transept, home to
SANT’IGNAZIO Filippino Lippi’s fresco of the
Daily 7.30am–12.30pm & 3–7.15pm. MAP Assumption. The children
P.36–37, POCKET MAP F15 visible in the foreground here
The Jesuit church of are portraits of the future
Sant’Ignazio was dedicated Medici popes, Leo X and
to the founder of the Society Clement VII – both of whose
of Jesus after his death and tombs lie either side of the
canonization. It’s worth main altar. Look also at the
visiting for its marvellous figure of Christ Bearing the
Baroque ceiling by Andrea Cross, just in front, a serene
Pozzo, showing St Ignatius work that Michelangelo
being welcomed into paradise completed for the church in
by Christ and the Virgin, a 1521. Outside, the diminutive
spectacular work that creates Elephant Statue is Bernini’s
the illusion of looking at the most endearing piece of work:
sky through open colonnades. a cheery elephant trumpeting
Pozzo also painted the ingenious under the weight of the obelisk
false dome in the crossing (a he carries on his back – a
real dome was planned but was reference to Pope Alexander
deemed too expensive). Stand VII and supposed to illustrate
on the disc in the centre of the the fact that strength should
nave to get the full effect of this support wisdom.
trompe l’oeil masterpiece.

35
 centro storico
RESTAURANTS CAFÉS & SNACKS BARS
Armando al Pantheon 15 La Caffetteria 9 Bloom 22
Il Bacaro 5 Camilloni 21 Etabli 10
Da Baffetto 24 Cremeria Monteforte 20 Fluid 25
CENTRO STORICO

Casa Bleve 29 Giolitti 6 Il Goccetto 27

Cul de Sac 26 Pascucci 31 Jonathan’s Angels 18
Enoteca Corsi 30 Caffè Sant’Eustachio 23 Bar della Pace 13
La Focaccia 12 La Tazza d’Oro 14 Société Lutèce 11
Da Franceso 16 Vitti 1
Gino 3 Lo Zozzone 19
Maccheroni 7

PON ERTO
UM
CASTELLO

B
LUNGOTEVERE

TE I
La Montecarlo 28
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Trattoria 8 PONTE SANT’ANGELO

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PIAZZA
Santa Chiara 10 Ai Monasteri 4 TRILUSSA
St George 9 Moriondo & Gariglio 8 0 metres 100
Teatro Pace 33 8 Pellicano 5
Zanardelli 3 De Sanctis 3 0 yards 100

36
 PIAZZA I
VIA VITTORIA COLO
NNA
PIAZZA
AUGUSTO OTT
OND

O
PONTE CAVOUR PORTA

LEONCIN
IMPERATORE C
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37
 THE PANTHEON It would have been richly
Mon–Sat 8.30am–7.30pm, Sun 9am–6pm; decorated, the coffered ceiling
free. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP E15 heavily stuccoed and the niches
One of the centro storico’s filled with the statues of gods.
busiest sights, the Pantheon Now, apart from the sheer size
CENTRO STORICO

is the most complete ancient of the place, the main object of

Roman structure in the city, interest is the tomb of Raphael,
and along with the Colosseum, between the second and third
visually the most impressive. chapel on the left, with an
Though originally a temple inscription by the humanist
that formed part of Marcus cardinal Pietro Bembo: “Living,
Agrippa’s redesign of the great Nature feared he might
Campus Martius in around outvie Her works, and dying,
27 BC – hence the inscription fears herself may die.” The same
– the building was rebuilt by kind of sentiments might well
the emperor Hadrian and have been reserved for the
finished around the year 125 Pantheon itself.
AD. Since consecrated as
SAN LUIGI DEI FRANCESI
a church, it’s a formidable
architectural achievement Daily except Thurs pm 8.30am–12.30pm &
even now, and inside you get 3.30–7pm. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP E14
the best impression of the The French national church of
engineering expertise of the San Luigi dei Francesi is worth
time: the diameter is precisely a visit, mainly for the works by
equal to its height (43m), the Caravaggio it numbers amongst
hole in the centre of the dome its collection. In the last chapel
– from which shafts of sunlight on the left are three paintings:
descend to illuminate the musty The Calling of St Matthew,
interior – a full 9m across. in which Christ points to
Most impressively, there are no Matthew, who is illuminated by
visible arches or vaults to hold a shaft of sunlight; St Matthew
the whole thing up; instead and the Angel, showing the visit
they’re sunk into the concrete of an angel as the apostle writes
of the walls of the building. his Gospel; and The Martyrdom
SAN LUIGI DEI FRANCESI

38
of St Matthew. Caravaggio’s
first public commission, these
paintings were actually rejected
at first, partly on grounds
of indecorum, and it took
considerable reworking by the

CENTRO STORICO
artist before they were finally
accepted. These days they are
considered to be among the
artist’s greatest ever works,
especially The Calling of St
Matthew, which manifests the
simple, taut drama, as well as
the low-life subject matter, for
which Caravaggio became so
well known.

SANT’AGOSTINO

SANT’IVO ALLA SAPIENZA

Daily 7.45am–noon & 4–7.30pm. MAP P.36–37,
POCKET MAP D14
The Renaissance facade of
the church of Sant’Agostino
is not much to look at from
the outside, but a handful of
art treasures might draw you
SANT’IVO ALLA SAPIENZA
in – this was the church of
Rome’s creative community Sun 9am–noon. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP E15
in the sixteenth century and Between the Pantheon and
as such drew wealthy patrons Piazza Navona, the Palazzo della
and well-connected artists. Sapienza cradles the church
Just inside the door, the serene of Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza –
statue of the Madonna del Parto, from the outside at least, one
by Sansovino is traditionally of Rome’s most impressive
invoked during pregnancy, and churches, with a playful facade
is accordingly surrounded by designed by Carlo Borromini.
photos of newborn babes and Each of the two small towers
their blissful parents. Further is topped with the weird,
into the church, Raphael’s blancmange-like groupings that
vibrant fresco of Isaiah is on the are the symbol of the Chigi
third pillar on the left, beneath family and the central cupola
which is another work by spirals helter-skelter fashion to
Sansovino – a craggy St Anne, its zenith, crowned with flames
Virgin and Child. But the biggest that are supposed to represent
crowds gather around the first the sting of the Barberini bee,
chapel on the left, where the their family symbol. Inside,
Madonna di Loreto, painted too, it’s very cleverly designed,
in 1605 by Caravaggio, is a impressively light and spacious
characteristic work of what was given the small space the church
at the time almost revolutionary is squeezed into, rising to the tall
realism, scruffy clothes parabolic cupola.
contrasting with the pale,
delicate feet and skin of Mary.

39
 P I A Z Z A N AV O N A
PIAZZA DI MONTECITORIO AND
PIAZZA COLONNA
MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP E14–15
On the northern edge of
the centro storico, Piazza
CENTRO STORICO

Montecitorio takes its name

from the bulky Palazzo di
Montecitorio on its northern
side, home since 1871 to the
lower house of the Italian
parliament (open first Sun of
each month 10am–6pm; free).
Just beyond, Piazza Colonna,
flanked on its north side by the
late sixteenth-century Palazzo
Chigi, official residence of
the prime minister, hosts the
Column of Marcus Aurelius, by Pope Innocent X, who
erected between 180 and 190 built most of the grandiose
AD to commemorate military palaces that surround it and
victories in northern Europe, commissioned Borromini
and – like the column of Trajan to redesign the church of
which inspired it – decorated Sant’Agnese in Agone (daily
with reliefs depicting scenes 9.30am–12.30pm & 4–7pm)
from the campaigns. on the piazza’s western side.
One of three fountains that
PIAZZA NAVONA punctuate Piazza Navona, the
MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP D14–15 Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi
The western half of the centro is a masterpiece by Bernini,
storico focuses on Piazza built in 1651. Each figure
Navona, Rome’s most famous represents one of what were
square. Lined with cafés and considered at the time to be
restaurants and often thronged the four great rivers of the
with tourists, street artists and world – the Nile, Danube,
pigeons, the best time to come Ganges and Plate – though
is at night, when the flavour of only the horse, symbolizing the
the place is at its most vibrant, Danube, was actually carved by
with crowds hanging out Bernini himself. The fountain
around the fountains watching is topped with an Egyptian
the buskers and street artists obelisk, brought here by Pope
or enjoying the scene while Innocent X from the Circus of
nursing a pricey drink at a Maxentius.
table outside one of the bars.
The square takes its shape from
PIAZZA PASQUINO
the first-century AD Stadium MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP D15
of Domitian, the principal Just off Piazza Navona, it’s easy
venue of the athletic events and to miss the battered marble
later chariot races that took torso of Pasquino, in the
place in the Campus Martius, corner of the small triangular
and until the mid-fifteenth space of Piazza Pasquino. This
century the ruins of the arena is perhaps the best known
were still here, overgrown and of Rome’s “talking statues”
disused. It was given a facelift of the Middle Ages and the
in the mid-seventeenth century Renaissance, upon which
40
anonymous comments on the hermaphrodite. The two
affairs of the day would be charming busts of young
attached. These comments had Roman boys date from the first
a serious as well as a humorous century AD.
intent, and gave us the word

CENTRO STORICO
“pasquinade”, and the statue SANT’ANDREA DELLA VALLE
is still normally covered with Mon–Sat 7.30am–noon & 4.30–7.30pm, Sun
rants, poems and pontifications 7.30am–12.45pm & 4.30–7.45pm. MAP P.36–37,
of all kinds. POCKET MAP E16
This church has the distinction
MUSEO DI ROMA of sporting the city’s
Piazza San Pantaleo 10. Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; second-tallest dome (after St
€6.50; T 060608, W www.museodiroma.it. Peter’s) built by Carlo Maderno,
MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP D15 and of being the setting for the
The eighteenth-century Palazzo first scene of Puccini’s Tosca.
Braschi is the home of the Inside, it’s one of the most
Museo di Roma, which has a Baroque of Rome’s churches
permanent collection relating and your attention is drawn not
to the history of the city from only to the dome, decorated
the Middle Ages to the present with paintings of the Glory of
day. It’s a large museum, and Paradise by Giovanni Lanfranco,
to be honest only sporadically but also to a marvellous set
interesting; the building is of frescoes in the apse by his
probably the main event, contemporary, Domenichino,
particularly the magnificent illustrating the life of St Andrew.
Sala Nobile where you go in, In a side chapel on the right, you
the main staircase and one or may, if you’ve been in Rome a
two of the renovated rooms. while, recognize some copies of
But some of the paintings are not only Michelangelo’s Pietà
absorbing, showing the city (the original is in St Peter’s), but
during different eras. Frescoes also of his figures of Leah and
from demolished palaces are Rachel, from the tomb of his
also highlights. patron, Julius II, in the church of
San Pietro in Vincoli (see p.94).
MUSEO BARRACCO
S A N T ’A N D R E A D E L L A VA L L E

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166. Tues–Sun

9am–7pm. €3. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP D15
The so-called Piccola Farnesina
palace, built by Antonio
Sangallo the Younger, holds
the Museo Barracco, a small
but high-quality collection
of ancient sculpture that was
donated to the city at the turn
of the century by one Baron
Barracco. It contains ancient
Egyptian and Hellenistic pieces,
ceramics and statuary from the
Greek classical period and later
Roman items, most notably
a small figure of Neptune
from the first century BC and
an odd column-sculpture of
a very graphically depicted
41
 PALAZZO DELLA CANCELLERIA
quarters, the narrow streets
MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP D15 noisy at night and holding
The grand Palazzo della some of the city’s most
Cancelleria was the seat of the vigorous restaurants and bars.
papal government that once A little way down on the left,
CENTRO STORICO

ran the city. The Renaissance the delightfully small Piazza

architect Bramante is thought del Orologio is named after
to have had a hand in its design the quaint clocktower that is
and it is a well-proportioned its main feature – part of the
edifice, exuding a cool poise Oratorio dei Filipini, designed
quite at odds with the rather by Borromini, which is part
grimy nature of its location. of the Chiesa Nuova complex
You can’t get in to see the (see below). The followers of St
interior, but you can stroll into Philip Neri attended musical
the marvellously proportioned, gatherings here as part of their
multi-tiered courtyard, which is worship, gifting the language
a treat enough in itself, although forever with the musical term
San Lorenzo in Damaso (daily “oratorio”.
7.30am–12.30pm & 4.30–8pm),
one of the oldest churches in CHIESA NUOVA
Rome, also forms part of the Daily 8.30am–noon & 4.30–7pm. MAP P.36–37,
complex. It was rebuilt with the POCKET MAP C15
palace and has since been greatly The Chiesa Nuova was
restored, most recently at the founded by St Philip Neri, who
end of the nineteenth century, tended the poor and sick in the
and has a painting by Federico streets around here for most
Zuccaro, The Coronation of of his life, and commissioned
the Virgin, over the altar, and this church in 1577. Neri died
a twelfth-century icon of the in 1595 and was canonized in
Virgin Mary in a chapel. 1622, and this large church,
as well as being his last
VIA DEL GOVERNO VECCHIO
resting-place (he lies in the
MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP D15 chapel to the left of the apse), is
Via del Governo Vecchio leads his principal memorial. Inside,
west from Piazza Pasquino its main features include three
through one of Rome’s liveliest paintings by Rubens hung at
VIA DEL GOVERNO VECCHIO

42
the high altar, centring on the far end, above the altar, you
Virgin with Angels, and Pietro can just make out a dark and
da Cortona’s ceiling paintings, glowing Virgin with Saints by
showing the Ascension of the Giulio Romano.
Virgin in the apse and, above

CENTRO STORICO
the nave, the construction of SANTA MARIA DELLA PACE
the church and Neri’s famous Mon, Wed, Sat 9am–noon. MAP P.36–37, POCKET
“vision of fire” of 1544, when MAP D14
a globe of fire entered his The church of Santa Maria
mouth and dilated his heart della Pace dates from the late
– a physical event which fifteenth century, although its
apparently affected his health facade and portico were added
thereafter. a couple of hundred years
later by Pietro da Cortona.
VIA DEI CORONARI
Inside, you can see Raphael’s
MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP F13–15 frescoes of various sibyls above
Running from the Tiber to the Chigi chapel (first on the
the top end of Piazza Navona, right), executed in the early
this is the fulcrum of Rome’s sixteenth century, although the
antiques trade. Although the opening times are decidedly
prices are as high as you might erratic. If the church is closed,
expect in such a location, there look in instead on the attached
is a huge number of shops (Via chiostro del Bramante,
dei Coronari itself consists of finished in 1504, a beautifully
virtually nothing else), selling proportioned two-tiered cloister
a tremendous variety of stuff. that is nowadays given over to
A browse makes for one of the temporary art exhibitions and a
city’s most absorbing bits of small café where you can grab
sightseeing. a coffee and a spot of lunch
(entry ticket to exhibition not
SANTA MARIA DELL’ANIMA required).
Daily 9am–12.45pm & 3–7pm. MAP P.36–37,
ANTIQUES SHOP ON VIA DEI CORONARI

POCKET MAP D14

Just off Via dei Coronari, this
church takes its name from
the statue of the Virgin on its
facade, between two pleading
souls in purgatory. It’s
another darkly cosy Roman
church, wide and squat and
crammed into an impossibly
small space. Nowadays it’s
the German national church
in Rome, a richly decorated
affair, almost square in
shape, with a protruding
main sanctuary flanked by
Renaissance tombs. The one
on the right, a beautiful,
rather sad concoction, is
that of the last non-Italian
pope before John Paul II, the
Dutchman Hadrian VI, who
died in 1523, while at the
43
 PALAZZO ALTEMPS
from the first century AD by a
Tues–Sun 9am–7pm. €7, includes Palazzo sculptor called Menelaus – his
Massimo, Terme Diocletian, Crypta Balbi, valid name is carved at the base of
3 days. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP D14 one of the figures. Beyond, one
Just across the street from the room retains a frieze telling
CENTRO STORICO

north end of Piazza Navona, the story of Moses as a cartoon

the beautifully restored strip, with each scene enacted
fifteenth-century Palazzo by nude figures as if on an
Altemps now houses the unfurled tapestry, while in the
cream of the Museo Nazionale room itself there is a colossal
Romano’s aristocratic head of Hera, and – what some
collections of Roman statues. consider the highlight of the
Among treasures too many entire collection – the famous
to mention, there are two, Ludovisi throne: an original
almost identical renderings of fifth-century BC Greek work
Apollo the Lyrist, a magnificent embellished with a delicate
statue of Athena taming a relief portraying the birth of
serpent, and, in the far corner Aphrodite. There’s also the
of the courtyard, a shameless Fireplace Salon, whose huge
Dionysus with a satyr and fireplace, embellished with
panther. Upstairs, the Painted caryatids and lurking ibex –
Views Room, so-called for the the symbol of the Altemps
bucolic scenes on its walls, has family – looks onto the
a fine statue of Hermes; the Suicide of Galatian, apparently
Cupboard Room, next door, commissioned by Julius Caesar
named for its fresco of a display to adorn his Quirinal estate
of wedding gifts against a floral and an incredible sarcophagus
background, has a wonderful depicting a battle in graphic,
statue of a warrior at rest, the almost visceral sculptural
Ludovisi Ares, restored by detail. Without question, one
Bernini in 1622, and a sensitive of Rome’s best collections of
portrayal of Orestes and Electra, classical art.
PA L A Z Z O A LT E M P S

44
 MORIONDO & GARIGLIO
Shops Via Pie di Marmo 21/22. Mon–Sat
ANTICA NORCINERIA 9.30am–1pm & 3.30–7.30pm. MAP P.36–37,
POCKET MAP F15
Via della Scrofa 100. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm. A short walk from the

CENTRO STORICO
MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP E14 Pantheon, this is the city
This deli and butcher is a great centre’s most sumptuous and
place to stock up on Italian refined hand-made chocolate
treats, such as home-cured shop – great for exquisitely
guanciale and pecorino. wrapped gifts.
ARSENALE

PELLICANO
Via del Governo Vecchio 64. Mon
3.30–7.30pm, Tues–Sat 10am–7.30pm. MAP
P.36–37, POCKET MAP D15
This large store is one of many
good boutiques along this
funky stretch, with great dresses
by the owner Patrizia Pieroni
and lots of other stuff by small
independent designers.

CAMPO MARZIO
Via Campo Marzio 41. Daily 10am–1pm &
2–7pm. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP E14
Small shop, part of a chain,
dedicated to ultra-cool pens
and writing accessories,
briefcases and pencil cases.

IL GANCIO
Via del Seminario 82/83. MAP P.36–37, POCKET
MAP E15
High-quality leather bags, PELLICANO
purses and shoes, all made Via Seminario 93. Daily 10am–7pm, except
right here on the premises. Mon am. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP E15
Ezio Pellicano only sells one
G. POGGI thing: ties, made by Ezio
Via del Gesù 74/75. Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & himself or his daughter. You
4–7pm. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP F15 can buy any of the hundreds
This long-established store you see on display, or you
bang in the centre of the centro can choose from one of the
storico, this store caters to all many rolls of material and
your artistic needs, with paper, have your own made up in
paint, brushes as well as more about a week.
basic stationery items. Another
branch in Trastevere. DE SANCTIS
Via dei Pastini 23. Mon–Sat 10am–1.30pm
AI MONASTERI & 3–7.30pm, Sun 3.30–7pm. MAP P.36–37,
Piazza delle Cinque Lune. Daily 10am–1pm & POCKET MAP F14
3–7.30pm. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP D14 Upmarket gift shop with fun
Cakes, spirits, toiletries and and often kitsch souvenirs of
other items, all made by monks. Rome.

45
 GIOLITTI
Cafés and Via Uffici del Vicario 40. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP E14

snacks This gelateria is an Italian

institution, and once had a
reputation – now lost – for the
CENTRO STORICO

LA CAFFETTERIA country’s top ice cream. It’s still

Piazza di Pietra 65. Daily 7.30am–10pm. pretty good, however, with a
MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP F14 choice of seventy flavours.
Bureaucrats flock to this
Neapolitan café from PASCUCCI
the nearby parliament: the Via di Torre Argentina 20. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP E16
pastries are imported from This café specializes in frullati –
Naples daily, and the espresso fresh fruit whipped up with ice
is among Rome’s best. Good and milk. The ultimate Roman
for lunch too. refreshment on a hot day.
CAMILLONI CAFFÈ SANT’EUSTACHIO
Piazza Sant’ Eustachio 54. Tues–Sun Piazza Sant’Eustachio. MAP P.36–37, POCKET
8.30am–midnight. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP E15 MAP E15
Good coffee and great cakes, Fantastic coffee, as well as a
as well as sandwiches, salads good line in coffee-based sweets
and other bits and pieces for and cakes.
lunch.
LA TAZZA D’ORO
CREMERIA MONTEFORTE
Via degli Orfani 84/86. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP E15
Via della Rotonda 22. Tues–Sun Straight off Piazza del Pantheon,
10am–11pm. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP E15 this place is well named, since it
This award-winning gelateria is by common consent the home
is a tiny treasure right in the of one of Rome’s best cups of
shadow of the Pantheon. Their coffee, and sinfully rich granita
speciality, a Sicilian slush di caffè, with double dollops of
called cremolato, comes in ten whipped cream.
flavours.
VITTI
C A F F È S A N T ’ E U S TA C H I O

Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 3. MAP P.36–37,

POCKET MAP E13
A wide selection of pastries and
sandwiches, along with delicious
coffee; there are a few tables
inside and lots on the square. A
short lunch menu, too, served
from 12.30pm.

LO ZOZZONE
Via del Teatro Pace 32. Mon–Fri 9am–9pm, Sat
10am–11pm. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP D15
This Rome legend, just around
the corner from Piazza Navona
and with outside seating, serves
the best pizza bianca in town,
filled with whatever you want, as
well as lots of delicious pizza al
taglio choices.
46
 of the centro storico. There’s
Restaurants a huge wine list, and a menu
of six or so hot dishes plus
ARMANDO AL PANTHEON cheese plates and other cold
Salita de’ Crescenzi 30 T 06.6880.3034. specialities. Not cheap, but the
food is great and the service

CENTRO STORICO
Closed Sat pm and all day Sun. MAP P.36–37,
POCKET MAP E15 ultra-attentive.
Unpretentious surroundings
CUL DE SAC
and moderately priced food in
this long-standing staple close Piazza Pasquino 73 T 06.6880.1094. Daily
by the Pantheon. noon–4pm & 7pm–12.30am. MAP P.36–37,
POCKET MAP D15
IL BACARO Busy, long-running wine bar
Via degli Spagnoli 27 T 06.686.4110. with an excellent wine list, a
Mon–Fri 12.30–2.30pm & 8–11.30pm, Sat great city-centre location with
8–11.30pm. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP E14 outside seating, and decent
This little restaurant has a small food. A good choice if you
menu featuring a good and don’t want a full meal.
interesting selection of antipasti
ENOTECA CORSI
and primi, and main courses
focusing on meat, particularly Via del Gesù 87/88 T 06.679.0821. Lunch
beef. only, closed Sun. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP F15
Tucked away between Piazza
DA BAFFETTO Venezia and the Pantheon, this
Via del Governo Vecchio 114 T 06.686.1617. is an old-fashioned Roman
Daily 7pm–midnight. MAP P.36–37, POCKET trattoria and wine shop where
MAP D15 you eat what they happened
Tiny pizzeria that has long to have cooked that morning.
been a Rome institution, Inexpensive, and a real taste of
though it now tends to be old Rome.
swamped by tourists. But it’s
LA FOCACCIA
still good value, and has tables
outside in summer. Via del Pace 11 T 06.6880.3312. Daily
noon–3pm & 7.30pm–1am. MAP P.36–37, POCKET
M A K I N G P I Z Z A S AT D A B A F F E T TO

MAP D15
Just off Piazza Navona, this
place does Neapolitan food
with tables outside looking
across to the church of Santa
Maria del Pace. Decent pizzas
and pasta dishes. Good hearty
fare, and not expensive.

DA FRANCESCO
Piazza del Fico 29 T 06.686.4009. Mon &
Wed–Sun 7pm–1am. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP D15
Not just pizzas in this full-on
CASA BLEVE
pizzeria in the heart of trendy
Via del Teatro Valle 48/49. Tues–Sun Rome – though they’re
2.30–3pm & 7.30–10.30pm. MAP P.36–37, delectable enough – but good
POCKET MAP E15 antipasti, primi and secondi too.
Rome’s beautiful folk come The service can be slapdash,
to enjoy great wine and food but the food and atmosphere
in this bright hall in the heart are second to none.
47
 GINO DA TONINO
Vicolo Rosini 4 T 06.687.3434. Mon–Sat Via del Governo Vecchio 18/19
1–3pm & 8–10.30pm. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP E14 T 06.333.587.0779. Closed Sun. MAP P.36–37,
Down a small alley by the POCKET MAP C15
parliament building, Gino Basic Roman food, always
CENTRO STORICO

presides over his constantly freshly cooked and always

bustling restaurant with delicious, at this unmarked
unhurried authority. The menu centro storico favourite. The
is traditionally Roman, and simple pasta dishes start at €6,
prices on the cheap side – while the straccetti (strips of
mains for around €10. beef with rocket) are a steal at
€7. The few tables fill up quickly,
MACCHERONI so come early or be prepared to
Piazza delle Coppelle T 06.6830.7895. Mon– queue. No credit cards.
Sat 12.30–3pm & 8pm–midnight. MAP P.36–37,
POCKET MAP E14
TRATTORIA
A friendly restaurant that Via del Pozzo in Cornacchie 25
enjoys a wonderful location in T 06.6830.1427. Mon–Fri 12.30–3.30pm &
the heart of the centro storico. 7.30–11.30pm, Sat 7.30–11.30pm. MAP P.36–37,
Inside is spartan yet comfy, POCKET MAP E14
while the outside tables make You feel a million miles away
the most of the pretty square- from the bustling centre in the
cum-intersection. The food is cool, contemporary upstairs
basic Italian fare, affordably dining room of this restaurant,
priced and cheerfully served. which serves superb Sicilian
food. Reckon on €15 for a pasta
ENOTECA CORSI

dish or starter, €23 plus for a

main.

TRATTORIA LILLI
Via Tor di Nona 73 T 06.686.1916. Mon–Sat
1–3pm & 8–11pm. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP D14
One of the city centre’s most
untouristed trattorias, with a
great menu of classic Roman
staples, well prepared and served
with gritty Roman directness.
Starters go for €8, mains for
€9–10, and litres of house wine
for €9. Tables outside, though
you may need to book.
LA MONTECARLO
Vicolo Savelli 12 T 06.686.1877. Daily DA UGO E MARIA
noon–3pm & 6.30pm–1am. MAP P.36–37, POCKET Via di Prefetti. Daily 1–3pm & 8–10pm. MAP
MAP D15 P.36–37, POCKET MAP E14
This hectic pizzeria not far One of the least pretentious
from Piazza Navona is owned restaurants in Rome, with a
by the daughter of the owner choice of four starters and
of Da Baffetto (see p.47) and mains. Very basic food, and no
serves similar crisp, blistered real ambience, unless you count
pizza, along with good pasta the blaring radio, but that’s the
dishes. Tables outside in point, as well as the prices: €7
summer but be prepared to for pasta, €9 for a main dish.
queue.
48
 SOCIÉTÉ LUTÈCE
Bars Piazza Montevecchio 17. Daily 6pm–2am. MAP
BAR DELLA PACE P.36–37, POCKET MAP D14
One of the most self-consciously
Via della Pace 5. Daily 10–2am. MAP P.36–37, cool bars in the centre of Rome,

CENTRO STORICO
POCKET MAP D15 where patrons sip cocktails late
The summer bar, with outside into the night in a whitewashed
tables full of Rome’s beautiful interior hung with abstract art.
people. Quietest during the An aperitivo buffet is included
day, when you can enjoy the in the drink price.
nineteenth-century interior –
marble, mirrors, mahogany and
plants – in peace. Clubs
BLOOM ANIMA
Via del Teatro Pace 29 T 06.6880.2029. Mon, Via Santa Maria dell’ Anima 57
Tues, Thurs–Sat 7pm–3am. MAP P.36–37, POCKET T 347.850.9256. Tues–Sun 10pm–3am. MAP
MAP D15 P.36–37, POCKET MAP D15
Beautiful bar-club in the centre This late-night bar-club is
of Rome, with leather banquettes kitted out in postmodern-
and curvy zinc counter. It serves meets-The Flintstones chic
food too, but you’d do better and offers an assortment of
to fill up elsewhere and come elegant snacks to go with your
on here afterwards, saving cocktails, as DJs spin house,
your money for one of Bloom’s funk and drum’n’bass beats.
excellent cocktails. Fri and Sat
are club nights. LA MAISON
ETABLI Vicolo dei Granari 4 T 06.683.3312. Tues–
Sun 11pm–3am, until 5am on Fri & Sat. MAP
Vicolo delle Vacche 9 T 06.9761.6694. Daily P.36–37, POCKET MAP D15
9am–1am. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP D14 Ritzy club whose chandeliers
Lounge-style bar-restaurant in and glossy decor attracts
the heart of the centro storico’s Rome’s gilded youth. Sunday –
drinking triangle. Comfy sofas gay night – is the one to go for,
and a laid-back vibe. although you’ll need to book a
table if you want to sit down.
FLUID
SOCIÉTÉ LUTÈCE

Via del Governo Vecchio 46/47. MAP P.36–37,

POCKET MAP D15
Über-trendy and ultra-crowded
bar and club whose
labyrinthine interior sports a
watery theme. Don’t go till late.

JONATHAN’S ANGELS
Via della Fossa 18. Daily 1pm–2am. MAP
P.36–37, POCKET MAP D15
This quirky bar certainly wins
the “most decorated” award.
Every inch (even the toilet,
which is worth a visit on its
own) is plastered, painted or
tricked out in outlandish style.

49
 Campo de’ Fiori, the Ghetto
and around
CAMPO DE’ FIORI, THE GHETTO AND AROUND

This southern slice of Rome’s historic core lies between busy

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and the river. It’s an appealing area
for a wander, with cramped, cobbled streets opening out onto
picturesque little piazzas. More of a working quarter than the
neighbouring centro storico, it is less monumental, with more
functional buildings and shops, as evidenced by its main square,
Campo de’ Fiori, whose fruit-and-veg stalls and down-to-earth
bars form a marked contrast to the pavement artists and sleek
cafés of Piazza Navona. To the east it merges into the narrow
streets and scrabbly Roman ruins of the old Jewish Ghetto, an
atmospheric neighbourhood that huddles up close to the city’s
giant synagogue, while just north of here lies the major traffic
intersection and ancient Roman site of Largo di Torre Argentina.
A P R O W L I N G C AT AT L A R G O D I T O R R E A R G E N T I N A
LARGO DI TORRE ARGENTINA
MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP E16
The busy traffic hub of
Largo di Torre Argentina
holds the ruins of four
Republican-era temples, now
home to a thriving colony of
cats; down the steps on the
southwestern corner you can
visit the somewhat pungent cat
sanctuary (daily noon–6pm;
W www.romancats.com), which
tends to the 300 cats that live
in the excavations. On the far
side of the square, the Teatro
Argentina was, in 1816, the
venue for the first performance THE GESÙ
of Rossini’s Barber of Seville,
Piazza del Gesù. Daily 7am–12.30pm &
not a success at all on the
4–7.45pm. MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP F16
night: Rossini was apparently
The church of the Gesù was
booed into taking refuge in
the Bernasconi pastry shop the first Jesuit church to be
(see p.57). Built in 1731, it is built in Rome, and has since
today one of the city’s most served as the model for Jesuit
prestigious theatres, and is churches everywhere – its wide
thought to stand over the spot single-aisled nave and short
in Pompey's theatre where transepts edging out under a
Caesar was assassinated. huge dome were ideal for the
50
THE GESÙ

CAMPO DE’ FIORI, THE GHETTO AND AROUND

large congregations the move- a tangle of writhing bodies,

ment wanted to draw. Today flowing drapery and stucco
it’s still a well-patronized angels stuck like limpets – the
church, notable not only for Baroque at its most fervent.
its size (the glitzy tomb of the Occupying part of the
order’s founder, St Ignatius, first floor of the Jesuit
is topped by a huge globe of headquarters are the Rooms
lapis lazuli – the largest piece of St Ignatius (Mon–Sat
in existence) but also for the 4–6pm, Sun 10am–noon),
staggering richness of its inte- where the saint lived from
1544 until his death in 1556.
rior. Opposite, the tomb of the
There are bits and pieces of
Jesuit missionary, St Francis
furniture and memorabilia,
Xavier, holds a reliquary con- but the true draw is the
taining the saint’s severed arm corridor just outside,
(the rest of his body is in Goa), decorated by Andrea Pozzo
while the ceiling’s ingenious in 1680 – a superb exercise in
WURPSHO·RHLO, the Triumph of perspective, giving an illusion
the Name of Jesus E\%DFLF of a grand hall in what is a
FLD, oozes out of its frame in relatively small space.
51
 CORS Museo
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CO
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Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara 8
Il Drappo 1
Grappolo d’Oro Zampanò 3 BARS
Osteria ar Galletto 6 L’Angolo Divino 10
Piperno 17 Bartaruga 14 SHOPS
Al Pompiere 16 La Curia Di Bacco 5 Ibiz 2
Roscioli 11 Vinaietto 9 Loco 1
Da Sergio 13 La Vineria 7 Spazio Sette 3

CRYPTA BALBI CAMPO DE’ FIORI

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31 MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP D16
T 06.3996.7700. Tues–Sun 9am–7.45pm. €7. In many ways Rome’s most
MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP F16 appealing square, Campo
This corner plot is the site de’ Fiori is home to a lively
of a Roman theatre, the fruit and vegetable market
remains of which later became (Mon–Sat 8am–2pm), flanked
incorporated in a number of by restaurants and cafés, and
medieval houses. An exhibition busy pretty much all day and
takes you through the night; it’s one of the best places
evolution of the site, with lots in town for an early-evening
of English explanation, but you aperitivo, but a rough late-night
have to take one of the hourly crowd means it’s worth
tours to see the site proper, and avoiding later on, at weekends
try to glean what you can from especially.
the various arches, latrines, No one really knows how
column bases and supporting the square came by its name,
walls that make up the cellar which means “field of flowers”,
of the current building. The but one theory holds that it
real interest is in the close was derived from the Roman
dissection of one city block Campus Martius, which used to
over two thousand years. On cover most of this part of town;
Sundays at 3pm there are visits another claims it is after Flora,
to parts of the site currently the mistress of Pompey, whose
under excavation. theatre used to stand on what

52
 PIAZZA SAN
Campo de’ Fiori and the Ghetto VIA D

VIA DI TORRE ARGENTINA

VIA MONTERONE
E I NA O Galleria Doria
ANDREA RI VIA DELL’ARECLLA PIAZZA
Museo DELLA VALLE DELLA CIAMB GRAZIOLI
Pamphilj

VIA DEL GESÙ

VIA DEI CASTANI
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CORSO VITTOR BISCIT
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Sant’Andrea UELE II
IONE

PIAZZA San Marco

DEL
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della Valle

VIA DE

CAMPO DE’ FIORI, THE GHETTO AND AROUND

PARADISO
CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II
D EL

VIA DEL SUDARIO Palazzo

GLI AS
VIA DI TORRE ARGENTINA
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Teatro
VIA DEL M

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V. MICHELANGELO CAETANI

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is now the northeast corner of The Renaissance Palazzo

the square – a huge complex by Spada houses a gallery
all accounts, which stretched of paintings collected by
right over to Largo Argentina, Cardinal Bernardino Spada
and where Julius Caesar was and his brother Virgilio in
famously stabbed on the Ides the seventeenth century.
of March, 44 BC. Later, Campo However, the main feature
de’ Fiori was the site of the is the building itself: its
city’s cattle market and public facade is frilled with stucco
executions, the most notorious adornments, and off the small
of which is commemorated courtyard is a crafty trompe
by the statue of a hooded l’oeil by Borromini – a tunnel
Giordano Bruno in the middle whose nine-metre length
of the square. Bruno was a late is multiplied about four
sixteenth-century freethinker times through the architect’s
who was denounced to the tricks with perspective.
Inquisition; when he refused Inside, the gallery’s four
to renounce his philosophical rooms aren’t spectacularly
beliefs, he was burned at the interesting unless you’re a
stake. connoisseur of seventeenth-
and eighteenth-century Italian
PALAZZO SPADA painting; of special note,
Piazza Capo di Ferro 13 T 06.683.2409, though, are two portraits of
W www.galleriaborghese.it. Tues–Sun Cardinal Bernadino by Reni
8.30am–7.30pm. €5. MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP D16 and Guercino.

53
 PALAZZO FARNESE left the rest to his brother and
Piazza Farnese. Mon & Thurs visits in French cousin, Agostino and Ludovico,
or Italian at 3pm, 4pm, 5pm; free; book in and various assistants such
advance at Via Giulia 250 on T 06.6889.2818, as Guido Reni and Guercino,
or E visitefarnese@france-italia.it. MAP P.52–53, who went on to become some
CAMPO DE’ FIORI, THE GHETTO AND AROUND

POCKET MAP D16 of the most sought-after artists

Just south of Campo de’ of the seventeenth century.
Fiori, Piazza Farnese is a It’s a fantastic piece of work,
quite different square, with perhaps only eclipsed in Rome
great fountains spurting out by the Sistine Chapel itself;
of carved lilies – the Farnese sadly, Carracci, disillusioned
emblem – into marble tubs by the work, and bitter about
brought from the Baths of the relative pittance that he was
Caracalla, and the sober bulk paid for it, didn’t paint much
of the Palazzo Farnese itself. afterwards, and died penniless a
Commissioned in 1514 by few years later.
Alessandro Farnese – later Paul
III – from Antonio di Sangallo VIA GIULIA
the Younger, the building was MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP B14–D17
worked on after the architect’s Via Giulia, running parallel
death by Michelangelo, who to the Tiber, was built by
added the top tier of windows Julius II to connect Ponte Sisto
and cornice. It now houses the with the Vatican. The street
French Embassy and holds what was conceived as the centre
has been called the greatest of of papal Rome, and Julius
all Baroque ceiling paintings, commissioned Bramante to
Annibale Carracci’s Loves of line it with imposing palaces.
the Gods, completed in 1603. Bramante didn’t get very far,
Centring on the Marriage of but the street became a popular
Bacchus and Ariadne, this residence for wealthier Roman
is supposed to represent the families, and is still lined with
binding of the Aldobrandini and elegant palazzi; it makes for a
Farnese families, and is an erotic pleasant wander, with features
hotchpotch of cavorting flesh. like the playful Fontana del
Carracci did the main plan and Mascherone to tickle your
the central painting himself, but interest along the way.
VIA GIULIA

54
FO N TA N A D E L L E TA R TA RU G H E
FONTANA DELLE TARTARUGHE
MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP E16
A sheltered enclave between
Via Portico d’Ottavia and Via
delle Botteghe Oscure, Piazza

CAMPO DE’ FIORI, THE GHETTO AND AROUND

Mattei might be recognizable
from its role as a set in the
1990s film, The Talented Mr
Ripley. But it’s best known
as the site of one of the city’s
most charming fountains, the
Fontana delle Tartarughe,
or Turtle Fountain, a late
sixteenth-century creation
restored by Bernini, who
apparently added the turtles.

THE SYNAGOGUE
Lungotevere Cenci T 06.684.00661,
W www.museoebraico.roma.it. Synagogue:
Mon–Thurs 9am–6pm, Fri & Sun
9am–12.30pm. Museum: mid-June to
mid-Sept Sun–Thurs 10am–6.15pm, Fri
VIA PORTICO D’OTTAVIA 10am–3.15pm; mid-Sept to mid-June
MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP E17 Sun–Thurs 10am–4.15pm, Fri 9am–1.15pm;
Cross Via Arenula into the closed Jewish holidays. €7.50. MAP P.52–53,
Ghetto and the contrast with POCKET MAP E17
stately Via Giulia can be felt The Ghetto’s principal Jewish
immediately: this crumbling sight is the huge Synagogue,
area of narrow, confusing built in 1904. There are hourly
switchback streets and alleys guided tours of the building in
with a lingering sense of English, afterwards taking in
age is one of Rome’s most the well-presented museum,
atmospheric. The city’s Jewish with a collection of silverware,
population stretches as far carvings and manuscripts.
back as the second century BC, The interior of the building is
though nowadays a handful of impressive, rising to a high,
kosher restaurants, butchers rainbow-hued dome, and the
and the like are pretty much all tours are excellent, giving
that remains to mark this out a good background on the
from any other quarter. building and the persecution
The Ghetto’s main artery, Via of Rome’s Jewish community
Portico d’Ottavia, leads down through history. Hour-long
to the Portico d’Ottavia, a tours of the Ghetto in English
second-century BC gate, rebuilt are also organized (book
by Augustus and dedicated to his through the museum; €8).
sister in 23 BC. There’s a walkway
(summer daily 9am–7pm, winter
daily 9am–6pm) through the
ancient fish market, leading to
the adjacent Teatro di Marcello
(see p.65).

55
 ISOLA TIBERINA rescued from the temple,
and an ancient wellhead on
MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP E17
the altar steps, carved with
Almost opposite the
figures relating to the founding
Synagogue, the Ponte Fabricio
of the church, including St
crosses the Tiber to the Isola
Bartholomew himself. The saint
CAMPO DE’ FIORI, THE GHETTO AND AROUND

Tiberina. Built in 62 BC, it’s

also features in the painting
the only classical bridge to
above the altar, hands tied
remain intact without help
above his head, on the point
from the restorers. As for the
of being skinned alive – his
island, it’s a calm respite from
famous and gruesome mode of
the city centre proper, and is
martyrdom.
mostly given over to Rome’s
oldest hospital, that of the PIAZZA BOCCA DELLA VERITÀ
Fatebenefratelli, founded
in 1548 – appropriately, it MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP F18
would seem, as the island Piazza Bocca della Verità
was originally home to a has as its focus two of the
third-century BC temple of city’s better-preserved Roman
Aesculapius, the Roman god temples – the Temple of
of healing. The tenth-century Portunus and the Temple of
church of San Bartolomeo Hercules Victor, the latter long
(Mon–Sat 10.30am–1pm & known as the Temple of Vesta
3–5.30pm, Sun 9am–1pm because, like all vestal temples,
& 6.30–8pm) stands on the it is circular. Both date from
temple’s original site and is the end of the second century
worth a peep inside for its BC, and although you can’t get
ancient columns, probably inside, they’re fine examples
of republican-era places of
ISOLA TIBERINA

worship. The feature that

gives the square its name,
however, is the Bocca della
Verità (Mouth of Truth), an
ancient Roman drain cover in
the shape of an enormous face
that in medieval times would
apparently swallow the hand
of anyone who hadn’t told
the truth. It was particularly
popular with husbands
anxious to test the fidelity
of their wives; now it is one
of the city’s biggest tour-bus
attractions.
The piazza’s church, Santa
Maria in Cosmedin (daily
9.30am–6pm, until 5pm in
winter) is a typically Roman
medieval basilica with a huge
marble altar and a colourful
Cosmati-work mosaic floor –
one of the city’s finest.

56
 for breakfast, coffee and cake
Shops or a light lunch. After dark,
it’s a relaxing bar with great
IBIZ cocktails, and there’s a popular
Via dei Chiavari 39. Mon–Sat 9.30am–7.30pm. aperitivo buffet with DJ set on
Sunday evenings.

CAMPO DE’ FIORI, THE GHETTO AND AROUND

MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP D16
Great leather bags, purses
BERNASCONI
and rucksacks in exciting
contemporary designs made on Piazza Cairoli 16. Tues–Sun 7am–8.30pm. MAP
the premises. P.52–53, POCKET MAP E16
A great family-run pasticceria,
LOCO with sfogliatelle to die for. Good
Via dei Baullari 22. Mon 3.30–8pm, Tues–Sat coffee too.
10.30am–8pm. MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP D16
IL FORNO DI CAMPO DE’ FIORI
Pricey, eccentrically designed
shoes, the like of which you Campo de’ Fiori 22. Mon–Sat 7.30am–2.30pm
won’t find anywhere else. & 4.45–8pm. MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP D16
The pizza bianca here (just
SPAZIO SETTE drizzled with olive oil on top)
Via dei Barbieri 7. Mon 3.30–7.30pm, Tues– is a Roman legend, and their
Sat 9.30am–1pm & 3.30–7.30pm. MAP P.52–53, pizza rossa (with a smear of
POCKET MAP E16 tomato sauce) follows close
This homewares emporium behind.
stocks the very best of Italian
design, from quirky Alessi
egg-timers to curvy Flos lamps. Restaurants
Don't miss the magnificent
fresco on the top floor. DAR FILETTARO A SANTA
BARBARA
Largo dei Librari 88 T 06.686.4018. Mon–Sat
Cafés and 5–10.40pm. MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP D16
A fish-and-chip shop without
snacks the chips. Paper-covered
Formica tables (outdoors in
ALBERTO PICA summer), cheap wine, beer and
fried cod. A timeless Roman
Via della Seggiola 12. Jan–March, Oct & speciality, though the service
Nov Mon–Sat 8.30am–2am, April–Sept & Dec can be offhand.
Mon–Sat 8.30am–2am, Sun 4.30pm–2am. MAP
P.52–53, POCKET MAP E17
A L B E R TO P I C A

Gelato has been the Pica

family’s stock in trade for
generations, and it shows: this
gelateria has a great choice of
flavours, and the ice cream is
sublime.

BARNUM CAFÉ
Via del Pellegrino 87. Mon–Fri 8.30am–
midnight, Sat & Sun 8.30am–2am. MAP P.52–53,
POCKET MAP D15
A welcome addition to the area,
this friendly circus-themed
café with free wi-fi is great
57
 PIPERNO
Monte de’ Cenci 9 T 06.6880.6629. Tues–
Sat 12.45–2.20pm & 7.45–11.20pm, Sun
12.45–2.20pm. MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP E17
Tucked away on a hard-to-find
CAMPO DE’ FIORI, THE GHETTO AND AROUND

piazza, Piperno is the best of the

area’s Roman-Jewish restaurants.
It’s not cheap, but it’s a lovely
space and there’s outside seating
in the summer. Antipasti and
primi go for around €14, and
G R A P P O LO D ' O R O Z A M PA N Ò

secondi for €25 .

AL POMPIERE
Via Santa Maria dei Calderari 38
T 06.686.8377. Mon–Sat 12.30am–3pm &
7.30–11pm. MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP E17
Housed in a frescoed old palace
IL DRAPPO
in the heart of the Ghetto, this
Vicolo del Malpasso 9 T 06.687.7365. fusty old restaurant serves up
Mon–Sat 1–3pm & 7–11.30pm. MAP P.52–53, some delicious Roman-Jewish
POCKET MAP C15 food. Prices are moderate, and
This Sardinian restaurant just its warren of high-ceilinged
off Via Giulia has been going rooms is usually crowded.
for years, and attracts large
crowds of loyal regulars to ROSCIOLI
sample its fish, seafood and Via dei Giubbonari 21–22 T 06.687.5287.
suckling pig, along with wafer- Mon–Sat 12.30–4pm & 6pm–midnight. MAP
thin Sardinian bread. P.52–53, POCKET MAP E16
Is it a deli, a wine bar, or fully
GRAPPOLO D’ORO ZAMPANÒ fledged restaurant? Actually it’s
Piazza della Cancelleria 80 T 06.686.4118. Mon
all three, and you can either just
& Wed–Sat 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–11pm, Tues &
have a glass of wine and some
Sun 7.30–11pm. MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP D16
cheese or go for the full menu,
Curiously untouched by the which has great pasta dishes
hordes in nearby Campo de’ and secondi at lunch time and
Fiori, this restaurant serves in the evening. It’s pricey, and
imaginative Roman cuisine the service can be on the snooty
in a traditional trattoria side, but the food is terrific.
atmosphere. Roscioli also has its own bakery
nearby at Via dei Chiavari 34.
OSTERIA AR GALLETTO
DA SERGIO
Piazza Farnese 102 T 06.686.1714. Mon–Sat
Vicolo delle Grotte 27 T 06.686.4293. Mon–
12.15–3pm & 7.15–11pm. MAP P.52–53, POCKET
Sat 12.30am–3.30pm & 6.30pm–midnight.
MAP D16
MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP D16
Situated on one of Rome’s
stateliest piazzas, this restaurant Towards the river from
manages to retain the feel of a Campo de’ Fiori, this is an
provincial trattoria, specializing out-of-the-way, cosy trattoria
in traditional Roman cookery with a limited menu and the
with a homely touch – try the deeply authentic feel of old
beef straccetti with rocket. Very Rome. Inexpensive, and with
good value, too. outdoor seating in summer.

58
 regulars, is an atmospheric
Bars place for a drink, with
wood-clad walls and a cosy
L’ANGOLO DIVINO feel. There is an extensive menu
Via dei Balestrari 12. Tues–Sat of wines by the glass and a
selection of light appetizers,

CAMPO DE’ FIORI, THE GHETTO AND AROUND

10.30am–2.30pm & 5pm–2am. Mon & Sun
5pm–2am; closed Mon & Sun June–Aug. MAP deli meats and cheeses.
P.52–53, POCKET MAP D16
VINAIETTO
Quite a peaceful haven after
lively Campo de’ Fiori, this Via Monti della Farina 38. Mon–Sat
wine bar has a large selection 10.30am–3pm & 6.30–10pm. MAP P.52–53,
of wine, and a menu of simple, POCKET MAP E16
typical wine-bar food fare – This hole-in-the-wall enoteca
bread, cheese and cold cuts – as has just a handful of tables, so
well as more substantial dishes most of its regulars drink their
in the evening, such as smoked wine outside on the cobbles.
goose with mashed potato Though mainly a wine shop,
(€15). the enthusiastic owners offer
a range of wines to drink by
BARTARUGA the glass – and it’s far less
Piazza Mattei 9. Sun–Thurs 6pm–midnight, Fri expensive than nearby Campo
& Sat 6pm–2am. MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP E16 de’ Fiori.
This theatrical bar’s
LA VINERIA
wonderfully camp interior,
eclectically furnished Campo de’ Fiori 15. Mon–Sat 8.30am–2am.
with eighteenth-century MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP D16
knick-knacks, is a great spot Long-established bar/wine
both for pre-dinner aperitivi shop right on the Campo,
and for late-night drinks. It patronized by a mix of devoted
does a good line in exotic regulars and tourists. There’s an
cocktails too. extensive list of wines by the
glass, starting at just €2, as well
LA CURIA DI BACCO as a few snacks and light meals.
Via del Biscione 79. Daily 5pm–2am. MAP
LA VINERIA

P.52–53, POCKET MAP D16

This long, thin, bustling wine
bar was hollowed out of the
ruins of the ancient Teatro
di Pompeii, near Campo de'
Fiori. A young crowd, some
good wines, pricey beer and
interesting snacks, including
crostini, bruschette and cheese
plates.

IL GOCCETTO
Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14. Mon 6.30pm–
midnight, Tues–Sat 10.30am–2pm &
5.30pm–midnight. MAP P36–37, POCKET MAP C15
This family-run wine bar and
shop, patronized by devoted

59
 Piazza Venezia and the
Capitoline Hill
PIAZZA VENEZIA AND THE CAPITOLINE HILL

For many people the modern centre of Rome is Piazza Venezia

– not so much a square as a road junction, close to both
the medieval and Renaissance centre of Rome and the city’s
ancient ruins, and the best landmarked space in Rome, the
great white bulk of the Vittorio Emanuele monument marking
it out from anywhere else in the city. Behind lie the Piazza del
Campidoglio and the Capitoline Hill, one of the first settled of
Rome’s seven hills.
PALAZZO VENEZIA SAN MARCO
Via del Plebiscito 118. Tues–Sun 9am–7pm. Mon–Sat 8.30am–noon & 4–6.30pm; closed
€4. MAP P.61, POCKET MAP F16 Mon am & 3rd Thurs of the month. MAP P.61,
Forming the western side of POCKET MAP F16
the piazza, Palazzo Venezia Adjacent to the Palazzo
was built for the Venetian Pope Venezia on its southern side,
Paul II in the mid-fifteenth the church of San Marco is
century and was for a long time one of the oldest basilicas in
the embassy of the Venetian Rome. Originally founded in
Republic. More famously, 336 AD on the spot where the
Mussolini moved in here apostle is said to have lived, it
while in power, occupying the was rebuilt in 833 and added
vast Sala del Mappamondo to by various Renaissance
and making his declamatory and eighteenth-century popes
speeches to the huge crowds including Pope Paul II. The
below from the small balcony, apse mosaic dates from the
although this is only viewable ninth century and shows Pope
if you’re attending one of the Gregory IV offering his church
exhibitions held here. Most to Christ above a graceful
of the rest of the building is semicircle of sheep.
home to the Museo Nazionale
PRIESTS WALKING THROUGH PIAZZA VENEZIA

di Palazzo Venezia – which

has a lot of fifteenth-century
devotional works from central
and northern Italy, some
beautifully displayed bronzes
and rooms full of weapons and
ceramic jars from an ancient
monastic pharmacy. You can
also walk out to the palace’s
upper loggia for a view over
the palm-filled courtyard –
the gardens are some of the
prettiest in Rome.

60
 PIAZZA

DEL
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VIA DEL GESÙ

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to see inside, not least the large
Daily 9.30am–6.30pm; free. Lifts to terrace: Museo di Risorgimento, one
summer Mon–Thurs 9am–7.30pm, Fri & of the best of many you will
Sat 9.30am– 11.30pm, Sun 9am–8pm; see in Italy. But it’s the outside
winter Mon–Thurs 9.30am–6.30pm, Fri–Sun that’s best, centring on the
9.30am–7.30pm. €7. MAP P.61, POCKET MAP F16–G16 tomb of the unknown soldier
The rest of the buildings and an enormous equestrian
on Piazza Venezia pale into statue of Vittorio Emanuele II,
insignificance beside the on a plinth friezed with figures
marble monstrosity rearing up representing the major Italian
across the street– the Vittorio cities. Clamber up and down
Emanuele Monument or the sweeping terraces and
“Vittoriano”, erected at the take the lifts from behind the
turn of the nineteenth century monument to the top, which
to commemorate Italian give perhaps the most fabulous
Unification. Variously likened views in Rome – partly because
in the past to a typewriter, it’s the one place in Rome
and, by American GIs, to a from which you can’t see the
wedding cake, there are things Vittoriano.

61
 THE CAPITOLINE HILL
to at least see the Capitoline
MAP P.61, POCKET MAP F17 Museums, which are perhaps
The real pity about the Vittorio the most venerable of all the
Emanuele Monument is that city’s collections. They’re
it obscures the view of the divided into two parts – the
PIAZZA VENEZIA AND THE CAPITOLINE HILL

Capitoline Hill behind – once, Palazzo dei Conservatori and

in the days of imperial Rome, the Palazzo Nuovo – and you
the spiritual and political centre should try to see both rather
of the Roman Empire. Its name than choosing one. Tickets are
derives from its position as the valid for a day so you can fit
“caput mundi” or “head of the in each museum with a break
world”, and its influence and inbetween, perhaps for a stroll
importance resonates to this around the Roman Forum.
day – words like “capitol” and The Palazzo dei
“capital” all derive from here, as Conservatori is the larger,
does the word “money”, which more varied collection, with
comes from the temple to Juno some ancient sculpture as
Moneta that once stood nearby well as later pieces and an art
and housed the Roman mint. gallery. Inside, the centrepiece
of the first floor, the Sala degli
THE CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS Orazi e Curiazi, is appropriately
Tues–Sun 9am–8pm T 060608, W www. decorated with giant, late
museicapitolini.org. €6.50, €8.50 for joint sixteenth-century frescoes
ticket with Centrale Montemartini (see p.000); depicting legendary tales
valid 7 days. MAP P.61, POCKET MAP F16–F17 from the early days of Rome.
If you see no other museums of Check out the corner room,
ancient sculpture in Rome, try which contains the so-called
V I T TO R I O E M A N U E L E M O N U M E N T

62
CAPTIOLINE MUSEUMS

PIAZZA VENEZIA AND THE CAPITOLINE HILL

Spinario, a Roman statue of a Petronilla (an early Roman
boy picking a thorn out of his martyr who was the supposed
foot, and, next door, the sacred daughter of St Peter), and two
symbol of Rome, the Etruscan paintings by Caravaggio, one
bronze she-wolf nursing the a replica of the young John the
mythic founders of the city. Baptist, which hangs in the
Move on to the airy new wing, Palazzo Doria-Pamphilj (see
where an equestrian statue p.34), the other an early work
of Marcus Aurelius, formerly known as The Fortune-Teller.
in the square outside, takes The Palazzo Nuovo across
centre stage, alongside a giant the square – also accessible
bronze statue of Constantine by way of an underpass – has
– or at least its head, hand and some of the best of the city’s
orb – and a rippling bronze of Roman sculpture crammed
Hercules. into half a dozen or so
The second-floor pinacoteca rooms. Among them are the
holds Renaissance paintings remarkable statue of a Dying
from the fourteenth to the Gaul, a Satyr Resting, the
late seventeenth centuries – inspiration for Hawthorne’s
highlights include a couple book The Marble Faun, and
of portraits by Van Dyck and the red marble Laughing
a Portrait of a Crossbowman Silenus – along with busts of
by Lorenzo Lotto, a pair of Roman emperors and other
paintings by Tintoretto – a famous names: a young
Flagellation and Christ Crowned Augustus, a cruel Caracalla,
with Thorns, and a fine early and the centrepiece, a life-sized
work by Ludovico Carracci, portrait of Helena, the mother
Head of a Boy. There’s also of Constantine. Also, don’t
a vast picture by Guercino, miss the coy Capitoline Venus,
depicting the Burial of Santa housed in a room on its own.

63
 THE SHE-WOLF
PIAZZA VENEZIA AND THE CAPITOLINE HILL

SANTA MARIA IN ARACOELI PIAZZA DEL CAMPIDOGLIO

Daily 9am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm. MAP P.61, MAP P.61, POCKET MAP F16–G16
POCKET MAP G16 Next door to the Aracoeli
The church of Santa Maria in Staircase, the smoothly rising
Aracoeli crowns the highest ramp of the Cordonata leads
point on the Capitoline Hill to Piazza del Campidoglio,
and is built on the ruins of a one of Rome’s most perfectly
temple to Juno. Reached by a proportioned squares, designed
flight of 124 steps up the steep by Michelangelo in the last
Aracoeli Staircase, erected in years of his life for Pope Paul
1348, or more easily from a III. Michelangelo died before
side entrance accessible from his plan was completed, but
the Vittoriano or Piazza del his designs were faithfully
Campidoglio, the church is executed – balancing the
one of Rome’s most ancient piazza, redesigning the facade
basilicas, known for its role of the Palazzo dei Conservatori
as keeper of the so-called and projecting an identical
“Bambino”, a small statue of the building across the way, the
Christ Child, carved from the Palazzo Nuovo. These buildings
wood of a Gethsemane olive are home to the Capitoline
tree. The statue is said to have Museums (see p.62); both
miraculous healing powers and are angled slightly to focus
was traditionally called out on Palazzo Senatorio, Rome’s
to the sickbeds of the ill and town hall. In the centre of the
dying all over the city, its coach square Michelangelo placed an
commanding instant right of equestrian statue of Emperor
way through the heavy Rome Marcus Aurelius (now a
traffic. The Bambino was stolen copy), which had previously
in 1994, but a copy now stands stood outside San Giovanni
in its place, in a small chapel to in Laterano; early Christians
the left of the high altar. Take had refrained from melting it
a look also at the frescoes by down because they believed
Pinturrichio in a chapel on the it to be of Constantine (the
right, recording the life of St first Roman emperor to follow
Bernardino. Christianity).

64
THE SHE-WOLF AND TARPEIAN an imprint claimed to be of
ROCK St Peter’s head as he tumbled
down the stairs (though when
MAP P.61, POCKET MAP F17
the prison was in use, the only
Just off the Piazza del
access was through a hole in
Campidoglio, the statue of
the ceiling).

PIAZZA VENEZIA AND THE CAPITOLINE HILL

Romulus and Remus suckling
the she-wolf provides one of TEATRO DI MARCELLO
Rome’s most enduring images.
Beyond is the Tarpeian Rock, Daily 9am–7pm; free. MAP P.61, POCKET MAP F17
from which traitors were Two minutes from the
thrown in ancient times – and Capitoline Hill, the ancient
which now gives excellent Teatro di Marcello was
views over the Forum. begun by Julius Caesar and
finished by Augustus. It
SAN PIETRO IN CARCERE AND became a fortified palace in
THE MAMERTINE PRISON Renaissance times, the property
of the powerful Orsini family.
Daily 9am–7pm; donation expected for the
Forming the backdrop for
prison. MAP P.61, POCKET MAP G16
summer concerts, it also
Steps lead down from the
Tarpeian Rock to San Pietro provides a neat cut-through to
in Carcere – built above the the Jewish Ghetto (see p.50)
ancient Mamertine Prison, just beyond.
where spies, vanquished
soldiers and other enemies SAN PIETRO IN CARCERE
of the Roman state were
incarcerated, and where St
Peter himself was held. The
church isn’t of that much
interest, but steps lead down
into the murky depths of the
jail, where you can see the bars
to which he was chained, along
with the spring the saint is said
to have created to baptize other
prisoners. At the top of
the staircase, hollowed out of
the honeycomb of stone, is

too – starters for around €12,

Restaurant mains for €15–20.

TAVERNA DEGLI AMICI

Piazza Margana 36/37 T 06.6992.0637. MAP Bar
P.61, POCKET MAP F16
On the edge of the Jewish SCHOLARS’ LOUNGE
Ghetto, this long-standing Via del Plebiscito 101b. Daily 11am–3.30am.
restaurant is a great place for MAP P.61, POCKET MAP F15
lunch after the rigours of the This is a good city-centre Irish
Capitoline Hill, with tables pub, with regular live music
outside on this atmospheric and giant screens showing
little square. Lots of Roman premiership football and other
classics, and moderate prices sports. Food all day.
65
 Ancient Rome
There are remnants of ancient Rome all over the city, but the
most famous and concentrated collection of sights – the Forum
THE FORUM, COLOSSEUM AND AROUND

and Colosseum together with the Palatine Hill – stretches

southeast from the Capitoline Hill. You can spend a good
half-day, perhaps longer, picking your way through the rubble of
what was once the core of the ancient world. The most obvious
place to start is the original, Republican-period Forum, the
political and commercial heart of the ancient city. You can then
visit the later Imperial Forums that lie across Via dei Fori Impe-
riali before heading up the legendary Palatine Hill, once home
to the city’s most powerful citizens. Just beyond the Forum,
the Colosseum is Rome’s most iconic monument, a beautiful
construction seemingly at odds with its violent past.

TRAJAN'S MARKETS

66
 Visiting the Forum, Palatine and Colosseum
he Forum, Palatine and Colosseum are open daily (8.30am–1hr

T before sunset). A joint ticket to all three sights costs €12. Queues,
to the Colosseum especially, can be a problem: while they do

THE FORUM, COLOSSEUM AND AROUND

move quickly, they’re rarely less than 100m long. To avoid them, buy
your tickets at the Palatine ticket office on Via di San Gregorio, which
generally has a shorter wait, buy a Romapass (see p.183), which allows
you to use a different queue, or book online through W www.ticketclic.it
(€1.50 booking fee). A visitor centre (daily 9.30am–6pm), opposite the
church of Santi Cosma e Damiano, has more information should you need
it, and a café to relieve your aching feet.

IMPERIAL FORUMS AND Outside, the Forum of Trajan

TRAJAN'S MARKETS holds the Column of Trajan,
erected to celebrate the
MAP P.68–69, POCKET MAP F5
emperor’s victories in Dacia
The original Roman Forum was
and covered top to bottom with
the centre of republican-era
reliefs commemorating the
Rome but the rise of the
highlights of the campaign. The
empire, and Rome’s increased
forums of Augustus (further
importance as a world power,
along) and Caesar (on the
led to the extensions of the
other side of the road) might
Imperial Forums nearby. Julius
also detain you for a while.
Caesar began the expansion
in around 50 BC, and work
THE COLUMN OF TRAJAN

was continued after his

assassination by his nephew
and successor Augustus, and
later by the Flavian emperors
– Vespasian, Nerva and finally
Trajan. The remains litter the
sides of Via dei Fori Imperiali,
and are now in large part open
to the public. Trajan's Markets
(Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; W www.
mercatiditraiano.it; €6.50;), are
the most exciting city-centre
ruins to be recently excavated,
the result of years of restoration
work. Entered from Via IV
Novembre, the on-site museum
starts with the airy Great Hall;
beyond is the Great Hemicycle
section, with displays of
important finds from the
various forums, as well as the
Via Biberatica, an ancient street
lined with the well-preserved
remains of shops and bars.

67
 VIA PANIS
San Marco

SALITA DEL GRILL O

VIA D

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V. DI
PIAZZA PIAZZA DELLA Column
Palazzo PIAZZA VENEZIA MADONNA of Trajan Trajan’s

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THE FORUM, COLOSSEUM AND AROUND

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Ancient Rome Septimius

Severus
URO

SANTI COSMA E DAMIANO (Fri–Sun 10am–1pm &

Via dei Fori Imperiali 1. Daily 9am–1pm & 3–6pm), displayed in a room
3–7pm. MAP P.68≠69, POCKET MAP F6 in the corner here, a huge
Across the road from the piece of work with literally
Forum of Augustus, the hundreds of figures spread
vestibule of the church of amongst the ruins of ancient
Santi Cosma e Damiano was Rome.
originally created from the
THE COLOSSEUM
Temple of Romulus in the
Forum, which you can look Piazza del Colosseo. Daily 8.30am–1hr before
down into from the nave of sunset T 06.700.5469. €12 joint ticket with
the church. Turn around, and the Palatine and Roman Forum. MAP P.63–69,
you’ll see the mosaics in the POCKET MAP G6
apse, showing the naturalistic The Colosseum is perhaps
figures of the two saints being Rome’s most awe-inspiring
presented to Christ by St Peter ancient monument: an
and St Paul, flanked by St Felix enormous amphitheatre that,
on the left and St Theodore on despite the depredations of
the right. Outside, the cloister nearly 2000 years still stands
is wonderfully peaceful relatively intact. You’ll not
compared to the busy roads be alone in appreciating it,
around. For a €1 donation and during summer visits
you can also visit the massive can be a chore. But go late in
eighteenth-century Neapolitan the evening or early morning
presepio or Christmas crib before the tour buses arrive,

68
 ZA
NA

VIA
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NI LANZA NZA
VIA GIOVAN EMANUELE

NA
AI MONTI VIA V. DELLO
EQ STATUTO
UIZ PIAZZA
VIA IN SELCI IA
VITTORIO
EMANUELE II

THE FORUM, COLOSSEUM AND AROUND

LARGO
VIA Museo Nazionale LEOPARDI VIA

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D EL
San Pietro LE S E T T di Arte Orientale

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0 metres 250
Santi Giovanni
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0 yards 250

and the arena can seem more animals that were to take part
like the marvel it really is. in the games. The floor was
Originally known as the covered with canvas to make
Flavian Amphitheatre (the it waterproof and the canvas
name Colosseum is a much was covered with several
later invention), it was begun centimetres of sand to absorb
around 72 AD by the Emperor blood; in fact, our word “arena”
Vespasian, who was anxious is derived from the Latin word
to extinguish the memory of for sand. Once inside, you can
Nero, and so chose the site of wander around most of the
Nero’s Domus Aurea for the lower level, and a larger section
stadium. Inside, 60,000 people of the upper level, though
could be seated, with 10,000 or even here you are still only
so standing. The seating was about halfway up the original
allocated on a strict basis, with structure. You can gaze down
the emperor and his attendants into the innards of the arena,
occupying the best seats in but there’s been no original
the house, and the social class arena floor since its excavation
of the spectators diminishing in the nineteenth century. The
nearer the top. There was lower floor contains a decent
a labyrinth below that was bookshop and a space for
covered with a wooden floor regular temporary exhibitions;
and punctuated at various an area by the lifts is given over
places with trap doors and to a display of fragments of
lifts to raise and lower the masonry from the Colosseum.

69
 THE ROMAN FORUM
programme for expanding the
Largo della Salara Vecchia, 5/6 Forum, although what you
T 06.3996.7700. Daily 8.30am–1hr before see now is a third-century
sunset. €12 joint ticket with Colosseum and AD reconstruction. The
Palatine. MAP P.70–71, POCKET MAP F6-G6 Senate met here, and inside
THE FORUM, COLOSSEUM AND AROUND

The two or so hectares that three wide stairs rise to the

make up the Forum were once left and right, on which
the heart of the Mediterranean about 300 senators could be
world, and although the glories accommodated with their
of ancient Rome are hard to folding chairs. In the centre
glimpse here now, there’s a is the speaker’s platform,
symbolic allure to the place with a porphyry statue of a
that makes it one of the world’s togaed figure. Nearby, the
most compelling (not to Arch of Septimius Severus
mention most ruined) sets of was constructed in the early
ruins anywhere in the world. third century AD by his sons
You need an imagination Caracalla and Geta to mark
and a little history to fully their father’s victories in what
appreciate the place, but the is now Iran. The friezes on it
public spaces are easy enough recall Severus and in particular
to discern, especially the spinal Caracalla, who ruled Rome
Via Sacra, the best-known with undisciplined terror for
street of ancient Rome, along seven years. To the left of the
which victorious emperors arch, the low brown wall is the
and generals would ride in Rostra, from which important
procession to give thanks at speeches were made (it was
the Capitoline’s Temple of from here that Mark Anthony
Juno. A little way beyond, the most likely spoke about Caesar
large cube-shaped building is after his death). Left of the
the Curia, built on the orders Rostra are the long stairs of the
of Julius Caesar as part of his Basilica Julia, built by Julius

SS. Luca e Entrance

Martina
Mamertine Curia
Prison Basilica
Emilia
Exit Arch of
Septimius Lapis
Niger Shrine of Temple of SS. Cosma
Temple of Severus Antoninus e Damiano
Venus
Concordia Cloacina and Faustina
Augusta (S. Lorenzo
Column of
Rostra Phocas in Miranda)
Temple of
Temple of Lacus Temple of Romulus
Vespasian Curtius Julius Caesar
and Titus
Arch of Regia
VIA SACRA Augustus
Temple
Temple of of Vesta
Saturn
House of the
Basilica Temple of Vestal Virgins
Julia Castor and
Pollux
VICUS TUSCUS

VIA NOVA

VIA S. T
0 metres 50 EODOR
O Santa Maria
Antiqua
0 yards 50

70
 Caesar in the 50s BC after he Nero: four floors of rooms
returned from the Gallic wars, around a central courtyard,
and, a bit further along, rails still with its pool in the centre
mark the site of the Lacus and fringed by the statues
Curtius – the spot where, or inscribed pedestals of the

THE FORUM, COLOSSEUM AND AROUND

according to legend, a chasm women themselves, with the
opened during the earliest round Temple of Vesta at the
days and the soothsayers near end.
determined that it would only Almost opposite, a shady
be closed once Rome had walkway to the left leads up to
sacrificed its most valuable the Basilica of Maxentius – in
possession into it. Marcus terms of size and ingenuity,
Curtius, a Roman soldier who probably the Forum’s most
declared that Rome’s most impressive remains. Begun by
valuable possession was a Maxentius, it was continued
loyal citizen, hurled himself by his co-emperor and rival,
and his horse into the void Constantine, after he had
and it duly closed. Further defeated Maxentius at the
on, to the right, the enormous Battle of the Milvian Bridge
pile of rubble topped by three in 312 AD. Back on the
graceful Corinthian columns Via Sacra, the hill climbs
is the Temple of Castor and more steeply to the Arch
Pollux, dedicated in 484 BC to of Titus, built by Titus’s
the divine twins, or Dioscuri, brother, Domitian, after the
who appeared miraculously to emperor’s death in 81 AD to
ensure victory for the Romans commemorate his triumphant
in a key battle. Beyond here, return after victories in Judea
the House of the Vestal in 70 AD. It’s a long-standing
Virgins is a second-century tradition that Jews don’t pass
AD reconstruction of a under this arch.
building originally built by

N
VIA DEI
FORI IM
PERIALI

Basilica of
Maxentius

Antiquarium
Santa Maria
VIA SACRA Nova

Meta
Sudans

Exit VIA SACRA

Arch of
Titus Arch of
Constantine

The Roman Forum

71
 T H E C O LO S S E U M
THE FORUM, COLOSSEUM AND AROUND

THE ARCH OF CONSTANTINE round medallions are taken

Via di San Gregorio. MAP P.68–69, POCKET MAP G6 from a temple dedicated to
Just west of the Colosseum, the Emperor Hadrian’s lover,
the huge Arch of Constantine Antinous, and show Antinous
was placed here in the early and Hadrian engaged in a hunt.
decades of the fourth century The other pieces, removed from
AD after Constantine had the Forum of Trajan, show
consolidated his power Dacian prisoners captured in
as sole emperor. The arch Trajan’s war there.
demonstrates the deterioration
THE PALATINE HILL
of the arts during the late stages
of the Roman Empire – most Via di San Gregorio 30 T 06.3996.7700. Daily
of the sculptural decoration 8.30am–1hr before sunset. €12 joint ticket
here had to be removed from with Colosseum and Roman Forum. MAP P.68–69,
other monuments, and the POCKET MAP G7
builders were probably quite Rising above the Roman
ignorant of the significance of Forum, the Palatine is
the pieces they borrowed: the supposedly where the city

72
of Rome was founded, and the Casa di Livia, originally
is home to some of its most believed to have been the
ancient remnants. In a way it’s residence of Livia. West of here,
a more pleasant site to tour the newly restored Casa di
than the Forum, a good place Augusto (Mon, Wed, Sat & Sun

THE FORUM, COLOSSEUM AND AROUND

to have a picnic and relax after 11am–6pm) holds beautiful
the rigours of the ruins below. frescoes in striking shades of
In the days of the Republic, blue, red and ochre, dating back
the Palatine was the most to 30 BC and considered to be
desirable address in Rome (the among the most magnificent
word “palace” is derived from examples of Roman wall
Palatine), and the big names paintings anywhere; even the
continued to colonize it during builders’ ancient graffiti have
the mperial era, trying to outdo been meticulously preserved.
each other with ever larger and Further south, steps take
more magnificent dwellings. you to the Farnese Gardens,
Following the main path up among the first botanical
from the Forum, the Domus gardens in Europe, laid out in
Flavia was one of the most the mid-sixteenth century and
splendid residences, although now a tidily planted, shady
it’s now almost completely retreat from the exposed heat
ruined. To the left, the top of the ruins. The terrace at the
level of the gargantuan Domus opposite end looks down on
Augustana spreads to the the excavations of an Iron Age
far brink of the hill – not village that perhaps marks the
the home of Augustus as its real centre of Rome’s ancient
name suggests, but the private beginnings.
house of any emperor. You
can look down from here on
T H E PA L AT I N E H I L L

its vast central courtyard with

fountains and wander to the
brink of the deep trench of
the Stadium, on the far side of
which the ruins of the Baths
of Septimius Severus cling to
the side of the hill, the terrace
giving good views over the
Colosseum and the churches
of the Celian Hill opposite.
Nearby, the Museo Palatino
contains a vast assortment of
statuary, pottery, terracotta
antefixes and architectural
fragments. Walking in the
opposite direction from the
Domus Flavia, steps lead down
to the Cryptoporticus, a long
passage built by Nero to link his
Domus Aurea with the Palatine,
and decorated along part of
its length with well-preserved
Roman stucco-work. You
can go either way along the
passage. A left turn leads to

73
 The Tridente, Trevi and
Quirinale
THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

The northern part of Rome’s city centre is sometimes known as

the Tridente, due to the shape of the roads leading down from
the apex of Piazza del Popolo – Via del Corso in the centre, Via
di Ripetta on the left and Via del Babuino on the right. This was
historically the artistic quarter of the capital, to which artists
and Grand Tourists would flock, in search of the colourful,
exotic city. At the top of the Spanish Steps you can turn left for
the Pincio and Villa Borghese, or right for Via Sistina and the
Quirinale district, which holds some of the city’s most compel-
ling sights, including the enormous Palazzo Barberini, home of
some of the best of Rome’s art. West of here is the Fontana di
Trevi, one of the city’s most iconic and popular sights.

PIAZZA DI SPAGNA KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE

MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP F3 Piazza di Spagna 26 W www.
Piazza di Spagna underlines keats-shelley-house.org. Mon–Fri 10am–1pm
the area’s international & 2–6pm, Sat 11am–2pm & 3–6pm, closed
credentials, taking its name Sun. €4. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP F3
from the Spanish Embassy that The English poet John Keats
has been standing here since lived and died in a house
the seventeenth century. It’s a on Piazza di Spagna in 1821
long, thin straggle of a square, and it now serves as the
almost entirely enclosed by Keats-Shelley Memorial
buildings and centring on House, an archive of
the distinctive boat-shaped English-language literary and
Fontana della Barcaccia, the historical works and a museum
last work of Bernini’s father, of manuscripts and mementos
which remembers the great relating to the Keats circle of
flood of Christmas Day 1598, the early nineteenth century –
when a barge from the Tiber namely Keats himself, Shelley
was washed up on the slopes of
K E AT S - S H E L L E Y H O U S E

Pincio Hill close by. The square

itself is fringed by high-end
clothes and jewellery shops
and normally thronged with
tourists, but for all that it is
one of the city’s most appealing
open spaces and a fitting
prelude to a spot of designer
shopping on Via Condotti.

74
T H E S PA N I S H S T E P S

THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

and Mary Shelley, and Byron house, De Chirico’s bedroom is
(who at one time lived across left with his books and rather
the square). Keats came to uncomfortable-looking single
Rome to recover his health bed, while down the hall, the
but spent months in pain here artist’s studio, lit by a skylight
before he finally died, at the in the terrace above, has his
age of just 25, confined to the brushes and canvases.
house with his artist friend
Joseph Severn. Among many THE SPANISH STEPS
bits of manuscript, letters and MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP F3
the like, you can see the poet’s The Spanish Steps sweep down
death mask, stored in the room in a cascade of balustrades
where he died. and balconies, the hangout
of young hopefuls waiting to
CASA DI CHIRICO
be chosen as artists’ models
Piazza di Spagna 31 T 06.679.6546. Tues–Sat during the nineteenth century,
& 1st Sun of the month 10am–1pm, tours and nowadays not much
every 45min, only by appointment; €7. MAP changed in their role as a venue
P.76–77, POCKET MAP F3 for international posing and
Almost next door to the flirting late into the summer
Keats-Shelley House, nights. The Steps, like the
the fourth-floor Casa di square, could in fact just as
Chirico was the home of the easily be known as the “French
Greek-Italian artist Giorgio de Steps” because of the French
Chirico for thirty years until church of Trinità dei Monti
his death in 1978. It’s now a they lead up to, and because it
small museum that gives a was largely a French initiative
glimpse into how De Chirico to build them. After a few
lived, and has a great many of decades of haggling over the
his paintings on display: works plans, they were finally laid in
from his classic surrealist 1725, to a design by Francesco
period, and portraits of himself de Sanctis, and they now
and his wife, who modelled for form one of the city’s most
him. Upstairs, in keeping with distinctive and deliberately
the untouched nature of the showy attractions.

75
 RESTAURANTS CAFÉS & SNACKS CLUBS
Antica Birreria Peroni 23 Museo-Atelier Canova-Tadolini 8 Gilda 2
Babette 3 Il Gelato di San Crispino 21 Gregory’s 1
Beltramme 15 Da Michele 24
Cantina Cantarini 11 Punturi 12
Il Chianti 22
Ciampini 9 VIA GIULIA
THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

DI V

VIA DI VILLA
Colline Emiliane 20 IL

LA
Al Forno della Soffitta 6 BARS

G IUL
‘Gusto 10 Café Friends 7

IA
Otello Alla Concordia 13 Canova 1
Palatium 19 L’Enoteca Antica 14
Piccolo Abruzzo 4 Lowenhaus 5

A
Alla Rampa 17 Rosati 2

NIC
NO
Recafé 16 Shaki 18 VIA

CA
LE

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VIAL DE
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PIE
FO IOR AR
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Carlo LLO L

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VIA DI VIL L A S Museo CIE

VIA
WA AG
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FLAMINIO GIO Bilotti DIA
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Santa Maria Pincio LE

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del Popolo Gardens

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Villa Borghese
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Mausoleum RROZ Keats-Shelley Memorial House

LE CA
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MONTECITORIO Column of VIA DE VIC. DEI MO E D
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VIA D

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ERVA

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sopra Minerva Ignazio EI SAN QUIRINALE HILL

VIA D Colonna
Pantheon
NO
O

76
 Tridente, Trevi & Quirinale
N

I
MID
VIA

IRA
PIE
TR ACCOMMODATION

EP
OR

DU
AIM Aleph 11
ON

LE
DI Dei Borgognoni 19

L
DE
VIA
LE

LE
Casa Montani 1

THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

VIA DE

VIA
LE ID
VIA
LE
DE
ID
AIN
I
Casa Howard 16/17
UE
DE
LL’ M AS
Condotti 7
UC C Daphne
CE HE
R 14/20
VIA

LL ON
IER Eva’s Rooms 18
LE

A I Galleria
DE

Borghese Hassler 8
IC

ZI
AV

AZ Homs 15
AL

UP
LI

P
EI Hotel Art 3
MA

ED
RIN

L D’Inghilterra 12
VIA
I

VIA
Modigliani 13
ISO Il Palazzetto 5
ZI NZ
PA
Z O Piazza di Spagna 6
VIA

PU
I Plaza 10
LE

DE
DE

VIA VELLETRI
LE Portrait Suites 9
IC

VIA
NA

VIA DI SANTA TERESA

AV

La Residenza 4
AL

CIA
L

VIA PO
IM

De Russie 2
P IN
VIA G.
AR
INI

Villa Spalletti Trivelli 21

VIA
SE

PUCCIN
HE

VIALE
RG

GOET
HE
BO

PIAZZA
EO
US

FIUME
EM

VIA PIAV
L
VIA

VIA CAMPANIA
LIA GNA
VIA

TA ARDE
VIA S
D’I
L

E
UCA
VIA A

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IA
CO R S ICILIA
VIA RO

VIA S BR
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VIA P

IA
BRU

LA
CA
VIA PIEM

UG
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MAGNA

V IA

VIA CAMPANIA
ZI

RTO GNA
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TO ARDE
O VIA S I RIO
ONTE

AGN A
VIA N

ELIS
VIA

OMP VIA B
ONC
TOS

VIA B
VIA M

ERVA

ILIA
VIA

IC
VIA S
CAN
VIA E
NA

A
VIA

DORN
A RCH
CIA

A
VIA C
A
V
MILIA
PIN

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PIAZZA
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COL

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ORI
VIA

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VIA

I
LINA

MB A AGN VIA SER

OMP
OV

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VIA L ONC
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VIA

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VIA PIEM

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IN

LL

ALLU RE
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VIA S
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Embassy
MB
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VIA
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A

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VIA
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VI A
77
 VIEW FROM PINCIO GARDENS
THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

TRINITÀ DEI MONTI THE PINCIO GARDENS

Piazza della Trinità dei Monti. Daily 9am– MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP E2
noon & 4–7pm. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP F3 The terrace and gardens of
Crowning the Spanish Steps, the Pincio, a short walk from
Trinità dei Monti is a largely the top of the Spanish Steps,
sixteenth-century church were laid out by Valadier in
designed by Carlo Maderno the early nineteenth century.
and paid for by the French. Fringed with dilapidated busts
Its rose-coloured Baroque of classical and Italian heroes,
facade overlooks the rest of they give fine views over the
Rome from its hilltop site, roofs, domes and TV antennae
and it’s worth clambering up of central Rome, right across
just for the views. While here to St Peter’s and the Janiculum
you may as well pop your Hill. The view is the main
head around the door for a event here, but there are also
couple of impressive works by plenty of shady benches if you
Daniele da Volterra, notably fancy a break, and the quirky
a soft, beautifully composed nineteenth-century water clock
fresco of the Assumption in at the back is worth a look. You
the third chapel on the right, can also hire bikes, rollerblades
whose array of finely realized and odd little four-wheel
figures includes a portrait carriages for getting around the
of his teacher Michelangelo, gardens and the adjacent Villa
and a superb, ingeniously Borghese (see p.132).
composed Deposition across
the nave. The French Baroque PIAZZA DEL POPOLO
painter, Poussin, considered MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP E2
the latter – which was probably The oval-shaped expanse
painted from a series of of Piazza del Popolo is a
cartoons by Michelangelo dignified meeting of roads laid
(he's the greybeard on the out in 1538 by Pope Paul III to
right) – as the world’s third make an impressive entrance
greatest painting (Raphael’s to the city; it owes its present
Transfiguration was, he symmetry to Valadier, who
thought, the best). added the central fountain in

78
1814. The monumental Porta VIA DEL BABUINO
del Popolo went up in 1655 MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP E3–F3
and was the work of Bernini; Leading south from Piazza
the Chigi family symbol of his del Popolo to the Piazza di
patron, Alexander VII – a heap Spagna, Via del Babuino and

THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

of hills surmounted by a star – the narrow Via Margutta –
can clearly be seen above the where the film-maker Federico
main gateway. During summer, Fellini once lived – was, in the
the steps around the obelisk 1960s, the core of a thriving
and fountain, and the cafés art community and home to
on either side of the square, the city’s best galleries and
are popular hangouts. But the a fair number of its artists.
square’s real attraction is the High rents forced out all but
unbroken view it gives all the the most successful, and the
way back down Via del Corso neighbourhood now supports
to the central columns of the a prosperous trade in antiques
Vittorio Emanuele Monument. and designer fashions. Via
If you get to choose your first del Babuino – literally “Street
view of the centre of Rome, of the Baboon” – derives
make it this one. its name from the statue of
Silenus that reclines outside
SANTA MARIA DEL POPOLO the Tadolini studio about
Piazza del Popolo. Mon–Sat 7.30am–noon & halfway down on the right. In
4–7pm, Sun 8am–12.45pm & 4.30–7.45pm. ancient times the wall behind
MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP E2 was a focus for satirical graffiti,
Santa Maria del Popolo holds although it is now coated with
some of the best Renaissance graffiti-proof paint. Inside the
art of any Roman church, with studio, the Museo-Atelier
frescoes by Pinturicchio in the Canova-Tadolini (see p.86) is
first chapel of the south aisle, a café-restaurant, but a highly
and fine sculpture and mosaics original one, littered with
in the Raphael-designed the sculptural work of four
Chigi chapel (second on the generations of the Tadolini
left). Designed for the banker family.
Agostino Chigi in 1516, the
VIA DEL BABUINO

chapel was not finished until

the seventeenth century
and most of the work was
undertaken by other artists:
Michelangelo’s protégé,
Sebastiano del Piombo, was
responsible for the altarpiece,
and two of the sculptures in
the corner niches, of Daniel
and Habakkuk, are by Bernini.
The church’s star attractions
are perhaps the two pictures
by Caravaggio in the left-hand
chapel of the north transept:
the Conversion of St Paul and
the Crucifixion of St Peter,
whose realism was considered
extremely risqué in their time.

79
 CASA DI GOETHE Mausoleum of Augustus is the
burial place of the emperor and
Via del Corso 18 T 06.3265.0412, W www. his family, though these days it’s
casadigoethe.it; Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. €4. not much more than a peaceful
MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP E3 ring of cypresses, circled by
A short way down Via del paths, flowering shrubs and
THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

Corso from Piazza del Popolo, the debris of tramps. On the

the Casa di Goethe is a small far side of the square, the
and genuinely engaging Ara Pacis Augustae or “Altar
museum, housed in the of Augustan Peace” is now
home the writer occupied enclosed in a purpose-built
for two years when travelling structure designed by the New
in Italy. He wrote much of York-based architect Richard
his classic travelogue Italian Meier. A marble block enclosed
Journey here – indeed, each by sculpted walls, the altar
room is decorated with a was built in 13 BC, probably
quote from the book – and to celebrate Augustus’ victory
the house has been restored over Spain and Gaul and the
as a modern exhibition space peace it heralded. Much of it
and holds books, letters, had been dug up piecemeal
prints and drawings, plus a over the years, but the bulk
reconstruction of his study in was uncovered in the middle of
Vienna. Among the objects the last century. It is a superb
on display are Piranesi prints example of imperial Roman
of public spaces in Rome, sculpture, with a frieze on one
watercolours by Goethe himself side depicting the imperial
and drawings by the German family at the height of its
artist Tischbein, with whom he power. It shows Augustus, his
shared the premises. great general Marcus Agrippa
and Augustus’ wife Livia,
ARA PACIS AUGUSTAE followed by a victory procession
Piazza del Augusta Imperatore. Tues–Sun containing her son (and
9am–7pm; €8, audio guide €3.50. MAP P.76–77, Augustus’ eventual successor)
POCKET MAP E3 Tiberius and niece Antonia and
Forming the central core of the her husband, Drusus, among
largely modern square of Piazza others, while on the opposite
del Augusta Imperatore, just side, the veiled figure is believed
off Via del Corso, the massive to be Julia, Augustus’ daughter.
A R A PA C I S A U G U S TA E

80
T I M E E L E VATO R

THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

FONTANA DI TREVI 45min virtual tour of three
MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP G14 thousand years of Roman
One of Rome’s more surprising history; one way of priming
sights, the Fontana di Trevi is the kids for the sights they will
a huge, Baroque gush of water be seeing, though it probably
over statues and rocks built onto wouldn’t suit toddlers. Shows
the backside of a Renaissance every 30min.
palace. There was a Trevi
fountain, designed by Alberti, GALLERIA COLONNA
around the corner in Via dei Via della Pilotta 17 T 06.678.4350, W www.
Crociferi, a smaller, more galleriacolonna.it. Sat 9am–1pm, closed Aug;
modest affair by all accounts, €7; free guided tours in English at 11.45am. MAP
but Urban VIII decided to P.76–77, POCKET MAP G15
upgrade it in line with his other The Galleria Colonna is
grandiose schemes of the time well worth a visit if you can
and employed Bernini, among time it right, not least for its
others, to design an alternative chandelier-decked Great Hall,
nearby. Work didn’t begin until which glorifies the achievements
1732, when Niccolò Salvi won of the nobleman Marcantonio
a competition held by Clement Colonna – notably his great
XII to design the fountain, and victory against the Turks at the
even then it took thirty years Battle of Lepanto in 1589. Of
to finish the project. It’s now, of the paintings, highlights include
course, the place you come to two lascivious depictions of
chuck in a coin if you want to Venus and Cupid, facing each
guarantee your return to Rome, other across the room, by
though you might remember Bronzino and Ghirlandaio, a
Anita Ekberg throwing herself group of landscapes by Dughet
into it in La Dolce Vita (you’re (Poussin’s brother-in-law),
not encouraged to do the same). Carracci’s early and unusually
spontaneous Bean Eater,
TIME ELEVATOR
a Portrait of a Venetian
Via dei Santissimi Apostoli 20 T 06.977.46243, Gentleman, caught in supremely
W www.time-elevator.it. Daily 10.30am–7.30pm. confident pose by Veronese,
€12, 5–12 years €9. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP F15 and a Tintoretto portrait of
Flight-simulator seats and an old man. All told, a great
headphones (English audio small collection, displayed in a
available) set the stage for a sumptuous environment.

81
 PA L A Z Z O B A R B E R I N I
THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

PIAZZA BARBERINI
particularly distinguished,
MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP F4–G4 it is worth a visit for its
At the top end of the busy ghoulish Capuchin cemetery,
shopping street of Via del erected in 1793 and home to
Tritone, Piazza Barberini the bones of 4000 monks, set
is centred around Bernini’s into the walls of a series of
Fontana del Tritone, whose chapels. The bones appear in
god of the sea gushes a high abstract or Christian patterns
jet of water from a conch shell. or as fully clothed skeletons,
Traditionally, this was the their faces peering out of
Barberini family’s quarter of their cowls in various twisted
the city, and works by Bernini expressions of agony – one of
in their honour – they were the more macabre and bizarre
the sculptor’s greatest patrons sights of Rome.
– are thick on the ground
around here. He finished the VIA VENETO
Tritone fountain in 1644, going MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP G3
on shortly after to design the The pricey bars and restaurants
Fontana delle Api (Fountain of lining Via Veneto were once
the Bees) across the road at the the haunt of Rome’s beautiful
bottom end of Via Veneto – a people, made famous by
smaller, quirkier work, with Fellini’s 1960 film La Dolce
a broad scallop shell studded Vita. But they left a long time
with bees, the symbol of the ago, and the street, despite
Barberinis. being home to some of the
city’s fanciest hotels, has
SANTA MARIA DELLA
never quite recovered the
CONCEZIONE
cachet it had in the Sixties
Via Veneto 27. Daily 9am–noon & 3–6pm. and Seventies. Nonetheless,
Donation expected for the cemetery. MAP its pretty tree-lined aspect,
P.76–77, POCKET MAP G3 pavement cafés, swanky stores
The church of Santa Maria and uniformed hotel bellmen
della Concezione was lend it an upmarket European
another Barberini-sponsored air that is quite unlike
project, and although not anywhere else in the city.

82
PALAZZO BARBERINI into a tiny and awkwardly
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13. Tues–Sun shaped site that apparently
8.30am–7.30pm. €6; apartment tours every covers roughly the same
45min. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP G4 surface area as one of the main
The Palazzo Barberini is home piers of St Peter’s. Tucked in

THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

to the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte beside the church, the cloister
Antica – a rich patchwork of is also squeezed into a tight but
mainly Italian art from the early elegant oblong, topped with a
Renaissance to the late Baroque charming balustrade.
period. It’s a splendid collection,
highlighted by works by Titian, SANT’ANDREA AL QUIRINALE
El Greco and Caravaggio. But Via del Quirinale. Mon–Sat 8.30am–noon
perhaps the most impressive & 3.30–7pm, Sun 9am–noon & 4–7pm. MAP
feature of the gallery is the P.76–77, POCKET MAP G4
building itself, worked on at A flamboyant building that
different times by the most Bernini planned as a kind of
favoured architects of the flat oval shape to fit into its
day – Bernini, Borromini and wide but shallow site. Like San
Maderno. The first-floor Gran Carlo up the road, it’s unusual
Salone is dominated by Pietro and ingenious inside, its wide,
da Cortona’s manic fresco of The elliptical nave cleverly made
Triumph of Divine Providence, into a grand space despite its
an exuberant Baroque work relatively small size. For a €1 fee
which almost crawls down you can also visit the sacristy,
the walls to meet you. Of whose frescoes are similarly
the paintings, be sure to see artful, with cherubs pulling
Caravaggio’s Judith Beheading aside painted drapery to let
Holofernes; Fra’ Filippo Lippi’s in light from mock windows,
warmly maternal Madonna and and the upstairs rooms of St
Child; and Raphael’s beguiling Stanislaus Kostka, where the
Fornarina – a painting of the Polish saint lived (and died)
daughter of a Trasteveran in 1568. Paintings by Andrea
baker thought to have been Pozzo illustrate the life of the
his mistress (Raphael’s name saint and culminate in a chapel
appears clearly on the woman’s that focuses on a disturbingly
bracelet). Look out also for lifelike painted statue of
Bronzino’s rendering of the Stanislaus on his deathbed.
marvellously erect Stefano
FO N TA N A D E L T R I T O N E I N P I A Z Z A B A R B E R I N I

Colonna and a portrait of Henry

VIII by Hans Holbein.

SAN CARLO ALLE QUATTRO

FONTANE
Via del Quirinale 23. Mon–Sat 10am–1pm
& 3–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–1pm. MAP P.76–77,
POCKET MAP G4
The church of San Carlo alle
Quattro Fontane – next door
to the four fountains that give
it its name – was Borromini’s
first real design commission. In
it he displays all the ingenuity
he later became known for,
cramming the church elegantly
83
 E C S TA S Y O F S T T H E R E S A O F AV I L A
PALAZZO DEL QUIRINALE
Piazza del Quirinale W www.quirinale.it. Sun
8.30am–noon. €5. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP F4
The sixteenth-century Palazzo
del Quirinale was the official
THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

summer residence of the

popes until Unification, when
it became the royal palace.
It’s now the home of Italy’s
president. The main feature of
the piazza outside is the huge
statue of the Dioscuri, aka
Castor and Pollux: massive
five-metre-tall Roman copies
of classical Greek statues,
brought here by Pope Sixtus
V in the early sixteenth
century. Inside, the palace is
well worth a visit if you’re in
town on a Sunday, with some
spectacular rooms glorifying
Pope Paul V among others,
and a fragment of Melozzo da SANTA MARIA DELLA VITTORIA
Forlì’s fifteenth-century fresco Via XX Settembre 17. Daily 7am–noon &
of Christ, painted for the apse 3.30–7pm. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP G3
of Santi Apostoli (the rest is in Santa Maria della Vittoria’s
the Vatican; see p.150). best-known feature is
Bernini’s sculpture the Ecstasy
VIA XX SETTEMBRE of St Theresa of Avila, the
MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP G4–H3 centrepiece of the sepulchral
Via XX Settembre spears out chapel of Cardinal Cornaro. St
to the Aurelian Wall from Theresa is one of the Catholic
Via del Quirinale and was the Church’s most enduring
route by which troops entered mystics, and Bernini’s
the city on September 20, sculpture records the moment
1870 – the place where they when, in 1537, she had a vision
breached the wall is marked of an angel piercing her heart
with a column. It’s not Rome’s with a dart. It’s a very Baroque
most appealing thoroughfare piece of work in the most
by any means, flanked by populist sense – not only is
the deliberately faceless the event quite literally staged,
bureaucracies of the national but St Theresa’s ecstasy verges
government. However, halfway on the worldly as she lies
down, the Fontana dell’Acqua back in groaning submission
Felice is worth a look: it focuses beneath a mass of dishevelled
on a massive, bearded figure garments and drapery. The
of Moses playfully fronted by Cornaro cardinals are depicted
four basking lions, and marks murmuring and nudging
the end of the Acqua Felice each other as they watch the
aqueduct. spectacle from theatre boxes.

84
 ‘GUSTO
Shops Piazza Augusto Imperatore 7. MAP P.76–77,
ANGLO-AMERICAN BOOKSHOP POCKET MAP E3
Everything for the
Via della Vite 102. Mon 3.30–7.30pm, Tues– aspirant gourmet: wines,

THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

Sat 9am–1pm & 3.30–7.30pm. MAP P.76–77, decanters, glasses and all
POCKET MAP F13 the top-of-the-line kitchen
One of the best selections of gadgets you could ever hope to
new English books in Rome, find. Also a large selection of
especially good on history and cookbooks in English.
academic books.
LION BOOKSHOP
BUCCONE
Via dei Greci 33. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP E3
Via di Ripetta 19. Mon–Thurs 9am–8.30pm, Veteran English bookshop with
Fri & Sat 9am–midnight, Sun 10am–5pm. MAP a great selection and helpful
P.76–77, POCKET MAP E3 service.
The centre’s best wine shop,
with a large selection of wines, PINEIDER
spirits and especially grappa.
Via Due Macelli 68. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP G13
FABRIANO This exclusive store has been
selling beautiful hand-made
Via del Babuino 172. Mon–Sat 10am–7.30pm. stationery, briefcases and bags
MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP E3 since 1774.
Tridente branch of this
chain, specializing in lovely OLD SOCCER
contemporary stationery,
Via di Ripetta 30. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP E3
wallets and bags.
Old-fashioned Italian football
FERRARI STORE shirts – ironically enough,
made in England.
Via Tomacelli 147/152. Daily 10am–7.30pm.
MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP E13 TAD
What better souvenir to take
Via del Babuino 155a. Mon noon–8pm, Tues–
back than an accessory from
Sat 10am–8pm. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP E3
this Italian motor-racing icon?
Stylish department store
FRATELLI ALINARI with clothes, perfume and
cosmetics, flowers and home
Via Alibert 16a. Mon–Sat 3.30–7.30pm. MAP furnishings, as well as an
P.76–77, POCKET MAP F3 ultra-cool café.
If you want to know what
Rome’s piazzas looked like
TA D

before McDonald’s came to

town, come here for a fine
selection of black-and-white
photographs of Rome.

GALLERIA ALBERTO SORDI

Via del Corso. Daily 10am–10pm. MAP P.76–77,
POCKET MAP F14
This nineteenth-century
shopping arcade is home to
some great shops and provides
a cool escape from the Via del
Corso crowds on hot days.

85
 loss is very much the Trevi
Cafés and area’s gain. Under its changed
name it still does kosher pizza
snacks to go – the house speciality
is pizza with fresh anchovies
and indivia (endives) – roast
THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

MUSEO-ATELIER CANOVA-
TADOLINI chicken and supplì (fried rice
balls).
Via del Babuino 150a. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP E3
It’s a bit odd eating here PUNTURI
amongst the grand sculptures
Via Flavia 48 T 06.481.8225. MAP P.76–77,
of this café-cum-museum,
POCKET MAP H3
and certainly not cheap.
One of the city's most historic
But this is one of the few
gastronomie, with superb pizza
places to sit down along this
by the slice and a handful of
busy street, serving decent
hot dishes – lasagne, arancini –
sandwiches, salads and simple
at lunch time, and a couple of
pasta dishes. There are a few
tables out the back to eat at.
outside tables,too, to watch the
designer bags bustle by.
Restaurants
I L G E L ATO D I S A N C R I S P I N O

ANTICA BIRRERIA PERONI

Via San Marcello 19 T 06.679.5310. Mon–Sat
noon–midnight. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP F14
Big, bustling Trevi district
birreria with an excellent
menu of simple food that’s
meant to soak up lots of beer.
There are the usual starters
and pasta dishes, plus a good
selection of meat dishes,
scamorza cheese and wurstel,
served in an old wood-panelled
turn-of-the-century restaurant
full of photos of old Rome.
IL GELATO DI SAN CRISPINO
Via della Panetteria 42. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP G14 BABETTE
Considered by many to be Via Margutta 1–3 T 06.321.1559. Closed Mon
the best ice cream in Rome. lunch. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP E2
Wonderful flavours – all Yes, the name is derived
natural – will make the other from the Danish foodie film,
gelato you’ve known pale by Babette’s Feast, but food here is
comparison. Italian with a few twists rather
than Danish, with a great-value
DA MICHELE lunch buffet on weekdays (€15)
Via dell’ Umilta 31. Sun & Mon–Thurs and a lovely courtyard to eat it
9am–7.30pm, Fri 9am–2pm, closed Sat. MAP in. Dinner is good value too.
P.76–77,POCKET MAP F15
This classic Roman snack BELTRAMME
joint used to be in the Jewish Via della Croce 39. No phone. Daily noon–3pm
Ghetto (when it was known as & 7–11pm. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP E3
Zi Fenizia) but was replaced by Originally this place sold only
a burger bar, and the Ghetto’s wine, by the fiasco or flask.
86
Now, a few blocks from the POCKET MAP F4
Spanish Steps, it is a full-blown Just down from Piazza
restaurant and just about Barberini, on a quiet backstreet
always packed. But if you want parallel to Via del Tritone, not
authentic Roman food and far from the Fontana di Trevi,
atmosphere at affordable prices this cosy family-run restaurant

THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

– €10 for a primo, €15 for a serves excellent Emilian food at
secondo – then this is the place. moderate prices.
Service can be a bit slow. No
credit cards. AL FORNO DELLA SOFFITTA
Via Piave 62 T 06.4201.1164. Mon–Fri
CANTINA CANTARINI noon–midnight, Sat & Sun 7pm–midnight.
Piazza Sallustio 12 T 06.485.528. Mon–Sat MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP H2
noon–3pm & 7.30–11pm. MAP P.76–77, POCKET The main event in this big,
MAP H3 bustling restaurant is pizza,
Very simple, very popular Neapolitan-style, though you
restaurant serving rustic food can also get fritti, pasta and
from both the Marche region grilled meat dishes. Good for
and Rome. Excellent value. lunch and dinner.

IL CHIANTI ‘GUSTO
Via del Lavatore 81/82a T 06.678.7550. Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9 T 06.322.6273.
Closed Sun. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP G14 Daily 12.30–3pm & 7.30pm–2am. MAP P.76–77,
Just metres from the Fontana POCKET MAP E3
di Trevi, this Tuscan specialist This slick, moderately priced
is a find in a part of town establishment has grown to be
not generally known for its Rome’s most successful culinary
good-value food and drink. empire, and the food it serves
Good spreads of Tuscan cheese at its original location is very
and cold meats, a selection of good. Choose from the more
meat dishes, and the usual pasta relaxed downstairs brasserie or
dishes and pizzas. You can sit the posher upstairs restaurant.
outside in summer if you can
ANTICA BIRRERIA PERONI

bear the travelling musicians

who congregate to entertain the
tourists.

CIAMPINI
Viale Trinità dei Monti T 06.678.5678. MAP
P.76–77, POCKET MAP F3
The best branch of this
city-wide chain, with great
views from its garden terrace,
where you watch the resident
turtles in the fountain while
choosing from a good selection
of pasta dishes – and meat
and fish mains from the grill –
chicken, swordfish and the like.

COLLINE EMILIANE
Via degli Avignonesi 22 T 06.481.7538.
Tues–Sat 12.45–2.45pm & 7.30–10.45pm, Sun
12.45–2.45pm only; closed Mon. MAP P.76–77,
87
 You can just settle for a plate
of salami or cheese for €5–7,
or go for dishes like tonnarelli
cacio e pepe or mains like rabbit
or sausage from the hills to the
north and south of the city.
THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

PICCOLO ABRUZZO
Via Sicilia 237 T 06.428.0176. Daily noon–4pm
& 7pm–1.30am. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP H2
A five-minute stroll up the
unprepossessing Via Sicilia
from Via Veneto, this is a great
alternative to the glitzy, mob-run
places on the Dolce Vita street.
No menu, just a seemingly
endless parade of Abruzzese
and other goodies plonked on
to your table at regular intervals
– all for around €35 a head. Be
L'ENOTECA ANTICA

sure to come hungry.

ALLA RAMPA
Piazza Mignanelli 18 T 06.678.2621. Mon–
Sat noon–3pm, 7.30pm–10.30pm. MAP P.76–77,
OTELLO ALLA CONCORDIA POCKET MAP G13
Via della Croce 81 T 06.679.1178. Mon–Sat An unashamedly touristy
12.30–3pm & 7.30–11pm. MAP P.76–77, POCKET joint, but with perhaps the best
MAP E3 antipasti buffet in town – a snip
This place used to be one of for €10 – as well as excellent
Fellini’s favourites – he lived just service and pretty decent food.
The outside terrace, just off
a few blocks away on Via
Piazza di Spagna is large and
Margutta – and it remains an undeniably appealing. No
elegant yet affordable choice in credit cards.
the heart of Rome. A complete
offering of Roman and Italian RECAFÉ
dishes, but ask for spaghetti Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9 T 06.6813.4730.
Otello for a taste of tradition – a Daily 12.45pm–1am. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP E13
delicious combination of fresh The entrance on Via del Corso is
tomatoes and basil with garlic. a Neapolitan café, while on the
Piazza Augusta Imperatore side
PALATIUM you can enjoy proper Neapolitan
Via Frattina 94 T 06.6920.2132. Mon–Sat pizzas, good pasta and salad
11am–11pm. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP F13 dishes and excellent grilled
Cool and sleek, this secondi for moderate prices – €9
Spanish Steps-area wine or so for a primo, €12–18 for
bar-cum-restaurant celebrates a secondo. Neapolitan sweets
the wine and food of the Lazio and fritti too. The ambience is
region around Rome, with a deliberately chic and the large
short menu of local specialities outside terrace always has a buzz
and a long list of Lazio wines. about it.

88
 SHAKI
Bars Via Maria de’ Fiori 29. Daily
CAFÉ FRIENDS 11am–1pm. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP F13
Wine bar of the nearby
Via Piave 71. Daily 7.30am–2am. MAP P.76–77, gourmet store, serving light

THE TRIDENTE, TREVI AND QUIRINALE

POCKET MAP H2 lunches and snacks at outside
Bright, modern café fashioned tables, a few short steps from
out of a stretch of Roman Piazza di Spagna. Good wine,
wall. Good for breakfast and and very handy, if a little too
lunch, but also cocktails in the self-consciously chic.
evening, when there's a decent
buffet early on.

CANOVA
Clubs
GILDA
Piazza del Popolo 16. Daily 8am–midnight. MAP
P.76–77, POCKET MAP E2 Via Mario de’ Fiori 97 T 06.678.4838, W www.
The more staid alternative to gildabar.it. Metro A Spagna or bus #85 or #850
Rosati across the square, but an from Metro B Colosseo, #95 or #116 from Metro
equally pleasant place to watch A Barberini, or #119 from Piazza Venezia. Thurs–
the world go by, sip a cocktail, eat Sun 11pm–5am. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP F13
an ice cream or even a full meal. A few blocks from the Spanish
Steps, this slick, stylish and
L’ENOTECA ANTICA expensive club is the focus for the
Via della Croce 76b. Daily 11am–1am. MAP city’s minor celebs and wannabes,
P.76–77, POCKET MAP E3
mainly of the middle-aged
An old Spanish Steps-area wine variety. Dress smart.
bar with a cosy interior bar GREGORY’S
and a selection of hot and cold
dishes, including soups and Via Gregoriana 54d T 06.679.6386. Tues–Sun
attractive desserts. Intriguing 8pm–3am. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP G13
trompe l’oeil decorations inside, Just up the Spanish Steps
majolica-topped tables outside. and to the right, this elegant
nightspot pulls in the crowds
LOWENHAUS with its live jazz, improvised
Via della Fontanella 16. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP E2 by Roman and international
Just off Piazza del Popolo, this musicians.
bar serves big German beers
R O S AT I

and the sausage and other

snacks to go with them in
an authentic bierkeller-style
environment. Full meals
too, and outside seating in
summer.

ROSATI
Piazza del Popolo 5. Daily 8am–midnight. MAP
P.76–77, POCKET MAP E2
This was the bar that hosted
left-wingers, bohemians and
writers in years gone by,
though now it’s cocktails and
food that draw the crowds to
the outside terrace.
89
 The Esquiline, Monti and
Termini
THE ESQUILINE, MONTI AND TERMINI

Monti is named after the two hills it encompasses: the

Esquiline, the city’s highest and largest, once ancient Rome’s
most fashionable residential quarter; and the Viminale, the
smallest – home to the Interior Ministry and not much else.
In recent years Monti has become increasingly gentrified, its
cobbled streets lined with cosy bars and restaurants and arty
boutiques. The area is also home to key sights like Nero’s
Domus Aurea (though this has been closed for some time) and
the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, and is close to Termini
station, the focal point of a down-at-heel area that holds much
of the city’s budget accommodation. Neighbouring San Lorenzo
is a hub of studenty nightlife, full of cool bars and restaurants.

M O S A I C S AT S A N TA P U D E N Z I A N A

90
SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE
Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore. Daily
8.30am–7pm. Museum daily 8.30am–6.30pm.
€4. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP H5
One of the city’s four

THE ESQUILINE, MONTI AND TERMINI

patriarchal basilicas, Santa
Maria Maggiore includes
one of Rome’s best-preserved
Byzantine interiors. It was
originally built during the fifth
century after the Virgin Mary
appeared to Pope Liberius in a
dream on the night of August

S A N TA M A R I A M A G G I O R E
4, 352 AD. She told him to
erect a church in her honour
on the Esquiline Hill – the
exact spot would be marked
the next morning by newly
fallen snow outlining the plan
of the church. Despite it being Pope Pius IX, and, beneath it, a
the height of summer, Liberius reliquary that is said to contain
duly found the miraculous fragments of the crib of Christ.
blueprint and the event is It’s the mosaics of the arch
commemorated every year that really dazzle, a vivid
on August 5, when at midday representation of scenes from
Mass white rose petals are the life of Christ. The museum
showered on the congregation underneath the basilica sports
from the ceiling, and at night what is, even by Roman
the fire department operates standards, a wide variety of
an artificial snow machine relics, and a loggia above the
in the piazza in front of the main entrance (tours daily at
church. 9am & 1pm; book in advance
Inside, the basilica is fringed on T 06.6988.682; €3) has some
on both sides with well-kept magnificent mosaics.
mosaics, most of which date
from the time of Pope Sixtus
SANTA PUDENZIANA
III and recount incidents from Via Urbana 160. Daily 8.30am–noon & 3–6pm.
the Old Testament. The chapel MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP H5
in the right transept holds the This church was for many years
elaborate tomb of Sixtus V – believed to have been built on
another, less famous Sistine the site where St Peter lived and
hapel, decorated with frescoes worshipped and once housed
and stucco reliefs showing two relics: the chair that St
events from his reign. Outside Peter used as his throne and
is the tomb of the Bernini the table at which he said Mass,
family; opposite, the Pauline though both have long gone –
hapel is home to the tombs to the Vatican and the Lateran
of the Borghese pope, Paul V, Palace respectively. It still has
and his immediate predecessor one feature of ancient origin
Clement VIII, as well as – its superb fifth-century apse
that of Pauline Bonaparte, mosaics, fluid and beautiful
Napoleon’s sister. Between works centring on a golden
the two chapels, the confessio enthroned Christ surrounded by
contains a kneeling statue of the apostles.

91
 PIAZZA

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PIAZZA
CELIMONTANA

92
 VIA MA
VI A
DEI
VILL LINI
RESTAURANTS ACCOMMODATION
I NI VIA DEI VIL
Agata e Romeo 10 Alessandro Palace Hostel 13
RCELLO MALP

IZI
Alle Carrette 22 Alpi 2

R
AT
AP
Hang Zhou 16 Des Artistes 1

I LL
IV
IGHI

D
V. G. VIA
FAL
Monti Doc 18 Artorius 12
RIZ
I LO La Muccha Bischera 17 Duca d’Alba 16
PAT
PP
Necci dal 1924 27 Funny Palace 10

THE ESQUILINE, MONTI AND TERMINI

LA
IO
VIL O
DI LINIC
VI A POLIC Open Colonna 3 Grifo 13
E DEL
PIAZZA DELLE
CROCE ROSSA VIAL Pigneto Quarantuno 25 M&J Place 4
Pommidoro 4 Nicolas Inn 17
Primo al Pigneto 24 Palazzetto degli Artisti 18
Tram Tram 8 Radisson Blu Es 15
VIA S

CASTRO Trattoria Monti 13 Residenza Cellini 9

APRI

AETA PRETORIO Valentino 6 Sandy 14

VIA G Suite Dreams 8
The Beehive 7
VIAL

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VIA
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VIA

Rive Gauche 15 Circolo degli Artisti 3

PA

VIA MONZAMBANO
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Micca Club 2
ST

Tearoom 9
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Il Tiaso 26 Teatro dell’Opera di Roma 1

Ai Tre Scalini 11
Trimani 1
VIA

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SHOPS
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MIL Feltrinelli International 2

CAFÉS & SNACKS
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Postersac 3
OR
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Antico Caffè del Brasile 12 Super 4

PR
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La Bottega del Caffè 19 Trimani 1

ST
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Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni Fassi 23

VIA

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93
 mistranslation of scripture, he
is depicted with satyr’s horns
instead of the “radiance of the
Lord” that Exodus tells us shone
around his head. Nonetheless
this powerful statue is so lifelike
THE ESQUILINE, MONTI AND TERMINI

that Michelangelo is alleged to

have struck its knee with his
hammer and shouted “Speak,
damn you!”
C H A I N S AT S A N P I E T R O I N V I N C O L I

SANTA PRASSEDE
Via di Santa Prassede 9a. Daily 7.30am–noon
& 4–6.30pm, opens 8am Sat & Sun. MAP 92–93,
POCKET MAP H5
The ninth-century church
of Santa Prassede occupies
an ancient site where it’s
claimed St Prassede harboured
SAN PIETRO IN VINCOLI Christians on the run from
Piazza di San Pietro in Vincoli, 4a. Daily: the Roman persecutions. She
April–Sept 8am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm; Oct– apparently collected the blood
March 8am–12.30pm & 3–6pm. MAP P.92–93, and remains of the martyrs and
POCKET MAP G5 placed them in a well where
San Pietro in Vincoli is one of she herself was later buried; a
Rome’s most delightfully plain red porphyry disc in the floor
churches. It was built to house of the nave marks the spot. The
an important relic, the two sets Byzantine mosaics are the most
of chains (vincoli) that bound striking feature, particularly
St Peter when imprisoned in those in the chapel of St Zeno,
Jerusalem and held him in the which make it glitter like a
Mammertine Prison, which jewel-encrusted box.
miraculously fused together
when they were brought into MUSEO NAZIONALE DI ARTE
contact with each other. The ORIENTALE
chains can still be seen in the Via Merulana 248 T 06.469.748. Tues, Wed &
confessio beneath the high altar, Fri 9am–2pm, Thurs, Sat & Sun 9am–7.30pm.
but most people come for the €6. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP H5
tomb of Pope Julius II at the far Housed in the imposing
end of the southern aisle. The Palazzo Brancaccio, the Museo
aisle occupied Michelangelo on Nazionale di Arte Orientale
and off for much of his career is a first-rate collection of
and was the cause of many oriental art. Italy’s connection
a dispute with Julius and his with the Far East goes back to
successors. He reluctantly gave it Marco Polo in the thirteenth
up to paint the Sistine Chapel – century, and the quality of
the only statues that he managed this collection of Islamic,
to complete are the Moses, Leah Chinese, Indian and Southeast
and Rachel, which remain here, Asian art reflects this long
and two Dying Slaves, which are relationship. Highlights include
now in the Louvre, Paris. The finds dating back to 1500 BC
figures are among the artist’s from a necropolis in Pakistan;
most captivating works, especially architectural fragments, art
Moses: because of a medieval works and jewellery from

94
Tibet, Nepal and Pakistan; a della Repubblica is a dignified
solid collection from China, semicircle of buildings that
with predictable Buddhas and used to be rather dilapidated
vases alongside curiosities such but is now – with the help of
as a large Wei-dynasty Buddha the very stylish Hotel Exedra
with two boddhisatvas. – once again resurgent. The

THE ESQUILINE, MONTI AND TERMINI

traffic roars ceaselessly around
PIAZZA VITTORIO EMANUELE II the centrepiece of the Fontana
MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP J5 delle Naiadi, with its languishing
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II nymphs and sea monsters. The
lies at the centre of a district piazza’s shape follows the outline
that became known as the of the Baths of Diocletian, the
“quartiere piemontese” when remains of which lie across the
the government located many piazza (see p.96).
of its major ministries here
PALAZZO DELLE ESPOSIZIONI
after Unification. The arcades
of the square, certainly, recall Via Nazionale 194 T 06.3996.7500, W www.
central Turin, but it’s more palazzoesposizioni.it. Tues, Thurs, Wed &
recently become the immigrant Sun 10am–8pm, Fri & Sat 10am–10.30pm.
quarter of Rome, with a heavy €12.50; joint ticket with Scuderie del
concentration of African, Asian Quirinale €18. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP G4
and Middle Eastern shops and Via Nazionale connects Piazza
restaurants. You’ll hear a dozen Venezia and the centre of town
different languages spoken as with the area around Stazione
you pass through, although the Termini and the eastern
morning market that used to districts beyond. A focus for
take place here has moved a development after Unification,
few blocks east to Via Giolitti, its overbearing buildings are
between Via Ricasoli and Via now occupied by hotels and
Lamarmora. Raucous and bland, mid-range shops. It’s
usually rammed with locals, worth strolling down as far as
this is a good place to shop for the imposing Palazzo delle
a picnic. Esposizioni, though, which
has reopened after a five-year
PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA revamp. It hosts large-scale
MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP H4 exhibitions and cultural events,
Typical of Rome’s nineteenth- and also houses a cinema, café
century regeneration, Piazza and restaurant (see p.100).
PA L A Z Z O D E L L E E S P O S I Z I O N I

95
 SANTA MARIA DEGLI ANGELI Ottagona, which contains
Piazza della Repubblica. Mon–Sat marble statues taken from
7am–6.30pm, Sun 7am–7.30pm. MAP P.92–93, the baths of Caracalla and
POCKET MAP H4 Diocletian, and two remarkable
The basilica of Santa Maria statues of a boxer and athlete
THE ESQUILINE, MONTI AND TERMINI

degli Angeli was built on the from the Quirinale Hill. It also
ruins of the Baths of Diocletian. holds underground furnaces
Designed by Michelangelo in for heating water for the baths
1563, a year before his death, and the foundations of another
it gives a good impression of building from the time of
the size and grandeur of the Diocletian.
baths complex: the crescent
shape of the facade remains BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN
from the original caldarium, Viale Enrico De Nicola 79 T 06.3996.7700.
the large transept was once Tues–Sun 9am–7.45pm. €7 joint ticket includes
the tepidarium, and eight of Palazzo Altemps, Palazzo Massimo & Crypta
its huge pink-granite pillars Balbi, valid 3 days. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP H3
are originals from the baths. Behind the church of Santa
Luigi Vanvitelli rearranged Maria degli Angeli, the huge
the interior in 1749, by and halls and courtyards of the
large imitating Michelangelo’s Baths of Diocletian have
designs. The meridian that been renovated and they now
strikes diagonally across the hold what is probably the
floor in the south transept, least interesting part of the
flanked by representations of Museo Nazionale Romano
the twelve signs of the zodiac, – the Museo delle Terme
was until 1846 the regulator di Diocleziano, the best bit
of time for Romans (now a of which is the large cloister
cannon shot fires daily at noon of the church whose sides
from the Janiculum Hill). are crammed with statuary,
funerary monuments and
THE AULA OTTAGONA fragments from all over Rome.
Via Giuseppe Romita 8 T 06.3996.7700. The galleries that wrap around
Closed for restoration at the time of writing. the cloister hold a reasonable
MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP H4 collection of pre-Roman and
The exit from the church Roman finds: terracotta statues,
leaves you behind another armour and weapons found in
remnant of the baths, the Aula Roman tombs.
S A N TA M A R I A D E G L I A N G E L I

96
PA L A Z Z O M A S S I M O A L L E T E R M E

THE ESQUILINE, MONTI AND TERMINI

PALAZZO MASSIMO ALLE TERME
of Germanicus, a marvellous
Largo di Villa Peretti 1 T 06.3996.7700. small bust of Caligula, several
Tues–Sun 9am–7.45pm. €7 joint ticket representations of Livia,
includes Palazzo Altemps, Terme di Diocleziano Antonia and Drusus and a
& Crypta Balbi, valid 3 days. MAP P.92–93, hooded statue of Augustus. On
POCKET MAP H4 the far side of the courtyard
The snazzily restored Palazzo is Greek sculpture, including
Massimo is home to one bronzes of a Hellenistic prince
of the two principal parts holding a spear and a wounded
of the Museo Nazionale pugilist at rest.
Romano (the other is in the The gallery on the first
Palazzo Altemps) – a superb floor has groupings of later
collection of Greek and Roman imperial dynasties in roughly
antiquities, second only to chronological order, starting
the Vatican’s. As one of the with the Flavian emperors and
great museums of Rome, there ending with the Severans, with
are too many highlights to the fierce-looking Caracalla
do it justice here, and there looking across past his father
is something worth seeing Septimius Severus to his
on every floor. Start at the brother Geta, whom he later
basement, which has displays murdered.
of exquisite gold jewellery The second floor, which you
from the second century can only visit on an organized
AD, and – startlingly – the tour, takes in some of the finest
mummified remains of an Roman frescoes and mosaics
8-year-old girl, along with a ever found. There is a stunning
coin collection. The ground set of frescoes from the Casa
floor is devoted to statuary of di Livia (see p.73), depicting
the early empire, including a an orchard dense with fruit
gallery with an unparalleled and flowers and patrolled by
selection of unidentified busts partridges and doves; wall
found all over Rome – amazing paintings rescued from what
pieces of portraiture, and was perhaps the riverside villa of
as vivid a representation of Julia and Agrippa; and mosaics
patrician Roman life as you’ll showing naturalistic scenes – sea
find. There are also identifiable creatures, people boating – as
faces from the so-called well as four finely crafted chariot
imperial family – a bronze drivers and their horses.
97
 TERMINI STATION
basilica, fronted by a columned
MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP H4 portico and with a lovely
Named after the nearby Baths twelfth-century cloister to
(Terme) of Diocletian, Termini its side. The original church
station is an ambitious piece of was built by Constantine
THE ESQUILINE, MONTI AND TERMINI

architecture that was completed over the site of St Lawrence’s

in 1950 and still entirely martyrdom – the saint was
dominates the streets around reputedly burned to death on a
with its low-slung, futuristic gridiron, halfway through his
lines. A huge and sleek ordeal apparently uttering the
renovation has converted part immortal words, “Turn me, I
of its cavernous ticket hall to am done on this side.” Because
retail and restaurant space. In of its proximity to Rome’s rail
front of the station, Piazza dei yards, the church was bombed
Cinquecento is a terminus for heavily during World War II,
buses and a good place to find but it has been rebuilt with
a taxi, but otherwise it and the sensitivity, and remains much
areas around are pretty much as it was originally. Inside there
low-life territory, and although are features from all periods,
not especially dangerous, not a including a Cosmati mosaic
great place to linger either. floor and thirteenth-century
pulpits. The mosaic on the
SAN LORENZO FUORI LE MURA inside of the triumphal arch
Piazzale del Verano 3. Daily: summer is a sixth-century depiction of
7.30am–12.30pm & 4–8pm; winter the founder offering his church
7.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–7pm. MAP P.92–93, to Christ. The catacombs
POCKET MAP K4 below (rarely open) are where
The student neighbourhood of St Lawrence was apparently
San Lorenzo, behind Termini, buried – a dank path leads
is home to San Lorenzo fuori to the pillars of Constantine’s
le Mura, one of the seven original structure. There’s also
great pilgrimage churches of a Romanesque cloister with a
Rome, and a typical Roman well-tended garden.
S A N LO R E N Z O F U O R I L E M U R A

98
 Shops TRIMANI
Via Goito 20 W www.trimani.com. Mon–Sat
FELTRINELLI INTERNATIONAL 9am–1.30pm & 3.30–8.30pm. MAP P.92–93,
POCKET MAP H3
Via Emanuele Orlando 84. Mon–Sat
One of the city’s best wine

THE ESQUILINE, MONTI AND TERMINI

9am–8pm, Sun 10am–1.30pm & 4–8pm. MAP
shops, Trimani has been in
P.92–93, POCKET MAP G4
business since 1876 and is still
This international branch
run by the same family. It’s
of the nationwide chain has
close to Termini if you want
an excellent stock of books
to stock up before heading off
in English, as well as in
to the airport; otherwise, they
French, German, Spanish and
can ship anywhere. There’s also
Portuguese.
a wine bar around the corner
POSTERSAC serving decent food (see p.102).
Via Vicenza 4. Mon–Fri 9.30am–1.30pm &
4.30–6.30pm. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP H4
On a nondescript street near
Cafés and
the station, this tiny shop sells
new and vintage Italian film snacks
posters. From reproductions of
classics such as La Dolce Vita
ANTICO CAFFÈ DEL BRASILE
for €6.50 to the genuine article Via dei Serpenti 23. Jan–July & Oct–Dec
for up to €100, they make great Mon–Sat 6am–8.30pm, Sun 7am–7pm, closed
souvenirs. Sun in Aug. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP G5
Reliable old Monti stand-by
SUPER

that has been selling great

coffee, snacks and cakes for
around a century, with a
handful of seats and tables at
the back should you want to
take the weight off your feet.
Light meals are also served.

LA BOTTEGA DEL CAFFÈ

Piazza Madonna dei Monti 5 T 06.474.1578.
Daily 8am–2am. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP G5
Right in the heart of Monti, this
is a good place for breakfast,
a lunchtime snack or an
early-evening drink, with tables
outside on a picturesque square.
SUPER DAGNINO
Via Leonina 42 W www.super-space.com. Galleria Esedra, Via E. Orlando 75. Daily
Mon 3.30–8pm, Tues–Sat 10.30am–2pm & 7.30am–10.30pm. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP G4
3.30–8pm. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP G5 Good for a coffee, snack or light
This trendy Monti boutique lunch, this long-established
has a bit of everything – from Sicilian bakery – ricotta-stuffed
niche fashion labels and cannoli are a speciality – is a
beauty products to quirky peaceful retreat in the Termini
homewares. area, with tables outside in this
small shopping arcade.

99
 PALAZZO DEL FREDDO DI bar, with a comprehensive wine
GIOVANNI FASSI list and nice food: cold cuts and
cheese, soups, quiches, salads
Via Principe Eugenio 65. Tues–Sat noon– and pastas, including some
midnight, Sun 10am–noon. MAP P.92–93, POCKET good veggie dishes, chalked on
MAP J6
the blackboard daily.
THE ESQUILINE, MONTI AND TERMINI

A wonderful, airy 1920s ice

cream parlour. Brilliant fruit ice LA MUCCA BISCHERA
creams and great frullati, too. Via degli Equi 56 T 06.446.9349. Mon–Fri
7.30pm–1am, Sat & Sun 1–3pm &

Restaurants 7.30pm–1am. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP K5

This cheap-and-cheerful San
Lorenzo restaurant is packed
AGATA E ROMEO
with locals every night. The
Via Carlo Alberto 45 T 06.446.6115. Mon–Fri decor is kitsch – plastic vines,
12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm; closed 3 twinkling fairy lights and
weeks Jan & Aug. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP H5 stuffed cows – but the food is
Much-lauded chef Agata good, and hearty: Tuscan steaks
Parisella takes traditional and grilled meats from about
Roman cuisine to more refined €12, and generous pizzas from
heights, in dishes such as her €6. And if you overindulge,
baccalà (salt cod) cooked five there’s a rickshaw outside to
ways. Unusually pricey for this take you back to Termini free
part of town, but a great place of charge.
for a blow-the-budget feast.
Booking essential. OPEN COLONNA
Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Milano 9a
ALLE CARRETTE
T 06.4782.2641. Tues–Sat noon–midnight, Sun
Via Madonna dei Monti 95 T 06.679.2770. Daily 12.30–3.30pm. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP G4
7.30pm–midnight. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP G5 The top floor of the Palazzo
Inexpensive large pizzeria just delle Esposizioni (see p.95) – a
up Via Cavour that normally has light-drenched modern space –
long queues for the exceptional is the domain of big-shot Italian
pizza and phenomenal desserts chef Antonello Colonna. The
they serve here. €15 weekday lunch buffet is a
hit with local office workers,
HANG ZHOU while the €28 weekend brunch
attracts more of a mixed crowd.
Via di San Martino ai Monti 33 T 06.487.2732.
Daily noon–3pm & 7–11.30pm. MAP P.92–93,
TRAM TRAM

POCKET MAP H5
Rome isn’t the best place to get
decent Chinese food, but this
old Monti favourite is a cut
above the rest. Plastered with
photos of the sociable owner,
it’s cheap too.

MONTI DOC
Via G. Lanza 93 T 06.487.2696. Mon, Sat
& Sun 7pm–1am, Tues–Fri 1–3.30pm &
7pm–1am. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP H5
Comfortable Santa Maria
Maggiore-neighbourhood wine

100
POMMIDORO
Piazza dei Sanniti T 44 06.445.2692. Mon–
Sat noon–3pm & 7.30–11pm. MAP P.92–93,
POCKET MAP K4
This family-run Roman

THE ESQUILINE, MONTI AND TERMINI

trattoria has a breezy open
veranda in summer and a

W I N E L I S T AT E N O T E C A 313
fireplace in winter, and a great
menu: try the tasty pappardelle
with a wild boar sauce, and
abbacchio allo scottadito,
perfectly grilled lamb.

TRAM TRAM
Via dei Reti 44 T 06.490.416. Tues–Sun
12.30–3pm & 7.30–11.30pm. MAP P.92–93,
Bars
POCKET MAP K5 AL VINO AL VINO
Despite the grungy location,
Via dei Serpenti 19. Mon–Thurs & Sun
this trendy, animated San
11.30am–1.30pm & 5.30pm–12.30am, Fri &
Lorenzo restaurant is a cosy
Sat 11.30am–1.30pm & 5.30pm–1.30am. MAP
spot, and serves good Pugliese
P.92–93, POCKET MAP G5
pasta dishes, seafood and
unusual salads. Reservations are Seriously good wine bar with
recommended. There’s also a bar a choice of over 500 labels,
if you want to carry on drinking many by the glass. Snacks are
after dinner. generally Sicilian specialities.

TRATTORIA MONTI BAR À BOOK

Via dei Piceni 23 T 06.9604.3014, W www.
Via di San Vito 13a T 06.446.6573. Tues–Sun
barabook.it. Tues–Sun 4pm–2am. MAP
noon–3pm & 7–11pm. MAP P.92–93, POCKET
P.92–93, POCKET MAP K5
MAP H5
A welcome addition to
Small family-run restaurant
studenty San Lorenzo, this
specializing in the cuisine of friendly bookshop and wine
the Marche region, mean- bar makes a very laid-back
ing hearty food from a short place for a drink. They also
menu. As homely and friendly organize events, from poetry
a restaurant as you could want readings to DJ sets and
– something places in this there's an aperitivo buffet
neighbourhood often aren’t. from 7.30pm.
VALENTINO LA BARRIQUE
Via del Boschetto 37 T 06.488.0643. Mon–Sat Via del Boschetto 41b T 06.4782.5953.
12.45–2.45 & 7.30–11.30pm. MAP P.92–93, Mon–Thurs 1–3pm & 7pm–1.30am, Fri & Sat
POCKET MAP G5 7pm–2am. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP G5
With only a faded Peroni sign This labyrinthine wine bar in
above the door, this trattoria on the heart of Monti is a great
one of Monti’s most atmospheric spot for an aperitivo. French
streets is easy to miss. Inside, it’s and Italian wines are the main
buzzing, with waiters zipping attraction here – champagne is a
between the closely packed tables. speciality – and platters of meats
You'll find grilled meat options, and cheeses keep pre-dinner
and a scamorza (grilled cheese) hunger pangs at bay. There’s
menu – great for vegetarians. occasional live jazz too.
101
 ENOTECA CAVOUR 313 TEAROOM
Via Cavour 313. Mon–Sat 12.30–2.45pm & Via del Boschetto 34 T 347.009.5009. Daily
7.30pm–12.30am, Sun 12.30–2.45pm & 7.30pm– 6pm–2am. MAP 92–93, POCKET MAP G5
midnight. MAP 92–93, POCKET MAP G5 This tiny, dimly lit space with
A lovely old wine bar that makes an old-world, decadent feel
THE ESQUILINE, MONTI AND TERMINI

a handy retreat after seeing the has become hugely popular

ancient sites. The interior is with the area’s discerning
cosy and wood-panelled, and trendies. It serves tea and
delicious (though not cheap) biscuits from 6pm, and there’s
snacks are served – cheese a DJ from 8pm, when its
platters, salads and the like. comfy, overstuffed sofas are
in high demand. You have
FINNEGAN to be a member to enter, but
Via Leonina 66. Mon–Fri 1pm–12.30am, Sat & membership is free.
Sun noon–12.30am. MAP 92–93, POCKET MAP G5
Decent Irish pub with live
AI TRE SCALINI
football on TV, pool, and a Via Panisperna 251 T 06.4890.7495. Mon–Fri
friendly expat crowd. There’s 12.30–11.30pm, Sat & Sun 6–12.30am. MAP
seating outside, too, on this 92–93, POCKET MAP G5
bustling Monti street. Great, easy-to-miss Monti bar,
cosy and comfortable, with a
RIVE GAUCHE great wine list but beer too if
Via dei Sabelli 43. Daily 7pm–2am. MAP 92–93, you want it, and decent food.
POCKET MAP K5
TRIMANI
The San Lorenzo district’s
Via Cernaia 37b. Mon–Sat 11.30am–3pm &
noisy, cavernous evocation of
5.30pm–12.30am. MAP 92–93, POCKET MAP H3
intellectual Left Bank Paris
Classy wine bar that’s good for
– more or less. Lots of Irish
a lunchtime tipple. You’ll spend
beer and snacks. Aperitivi with
around €18 to sample a range
buffet till 9pm.
of cheeses and cured pork, or
soup and salad, with a glass of
MICCA CLUB

wine.

Clubs &
venues
CIRCOLO DEGLI ARTISTI
Via Casilina Vecchia 42 T 06.7030.5684,
W www.circoloartisti.it. Bus #105. Tues–Thurs
9.30pm–1am, Fri & Sat 9pm–4am, Sun 7pm–
midnight; closed Aug. Admission from €5. MAP
92–93, POCKET MAP K7
Alternative live music venue,
featuring emerging talent as
well as established indie bands,
both Italian and international.
There's a vintage market every
third Sunday of the month.

102
 Pigneto
nce a gritty inner-city district, Pigneto has been gentrified in recent

O years and is now firmly on the radar of Rome’s cool set. The area has
transformed itself into one of the city’s best areas for a night out, with

THE ESQUILINE, MONTI AND TERMINI

laid-back bars and intimate restaurants, particularly around Via del Pigneto,
which is home to a morning market from Monday to Saturday and a bric-a-
brac market on the last Sunday of the month. It’s a twenty-minute taxi ride
from the centre (or tram #14 from Termini), but well worth the trek; below
are some of the area’s highlights. See Pocket map K6.
Necci dal 1924 Via Fanfulla da Lodi 68 T 06.9760.1552. Daily 8am–1am.
Pasolini shot some of his films in Pigneto, and this bar-restaurant
was apparently one of his favourite haunts. Now a trendy, buzzing spot
throughout the day, it has a lovely shady garden where you can have a
drink, snack or a full meal, with its creative dishes chalked afresh on the
blackboard each day.
Pigneto Quarantuno Via del Pigneto 41–43 T 06.7039.9483. Tues–Sun
6pm–2am, kitchen opens 8.20pm. Right in the heart of the action, on Via
del Pigneto’s pedestrianized strip, this excellent-value trattoria with outdoor
tables has a short but ever-changing menu, depending on what’s in season,
though their fantastic carbonara (€7) is always on the menu.
Primo al Pigneto Via del Pigneto 46 T 06.701.3827. Tues–Sun
noon–3pm & 8–11pm. The top Pigneto restaurant, distinguished by its
clean, contemporary interior and short menu of unfussy, seasonal dishes
made using the freshest of ingredients – the mezze maniche pasta with
amatriciana sauce is a favourite. Primi €10–13, secondi €16–28. It’s a
good idea to book for dinner.
Il Tiaso Via Ascoli Piceno 20 T 333.284.5283. Daily 6pm–2am. This relaxed
wine bar with free wi-fi has book-lined shelves and lots of wines to try by
the glass, accompanied by cheese and salami platters, as well as some
more substantial meals. There are often live acoustic sets, too – a great
place to kick off an evening out.

MICCA CLUB TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

Via Pietro Micca 7a T 06.8744.0079, W www. Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1 T 06.4816.0255,
miccaclub.com.  Manzoni. Thurs–Sat W www.operaroma.it. Box office Tues–Sat
10pm–4am, Sun 6pm–2am; closed May to 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–1.30pm. MAP 92–93, POCKET
mid-Sept. Admission free Thurs & Sun, €5–10 MAP H4
Fri & Sat. MAP 92–93, POCKET MAP K6 Nobody compares it to La
This cavernous underground Scala, but cheap tickets are a
club, with brick walls and lot easier to come by at Rome’s
plenty of cosy booths, has a opera and ballet venue – they
hugely varied programme, with start at around €20 for opera,
popular themed nights – from less for ballet. If you buy the
swing to funk to burlesque. very cheapest tickets, bring
It also hosts a vintage market some high-powered binoculars:
every Sunday from 6pm. you’ll need them in order to see
anything at all.

103
 The Celian Hill and San
Giovanni
THE CELIAN HILL AND SAN GIOVANNI

Just behind the Colosseum, the Celian Hill is the most south-
erly of Rome’s seven hills, and one of its most peaceful, home
to a handful of churches and a quiet park. Just to the south and
east, are some of Rome’s most interesting churches: triple-
layered San Clemente and nearby Quattro Coronati, and the
complex of San Giovanni in Laterano – which gives its name to
the surrounding San Giovanni district – all well worth the walk
from the Colosseum. Nearby also is the wartime headquarters
of the Nazi SS, now the home of an effective – and affecting –
commemorative museum.
VILLA CELIMONTANA SANTA MARIA IN DOMINICA
MAP P.106–107, POCKET MAP G7 Daily 8.30am–12.30pm & 4.30–7pm. MAP
Much of the Celian Hill is P.106–107, POCKET MAP H7
taken up by the park of Villa Also known as Santa Maria
Celimontana, whose shady in Navicella after the ancient
gardens make a nice spot for Roman stone boat that sits
a picnic, with lots of leafy outside, this sixth-century
walkways and grassy slopes. church is just outside
There are also pony rides and a the entrance to the Villa
playground, and outdoor jazz Celimontana, and is worth
concerts on summer evenings. visiting for the ninth-century
mosaic above the apse, which
R E A D I N G I N T H E PA R K O F V I L L A C E L I M O N TA N A

shows Paschal I, who restored

the church, kneeling at the feet
of the Virgin.

SANTO STEFANO ROTONDO

Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–5pm, Sun
9.30am–12.30pm. MAP P.106–107, POCKET MAP H7
Across Via della Navicella
from the Celian Hill proper,
this church is an ancient
structure, lit by 22 windows
– a magnificent and moody
circular space, though the
feature that really sticks in
the mind is the series of
stomach-churning frescoes
on the walls, showing various
saints being martyred in
different ways, all in graphic
and vividly restored detail.

104
S A N T I G I O VA N N I E PA O LO

THE CELIAN HILL AND SAN GIOVANNI

SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO SAN GREGORIO MAGNO
Daily 8.30am–noon & 3.30–6.30pm. MAP Daily 8.30am–12.30pm & 3–6.30pm; ring the
P.106–107, POCKET MAP G7 bell marked “portinare” to gain admission. MAP
Recognized by its colourful P.106–107, POCKET MAP G7
campanile, this church is This church looks across to
dedicated to two dignitaries the Palatine Hill opposite. St
in the court of Constantine Gregory the Great founded
who were beheaded here in the monastery that still exists,
361 AD after refusing military and was a monk here before
service. A railed-off tablet in becoming pope in 590 AD. The
mid-nave marks the shrine interior is fairly ordinary, but
where the saints were martyred the lovely Cosmati floor remains
and buried. The church is best intact, and the chapel of the saint
known today as a wedding at the end of the south aisle has a
venue. beautifully carved altar showing
scenes from St Gregory’s life,
CASE ROMANE along with his marble throne,
that actually pre-dates the saint
Clivio di Scauro. Daily 10am–1pm & 3–6pm, except
by 500 years.
Tues & Wed. €6. MAP P.106–107, POCKET MAP G7
The relics of what is believed SANTI QUATTRO CORONATI
to be the residence of the
martyrs Giovanni and Paolo Daily 6.15am–8pm; cloister and San Silvestro
(see above) – around twenty chapel Mon–Sat 9.30am–noon & 4.30–6pm,
rooms in all, patchily frescoed Sun 9–10.40am & 4–5.45pm. MAP P.106–107,
with pagan and Christian POCKET MAP H6–H7
subjects. Standouts include the Originally built in 1110, the
Casa dei Genii, frescoed with interior feels a world away from
winged youths and cupids, and the crowds around the nearby
the courtyard or nymphaeum, Colosseum – an atmosphere
which has a marvellous fresco that is intensified by the pretty
of a goddess preparing for her cloister. But its real treasure
marriage to Pluto, sandwiched is the chapel of St Silvestro,
between cupids in boats, whose frescoes, painted in
fishing and loading supplies. 1248, relate the story of how
There’s also an interesting the fourth-century pope cured
antiquarium, with a good haul the emperor Constantine of
of finds from the site. leprosy and then baptized him.

105
 VIA
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THE CELIAN HILL AND SAN GIOVANNI

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Church daily 9am–7pm. Lower church and – a labyrinthine set of rooms
temple Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 3–6pm, Sun that includes a dank Mithraic
noon–6pm. €5. MAP P.106–107, POCKET MAP H6 temple of the late second
This church perhaps century.
encapsulates better than any
other the continuity of history
SAN GIOVANNI IN LATERANO
in Rome – a conglomeration of Daily 7am–6.30pm. Cloisters daily 9am–6pm.
three places of worship from €2. MAP P.106–107, POCKET MAP J7
three very different eras. The The area immediately south
ground-floor church is a superb and east of the Esquiline Hill is
example of a medieval basilica, known as San Giovanni, after
with some fine mosaics in the great basilica that lies at
the apse and some beautiful its heart – the city’s cathedral,
and vivid fifteenth-century and the headquarters of the
frescoes. Downstairs there’s Catholic Church before the
the nave of an earlier church, creation of the Vatican state.
dating back to 392 AD, and the There has been a church
tomb of Pope Clement I, the on this site since the fourth
saint to whom the church is century, and the present
dedicated. At the eastern end building evokes Rome’s
of the fourth-century church, staggering wealth of history,
steps lead down to a third level, with features from different

106
 V. PASQUALE VILLARI
Celian Hill & San Giovanni
V. I S I D

Museo

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periods. The doors to the and his own skin (he was
church were taken from the flayed alive). The heads of
Roman Curia or Senate House, St Peter and St Paul are kept
while the obelisk outside dates secure behind the altar, while
from the fifteenth century the baldacchino just in front
BC. Inside, the first pillar is a splash of Gothic grandeur
on the left of the right-hand made by the Tuscan sculptor
aisle shows a fragment of Giovanni di Stefano in the
Giotto’s fresco of Boniface fourteenth century: it shelters
VIII proclaiming the first the glassed-over bronze tomb
Holy Year in 1300. On the of Martin V, the Colonna
next pillar, a more recent pope who was responsible for
monument commemorates returning the papacy to Rome
Sylvester I, and incorporates from Avignon in 1419. Outside
part of his original tomb, said the church, the cloisters
to sweat and rattle its bones are decorated with early
when a pope is about to die. thirteenth-century Cosmati
The nave itself is lined with work, while next door the
eighteenth-century statues of Lateran Palace, home of the
the apostles: St Matthew, the popes in the Middle Ages, has
tax collector, is shown with a small historical museum.
coins falling out of a sack; St
Bartholomew holds a knife

107
 S A N G I O VA N N I I N L AT E R A N O
THE CELIAN HILL AND SAN GIOVANNI

THE BAPTISTRY
which pilgrims do regularly
San Giovanni in Laterano. Daily 7am–12.30pm – although there are other
& 4–7.30pm. Free. MAP P.106–107, POCKET MAP J7 staircases either side for the less
San Giovanni’s baptistery is penitent. At the top, the Sancta
the oldest surviving in the Sanctorum holds an ancient
Christian world – the octagonal (sixth- or seventh-century)
structure was built during the painting of Christ said to be
fifth century and has been the the work of an angel, hence its
model for many such buildings name – acheiropoeton, Greek
since. Oddly, it doesn’t really for “not done by human hands”.
feel its age, although the You can’t enter the chapel,
mosaics in the side chapels and and, fittingly perhaps, you can
the bronze doors to the chapel only really get a view of it by
on the right, brought here from kneeling and peering through
the Baths of Caracalla, quickly the grilles.
remind you where you are.
MUSEO STORICO DELLA
THE SCALA SANTA AND SANCTA LIBERAZIONE
SANCTORUM Via Tasso 145. Tues–Sun 9.30am–12.30pm,
Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano 14. Tues, Thurs, Fri also 3.30–7.30pm. Free. MAP
April–Sept daily 6.15am–noon & 3.30–6.45pm; P.106–107, POCKET MAP J6
Oct–March daily 6.15am–noon & 3–6.15pm. Occupying two floors of the
MAP P.106–107, POCKET MAP J7 building the Nazis used as a
The Scala Santa is claimed to prison during World War II,
be the staircase from Pontius this museum incorporates the
Pilate’s house down which prison cells, left deliberately
Christ walked after his trial. The untouched. It’s extremely
28 steps are protected by boards, well done, and perhaps the
and the only way you’re allowed most seriously affecting free
to climb them is on your knees, attraction in town.

108
 LUZZI
Shops Via San Giovanni in Laterano 88
T 06.709.6332. Noon–3pm & 7pm–midnight.
SOUL FOOD
Closed Wed. MAP P.106–107, POCKET MAP H6
Via San Giovanni in Laterano 192. Tues–Sat Midway between San

THE CELIAN HILL AND SAN GIOVANNI

10.30am–1.30pm & 3.30–8pm. MAP P.106–107, Giovanni in Laterano and
POCKET MAP H7 the Colosseum, this bustling
Great, mainly vinyl, music restaurant sits amid the tourist
store, with lots of rare as well joints of the neighbourhood.
as mainstream rock and punk The food is hearty and simple,
discs. Flyers and info on gigs and there’s outside seating. It’s
and venues too. extremely cheap, too – secondi
go for €6–9. Pizzas, but only in
VIA SANNIO the evening.
Mon–Fri 9am–1pm, Sat 9am–6pm. MAP
P.106–107, POCKET MAP J7 TAVERNA DEI QUARANTA
Long-standing market that Via Claudia 24 T 06.700.0550. MAP P.106–107,
creeps down the Aurelian Wall POCKET MAP G7
just beyond San Giovanni. Relaxed locals' joint with
Cheap clothes, luggage, shoes, moderately priced Roman food
etc. – yet only five minutes from
the Colosseum.

Café
VALENTINI
Bar
Piazza Tuscolo 2 T 06.7720.7427. MAP COMING OUT
P.106–107, POCKET MAP J8 Via San Giovanni in Laterano 8
Café, pastry shop and tavola T 06.700.9871. Daily 11am–2am. MAP
calda, just five minutes’ from P.106–107, POCKET MAP G6
San Giovanni and a great spot Laid-back gay bar that serves
for lunch, with outside seating food and hosts karaoke nights.
too.

Restaurants Clubs
BLACK OUT
CHARLEY’S SAUCIERE
Via Saturnia 18 T 06.7049.6791 M A San
Via San Giovanni in Laterano 270 Giovanni or Re di Roma or Bus #85. Thurs–Sat
T 06.7049.5666. Mon–Sat 7.45–11.15pm,
11pm–4am. MAP P.106–107, POCKET MAP J8
Tues–Fri also 12.45–2.45pm. MAP P.106–107, Murky, industrial San Giovanni
POCKET MAP H7
club that plays punk, heavy
Lots of French classics – metal and Goth music, with
including fondues (the gigs by US and UK bands.
owner is Swiss), onion soup Closed in summer.
and excellent steaks, not to
mention a good selection of SKYLINE
real French cheeses. Moderate
to high prices, but the food, Via Pontremoli 36 T 06.700.9431. Daily
service and overall atmosphere 10am–4am. MAP P.106–107, POCKET MAP K7
are worth every cent. Best to No-holds-barred gay club
book. that hosts a naked night on
Mondays.

109
 The Aventine Hill and south
The leafy Aventine Hill – once the heart of plebeian Rome – is
now an upscale residential area and one of the city’s most
THE AVENTINE HILL AND SOUTH

pleasant corners. South and west from the hill are two distinct
neighbourhoods: Testaccio, a working-class enclave that’s
become increasingly hip and gentrified (and home to much of
the city’s nightlife), and the more up-and-coming Ostiense,
beyond the ancient city wall, worth a visit for the Centrale
Montemartini branch of the Capitoline Museums. Between
these districts is Rome’s Protestant Cemetery, where the poets
Keats and Shelley are buried. Further south lie the magnificent
basilica of San Paolo fuori le Mura and the Via Appia Antica
with its atmospheric catacombs, and beyond, EUR: Rome’s
futuristic 1930s experiment in town planning.
CIRCUS MAXIMUS 1819. The walls still rise to very
nearly their original height and
MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP F7
there are many fragments of
The southern side of the
mosaics – none spectacular,
Palatine Hill drops down to
but quite a few bright and
Circus Maximus, a long green
well preserved. The complex
expanse that was the ancient
included gymnasiums, gardens
city's main venue for chariot
and an open-air swimming
races. At one time this arena
pool as well as the hot, tepid
had a capacity of up to 400,000
and cold series of baths. As
spectators, and it still retains
for Caracalla, he was one of
something of its original
Rome’s worst and shortest-lived
purpose as an occasional venue
rulers, so it’s no wonder there’s
for festivals and concerts.
L AT I N P L A Q U E O N S A N TA S A B I N A

THE BATHS OF CARACALLA

Viale Terme di Caracalla 52 T 06.3996.7700.
Mon 9am–2pm, Tues–Sun 9am–1 hr before
sunset. €6 joint ticket includes Tomb of Cecilia
Metella & Villa dei Quintili. MAP P.112–113,
POCKET MAP H8
The remains of this ancient
Roman leisure centre give a far
better sense of the monumental
scale of Roman architecture
than most of the extant ruins
in the city – so much so that
Shelley was moved to write
Prometheus Unbound here in

110
T H E B AT H S O F C A R A C A L L A
by St Dominic himself, are
descendants of those planted by
the saint. Wherever the truth
lies, the views from the park
are splendid – across the Tiber
to the centre of Rome and St

THE AVENTINE HILL AND SOUTH

Peter’s.

PIAZZA DEI CAVALIERI DI MALTA

MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP E7
As if to reward those who
venture this far up the
Aventine Hill, the minuscule
Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta
holds an intriguing attraction:
the imposing doorway to
the Priory of the Knights of
Malta is kept firmly closed to
nothing else in the city built the public, but you can peek
by him. The baths make an through the keyhole for a
atmospheric setting for opera perfectly framed, dead-ahead
performances during the view of St Peter’s: the work of
summer (one of Mussolini’s Giovanni Battista Piranesi.
better ideas); for tickets and
programme information, see TESTACCIO
W www.operaroma.it. MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP E9
The working-class
SANTA SABINA
neighbourhood of Testaccio
Piazza Pietro d’Illiria. Daily 7am–1pm & was for many years synonymous
3–7pm. MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP E7 with its slaughterhouse, or
Crowning the Aventine Hill, mattatoio. The area’s bustling
Santa Sabina is a strong market is a good place to get
contender for Rome’s most a flavour of “old” Testaccio,
beautiful basilica. Look at although in recent years the
the main doors, which are area has become fashionable
contemporary with the church and the slaughterhouse, once
and boast eighteen panels carved the area’s main employer, is
with Christian scenes (including now home to the Villaggio
one of the oldest representations Globale, a space used for
of the Crucifixion). Santa Sabina concerts and performances
is also the principal church of aimed at a studenty crowd
the Dominicans, and inside, (see p.121). Despite plans
just near the doors, a smooth for redevelopment, currently
piece of black marble, pitted the only real sight here is
with holes, was apparently a branch of the Museum
thrown by the devil at St of Contemporary Art of
Dominic himself while at prayer, Rome (MACRO Future;
shattering the marble pavement T 06.6710.70400, W www.
but miraculously not harming macro.roma.museum), home
the saint. It’s also claimed to innovative temporary
that the orange trees behind, exhibitions. But the area is
which you can glimpse on your home to many excellent
way to a room once occupied restaurants and nightlife spots.

111
 PIAZZA SAN

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CAFÉS & RESTAURANTS

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Tuttifrutti 5 Montemartini
Volpetti Più 3

112
 PIAZZALE
RCIA UGO LA MALFA
VALLE MU
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Aventine Hill & south
D E LLE TERME DECIAN E
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113
 T H E P R O T E S TA N T C E M E T E R Y
THE AVENTINE HILL AND SOUTH

MONTE TESTACCIO poets are buried, along with a

MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP E9 handful of other well-known
Monte Testaccio, which names. Most visitors come to
gives the area its name, is a see the grave of Keats, who lies
35-metre-high mound created next to his friend, the painter
out of the shards of Roman Joseph Severn, in a corner of
amphorae that were dumped the old part of the cemetery,
here over several centuries. It’s his stone inscribed, according
an odd sight, the ceramic curls to his wishes, with the words
clearly visible through the tufts “Here lies one whose name
of grass that crown its higher was writ in water”. Shelley’s
reaches, the bottom layers ashes were brought here at his
hollowed out by the workshops wife’s request and interred, after
of car and bike mechanics – much obstruction by the papal
and, now, clubs and bars (see authorities, in the newer part
p.120). of the cemetery at the top – the
Shelleys had visited several
THE PROTESTANT CEMETERY years earlier, the poet praising
Entrance on Via Caio Cestio 6 T 06.574.1900, it as “the most beautiful and
W www.protestantcemetery.it. Mon–Sat solemn cemetery I ever beheld”.
9am–5pm, Sun 9am–1pm; last entrance
THE PYRAMID OF CAIUS CESTIUS
30min before closing. €2 donation expected.
Bus 23 to Piazzale Ostiense. MAP P.112–113, Piazzale Ostiense. MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP E9
POCKET MAP E9 The most distinctive landmark
The Protestant Cemetery isn’t in this part of town is the
in fact a Protestant cemetery mossy pyramidal tomb of one
at all, but is reserved for Caius Cestius, who died in 12
non-Roman Catholics of all BC. Cestius had spent some
nationalities. It is nonetheless time in Egypt, and part of his
one of the shrines to the will decreed that all his slaves
English in Rome, and a fitting should be freed – the white
conclusion to a visit to the pyramid you see today was
Keats-Shelley Memorial House thrown up by them in only 330
on Piazza di Spagna (see days of what must have been
p.74) since it is here that both joyful building. It’s open for
114
 1hr visits on the second and SAN PAOLO FUORI LE MURA
fourth Saturday of the month Via Ostiense 190. Daily 7am–7pm; cloister
at 11am (book in advance on 9am–6pm. €3. Metro B San Paolo. MAP
T 06.3996.7700; €4.50).
P.112–113, POCKET MAP E12
The basilica of San Paolo
CENTRALE MONTEMARTINI

THE AVENTINE HILL AND SOUTH

fuori le Mura (St Paul’s
Via Ostiense 106 T 06.0608, W www. Outside the Walls) is one
centralemontemartini.org. Tues–Sun of Rome’s five patriarchal
9am–7pm. €4.50, or €8.50 for joint ticket basilicas, occupying the site
with Capitoline Museums, valid 7 days. MAP of St Paul’s tomb. Victim of a
P.112–113, POCKET MAP E11 devastating fire in 1823, today
This former electricity its largely a nineteenth-century
generating is a permanent reconstruction. The huge
outpost of the Capitoline structure has a powerful and
Museums, attracting visitors authentic sense of occasion:
to formerly industrial evidenced by the medallions of
Ostiense. The huge rooms of the popes fringing the nave and
the power station are suited transepts above, starting with
to showcasing its ancient St Peter to the right of the apse
sculpture, although the and ending with Benedict XVI
massive turbines and furnaces at the top of the south aisle. In
have a fascination of their the south transept, the paschal
own. Among many compelling candlestick is a remarkable
objects are the head, feet piece of Romanesque carving,
and an arm from a colossal supported by half-human
statue, once 8m high, found beasts and showing scenes
in Largo Torre Argentina, a from Christ’s life; the bronze
large Roman copy of Athena, a aisle doors were also rescued
fragmented mosaic of hunting from the old basilica and
scenes, and a lovely naturalistic date from 1070, as was the
statue of a girl seated on a stool thirteenth-century tabernacle
with her legs crossed, from the by Arnolfo di Cambio. There’s
third century BC. There’s also also the cloister, just behind
a figure of Hercules and next here – probably Rome’s finest
to it a soft Muse Polymnia, the piece of Cosmatesque work, its
former braced for activity, the spiralling, mosaic-encrusted
latter leaning on a rock and columns enclosing a peaceful
staring into the distance. rose garden.
CENTRALE MONTEMARTINI

115
 THE AURELIAN WALL VIA APPIA ANTICA
MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP E10–H9 POCKET MAP H10–K12
Built by the Emperor Aurelian The Via Appia Antica,
in 275 AD to enclose Rome’s which starts at the Porta San
hills and protect the city from Sebastiano, is the most famous
THE AVENTINE HILL AND SOUTH

invasion, the Aurelian Wall still of the consular roads that used
surrounds much of the city, but to strike out in each direction
its best-preserved stretch runs from ancient Rome. It was built
2km between Porta San Paolo by one Appio Claudio in 312
and Porta San Sebastiano (which BC, and is the only Roman
lies a few hundred metres of landmark mentioned in the
Largo Terme di Caracalla). Bible. During classical times
Here, the Museo delle Mura the “Appian Way” was the most
at Via di Porta San Sebastiano important of all the Roman
18 (T 06.0608, W www. trade routes, carrying supplies
museodellemuraroma.it; Tues– right down through Campania
Sun 9am–2pm; €3) occupies to the port of Brindisi. It’s no
two floors of the city gate and longer the main route south
has displays showing Aurelian’s out of the city – that’s Via
original plans and lots of photos Appia Nuova from nearby
of the walls past and present. Porta San Giovanni – but it
You can climb up to the top of remains an important part
the gate for great views over the of early Christian Rome, its
Roman countryside beyond, verges lined with numerous
and walk a few hundred metres pagan and Christian sites,
along the wall itself. From here including, most famously, the
it’s only a short walk up Via underground burial cemeteries,
di Porta San Sebastiano to the or catacombs, of the first
Baths of Caracalla. Christians.
THE AURELIAN WALL

116
 Visiting Via Appia Antica and the catacombs
uses run south along Via Appia Antica and conveniently stop at, or near

B to, most of the main attractions, starting with Porta San Sebastiano.
You can walk it, but bear in mind that much of the Via Appia Antica isn’t

THE AVENTINE HILL AND SOUTH

particularly picturesque, at least until you get down to the Catacombs of San
Sebastiano, and the best thing to do is take a bus to San Sebastiano and
double back or walk on further for the attractions you want to see. Bus #118
runs from Piazzale Ostiense almost as far as the San Sebastiano catacombs;
you can also take bus #218 from Piazza San Giovanni, which goes down Via
Ardeatina, or bus #660 from Colli Albani metro station, which goes beyond
the Tomb of Cecilia Metella. However, the easiest option is to take the
Archeobus (W www.trambusopen.com), which runs from Termini and Piazza
Venezia, among other city-centre locations, every 30min (8.30am–4.30pm);
tickets cost €15 for a 24-hour ticket and you can hop on and off as you
wish. Or you could walk from Porta San Sebastiano and take everything in
on foot, which allows you to stop off at the Parco Regionale dell’Appia Antica
information office for the area – it’s actually classified as a national park
– at Via Appia Antica 58, on the right just before you get to Domine Quo Vadis
(summer Mon–Sat 9.30am–1.30pm & 2–5.30pm, Sun 9.30am–5.30pm, winter
closes 4.30pm; T 06.513.5316; W www.parcoappiaantica.it). You can pick up
a good map and other information on the various Appia Antica sights here,
as well as hire bikes on Sundays and public holidays (€3/hour or €10/day).
You can take a tour of the catacombs and nearby sights with Enjoy Rome (see
p.183; Sat only; 3hr; €40). Finally, there are a couple of decent restaurants
down by San Sebastiano: L’Archeologia (T 06.788.0494; closed Tues), just
past the church, and the Cecilia Metella (T 06.5136.743; closed Mon) right
opposite.

DOMINE QUO VADIS the original is in the church of

San Sebastiano (see p.119).
Via Appia Antica 51. Daily 8am–7pm, 6pm in
winter. POCKET MAP J11
VIA APPIA ANTICA

About 500m from Porta San

Sebastiano, where the road
forks, the church of Domine
Quo Vadis is the first sight
on Via Appia. Legend has
this as the place where St
Peter saw Christ while fleeing
from certain death in Rome
and asked “Where goest
thou, Lord?”, to which Christ
replied that he was going to be
crucified once more, leading
Peter to turn around and accept
his fate. The small church is
ordinary enough inside, except
for its replica of a piece of
marble that’s said to be marked
with the footprints of Christ –

117
 CATACOMBS OF SAN CALLISTO German, burying the bodies
Via Appia Antica 126 T 06.5130.1580, W www. here and then exploding
catacombe.roma.it. Thurs–Tues 9am–noon & mines to cover up their crime.
2–5pm. €8. POCKET MAP J12 The bodies were dug up after
The largest of Rome’s the war and reinterred in the
THE AVENTINE HILL AND SOUTH

catacombs, the Catacombs of mausoleum here.

San Callisto were founded in
the second century AD and CATACOMBS OF SAN
many of the early popes are SEBASTIANO
buried here. There are regular Via Appia Antica 136 T 06.785.0350, W www.
free tours in English, and the catacombe.org. Mon–Sat 9am–noon &
site also features some seventh- 2–5pm; closed mid-Nov to mid-Dec. €8.
and eighth-century frescoes, POCKET MAP K12
and the crypt of Santa Cecilia, These catacombs sit under
who was buried here after a much-renovated basilica
her martyrdom, before being that was originally built by
moved to the church dedicated Constantine on the spot where
to her in Trastevere – a copy of the bodies of the apostles Peter
Carlo Maderno’s famous statue and Paul are said to have lain
marks the spot. for a time. Half-hour tours
take in paintings of doves and
MAUSOLEO DELLE FOSSE fish, a contemporary carved oil
ARDEATINE lamp and inscriptions dating
Via Ardeatina 174 T 06.513.6742. Mon–Fri the tombs themselves. The
8.15am–3.15pm, Sat & Sun 8.15am–4.45pm. most striking features are three
Free. POCKET MAP K12 pagan tombs (one painted, two
A ten-minute walk from San stuccoed) discovered when
Callisto, close by the #218 bus archeologists were investigating
stop, is a site that remembers the floor of the basilica upstairs.
the massacre of over 300 Just above here, Constantine
civilians during the Nazi reputedly raised his chapel,
occupation of Rome, after the and although St Peter was later
Resistance had ambushed and removed to the Vatican and St
killed 32 soldiers in the centre Paul to San Paolo fuori le Mura,
of the city. The Nazis exacted a the graffiti records the fact that
harsh vengeance, killing ten this was indeed where the two
civilians for every dead Apostles’ remains rested.
TOMB OF CECILIA METELL A

118
EUR

THE AVENTINE HILL AND SOUTH

THE VILLA OF MAXENTIUS
below you can see what’s left
Via Appia Antica 153 T 06.0608, W www. of an ancient lava flow from
villadimassenzio.it. Tues–Sun 9am–1.30pm. thousands of years earlier.
€3. POCKET MAP K12
A couple of hundred metres EUR
further on from the San Main piazzas at south end of Via Cristoforo
Sebastiano catacombs, the Colombo. Bus #714 from Termini or metro
group of brick ruins trailing off line B. POCKET MAP E12
into the fields to the left are the The EUR district was planned
remains of the Villa and Circus by Mussolini for the 1942
of Maxentius, a large complex Esposizione Universale Roma,
built by the emperor in the but not finished until after
early fourth century AD before the war. Its monumental
his defeat by Constantine. fascist architecture and grand
It’s a clear, long oval of grass, processional boulevards recall
similar to the Circus Maximus Imperial Rome (especially
(see p.110), but slightly better the Palazzo della Civilità or
preserved. “Square Colosseum”). Overall
it’s a pretty strange and soulless
THE TOMB OF CECILIA METELLA
place, something of a white
Via Appia Antica 161 T 06.780.0093. Tues– elephant despite the busy
Sun 9am–1hr before sunset. €6 joint ticket offices and shops. EUR’s main
including Terme di Caracalla and Villa dei attraction is its museums,
Quintili. POCKET MAP K12 especially the Museo della
Further along the Via Appia, Civilità Romana, Piazza Agnelli
this circular tomb dates from 10 (Wwww.museociviltaromana.
the Augustan period, and was it; Tues–Sat 9am–2pm, Sun
converted into a castle in the 9am–1.30pm; €6.50, or €8.50
fourteenth century. Known as including planetarium), which
“Capo di Bove” for the bulls has a large model of the
on the frieze around it, the fourth-century city –perfect
tomb itself, a huge brick-built for setting the rest of the city
drum, is little more than a in context. The museum also
large pigeon coop these days; incorporates the Planetario e
various fragments and finds are Museo Astronomico – no great
littered around the adjacent, shakes, especially if you don’t
later courtyards, and down speak Italian.

119
 in winter, artichokes, are
Shop deservedly popular, so it’s a
good idea to book.
VOLPETTI
DA REMO
Via Marmorata 47. Mon–Sat 8am–2pm &
THE AVENTINE HILL AND SOUTH

5–8.15pm. MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP E8 Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44

It’s worth seeking out this T 06.574.6270. Mon–Sat 7pm–1am; closed
Testaccio deli, truly one of 3wks Aug. MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP E8
Rome’s very best, with a Remo is the best kind of
fantastic selection of cold meats pizzeria: usually crowded with
and cheeses. locals, very basic, and serving
the thinnest, crispiest Roman
VOLPETTI

pizza you’ll find. It’s also worth

trying the heavenly bruschette
and other snacks like supplì
and fiori di zucca. Perfect
pre-clubbing food – and very
cheap.

PALOMBINI
Piazzale Adenauer 12. Mon–Thurs 7am–10pm,
Fri & Sat 7am–1am, Sun 8am–10pm. MAP
P.112–113, POCKET MAP H12
Great EUR café whose outside
terrace and large interior are
a haven amidst EUR’s brutal
boulevards. Appropriately
housed on the ground floor
of EUR’s official “restaurant
Cafés and building”, it’s a café, tabacchi
and wine shop all rolled into
restaurants one, and serves excellent cakes
and sandwiches.
CHECCHINO DAL 1887 TUTTIFRUTTI
Via di Monte Testaccio 30 T 06.574.6318. Via Luca della Robbia 3a T 06.575.7902.
Tues–Sat 12.30–3pm & 8pm–midnight; closed Mon–Sat 7.30pm–11.30pm. MAP P.112–113,
Aug. MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP E9 POCKET MAP E8
A historic symbol of Testaccio This Testaccio favourite
cookery, with an excellent wine is pretty much the perfect
cellar, too. Expensive, but worth restaurant – family-run, with
it for its rustic atmosphere and good food and fair prices.
excellent menu of authentic The menu changes daily, and
Roman meat and offal dishes. offers interesting variations on
traditional Roman dishes.
DA FELICE
Via Mastro Giorgio 29 T 06.574.6800. VOLPETTI PIÙ
Mon–Sat 12.30–2.45pm & 8–11.20pm, Sun Via A. Volta 8. Mon–Sat 10.30am–3.30pm &
12.30–2.45pm. MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP E8 5.30–9.30pm. MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP E8
This always-buzzing trattoria is Tavola calda that’s attached to
a simple place with brick walls, the famous deli a few doors
a tiled floor and no-nonsense down. Great pizza, supplì,
waiters. The outstanding chicken, deep-fried veg and
bucatini cacio e pepe and, much more.
120
Bar CASA DEL JAZZ
Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55 T 06.704.731,
OASI DELLA BIRRA W www.casajazz.it. Metro #B to Piramide or
bus #714. Admission €5–10. MAP P.112–113,
Piazza Testaccio 41. Mon–Sat 5pm–midnight,
POCKET MAP G9

THE AVENTINE HILL AND SOUTH

Sun 7pm–midnight. MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP E8
Sponsored by the city, this
Unassumingly situated under converted villa in leafy
a Piazza Testaccio wine bar, surroundings is the ultimate
the cosy basement rooms jazz-lovers’ complex, with
here house an international a book and CD store and
selection of beers that rivals restaurant, recording studios and
anywhere in the world – 500 in a 150-seat auditorium that hosts
all, and with plenty of wines to gigs most nights of the week.
choose from as well. You can
eat generously assembled plates GOA
of cheese and salami, and a
great selection of bruschette Via Libetta 13 T 06.574.8277. Metro B
and polenta dishes. Garbatella or Bus #29, 769, 770. Thurs–Sat
midnight–4am; closed mid-May to mid-Sept.
Admission €10–25, including 1 drink.
Clubs MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP E11
Long-running Ostiense club
AKAB/CAVE near the Basilica San Paolo,
playing techno, house and
Via di Monte Testaccio 69 T 06.5725.0585, drum’n’bass. Goa has recently
W www.akabcave.com. Metro B Piramide or
had a Gothic makeover, but it’s
bus #23. Tues–Sat midnight–5am. €10–20, stayed true to its musical roots.
including 1 drink. MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP E9
Club built into an old LA SAPONERIA
carpenter’s shop on two floors,
one on ground level, the other Via degli Argonauti 20 T 06.574.6999,
W www.saponeriaclub.it. Metro B Garbatella.
a cavelike room below. Akab’s
biggest night is Tuesday’s Fri & Sat midnight–5am; closed mid-May to
“L-Ektrica” party; Wednesday mid-Sept. Admission €10–15. MAP P.112–113,
POCKET MAP F11
is retro, Thursday r’n’b, Friday
& Saturday house. An ever-popular club attracting
a trendy, international crowd.
L’ALIBI The music is predominantly
hip-hop, dance, techno and
Via Monte Testaccio 44 T 06.574.3448, r’n’b and the decor is all-white
W www.lalibi.it. Metro B Piramide or bus
and stylish; dress up.
#23. Thurs–Sun midnight–5am. Admission
€10–€15, including 1 drink. MAP P.112–113, VILLAGGIO GLOBALE
POCKET MAP E9
Predominantly – but by no Lungotevere Testaccio 1 T 347.413.1205.
means exclusively – male venue Bus #170, 719. Winter months only; opening
that’s one of Rome’s oldest hours depend on events. Admission from €5.
MAP P.112–113, POCKET MAP D10
and best gay clubs. Thursday
night's Gloss is ever-popular. Situated in the old
Downstairs there’s a slaughterhouse along the
multi-room cellar disco and river, the “global village” has
upstairs an open-air bar. The something on almost every
big terrace is perfect during the night, whether it’s world music,
warm months. indie rock or avant-garde
performance art.

121
 Trastevere and the
Janiculum Hill
TRASTEVERE AND THE JANICULUM HILL

Across the river from the centre of town, Trastevere (the name
means literally “across the Tiber”) was the artisan area of the
city in classical times, neatly placed for the trade that came
upriver from Ostia. Nowadays the area is a long way from its
working-class roots, and its many bars and restaurants can
be thronged with tourists. But its narrow streets and closeted
squares are charming, peaceful in the morning, lively come the
evening, with dozens of trattorias setting tables out along the
cobbled streets – and still buzzing late at night, when its bars
and clubs host one of Rome’s most dynamic after-dark scenes.
SAN FRANCESCO A RIPA perhaps even more frank in its
Piazza San Francesco d’Assisi. Daily 7am–noon depiction of an earthily realized
& 4–7.30pm. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP D7–E7 divine ecstasy than his more
The church of San Francesco famous Ecstasy of St Theresa in
a Ripa is best known for two the church of Santa Maria della
things: the fact that St Francis Vittoria (see p.84).
himself once stayed here – SANTA CECILIA IN TRASTEVERE
you can see the actual room
he stayed in if you’re lucky Piazza Santa Cecilia 22. Daily 9.30am–1pm
enough to find it open – and & 4–6.30pm. Crypt daily 9.30am–12.30pm &
the writhing, orgasmic statue 4–6.30pm; €2.50. Cavallini fresco Mon–Sat
of a minor saint, the Blessed 10.15am–12.15pm, Sun 11.30am–12.30pm.
Ludovica Albertoni, sculpted €2.50. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP E18
by Bernini towards the end In its own quiet piazza off Via
of his career. As a work of Anicia, the church of Santa
Baroque emotiveness, it’s Cecilia in Trastevere was
B L E S S E D L U D O V I C A A L B E R TO N I , S A N F R A N C E S C O A R I PA

122
M O S A I C S I N S A N TA M A R I A I N T R A S T E V E R E

TRASTEVERE AND THE JANICULUM HILL

originally built over the site of naturalistic piece of work for
the second-century home of St its time, centring on Christ
Cecilia, who was – along with in quiet majesty, flanked by
her husband – persecuted for angels.
her Christian beliefs. The story
has it that Cecilia was locked in SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE
the caldarium of her own baths Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. Daily
for several days but refused to 7.30am–8pm. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP C18
die, singing her way through In the heart of old Trastevere,
the ordeal (Cecilia is patron Piazza Santa Maria in
saint of music). Her head was Trastevere is named after
finally half hacked off with the church in its northwest
an axe, though it took several corner. Held to be the first
blows before she died. Below Christian place of worship in
the high altar, under a Gothic Rome, it was built on a site
baldacchino, Stefano Maderno’s where a fountain of oil is said
statue of the limp saint shows to have sprung on the day of
her incorruptible body as it was Christ’s birth. The church’s
found when exhumed in 1599, mosaics are among the city’s
with three deep cuts in her most impressive: mostly
neck. Downstairs, excavations Byzantine-inspired works
of the baths and the rest of the depicting a solemn yet sensitive
Roman house are on view in parade of saints thronged
the crypt. But more alluring by around Christ and Mary – the
far is the singing gallery above Coronation of the Virgin –
the nave of the church (ring beneath which are scenes from
the bell to the left of the church her life by the Santa Cecilia
door), where Pietro Cavallini’s artist, Pietro Cavallini. Under
late thirteenth-century fresco the high altar on the right, an
of the Last Judgement – all that inscription – “FONS OLEI” –
remains of the decoration that marks the spot where the oil is
once covered the entire church supposed to have sprung up.
– is a powerful, amazingly
123
 Trastevere & the Janiculum Hill

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 CORS
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Palazzo Artù 10 Da Augusto 6
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TRASTEVERE AND THE JANICULUM HILL

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125
 VILLA FARNESINA Peruzzi, who also decorated
Via della Lungara 230 T 06.6802.7268. Mon– the upstairs Salone delle
Sat 9am–1pm. €5. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP C16 Prospettive, where trompe
The early sixteenth-century l’oeil balconies give views onto
Villa Farnesina was built by contemporary Rome.
TRASTEVERE AND THE JANICULUM HILL

Baldassare Peruzzi for the

Sienese banker Agostino Chigi. GALLERIA NAZIONALE D'ARTE
Its opulent rooms are decorated ANTICA
with marvellous frescoes and Via della Lungara 10 T 06.6880.2323, W www.
most people come to view the galleriaborghese.it. Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm.
Raphael-designed painting of €4. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP C16–17
Cupid and Psyche in the now Housed in the Palazzo Corsini,
glassed-in loggia, completed in the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte
1517 by the artist’s assistants. Antica is a relatively small
The painter and art historian collection that takes up a few
Vasari claims Raphael didn’t rooms of the giant palace.
complete the work because his There’s a grouping of Flemish
infatuation with his mistress – paintings, including works by
“La Fornarina”, whose father’s Rubens and Van Dyck; a room
bakery was situated nearby full of landscapes, including
– was making it difficult to lush scenes by Dughet and
concentrate. Nonetheless it’s a fanciful depiction of the
very impressive: a flowing, Pantheon by Charles Clérisseau.
animated work bursting Look out for the famous
with muscular men and portrayal of Salome with the
bare-bosomed women, Head of St John the Baptist by
although the only part Guido Reni and a painting
Raphael is said to have actually of Prometheus by Salvatore
completed is the female figure Rosa that is one of the most
with her back turned on the vivid and detailed expositions
lunette (to the right of the door of human internal anatomy
leading out to the east). He did, you’ll see. You can also visit
however, apparently manage the bedchamber of Queen
to finish the Galatea in the Christina, who renounced
room next door. The ceiling Protestantism and, with it, the
illustrates Chigi’s horoscope Swedish throne in 1655, and
constellations, frescoed by brought her library and fortune
the architect of the building, to Rome – she died, here in the
PA L A Z Z O C O R S I N I

126
VIEW FROM THE JANICULUM HILL

TRASTEVERE AND THE JANICULUM HILL

palace, in 1689, and is one of THE JANICULUM HILL
only three women to be buried MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP A17–B17
in St Peter’s. Also worth a look It’s about a fifteen-minute
is the curious Aldobrandini walk up Via Garibaldi from
Throne, thought to be a Roman lively Piazza di Sant’Egidio to
copy of an Etruscan throne of the summit of the Janiculum
the second or first century. Hill – not one of the original
seven hills of Rome, but the
THE ORTO BOTANICO
one with the best and most
Largo Cristina di Svezia 24 T 06.4991.7140. accessible views of the centre.
Tues–Sat: April to mid-Oct 9am–6.30pm, Follow Vicolo del Cedro from
mid-Oct to March 9am–5.30pm. €4. MAP Via della Scala and take the
P.124–125, POCKET MAP B17 steps up from the end, cross
The Orto Botanico occupies the the main road, and continue
eastern side of the Janiculum on the steps that lead up to
Hill. It’s a pleasantly neglected San Pietro in Montorio, best
expanse these days where you known – and worth stopping
can clamber up to high stands of off for – the Renaissance
bamboo and ferns cut by rivulets architect Bramante’s little
of water, stroll through a wood Tempietto in its courtyard.
of century-old oaks, cedars and Head up from here to the
conifers, and relax in a grove Passeggiata del Gianicolo and
of acclimatized palm trees. follow the ridge to Piazzale
There’s also a herbal garden with Garibaldi, where there’s an
medicinal plants, a collection of equestrian monument to
orchids that bloom in springtime Garibaldi. Just below is the
and early summer, and a garden spot from which a cannon
of aromatic herbs put together is fired at noon each day
for the blind; the plants can be for Romans to check their
identified by their smell or touch, watches. Further on, the statue
and are accompanied by signs in of Anita Garibaldi recalls the
braille. The garden also has the important part she played in
distinction of being home to one an encounter with the French
of the oldest plane trees in Rome, in 1849 – a fiery, melodramatic
between 350 and 400 years work that also marks her grave.
old, near the rather decrepit Spread out before her are some
monumental staircase. of the best views over the city.

127
 treasures you might happen
Shops upon. They also have books in
Italian, German, French and
THE ALMOST CORNER BOOKSHOP Spanish.
Via del Moro 45. Mon–Sat 10am–1.30pm &
IL PICCHIO
TRASTEVERE AND THE JANICULUM HILL

3.30–8pm, Sun 11am–1.30pm & 3.30–8pm;

closed Sun in Aug. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP D17 Via del Moro 48. Daily 10.30am–1.30pm &
Of all Rome’s English 3.30–8.30pm. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP D17
bookshops, this is the best bet This old-fashioned shop is
for finding the very latest titles, crammed with children’s toys
and staff are helpful too. in wood, from xylophones and
spinning tops to puzzles.
THE ALMOST CORNER BOOKSHOP

ROMA-STORE
Via della Lungaretta 63. Daily 10am–8pm.
MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP D18
Not a football merchandise
store but a shop selling classic
perfumes, scented soaps,
lotions and candles.

VALZANI
Via del Moro 37a/b. Mon & Tues 2–7pm, Wed–
Sun 10am–7pm. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP D18
Specializing in the art of
confectionary since 1925,
this small shop is stuffed full
of calorific treats. Valzani is
most famous for its sublime
chocolate, but the traditional
INNOCENZI Roman treats such as bigne and
frappe are just as hard to resist.
Piazza San Cosimato 66. Mon–Wed, Fri &
Sat 7.30am–1.30pm & 4.30–8pm, Thurs
7.30am–1.30pm. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP D18 Porta Portese market
A great dry-goods grocer, with
n a Sunday it’s worth
all the usual rice and pasta
and Italian goodies, but also
a great selection from around
the world – tomato ketchup,
O approaching Trastevere from
the south, walking over the
Ponte Sublicio to Porta Portese;
teas, peanut butter, the works. from here the Porta Portese flea
A good option for homesick market (dawn–2pm) stretches
expats and foodies alike. down Via Portuense to Trastevere
OPEN DOOR BOOKSHOP train station in a congested medley
of antiques, old motor spares,
Via della Lungaretta 23. Mon 4–8.30pm, cheap and trendy clothing, and
Tues–Sat 10.30am–8.30pm. July & Aug closed
assorted junk. Haggling is the rule,
Sat pm. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP E18
Although they do have some and keep a good hold of your wallet
new titles, especially on Rome or purse. Come early if you want
and Roman history, used books to buy – most of the bargains have
in English dominate the shelves gone by 10am, by which time the
at this friendly bookshop, crush of people can be intense.
where you never know what
128
 outside this pizza al taglio
Cafés and hole-in-the-wall, but it’s worth
seeking out, as it has perhaps
snacks the best pizza by the slice in
Rome. Also roast chicken and
potatoes, supplì and all the

TRASTEVERE AND THE JANICULUM HILL

BIBLI
usual rosticceria fare. Try their
Via dei Fienaroli 28. Mon 5.30pm–midnight, unique spicy green olive pizza.
Tues–Sun 11am–midnight. MAP P.124–125,
POCKET MAP D18
Café and bookshop with only
some English books, but it has
Restaurants
internet access, and a helpful DA AUGUSTO
bulletin board with ads in
Piazza de Renzi 15 T 06.580.3798. Daily
English for those looking for
12.30–3pm & 8–11pm. MAP P.124–125, POCKET
work, apartments and so on.
MAP D17
GIANICOLO A Trastevere old-timer serving
Roman basics outside on the
Piazzale Aurelia 5. Tues–Sun 7am–2am. MAP cobbles in the summer months.
P.124–125, POCKET MAP A18 You can get a hearty meal for
Quite an ordinary bar, but in a about €14 here, including a
picturesque location and a bit glass of robust house wine. No
of a hangout for Italian media bookings taken.
stars, writers and academics
from the nearby Spanish and LA GENSOLA
American academies.
Piazza della Gensola 15 T 06.5833.2758 &
DI MARZIO 06.581.6312. Daily 12.30–3pm & 7.30pm–
midnight. May 15 to Sept 15 closed Sun. MAP
Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere 15. Daily P.124–125, POCKET MAP E18
7am–1.30am. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP D18 This place, with simple decor,
This bar isn’t much on the is a great place for a special
inside, but it’s a friendly place meal: the Sicilian cuisine is
that does decent sandwiches faultless and the atmosphere
and whose terrace right on warm and convivial. The
Piazza Santa Maria makes it the predominantly fishy specialities
best people-watching spot in include tagliolini with tuna and
Trastevere. asparagus, and the desserts are
excellent too: try the apple pie
LA RENELLA
with cinnamon ice cream.
Via del Moro 15. Daily 7am–10pm. MAP
D A A U G U S TO

P.124–125, POCKET MAP D17

Arguably the best bakery in
Rome, with great foccaccia and
superb pizza al taglio. Take a
number and be prepared to
wait at busy times. You can take
away or eat on the premises at
the long counter.

SISINI
Via di San Francesco a Ripa 137. Mon–Sat
9am–10.30pm. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP D18
Just half a block from Viale
Trastevere, there’s no sign
129
 DA IVO AI MARMI
Via di San Francesco a Ripa 158 Viale di Trastevere 53 T 06.580.0919.
T 06.581.7082. Wed–Mon 6pm–midnight. MAP Thurs–Tues 6.30pm–2am. MAP P.124–125,
P.124–125, POCKET MAP D18 POCKET MAP D18
The Trastevere pizzeria, Very reasonably priced
TRASTEVERE AND THE JANICULUM HILL

almost in danger of becoming restaurant, nicknamed “the

a caricature, but still good mortuary” because of its stark
and very reasonable. A nice interior and marble tables,
assortment of desserts, too – and serving superior supplì al
try the monte bianco for the telefono (so named because
ultimate chestnut cream and of the string of mozzarella it
meringue confection. Arrive forms when you take a bite),
early to avoid a chaotic queue. fresh baccalà and some of
Rome’s best pizza.
DA LUCIA
Vicolo del Mattonato 2 T 06.580.3601.
DA OLINDO
Tues–Sun 12.30–3pm & 7.30–12.30pm. MAP Vicolo della Scala 8 T 06.581.8835. Mon–Sat
P.124–125, POCKET MAP C17 7.30–10.30pm. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP C17
Reliable, moderately priced With no sign outside, it’s easy
old Roman trattoria that is the to miss this great, family-run
best place for summer outdoor Trastevere trattoria with just a
dining in Trastevere. Spaghetti few tables. There’s a small menu
cacio e pepe is the speciality of staples – traditional Roman
here – arrive early for one of fare – and prices are cheap and
the in-demand tables on the easy to remember: primi cost
attractive alleyway outside. €7, secondi €9.

LE MANI IN PASTA DA PARIS

Via dei Genovesi 37 T 06.581.6017. Tues–Sat Piazza San Calisto 7a T 06.581.5378.
12.20–3pm & 7.30–11pm. MAP P.124–125, Tues–Sat 12.30–3pm & 7.30am–11.30pm, Sun
POCKET MAP E18 12.30–3pm. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP D18
Tucked down an alley, this The menu at this moderately
small and unassuming place priced Trastevere favourite
has a tiny kitchen in view and is a roll-call of traditional
specializes in pasta and fish Roman-Jewish dishes such as
dishes. A full – and excellent abbacchio (lamb) and carciofi
– meal with wine will set (artichokes). You can either sit
you back around €40–50 per outside, on one of Trastevere’s
person. It’s deservedly busy, so most atmospheric piazzas, or
be sure to book. in one of the elegant dining
rooms.
FRENI & FRIZIONI

DAR POETA
Vicolo del Bologna 46 T 06.588.0516. May–
Octo noon–1am, Nov–April noon–midnight.
MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP C17
A fantastic Trastevere pizzeria,
with a reputation for pizzas
that are a tad thicker than the
traditional Roman variety.
Good beer too, and a lively
atmosphere, especially when a
football match is on. Get there
early, or be prepared to queue.
130
Bars
ARTÙ
Largo F. Biondi 5. Tues–Sun 6pm–2am. MAP

TRASTEVERE AND THE JANICULUM HILL

P.124–125, POCKET MAP C18
Bar and pub on one of
Trastevere’s busiest corners. Its
terrace is great for watching the
world go by, plus there’s a full
menu if you’re peckish.

BUM BUM DE MEL

Via del Moro 17. Tues–Sun 5pm–2am. MAP
P.124–125, POCKET MAP D17
This tiny, Brazilian-themed
bar – emblazoned with the
county’s flag, and staffed by

OMBRE ROSSE
samba-dancing lovelies – is
great for exotic cocktails, and
can always be relied upon for a
lively night out.
SAN CALISTO
FRENI & FRIZIONI Piazza San Calisto 4. Mon–Sat 5.30–1.30am.
Via del Politeama 4/6. Daily 6.30pm–2am. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP D18
MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP D17 An old-guard Trastevere bar
Just off Piazza Trilussa which attracts a huge, mixed
in the pulsing heart of crowd on late summer nights;
Trastevere’s night-scene, the booze is cheap, and you can
this former mechanic’s sit at outside tables for no extra
workshop (the name means cost. Things are slightly less
“Brakes and clutches”) is demimonde-ish during the day,
now home to one of the when it’s simply a great spot
city’s best – and trendiest to sip a cappuccino, read and
– bars, with impressive enjoy the sun.
cocktails. The aperitivo buffet
(6.30–10.30pm) is worth
dropping by for, too. Club
OMBRE ROSSE BIG MAMA
Piazza di Sant’Egidio 12 T 06.588.4155. Vicolo San Francesco a Ripa 18
Mon–Sat 7.30am–2am, Sun 10am–2am. MAP T 06.581.2551, W www.bigmama.it. Tues–Sat
P.124–125, POCKET MAP C18 9pm–1am. MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP D7
A great place for a morning Trastevere-based jazz/blues club
cappuccino, with outdoor of long standing, hosting nightly
seating on one of Trastevere’s acts. A month’s membership is
most charming piazzas. Light €14, with which entry is free,
meals are served too, and except for star attractions (when
there’s live jazz and blues on it’s important to book ahead).
Tues, Thurs & Sun nights. Food is served too.

131
 The Villa Borghese and
north
THE VILLA BORGHESE AND NORTH

During the Renaissance, the market gardens and olive groves

north of the city walls were appropriated as summer estates by
Rome’s wealthy elite, particularly those affiliated to the papal
court. One of the most notable of these, the Villa Borghese,
was the summer playground of the Borghese family and is
now a public park and home to two of Rome’s best museums:
the unmissable art collection of the Galleria Borghese, and
the Villa Giulia, built by Pope Julius II and now the National
Etruscan Museum. North of Villa Borghese stretch Rome’s
nineteenth- and early twentieth-century residential districts
– not of much interest in themselves except perhaps for the
Mussolini-era Foro Italico and the new Auditorium.
VILLA BORGHESE go-karts, but most people take
a two- or four-person chariots
MAP P.134–135, POCKET MAP G2
known as a risciò, operated by a
The vast green expanse of the
mixture of pedal and electrical
Villa Borghese – accessible by
power, which make for a very
way of the Pincio Gardens, or
relaxed way to see the park
from entrances at the top of Via
(€10–20/hr).
Veneto or Via Porta Pinciana –
is about as near as you can get
LAKE IN THE GROUNDS OF VILLA BORGHESE

to peace in the city centre. The

beautiful landscaped grounds
and palace were designed for
Cardinal Scipione Borghese in
1605 and bought by the city
at the turn of the nineteenth
century; they now form the
city’s most central park. There
are plenty of attractions for
those who want to do more
than just stroll or sunbathe,
not least a zoo and some of
the city’s finest museums (see
below), but it’s full of pockets
of interest if you just want to
wander. You can rent bikes
from the corner of Viale
Obelisco and Viale Orologio
and other places in the Pincio
Gardens (from €4/hr, €12/
day), as well as rollerblades and

132
GALLERIA BORGHESE

GALLERIA BORGHESE Holding the Head of Goliath,

Piazzale Scipione Borghese T 06.32.810, and a self-portrait as Bacchus,
W www.galleriaborghese.it. Tues–Sun among others, and the upstairs
8.30am–7.30pm. €14.50. Pre-book at least Pinacoteca comprises one of the
a day in advance; pre-booked visits are richest collections of paintings
obligatory. MAP P.134–135, POCKET MAP G2 in the world, with canvases by
The collection of Cardinal Raphael, his teacher Perugino
Scipione Borghese in the and other masters of the
Galleria Borghese is one of the Umbrian school from the late
city’s most compelling. fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.
The first room has as its Look for the Deposition, Lady
centrepiece Canova’s infamous with a Unicorn, and Portrait of a
statue of the half-naked Pauline Man, by Raphael, and a copy of
Borghese posed as Venus, the artist’s portrait of a tired-out
but otherwise the focus is Julius II, painted in 1513.
on Bernini. The face of his There’s also Venus and Cupid
marvellous statue of David is a with a Honeycomb by Cranach,
self-portrait, said to have been Lorenzo Lotto’s touching
carved with the help of a mirror Portrait of a Man and works by
held by Scipione Borghese the Venetians of the early 1500s,
himself. Other highlights including Titian’s Sacred and
include his dramatic, poised Profane Love, painted in 1514.
Apollo and Daphne; The Rape Check out also the gallery at
of Proserpine from 1622; and a the back of the building, where
larger-than-life statue of Aeneas, there are a series of self-portraits
carrying his father, Anchises, done by Bernini at various
out of the burning city of stages of his life and a bust of
Troy, sculpted by both Bernini Cardinal Scipione executed in
and his then 15-year-old son 1632, portraying him as the
in 1613. There are paintings, worldly connoisseur of fine art
too, including notable works and living that he was.
such as Caravaggio’s David

133
 VIA C
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134
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135
 B E A R S I N T H E B I O PA R C O
THE VILLA BORGHESE AND NORTH

MUSEO CARLO BILOTTI

as the “Bioparco”, focusing on
Tues–Sun 9am–7pm. €6. MAP P.134–135, POCKET conservation and education
MAP F2 yet still providing the usual
Housed in the orangery of the animals kids are after – tigers,
Villa Borghese, this museum apes, giraffes, elephants, hippos
is, like the Galleria Borghese, and much more – though the
made up of a family bequest, separate Rettilario (Reptile
this time of Carlo Bilotti – a house) for some reason costs
perfume and cosmetics baron an extra €2.50, a bit of a rip-off.
who, until his death in 2006, The zoological museum next
collected art and hobnobbed door – accessible from the
with the brightest and best in main road (left out of the zoo
the international art world. and then left again) is less
Good portraits of him by Larry engaging but worth a visit
Rivers, and of his wife and – recently revamped, with
daughter by Andy Warhol, open displays on different animal
the exhibition and add to the habitats as well as lots of more
slightly self-congratulatory air traditional stuffed mammals
of the place, but the real reason and birds.
for coming is to enjoy the
small collection of high-quality GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE
works by the great modern MODERNA
Greek-Italian painter, Giorgio Via delle Belle Arti 131 W www.gnam.arti.
De Chirico, who lived in Rome beniculturali.it. Tues–Sun 8.30am–7.30pm.
for many years (see p.75). €10. MAP P.134–135, POCKET MAP F1
Rome’s museum of modern
BIOPARCO
art is maybe the least enticing
Via del Giardino Zoologico, Villa Borghese of the Villa Borghese’s
T 06.360.8211, W www.bioparco.it. Daily: museums – a lumbering,
Jan–March & Nov–Dec 9.30am–5pm; April– Neoclassical building housing
Oct 9.30am–6pm, open till 7pm Sat & Sun a collection of nineteenth-
April–Sept. €10 adults, €8 children over 1m and twentieth-century Italian
tall and under 12. MAP P.134–135, POCKET MAP F1 (and a few foreign) names.
Large, typical city-centre zoo, However, it can make a
much improved and reinvented refreshing change after several
136
days of having the senses of the collection focuses on
bombarded with Etruscan, preparing for the afterlife.
Roman and Renaissance The most famous exhibit is
art. The nineteenth-century the remarkable Sarcophagus
collection contains a splendid of the Married Couple (in the

THE VILLA BORGHESE AND NORTH

range of paintings by the octagonal room in the east
Tuscan Impressionists (the wing) – a touchingly lifelike
Macchiaioli school), as well as portrayal of a husband and
works by Courbet, Van Gogh wife lying on a couch. It dates
and Cézanne, not to mention from the sixth century BC
a giant statue of Hercules and was discovered in the
by the nineteenth-century tombs at Cerveteri. Look also
Italian sculptor Canova and at the delicate and beautiful
some mighty battle scenes cistae – drum-like objects,
celebrating Italian Unification. engraved and adorned with
The twentieth-century figures, that were supposed
collection features work by to hold all the things needed
Giacomo Balla (a view of the for the care of the body after
Villa Borghese divided into 15 death – and, in the same room,
panels), his student Boccioni marvellously intricate pieces
and other Futurists, along of gold jewellery, delicately
with work by Modigliani and worked into tiny horses, birds,
De Chirico, whose paintings camels and other animals, as
dominate one room. There are well as mirrors, candelabra
also some postwar canvases and religious statues – votive
by the likes of Rothko, Pollock offerings designed to appease
and Cy Twombly, Rome’s own the gods. Further on you’ll find
American artist, who has lived a drinking horn in the shape of
in the city for most of his life. a dog’s head that is so lifelike
you almost expect it to bark;
MUSEO NAZIONALE ETRUSCO DI a holmos, or small table, to
VILLA GIULIA which the maker attached 24
Piazzale Villa Giulia 9. Tues–Sun little pendants around the edge;
8.30am–7.30pm. €4. MAP P.134–135, POCKET MAP E1 and a bronze disc breastplate
The Villa Giulia is a from the seventh century BC
harmonious collection of decorated with a weird, almost
courtyards, loggias, gardens modern abstract pattern of
and temples put together galloping creatures.
in a playful Mannerist style
E X H I B I T I N T H E M U S E O N A Z I O N A L E E T RU S C O

for Pope Julius III in the

mid-sixteenth century. It now
houses the Museo Nazionale
Etrusco di Villa Giulia, the
world’s primary collection of
Etruscan treasures, along with
the Etruscan collection in the
Vatican (see p.147). Not much
is known about the Etruscans,
but the Roman’s predecessors
were a creative and civilized
people, evidenced here by a
wealth of sensual sculpture,
jewellery and art. They were
also deeply religious and much
137
 FORO ITALICO MAXXI
Bus #32 (Ple. M. Giardino), 271 (Ple. M. Diaz), Via Guido Reni 4a W www.maxxi.beniculturali.
280 (P. Mancini), Tram #2 (P. Mancini). MAP it. Tram #2 from Piazzale Fiaminio. MAP
P.134–135 P.134–135, POCKET MAP D1
The Foro Italico sports This brand new museum of
THE VILLA BORGHESE AND NORTH

complex is one of the few twenty-first-century art and

parts of Rome to survive architecture opened to much
intact pretty much the way fanfare and celebration at the
Mussolini planned it. The end of 2009, in a landmark
centrepiece is the Ponte Duca building by the Anglo-Iraqi
d’Aosta, which connects Foro architect Zaha Hadid. It’s
Italico to the town side of mainly a venue for temporary
the river, and is headed by a exhibitions, but there are
white marble obelisk capped small permanent collections,
with a gold pyramid, engraved and the building – a jagged,
MUSSOLINI DUX in beautiful concrete spaceship that looks
1930s calligraphy. Beyond the like it’s just landed in this
bridge, an avenue patched otherwise rather ordinary part
with mosaics revering the of the city – is worth a visit
Duce leads up to a fountain just for itself.
surrounded by more mosaics of
muscle-bound figures revelling PONTE MILVIO
in healthful sporting activities. MAP P.134–135
Either side of the fountain are This footbridge across the
the two main stadiums: the Tiber was the site of the battle
larger of the two, the Stadio in which Constantine defeated
Olimpico on the left, was Maxentius in 312 AD, a
used for the Olympic Games victory that brought about the
in 1960 and is still the venue end of Roman paganism. More
for Rome’s two soccer teams; recently, it has become the home
the smaller, the Stadio dei to numerous padlocks, placed
Marmi (“stadium of marbles”), here by lovers who then
is ringed by sixty great male throw the keys into the
statues, groins modestly hidden river – an enactment of a
by fig leafs, in a variety of ritual popularized by a
elegantly macho poses. best-selling novel.
FO R O I TA L I C O

138
Cafés and Clubs
snacks ART CAFÉ
Via del Galoppatoio 33 T 347.783.5112. Tues–

THE VILLA BORGHESE AND NORTH

GIANFORNAIO Sat 9pm–6am. MAP P.134–135, POCKET MAP F2
In the underground car park
Piazzale Ponte Milvio 35/37. Mon–Sat
in Villa Borghese, this is one of
noon–11pm. MAP P.134–135, POCKET MAP D1
Rome’s trendiest clubs. Expect
Great bakery with pizza and
to queue, and dress up.
other goodies, and lots of
seating inside and out. PIPER
Via Tagliamento 9 T 06.855.5398, W www.
Restaurants piperclub.it. Fri–Sun 11pm–4am. MAP P.134–135,
POCKET MAP H1
DULCAMARA Established in the Seventies by
cult singer Patty Pravo, Piper
Via Flaminia Vecchia 449 T 06.333.2108. MAP
has different nightly events
P.134–135, POCKET MAP D1
(fashion shows, screenings,
Busy place up in the
gigs) and a smart-but-casual
increasingly hip neighbourhood
mixed-aged crowd. Music
across the Ponte Milvio. A
varies, as do entrance prices.
varied menu of good pasta
dishes, soups and salads.

DA GNEGNO Venues
Via Prati della Farnesina 10 T 06.333.6166. AUDITORIUM
Daily 12.30–3pm & 7–11.30pm. MAP P.134–135,
Via Pietro de Coubertin 15 W www.auditorium.
POCKET MAP D1
com. Bus #53, 280, 910 or Tram #2, 19.
A classic old Roman trattoria,
Box office daily 11am–8pm. Concert tickets
tucked away behind Piazzale
€20–30. Buy tickets online, or in Italy on
Ponte Milvio. Good food and
T 892982 or from abroad on T 06.370.0106.
well priced.
Tours Sat & Sun every hour 10.30am–4.30pm,
RED weekdays groups only; book in advance on
T 06.8024.1211, W www.auditorium.com; €9.
Via Pietro de Coubertin 30 T 06.8069.1630. MAP P.134–135, POCKET MAP D1
MAP P.134–135, POCKET MAP D1 Designed by Renzo Piano,
Part of the Auditorium this is one of Rome’s most
complex, this sleek designer prestigious serious music
bar-restaurant is good for a venue, home to its premier
drink or a meal before or after orchestra, the Accademia
a performance. It offers a €15 Nazionale di Santa Cecilia. Two
buffet lunch. smaller venues host smaller
chamber, choral, recital and

Bar experimental works. The

complex also hosts major rock
and jazz names when they
RERE BAR come to town. And there’s a
Via Flaminia Vecchia 475 T 06334.0483. MAP great book and CD shop and a
P.134–135, POCKET MAP D1 decent café too if you just want
Cool, kitsch wine bar, just off to hang out and admire the
Piazzale Ponte Milvio; it also building – of which there are
serves food and hosts resident regular organized tours.
DJs.
139
 The Vatican City
Situated on the west bank of the Tiber, just across from the city
centre, the Vatican City has been a sovereign state since 1929,
THE VATICAN CITY

and its 1000 inhabitants have their own radio station, daily
newspaper, postal service, and security service, in the colour-
fully dressed Swiss Guards. It’s believed that St Peter was
buried in a pagan cemetery on the Vatican hill, giving rise to
the building of a basilica to venerate his name and the siting of
the headquarters of the Catholic Church here. Stretching north
from St Peter’s, the Renaissance papal palaces are now home
to the Vatican Museums – quite simply, the largest, richest,
most compelling and perhaps most exhausting museum com-
plex in the world. The other main Vatican sight worth visiting is
the Castel Sant’Angelo on the riverside, a huge fortress which
once harboured the popes in times of danger. Apart from visit-
ing the main attractions, you wouldn’t know at any point that
you had left Rome and entered the Vatican; indeed the area
around it, known as the Borgo, is one of the most cosmopolitan
districts – full of mid-range hotels, restaurants and scurrying
tourists and pilgrims, while the district just beyond, Prati, is a
comfortable middle-class district that’s home to some of the
city’s best and often least touristy restaurants.
C A S T E L S A N T ’A N G E LO

140
CASTEL SANT’ANGELO
Tues–Sun 9am–7.30pm. €8, free guided tours
in English Sat & Sun 4.30pm. MAP P.142–143,
POCKET MAP C13
The great circular hulk of the

THE VATICAN CITY

Castel Sant’Angelo marks the
edge of the Vatican, designed
and built by Hadrian as his
own mausoleum. It was
renamed in the sixth century,
when Pope Gregory the Great
witnessed a vision of St Michael
here that ended a terrible
plague. The papal authorities
converted the building for
use as a fortress and built a

PIAZZA SAN PIETRO

passageway to link it with the
Vatican as a refuge in times
of siege or invasion. Inside, a
spiral ramp leads up into the
centre of the mausoleum, over
a drawbridge, to the main PIAZZA SAN PIETRO
level at the top, where a small MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP A14
palace was built to house the Perhaps the most famous of
papal residents in appropriate Rome’s many piazzas, Bernini’s
splendour. Pope Paul III had Piazza San Pietro doesn’t
some especially fine renovations disappoint, although its size
made, including the beautiful isn’t really apparent until you’re
Paolina rooms, where the right on top of it, its colonnade
gilded ceilings display the arms symbolically welcoming
Farnese family arms, and the world into the lap of the
you’ll also notice the pope’s Catholic Church. The obelisk
personal motto, Festina Lenta in the centre was brought to
(“Make haste slowly”), scattered Rome by Caligula in 36 AD,
throughout the ceilings and and was moved here in 1586,
in various corners of all his when Sixtus V ordered that
rooms. Elsewhere, rooms hold it be erected in front of the
swords, armour, guns and the basilica, a task that took four
like, while below are dungeons months and was apparently
and storerooms which can be done in silence, on pain of
glimpsed from the spiralling death. The matching fountains
ramp, testament to the castle’s on either side are the work of
grisly past as the city’s most Carlo Maderno (on the right)
notorious Renaissance prison. and Bernini (on the left). In
Off the Paolina rooms, a between the obelisk and each
terrace runs around the whole fountain, a circular stone
building and holds a shady set into the pavement marks
bar for pick-me-up drinks the focal points of an ellipse,
and sandwiches – and some from which the four rows of
great views of Rome, best from columns on the perimeter of
the terrace on the top of the the piazza line up perfectly,
whole structure – from which making the colonnade appear
Tosca famously flung herself in to be supported by a single line
Puccini’s eponymous opera. of columns.

141
 I
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142
 I

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THE VATICAN CITY

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143
 BASILICA DI SAN PIETRO
strangely remote from the
Daily: summer 7am–7pm; winter 7am–6pm. rest of the building. Further
Strict dress code – no shorts or bare into the church, the dome
shoulders. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP B4 is breathtakingly imposing,
The Basilica di San Pietro, rising high above the supposed
THE VATICAN CITY

better known to many as site of St Peter’s tomb. With a

St Peter’s, is the principal diameter of 41.5m it is Rome’s
shrine of the Catholic Church, largest dome, supported by four
built on the site of St Peter’s enormous piers, decorated with
tomb, and worked on by the reliefs depicting the basilica’s
greatest Italian architects of so-called “major relics”:
the sixteenth and seventeenth St Veronica’s handkerchief,
centuries. Not so long ago which was used to wipe the
you could freely stroll around face of Christ; the lance of
the piazza and wander into St Longinus, which pierced
the basilica when you felt like Christ’s side; and a piece of the
it. Now much of the square True Cross. On the right side of
is fenced off, and you can the nave is the bronze statue of
only enter St Peter’s from the St Peter, its right foot polished
right-hand side (exiting to smooth by the attentions of
the left); you also have to go pilgrims. Bronze was also the
through security first, and the material used in Bernini’s
queues can be horrendous 26-metre high baldacchino,
unless you get here in early cast out of 927 tonnes of metal
the morning or late afternoon. removed from the Pantheon
Once you get close to the roof in 1633. To modern eyes,
basilica, you’re channelled it’s an almost grotesque piece
through various entrances of work, its wild spiralling
depending on what you want to columns copied from those
see first – all of which is strictly in the Constantine basilica.
enforced by the unsmiling Bernini’s feverish sculpting
besuited functionaries that decorates the apse too, his
appear at every turn. A carefree bronze Cattedra enclosing the
experience it is not. supposed chair of St Peter,
Inside the basilica, on the though his monument to
right, is Michelangelo’s graceful Alexander VII in the south
Pietà, completed when he was transept is more interesting,
just 24. Following an attack by its winged skeleton struggling
a vandal, it sits behind glass, underneath the heavy marble
M I C H A E L A N G E LO ’ S P I E TÀ

144
 THE VATICAN CITY

drapes, upon which the Chigi on the English-language tour,

pope is kneeling in prayer. book two or three months in
An entrance off the aisle leads advance via the Scavi office,
to the steeply priced Treasury through the arch to the left of St
(daily: summer 9am–6pm; Peter’s (Mon–Sat 9am–3.30pm;
winter 9am–5pm; €6), while T 06.6988.5318; E scavi@fsp.va).
back outside steps lead down The worthwhile ascent to the
to the Grottoes (daily: summer roof and dome (daily: May–
8am–6pm; winter 7am–5pm), Sept 8am–6pm; Oct–April
where the majority of the popes 8am–5pm; €7 via lift, €4 using
are buried. Directly beneath the stairs) – is also outside by
St Peter’s baldacchino, the the entrance to the church. The
necropolis contains a row of views from the gallery around
Roman tombs with inscriptions the interior of the dome give
confirming that the Vatican you a sense of the vastness of
Hill was a burial ground in the church, and from there the
classical times. roof grants views from behind
Whether the tomb claimed the huge statues onto the piazza
as that of St Peter really is the below, before the (challenging)
saint’s resting place is unclear, climb to the lantern at the top
although it does tally with of the dome – the views over
some historical descriptions. the city are as glorious as
To be sure of getting a place you’d expect.
145
 T H E VAT I C A N M U S E U M S
THE VATICAN CITY

THE VATICAN MUSEUMS Museo Pio-Clementino and

Viale Vaticano 13 W www.vatican.va. Mon– Pinacoteca. Above all, decide
Sat 9am–6pm, last entrance at 4pm, last Sun how long you want to spend
of each month 9am–2pm, last entrance at here, and what you want to
12.30pm; closed public and religious holidays. see, before you start; it’s easy
€15, under-18s and under-26s with student to collapse from museum
ID €8; audio guides €6; €4 extra for online fatigue before you’ve even got
booking; last Sun of the month free. MAP to your main target of interest.
P.142–143, POCKET MAP B3 In high season there may be a
If you have found any of queue to get in, but getting to
Rome’s other museums the museums late morning or
disappointing, the Vatican is after lunch can mean a shorter
probably the reason why: so wait. Try to avoid Monday –
much booty from the city’s everyone flocks here because
history has ended up here, and Rome’s other big museums are
so many of the Renaissance’s all closed. Or buy your ticket
finest artists were in the employ in advance online and go to the
of the pope, that the result front of the queue.
is a set of museums which
put most other European MUSEO PIO-CLEMENTINO
collections to shame. As its Vatican Museums. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP B3
name suggests, the complex To the left of the entrance, the
actually holds a number of Museo Pio-Clementino is
museums on very diverse home to some of the Vatican’s
subjects – displays of classical best classical statuary, including
statuary, Renaissance painting, two pieces that influenced
Etruscan relics and Egyptian Renaissance artists more
artefacts, not to mention the than any others – the serene
furnishings and decoration Apollo Belvedere, a Roman
of the building itself. There’s copy of a fourth-century BC
no point in trying to see original, and the first-century
everything, at least not on one BC Laocoön. The former is
visit, and the only features generally thought to be a
you really shouldn’t miss are near-perfect example of male
the Raphael Rooms and the anatomy and was studied by
Sistine Chapel, and perhaps the Michelangelo; the latter depicts
146
 the prophetic Trojan priest MUSEO GREGORIANO ETRUSCO
being crushed by a serpent as
Vatican Museums. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP XX
he warned of the danger of the
The Museo Gregoriano
Trojan horse, and is perhaps
Etrusco holds Etruscan
the most famous classical statue
sculpture, funerary art and
of all time. Beyond here there

THE VATICAN CITY

applied art. Especially worth
are busts of Roman emperors,
seeing are the finds from
the statue of Venus of Cnidos,
the Regolini-Galassi tomb,
the first known representation
from the seventh century BC,
of the goddess, the so-called
discovered near Cerveteri,
Belvedere Torso, found in the
which contained the remains
Campo de’ Fiori during the
of three Etruscan nobles.
reign of Julius II, and much,
There’s gold armour, a bronze
much more sublime classical
bedstead, a funeral chariot
statuary.
and a wagon, as well as a great
MUSEO GREGORIANO EGIZIO number of enormous storage
jars, in which food, oil and
Vatican Museums. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP B3 wine were contained for use in
It may not be one of the the afterlife.
Vatican’s highlights, but the
Museo Gregoriano Egizio GALLERIA DEI CANDELABRI,
holds a distinguished collection DEGLI ARAZZI, AND DELLE CARTE
of ancient Egyptian artefacts, GEOGRAFICHE
including some vividly painted
Vatican Museums. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP B3
mummy cases (and two
Outside the Etruscan Museum,
mummies), along with canopic
a large monumental staircase
jars, the alabaster vessels
leads back down to the
into which the entrails of the
Galleria dei Candelabri, the
deceased were placed.
niches of which are adorned
with huge candelabra taken
GALLERIA DELLE CARTE GEOGRAFICHE

from imperial Roman villas.

This gallery is also stuffed
with ancient sculpture, its
most memorable piece being
a copy of the famous statue
of Diana of Ephesus, whose
multiple breasts are according
to the Vatican official line in
fact bees’ eggs. Beyond here
the Galleria degli Arazzi has
Belgian tapestries to designs
by the school of Raphael and
tapestries made in Rome
during the 1600s. The Galleria
delle Carte Geografiche was
decorated in the late sixteenth
century with maps of all
Italy, the major islands in
the Mediterranean, the papal
possessions in France, as well
as large-scale maps of the
maritime republics of Venice
and Genoa.

147
 RAPHAEL ROOMS the great minds from antiquity
are represented. It pairs
Vatican Museums. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP B3
with the Disputation of the
At the end of the various
Sacrament opposite, which is a
galleries, the Raphael
reassertion of religious dogma
Rooms formed the private
– an allegorical mass of popes,
THE VATICAN CITY

apartments of Pope Julius II,

cardinals, bishops, doctors and
and when he moved in here
even the poet Dante.
he commissioned Raphael
to redecorate them in a style APPARTAMENTO BORGIA
more in tune with the times.
Raphael died in 1520 before Vatican Museums. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP B3
the scheme was complete, Outside the Raphael Rooms,
but the two rooms that were the Appartamento Borgia was
painted by him, as well as inhabited by Julius II’s hated
others completed by pupils, predecessor, Alexander VI, and
stand as one of the highlights is host to a large collection of
of the Renaissance. The Stanza modern religious art, although
di Eliodoro, the first room you its ceiling frescoes, the work of
come to, was painted by three Pinturicchio between 1492 and
of Raphael’s students five years 1495, are really the main reason
after his death, and is best to visit, especially those of the
known for its painting of the Sala dei Santi, where the figure
Mass of Bolsena which relates of St Catherine is said to be a
a miracle that occurred in the portrait of Lucrezia Borgia.
town in northern Lazio in the
SISTINE CHAPEL
1260s, and, on the window wall
opposite, the Deliverance of St Vatican Museums. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP B4
Peter. The other main room, Steps lead from the Raphael
the Stanza della Segnatura, Rooms to the Sistine Chapel, a
or pope’s study, was painted huge barn-like structure that is
between 1508 and 1511, when the pope’s official private chapel
Raphael first came to Rome, and the scene of the conclaves
and comes close to the peak of cardinals for the election of
of the painter’s art. The School each new pontiff. The walls of
of Athens, on the near wall as the chapel were decorated by
you come in, steals the show, a several prominent painters of
representation of the triumph the Renaissance – Pinturicchio,
of scientific truth in which all Perugino, Botticelli and
THE RAPHAEL ROOMS

148
ADMIRING THE SISTINE CHAPEL

THE VATICAN CITY

Ghirlandaio. However they much brighter painting.
are entirely overshadowed by Michaelangelo's other great
Michelangelo’s more famous work here, The Last Judgement,
ceiling frescoes, commissioned is on the altar wall of the chapel,
by Pope Julius II in 1508, and and was painted by the artist
perhaps the most viewed set more than twenty years later.
of paintings in the world. Michelangelo wasn’t especially
The frescoes were done by keen to work on this, but Pope
Michelangelo single-handed Paul III, an old acquaintance of
over a four year period and the artist, was keen to complete
depict scenes from the Old the decoration of the chapel.
Testament, from the Creation The painting took five years,
of Light at the altar end to again single-handed, and is
The Drunkenness of Noah probably the most inspired and
over the door. Look also at most homogeneous large-scale
the pagan sibyls and biblical painting you’re ever likely to
prophets which Michelangelo see. The centre is occupied
incorporated in his scheme by Christ, turning angrily as
– some of the most dramatic he gestures the condemned
figures in the entire work, to the underworld. St Peter,
and all clearly labelled by the carrying his keys, looks on
painter, from the sensitive in astonishment, while Mary
figure of the Delphic Sybil to averts her eyes from the
the hag-like Cumaean Sybil scene. Below Christ a group of
and the prophet Jeremiah angels blasts their trumpets to
– a brooding self-portrait summon the dead from their
of an exhausted-looking sleep. On the left, the dead
Michelangelo. Julius II lived awaken from their graves,
only a few months after the tombs and sarcophagi, and are
Sistine Chapel ceiling was levitating into the heavens or
finished, but the fame of the being pulled by ropes and the
work he had commissioned napes of their necks by angels
spread. It’s staggeringly who take them before Christ.
impressive, all the more so for At the bottom right, Charon,
its restoration, which lifted keeper of the underworld,
centuries of accumulated swings his oar at the damned
soot and candle grime off souls as they fall off the boat
the paintings to reveal a into the waiting gates of hell.
149
 MUSEUM OF CHRISTIAN ART AND in a sulk or mid-chortle; and
THE VATICAN LIBRARY ancient old men, their flesh
sagging and wrinkling to reveal
Vatican Museums. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP B4
the skull beneath.
After the Sistine Chapel, you’re
channelled to the exit by way THE PINACOTECA
THE VATICAN CITY

of the Museum of Christian

Art, which is not of great Vatican Museums. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP B4
interest in itself, but does give The Pinacoteca is housed in
access to a small room off to a separate building on the far
the left that contains a number side of the Vatican Museums’
of ancient Roman frescoes main spine, and is among
and mosaics, among them Rome’s picture galleries, with
the Aldobrandini Wedding, a works from the early to high
first-century BC Roman fresco Renaissance and right up
that shows the preparations to the nineteenth century.
for a wedding in touching Among early works, there is
detail. Back down the main an amazing Last Judgement
corridor, the Vatican Library is by Nicolò and Giovanni
decorated with scenes of Rome from the twelfth century, the
and the Vatican, and beyond, stunning Simoneschi triptych
the corridor opens out into by Giotto, painted in the early
the dramatic Library of Sixtus 1300s for the old St Peter’s,
V, a vast hall built across the and fragments of Melozzo
courtyard in the late sixteenth de Forlì’s Musical Angels,
century to glorify literature – painted for the church of Santi
and of course Sixtus V himself. Apostoli. Further on are the
rich backdrops and elegantly
BRACCIO NUOVO AND MUSEO clad figures of the Umbrian
CHIARAMONTI School painters, Perugino and
Pinturicchio. Raphael has a
Vatican Museums. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP B4
room to himself, where you’ll
The Braccio Nuovo and
find his Transfiguration, which
Museo Chiaramonti both hold
he had nearly completed when
classical sculpture, although
he died in 1520, The Coronation
they are the Vatican at its most
of the Virgin, done when he was
overwhelming – close on a
only 19 years old, and, on the
thousand statues crammed
into two long galleries. The
T H E T R A N S F I G U R AT I O N

Braccio Nuovo was built in the

early 1800s and it contains,
among other things, probably
the most famous extant
image of Augustus, and a
bizarre-looking statue depicting
the Nile. The 300-metre-long
Chiaramonti gallery is lined
with the chill marble busts
of hundreds of nameless
ancient Romans, along with
the odd deity. It pays to have
a leisurely wander, for there
are some real characters here:
sour, thin-lipped matrons with
their hair tortured into pleats,
curls and spirals; kids, caught
150
T H E VAT I C A N G A R D E N S

THE VATICAN CITY

left, the Madonna of Foligno, from the Baths of Caracalla and
showing SS John the Baptist, Roman funerary work, notably
Francis of Assisi and Jerome. the Haterii tomb friezes, which
Leonardo’s St Jerome, in the show backdrops of ancient
next room, is a remarkable Rome and realistic portrayals
piece of work with Jerome a of contemporary life. The
rake-like ascetic torn between adjacent Museo Pio Cristiano
suffering and a good meal, has intricate early Christian
while Caravaggio’s Descent sarcophagi and, most famously,
from the Cross, two rooms on, an expressive third-century AD
is a warts-and-all canvas that statue of the Good Shepherd.
unusually shows the Virgin The Museo Missionario
Mary as a middle-aged mother Etnologico displays art and
grieving over her dead son. artefacts from all over the
Take a look too at the most world, collected by Catholic
gruesome painting in the missionaries.
collection, Poussin’s Martyrdom
of St Erasmus, which shows the VATICAN GARDENS
saint stretched out on a table March–Oct Tues, Thurs & Sat 10am, Nov–Feb
with his hands bound above his Sat 10am; €30, includes access to the
head in the process of having Vatican Museums; visits last about two hours
his small intestine wound and tickets must be booked in advance on
onto a drum – basically being T 06.6988.4476; W www.vatican.va. MAP
“drawn” prior to “quartering”. P.142–143, POCKET MAP A4
It’s possible to visit the lovely
MUSEI GREGORIANO Vatican Gardens on one
PROFANO, PIO CRISTIANO AND guided tour a day – well worth
MISSIONARIO ETNOLOGICO doing for the great views of
Vatican Museums. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP B4 St Peter’s. But you have to
Next door to the Pinacoteca, be organized and book in
the Museo Gregoriano advance; you pay when you
Profano holds more classical pick your tickets up on the
sculpture, mounted on day. The dress code is as for St
scaffolds for all-round viewing, Peter’s – so no bare knees or
including mosaics of athletes shoulders.
151
 DEL FRATE
Shops Via degli Scipioni 118/124 T 06.321.1612.
CASTRONI Mon–Sat 8am–8pm. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP C3
This large wine and spirits shop
Via Cola di Rienzo 196. Mon–Sat 8am–8pm. is located on a quiet street near
THE VATICAN CITY

MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP C3 the Vatican, and has all the
Huge, labyrinthine food Barolos and Chiantis you could
store with a large selection want, alongside shelves full of
of Italian treats as well as grappa in all shapes and sizes.
hard-to-find international There’s a wine bar/restaurant
favourites – plus a café with attached, too.
coffee, cakes and sandwiches.
There’s another branch nearby
at Via Ottaviano 55. Cafés and snacks
COLAPICCHIONI GRAN CAFFE BORGO
Via Tacito 76/78; Via Properzio 23/25. MAP Borgo Pio 170/171. MAP P.142–143, POCKET
P.142–143, POCKET MAP D3 MAP B13
Long-running food store with The Borgo isn’t the best place to
two branches, the former get decent food but you have to
mainly a bakery, the later refuel between sights and this is
incorporating a deli, but both one of the best places to do it,
selling the family’s excellent an unassuming bar that’s been
pangiallo and other foodie in the family for generations
goodies. and is a cut above the more
tourist-targeted places on the
FRANCHI
same street, with excellent
Via Cola di Rienzo 200. Mon–Sat 8am–9pm. panini, tramezzini and cakes –
MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP C3 and outside seating.
One of the best delis in Rome
– a triumph of cheeses and MONDO ARANCINA
sausages with an ample choice Via Marcantonio Colonna 38 T 06.9761.9213.
of cold or hot food to go, Daily 10am–midnight. MAP P.142–143, POCKET
including delicious torta rustica MAP D2
and roast chicken. They’ll make Great pizza al taglio at this
up customized lunches for you, Prati Sicilian takeaway, but
and they have the wines to go the real treats are the arancini
with it. – any number of varieties,
from tomato and mozzarella
FRANCHI

to Bolognese, and cheap too,

at €2 each. Just the thing for
post-Vatican recovery.

NON SOLO PIZZA

Via degli Scipioni 95/97. Tues–Sun
8.30am–10pm. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP B3
Pizza by the slice, as well as
supplì, olive ascolane, fiori
di zucca, crocchette, etc, and
a complete selection of hot
dishes. From 7pm they offer
made-to-order round pizzas,
too. No extra charge to sit,
inside or out.
152
OLD BRIDGE
Via dei Bastioni di Michelangelo 5. Daily
10am–2am. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP B3
The gelato here is some of the
city’s best, and the queues

THE VATICAN CITY

– which rival those for the
Vatican Museums up the street
– are proof.

Restaurants

D A L TO S C A N O
CACIO E PEPE
Via Avezzana 11 T 06.321.7268. Mon–Fri
DAL TOSCANO
12.30pm–3.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm, Sat
12.30pm–3.30pm. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP D1 Via Germanico 58/60 T 06.3972.5717. Tues–
Rough-and-ready Prati cheapie Sun 12.30–3pm & 8–11pm. MAP P.142–143,
with a menu taped to the wall POCKET MAP B3
but the food can’t be beat. Tuscan food, and very popular,
You can’t book, and should with great steaks and other
expect to wait for a table, but meat dishes, perfectly grilled
it’s well worth it: great cacio on charcoal, delicious pici
e pepe (naturally), alla gricia, (thick home-made spaghetti)
carbonara and other pasta and ribollita (veg & bread
staples, and good secondi too. soup) – all at moderate prices.
Always crowded. A treat, and very handy for the
Vatican.
CANTINA TIROLESE
Via Vitelleschi 23 T 06.6813.5297. Tues–Fri
noon–midnight, Sat 7pm–midnight, Sun noon– Bars
midnight. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP B13
FONCLEA
Reputedly the pope’s favourite
restaurant while he was still a Via Crescenzio 82a T 06.689.6302. Daily
cardinal, and no wonder, because 7pm–2am. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP C3
the hearty and wholesome This historic basement joint
Austrian and German fare is loaded both with devoted
served at this long-established regulars and visitors who have
Prati standby is excellent, and happily discovered that there is
there’s lots of it. A nice option life in the Vatican’s sometimes
if you’re craving a change from somnolent Borgo and Prati
Rome’s usual offerings. area. Live music every evening
at 9.30pm, and free during the
OSTERIA DELL’ANGELO week.
Via G. Bettolo 24 T 06.372.9470. Mon–Sat
NUVOLARI
8–11.15pm, plus Tues & Fri 12.45–2.30pm.MAP
P.142–143, POCKET MAP B2 Via degli Ombrellari 10 T 06.6880.3018. MAP
Very popular restaurant run by 142–143, POCKET MAP A13
an ex-rugby player. Booking Welcoming Borgo wine bar
advisable. Reasonable prices, that has a good choice of wines
whether at lunch, when you by the glass and does a good
order à la carte, or at dinner, free buffet (6.30–8.30pm). A
when there is a set €25 price for local vibe, quite unexpected in
three courses. this part of town.

153
 Day-trips
You may find there’s quite enough in Rome to keep you occupied
during your stay. But it can be a hot, oppressive city, and its
DAY-TRIPS

churches, museums and ruins are sometimes wearing – so

if you’re around long enough it’s worth getting out to see
something of the countryside or going to the beach, for which
there are lots of options within easy reach. Two of the main
attractions close to Rome are among the most compelling at-
tractions in the country, let alone the Rome area: Tivoli, about
an hour by bus northeast of Rome, is a small provincial town
famous not only for the travertine quarries nearby, but also for
two villas – one Renaissance, one Roman, both complete with
landscaped gardens and parks; southwest of Rome, Ostia is
the city’s busiest seaside resort, but more importantly was the
site of the port of Rome in classical times, the ruins of which –
Ostia Antica – are well preserved and worth seeing.
TIVOLI
TIVOLI

Buses leave Rome for Tivoli every 10min

from Ponte Mammolo metro station (line B);
journey time 30–45min.
Perched high on a hill, with
fresh mountain air and a
pleasant position on the
Aniene River, Tivoli has
always been a retreat from
the city. In classical days it
was a retirement town for
wealthy Romans; during the
Renaissance it again became
the playground of the moneyed
classes, attracting some of the
city’s most well-to-do families
and their new-built villas.
Nowadays the leisured classes
have mostly gone, but Tivoli
does very nicely on the fruits
of its still-thriving travertine
business and the relics from
its ritzier days. To do justice
to the gardens and villas –
especially if Villa Adriana is
on your list – you’ll need the
whole day.

154
T H E T E M P L E O F V E S TA

DAY-TRIPS
VILLA D’ESTE VILLA GREGORIANA
Jan, Nov, Dec daily 8.30am–4pm, Feb daily March & mid-Oct to end-Nov Tues–Sat
8.30am–4pm, March daily 8.30am–5.15pm, 10am–2.30pm, Sun 10am–4pm, April to
April 8.30am–6.30pm, May–Aug daily mid-Oct Tues–Sun10am–6.30pm; €5.
8.30am–6.45pm, Sept daily 8.30am–6.15pm, Tivoli’s other main attraction,
Oct daily 8.30am–5.30pm; €6.50. the Villa Gregoriana was
Tivoli’s major sight is the Villa created when Pope Gregory
d’Este, across the main square XVI diverted the flow of the
of Largo Garibaldi. This was river here to ease the periodic
the country villa of Cardinal flooding of the town in 1831.
Ippolito d’Este, and has been At least as interesting and
restored to its original state. beautiful as the d’Este estate, it
Beautiful Mannerist frescoes remains less well known and
in its rooms show scenes from less visited, and has none of the
the history of the d’Este family latter’s conceits – its vegetation
in Tivoli, but it’s the gardens is lush and overgrown,
that most people come to see, descending into a gorge over
peeling away down the hill in 60m deep. There are two main
a succession of terraces, their waterfalls – the larger Grande
carefully tended lawns, shrubs Cascata on the far side, and a
and hedges interrupted by one smaller one at the neck of the
fountain after another. Among gorge. Cross the bridge and
the highlights, the central, go in the back entrance, from
almost Gaudí-like Fontana del where the path winds down
Bicchierone, by Bernini, is one to the bottom of the canyon,
of the most elegant; to the left passing a ruined Roman
of this, the Rometta, or “Little villa. Climb up the other side
Rome”, has reproductions of through hollowed-out rock to
the city’s major buildings and a where you can get right up to
boat holding an obelisk; while the roaring falls; beyond here
perhaps the best is the Fontana the path leads up to the far
dell’Ovato on the opposite side, side to the main entrance and
fringed with statues, underneath the substantial remains of a
which is a rather dank arcade, Temple of Vesta, clinging to
in which you can walk. the side of the hill.

155
 Lago di Castelnuovo Lucus
Bracciano Lago di di Porto
Bracciano Martignano Feroniae

A1
Monterotondo
Acqua
Necropoli Claudia Necropoli
d. Banditaccia Citta di Guidonia Villa
DAY-TRIPS

Veio
Cerveteri E4 Gregoriana
5
Città Etrusca Tivoli
Stadio Villa d’Este
Ladispoli

A2
A12 Olimpico
Villa

4
Termini Adriana
Vatican Station
City
ROME

A1
Fregene
A1

Cinecittà
2

EUR
Ciampino Frascati
Fiumicino
Cecchignola Ciampino Grottaferrata
CASTELLI
Fiumicino Marino ROMANI
Ostia Lago
Antica Rocca di Papa
Castel Gandolfo Albano
Lido di Ostia Ariccia Albano Laziale
Castel Fusano Nemi
Genzano Lago
TYRRHENIAN di Nemi
Velletri
N SEA
Torvaianica
Aprília

0 kilometres 10

Day-trips 0 miles 5

VILLA ADRIANA long, elegant channel of water

Ask the Rome–Tivoli bus to drop you off fringed by sporadic columns
or take the local CAT #4 bus from Largo and statues leading up to a
Garibaldi in Tivoli. It’s a 10min walk from the temple of Serapis at the far
main road. Daily 9am–1hr before sunset; €10. end. Near the Canopus, a
Probably the largest and museum displays the latest
most sumptuous villa in finds from the ongoing
the Roman Empire, Villa excavations here, though
Adriana, just outside Tivoli, most of the discoveries have
was the retirement home of found their way to museums
the Emperor Hadrian for a in Rome. Back towards the
short while between 135 AD entrance there are the remains
and his death three years later. of two bath complexes, a
Hadrian was a great traveller fishpond with a cryptoporticus
and a keen architect, and parts (underground passageway)
of the enormous site were underneath, marked with the
inspired by buildings he had names of the seventeenth- and
seen around the world. The eighteenth-century artists
massive Pecile, for instance, who visited here, and finally
through which you enter, is the Teatro Marittimo, with
a reproduction of a building its island in the middle of a
in Athens; the Canopus, on circular pond – the place to
the opposite side of the site, which it’s believed Hadrian
is a copy of the sanctuary of would retire for a siesta.
Serapis near Alexandria, its

156
Hitting the beach to Piramide mero on line #B;
get off at Lido Centro or the
There are plenty of places to last stop, Cristoforo Colombo,
head for if you fancy a day at where the crowds might be
thinner.

DAY-TRIPS
the beach – and let’s face it,
on a hot day in Rome in high TORVAIANICA
South of Ostia, the water is
summer there’s sometimes cleaner here and the crowds
nothing else for it but to get not so thick, plus there are
gay and nudist sections of the
out of town. Here are some of beach if these are your fancy,
the best seaside spots. and not a lot of development.
Buses run from Cristoforo
OSTIA Colombo station in Ostia; take
Lido di Ostia has for years #07 or #061.
been the number one, or at
any rate the closest and most
FREGENE
accessible seaside resort for Like Ostia, Fregene, a
Romans. The beaches are ok, little way north, is one of
and much cleaner than they the busier resorts of the
used to be, but you have to Rome area but posher and
pay to use them and the town more family-orientated
doesn’t have a great deal to than Ostia – its beaches
recommend it apart from its are equally crowded and
thumping nightlife in summer, expensive though. Take a
and with a little more time train to Maccarese from Rome
you could do better. Ostia is, Trastevere or Ostiense– a
however, easy to get to, just half roughly twenty-minute
an hour by train from Porta journey – and it’s a short local
San Paolo station, next door bus ride from there to Fregene.
S P E R LO N G A

157
 ANZIO
DAY-TRIPS

SANTA SEVERA upscale resort by comparison,

There’s not much to sleepy with fine beaches and clean
Santa Severa but it’s easy to get water and good restaurants. It’s
to and has everything you need not that hard to reach either;
for a day at the beach, with about five trains a day run from
long stretches of sandy beach – Termini and take about an
some free, the rest given over to hour and forty minutes.
the usual letti and ombrelloni –
and a decent tavola calda right CAPALBIO
on the seafront; there’s also a Just over the border in Tuscany,
castle at the southern end of about 100km northwest of
the beach, home to a small Rome, Capalbio is just about
municipal museum, if you get possible on a day-trip, and its
bored. The only drawback is beaches are worth the journey.
the fact that the train station is The station is a shortish
a twenty-minute walk from the walk from the beach and the
town, with erratic connecting village, a little way inland, is
buses and no real alternative an upscale, artsy sort of place,
transport. But trains are and only a bus-ride from the
regular and quick: hourly from late Niki St-Phalle's sculpture
Termini, and the journey takes garden, the Giardino dei
just under an hour. Tarocchi (April to mid-Oct
To the north of Rome and 2.30–7.30pm; €10.50), which
almost in Tuscany, Capalbio the French artist created over
feels a long way from Rome twenty years with her husband,
and its satellite towns, an Jean Tinguely.
158
ANZIO
it’s just a ten-minute walk
About 40km south of Rome, down to the main square and
and fairly free of the pull of harbour, with the beaches
the capital, Anzio is worth stretching out north of the
visiting both for its beaches centre.

DAY-TRIPS
and its history – much of the
town was damaged during a TERRACINA AND SPERLONGA
difficult Allied landing here Both of these are a bit of a
on January 22, 1944, to which schlep compared to the other
two military cemeteries nearby resorts, and as such
(one British, another, at you might want to consider
nearby Nettuno, American), staying overnight. But they
as well as a small museum, are do-able for a day-trip and
bear testimony. It was also a Terracina has great sandy
favoured spot of the Roman beaches and a welcoming
emperor, the ruins of whose small-town feel, as well as a
couple of good restaurants.
villa spread along the cliffs
A little further south from
above and even down onto Terracina, little Sperlonga is
the beach. Anzio is a good a more chi-chi resort, with
place to eat: it hosts a thriving equally good beaches and an
fishing fleet and some great attractive old quarter piled up
restaurants down on the on the headland just beyond.
harbour. The resort is easy to There are direct trains from
get to, with trains every hour Termini to Terracina (1hr
from Termini; the journey is 30min).
an hour and from the station
TERRRACINA FROM THE AIR

159
 – and it even comparies pretty
OSTIA ANTICA well with far better-known
Regular trains from Roma–Porta San Paolo sights like Pompeii.
(next door to Piramide metro station, on line From the entrance, the
B); journey time 30min. March 8.30am–5pm, Decumanus Maximus, the
main street of Ostia, leads
DAY-TRIPS

April–Oct Tues–Sun 8.30am–6pm, Nov–Feb

8.30am–4pm; €6.50. west, past the Baths of
The excavations of the Roman Neptune on the right (where
port of Ostia – Ostia Antica there’s an interesting mosaic)
– constitute one of the finest to the town’s commercial
ancient Roman sites you’ll centre, known as the Piazzale
see anywhere – and easily delle Corporazioni. On the
merits the short journey out way, detour down Via della
of town. Until its harbour Fontana, a wonderfully
silted up and the town was preserved street which
abandoned during the fourth gives a good idea of the
century, Ostia was Rome’s typical Roman urban layout:
principal port and a thriving ground-floor shops and
commercial centre. Over the upper-floor apartments. There
centuries the sand and mud are more shops on Piazzale
of the Tiber preserved its delle Corporazioni, which
buildings incredibly well and specialized in enterprises
the excavations here are an from all over the ancient
evocative sight: it’s much easier world, and the mosaics just
to visualize a Roman town in front denote their trade –
here than from any amount of grain merchants, ship-fitters,
pottering around the Forum ropemakers and the like.

160
Flanking one side of the House of Diana, the museum
square, Ostia’s theatre has been holds a variety of articles
much restored and sometimes from the site, including wall
hosts performances of classical paintings depicting domestic
drama during summer. On life in Ostia and some fine
the left of the square, the sarcophagi and statuary,

DAY-TRIPS
House of Apulius preserves notably Mithras Slaying
mosaic floors and, beyond, a the Bull from one of Ostia’s
dark-aisled Mithraeum with Mithraeums. Left from here,
more mosaics illustrating the Forum centres on the
the cult’s practices. Behind Capitol building, reached by
here, the House of Diana is a wide flight of steps, and
probably the best-preserved fringed by the remains of
private house in Ostia, with a baths and a basilica. Further
dark, mysterious set of rooms on, the Porta Occidentale
around a central courtyard, or western gate and the Via
and another Mithraeum delle Foce beyond lead to
at the back. You can climb the Terme dei Sette Sapienti
up to its roof for a fine baths complex, with a
view of the rest of the site, wonderfully intact floor
afterwards crossing the road mosaic and atmospheric
to the Thermopolium – an arcaded passageways that
ancient Roman café, complete lead to the large Casa degli
with seats outside, a high Aurighi. You can climb up to
counter, display shelves and the roof of this, too, and enjoy
even wall paintings of parts more marvellous views over
of the menu. North of the the whole site.
OSTIA ANTICA

161
 Hotels and B&Bs
There’s no shortage of places to stay in Rome – but accommoda-
tion here tends to be pricier than in other European cities. Location
HOTELS AND B&Bs

is important: many of the cheaper options are clustered around

Termini district, which, despite having improved dramatically in
recent years, is not the city’s most picturesque. Via Veneto is tra-
ditionally home to Rome's fanciest five-stars, and is somewhere to
consider if you’re looking for some old-world luxury, though much
trendier these days are the cobbled lanes of the Monti district, a
stone’s throw from the Colosseum. You’ll feel more in the thick of
things in the Tridente area near the Spanish Steps or in the centro
storico and around Campo de’ Fiori, from where you can walk just
about everywhere. Across the river, Prati is a pleasant, well-heeled
neighbourhood handy for the Vatican. Trastevere is close to the
main sights, quiet by day and lively after dark.
All accommodation prices in this service and knockout views of the city
chapter are for the cheapest double from the roof and the Pantheon from
room in high season but remember some of the rooms. €340
that rates are very much driven by
CESÀRI > Via di Pietra 89a, Bus 116
demand – never be afraid to ask for T 06.674.9701, W www.albergocesari.
a better rate; they can only say no.
it. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP F14. In a
Breakfast is included in all but the
perfect position close to the Pantheon,
five-stars, where you can expect to
this has been a hotel since 1787 – as
be charged an extra €28–38. Book
they will be sure to tell you – with the
in advance if you want to snag a
new addition of the Stendhal Room
bargain, especially when the city is
named for their most famous former
at its busiest (March–July, Sept, Oct
guest. The quiet, comfortable rooms are
and Christmas). If you arrive without
elegant and modern, and you can enjoy
a reservation, Enjoy Rome is your best
the roof terrace at breakfast and for
bet (see p.183), while the free Hotel
drinks on summer evenings. €136
Reservation Service, by platform 24
in Termini train station, can check DUE TORRI > Vicolo del Leonetto
vacancies for you (daily 7am–10pm, or 23, Bus 116 T 06.6880.6956, W www.
call T 06.699.1000). It’s worth looking hotelduetorriroma.com. MAP P.36–37,
online for discounts – try W www. POCKET MAP E14. Cosy little hotel
venere.com (T 0845.602.7990). tucked away in a great location in a
warren of streets a couple of minutes
centro storico from Piazza Navona. Once a residence
for cardinals, then a brothel, some
ALBERGO DEL SENATO > rooms are on the small side but have
Piazza della Rotonda 73, Bus been well renovated, and there’s a
116 T 06.678.4343, W www. comfy reception area, though breakfast
albergodelsenato.it. MAP P.36–37, is on the meagre side. Family rooms
POCKET MAP E15. A classy choice available too. €230
next door to the Pantheon, with friendly
164
NAVONA > Via dei Sediari 8, Bus 492 RESIDENZA CANALI > Via dei Tre
T 06.6821.1392, W www.hotelnavona. Archi 13, Bus 492 T 06.4543.9416,
com. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP E15. W www.residenzacanali.com. MAP
Constructed on the site of the ancient P.36–37, POCKET MAP D14. Tucked
Baths of Agrippa, this is a moderately away on a side street just a 3min walk

HOTELS
priced hotel located between the from Piazza Navona, this family-run
Pantheon and Piazza Navona – really hotel is hard to beat for location
you couldn’t ask for a better location if and service. The bright rooms, with
you want to be in the centre of Rome. wood-beamed ceilings and modern
Rooms are decently furnished, with en-suite bathrooms, are great value
their own bathrooms, the welcome is too, especially rooms 1 and 2, each
warm, and for the money you can’t with their own terrace. Note that there
go wrong. They also rent apartments are several flights of stairs – and no
nearby and have a slightly more lift. €210
upmarket sister hotel, the Zanardelli
SANTA CHIARA > Via Santa Chiara
(see below). €145
21, Bus 116 T 06.687.2979, W www.
PORTOGHESI > Via dei Portoghesi albergosantachiara.com. MAP
1, Bus 116 T 06.686.4231, W www. P.36–37, POCKET MAP E15. Though a
hotelportoghesiroma.com. MAP rather bland, business-class hotel, the
P.36–37, POCKET MAP E14. Decent and Santa Chiara’s location is undeniably
well-equipped modern rooms 5min superb: on a quiet piazza right behind
from most centro storico attractions. the Pantheon. Some of the rooms
Breakfast is served on the roof terrace overlook the church of Santa Maria
upstairs. It’s worth paying a little extra sopra Minerva. €280
for one of the roomier junior suites
TEATRO PACE 33 > Via del Teatro
(€230). €200
Pace 33, Bus 64 T 06.687.9075,
RAPHAËL > Largo Febo 2, Bus 64 W www.hotelteatropace.com. MAP
T 06.682.831, W www.raphaelhotel. P.36–37, POCKET MAP D15. This
com. MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP D14. beautifully restored palazzo, a few
Set on a quiet, picturesque piazza just paces from Piazza Navona, was once
off Piazza Navona, the Raphaël is a mix home to one of the Vatican’s most
of plush traditional style – antiques and prominent cardinals. Leading off an
rich colours – and sleek contemporary impressive Baroque spiral staircase (no
furnishings on the second and third lift) are four floors of elegant, spacious
floors, designed by American architect rooms with original wood beams,
Richard Meier (of Ara Pacis fame). floor-sweeping drapes and luxurious
There’s also a rooftop terrace – one bathrooms. €210
of Rome’s loveliest – where you can
try to identify the city’s domes over a
cocktail. €348

Apartments and B&Bs

few hotels rent out apartments, and a number of agencies

A specialize in short lets. One of the best is At Home, Via Margutta 13

(T 06.3212.0102, W www.at-home-italy.com). Cross-Pollinate (W www.
cross-pollinate.com), run by the owners of The Beehive (see p.170), is a good
source of budget apartments; W www.romecityapartments.com and W www.
aplaceinrome.com are also worth a browse. See W www.b-b.rm.it for a good
range of B&Bs all over the city. Prices start relatively low – around €50–60
for a double – with the more upscale options going for up to €140.
165
 ZANARDELLI > Via G. Zanardelli 7, SOLE > Via del Biscione 76, Bus 64
Bus 492 T 06.6821.1392, W www. T 06.687.9446, W www.solealbiscione.
hotelnavona.com. MAP P.36–37, POCKET it. MAP P.52–53, POCKET MAP D16. With
MAP D14. Run by the same family as an enviable location – almost overlooking
the Navona (see p.165) – this is the very Campo de’ Fiori – this hotel has been
HOTELS AND B&Bs

slightly more lavish alternative. Located in the same family for generations. The
just north of Piazza Navona, the building rooms are simple but pleasant, and
used to be a papal residence and has there are several roof terraces with
many original fixtures and furnishings. spectacular views of the domed churches
The rooms are elegant, but still decently of Sant’Andrea delle Valle and San Carlo
priced, especially considering the ai Catinari. Rooms with shared bathroom
location. €145 cost less, but it’s worth splashing out on
one of those on the top-floor terrace for
€160. €110
Campo de’ Fiori and the ST GEORGE > Via Giulia 62, Bus 40
T 06.686.611, W www.stgeorgehotel.it.
Ghetto MAP P.36–37, POCKET MAP C15. Modern
CAMPO DE’ FIORI > Via del Biscione design, technology and style are the
6, Bus 64 T 06.6880.6865, W www. trademarks of this new five-star on one
hotelcampodefiori.com. MAP P.52–53, of Rome’s most enchanting streets, with
POCKET MAP D16. A friendly place in a ultra-luxurious rooms that may scupper
good location just off Campo de’ Fiori your sightseeing plans. There’s a superb
with 23 individually designed rooms, spa too. Check the website for off-season
each a different colour. The sixth-floor deals. €360
roof terrace has great views and the
hotel owns a number of recently restored
apartments nearby if you’re keen to The Tridente, Trevi and
self-cater (from €180 for two, €240 for
four). €230 Quirinale
FORTYSEVEN > Via Petroselli ALEPH > Via di San Basilio 15,
47, Bus H T 06.678.7816, W www. M Barberini, T 06.422.901, W www.
fortysevenhotel.com. MAP P.52–53, aleph.boscolohotels.com. MAP P.76–77,
POCKET MAP F17. Tasteful, elegant POCKET MAP G3. The epitome of Rome’s
rooms above the ancient cattle market recent hotel makeover, the Aleph is all
just outside the Ghetto. Within striking unashamed luxury, with over-the-top
distance of the Forum, Trastevere and decor and a suitably fashionable
the Ghetto, it has a fitness centre and a clientele. The best rooms are on the top
rooftop bar and restaurant too. €220 floor, where there’s also a terrace bar and
restaurant. €310
RESIDENZA FARNESE >
Via del Mascherone 59, Bus DEI BORGOGNONI > Via del Bufalo
64 T 06.6821.0980, W www. 126, Bus 175 T 06.6994.1505,
residenzafarneseroma.it. MAP P.52–53, W www.hotelborgognoni.it. MAP
POCKET MAP D16. Situated on a quiet P.76–77, POCKET MAP F13. Nicely
side street right by the Palazzo Farnese, situated four-star that has pleasant,
this hotel has tastefully appointed well-renovated rooms. A surprisingly
rooms and helpful staff. The location large hotel, considering its location
is excellent too – it’s great for both down a side street not far from Piazza di
the centro storico and Trastevere, just Spagna, and handy for this part of town
across the water by way of the Ponte and for the centro storico. €287
Sisto footbridge. Do ask, though, to
see several rooms – they vary a lot and
some can be on the small side. €190

166
CASA HOWARD > Via Capo le EVA’S ROOMS > Via dei Due Macelli
Case 18 ; Via Sistina 149 M Spagna 31 M Spagna T 06.6919.0078, W www.
T 06.6992.4555, W www.casahoward. evasrooms.com. MAP P.76–77, POCKET
com. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP G13. MAP G13. A great location – just a
This small boutique hotel offers a series 2min walk from the Spanish Steps – is

HOTELS AND B&BS

of themed rooms, varying considerably this B&B’s main draw, but that’s not all:
in price, in two locations, one close rooms are large and cosily furnished,
to Piazza di Spagna, the other just off and the soaring ceiling of the junior
Piazza Barberini. Rooms are on the suite is decorated with frescoes. If you
small side, but elegantly and stylishly don’t mind sacrificing a few frills –
furnished; service is very personal and breakfast is far from sumptuous, and
welcoming and there’s free wi-fi in each the decor is a little tired – this is a
room. Breakfast is served to you in your bargain, with rooms as low as €118 in
room. €170 the off-season. €150
CASA MONTANI > Piazzale Flaminio HASSLER > Piazza Trinità dei Monti
9 M Flaminio T 06.326.00421, W www. 6 M Spagna T 06.699.340, W www.
casamontani.com. MAP P.76–77, hotelhasslerroma.com. MAP P.76–77,
POCKET MAP E2. This self-styled “luxury POCKET MAP F3. You can’t get much
town house” is a boutique hotel with a closer to the heart of Rome than this
personal feel. The rooms – all designed – and you certainly can’t get a much
by the owners, a friendly French-Italian better view. Situated right at the top of
couple – are decked out in a chic palette the Spanish Steps, this luxury hotel has
of neutrals, with touches of luxury: elegant rooms and every convenience a
designer bathrooms, wide-screen TVs and guest could possibly require. €605
breakfast served on fine porcelain. The
HOMS > Via della Vite 71/72 M Spagna
five rooms are rightly popular – book well T 06.679.2976, W www.hotelhoms.
ahead. €200
it. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP F13. Slap
CONDOTTI > Via Mario de’ Fiori 37, bang in the core of the high-fashion
M Spagna T 06.679.4661, W www. shopping district near the Spanish Steps,
condottigrouphotels.com. MAP P.76–77, this hotel boasts a roof terrace with
POCKET MAP E3. This cosy and inviting marvellous views, lovely rooms that have
three-star, with comfortable rooms and recently been refurbished and a friendly
cheery, welcoming staff, now has three atmosphere – something that’s not
other locations nearby (reception for all always guaranteed in the hotels of this
is at the Condotti). The most appealing of neighbourhood. €140
these is the Condotti Palace at Via della
HOTEL ART > Via Margutta 56,
Croce 15, whose luxury suites have a M Spagna T 06.328.711, W www.
refined, elegant feel. €234
hotelart.it. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP
DAPHNE > Via di San Basilio 55; E3. Tucked away on Via Margutta, this
Via degli Avigonesi 20 M Spagna, luxury hotel – an expanded church
T 06.8745.0086, W www. chapel – features contemporary art
daphne-rome.com. MAP P.76–77, and innovative design. It has a wide
POCKET, MAP F4. Welcoming place range of amenities, including a Turkish
in two locations either side of Piazza bath, gym, spa, and a cathedral-like
Barberini, run by an American woman bar. €290
and her Roman husband. Most of the
rooms are bright, modern and spacious,
and you can choose between shared
bathrooms and en-suite. €150

167
 Our Picks
BUDGET CHOICE The Beehive > see p.170
CENTRAL HOTEL Navona > see p.165
BOUTIQUE Casa Montani > see p.167
HOTELS AND B&Bs

ROOM WITH A VIEW Hassler > see p.167

ROMANCE Casa Howard > see p.167
CELEBS De Russie > see p.169
LUXURY Portrait Suites > see p.169

D’INGHILTERRA > Via Bocca di Leone IL PALAZZETTO > Vicolo del Bottino
14 M Spagna T 06.699.811, W www. 8 M Spagna T 06.6993.41000, W www.
royaldemeure.com. MAP P.76–77, POCKET ilpalazzettoroma.com. MAP P.76–77,
MAP F13. This old favourite, formerly the POCKET MAP F3. Elegant hotel with
apartments of the princes of Torlonia, just four rooms, all differently designed
has been given a striking makeover, in chic monochrome. It also runs
incorporating chic design touches while wine courses in association with the
retaining an old-world elegance. Rooms International Wine Academy and has
are furnished with antiques and have a distinguished restaurant and rooftop
Murano glass chandeliers and opulent bar. Guests can use the facilities of the
marble bathrooms. Breakfast is an extra Hassler too (see p.167). €286
€28. €300
PIAZZA DI SPAGNA > Via Mario de’
MODIGLIANI > Via della Purifacazione Fiori 61 M Spagna T 06.679.3061,
42 M Barberini T 06.4281.5226, W www. W www.hotelpiazzadispagna.it. MAP
hotelmodigliani.com. MAP P.76–77, P.76–77, POCKET MAP F3. This small
POCKET MAP F3. A young artist couple run hotel, just a few minutes’ walk from the
this modern hotel on a quiet street just off Spanish Steps, is a good alternative to
Piazza Barberini. Rooms are comfortable, the opulent palaces that dominate the
and have a/c. Splash out on a superior area. Rooms are comfortable, and all
room – they have views of St Peter’s. have a/c. Friendly staff too. €210
There’s a small garden courtyard. €210

168
PLAZA > Via del Corso 126 M Spagna Venezia – this aristocratic villa is one of
T 06.674.95, W www.grandhotelplaza. Rome’s most luxurious accommodation
com. MAP P.76–77, POCKET MAP F13. options. The twelve rooms are impeccably
One of the most sumptuous hotels in furnished with antiques, and the common
Rome, with huge rooms furnished with areas – including a lovely garden – exude

HOTELS AND B&BS

antiques and a fantastic lobby that’s an aura of exclusivity. €462
worth dropping by to see even if you’re
not staying here. The rooms have been
updated and have everything you might The Esquiline, Monti
need, including wi-fi. Rates are lower
than you would expect for the atmosphere and Termini
and location. €295 ALPI > Via Castelfidardo 84 M Termini
PORTRAIT SUITES > Via Bocca di T 06.444.1235, W www.hotelalpi.com.
Leone 23 M Spagna T 06.6938.0742, MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP J3. One of
W www.lungarnohotels.com. MAP the more peaceful hotels close to Termini,
P.76–77, POCKET MAP E3. A relative with pleasant (if somewhat small) rooms,
newcomer to the boutique hotel circuit, a terrace and a great buffet breakfast –
this converted town house with 13 better than you would normally expect
rooms, owned and designed by fashion from a hotel in this bracket. €170
designer Salvatore Ferragamo, is a
DES ARTISTES > Via Villafranca 20
bastion of luxury and comfort. Prices M Castro Pretorio T 06.445.4365,
are high – but the suites are superbly W www.hoteldesartistes.com. MAP
appointed, and there’s a lovely rooftop P.92–93, POCKET MAP J3. Exceptionally
bar. €570 good value, spotlessly clean and with a
LA RESIDENZA > Via Emilia 22 wide range of rooms, including dorm beds
M Barberini T 06.488.0789, W www. for around €25. Doubles are available with
hotel-la-residenza.com. MAP P.76–77, and without en-suite facilities. You can eat
POCKET MAP G3. A great option in the breakfast or recover from a long day of
overpriced Via Veneto area, this place sightseeing on the lovely roof terrace. €95
combines the luxuries and atmosphere ARTORIUS > Via del Boschetto
of a grand hotel with the easy-going 13, Bus 64 T 06.482.1196, W www.
comforts and intimacy of a private home. hotelartoriusrome.com. MAP P.92–93,
It’s set off the busy main drag and is very POCKET MAP G5. On a cobbled Monti
tranquil. €170 street and with just ten rooms, the
DE RUSSIE > Via del Babuino 9 family-run Artorius is an appealing
M Flaminio T 06.328.881, W www. mid-range option. The attractive courtyard
hotelderussie.it. MAP P.76–77, POCKET makes a pleasant spot for breakfast in
MAP E2. Coolly elegant and gorgeously fine weather, and for drinks after dark.
understated, this hotel’s emphasis on €185
comfort and quality, not to mention
DUCA D’ALBA > Via Leonina 14,
its stellar location just off Piazza del
Bus 84 T 06.484.471, W www.
Popolo, make it first choice for the hotelducadalba.com. MAP P.92–93,
hip traveller spending someone else’s POCKET MAP G5. A reliable three-star in
money – it’s popular among visiting the heart of Monti, just steps from the
movie stars. €670 district’s best restaurants and nightlife.
VILLA SPALLETTI TRIVELLI > Via All of the attractively furnished rooms
Piacenza 4, Bus 64 T 06.4890.7934, have en-suite bathrooms and a/c, and
W www.villaspalletti.it. MAP P.76–77, some have balconies. Rooms are heavily
POCKET MAP G4. In a fantastic location discounted in low season. €188
– a five-minute walk from Piazza

169
 GRIFO > Via del Boschetto 144, Bus 64 old-fashioned feel; it’s worth paying the
T 06.487.1395, W www.hotelgrifo.com. extra for a spacious junior suite (€280),
MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP G5. Right in with hydromassage bath. Staff are
the heart of Monti, this well-established extremely friendly. €240
hotel has simple, classically decorated
SUITE DREAMS > Via Modena 5
HOTELS AND B&Bs

rooms and a terrace overlooking a M Repubblica T 06.4891.3907, W www.

scene of medieval Rome at its most
suitedreams.it. MAP P.92–93, POCKET
picturesque. Rates can dip as low as €99
MAP G4. The rooms at this recently opened
in low season. €124
hotel are simple but stylish, with generous
NICOLAS INN > Via Cavour 295 bathrooms, but it’s the attention to detail
M Cavour T 06.9761.8483, W www. and friendly customer care that really stand
nicolasinn.com. MAP P.92–93, out. Services such as a DVD library for
POCKET MAP G5. A brief stroll from guests’ use are an unexpected bonus in this
the Colosseum, this B&B is run by a price bracket. €180
friendly American-Italian couple, who
THE BEEHIVE > Via Marghera 8
are keen to make guests feel at home. M Termini T 06.4470.4553, W www.
The rooms are a good size, spotless and
the-beehive.com. MAP P.92–93, POCKET
elegant. Breakfast is served in a nearby
MAP J4.“Hotel, Café, Art” is the slogan of
bar. €180
this ecological – and economical – hotel
PALAZZETTO DEGLI ARTISTI > run by an American couple. The doubles –
Via della Madonna dei Monti 108 all of which share bathrooms – are basic
M Cavour T 06.6992.4931, W www. but stylishly decorated; more spartan
palazzettodegliartisti.com. MAP dorms go for €25 a head, and you can also
P.92–93, POCKET MAP G5. These stay in one of three nearby apartments
mini-apartments, on the edge of the Monti for €35 per person. There is free internet
district, are an exercise in sophisticated, access, and a restaurant that serves
pared-down minimalism, but they’re vegetarian breakfast, lunch and dinner
practical too: attached kitchens with daily. €80
all mod cons make this a good choice
VILLA DELLE ROSE > Via Vicenza
for those who want the option of
5 M Termini T 06.445.1788, W www.
self-catering, with the comfort and
villadellerose.it. MAP P.92–93, POCKET
services of a four-star hotel. The suites
MAP J4. This centuries-old villa sits
are pricey, but offer knockout views of the
amidst its own tranquil rose gardens,
Roman Forum. €140
belying the fact that it’s only a block from
RADISSON BLU ES > Via F. Turati Termini train station. The decor is a little
171 M Termini T 06.444.841, W www. tired, but it has bags of old-world charm,
radissonblu.com. MAP P.92–93, POCKET and staff are friendly. Ask for one of the
MAP J5. Launched a few years ago as one rooms with a terrace. €108
of Rome’s new designer hotels, the rooms
YES HOTEL > Via Magenta 15 M Termini
here are cool, stylish and minimalist. T 06.4436.3836, W www.yeshotelrome.
Though it attracts a largely business
com. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP H4.
clientele, don’t be put off: the rates are
The location – just down the road from
much lower than you would expect for
Termini – might not be brilliant, but Yes is
a hotel of this class. It also has one of
a huge step up from the grotty options that
Rome’s very few swimming pools – on the
litter the area, and you’ll pay considerably
roof. €260
less here than for a similar room in the
RESIDENZA CELLINI > Via Modena centre. Tailored to the needs of Termini’s
5, M Repubblica T 06.4782.5204, business travellers – rooms are comfortable
W www.residenzacellini.it. MAP but bland. Ten percent discount for cash
P.92–93, POCKET MAP G4. The payments. €144
rooms here are large with a slightly

170
Trastevere SANTA MARIA > Vicolo del Piede
2, Bus H T 06.589.4626, W www.
CASA DI SANTA FRANCESCA hotelsantamaria.info. MAP P.124–125,
ROMANA > Via dei Vascellari 61, Bus POCKET MAP D18. Just off Piazza
H T 06.581.2125, W www.sfromana.it. Santa Maria in the heart of Trastevere,

HOTELS AND B&BS • HOSTELS

MAP P.124–125, POCKET MAP E18. This the rooms of this friendly three-star
former medieval convent has been newly surround a garden filled with lovely
restructured as a cheerful accommodation orange trees. There’s free internet
option in the quieter half of Trastevere. access, and bikes are provided for
Although the rooms are fairly institutional, guests’ use. €230
they are generally large and the courtyard TRASTEVERE > Via Luciano Manara
is very inviting. €123 24a/25, Bus H T 06.581.4713, W www.
CISTERNA > Via della Cisterna hoteltrastevere.net. MAP P.124–125,
7–9, Bus H T 06.581.7212, W www. POCKET MAP C18. A good choice if you
cisternahotel.it. MAP P.124–125, want to be in the heart of Trastevere,
POCKET MAP D18. This friendly three-star with nicely decorated – though small –
in an elegant palazzo is bang in the middle doubles, and apartments to rent for up to
of Trastevere. The nineteen rooms, some five people. Request a room overlooking
with colourful tiled floors and wooden the little piazza, rather than the interior
beamed ceilings, have a homely feel. courtyard. €103
€140
RESIDENZA ARCO DE’ TOLOMEI Vatican
> Via Arco de’ Tolomei 27, Bus AMALIA > Via Germanico 66
H T 06.5832.0819, W www. M Ottaviano T 06.3972.3356, W www.
arcodeitolomei.com. MAP P.124–125, hotelamalia.com. MAP P.142–143,
POCKET MAP E18. In an attractively POCKET MAP B3. Located not far from
crumbling palazzo on Trastevere’s the Vatican, this place has bright, nicely
quieter, eastern side, this old-world B&B renovated double rooms with generous
is full of antiques passed down from en-suite bathrooms. Rates can go as low
generation to generation of the Italian as €99 in low season. Don’t be misled
owners’ family, but the atmosphere by the website – it’s nowhere near the
is anything but stuffy. The generous Spanish Steps. €196
breakfast is served in the conservatory.
€200 BRAMANTE > Vicolo delle Palline
24, Bus 40 T 06.6880.6426, W www.
RESIDENZA SANTA MARIA > hotelbramante.com. MAP P.142–143,
Via dell’Arco di San Calisto 20, POCKET MAP A3. This little hotel, located
Bus H T 06.5833.5103, W www. right next to the ancient wall running
residenzasantamaria.com. MAP from the Vatican to Castel Sant’Angelo,
P.124–125, POCKET MAP D18. In an has charming rooms with original
eighteenth-century building – which once wood-beamed ceilings and antiques.
housed crafts workshops – this intimate €230
hotel has been attractively restored,
with features such as brick arches, COLORS > Via Boezio 31 M Ottaviano,
T 06.687.4030, W www.colorshotel.
wood-beamed ceilings and an internal
courtyard giving it a welcoming feel. It’s com. MAP P.142–143, POCKET MAP C3.
especially recommended for families: This hostel/hotel in a quiet neighbourhood
four of the six rooms are triples or quads. near the Vatican provides kitchen
€230 facilities, a lounge with satellite TV and a
small roof terrace. Doubles are available
both en-suite and with shared facilities,
and there are dorm beds (€27) too. €80

171
 DEI CONSOLI > Via Varrone 2d, GIULIO CESARE > Via degli Scipioni
M Ottaviano T 06.6889.2972, W www. 287 M Lepanto T 06.321.0751, W www.
hoteldeiconsoli.com. MAP P.142–143, hotelgiuliocesare.com. MAP P.142–143,
POCKET MAP C3. From the elegantly POCKET MAP D2. This charming hotel is no
welcoming entrance to the thoughtfully longer the Villa Patricia, home of an Italian
HOTELS AND B&Bs

designed rooms, this is an excellent countess, but you may feel like royalty once
choice near the Vatican. €260 you step into the foyer, with its glistening
golden ceiling. Friendly staff lead you down
FRANKLIN >Via Rodi 29 T 06.39030165,
W www.franklinhotelrome.it. MAP
mirror-lined hallways to elegant rooms with
marble bathrooms. €159
P.142–143, POCKET MAP B2. The central
theme here is music: don’t be surprised LA ROVERE > Vicolo S. Onofrio 4–5,
to find a snare drum for a night table or a Bus 64 T 06.6880.6739, W www.
disco ball in the bathroom. Rooms come hotellarovere.com. MAP P.142–143,
equipped with Bang & Olufsen stereos and POCKET MAP B15. Just across the bridge
you can choose from a library of hundreds from Piazza Navona, this attractive hotel
of CDs. €230 is tucked away from Rome’s bustle, and
offers a terrace garden and antique-filled
setting for its guests to relax in. €185

172
Hostels
There are some privately run hostels alongside the official
Hostelling International locations. For dorm accommodation, see

HOTELS AND B&BS

also Des Artistes (p.169), The Beehive (p.170) and Colors (p.171).
ALESSANDRO PALACE HOSTEL > Via OTTAVIANO > Via Ottaviano,
Vicenza 42, M Termini T 06.581.2125, M Ottaviano T 06.3973.8138,
W www.sfromana.it. MAP P.92–93, W www.pensioneottaviano.com. MAP
POCKET MAP J3. This place has been P.142–143, POCKET MAP B3. A simple
voted one of the top hostels in Europe, pensione-cum-hostel near to the Vatican
and it sparkles with creative style. Pluses that is very popular with backpackers;
include no lock-out or curfew, a good bar book well in advance. Dorm beds €20–26.
with free pizza every night, and internet
SANDY > Via Cavour 136, M Cavour,
access and satellite TV. Beds cost €25–35; T 06.488.4585, W www.sandyhostel.
doubles with shared bath are €85. A few
com. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP G5.
blocks away on the other side of Termini,
Good-value hostel near the Colosseum.
Alessandro Downtown, Via C. Cattaneo 23
Dorms €21–33, private en-suite doubles
(T 06.4434.0147), also has dorm beds,
€90.
from €20.
YWCA > Via C. Balbo 4 M Termini
FUNNY PALACE > Via Varese 33, T 06.488.0460, W www.ywca-ucdg.
M Termini T 06.4470.3523, W www.
it. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP H4. Open
funnyhostel.com. MAP P.92–93, POCKET
to women and men, and situated a 10min
MAP J4. Spread over three buildings, this
walk from Termini, although the market
hostel may lack a lively common area but
outside may get you up earlier than you
the four-person dorms are comfortable,
intended. Small dorms €28, singles from
with parquet floors and decent beds.
€40, doubles from €66. Curfew midnight.
Dorms €25, rooms €100.
Breakfast included (except on Sun); lunch
M&J PLACE > Via Solferino 9 M Termini is available for €12 (booking required).
T 06.446.2802, W www.mejplacehostel.
com. MAP P.92–93, POCKET MAP H4.
Quirky murals of Rome decorate the walls of
this popular hostel, whose dorms sleep up
to ten people. It’s conveniently located above
the Living Room club. Dorms €20–32.50,
private ensuite doubles €100.
OSTELLO DEL FORO ITALICO > Viale
delle Olimpiadi 61, Bus #32, 224,
280 or 628 T 06.323.6267, W www.
ostellodiroma.it. MAP P.134–135,
POCKET MAP C1. Rome’s official youth
hostel, though not especially central or
easy to reach from Termini. Call ahead
to check out availability, but they won’t
take phone bookings. You can join here
if you’re not a HI member already (€6).
Beds cost €19, including breakfast.
Other meals are also served.

173
 1.15am to 3.30pm (7pm at weekends)
Arrival to Piazza dei Cinquecento (€4.50;
W www.cotralspa.it), while SIT bus
Arriving in Rome is a painless services run every half hour from
experience if you’re travelling by air, 8.30am to 11.30pm to Via Marsala
ARRIVAL

by train or even by bus, although (€8; W www.sitbusshuttle.it). Both

negotiating the city’s outskirts by take 40 minutes.
car is something you might want to
avoid. Ciampino airport
Terravision (W www.terravision.eu)
By air and SIT bus (W www.sitbusshuttle.it)
Rome has two airports: Leonardo da run shuttle services to Termini, which
Vinci, better known simply as Fiumi- leave roughly every 30 minutes and
cino, which handles most scheduled cost €8 return. They pull up on Via
flights, and Ciampino, where you’ll Marsala, right by the station (journey
arrive if you’re travelling on a charter time around 45 minutes). Otherwise
or with one of the low-cost European ATRAL buses (W www.atral-lazio.com)
airlines. Information on both airports run to Via Giolitti, on the south side
is available at  06.65951, W www. of Termini, every 50min–1hr (€4.50).
adr.it. If you don’t want to get off at Termini,
Fiumicinoairport and are staying near a metro stop on
Fiumicino is connected to the centre the A line (near the Spanish Steps or
of Rome by direct trains, which make Via Veneto areas, for example), you
the thirty-minute ride to Termini could take an ATRAL bus (€1.20) from
for €11; services run at 6min and the airport to Anagnina metro station
36min past the hour (first train at at the end of metro Line A, and take a
6.36am, last train at 11.36pm). In the metro from there to your destination
other direction, trains run at 22min (€1). Taxis to and from the airport
and 52min past the hour (first train cost a fixed-rate €30 and take about
5.52am, last train at 10.52pm). Be thirty minutes.
aware, though, when leaving Rome, By train
that the Fiumicino platform at Most Italian and international trains
Termini station is a good five-minute arrive in Rome at Termini station,
schlep from the main part of the centrally placed for all parts of the
railway station. Alternatively, there city and the meeting point of the
are trains every 15min to Trastevere, two metro lines and many city bus
Ostiense and Tiburtina stations, each routes. Tiburtina (see below) is a
on the edge of the city centre, from stop for some north–south intercity
5.57am to 11.27pm; tickets to these trains. For general enquiries about
stations cost less (€5.50) and Ti- schedules and prices, call  892.021
burtina and Ostiense are just a short (24hr), or check W www.trenitalia.it.
(€1) metro ride from Termini. You can
also catch bus #175 from Ostiense, By bus
or #492 or #649 from Tiburtina, to Most national and international serv-
the centre of town (again €1). Taxis ices stop at Tiburtina, Rome’s second
for the 45-minute journey to and from railway terminal after Termini, which
the airport cost a fixed-rate €40. Two is connected to the city centre by
buses go from the airport to Termini. metro line B or buses #492 or #649.
COTRAL have 7–8 services a day from Other bus stations, mainly serving
176
the Lazio region, include Ponte Mam-
molo (trains from Tivoli and Subiaco),
Lepanto (Cerveteri, Civitavecchia,
Getting around
Bracciano area), EUR Fermi (Nettuno, The best way to get around is to walk
Anzio, southern Lazio coast) and – you’ll see more and will better

GETTING AROUND
Anagnina (Castelli Romani); all of appreciate the city. However, you
these stations are on a metro line. may need to take public transport
to get around quickly or reach the
By car more outlying attractions, and the
Driving into Rome can be quite network is good – a largely efficient
confusing and is best avoided unless blend of buses, a two-line metro and
you’re used to driving in Italy and know a few trams. ATAC runs the city’s bus,
where you’re going to park (see p.180). tram and metro service. There’s an
Note that non-residents aren’t allowed information office in the centre of Pi-
to drive in the centro storico area. azza dei Cinquecento outside Termini
It’s usually best to get on the Grande station; their website, W www.atac.
Raccordo Anulare (GRA), which circles roma.it, has information in English
Rome and is connected with all of the and a route planner.
major arteries into the city centre – the
Via Cassia from the north, Via Salaria Buses and trams
from the northeast, Via Tiburtina or Via Buses are cheap, reliable and as
Nomentana from the east, Via Prenes- quick as the clogged streets allow
tina and Via Casilina or Via Cristoforo (see box on p.179 for useful bus
Colombo from the southeast, Via Appia routes). Remember to board through
Nuova and the Pontina from the south, the rear doors and punch your ticket
and Via Aurelia from the northwest. as you enter. There is also a small
From Ciampino, either follow Via Appia network of electric minibuses that
Nuova into the centre or join the GRA negotiate the narrow backstreets
at junction 23 and follow the signs of the old centre and a few trams,
to the centre. From Fiumicino, just mainly serving outlying areas. After
follow the A12 motorway into the city midnight, night buses (bus notturni)
centre; it crosses the river just north serve most parts of the city through
of EUR, from where it’s a short drive to about 5.30am; some have ticket
north up Via Cristoforo Colombo to the machines on board but it’s best to
city walls and, beyond, to the Baths of buy one before boarding.
Caracalla.

Tickets and travel cards

lat-fare tickets cost €1 each and are good for any number of bus and

F tram rides and one metro ride within 75 minutes of validation. Buy
them from tobacconists, newsstands and ticket machines located in
all metro stations and at major bus stops, and validate them in the yellow
machines on buses, trams and at the entrance gates in metro stations. You
can also get a day pass, valid on all city transport until midnight on the
day purchased, for €4, a three-day pass for €11, or a seven-day pass for
€16. Alternatively, you can travel on public transport for free with the Roma
Pass (see p.183). A warning: there are hefty spot fines (€50–100) for fare-
dodging, and pleading a foreigner’s ignorance will get you nowhere.

177
 Metro are stops at Domine Quo Vadis, the
Rome’s metro (W www.metroroma. Catacombs of San Callisto and San
it) runs from 5.30am to 11.30pm Sebastiano, Villa of Maxentius, the
(12.30am Sat), and although its two Roman aqueducts and the Villa
lines – A (red) and B (blue) – don’t dei Quintili. Buses run daily every
GETTING AROUND

cover large parts of the city centre, thirty minutes between 8.30am and
there are a few useful city-centre 4.30pm. Tickets cost €15, and
stations: Termini is the hub of both integrated tickets are available,
lines, and there are stops at the including the #110 bus and various
Colosseum, Piazza Barberini, Piazza museums, with different lengths of
di Spagna and Ottaviano (for the validity. Buy on board, or at Piazza dei
Vatican). They’re working on line C, Cinquecento.
projected for completion in 2015 at Roma Cristiana The Vatican’s
the earliest. tourist bus service links Rome’s
major basilicas and other Christian
Tourist buses sights, starting in Piazza dei Cinque-
Many tourist buses circle Rome and cento. Services run daily every 30min
its major sights – see the three best between 9am and 7pm, and tickets
options below. All start from outside cost €16 for 24 hours; buy on board,
Termini, and combined tickets are at Piazza dei Cinquecento or at PIT
available for the first two. information kiosks.
Bus #110  800.281.281, W www.
trambusopen.com. Good for a quick Walking tours
glance at the sights, this ATAC-run Entrance fees are generally not
open-top bus has a guided com- included in the price of tours,
mentary. It leaves from Piazza dei so check costs before booking.
Cinquecento outside Termini station Enjoy Rome (see p.183) is the best
and stops at all the major sights. The operator, offering three-hour tours
trip takes two hours, and in summer to groups (maximum 25 people).
departures are every 20min from Most popular are the tours of the
8.30am until 8.30pm daily (including ancient sights and the highlights
hols & Sun). Tickets cost €20 and of the centro storico (€27, or €22
allow you to get on wherever you like for under-26-year-olds). Context
and hop on and off during a 24-hour Rome ( 06.9762.5204, W www.
period. Combined #110 and Archeo- contexttravel.com; from €55 per
bus (see below) tickets cost €30 for person) specializes in small-group
48 hours. Tickets can be bought on tours led by Ph.D-level historians
board, or before you get on at Piazza and architects. London-born Agnes
dei Cinquecento. Crawford runs private tours and
Archeobus  800.281.281, W www. creates tailor-made itineraries to suit
trambusopen.com. A hop-on-hop-off individual interests ( 338.1984.375,
service, linking the most compelling W www.understandingrome.com;
monuments on and around the Via about €150/3hr).
Appia Antica. It starts at Piazza dei
Cinquecento, before heading down Nightbuses
to the southern edge of the city via
#N1 follows metro line A; #N2
Piazza Venezia, Piazza Bocca della
calls at all stops along metro line
Verità, Circo Massimo and the Porta
B; and #N8 runs from Trastevere
San Sebastiano. On Via Appia, there
to Termini station.
178
Useful bus and tram routes
#3 Stazione Trastevere–Via Marmorata–Piramide–Circo Massimo–Colosseum–
San Giovanni–San Lorenzo–Via Nomentana–Parioli–Viale Belle Arti.
#8 Tram Largo Argentina–Via Arenula–Piazza Sonnino–Viale Trastevere–

GETTING AROUND
Stazione Trastevere–Casaletto
#23 Piazza Clodio–Piazza Risorgimento–Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II–Ponte
Garibaldi–Via Marmorata–Piazzale Ostiense–Centrale Montemartini–Basilica
di San Paolo.
#30 Express Piazza Clodio–Piazza Mazzini–Piazza Cavour–Corso
Rinascimento–Largo Argentina–Piazza Venezia–Luntotevere Aventino–Via
Marmorata–Piramide–Via C.Colombo–EUR.
#40 Express Termini–Via Nazionale–Piazza Venezia–Largo Argentina–Piazza
Pia.
#62 Piazza Bologna–Via Nomentana–Porta Pia–Piazza Barberini–Piazza San
Silvestro–Via del Corso–Piazza Venezia– Corso V. Emanuele II–Borgo Angelico–
Piazza Pio.
#64 Termini–Piazza della Repubblica–Via Nazionale–Piazza Venezia–Largo
Argentina–Corso Vittorio Emanuele II–Stazione San Pietro.
#75 Via Poerio (Monteverde)–Via Induno–Porta Portese–Testaccio–Piramide–
Circo Massimo–Colosseo–Via Cavour–Termini–Piazza Indipendenza.
#116 Porta Pinciana–Via Veneto–Via del Tritone–Piazza di Spagna–Piazza San
Silvestro–Corso Rinascimento–Campo de’ Fiori–Piazza Farnese–Lungotevere
Sangallo–Terminal Gianicolo.
#117 San Giovanni in Laterano–Piazza Celimontana–Via Due Macelli–Via del
Babuino–Piazza del Popolo–Via del Corso–Piazza Venezia–Via Nazionale–Via dei
Serpenti–Colosseo–Via Labicana.
#119 Piazza del Popolo–Via del Corso–Piazza Venezia–Largo Argentina–Via del
Tritone–Piazza Barberini–Via Veneto–Porta Pinciana–Piazza Barberini–Piazza di
Spagna–Via del Babuino–Piazza del Popolo.
#175 Termini–Piazza Barberini–Via del Corso–Piazza Venezia–Colosseo–Circo
Massimo–Aventine–Stazione Ostiense.
#271 S. Paolo–Via Ostiense–Piramide–Viale Aventino–Circo Massimo–
Colosseo–Piazza Venezia–Ponte Sisto–Castel Sant’Angelo–Via Vitilleschi–Piazza
Risorgimento–Ottaviano–Foro Italico.
#492 Stazione Tiburtina–Piazzale Verano–Termini–Piazza Barberini–Via del
Corso–Piazza Venezia–Largo Argentina–Corso del Rinascimento–Piazza Cavour–
Piazza Risorgimento–Cipro.
#590 Same route as metro line A but with access for disabled; runs every
90min.
#660 Largo Colli Albani–Via Appia Nuova–Via Appia Pignatelli–Via Appia
Antica.
#714 Termini–Santa Maria Maggiore–Via Merulana–San Giovanni in Laterano–
Viale Terme di Caracalla–EUR.
#910 Termini–Piazza della Repubblica–Via Piemonte–Via Pinciana (Villa
Borghese)–Piazza Euclide–Palazetto dello Sport–Piazza Mancini.

179
 Cycling Parking
The city’s new bike-sharing scheme, You can park on the street for around
run by the transport authority Atac, €1/hr (8am–8pm), or there are park-
offers a convenient way of getting ing garages in Villa Borghese (€1.70/
around. To use the service, you first hr) and in front of Termini station
GETTING AROUND

need to register at an Atac ticket (€2/hr for the first two hours, then
office (located in Termini, Spagna and €1.50/hr). There are also car parks
Ottaviano metro stations; Mon–Sat next to the terminal metro stations,
7am–8pm, Sun 8am–8pm); you from where it’s easy to get into the
will need ID and €5 to pay for an city centre.
electronic Smartcard.
To pick up a bike, you can swipe Taxis
the Smartcard against the reader of Central taxi stands (fermata dei taxi)
any of the bike stands dotted all over include Termini, Piazza Venezia, Pi-
the city. Once you’ve finished, the azza San Silvestro, Piazza di Spagna,
bike can be returned to any stand, Piazza Navona, Largo Argentina, Pi-
not necessarily the one that you azza San Pietro and Piazza Barberini.
picked it up from; you swipe your Or, call a taxi (T 06.3570,T 06.4994,
T 06.6645, or T 06.88.177), but note
card again to lock the bike in place.
Beyond the initial price of the you pay for the time it takes to get
Smartcard, it costs €0.50 per half- to you. You'll be given a call number
hour to use the service, though you for the car, usually a city and number,
have to put a minimum of €5 on your eg. “Roma 10”, “Verona 34”. Only
card; bikes can be taken out for a take licensed white cabs with the
maximum of 24 consecutive hours. “Comune di Roma” insignia on the
Cycling along Rome’s first highway door, and check the meter is on; a
and through the Caffarella Valley on card in every official taxi explains the
a Sunday is a tranquil way of seeing extra charges for luggage, late-night,
the area. The visitor centre (see box Sundays and holidays, and airport
below) also has good information in journeys. A journey from Termini to
English about suggested routes. the city centre costs around €10 and
around €15 on Sunday or at night.

Renting cars, scooters and bicycles

Cars Avis (Termini  06.481.4273, Ciampino  06.7934.0368,
Fiumicino  06.6501.1531); Europcar (Termini  06.488.2854, Ciampino
 06.7934.0387, Fiumicino  06.6501.0879); Hertz (Termini  06.474.0389,
Ciampino  06.7934.0616, Fiumicino  06.6501.1553); Maggiore (Termini
 06.488.0049, Ciampino  06.7934.0368, Fiumicino  06.6501.0678);
Sixt (Termini  06.474.0014, Ciampino  06.7934.0838, Fiumicino
 06.6595.3547).
Scooters Scooter Hire (Via Cavour 80;  06.481.5669, W www.scooterhire.it.
€30/day for scooters, €90/day for motorcycles and €12/day for bicycles).
Treno e Scooter Rent, near Track 1 in Termini station ( 06.4890.5823,
W www.trenoescooter.191.it. €10/day for bikes, €34–70/day for mopeds or
scooters).
Bicycles Appia Antica Visitor Center (Via Appia Antica 58/60;  06.512.6314,
W www.parcoappiaantica.org; €3/hr or €10/day for bicycles).

180
Directory AZ For the fire brigade, police or
ambulance, call T 113.
Cinema
Two centrally located cinemas

DIRECTORY A–Z
Tobias Wallbrecher at Via Domenico
regularly screen films in their Silveri 30 (T 06.638.0569, Mon–Fri
original language (versione originale, 9am–1pm & 4–7pm) is an English-
or v.o.): the Metropolitan at the speaking family doctor close to
Piazza del Popolo end of Via del the Vatican; Dr Andrea Chiantini at
Corso (T 06.320.0933) and the Absolute Dentistry, Via G. Pisanelli
Nuovo Olimpia at Via in Lucina 16g 1/3, has a 24-hour emergency service
(T 06.6861.1068), off Via del Corso. (T 06.3600.3837 or 339.250.7016).
Tickets cost around €7; Romac’è (see The most central hospitals with
p.183) has programme details. emergency facilities are: Fatebenefr-
Crime atelli, Isola Tiberina (T 06.683.7299);
To call the police, dial T 112. Both Rome American Hospital, Via E.
the police (Polizia Statale) and the Longoni 81 (T 06.22.551), a private
carabinieri (who wear military-style multi-speciality hospital with
uniforms) have offices in Termini. bilingual staff and a 24hr emergency
Otherwise, the questura (main police line; San Giovanni at Via A. Aradam
office) is at Via San Vitale 15, off Via 8 (T 06.49.971); Santo Spirito Lun-
Nazionale; report any thefts to the gotevere in Sassia 1, near the Vatican
police here. (T 6.68.351).
The following pharmacies areopen
Dress 24hr, year-round: Farmacia della
The rules for visiting churches are Stazione, Piazza dei Cinquecento 51
much as they are all over Italy: dress T 06.488.0019; Internazionale, Piazza
modestly, which usually means no Barberini 49 T 06.482.5456; Piram,
shorts, short skirts or bare shoulders. Via Nazionale 228 T 06.488.0754.
Electricity Internet
220 volts. Both UK and US adaptors Bibli, Via dei Fienaroli 28 (Mon
are available to buy in Italy, but the 5.30pm–midnight, Tues–Sun 11am–
latter can be expensive. midnight); Internet Train, Piazza
Sant’Andrea delle Valle 3 (Mon–Fri
Embassies and consulates 10am–11pm, Sat 10am–8pm, Sun
Australia Via Bosio 5 T 06.852.721; noon–8pm); Internet Train, Via dei
Canada Via G.B. de Rossi 30 Pastini 21 (same hours). There are
T 06.445.981; Ireland Piazza
also many internet cafés around
Campitelli 3 T 06.697.9121; New Termini station. By law, internet
Zealand Via Zara 28 T 06.441.7171; cafés will ask you to show ID such
UK Via XX Settembre 80a as a passport before allowing you to
T 06.4220.000; US Via Veneto 119a
access the internet. There are dozens
T 06.46.741.
of free wireless hotspots in the
Health city including the Circus Maximus,
AlphaMed, Via Zanardelli 36 Villa Borghese, Piazza Navona, Largo
(T 06.6830.9493; Mon–Fri 9am– Argentina, Trevi Fountain and the
8pm), is a central medical practice Spanish Steps. See W www.romawire-
with English-speaking doctors; less.com for other locations.
181
 Left luggage more flexible: most are open daily,
Termini station (daily 6am–midnight; including Sunday, from 8.30am until
€4 per piece for 5hr, €0.60 for each the evening – usually one hour before
additional hour, T 06.474.4777). sunset (changes according to the
time of year). In winter, times are
DIRECTORY A–Z

Lost property drastically cut; 4pm is a common

For property lost on a train call closing time.
T 06.4730.6682 (daily 7am–11pm); Most major Roman churches open in
on a bus T 06.6769.3214 (Mon, Wed the early morning, at around 7am or
& Fri 8.30am–1pm, Tues 8.30am– 8am, and close around noon, opening
1pm & 3–5pm, Thurs 8.30am–5pm); up again at 4pm and closing at 6pm
on Metro A T 06.487.4309 (Mon, or 7pm.
Wed, Fri 9.30am–12.30pm); on
Metro B T 06.5753.2265 (Mon–Sat Phones
7am–7pm). If you have a GSM, dual- or tri-band
phone which can be unlocked, con-
Money sider investing in an Italian SIM card,
You’ll find ATMs throughout the city. which can be bought for about €10
Nearly all hotels now accept credit from Italian providers TIM, Wind or
cards, though many restaurants are Vodafone; ask for a “SIM prepagato”.
still cash-only. To exchange money, To use public telephones, you can buy
try American Express, Piazza di telephone cards (carta telefonica)
Spagna 38 (Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm, from tabacchi and newsstands in
Sat 9am–12.30pm); or Thomas denominations of €5 and €10. You
Cook, Piazza Barberini 21a (Mon–Sat always need to dial the local code;
9am–8pm, Sun 9.30am–5pm) and T 06 is the code for Rome and
Via della Conciliazione 23 (Mon–Sat around. Numbers beginning T 800
8.30am–7.30pm, Sun 9.30am–5pm). are free, T 170 will get you through
Post offices will exchange American to an English-speaking operator,
Express travellers’ cheques and cash T 176 to international directory en-
commission-free. quiries. Any numbers that start with
For lost or stolen cards, call: a 3 are mobile numbers. To make
American Express T 06.7290.0347; long-distance calls, it’s cheaper to
MasterCard T 800.870.866; Visa buy one of the international calling
T 800.877.232.
cards, also available from tabacchi
Opening hours for upwards of €5. You can make
Most museums and galleries are international reversed-charge or
closed on Mondays. Opening hours collect calls (chiamata con addebito
for state-run museums are generally destinatario) by dialling T 170 and
from 9am until 7pm, Tuesday to following the recorded instructions.
Sunday. Most other museums roughly Post offices
follow this pattern too, although are The main post office is at Piazza San
likely to close for a couple of hours Silvestro 12 (T 06.6973.7213; Mon–
in the afternoon, and have shorter Fri 8am–7pm, Sat 8am–1.15pm).
opening hours in winter. Some
museums run late-night openings in Smoking
summer (till 10pm or later Tues–Sat, Smoking is banned in all public
or 8pm on Sun). indoor spaces in Italy, including
Opening times of ancient sites are restaurants, bars and clubs.
182
Time Repubblica (€1.50) also includes the
Rome is one hour ahead of GMT, six “TrovaRoma” section in its Thursday
hours ahead of Eastern Standard edition, another handy guide to cur-
Time, and nine hours ahead of Pacific rent offerings.
Standard Time in North America Rome’s main museum and

DIRECTORY A–Z
transport pass is the Roma Pass
Tourist information and (€25; W www.romapass.it), which
passes gives you free admission to the
There are tourist information booths first two participating museums
in Terminal B at Fiumicino (daily or archeological sites visited, and
9am–6.30pm; T 060608), in the discounts on visits elsewhere, plus
Arrivals Hall at Ciampino airport full access to public transport for
(daily 9am–6.30pm) and in Piazza dei three days. Buy it from tourist of-
Cinquecento at Termini station (daily fices, participating sights or online.
8am–8.30pm; T 060608), although Much of Rome’s ancient sculpture,
it's best to go to Enjoy Rome (Via alongside other artefacts, has
Marghera 8a; Mon–Fri 8.30am–7pm, been gathered together into the
Sat 8.30am–2pm; T 06.445.1843, Museo Nazionale Romano, which
W www.enjoyrome.com), an unofficial operates on five main sites: Palazzo
but reliable source of information Massimo, the Terme di Diocleziano,
whose English-speaking staff also run the Crypta Balbi, the Aula Ottagona
a free accommodation-finding service, and Palazzo Altemps. You can buy a
organize walking and bus tours and ticket (at each branch) that grants
can arrange shuttles to the airports. entry to all five locations for just €7
There are also green information and is valid for three days. As for
kiosks (PIT; open 9.30am–7pm) near the ancient sites, the Colosseum,
key locations around the city, such as Roman Forum and Palatine Hill are
Piazza di Spagna (Largo Goldoni), Via visitable on a combined ticket.
Nazionale (Palazzo delle Esposizioni),
Piazza Navona (Piazza delle Cinque Travellers with disabilities
Lune), Castel Sant’Angelo (Piazza Although changes are in the
Pia) and Trastevere (Piazza Sonnino). works, Rome can be quite a chal-
Rome's tourist information line lenge for those with disabilities.
T 060608 is open daily 9am–9pm; Contact the Cooperative Integrate
calls are charged at the local rate. Onlus (CO.IN), Via Enrico Giglioli
For what’s-on information, check 54a (T 06.712.9011, toll free in Ita-
out Romac’è (€1; Wed), which has lyT 800.271.027), who have English-
details of clubs, restaurants, services speaking 24-hour information on
and weekly events. The expat bi- their phone line, and produce a guide,
weekly, Wanted in Rome (€1.50 every Roma Accessible, with information
other Wed), which is written entirely on major sites, museums, hotels
in English, is useful if you’re looking and restaurants (available in person
for an apartment or work. If you from their office only). Dynamic Air
understand a bit of Italian, the daily ( info@dynamicair.it) offers the free
arts pages of the Rome newspaper, loan of medical equipment to visitors
Il Messaggero, lists movies, plays in Italy, including wheelchairs,
and major musical events, and can ventilators and oxygen tanks.
be found in most bars, or at news-
stands for €1. The newspaper La

183
 Festivals and events
Public holidays are denoted by (PH); traditionally for a picnic in the
many sights and shops, and some countryside.
FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

bars and restaurants close.

NATALE DI ROMA
NEW YEAR’S DAY (PH) April 21
Jan 1 A spectacular fireworks display set
off from the Campidoglio marks
EPIPHANY (PH) Rome’s birthday.
Jan 6
La Befana, or Epiphany, marks the FESTA DELLA PRIMAVERA
end of a Christmas fair that fills Late April
Piazza Navona from mid-December. The Spanish Steps are lined with
thousands of beautiful blooms.
CARNEVALE
Mid-Feb 10 days SETTIMANA DELLA CULTURA
Roman kids dress up and are paraded April W www.beniculturali.it
round the city by their proud parents, For one week in April, you can enter
and clubs put on themed nights. Look all state-owned museums free of
out for the carnival delicacies sold charge.
throughout the city: frappe (deep-
fried pastry strips) and castagnole LIBERATION DAY (PH)
(bite-sized pastries). April 25

ROME MARATHON LABOUR DAY (PH)

Sunday in mid-March May 1
W www.maratondiroma.it “Primo Maggio” is celebrated with
Thousands of runners take to the a free rock concert in Piazza San
streets for Rome’s annual marathon; Giovanni.
the course takes in many of the
major sights en route. ROME LITERATURE FESTIVAL
Late May–June
EASTER W www.festivaldelleletterature.it
During Holy Week, Catholics from Readings by well-known authors in
across the world descend on Rome one of the city’s most atmospheric
to witness the pope’s address. On locations, the Basilica of Maxentius
Good Friday, a solemn procession near the Roman Forum.
moves from the Colosseum to the
Capitoline Hill, while on Easter DAY OF THE REPUBLIC
Sunday the main event is the pope’s June 2
blessing in St Peter’s Square. The day is marked with a military
parade along Via dei Fori Imperiali,
PASQUETTA (PH) and the gardens of the Quirinale
Easter Monday palace are open to the public (expect
Many Romans head out of town, long queues).

184
ESTATE ROMANA FESTA DELLA MADONNA DELLA
Early June–late Sept W www.estatero- NEVE
mana.comune.roma.it Aug 5
Rome’s summer-long cultural The miracle of a summer snowfall
extravaganza includes all sorts of (see p.91) is remembered in the

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

events, from open-air film screenings Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore
to concerts in atmospheric surround- with a shower of white petals on the
ings. Many events are free. congregation.

VILLA CELIMONTANA JAZZ FERRAGOSTO (PH)

Mid-June to mid-Sept W www.villaceli- August 15
montanajazz.com On the Feast of the Assumption,
Open-air jazz performances in leafy Rome empties as locals in search of
Villa Celimontana, near the Colos- cooling breezes head for the sea and
seum. Tickets from just €3. mountains.

ROMA INCONTRA IL MONDO ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL

Mid-June to mid-Aug  www.villaada.org Late Sept–Nov W www.romaeuropa.net
An eclectic programme of pop, rock Rome’s performing arts festival
and indie concerts takes place in showcases international talents in
Villa Ada. Tickets €8–22. music, theatre and dance, in venues
around town.
TEATRO DELL’OPERA
Late June to mid-Aug W www.operaroma.it ROME INTERNATIONAL FILM
Teatro dell’Opera’s summer season FESTIVAL
takes place in the floodlit setting of 1 week mid-Oct W www.romacinemafest.it
the Baths of Caracalla. Rome’s film festival always draws
Hollywood talent. The hub of the
CONCERTI DEL TEMPIETTO festival is Rome’s Auditorium, but
June–Oct W www.tempietto.org there are venues across town.
Classical concerts with dramatic
backdrops: the ancient Roman Teatro OGNISSANTI (PH)
di Marcello and the Art Nouveau Nov 1
Casina delle Civette. On All Souls’ Day, Romans visit family
graves in the Verano cemetery in San
FESTA DI NOANTRI Lorenzo.
Mid-July
Two weeks of street performances IMMACOLATA CONCEZIONE (PH)
and events in Trastevere culminate in Dec 8
a huge fireworks display. In honour of the Immaculate Concep-
tion of the Blessed Virgin Mary, a
FESTA DELLE CATENE religious ceremony takes place in the
Aug 1 Piazza di Spagna, often attended by
The chains of St Peter are displayed the Pope.
during a special Mass in the church
of San Pietro in Vincoli. NATALE/ SANTO STEFANO (PH)
Dec 25/Dec 26

185
 31 BC > Octavian defeats Antony
Chronology and Cleopatra at the Battle of
Actium.
9th century BC > Iron Age vil-
lage founded on the Palatine Hill. 27 BC > Octavian becomes sole
CHRONOLOGY

ruler as Augustus.
753 BC > Romulus kills Remus
and becomes the city’s first ruler. 14 AD > Tiberius, Augustus’
stepson, assumes power and
616–579 BC > Tarquinius Pris- marries Augustus’ daughter, Julia,
cus is Rome’s first Etruscan king. who gives birth to Caligula, the
next emperor.
509 BC > Tarquinius Superbus,
the last Etruscan king, is deposed 41 AD > Caligula is assassinated
and the Roman Republic is after four years in power. His uncle,
established. Claudius, proves to be a wiser
successor.
264–146 BC > Punic Wars
against Carthage. 54 AD > The reign of Claudius’
stepson, Nero, is marred by corrup-
87 BC > Civil war breaks out tion and excess.
between Marius and Sulla.
69 AD > Emperor Vespasian
82 BC > Sulla becomes dictator restores order to Rome and builds
of Rome. the Colosseum in the grounds of
Nero’s Domus Aurea.
65–63 BC > Marius’ nephew,
Julius Caesar, establishes a 81 AD > Vespasian’s son Titus is
formidable military reputation. succeeded by Domitian, who builds
the stadium that forms the founda-
60 BC > Triumvirate of Julius tions of today’s Piazza Navona.
Caesar, Crassus and Pompey rules
Rome. 98 AD > Emperor Trajan expands
the empire and Rome grows to a
58–51 BC > Caesar colonizes population of around a million.
Gaul.
117 > Trajan is succeeded by
49–45 BC > Caesar marches Hadrian, a wise and resource-
on Rome, sparking off a civil war ful emperor, who ruled over the
between him and Pompey. empire’s golden age.
44 BC > Caesar is assassinated in 138–192 > Marcus Aurelius
Pompey’s Theatre on March 15. continues to rule a stable city and
43 BC > Leadership is assumed by a rich empire but the Antonine line
a triumvirate of Antony, Octavian fizzles out when his son, Com-
and Lepidus. modus, is strangled.

40 BC > Antony marries Octavian’s 193 > Septimius Severus becomes

sister, Octavia. the first emperor of the Severan
dynasty.

186
211 > Severus' son, Caracalla, 1417 > Martin V consolidates
murders his brother and assumes papal power in Rome.
power for himself in.
1475 > Pope Sixtus IV commis-
275 > The emperor Aurelian builds sions the Sistine Chapel.

CHRONOLOGY
a wall around the city to keep it
safe from invaders. 1503 > Julius II becomes pope
and commissions frescoes for the
284 > Diocletian stabilizes Rome Sistine Chapel from Michelangelo.
and divides the empire into east
and west. 1513 > Leo X continues Julius’s
role as patron of the city’s greatest
306 > Constantine converts to artists and architects.
Christianity and defeats his rival
Maxentius to claim the Western 1527 > Holy Roman Em-
Empire. peror Charles V captures Rome
and Clement VII flees to the Castel
325 > Constantine shifts the seat Sant’Angelo.
of power east to Byzantium, renam-
ing it Constantinople. 1534 > Alessandro Farnese
is elected pope as Paul III and
410 > Rome is captured by the Michelangelo completes his
Visigoths, the first time a foreign Sistine Chapel painting of the Last
invader has held the city for 800 Judgement.
years.
1585 > Sixtus V undertakes
5th century > The city declines widespread construction, creating
to a population of around 30,000. grand vistas and squares.

590 > Gregory I becomes pope, 1605 > St Peter’s is completed

revitalizing the city with new basili- under the Borghese pope, Paul V.
cas and converting ancient Roman
structures like the Pantheon and 1623 > Urban VIII ascends the
the Castel Sant’Angelo. papal throne and becomes the
greatest patron of the Baroque’s
800 > Charlemagne visits Rome most dominant figure, Gianlorenzo
and is crowned ruler of the Holy Bernini.
Roman Empire.
1700 > The city’s population is
850–1300 > Rome is the focus now 150,000, and Rome becomes
of struggles between the papacy, an essential stop on any traveller’s
Holy Roman emperors and its own Grand Tour.
aristocracy.
1798 > French forces commanded
1305 > Clement V transfers the by Napoleon occupy the city; Pius
papal court to Avignon, France. VI is taken as a prisoner to France.

1347 > Cola di Rienzo seizes 1815 > Papal rule is restored
power and re-establishes Rome’s under Pius VII.
Republic for seven years.
1849 > Giuseppe Mazzini forces
187
 Pope Pius IX to leave Rome but 1960 > Fellini releases La Dolce
the papacy is restored four months Vita, a film that would define the
later by Napoleon III. Sixties in Rome.

1859–64 > Unification forces 1970s > The anni piombi, or

CHRONOLOGY

gather strength and Florence “years of lead”, when Rome

becomes the capital of the new became a focus for terrorism,
kingdom of Italy. culminating in the murder of politi-
cian Aldo Moro.
1870 > Italian forces take Rome
and declare the city the capital 1990s > Corruption scandals
of the new state under Vittorio lead to a series of trials and the
Emanuele II. Pope Pius IX is reconfiguration of the entire Italian
confined to the Vatican. political landscape.

1922–42 > Mussolini oversees 2001 > Walter Veltroni is elected

the construction of numerous mayor of Rome, and oversees a
public works. series of prestigious public works.

1929 > The Lateran Pact is 2005 > Pope John Paul II is suc-
signed by Italy and the Vatican, ceeded by Josef Ratzinger as Pope
recognizing the sovereignty of the Benedict XVI.
Vatican City.
2008 > Following years of left-
1946 > King Vittorio Emanuele leaning mayors, a right-winger,
III is forced to abdicate and a Giovanni Alemanno, is elected.
republic is declared under Alcide
de Gasperi.

188
 please per favore
Italian thank you (very
much)
grazie (molte/mille
grazie)
Speaking some Italian, however you’re welcome prego
tentatively, can mark you out from all right/OK va bene

ITALIAN
the hordes of tourists in Rome, and how are you? come stai/sta?
having a little more can open up the (informal/formal)
city no end. What follows is a brief I’m fine bene
pronunciation guide, some useful Do you speak English? parla inglese?
words and phrases, and a food and I don’t understand non ho capito
drink glossary. For more detail, Ital- I don’t know non lo so
ian: The Rough Guide Phrasebook has excuse me (to get mi scusi
a huge and accessible vocabulary, a attention)
detailed menu reader and conversa- excuse me (in a crowd) permesso
tional examples to get you through I’m sorry mi dispiace
most situations. I’m here on holiday sono qui in vacanza
I’m English sono inglese
Pronunciation Scottish scozzese
Italian pronunciation is very Welsh gallese
simple – all words are stressed on Irish irlandese
the penultimate syllable unless an American (m/f) americano/a
accent (` or ´) denotes otherwise. Australian (m/f) australiano/a
The only difficulties you’re likely to a New Zealander neozelandese
encounter are the few consonants today oggi
that are different from English: tomorrow domani
c before e or i is pronounced as in church, day after tomorrow dopodomani
while ch before the same vowels is hard, Yesterday Ieri
as in cat. now adesso
The same goes with g – soft before e or later più tardi
i, as in geranium; hard before h, as in tonight stasera
garlic.
morning mattina
sci or sce are pronounced as in sheet and
shelter respectively. afternoon pomeriggio
gn has the ni sound of onion. evening sera
gl in Italian is softened to a sound similar wait! aspetta!
to lyi, as in stallion. let’s go! andiamo!
h is not aspirated, as in honour. here/There oui/Là
good/bad buono/cattivo
Words and phrases big/small grande/píccolo
BASICS cheap/Expensive economico/Caro
early/Late presto/tardi
good morning buongiorno
hot/cold caldo/freddo
good afternoon/ buonasera
evening near/far vicino/lontano
good night buonanotte quickly/Slowly velocemente/
Lentamente
hello/goodbye ciao (informal; to
strangers use with/without con/senza
phrases above) more/less più/meno
goodbye arrivederci enough, no more basta
yes si Mr/Mrs/Miss signores/signora/
no no signorina

189
 QUESTIONS AND DIRECTIONS ACCOMMODATION
where? dove? Hotel albergo
Where is/where are…? Dov’è/Dove sono … ? Hostel ostello
How do I get to … ? Per arrivare a … ? I’d like to book a room Vorrei prenotare una
turn left/right giri a sinistra/destra camera
ITALIAN

go straight on vai sempre diritto Is there a hotel nearby? C’è un albergo qui
How far is it to … ? Quant’è lontano a… ? vicino?
What time does it A che ora apre/ I have a booking Ho una prenotazione
open/close? chiude? Do you have a room …
What time is it? Che ore sono? for one/two night/s per una/due notte/i
when? quando? for one/two week/s per una/due
what? (what is it?) cosa? (cos’è?) settimana/e
How much/many? Quanto/Quanti? with a double bed con un letto
matrimoniale
why? perché?
with twin beds con due letti
It is/there is C’è … ?
(is it/is there … )? with a shower/bath con doccia/bagno
How much does it/ Quanto costa/ with a balcony con balcone
they cost? costano? with hot/cold water con acqua calda/
How do you say it in Italian? Come si fredda
dice in italiano? How much is it? Quanto costa?
It’s expensive È caro
TRANSPORT Is breakfast included? È compresa la
colazione?
bus station autostazione Do you have anything Ha qualcosa che
train station stazione ferroviaria cheaper? costa di meno?
a ticket to … un biglietto a … Full/half board Pensione completa/
one-way/return solo andata/andata mezza pensione
e ritorno Can I see the room? Posso vedere la
Can you tell me Mi può dire dove camera?
when to get off? scendere? I’ll take it La prendo
What time does it A che ora parte/
leave/arrive? arriva? NUMBERS
Where does it leave Da dove parte?
from? uno 1
due 2
SIGNS tre 3
quattro 4
aperto open
cinque 5
bagno/Gabinetto WC/bathroom
sei 6
cassa cash desk
sette 7
chiuso closed
otto 8
chiuso per ferie closed for holidays
nove 9
chiuso per restauro closed for restoration
dieci 10
entrata entrance
undici 11
ingresso libero free entry
dodici 12
signori/Signore gentlemen/Ladies
tredici 13
spingere push
quattordici 14
tirare pull
quindici 15
uscita exit
sedici 16
vietato fumare no smoking
diciassette 17

190
diciotto 18 caponata mixed aubergine, olives,
diciannove 19 tomatoes and celery
venti 20 caprese tomato and mozzarella salad
ventuno 21 insalata di mare seafood salad
ventidue 22 insalata di riso rice salad

ITALIAN
trenta 30 melanzane alla parmigiana layers of
quaranta 40 aubergine, tomato and parmesan
cinquanta 50 mortadella salami-type cured meat
sessanta 60 pancetta bacon
settanta 70 peperonata grilled green, red or yellow
peppers stewed in olive oil
ottanta 80
pomodori ripieni stuffed tomatoes
novanta 90
prosciutto ham
cento 100
salame salami
centuno 101
supplì fried rice balls with mozzarella
centodieci 110
duecento 200
SOUP (ZUPPA)
cinquecento 500
mille 1000 brodo clear broth
cinquemila 5000 minestrina any light soup
diecimila 10,000 minestrone thick vegetable soup
pasta e fagioli pasta soup with beans
Food and drink terms pastina in brodo pasta in clear broth
BASICS AND SNACKS stracciatella broth with egg
aceto vinegar
aglio garlic PASTA
biscotti biscuits bucatini thick, hollow spaghetti-type
burro butter pasta. Sometimes known as tonnarelli
caramelle sweets cannelloni large, stuffed pasta tubes
cioccolato chocolate farfalle literally “bow”- shaped pasta; the
formaggio cheese word also means “butterflies”
frittata omelette fettuccine flat ribbon egg pasta
marmellata jam paccheri large tubes of pasta
olio oil pasta al forno pasta baked with minced
olive olives meat, eggs, tomato and cheese
pane bread penne tubed pasta
pepe pepper rigatoni Llrge, curved and ridged tubes of
riso rice pasta – larger than penne but smaller
than paccheri
sale salt
spaghettini thin spaghettis
uova eggs
strozzapreti literally “strangled priests” –
zucchero sugar twisted flat noodles
zuppa soup fagliatelle flat ribbon egg noodles, slightly
thinner than fettuccine
STARTERS (ANTIPASTI) AND FRIED vermicelli thin strand pasta often served
SNACKS (FRITTI) in soup – literally “little worms”
antipasto misto mixed cold meats and
cheese (and a selection of other things PASTA SAUCES
in this list) aglio e olio with garlic and oil
arancini fried rice balls with mozzarella amatriciana With tomato and guanciale
and tomato (similar to bacon)

191
 arrabbiata (“angry”) spicy tomato sauce, with a slice of prosciutto and sage on
with chillies top, served plain or with a Marsala sauce
alla carbonara pasta with beaten egg, scottadito grilled lamb chops, eaten with
pan-fried guanciale or bacon, and the fingers
pecorino cheese spezzatino stew
ITALIAN

alla gricia with pecorino and guanciale trippa tripe

cacio e pepe pasta with pecorino and vitello veal
ground black pepper
con vongole with clams FISH (PESCE) AND SHELLFISH
panna cream (CROSTACEI)
parmigiano parmesan
pasta alla pajata with calf’s intestines – acciughe anchovies
a very Roman dish anguilla eel
peperoncino chilli aragosta lobster
pomodoro tomato baccalà cod, best eaten Jewish-style,
puttanesca (“whorish”) Tomato, anchovy, deep-fried
olive oil and oregano calamari squid
ragù (or Bolognese) meat sauce cozze mussels
dentice sea bream
MEAT (CARNE) gamberetti shrimps
gamberi prawns
abbacchio milk-fed lamb roasted with
granchio crab
rosemary and garlica
merluzzo cod
agnello lamb
ostriche oysters
bistecca steak
pesce spada swordfish
carpaccio slices of raw beef
polpo octopus
cervello brain, usually calves’
rospo monkfish
cinghiale wild boar
sampiero John Dory
coda alla vaccinara oxtail stewed in a rich
sauce of tomato and celery sarde sardines
coniglio rabbit sogliola sole
costolette Cutlet, chop tonno tuna
coratella lamb’s heart, liver, lungs and trota trout
spleen cooked in olive oil with lots of vongole clams
black pepper and onions
fegato liver VEGETABLES (CONTORNI) AND
guanciale unsmoked bacon made from SALAD (INSALATA)
pigs’ cheeks
maiale pork carciofi… artichokes
manzo beef …alla Romana stuffed with garlic, mint
and parsley and stewed in wine
milza spleen – sometimes served as a pâté
on toasted bread …alla guidea flattened and deep fried in
olive oil
ossobuco shin of veal
carciofini artichoke hearts
pajata the intestines of a unweaned calf
cavolfiore cauliflower
pancetta bacon
cavolo cabbage
pollo chicken
cipolla onion
polpette meatballs
fagioli beans
porchetta pork stuffed with herbs and
roasted on a spit fagiolini green beans
rognoni kidneys fiori di zucca batter-fried courgette
(zucchini) blossom stuffed with
salsiccia sausage mozzarella and sometimes a sliver of
saltimbocca alla Romana Veal cooked marinated anchovy
192
finocchio fennel fragole strawberries
funghi mushrooms limone lemon
insalata verde green mandorle almonds
/mista /mixed salad mele apples
melanzane aubergine (eggplant) melone melon

ITALIAN
patate potatoes pere pears
peperoni peppers pesche peaches
Piselli peas pinoli pine nuts
pomodori tomatoes uva grapes
radicchio red salad leaves
spinaci spinach DESSERTS (DOLCI)
cassata ice-cream cake with candied fruit
COOKING TERMS
crostata pastry tart with fruit, chocolate or
ai ferri grilled without oil ricotta topping
alla brace barbecued gelato ice cream
alla griglia grilled macedonia fruit salad
alla milanese fried in egg and Torta cake, tart
breadcrumbs zabaglione dessert made with eggs, sugar
alla pizzaiola cooked with tomato sauce and Marsala wine
allo spiedo on the spit zuppa Inglese trifle
al dente firm, not overcooked
al forno baked DRINKS (BEVANDE)
al sangue rare
acqua minerale mineral water
arrosto roast
acqua naturale/frizzante still/sparkling
ben cotto well done water
bollito/lesso boiled acqua del rubinetto tap water
cotto cooked (not raw) bicchiere glass
crudo raw birra beer
fritto fried bottiglia bottle
in umido stewed caffè coffee
ripieno stuffed cioccolato caldo hot chocolate
stracotto braised, stewed ghiaccio ice
granita Iied drink, with coffee or fruit
CHEESE (FORMAGGI) latte milk
dolcelatte creamy blue cheese limonata lemonade
fontina northern Italian cheese spremuta fresh fruit juice
pecorino strong, hard sheep’s cheese succo concentrated fruit juice with sugar
provola/provolone smooth, round mild tè tea
cheese, made from buffalo’s or sheep’s vino wine
milk, sometimes smoked vino rosso/bianco/rosato red/white/
rose wine
FRUIT (FRUTTA) AND NUTS (NOCI) vino secco/dolce dry/sweet wine
ltro Litre
ananas pineapple
mezzo half
anguria/coccomero watermelon
quarto quarter
arance oranges
salute! cheers!
banane bananas
ciliegie cherries
fichi figs
fichi d’India prickly pears
193
 PUBLISHING INFORMATION
This first edition published January 2011 by Rough Guides Ltd.
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
11, Community Centre, Panchsheel Park, New Delhi 110017, India
Distributed by the Penguin Group
SMALL PRINT

Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL

Penguin Group (USA) 375 Hudson Street, NY 10014, USA
Penguin Group (Australia) 250 Camberwell Road, Camberwell, Victoria 3124, Australia
Penguin Group (NZ) 67 Apollo Drive, Mairangi Bay, Auckland 1310, New Zealand
This paperback edition published in Canada in 2010. Rough Guides is represented in Canada by
Tourmaline Editions Inc., 662 King Street West, Suite 304, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 1M7
Typeset in Minion and Din to an original design by Henry Iles and Dan May.
Printed and bound in Singapore
© Rough Guides 2011
Maps © Rough Guides
No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher except for
the quotation of brief passages in reviews.
208pp includes index
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
ISBN 978-1-8483-6238-3
The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the
information in the Pocket Rough Guide Rome, however, they can accept no responsibility for
any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice
contained in the guide.
135798642

ROUGH GUIDES CREDITS

Text editor: Lucy White
Layout: Dan May
Photography: James McConnachie, Natascha Sturny
Cartography: Katie Lloyd-Jones
Picture editor: Mark Thomas
Proofreader: Jennifer Speake
Production: Rebecca Short
Cover design: Nicole Newman, Dan May, Chloë Roberts,

THE AUTHORS
Martin Dunford is the author of Rough Guides to Rome, Italy, Amsterdam and New York, among
others, and is consultant publisher for the series and a freelance writer, editor and publishing
consultant. He lives in London and Norfolk, with his wife Caroline and two daughters, and is currently
working on a new guide to Norfolk and Suffolk.

Natasha Foges packed her bags and moved to Rome on a whim, and stayed for four years. Now
based in London, she misses the food, the sun and the scooter rides, but escapes back to Rome as
often as she can to revisit old haunts and overindulge on ice cream.

194
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Martin Dunford Thanks to Cory, Lubna, Judy and Katie; to Natasha, who did a fantastic job; to Lucy
– typically positive, professional and thorough;  and of course to my family, Caroline, Daisy and Lucy:
Rome-lovers through-and-through. 
Natasha Foges would like to thank Richard, Chiara, Lesley and Antonio for great Roman nights out;

SMALL PRINT
and Will, for his map-reading skills and his dedication to finding the perfect plate of straccetti.

HELP US UPDATE
We’ve gone to a lot of effort to ensure that the first edition of the Pocket Rough Guide Rome
is accurate and up-to-date. However, things change – places get “discovered”, opening hours are
notoriously fickle, restaurants and rooms raise prices or lower standards. If you feel we’ve got it
wrong or left something out, we’d like to know, and if you can remember the address, the price, the
hours, the phone number, so much the better.
Please send your comments with the subject line “Pocket Rough Guide Rome Update” to
E mail@roughguides.com. We’ll credit all contributions and send a copy of the next edition (or any
other Rough Guide if you prefer) for the very best emails.
Have your questions answered and tell others about your trip at W www.roughguides.com

PHOTO CREDITS
All images © Rough Guides except the p.63 Capitoline Museums © Adam Eastland/
following: Alamy
Cover Statue from the Constantine Colossus, p.72 View towards the Colosseum © Mark
Rome © 2007 Peter Scholey Thomas
p.1 View over the domes of Rome © Mark p.95 Palazzo delle Esposizioni Roma, image
Thomas courtesy of the Palazzo
p.3 View over St Peters Square © Mark p.97 Palazzo Massimo © Lanzellotto/Tips
Thomas Images
p.4 Trevi Fountain © Mark Thomas p.99 Interior of Super © Super
p.6 Pantheon and restaurants © Alex Segre/ p.102 Micca Club © Ursula Persiani/Micca
Alamy Club
p.8 Piazza del Popolo © Mark Thomas p.118 Tomb of Cecilia Metella © Glyn Thomas
p.10 Spanish Steps © Mark Thomas Photography
p.12–13 The Forum © Mark Thomas p.119 EUR © Masci/Tips Images
p.15 Galleria Doria Pamphili © Alinari p.126 Corsini Palace © Gaertner/Alamy
Archives/Corbis p.130 Interior of Freni e Frizioni © Freni e Frizioni
p.17 View from Spanish Steps © Mark Thomas p.144 Michelangelo’s Pieta © Reinhard
p.19 Roman Jewish food © Natasha Foges Dirscherl/Photolibrary
p.19 Backstreet Trattoria © Natasha Foges p.145 Interior of St Paul’s © Mark Thomas
p.21 Via Condotti © Mark Thomas p.149 Sistine Chapel © Russell Mountford/
p.22 Palazzo Farnese © Gianni Dagli Orti/ Photolibrary
Alamy p.151 Vatican Gardens © Mark Thomas
p.26 The Colosseum © Mark Thomas p.155 Temple of Vesta and Tiburnus © Yannick
p.27 Ostia Antica © Mimmo Jodice/Corbis Luthy/Alamy
p.30 Villa Borghese © Mark Thomas p.157 Sperlonga © Juergen Sack/iStock
p.31 Via Appia Antica © Eastland/Alamy p.157 Terracina © Iraida Bassi/iStock
p.32–33 Statue in the Pincio Gardens © Mark p.158 Anzio © Bruce Bean/iStock
Thomas p.160 Amphitheatre, Ostia Antica © image-
p.42 Via del Governo Vecchio © Cubo Images broker/Alamy
srl/Alamy p.172–173 View from the Spanish Steps ©
p.45 Specialist tie shop © Pictures Colour Library Mark Thomas
p.55 Fontana delle Tartarughe © Natasha Foges

195
 Index
Map entries are in bold.
INDEX

Enoteca Antica, L' ........................... 89

A Enoteca Cavour 313 ...................... 102
accommodation.................. 162–173 Etabli ............................................. 49
Ancient Rome .........................66–73 Finnegan ...................................... 102
Ancient Rome .....................68–69 Fluid .............................................. 49
Anzio..........................................159 Fonclea ........................................ 153
apartments ................................165 Freni e Frizoni ............................... 131
Ara Pacis Augustae ..............8, 27, 80 Il Goccetto...................................... 59
Aracoeli Staircase ........................64 Jonathan’s Angels ........................... 49
Arch of Constantine ......................72 Lowenhaus ..................................... 89
Arch of Septimus Severus .............70 Nuvolari........................................ 153
Arch of Titus.................................71 Oasi della Birra ............................. 121
Archeobus ..................................117 Ombre Rosse ................................ 131
arrival ........................................176 ReRe Bar ...................................... 139
ATAC ..........................................175 Rive Gauche.................................. 102
Aula Ottagona ..............................96 Rosati ............................................ 89
Auditorium, The ..........................139 San Calisto ................................... 131
Aventine Hill......................... 17, 110 Scholars’ Lounge ............................ 65
Aventine Hill and south....... 110–121 Shaki.............................................. 89
Aventine Hill and south.... 112–113 Société Lutèce ................................ 49
Tearoom ....................................... 102
B Tre Scalini, Ai................................ 102
Trimani ......................................... 102
B&Bs .........................................165
Vinaietto......................................... 59
Bambino, The ...............................64
Vineria, La ...................................... 59
bars
(by area)
Al Vino al Vino .............................. 101
Aventine Hill and south ................. 121
Anima............................................. 49
Campo de’ Fiori, the Ghetto and
L’Angolo Divino................................ 59
around ........................................ 59
Artù .............................................. 131
Celian Hill and San Giovanni.......... 109
Bar à Book.................................... 101
centro storico ................................. 49
Bar della Pace ................................ 49
Esquiline, Monti and
Barrique, La .................................. 101
Termini ..................................... 101
Bartaruga ....................................... 59
Piazza Venezia and the
Bloom ............................................ 49
Capitoline Hill ............................. 65
Bum Bum de Miel ......................... 131
Pigneto......................................... 103
Café Friends ................................... 89
Trastevere and the Janiculum Hill.. 131
Canova ........................................... 89
Tridente, Trevi and the
Coming Out................................... 109
Quirinale ..................................... 89
Curia di Bacco, La ........................... 59

196
 Vatican City .................................. 153 Michele, Da .................................... 86
Villa Borghese and north ............... 139 Mondo Arancina ............................ 152
Basilica di San Pietro ... 9, 10, 16, 144 Museo-Atelier Canova-Tadolini ........ 86
Basilica Julia ...............................70 Non Solo Pizza .............................. 152
Basilica of Constantine see Basilica Old Bridge ...............................10, 153

INDEX
of Maxentius Palazzo del Freddo di GiovanniFassi....100
Basilica of Maxentius ...................71 Palombini ..................................... 120
Baths of Caracalla ......................110 Pascucci......................................... 46
Baths of Diocletian .......................96 Punturi ........................................... 86
Baths of Septimus Severus ...........72 Renella, La ................................... 129
beaches ............................. 157–159 Sisini............................................ 129
Bernini, Gian Lorenzo .. 34, 35, 40, 55, Tazza d’Oro, La ................................ 46
83, 84, 122, 133, 141, 144 Valentini ....................................... 109
bike rental .................................178 Vitti ................................................ 46
Bioparco ....................................136 Volpetti Più................................... 120
Bocca della Veritá ........................56 Zozzone, Lo ................................. 5, 46
Borromini ..........................39, 40, 83 (by area)
Bruno, Giordano............................53 Aventine Hill and south ................. 120
bus routes..................................179 Campo de’ Fiori, the Ghetto and
bus stations ...............................174 around ........................................ 57
buses ..................................176, 177 Celian Hill and San Giovanni.......... 109
buses, tourist .............................178 centro storico ................................. 46
Esquiline, Monti and Termini ........... 99
Pigneto......................................... 103
C Travestere and the Janiculum
cafés Hill ........................................... 129
Alberto Pica ................................ 9, 57 Tridente, Trevi and the
Antico Caffè del Brasile................... 99 Quirinale ..................................... 86
Barnum Café................................... 57 Vatican City .................................. 152
Bernasconi ..................................... 57 Villa Borghese and north ...................139
Bibli ............................................. 129 Campo de’ Fiori ...................... 20, 52
Bottega del Caffè, La ...................... 99 Campo de’ Fiori, the Ghetto and
Caffetteria, La................................. 46 around ................................50–59
Caffè Sant' Eustachio...................... 46 Campo de’ Fiori, the Ghetto and
Camilloni ........................................ 46 around.............................52–53
Cremeria Monteforte ....................... 46 Capalbio.....................................158
Dagnino .......................................... 99 Capitoline Hill, The ...................8, 62
Forno di Campo de’ Fiori, Il .....5, 10, 57 Capitoline Museums ............... 15, 62
Gelato di San Crispino, Il ..............8, 86 Capuchin Cemetery ......................82
Gianfornaio ................................... 139 car rental ...................................178
Gianicolo ...................................... 129 Caravaggio.............38, 39, 83, 133, 150
Giolitti ............................................ 46 Casa di Chirico ....................... 11, 75
Gran Caffè Borgo........................9, 152 Casa di Goethe .............................80
Marzio, Di ..................................... 129 Case Romane .............................105

197
 Castel Sant’ Angelo ....................141 Villa Borghese and north ............... 139
Catacombs of San Callisto............. 118 Colosseum, The ...................8, 26, 68
Catacombs of San Sebastian.......118 Column of Marcus Aurelius ...........40
Celian Hill ..................................104 Column of Trajan ..........................67
Celian Hill and San consulates .................................179
INDEX

Giovanni.......................... 104–109 credit cards ................................182

Celian Hill and San crime .........................................180
Giovanni ...................... 106–107 Crypta Balbi .................................52
Centrale Montemartini................115 Cryptoporticus, The ......................72
centro storico .........................34–49 Curia ............................................70
centro storico .....................36–37 cycling .......................................180
Chiesa Nuova ...............................42
chiostro del Bramante ..................43
chronology ......................... 186–188
D
Ciampino Airport.........................174 Day-trips............................ 154–161
cinema.......................................181 Day-trips ................................156
Circus Maximus..........................110 dentists .....................................181
climate ..........................................6 disabled travellers......................183
clubs and venues doctors ......................................181
Akab/Cave .................................... 121 Domus Augustana ........................72
Alibi, L' ......................................... 121 Domus Flavia ...............................72
Art Café ........................................ 139 Domine Quo Vadis.......................117
Auditorium.................................... 139
Big Mama ..................................... 131 E
Black Out ..................................... 109
eating ...................................... 7, 18
Casa del Jazz ................................ 121
electricity...................................181
Circolo degli Artisti ....................... 102
embassies..................................181
Gilda .............................................. 89
emergencies ..............................181
Goa .............................................. 121
Enjoy Rome ................................183
Gregory’s ........................................ 89
Esquiline, Monti and
Maison, La ...................................... 49
Termini ............................. 90–103
Micca Club ................................... 103
Esquiline, Monti and
Piper ............................................ 139
Termini ............................92–93
Saponeria, La................................ 121
Etruscans, the .....................137, 147
Skyline ......................................... 109
EUR ...........................................119
Teatro dell’Opera di Roma ............... 103
events........................................184
Villaggio Globale........................... 121
exchange ...................................182
(by area)
Aventine Hill and south ................. 121
Celian Hill and San Giovanni.......... 109
Esquiline, Monti and Termini ......... 102
Trastevere and the Janiculum Hill.. 131
Tridente, Trevi and the Quirinale ...... 89

198
 YWCA ........................................... 173
F hotels ................................ 164–172
Farnese Gardens...........................73 Albergo del Senato....................... 164
festivals .....................................184 Aleph............................................ 166
Fiumicino airport ........................174 Alpi .............................................. 169

INDEX
Flavian Amphitheatre see Colos- Amalia.......................................... 171
seum, The Artistes, Des ................................. 168
Fontana dell’Acqua Felice .............84 Artorius ........................................ 169
Fontana delle Api..........................82 Beehive, The ................................. 169
Fontana della Barcaccia................74 Borgognoni, Dei ............................ 166
Fontana delle Naiadi .....................95 Bramante ..................................... 171
Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi.............40 Campo de’ Fiori ............................. 166
Fontana delle Tartarughe ..............55 Casa Howard................................. 167
Fontana di Trevi ...................8, 10, 81 Casa Montani................................ 167
Fontana del Tritone .......................82 Casa di Santa Francesca ............... 171
Foro Italico .................................138 Cesari .......................................... 164
Forum of Trajan ............................67 Cisterna........................................ 171
Fregene ......................................157 Colors .......................................... 171
Condotti ....................................... 167
G Dei Consoli ................................... 172
Daphne ......................................... 167
Galleria Borghese ..............8, 15, 133
Duca d’Alba .................................. 169
Galleria di Colonna ................. 11, 81
Due Torri....................................... 164
Galleria Doria Pamphilj.............15, 34
Eva’s Rooms ................................. 167
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica ...83,
FortySeven.................................... 166
126
Franklin ........................................ 172
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte
Giulio Cesare ................................ 172
Moderna .................................136
Grifo ............................................. 170
Galleria Spada ..............................53
Hassler......................................... 167
Gesù, The ............................... 29, 50
Homs ........................................... 167
Ghetto, The .............................. 9, 55
Hotel Art....................................... 167
Goethe .........................................80
Inghilterra, D' ............................... 168
Modigliani .................................... 168
H Navona ......................................... 165
health ........................................181 Nicolas Inn ................................... 170
hostels ......................................173 Palazzetto, Il................................. 168
Alessandro Palace ........................ 171 Palazetto degli Artisti.................... 170
Funny Palace ................................ 173 Piazza di Spagna ........................8, 168
Ostello di Foro Italico .................... 173 Plaza ............................................ 169
M&J Place .................................... 173 Portoghesi .................................... 165
Ottaviano ...................................... 173 Portrait Suites .............................. 169
Sandy ........................................... 173 Radisson Blu Es ............................ 170
Raphael ........................................ 165

199
 Residenza, La................................ 169
Residenza Arco de’ Tolomei ........... 171
L
Residenza Canali........................... 165 Lacus Curtius, The ........................70
Residenza Cellini .......................... 170 language ............................ 189–193
Residenza Farnese ........................ 166 Largo di Torre Argentina ............11, 50
INDEX

Rovere, La .................................... 172 left luggage ...............................182

Russie, De .................................... 169 Leonardo da Vinci Airport see
Santa Chiara ................................. 165 Fiumicino
Santa Maria .................................. 171 lost property ..............................182
Sole ............................................. 166
St George ..................................... 166 M
Suite Dreams ................................ 170
MACRO Future ............................111
Teatro Pace 33 .............................. 165
Mammertine Prison, The ...............65
Trastevere..................................... 171
Mausoleo delle Fosse Ardeatine ..118
Villa delle Rose............................. 170
Mausoleum of Augustus ...............80
Villa Spalletti Trivelli .................... 169
MAXXI ........................................138
Yes Hotel ...................................... 170
metro .........................................176
Zanardelli ..................................... 166
Michelangelo .......35, 54, 94, 96, 149
(by area) money........................................182
centro storico ............................... 164
Monte Testaccio .........................114
Campo de'Fiori and the Ghetto ...... 166
Mouth of Truth see Bocca della
Tridente, Trevi and Quirinale .......... 166
Verità
Esquiline, Monti and Termini ......... 168
Museo-Atelier Canova-
Trastevere..................................... 170
Tadolini .....................................79
Vatican ......................................... 170
Museo Barracco ...........................41
House of Livia...............................73 Museo Carlo Bilotti.....................136
House of the Vestal Virgins............ 71 Museo Nazionale di Arte
Orientale...................................94
I Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa
Imperial Forums ...........................67 Giulia ......................................137
internet cafés.............................181 Museo Nazionale Romano..15, 44, 52,
Isola Tiberina ...............................56 96, 97
Italian ........................................189 Museo Palatino ............................72
itineraries ................................8–11 Museo di Risorgimento .................62
Museo di Roma ............................41
Museo Storico della
J Liberazione........................ 11, 108
Janiculum Hill .................17, 31, 127 Mussolini ...................... 60, 119, 138

K N
Keats ................................... 74, 114 Neri, St Philip...............................42
Keats-Shelley Memorial nightbuses .................................178
House .......................................74
Knights of Malta.........................111
200
O Piazza San Pietro .................. 29, 141
Piazza di Spagna...........................74
opening hours ............................182 Piazza Venezia ..............................60
Oratorio dei Filippini .....................42 Piazza Venezia and the
Orto Botanico .............................127 Capitoline Hill .....................60–65

INDEX
Ostia ..........................................157 Piazza Venezia and the
Ostia Antica ......................... 27, 160 Capitoline Hill ....................... 61
Ostiense.....................................115 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II............95
Piccola Farnesina .........................41
P Pigneto ......................................103
Palatine Hill .................................72 Pincio Gardens .............................78
Palazzo Altemps ...........................43 pizza ..............................................5
Palazzo Barberini ...............23, 28, 83 Ponte Duca dí Aosta ...................138
Palazzo Braschi ............................41 Ponte Milvio ...............................138
Palazzo della Cancelleria ..............42 Porta Portese Market..................128
Palazzo dei Conservatori ...............62 Porto del Popolo ...........................79
Palazzo Corsini ...........................126 post offices ................................182
Palazzo delle Esposizoni ...............95 Priory of the Knights of Malta .....111
Palazzo Farnese.................10, 22, 54 Protestant Cemetery...................114
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme .........97 public holidays ...........................184
Palazzo Nuovo ..............................63 public transport..........................177
Palazzo del Quirinale .............. 23, 84 Pyramid of Caius Cestius ............114
Palazzo Spada ........................ 23, 53
Palazzo Venezia ............................60 R
Pantheon, The .....................9, 27, 38 Raphael .................43, 126, 133, 150
parking ......................................180 restaurants
Pasquino ......................................40 Agata e Romeo ............................. 100
phones .......................................182 Antica Birreria Peroni ...................... 86
Piazza Barberini............................82 Armando al Pantheon ...................... 47
Piazza Bocca della Veritá ..............56 Augusto, Da .................................. 129
Piazza del Campidoglio .................64 Babette .......................................... 86
Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta........111 Bacaro, Il........................................ 47
Piazza dei Cinquecento .................98 Baffetto, Da .................................... 47
Piazza Colonna .............................40 Beltramme ..................................... 86
Piazza Esedra see Piazza della Cacio e Pepe ............................10, 153
Repubblica Cantina Cantarini ............................ 87
Piazza Mattei................................55 Cantina Tirolese............................ 153
Piazza di Montecitorio...................40 Carrette, Alle ................................ 100
Piazza Navona .......................... 9, 40 Casa Bleve...................................... 47
Piazza del Orologio .......................42 Charley’s Sauciere ...................11, 109
Piazza Pasquino............................40 Checchino dal 1887..................18, 120
Piazza del Popolo .........................78 Chianti, Il ....................................... 87
Piazza del Quirinale ......................84 Ciampini ......................................... 87
Piazza della Repubblica ................95

201
 Colline Emiliane.........................11, 87 Remo, Da............................. 5, 19, 120
Cul de Sac ...................................... 47 Roscioli .......................................... 58
Dulcamara .................................... 139 Sergio, Da ....................................... 58
Drappo, Il ....................................... 58 Taverna degli Amici ......................... 65
Enoteca Corsi ................................. 47 Taverna dei Quaranta..................... 109
INDEX

Felice, Da ..................................... 120 Tiaso, Il ........................................ 103

Filletaro a Santa Tonino, Da .................................19, 48
Barbara, Dar ...........................19, 57 Toscano, Dal ..............................9, 153
Foccaccia, La .................................. 47 Tram Tram .................................... 101
Forno della Soffitta, Al .................... 87 Trattoria ......................................... 48
Francesco, Da ............................. 5, 47 Trattoria Lilli ................................... 48
Gensola, La................................8, 129 Trattoria Monti .............................. 101
Gino ............................................... 48 Tuttifrutti...................................... 120
Gnegno, Da ................................... 139 Ugo e Maria, Da .............................. 48
Grappolo d’Oro/Zampano ................. 58 Valentino ...................................... 101
‘Gusto ............................................ 87 (by area)
Hang Zhou .................................... 100 Aventine Hill and south ................ 120
Ivo, Da .......................................... 130 Campo de’ Fiori, the Ghetto and
Da Lucia ....................................... 130 around ........................................ 57
Luzzi..........................................8, 109 Celian Hill and San Giovanni.......... 109
Maccheroni..................................... 48 centro storico ................................. 47
Mani in Pasta, Le .......................... 130 Esquiline, Monti and
Marmi, Ai...................................5, 130 Termini ..................................... 100
Montecarlo, La............................ 5, 48 Piazza Venezia and the
Monti DOC .................................... 100 Capitoline Hill ............................. 65
Mucca Bischera, La ....................... 100 Pigneto......................................... 103
Necci dal 1924 .............................. 103 Trastevere and the Janiculum
Olindo, Da..................................... 130 Hill ........................................... 129
Open Colonna ............................... 100 Tridente, Trevi and the
Osteria ar Galletto .......................... 58 Quirinale ..................................... 86
Osteria dell’Angelo........................ 153 Vatican City .................................. 153
Otello alla Concordia....................... 88 Villa Borghese and north ............... 139
Palatium ........................................ 88 Roma Pass .................................183
Paris, Da....................................... 130 Roman Forum ........................... 8, 70
Piccolo Abruzzo............................... 88 Roman Forum .....................70–71
Pigneto Quarantuno ...................... 103 Rooms of St Ignatius .............. 11, 51
Piperno..................................9, 19, 58 Rostra, The...................................70
Poeta, Dar .................................... 130
Pommidoro ................................... 101
Pompiere, Al ................................... 58
S
Primo al Pigneto ........................... 103 San Carlo alle Quattro
Rampa, Alla .................................... 88 Fontane .............................. 29, 83
Recafé............................................ 88 San Clemente....................... 25, 106
RED .............................................. 139 San Franceso a Ripa ...................122

202
San Giovanni in Laterano ............106 Arsenale ......................................... 45
San Gregorio Magno ...................105 Buccone ......................................... 85
San Lorenzo fuori Le Mura ............98 Campo Marzio ................................. 45
San Lorenzo in Damaso .................42 Castroni........................................ 152
San Marco....................................60 Colapicchioni ................................ 152

INDEX
San Paolo fuori le Mura ..............115 Fabriano ......................................... 85
San Pietro in Carcere ....................65 Feltrinelli ....................................... 88
San Pietro in Vincoli ............... 25, 94 Feltrinelli International ................... 99
Sancta Sanctorum ......................108 Ferrari Store ................................... 85
Sant’ Agostino ..............................39 Franchi ......................................... 152
Sant’ Andrea al Quirinale ..............83 Frate, Del...................................... 152
Sant’ Andrea della Valle................41 Fratelli Alinari ................................. 85
Sant’ Ignazio ................................35 ‘Gusto ............................................ 85
Sant’ Ivo alla Sapienza..................39 G. Poggi.......................................... 45
Santa Cecilia in Trastevere............. 122 Galleria Alberto Sordi ...................... 85
Santa Cosma e Damiano ...............68 Gancio, Il ........................................ 45
Santa Maria degli Angeli ...............96 Ibiz ................................................. 57
Santa Maria dell’ Anima................43 Innocenzi ...................................... 128
Santa Maria Aracoeli ....................64 Lion Bookshop ................................ 85
Santa Maria della Concezione .......82 Loco ............................................... 57
Santa Maria in Cosmedin ..............56 Monasteri, Ai .................................. 45
Santa Maria in Dominica .............104 Moriondo & Gariglio ........................ 45
Santa Maria Maggiore............. 24, 91 Nostalgica .................................... 100
Santa Maria sopra Minerva ..... 25, 35 Old Soccer ...................................... 85
Santa Maria della Pace .................43 Open Door Bookshop ..................... 128
Santa Maria del Popolo.................79 Pellicano ........................................ 45
Santa Maria in Trastevere ...........123 Picchio, Il ..................................... 128
Santa Maria della Vittoria ....... 29, 84 Pineider.......................................... 85
Santa Prassede ...................... 25, 94 Postersac ....................................... 99
Santa Pudenziana .........................91 Roma-Store .................................. 128
Santa Sabina ..............................111 De Sanctis ...................................... 45
Santa Severa ..............................158 Soul Food ..................................... 109
Santi Giovanni e Paulo ................105 Spazio Sette ................................... 57
Santi Quattro Coronati ............11, 105 Super ........................................21, 99
Santo Stefano Rotondo ...............104 TAD ................................................ 85
Scala Santa................................108 Trimani ........................................... 99
scooter rental.............................178 Valzani ......................................... 128
She-Wolf .....................................65 Via Sannio .................................... 109
Shelley ................................ 74, 114 Volpetti ........................................ 120
shopping .................................. 7, 20 (by area)
shops Aventine Hill and south ................. 120
Almost Corner Bookshop ............... 128 Campo de’ Fiori, the Ghetto
Anglo-American Bookshop ................85 and around ..................................... 57
Antica Norcineria ............................ 45 Celian Hill and San

203
 Giovanni.................................... 109 Trastevere and the
centro storico ................................. 45 Janiculum Hill ............. 124–125
Esquiline, Monti and Termini ........... 99 Trevi Fountain see Fontana di Trevi
Trastevere and the Janiculum Hill.. 128 Tridente, Trevi and the
Tridente, Trevi and the Quirinale .............................74–89
INDEX

Quirinale ..................................... 85 Tridente, Trevi and the

Vatican City .................................. 152 Quirinale .........................76–77
smoking .....................................180 Trinitá dei Monti ...........................78
Spanish Steps ...................10, 17, 75
Sperlonga ..................................159
St Peter’s see Basilica di San Pietro
V
St Theresa of Avila, Ecstasy Vatican City ........................ 140–153
of .............................................84 Vatican City .................... 142–143
Stadio dei Marmi ........................138 Vatican Gardens .........................151
Stadio Olimpico ..........................138 Vatican Library ...........................150
Synagogue, The ............................55 Vatican Museums .9, 10, 14, 146–151
Appartamento Borgia .................... 148
Braccio Nuovo............................... 150
T Galleria degli Arazzi ...................... 147
Tarpeian Rock...............................65 Galleria dei Candelabri .................. 147
taxis ..........................................180 Galleria delle Carte
Teatro di Marcello.........................65 Geografiche............................... 147
Temple of Castor and Pollux..............71 Museo Gregoriana Etrusco............. 147
Temple of Hercules Victor see Tem- Museo Gregoriano Egizio ............... 147
ple of Vesta Museo Gregoriano Profano .................151
Temple of Portunus ......................56 Museo Missonario
Temple of Vesta............................56 Etnologico................................. 151
Termini station ..................... 98, 174 Museo Pio Cristiano ...................... 151
Terracina ....................................159 Museo Pio-Clementino .................. 146
Testaccio....................................111 Museum Chiaramonti .................... 150
time ...........................................183 Museum of Christian Art ............... 150
Time Elevator ...............................81 Pinacoteca ................................... 150
Tivoli.................................... 31, 154 Raphael Rooms............................. 148
Tomb of Cecilia Metella ................19 Sistine Chapel .............................. 148
Torvaianica.................................157 Via Appia Antica ............31, 116–117
tourist information .....................183 Via Condotti ........................... 21, 74
Trajan’s Markets ..................... 27, 67 Via del Babuino ............................79
trains .........................................176 Via dei Coronari ...................... 21, 43
tram routes ................................179 Via del Corso .......................... 21, 34
trams .........................................177 Via del Governo Vecchio ................42
Trastevere .......................... 122–127 Via Giulia .....................................54
Trastevere and the Janiculum Hill .... Via Nazionale ...............................95
122–131 Via Portico d’Ottavia .....................55

204
Via Sacra......................................70 Villa Giulia .................................137
Via Veneto ....................................82 Villa Gregoriana..........................155
Via XX Settembre..........................84 Villa of Maxentius ......................119
Villa Adriana ..............................156 Villaggio Globale ........................111
Villa Borghese ...................... 30, 132 Vittoriano ..........................10, 17, 61

INDEX
Villa Borghese and Vittorio Emanuele Monument see
north .............................. 132–139 Vittoriano
Villa Borghese and
north ........................... 134–135
Villa Celimontana ................. 31, 104
W
Villa d’Este.................................155 walking tours .............................178
Villa Farnesina ..................... 23, 126 weather..........................................6

205
 206
INDEX