#thebakefeed

hee Holiday Issue

h Issue
Five-Star,
TEST KITCHEN
APPROVED
Recipes

FROM SCRATCH
TM

73
Master Stollen,
Recipes for Festive
Holiday Baking

Shortbread,
Dinner Rolls,
and More!
Gingerbread
Revamp
New Ways
to Bake with
Sugar & Spice
Bake Like a Brit
on Stir-Up Sunday
GINGERBREAD CHAI
NOV/DEC 2018 VOLUME 4, ISSUE 6 COOKIES FEATURING
page 94
$12.99US $15.99CAN
12
St. Lucia Buns
Caramelized White Chocolate
7 25274 01695 2
An Exclusive Look Inside the
DISPLAY UNTIL JANUARY 28, 2019 Guittard Chocolate Factory
FROM SCRATCH
TM
table of contents

11 Retro Redo: Chocolate-Frangipane Bundt Cake

A New York baker transforms his mother’s standard
27 HAUTE HAZELNUTS
We go beyond the typical chocolate-hazelnut spread
box-mix cake into a homemade frangipane-filled with this recipe collection, highlighting these wintry
Bundt cake dream nuts in all their roasted, buttery glory

13 Bakery Profile: Tatte Takes Over

The runaway hit bakery in Boston, Massachusetts, 35 SHORT AND SWEET
showcases sophisticated pastry in even more Shortbread, the classic Scottish biscuit, combines
sophisticated digs melt-in-your-mouth texture and butter-rich
flavor to creare the ultimate Yuletide treats

19 From the Pantry: Nutmeg

From freshly grated to pre-ground, we’re giving
you an inside look at the warm magic behind
eggnog’s famous spice
45 THE ESSENTIAL . . . STOLLEN
Take a crash course in Old-World holiday baking
with our guide to fruitcake’s boozy, yeasted
counterpart from Dresden, Germany
23 Holiday Gifting Guide: What a Baker Wants
Clue your loved ones in on what you want this holiday
season with our list of must-have baking products
55 STIR-UP SUNDAY
Contributing editor Edd Kimber shares his family’s
Christmas pudding recipe and the British holiday
tradition that goes along with it

5 bake from scratch

59 CARAMELIZED COMEBACK
White chocolate triumphs in this revolutionary new
95 ROLL CALL
Whether you opt for the Clover Beer Rolls or
form that elevates everything from whipped ganache cheesy Sour Cream Knots, you’ll have the perfect
toppings to pâte à choux accompaniment for your holiday meal with these
amped-up dinner rolls

69 GUITTARD: AMERICA’S FIRST FAMILY OF

CHOCOLATE 103 Origin of a Classic: St. Lucia Buns
Delve into the safron-scented wonder of these
We go inside the chocolate emporium of Guittard, classic twisted Nordic buns, a favorite during
a company committed to producing artisan Sweden’s festival of lights
chocolate for over 150 years

79 THE RED GEMS OF WINTER 112 Back Page Babka: Eggnog Babka Knots
Custardy eggnog combines with a Brandy Crème
Anglaise to make this babka so tempting that we bet
A shining star of winter produce, pomegranate you won’t be able to stop at just one
ofers a burst of bright, tangy flavor to your rich
cold-weather desserts

87 FIVE NEW WAYS WITH GINGERBREAD

Ginger paves the way to your best holiday baking,
including our cover star: a chai- and ginger-spiced
cookie sparkling with sugar

november | december 2018 6

 FROM SCRATCH
TM

november | december 2018 Volume 4, Issue 6

EDITORIAL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Brian Hart Hofman

Sophia Jones
MANAGING EDITOR GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Kyle Grace Mills
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Deanna Rippy Gardner
Lillie Mermoud
ASSISTANT EDITOR ART DIRECTOR Kelly Redding
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Edd Kimber
RECIPE EDITOR Fran Jensen ST YLISTS
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Emmy Carswell Sidney Bragiel, Mary Beth Jones, Beth K. Seeley
SENIOR COPY EDITOR Rhonda Lee Lother CONTRIBUTING ST YLIST
COPY EDITOR Meg Lundberg
Erin Jeanne McDowell

CREATIVE DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHY
TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Irene Yeh
Mac Jamieson ASSISTANT TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Melissa Gray
FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS
SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER
John O’Hagan Laura Crandall, Kathleen Kanen, Tricia Manzanero,
Vanessa Rocchio, Jade Sinacori, Elizabeth Stringer
PHOTOGRAPHERS
ASSISTANT FOOD ST YLIST/RECIPE DEVELOPER
Jim Bathie, William Dickey, Nicole Du Bois,
Stephanie Welbourne Steele Anita Simpson Spain
RECIPE TESTER Ashley Jones
ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER Caroline Smith
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS CONTRIBUTING FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS
Matt Armendariz, Mark Weinberg Jake Cohen, Jesse Szewczyk
SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST
Delisa McDaniel
DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Clark Densmore

D I G I TA L M E D I A A D M I N I S T R AT I V E
MARKETING DIRECTOR Tricia Wagner Williams HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR
Vicky Lewis
MARKETING COORDINATOR Judy Brown Lazenby
SENIOR ONLINE EDITOR Courtney duQuesnay IT DIRECTOR Matthew Scott Holt
DIGITAL DESIGNER Stephanie Lambert DEALER PROGRAM MANAGER Janice Ritter
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT/EDITORIAL Alex Kolar

I N T E G R AT E D M A R K E T I N G S O LU T I O N S

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Hagan Media/Katie Hagan [AL, FL, TN] MARKETING DIRECTOR Megan McIllwain
Kathy Gross [FL, GA, MD, NC, SC, VA, DC, WV] ADVERTISING PRODUCTION REPRESENTATIVE
Katie Guasco [LA, MS] Kimberly Lewis
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[IL, IN, IA, KS, MN, MO, NE, OH, WI] For assistance with advertising, please call (888) 411-8995.
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CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD/CEO Phyllis Hofman DePiano

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EVP/OPERATIONS & MANUFACTURING Brooke Michael Bell
Greg Baugh VP/SHELTER CONTENT Cindy Smith Cooper
VP/DIGITAL MEDIA Jon Adamson

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 from the editor
IT’S THE MOST WONDERFUL TIME
OF THE YEAR . . . FOR BAKING!
I’m a huge fan of baking with molasses year-round, but
there is something about combining it with the baker’s
quintet (ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and allspice) to
create gingerbread that makes it my holiday obsession. If the
cookies on the cover aren’t enough motivation, wait until
you see our four other iterations of gingerbread, starting on
page 87. I can promise you’ll see the Gingerbread Morning
Buns in my Instagram feed on Christmas Day (if they last
long enough to take a photo). I’ll hopefully be baking them
in the Mauviel copper molds we included in our baker’s
holiday wish list (page 23) because that’s what this baker
really wants under the tree. Check out the guide to see
which gift you want this year. (If you’re anything like me, it
will be all of them!)

In the days leading up to Christmas, I’ll be baking the

ultimate make-ahead holiday treat: stollen. This boozy fruit-
studded, marzipan-filled bread actually just gets better with
time, so it’s perfect for a mid-December bake. And with our
step-by-step guides, I have no doubt that you will master
this storied German classic and make it a part of your annual
baking list!

For gifting this holiday season, I’ll be baking the Chocolate

Everything Thumbprint Cookies (page 77) for loved ones.
They feature not one but two types of Guittard chocolate.
On page 69, we take an exclusive look inside the 150-year-
old California-based company’s factory and give you the
lowdown on cacao percentage and how to choose the best
chocolate for baking.

Between our back page Eggnog Babka Knots and those

curling, sunny-gold St. Lucia Buns, you know I’ll be
twirling—and twisting—it up this holiday season in my
kitchen!
Visit
bakefromscratch.com
Happy Baking, and follow us
for daily baking
inspiration.

Bake from Scratch

Brian Hart Hoffman
Editor-in-Chief
@thebakefeed

@thebakefeed

november | december 2018 8

contributors

Jake
Edd
Terrence
Alice
Jesse

Alice Medrich
What baking gift are you hoping for this holiday season? “I’d love
Author, chocolate chef, and teacher Alice Medrich has won more
a KitchenAid stand mixer, ideally in seafoam green. My current
James Beard and IACP Cookbook of the Year and Best in Category
stand mixer is garbage, and it’s also not seafoam green.”
awards than any other author. She is credited with popularizing
chocolate truffles in the United States through her introduction of the
“American” chocolate truffle at her influential dessert shop, Cocolat,
Jake Cohen
Jake Cohen is a food writer, recipe developer, and nice Jewish boy
in the 1970s.
from NYC. After working in some of Manhattan’s best kitchens, he
What baking gift are you hoping for this holiday season? “I want a transitioned into media before taking his current role as the restaurant
new toy! Maybe a sous vide device, dehydrator, or pacojet!” critic of Time Out New York. When he isn’t cooking, he’s eating, baking,
and making puns about his culinary escapades on Instagram.
Jesse Szewczyk
What baking gift are you hoping for this holiday season? “A real
Jesse Szewczyk is a food writer and recipe developer based in New York
turntable for decorating cakes. I’ve been using this old serving tray
City, New York. He lives with his partner, Kyle (an actual pastry chef);
that has a rotating vinyl record on it, so it’s time to upgrade!”
his dog, Fig; and a roommate who has never cut an onion before. He has
a degree from the Culinary Institute of America and a strong interest in
pasta shapes. He combats his work stresses by baking cookies at night.
Edd Kimber
Edd Kimber is a baker and food writer from London, England. Since
What baking gift are you hoping for this holiday season? “One of winning the 2010 season of The Great British Bake Off, he has appeared
those giant 3-pound buckets of Maldon sea salt. Not only because I on multiple TV shows and written three best-selling baking books. As
love it but because I’m a one-trick pony who sprinkles flaky sea salt our contributing editor, Edd is again bringing some British baking
over everything I bake.” know-how to us from across the pond.

What baking gift are you hoping for this holiday season? “I’d love to
Terrence Doyle
learn more about sourdough, so a hands-on class at my favorite bakery
Terrence Doyle is a writer from Boston, Massachusetts. After living in
would be a wonderful gift.”
Glasgow, Scotland, for a couple years, and in Paris, France, for a couple
more after that, he gained an adventurous palate, becoming a devoted
fan of both haggis and croissants. He satisfies his worldly cravings by
exploring Boston’s diverse food scene, from Israeli-influenced bakeries
to dim sum houses.

9 bake from scratch

recipe index on the cover
Gingerbread Chai
Cookies
BARS AND COOKIES page 94
Apricot Linzer Cookies 44 PHOTOGRAPHY BY
Chocolate Chunk, Tofee, STEPHANIE
and Pomegranate Cookie WELBOURNE STEELE
Bars 86 RECIPE DEVELOPMENT
AND FOOD STYLING BY
Classic Shortbread 43 ELIZABETH STRINGER
Everything Chocolate STYLING BY
BETH K. SEELEY
Thumbprint Cookies 77
Gingerbread Chai
Cookies 94
Hazelnut Butter Cookies 33 Hazelnut Mocha Whipped Caramelized
Millionaire Bars 43 Dacquoise 31 White Chocolate
Sage, Asiago, and Pecan One-Layer Gingerbread Ganache 67
Savory Shortbread Cake 93
Pomegranate Molasses MISCELLANEOUS
Coins 44 Apricot Raspberry Filling 44
Salty Caramelized White Gingerbread Cake 85
Prune and Armagnac Browned Butter 42
Chocolate Blondies 68 Candied Zest 48
Christmas Pudding 57
BREAD Caramelized Shallots 101
Clover Beer Rolls 100 FROSTINGS, Caramelized White
Crescent Rolls 102 GARNISHES, AND Chocolate 65
Double Gingerbread GLAZES Caramelized White
Scones 93 Brandy Crème Anglaise 112 Chocolate Bark 68
Eggnog Babka Knots 112 Candied Hazelnuts 33 Chai Spice 94
Gingerbread Morning Chocolate Sauce 58 Chestnut Praline Caramel
Buns 94 Dark Chocolate Drip 68 Filling 43
Meyer Lemon Pomegranate Dark Chocolate Chestnut Praline Paste 43
Muins 86 Ganache 43 Eggnog Custard Filling 42
Mini Stollen Loaves 51 Espresso French Ganache Filling 31
Pull-Apart Rolls 101 Buttercream 31 Gingerbread Filling 94
Sour Cream Knots 101 Frangipane 12 Meringue 31
St. Lucia Buns 106 Ganache 77 Roasted Garlic 100
Stollen Wreaths 50 Ganache Glaze 31 Vanilla Bean Marzipan 51
Traditional Stollen 48 Hazelnut Butter 34 PASTRIES, PIES, AND
Hazelnut Buttercream 34 TARTS
CAKES Hazelnut Streusel 30
Chocolate-Frangipane Caramelized White
Meringue Frosting 93 Chocolate Chess Pie 67
Bundt Cake 12 Orange Glaze 30
Cranberry-Hazelnut Cofee Caramelized White
Pomegranate Glaze 86 Chocolate Choux
Cake 30 Pomegranate Molasses 86
Dark Chocolate Cake with Pufs 66
Poppy Seed Streusel 86 Eggnog Custard Tart 42
Whipped Caramelized Rum Frosting 93
White Chocolate Hazelnut Financiers 33
Scone Glaze 94 Pie Dough 67
Ganache 67 Simple Glaze 94
Gingerbread Layer Cake Pomegranate Cranberry
Vanilla Cream Cheese Curd Tart 84
with Rum Frosting 93 Frosting 86 Salty Peanut Crust 84

resources RECIPE CORRECTIONS

While we aim for perfection with each of our recipes, we do make the occasional
mistake. Here is a correction from a past issue:
Editor’s Letter
Page 8 QUICK BREAD SPECIAL ISSUE 2018:
West End Performance Woven Shirt Peach and Blueberry Cornmeal Muffins, page 19: Makes 14 jumbo muins. Use
1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking powder and ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams)
in Woven Navy from Southern Marsh, baking soda. In step 3, top each muin with ½ cup Almond Streusel. For
southernmarsh.com. updated Almond Streusel recipe, visit bakefromscratch.com/peach-blueberry-
Apron from White Bark Workwear, cornmeal-muins/.
whitebarkworkwear.com.

november | december 2018 10

retro redo
CHOCOLATE-FRANGIPANE
BUNDT CAKE
BY JAKE COHEN
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK WEINBERG
STYLING BY ERIN JEANNE MCDOWELL

A NEW YORK FOOD AFICIONADO PROVES THERE’S STILL BEAUTY

(AND DELICIOUSNESS) IN EVEN THE SIMPLEST OF RECIPES. HE UPS
THE ELEGANCE AND INDULGENCE WITH HIS ALMOND-RICH TAKE
ON A CLASSIC CHOCOLATE BUNDT CAKE.
A
s kids growing up in Queens, New York, my sister and I loved to pastry filling adds moisture and a rich, nutty flavor to the cake while
help our mom in the kitchen. A sibling rivalry brewed early on as simultaneously lacing it with even more sweetness.) That’s right—my
we fought over who would get to crack the eggs when we helped beloved cake was made with two store-bought ingredients. Nevertheless,
her bake (our mother kept the peace, giving each of us one and cracking it was the centerpiece at the celebration of every childhood birthday,
the rest herself). I remember feeling like a bona fide pastry chef as I Jewish High Holy Day, and straight-A report card. When I’d come home
aided her in preparing her signature Chocolate Marzipan Bundt Cake. from culinary school, my mom would send me back to the dorms with
Every slice was a sugary sensation, leaving me dumbfounded at how one one in hand for my roommates and me to devour.
woman could invent such a masterpiece.
My mother still makes this cake today, now for slightly novel special
But like many recollections of childhood reexamined as an adult, my occasions—be it my husband’s birthday or my sister’s promotion. She
perception of the Bundt’s grandeur was eventually changed by the always keeps the two ingredients stocked in her pantry, ready to bring a
revelation of its simplistic composition: It’s a box of devil’s food cake mix little extra sweetness to the ones she loves.
with a can of Solo-brand almond pastry filling stirred in. (The almond
—Jake Cohen, New York City, New York

THE REDO
CHOCOLATE-FRANGIPANE 2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking soda the back of a spoon to spread evenly. Top with
BUNDT CAKE 1⅛ teaspoons (3 grams) kosher salt, divided remaining batter, and smooth with a spatula.
Makes 1 (10-cup) Bundt cake 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder 5. Bake until risen and a wooden pick inserted
Frangipane (recipe follows) near center comes out clean, 55 to
A hidden pocket of velvety homemade Frangipane 1½ cups (180 grams) confectioners’ sugar 60 minutes, rotating pan halfway through
and a decadent almond glaze invigorate this 3 tablespoons (45 grams) heavy whipping baking. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove
Bundt, elevating it from a tasty dessert to a cream from pan, and let cool completely on a wire
sophisticated masterpiece worthy of serving as the Garnish: toasted sliced almonds rack.
grand finale to your holiday feast. 6. In a medium bowl, whisk together
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease confectioners’ sugar, cream, remaining
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter a 10-cup Bundt pan* with butter, and dust ½ teaspoon (2 grams) almond extract, and
2 cups (480 grams) whole buttermilk generously with cocoa to coat, tapping out remaining ⅛ teaspoon salt until smooth. Drizzle
2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature excess. glaze over cooled cake. Garnish with toasted
1 tablespoon (6 grams) instant espresso 2. In a small saucepan, melt butter over almonds, if desired.
powder medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) almond extract, butter turns a medium-brown color and has *I used Nordic Ware’s Anniversary Bundt Pan.
divided a nutty aroma, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove from
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract heat. FRANGIPANE
2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar 3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with Makes 1⅓ cups
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour the whisk attachment, beat browned butter,
¾ cup (64 grams) Dutch process cocoa buttermilk, eggs, espresso powder, 1 teaspoon 1 cup (96 grams) almond flour
powder, plus more for dusting pan (4 grams) almond extract, and vanilla at ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
medium speed until smooth. ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, melted
4. In a large bowl, whisk together granulated and cooled
sugar, flour, cocoa, baking soda, 1 teaspoon 1 large egg (50 grams), room temperature
(3 grams) salt, and baking powder. Switch to 1 tablespoon (8 grams) all-purpose flour
the paddle attachment. With mixer on low 1 teaspoon (4 grams) almond extract
speed, gradually add sugar mixture to butter ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
mixture, beating until smooth. Pour half of
batter into prepared pan, smoothing top with 1. In a medium bowl, stir together all ingredients
a spatula. Spoon Frangipane over batter, using until a smooth paste forms.

THE RETRO
For Jake’s mother’s retro Chocolate Marzipan Bundt Cake recipe, go to
bakefromscratch.com/chocolate-marzipan-bundt-cake. •

november | december 2018 12

bakery pro²le
 TATTE TAKES OVER

OVER THE COURSE OF JUST A DECADE, TATTE

T
atte Bakery & Café is a micro-empire with 11 outposts snaking
throughout the Greater Boston area of Massachusetts. It’s the
BAKERY & CAFÉ HAS GROWN FROM A HOME city’s fastest-growing bakery and café—and for good reason.

KITCHEN OPERATION INTO A FAVORITE PURVEYOR Take, for instance, Tatte’s (pronounced like latte) Harvard Square
shop at the heart of Cambridge, what founder Tzurit Or refers to as
OF PÂTISSERIE IN BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS “the full Tatte experience.”

On the first level (it’s a large, sprawling location), customers shuffle

across a graphic floor decorated with hexagonal tiles of white, black,
BY TERRENCE DOYLE and gray. White subway tiles line the walls, and the coffee bar and
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY
tables are topped with white marble. It’s a clean, well-lit space, the
TATTE BAKERY & CAFÉ
prime backdrop for aesthetically pleasing, Instagram-perfect photos.
Behind the till, busy bakers mix batter and knead dough among
 speed racks full of cooling breads and pastries. During
the school year, as Cambridge erupts into a jostling
college town, the second floor is filled with caffeinated go there
students spread out at community tables with
Tatte Bakery & Café
homework, cafés au lait, and empty plates scattered
with the crumbs of just-devoured muffins and toasty Visit tattebakery.com for a
paninis. The warm scent of freshly baked bread is a complete list of their bakery
locations.
constant reminder that all of Tatte’s tangy sourdough,
rustic French baguettes, and tender challah pour out
of this signature location.

Such is the romantic environment Tzurit has created

with Tatte. And we haven’t even gotten to the
world-class pastry she’s churning out. A self-taught
baker, Tzurit delivers one of the most versatile,
creative bakery menus in Boston. The breadth of her
baking knows no limits. She rocks out on everything
from the simplest of baked goods (her buttermilk
biscuit is fluffy, buttery bliss) to the most advanced
forms of pâtisserie (think decadent poached pear tarts
and Belgian chocolate mousse cakes). Don’t miss the
Chocolate Rose. It’s shaped like a morning bun, the
interior of which is laced with a hot cocoa filling. Cut
into the tightly packed scroll, and admire the swirling
chocolate interior.

Tzurit’s global palate and varied tastes come from

her upbringing in Tel Aviv, Israel. Growing up, Tzurit
functioned as her mother’s helper in the kitchen,
learning the intricacies of all manner of dough, from
yeasted rolls to halva to piecrust. “One of my all-time
favorite dishes to make and eat was the cheesecake,”
Tzurit says. “We used to make double the crust and
topping we needed just for us to snack on; it was that
good. Those same cheesecakes and yeasted rolls I made
growing up are the ones we offer at Tatte today.”
Tatte also offers savory items reminiscent of Tzurit’s
homeland—cheese bourekas, Jerusalem bagels,
fattoush, and one of the best versions of shakshuka
you’re likely to find: Enjoy dipping fresh baked challah
into a slightly spicy tomato sauce spiked with bell
peppers, feta cheese, and parsley, with eggs that poach
directly in the sauce.

15 bake from scratch

But of all of Tatte’s pastries, the croissant is perhaps the one that shines she opened the first brick-and-mortar version of Tatte in 2007 on Beacon
brightest. The bakery offers 11 different incarnations, with flavors ranging Street in Brookline, less than a mile from the baseball mecca of Fenway Park.
from monkey bread to pistachio. One of the bakery’s most popular, the More than a decade later, Tzurit—thanks in part to investment from Panera
buttery Apple Croissant, recalls a crunchy, sugary bite of apple pie. You can Bread—operates 11 Tatte locations in Boston, Cambridge, and Brookline.
tell from each bite that to make a Tatte croissant is a labor of love. To Tzurit,
Further expansion seems to be on the horizon for Tatte.
all baking is.
“Our mission is to inspire and touch every person, neighborhood, and city
Opening bakeries wasn’t initially Tzurit’s plan. For more than a decade, she
with the Tatte experience,” says Tzurit. “Tatte provides so many people a
worked in film production. Tzurit says she moved to the United States in
sense of home, a place they feel they belong, a place they love sharing with
2003 with every intention of continuing along that career path, but cultural
their loved ones. It’s magical.”
differences and a language barrier proved daunting. So she started to bake.
For now, one must come to Boston for a taste of Tzurit’s exquisite baked
She began baking in her home kitchen—for up to 20 hours a day—and sold
goods. But that might not be the case for very long. •
her goods to various farmers’ markets in Boston. After just one summer,

november | december 2018 18

from the pantry

THE FRAGRANT SPICE

SP CE THAT WARMS THE WINTRY
W NTRY SEASON HAS MADE AN EPIC
EP C JOURNEY
HE SPICE
FROM THE SP CE ISLANDS
SLANDS TOO YOUR SPICE
SP CE DRAWER
BY KYLE GRACE MILLS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHANIE WELBOURNE STEELE / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
N
utmeg: the spice that launched a thousand ships, expeditions, and trade wars. It also
happens to be the celebrated key ingredient to our merriest of holiday sweets. As soon as
you open the spice jar or begin grating delicate shavings from the seed, the warm aroma
immediately transports you to cozy evenings by the fireplace sipping a spice-dusted cup of eggnog.
Nutmeg’s history tells a fascinating but decidedly less romantic tale.

Nutmeg made a mysterious appearance on European tables in the sixth century. It became a
medieval sensation, a luxurious ingredient that held medicinal qualities including but not limited
to a cure for the common cold, nervous disorders, and the bubonic plague. The aristocrats who
could afford it knew it came from the port of Venice, where it was unloaded from ships manned by
Arab traders—but the origin of the spice remained a jealously guarded secret of the traders.

Once the Ottomans ceased trade with the Venetians in the 1400s, the coveted spice vanished as
quickly as it had appeared. Opportunistic European explorers took to the oceans in search of
the famed spice. The Portuguese were the first to locate a small smattering of volcanic
islands that grew the Myristica fragrans tree, bearer of nutmeg. This ill-fated archipelago,
the Banda Islands of Indonesia, was the only place on earth that grew nutmeg.
Located about 1,243 miles east of Java, Indonesia, the islands became ground
zero for many bloody trade wars fought between the Dutch, English, and
Portuguese, mostly at the direct cost of the indigenous Bandanese. The
Dutch were particularly aggressive, massacring and enslaving the local
population as they waged a bloody campaign for total dominance. For
hundreds of years, the Dutch maintained a fierce monopoly over the
nutmeg trade.

Then in the mid-1700s, fate and a light-fingered French missionary

intervened. In a spectacular feat of horticultural theft, Pierre Poivre
slipped in and out of the Spice Islands with numerous nutmeg trees.
He took them to the French islands of Mauritius and Réunion,
dissolving the Dutch chokehold on the trade. Within
50 years, Pierre’s cuttings were eventually transported
to new sunbaked locales, including the Caribbean
destination commonly associated with the spice,
Grenada, the second-largest producer of
nutmeg, just behind the supreme producer,
Indonesia.

As richly documented is nutmeg’s

use as a hallucinogen. Nutmeg

november | december 2018 20

 Whole nutmeg from The Spice
House, thespicehouse.com;
$15.49 for 4 ounces

Ground Grenada nutmeg from Penzeys,

penzeys.com; $5.59 for 1 ounce

contains a chemical called myristicin, a relative of amphetamine, which many fall spice blends, from pumpkin spice to chai mix. In concert
can cause hallucinations when taken in significant doses. Malcolm with cinnamon, it’ll often bring sweet heat to your Thanksgiving
X mentioned it as a popular prison drug in his autobiography, and apple, pecan, and butternut squash pies.
Albert Hoffman, the inventor of LSD, often praised its psychedelic side
effects. But the same chemicals that make it so intoxicating also make Though you can buy ground nutmeg for convenience, the best,
it poisonous when taken in extreme quanties (although research on most potent flavor comes from freshly grated nutmeg (see Grate
the exact fatal dosage is sketchy at best). Expectations). The oils in the ground nutmeg will go rancid over time.
In fact, freshly grated nutmeg is so much more powerful than the store-
Despite its unsavory beginnings and toxic qualities, nutmeg has earned bought ground supply that you’ll need to be careful when exchanging
a solid place in modern tradition. Its culinary influence reaches beyond one or the other when baking. If the recipe calls for 2 teaspoons ground
sweets and is also valued in the realm of savory goods, like French nutmeg, you should use 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg (as the flavor
béchamel, Italian ragu, Scottish haggis, and Indian masala. But in the is roughly twice as strong). The same goes for the inverse situation—if
United States, particularly during the holiday season, nutmeg is the the recipe calls for 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg and you only have
warm base for everything from cakes and pies to rich, creamy eggnog. pre-ground on hand, double the portion called for.
Nutmeg’s intense flavor stands strong against chocolate, pumpkin,
coffee, and other wintry tastes. The heady, warm punch nutmeg As for storage, pack your whole nutmeg in an airtight container to
imparts to desserts can be too intense for the breezy days of summer, keep it fresh in between shavings. But don’t store indefinitely because
but it’s perfectly at home during the holiday season, cutting through even the seeds lose their potency over time, three to four years. Come
decadent custards, pastries, and puddings with toasty aplomb. Nutmeg the holidays, you’ll know that you have the finest spice within arm’s
also plays well with other spices, and you can find it incorporated in reach—a luxury nearly 1,500 years in the making.

21 bake from scratch

 Ground mace from Penzeys,
Mace blade from The Spice House, penzeys.com; $8.29 for 0.9 ounces
thespicehouse.com; $8.49 for 1.5 ounces

GRATE MACE: THE

SECOND SPICE
EXPECTATIONS Wrapped around the nutmeg seed is a scarlet
aril covering better known as mace. Once
removed from the nutmeg, mace resembles a
Three ways to grind nutmeg (and the best tools for the job). tendril-like flower and fades in color from red
to orange to gold as it ages. Use a spice mill
Nutmeg Mill to grind up mace because it is slightly harder
Depending on the brand you get (we chose the venerable French brand Peugeot), the mill
will produce fine shavings of fresh nutmeg with either a crank handle or turn top. We like that to grate than nutmeg. Freshly ground mace
Peugeot’s handsome mill pulls double duty as both a grinder and an airtight container to store is more intense than pre-ground, just like
loose nutmeg. nutmeg. Because of its stronger flavor, mace is
We Like: Peugeot Ternate Nutmeg Mill; wayfair.com, $40.54 less popular than nutmeg, but you’ll find it still
plays a vital part in several holiday classics. Find
Nutmeg Grater it in our Gingerbread Morning Buns, page 94.
Normally curved outward into an arc with a small-hole grater, this tool is easy to use and
produces perfectly grated nutmeg. Be careful when grating, though—the grates are sharp, so
slips can prove painful.
We Like: HIC Nutmeg Grater; amazon.com, $6.05 BAKE WITH NUTMEG
In this issue, don’t miss:
Microplane Eggnog Custard Tart, page 42
Chances are you already have a Microplane in your kitchen and use it for a number of tasks,
from zesting lemons to mincing garlic. This can also finely grate nutmeg; just make sure that it’s Stollen Wreaths, page 50
scrupulously clean before using it for this spicy task. Double Gingerbread Scones, page 93
We Like: Microplane Soft-Handle Zest Grater, 12"; surlatable.com, $14.95
Eggnog Babka Knots, page 112 •

november | december 2018 22

 WHAT A BAKER WANTS
WITH YOU, THE HOME BAKER, IN MIND, WE’RE DELIVERING THE BEST WISH LIST-WORTHY GIFTS OF THE
SEASON, HIGHLIGHTING THE LATEST COOKBOOKS, MUST-HAVE BAKING PANS, AND SOPHISTICATED
SERVING DISHES
1
1. MAUVIEL M’PASSION MINI
COPPER SOUFFLÉ MOLDS
Excellent conductors of heat, these copper molds can
be used for more than soulés, helping you get a crisp,
2 caramelized crust on cinnamon rolls, kouign amann, and
morning buns.
mauvielusa.com, $65 each

Where We Use It: Gingerbread Morning Buns, page 94

2. GOBEL NONSTICK FLUTED

BARQUETTE MOLDS
Fluted and petite, these 5-inch barquette molds bring a
touch of fancy to miniature Breton tarts, financiers, or
petit fours.
surlatable.com, $4 each

Where We Use It: Hazelnut Financiers, page 33

3. PEUGEOT TERNATE NUTMEG MILL

Peugeot has been churning out handcrafted spice mills
and grinders since the 18th century, and we’re obsessed
with their nutmeg-focused mill, which combines form,
function, and class, with a powerful grinder on the
3 4 bottom and sleek nutmeg seed container on top.
wayfair.com, $40.54

Where We Use It: Nutmeg, page 22

4. HEILALA VANILLA BEAN PASTE,

EXTRACT, AND POWDER
Say hello to our new obsession: Heilala Vanilla. The New
Zealand-based company provides superior vanilla—
grown in the Kingdom of Tonga—that is harvested using
sustainable practices, and uses a business model that
helps support and invigorate the local economy.
heilalavanilla.com; paste: $14.97 for 2 fluid ounces;
extract: $14.72 for 1.69 fluid ounces; powder: $39.97
for 0.88 ounces

Where We Use It: Eggnog Babka Knots, page 112;

Shortbread, pages 37–46

23 bake from scratch

5

6
5. GUITTARD EUREKA WORKS 6. MASON CASH STEAM
150TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED BOWL (PUDDING
EDITION 62% CACAO BAR BASIN)
In celebration of their 150th year as one of the Bring a touch of old British charm
best chocolatiers in the country, San Francisco, to your baking with this 0.95-quart
California-based Guittard released this supreme pudding basin from Mason Cash, a
bar that packs a “West Coast flavor” courtesy of British company that’s been turning
a blend of cocoa beans gathered through historic out fine bakeware for over 200 years.
Pacific Ocean trade routes. The bar’s fruit- Oh, and a royal tip: A figgy pudding-
forward flavors—notes of pineapple, dark cherry, filled Mason Cash basin is a favorite
banana, and even a touch of citrus—make it ideal gift given by the Queen to her staf.
for both eating and baking. amazon.com, $7.75
guittard.com, $29.95 for a 500-gram bar
Where We Use It: Prune and
Where We Use It: Everything Chocolate Armagnac Christmas Pudding, page 57
Thumbprint Cookies, page 77

november | december 2018 24

 11

12

7 8 9 10

7. THE NORDIC BAKING BOOK BY 9. ALL ABOUT CAKE BY CHRISTINA 11. LEBKUCHEN FROM
MAGNUS NILSSON (Phaidon Press) TOSI (Clarkson Potter) LECKERLEE
A follow-up to The Nordic Cookbook, this Milk Bar founder and all-around dessert genius Packed inside this colorful, collectable tin are
enormous treatise on Nordic baking highlights Christina Tosi is back with a brand-new book that tall stacks of Nuremberg-style gingerbread,
every last bit of pearl sugar-crusted, cardamom- celebrates her famous naked layer cakes, with lebkuchen. Hailing from the bakery Leckerlee in
scented baked good that hails from the icy plenty of baking wisdom to spare on buttercream, New York City, New York, these cookies bring a bit
region, with helpful techniques and history tucked syrup soaks, and cake trules. of Old-World authenticity to the table. Headed to
between each recipe. amazon.com, $35 the Union Square Holiday Market? They’ll be sold
phaidon.com, $49.95 there, too!
10. MODERN BAKING BY DONNA leckerlee.com, $25
8. SUQAR BY GREG & LUCY HAY (4th Estate) 12. HONEYCOMB STUDIO
MALOUF (Hardie Grant) Meet Donna Hay, a luminary of the Australian CERAMIC CAKE STAND
An in-depth examination of Middle Eastern baking scene and your new sweets guru. Her latest
It may look like brassy metal, but this rustic yet
sweets, veteran cookbook authors Greg and Lucy tome collects straightforward, sumptuous recipes
chic cake stand is kiln-fired ceramic, a lightweight
Malouf explore some of the lesser-known gems and vibrant, innovative photography into one
alternative that won’t afect the taste of your
the area has to ofer, including cardamom fritters, gorgeous volume, making it a veritable goldmine of
baked goods like some metals will.
Lemon Curd Ma’amoul, and date tiramisù. baking inspiration.
honeycomb-studio.com, $80
amazon.com, $40 amazon.com, $40

25 bake from scratch

13. TATTE SIGNATURE GIFT BOX 13 14
If you’ve read our bakery profile on Tatte (page 13),
you’ll know everything they bake is an instant classic.
Get a well-rounded taste of the bakery with their
signature gift box, an assortment of walnut strudel,
butter cookies, and nuts.
tatte.com, $45

14. CHAMBORD BLACK RASPBERRY

LIQUEUR
This French liqueur has earned a revered place on your
bar cart—now bring it into your baking. Its plummy fruit
notes come from raspberries, blackberries, and currants
while Madagascar vanilla and French cognac round it
out. Add it to your jammy fillings and syrup reductions,
or add a splash to your flute of Champagne. 15
Check your local beverage store for availability or go to
arlingtonwine.net, $20.99 for 375 ml

Where We Use It: Apricot Linzer Cookies, page 44

15. FESTIVE SNOWFLAKE

SHORTBREAD PANS
Simply press your shortbread dough into either one
of these pans (take your pick between Brown Bag’s
ceramic Snowflake Shortbread Pan and Nordic Ware’s
Shortbread Pan in their classic aluminum) and you’ll have
perfect squares of wintry decadence.
emersoncreekpottery.com, $34.95; nordicware.com, $40

Where We Use It: Classic Shortbread, page 43

HOMEMADE GIFTS
FROM THE BAKER
GIVE AS GOOD AS YOU GET
HAZELNUT BUTTER
Our homemade nut butter (page 34) tastes like rich roasted hazelnuts,
no fillers. This spread will transform plain toast, a flufernutter sandwich, or
that next batch of homemade peanut butter cups.

CARAMELIZED WHITE CHOCOLATE

A big batch of this caramelized confection (page 65) can be broken into
sweet shards of chocolate worth their weight in gold. Another option? Add
nuts and dried fruit to the rich melty mess before it hardens to create our
instantly crave-able Caramelized White Chocolate Bark (page 68).

POMEGRANATE MOLASSES
This classic Indian condiment is just pomegranate juice reduced to thick,
viscous syrup. Have a friend who leans more toward the savory? This tangy
ingredient (page 86) is an excellent addition to a cheese plate, marinade,
or salad dressing! •
Haute Hazelnuts
THE SWEET, BUTTERY NUT STARS IN EVERYTHING FROM A DACQUOISE FEATURING
AN ESPRESSO-LACED BUTTERCREAM TO A CRUNCHY COFFEE CAKE LOADED WITH
CRANBERRIES, ORANGE ZEST, AND CRÈME FRAÎCHE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHANIE WELBOURNE STEELE

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY LAURA CRANDALL
STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAGIEL
Hazelnut Butter Cookies
page 33
29 bake from scratch
CRANBERRY-HAZELNUT COFFEE (300 grams) flour, baking powder, and salt.
CAKE Gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture
Makes 1 (10-inch) cake alternately with crème fraîche, beginning and
ending with flour mixture, beating just until
Our moist cofee cake blends buttery hazelnuts combined after each addition. Stir in hazelnuts.
and bright cranberries while a crunchy Hazelnut 4. In a small bowl, toss together cranberries and
Streusel and zesty Orange Glaze finish it of. remaining 1 tablespoon (8 grams) flour. Gently fold
cranberries into batter. Spoon batter into prepared
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened pan, smoothing top. Top with Hazelnut Streusel.
1¼ cups (275 grams) firmly packed light 5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted near center
brown sugar comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes, loosely
3 large eggs (150 grams) covering with foil during last 15 minutes of baking
Zest of 1 orange (9 grams) to prevent excess browning, if necessary. (Cake
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract made with fresh cranberries will bake more quickly,
2½ cups (300 grams) plus 1 tablespoon by about 5 minutes, than cake made with frozen.)
(8 grams) all-purpose flour, divided Let cool in pan for 30 minutes. Remove from pan,
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder and let cool completely on a wire rack. Drizzle with
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt Orange Glaze. Store in airtight container at room
1 cup (240 grams) crème fraîche temperature for up to 4 days. To prevent cake from
½ cup (64 grams) chopped dry roasted drying out, tightly wrap in plastic wrap.
unsalted hazelnuts
1½ cups (143 grams) fresh or frozen cranberries HAZELNUT STREUSEL
Hazelnut Streusel (recipe follows) Makes 2⅓ cups
Orange Glaze (recipe follows)
⅔ cup (64 grams) hazelnut flour
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter and ½ cup (60 grams) all-purpose flour
flour a 10-inch tube pan. ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the Zest of 1 orange (9 grams)
paddle attachment, beat butter and brown ¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) ground cinnamon
sugar at medium speed until flufy, 3 to ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of ¼ cup (57 grams) cold unsalted butter, cubed
bowl. Reduce mixer speed to low. Add ½ cup (64 grams) chopped roasted hazelnuts
eggs, one at a time, beating well after each
addition. Stir in zest and vanilla. 1. In a medium bowl, whisk together flours,
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together 2½ cups sugar, zest, cinnamon, and salt. Using your
fingers, cut in cold butter until mixture is
crumbly and desired consistency is reached.
Stir in hazelnuts. Freeze until ready to use.

ORANGE GLAZE
Makes ½ cup

1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons (25 grams)
fresh orange juice

1. In a small bowl, whisk together confectioners’

sugar and orange juice until smooth. Use
immediately.
 HAZELNUT MOCHA DACQUOISE 6 large egg whites (180 grams) 2 large egg yolks (37 grams), room
Makes 1 (10x3-inch) cake ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar temperature
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract 1½ cups (340 grams) unsalted butter,
To eat a slice of dacquoise is to go on an adventure softened
in texture. This hazelnut and cofee triumph has 1. Preheat oven to 225°F (107°C). Line an 1 tablespoon (6 grams) espresso powder
alternating layers of crispy hazelnut Meringue, silky 18x13-inch baking sheet with parchment 1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste
espresso buttercream, and fudgy ganache. paper. Draw 3 (10x3-inch) rectangles at least ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
3 inches apart on parchment; turn parchment
Meringue (recipe follows) over, and spray with cooking spray. 1. In a small saucepan, bring sugar and
Ganache Filling (recipe follows) 2. In a medium bowl, combine nut flours. Add ¼ cup (60 grams) water to a boil over high
Espresso French Buttercream (recipe follows) confectioners’ sugar and salt, stirring until well heat, without stirring. Cook until mixture
Ganache Glaze (recipe follows) combined. Sift. registers 240°F (116°C) on an instant-read
Garnish: toasted sliced almonds, chopped 3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the thermometer.
toasted hazelnuts whisk attachment, beat egg whites at medium 2. Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer
speed until soft peaks form, about 4 minutes. fitted with the whisk attachment, beat eggs
1. Gently peel Meringue of parchment paper. With mixer running, add granulated sugar in and egg yolks at medium-high speed until pale
Using a serrated knife, trim edges so they are three additions, beating well after each addition, and light, 4 to 5 minutes. Reduce mixer speed
even and each rectangle is the same size. (Try about 15 seconds. Increase mixer speed to to medium-low. Pour hot sugar syrup into egg
not to press down on Meringue while trimming high, and beat until meringue turns shiny, about mixture in a slow, steady stream, being careful
edges. If it breaks, you can piece it back 1 minute. Add vanilla, and beat until glossy not to hit sides of bowl or whisk attachment.
together.) Cut a cake round to the size of the medium-stif peaks form, 1 to 2 minutes. Increase mixer speed to high, and beat until
Meringue rectangles, and place one Meringue 4. Place meringue in a large bowl; fold nut flour bottom of bowl feels cool to the touch, 4 to
on top. Spoon Ganache Filling into a pastry bag mixture in quickly and gently. Gently place 5 minutes. Add butter, 1 tablespoon (14 grams)
fitted with a ½-inch round tip. Pipe a ½-inch- meringue in a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch at a time, letting each piece incorporate before
thick layer of filling on top of Meringue. Gently round tip. Pipe meringue onto drawn rectangles adding the next. (It will look broken, but keep
press a second layer of Meringue on top. Place on prepared pan, filling completely. whipping, and it will come back together.) Add
roughly half (1½ cups) of Espresso French 5. Bake until meringue is firm to the touch, about espresso powder, vanilla bean paste, and salt,
Buttercream in a pastry bag fitted with a 2 to 2½ hours. Turn oven of, and let meringue beating until well combined. Use immediately.
½-inch round tip. Pipe a layer of buttercream stand in oven with door closed for at least 6 hours
onto Meringue. Top buttercream with last layer or overnight. GANACHE GLAZE
of Meringue, top down, so flat side is facing up. Makes about 2 cups
Use remaining Espresso French Buttercream GANACHE FILLING
to fill in any gaps, and cover cake with a thin Makes about 3⁄4 cup 2 cups (340 grams) chopped bittersweet
layer of buttercream, making it as smooth as chocolate
possible. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. ⅔ cup (113 grams) chopped bittersweet 1½ cups (360 grams) heavy whipping cream
2. Place chilled cake on a wire rack set over chocolate
a rimmed sheet pan lined with plastic wrap. ½ cup (120 grams) heavy whipping cream 1. Place chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl.
Pour warm Ganache Glaze over cake, letting ½ teaspoon (1 gram) espresso powder 2. In a small saucepan, heat cream over medium
it cover top and sides of cake. Using a large heat, stirring frequently, just until steaming.
ofset spatula, level of top of cake in one swipe. 1. Place chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl. (Do not boil.) Pour hot cream over chocolate;
(Do not try to do it more than once or in short In a small saucepan, heat cream over medium let stand for 1 minute. Using a silicone spatula,
strokes—it will leave streaks in the final product. heat, stirring frequently, just until steaming. slowly stir small circles in center of bowl until
If some of the buttercream is peaking through (Do not boil.) Whisk in espresso powder. Pour cream and chocolate come together and
on the sides, you can smooth it with an ofset hot cream mixture over chocolate; let stand mixture is shiny and smooth. Let cool slightly.
spatula, but don’t worry about it too much since for 1 minute. Using a silicone spatula, slowly stir
the sides will be decorated.) Decorate sides of small circles in center of bowl until cream and
cake with almonds and hazelnuts, if desired. chocolate come together and mixture is shiny
Refrigerate in an airtight container until ready and smooth. Let cool completely. Cover and
to serve, up to 2 days. store at room temperature until ready to use or For these recipes, we used Trader Joe’s
overnight. Dry Roasted & Unsalted Hazelnuts
MERINGUE (available in stores and on amazon.com)
Makes 3 (10x3-inch) rectangles ESPRESSO FRENCH BUTTERCREAM and Bob’s Red Mill Finely Ground
Makes 3 cups
Hazelnut Meal/Flour.
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon (78 grams) almond
flour ¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar
¾ cup (72 grams) hazelnut flour ¼ cup (60 grams) water
1½ cups (180 grams) confectioners’ sugar 2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt

31 bake from scratch

HAZELNUT FINANCIERS hazelnut flour, sugar, all-purpose flour, and 1. Line a sheet pan with a nonstick baking mat.
Makes 16 salt. Add egg whites and vanilla bean paste, 2. In a small saucepan, heat sugar and
whisking until smooth. Slowly whisk in browned 1½ tablespoons (22.5 grams) water over high
Financiers are always an elegant afair—but butter mixture just until incorporated. Spoon heat. (It should look like wet sand.) Using a
baked into fluted barquette molds, they take on a batter into prepared molds or muin cups, pastry brush, brush down sides of pan using
new dimension of elegance. Our tender Hazelnut filling three-fourths full. Tap molds to level water. Cook, stirring gently, until sugar is
Financiers are sweetened with a touch of honey, batter. (If you do not have 16 molds and need dissolved and mixture is light amber colored.
but the real showstopper is its literal crowning to bake in batches, the batter will keep in the (Do not stir after mixture starts to boil.)
glory: crunchy, salty Candied Hazelnuts. refrigerator. You do not have to let it come to Immediately remove from heat, and quickly stir
room temperature before baking, but do not in hazelnuts; pour onto prepared pan. Using a
½ cup plus 4 tablespoons (169 grams) stir the batter.) With molds still on sheet pan, heatproof spatula, spread hazelnuts in a single
unsalted butter, softened and divided place in oven, and immediately reduce oven layer; sprinkle with salt. Let cool completely.
2 tablespoons (42 grams) honey temperature to 375°F (190°C). 3. Gently tap hazelnuts on sheet pan to break
1½ cups (140 grams) hazelnut flour 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in into smaller pieces, and chop using a chef’s
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (174 grams) center comes out clean, about 15 minutes, knife. Use the same day. Keep uncovered until
granulated sugar rotating pan halfway through baking. (Bake ready to use.
½ cup (60 grams) all-purpose flour mini muins for 13 to 14 minutes.) Let cool
¼ teaspoon kosher salt completely in molds. Unmold financiers, HAZELNUT BUTTER COOKIES
3 large egg whites (90 grams), room using a knife if needed. Top with Candied Makes 20
temperature Hazelnuts before serving. Financiers (without
1 tablespoon (18 grams) vanilla bean paste Candied Hazelnuts) can be stored in an airtight Step aside, Nutter Butter cookies. This hazelnut
Candied Hazelnuts (recipe follows) container at room temperature for up to revamp of a classic sandwich cookie comes
1 week. equipped with our homemade Hazelnut Butter,
1. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Using your new condiment obsession and the perfect
2 tablespoons (28 grams) softened butter, *We used Gobel Nonstick Fluted Barquette homemade holiday gift. A dip in dark chocolate
heavily grease 16 (5-inch) barquette molds* Molds, available on surlatable.com. and a roll in even more hazelnuts sends this cookie
(or a 24-cup mini muin pan). Place molds on right over the nutty edge.
a sheet pan, and freeze while preparing batter. CANDIED HAZELNUTS
2. In a medium saucepan, melt remaining ½ cup Makes about 1 cup 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened
plus 2 tablespoons (141 grams) butter over medium ⅓ cup (87 grams) Hazelnut Butter (recipe
heat. Cook until butter turns a medium-brown ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar follows)
color and has a nutty aroma, about 10 minutes. 1½ tablespoons (22.5 grams) water ½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed dark brown
Remove from heat; stir in honey. Let cool slightly. ½ cup (71 grams) dry roasted unsalted sugar
3. In a large bowl, whisk together hazelnuts, halved 1 large egg (50 grams)
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) flaked sea salt 1½ teaspoons (9 grams) vanilla bean paste
1⅔ cups (200 grams) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking soda
¾ teaspoon (3.75 grams) baking powder
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1¼ cups (100 grams) old-fashioned oats
¼ cup (28 grams) chopped dry roasted needed. Keep cut cookies in freezer until ready HAZELNUT BUTTERCREAM
unsalted hazelnuts to bake.) Makes 3½ cups
Hazelnut Buttercream (recipe follows) 7. Place Hazelnut Buttercream in a piping bag
1 (10-ounce) package (283.5 grams) dark fitted with an Ateco #855 closed star tip. Pipe ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, softened
chocolate melting wafers Hazelnut Buttercream onto flat side of half ⅓ cup (87 grams) Hazelnut Butter (recipe
Garnish: finely chopped roasted hazelnuts of cookies in a spiral starting at center. Place precedes)
remaining cookies, flat side down, on top of 4½ cups (540 grams) confectioners’ sugar
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the filling. Refrigerate for 15 minutes. ¼ cup (60 grams) heavy whipping cream
paddle attachment, beat butter and Hazelnut 8. In a microwave-safe bowl, heat chocolate ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
Butter at medium speed until smooth, about melting wafers on high in 30-second intervals,
3 minutes. Add brown sugar, and beat until stirring between each, until melted and smooth. 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
creamy, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping to scrape Let cool slightly, 3 to 5 minutes. Line a baking sheet paddle attachment, beat butter and Hazelnut
sides of bowl. Add egg and vanilla bean paste, with parchment paper. Place chopped hazelnuts Butter at medium speed until smooth, 2 to
and beat at low speed just until combined, on a plate. Dip half of each cookie in melted 3 minutes. With mixer on low speed, gradually
about 30 seconds. chocolate, and roll in hazelnuts, if desired. Place on add confectioners’ sugar alternately with
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, prepared pan. Let stand until chocolate is set, 8 to cream, beating until combined. Add salt,
baking soda, baking powder, and salt. Gradually 10 minutes. Store in an airtight container at room and beat until flufy, about 3 minutes. Use
add flour mixture to butter mixture, beating temperature if unfilled, or in refrigerator if filled, for immediately. •
just until combined. Add oats and hazelnuts, up to 3 days.
beating just until combined. Shape dough into a
disk, and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate until HAZELNUT BUTTER
firm, about 2 hours. Makes ⅔ cup
3. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Line
2 baking sheets with parchment paper. 1¼ cups (178 grams) dry roasted unsalted
4. Between two sheets of parchment paper, hazelnuts
roll dough to ¼-inch thickness. Place dough, 1½ tablespoons (18 grams) granulated sugar
between parchment, in freezer. Freeze until ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon
set, about 20 minutes. ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
5. Using a 2¼-inch round cutter, cut dough,
and place 2 inches apart on prepared pans. 1. In the work bowl of a food processor, process
6. Bake until golden brown, about 12 minutes, hazelnuts until smooth, about 3 minutes. Add
rotating pans halfway through baking. Let cool sugar, cinnamon, and salt; process until combined,
on pans for 5 minutes. Remove from pans, and about 30 seconds. Refrigerate in an airtight
let cool completely on wire racks. (While first container for up to 3 weeks.
round of cookies is baking, reroll any scraps
between parchment again, freeze until set,
and cut out cookies. Reroll
scraps a third time if

november | december 2018 34

SHORT AND SWEET
WHEN IT COMES TO SHORTBREAD, THE MORE BUTTER, THE BETTER. THAT’S WHAT DEFINES THIS CRUMBLY
SCOTTISH BISCUIT. HERE, WE’RE SHOWCASING SHORTBREAD IN ITS MOST FESTIVE FORMS—FROM AN EPIC
EGGNOG TART TO A SAVORY SPIN BEST ENJOYED WITH YOUR FAVORITE HOLIDAY APERITIF.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM DICKEY / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY ELIZABETH STRINGER / STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAGIEL
Eggnog Custard Tart
page 42
Classic Shortbread
page 43
Millionaire Bars
page 43
Sage, Asiago, and Pecan
Savory Shortbread Coins
page 44
 Apricot Linzer Cookies
page 44

november | december 2018 40

EGGNOG CUSTARD TART 8. Pour warm Eggnog Custard Filling into crust.
Makes 1 (9-inch) tart Generously dust with nutmeg and cinnamon.
9. Bake until set around the edges but still
Browned butter lends nutty depth to the slightly jiggly in center, 35 to 40 minutes. Let
shortbread crust of this sinfully indulgent dessert. cool completely on a wire rack. Garnish with
A dash of spiced rum gives the creamy eggnog white chocolate curls, if desired. This is best
custard a little kick, and an efortless pile of enjoyed the day of.
oversize white chocolate curls brings the drama.
We’d remind you this is best enjoyed the day of, *We used Heilala Vanilla Extract.
but you won’t be able to resist having a slice (or
two or three) once it’s out of the oven anyway. BROWNED BUTTER
Makes ¾ cup
Browned Butter (recipe follows), softened
⅓ cup (40 grams) confectioners’ sugar ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter
¾ teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla extract*
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt 1. In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium
1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until butter turns a
1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten medium-brown color and has a nutty aroma, 7 to
Eggnog Custard Filling (recipe follows) 10 minutes. Immediately transfer to a small bowl;
Grated fresh nutmeg and grated fresh let cool completely. Refrigerate until ready to use.
cinnamon, for dusting
Garnish: white chocolate curls EGGNOG CUSTARD FILLING
Makes 2 cups
1. Prepare Browned Butter.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the 1 cup (240 grams) half-and-half
paddle attachment, beat Browned Butter at ½ cup (120 grams) whole milk
low speed until smooth, about 1 minute. Add 1 tablespoon (15 grams) dark spiced rum
confectioners’ sugar, vanilla, and salt, beating 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract*
until combined, stopping to scrape sides of 6 large egg yolks (112 grams)
bowl. With mixer on low speed, gradually add ⅓ cup (67 grams) castor sugar (see Note)
flour, beating until combined and dough comes
together, 3 to 4 minutes. 1. In a medium saucepan, heat half-and-half,
3. Between 2 sheets of parchment paper, milk, rum, and vanilla over medium heat, stirring
roll dough into a 12-inch circle, about ⅜ inch frequently, just until bubbles form around
thick. Transfer dough, between parchment, to edges of pan. (Do not boil.) Remove from heat.
refrigerator, and let rest for 2 hours. 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg
4. Remove parchment, and carefully place yolks and castor sugar. Slowly pour in hot milk
dough in a 9-inch round removable-bottom mixture, whisking constantly. Strain mixture
tart pan. Gently press dough into bottom and through a fine-mesh sieve. Use immediately.
up sides of pan until smooth and even. Freeze
for 30 minutes to 1 hour. *We used Heilala Vanilla Extract.
5. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a
baking sheet with parchment paper. Note: To make castor sugar, in the container of
6. Remove tart pan from freezer. Place tart pan a blender or the work bowl of a food processor,
on prepared baking sheet. blend or pulse ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar
7. Bake until light golden brown around the in short bursts, 2 to 3 times, until sugar becomes
edges, 15 to 20 minutes. While crust is still superfine. If sugar reaches a powdery consistency,
warm, gently flatten any pufed areas in crust you’ve gone too far.
with the back of a spoon. Let cool completely
on a wire rack. Reduce oven temperature to
265°F (130°C).
CLASSIC SHORTBREAD MILLIONAIRE BARS CHESTNUT PRALINE CARAMEL FILLING
Makes 9 Makes 25 Makes 3 cups

Time to break out your favorite Yuletide cookie It doesn’t get much richer than Millionaire Bars. 1 cup (240 grams) heavy whipping cream
molds. Thanks to this dough’s wet nature and soft Also called millionaire’s shortbread, it traditionally ¾ cup (255 grams) light corn syrup
crumb, it holds shape and design better than any consists of a shortbread base topped with a layer ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
other biscuit on the block. Our Classic Shortbread of gooey caramel filling and chocolate. For a ½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed light brown
is crumbly, buttery bliss. You’ll never go back to sophisticated holiday spin, we added a homemade sugar
store-bought again. Chestnut Praline Paste to the caramel. A final ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter
sprinkling of cacao nibs and fleur de sel over the ¼ cup (75 grams) Chestnut Praline Paste
¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, softened velvety ganache creates an ultra-crunchy topping (recipe follows)
½ cup (60 grams) confectioners’ sugar to ofset the sweetness. ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract*
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour 1. In a 5-quart enamel-coated Dutch oven or
1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar large stainless steel saucepan, bring cream,
Garnish: confectioners’ sugar ¼ cup (32 grams) cornstarch corn syrup, sugars, and butter to a boil over
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt medium heat, stirring frequently. Cook about
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the 1¼ cups (284 grams) cold unsalted butter, 20 minutes, without stirring, until a candy
paddle attachment, beat butter at medium cubed thermometer registers 248°F (120°C).
speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Add 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds Remove from heat; add Chestnut Praline Paste
confectioners’ sugar, vanilla, and salt; beat scraped and reserved and salt, stirring to combine. Use immediately.
until smooth, about 1 minute. With mixer on Chestnut Praline Caramel Filling (recipe
low speed, gradually add flour, beating until follows) CHESTNUT PRALINE PASTE
combined. Increase mixer speed to medium, Dark Chocolate Ganache (recipe follows) Makes ½ cup
and beat until very light and flufy, about Garnish: cacao nibs, fleur de sel
5 minutes. Turn out dough onto a sheet of ½ cup (80 grams) roasted peeled chestnuts*
parchment paper, and shape into a 6-inch 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a ¼ cup (60 grams) water
square. Wrap in parchment, and refrigerate for 10-inch square baking dish with parchment 1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar
at least 1 hour or up to 3 days. paper, letting excess extend over sides of pan. ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) vanilla extract*
2. Let dough stand at room temperature for 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
30 minutes. the paddle attachment, beat flour, sugar, 1. In a medium saucepan, bring all ingredients
3. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). cornstarch, and salt at low speed for 1 minute. to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to
4. Break dough into small pieces, and begin Add cold butter and vanilla bean seeds; beat low; cover and simmer until chestnuts are
pressing pieces into bottom of an 8-inch square until a ball starts to form, 2 to 3 minutes. Press softened, about 30 minutes.
shortbread baking pan*. (The dough should become dough into bottom of prepared pan. 2. Transfer to the container of a blender; pulse
very soft as you work with it. This is important 3. Bake until edges are golden brown, about until smooth. (Alternatively, an immersion
because it helps when pressing the dough into the 30 minutes. Let cool completely in pan. blender can be used.) Use immediately, or
small crevices.) Press remaining dough into an even 4. Pour warm Chestnut Praline Caramel refrigerate in an airtight container for up to
layer in pan; prick dough all over with a fork. Filling over prepared crust. Let cool at room 1 week.
5. Bake until dough looks dry but edges have temperature for 1 hour. Wrap pan in plastic
not yet begun to turn golden, 20 to 25 minutes. wrap, and refrigerate overnight. *We used Gefen Organic Whole Roasted & Peeled
Let cool in pan for 15 minutes. Invert pan onto 5. Pour warm Dark Chocolate Ganache over Chestnuts and Heilala Vanilla Extract.
a cutting board. Hit pan with the palm of your Chestnut Praline Caramel Filling, spreading
hand until shortbread releases. Using a sharp in an even layer with an ofset spatula, if DARK CHOCOLATE GANACHE
knife, immediately slice into squares following necessary. Let set for 5 minutes. Sprinkle Makes 1½ cups
imprinted lines. Let cool completely. Garnish with cacao nibs and fleur de sel, if desired.
with confectioners’ sugar, if desired. Store in an Refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour. 10.5 ounces (315 grams) 70% cacao dark
airtight container at room temperature for up to 6. Using excess parchment as handles, remove chocolate, chopped
1 week. from pan, and cut into squares. Store in an ¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons (105 grams)
airtight container at room temperature for up heavy whipping cream
*We used Heilala Vanilla Extract and Nordic to 3 days or in refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Ware’s Snowflake Shortbread Baking Pan. 1. In the top of a double boiler, combine
PLAN AHEAD chocolate and cream. Cook over simmering
Note: Because of how soft this dough is, it works This recipe is a 2-day process. On day 1, bake water, whisking constantly, until melted and
best when baked in a cookie mold rather than the shortbread cookie base, make the Chestnut smooth. Use immediately.
using cookie stamps. Praline Caramel Filling, and top the cookie base
with the filling. Refrigerate overnight. On day
2, top with the Dark Chocolate Ganache, and
refrigerate again before slicing.
SAGE, ASIAGO, AND PECAN 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
SAVORY SHORTBREAD COINS paddle attachment, beat butter at low speed until
Makes 24 smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Add granulated sugar,
beating until creamy, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping to
This cheesy, herbaceous take on classic shortbread scrape sides of bowl. Add flours and zest, beating
will be the MVP of your next charcuterie board. until combined. Turn out dough, and shape into a
Asiago cheese imparts a salty zing that’s elevated disk. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate
by the pine-like notes of sage, resulting in a savory for at least 2 hours or up to 5 days.
coin reminiscent of the flavors of Provence. Pair 2. Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). Line
with a dry white or robust red wine and a few slices 3 baking sheets with parchment paper.
of prosciutto, and you’re in business. 3. Let dough stand at room temperature until
slightly softened, about 15 minutes. On a
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened lightly floured surface, roll dough to ⅛-inch
1 cup (99 grams) packed finely shredded thickness. Using a 2½-inch fluted round cutter
Asiago cheese dipped in flour, cut dough, rerolling scraps
2 tablespoons (14 grams) finely chopped pecans and re-flouring cutter as necessary. Place on
1 teaspoon minced fresh sage prepared pans. Using a 1-inch fluted round
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt cutter, cut centers from half of cookies.
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground black pepper 4. Bake until light golden brown around the edges,
1¼ cups (156 grams) all-purpose flour 20 to 25 minutes, rotating pans halfway through
1 large egg white (30 grams) baking. Let cool on pans for 3 minutes. Remove
Garnish: fresh sage leaves, pecan halves from pans, and let cool completely on wire racks.
5. Spread 2 teaspoons Apricot Raspberry
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the Filling on flat side of all solid cookies. Sprinkle
paddle attachment, beat butter at medium cookies with cutouts with confectioners’ sugar,
speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Add Asiago, and top with zest, if desired. Place cookies with
pecans, sage, salt, and pepper, beating until cutouts, flat side down, on top of filling. Store
combined. With mixer on low speed, gradually in an airtight container at room temperature
add flour, beating until large clumps form, for up to 2 days.
2 to 3 minutes. Turn out dough, and gently
knead until no longer crumbly. Shape into a APRICOT RASPBERRY FILLING
9½-inch-long log. Wrap in plastic wrap, and Makes 1 cup
freeze for 1 hour.
2. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a 1 cup (128 grams) chopped dried apricots
baking sheet with parchment paper. ½ cup (120 grams) water
3. Cut log into 24 (⅜-inch-thick) slices. Place ¼ cup (60 grams) raspberry liqueur*
about 1 inch apart on prepared pan. Brush with 2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated sugar
egg white. Top with sage or pecans, if desired. 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract*
4. Bake until very lightly browned on bottom,
18 to 20 minutes. Let cool completely on pan. 1. In a small saucepan, bring all ingredients to
Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to low;
simmer for 10 minutes. Using an immersion
APRICOT LINZER COOKIES blender, pulse until smooth. Refrigerate until
Makes 18 ready to use.

Almond flour makes for a nutty, slightly chewier *We used Chambord Black Raspberry Liqueur and
shortbread, brightened by lemon zest in the dough. The Heilala Vanilla Extract. •
Chambord raspberry liqueur in the filling has a sweet
tang that plays up the tartness of the apricot. If you’re
anything like us, you’ll splash what’s left of the Loire
Valley liqueur in a glass of bubbly to sip as you bake.

1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened

½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour
½ cup (48 grams) blanched almond flour
1 teaspoon (1 gram) lemon zest
Apricot Raspberry Filling (recipe follows)
Garnish: confectioners’ sugar, lemon zest
november | december 2018 44
 STOLLEN
MASTER THIS SWEET GERMANIC BREAD, A HOLIDAY FAVORITE STEEPED IN HISTORY AND LADEN
WITH CANDIED ZEST, BRANDY-SOAKED FRUIT, AND VANILLA BEAN-SPECKLED MARZIPAN

C onsider the distance between the terms “retro” and “Old-World.” That’s the distinction between the homey
American fruitcake and the grand Germanic stollen. For over 500 years, the people of Germany, and in particular
the residents of Dresden, have preserved stollen as an intrinsic piece of their culinary identity. This year marks the
584th anniversary of the Dresden Stollen Market or Striezelmarkt, a celebration christened by a mammoth loaf of stollen
measured in tons and cut with a silver-plated ceremonial knife.

In truth, this luxurious loaf bears little resemblance to its forefather, an oat, flour, canola oil, and water affair that was
eaten for basic sustenance rather than indulgence. Thanks in large part to a papal butter decree (see page 53 for Dresdner
Stollen), stollen has transformed over the years into a baked good so rich in fruit, butter, and booze that it has earned a
hallowed place in Yuletide revelry. Our recipes continue upon the majestic tradition, doubling down on decadence but
keeping it true to the original formula. Follow our step-by-step techniques, from kneading to shaping to sifting that final final
coat of confectioners’ sugar, and recreate this historical recipe that delivers all the splendor the season requires.

BY KYLE GRACE MILLS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM DICKEY
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY LAURA CRANDALL
STYLING BY BETH K. SEELEY
PRO TIP
Stollen only gets better with time. You can
eat it immediately, but for the most complex
flavor, allow it to soak in its brandy-laced glory
for 1 to 2 weeks. After covering your stollen in
its confectioners’ sugar veil, wrap it tightly in
plastic wrap, and store at room temperature
for up to 2 weeks.
 TRADITIONAL STOLLEN
Makes 2 loaves 5. Punch down dough in center; turn out 3. In same saucepan, bring 2 cups (480 grams)
dough onto a lightly floured surface. Strain water, granulated sugar, and vanilla bean and
Our stollen recalls the sophisticated flavor of fruit, discarding any liquid. Knead fruit mixture, reserved seeds to a boil over medium heat.
times past: slightly sweet yeasted bread dough Candied Zest, and almonds into dough until Cook, stirring constantly, until sugar is dissolved.
loaded with dried fruit rehydrated in brandy. evenly dispersed. (Be patient while kneading. If Add zest; simmer, stirring occasionally, until
To finish, we shape our dough in the traditional any fruit pieces or nuts fall out, just place them translucent and tender, about 25 minutes. Let
ceremonial form and cover it in a luxurious, snowy back in dough, and keep kneading.) Cover and cool in syrup. Strain zest, reserving syrup for
blanket of butter and confectioners’ sugar. let stand for 10 minutes. another use, if desired. Let zest dry on a wire
6. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. rack set over a baking sheet for 1 hour.
1 cup (128 grams) dried cherries 7. Divide dough in half (about 815 grams each). 4. Toss zest in vanilla sugar; dice zest. Store in
¾ cup (96 grams) chopped dried apricots On a lightly floured surface, roll half of dough an airtight container for up to 1 week.
¾ cup (96 grams) dried currants into a 13x9-inch oval. Fold dough almost in half
1 cup (240 grams) apricot brandy lengthwise, leaving a 1-inch border uncovered. *We used Heilala Vanilla Pure Vanilla Bean Sugar.
1 cup (240 grams) warm whole milk Place on a prepared pan, and cover with plastic
(105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C), divided wrap. Repeat with remaining dough. Lightly
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast brush loaves with some of remaining ¼ cup
4¼ cups (510 grams) all-purpose flour, divided (57 grams) melted butter. Cover and let rise Shape Your Stollen
⅔ cup (150 grams) plus ¼ cup (57 grams) in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until
unsalted butter, melted and divided pufed, about 45 minutes.
1 large egg (50 grams) 8. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar 9. Bake until golden brown, a wooden pick
1 tablespoon (3 grams) lemon zest inserted in center comes out clean, and an
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt instant-read thermometer inserted in center
Candied Zest (recipe follows) registers 190°F (88°C), 30 to 35 minutes.
¾ cup (85 grams) slivered almonds, chopped While still hot, brush loaves with some of
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting remaining melted butter. Liberally dust with
confectioners’ sugar. Let stand for 5 minutes.
1. In a medium bowl, toss together cherries, Brush with remaining melted butter, and
apricots, and currants. Pour brandy over fruit. dust with confectioners’ sugar again. Let cool
Cover and let stand overnight or for up to completely. Dust with confectioners’ sugar 1. Roll dough into a 13x9-inch oval. Gently
3 days. (The longer it stands, the stronger the once more before serving. Wrap tightly in press any dried fruit or other mix-ins that
flavor.) plastic wrap, and store at room temperature for have fallen out back into the dough.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the up to 2 weeks.
paddle attachment, combine ½ cup (120 grams)
warm milk and yeast. Let stand until mixture is CANDIED ZEST
foamy, about 10 minutes. Add 1 cup (120 grams) Makes about 1½ cups
flour, and beat at low speed until a smooth
dough forms, about 1 minute. Cover and let rise 2 large navel oranges (650 grams)
in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until 2 large lemons (238 grams)
doubled in size, about 30 minutes. 2 cups (480 grams) water
3. Using the dough hook attachment, add ⅔ cup 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
(150 grams) melted butter, egg, granulated sugar, 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds
lemon zest, salt, remaining 3¼ cups (390 grams) scraped and reserved
flour, and remaining ½ cup (120 grams) warm ¼ cup (48 grams) vanilla sugar*
milk, beating at very low speed until combined,
about 2 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl 1. Using a serrated knife, remove zest from
as needed. Increase mixer speed to low, and beat oranges and lemons in 1-inch-long strips. 2. Fold dough in half lengthwise, leaving just
until a smooth dough forms, about 18 minutes. Remove most of pith from zest. a 1-inch border uncovered. (Think of the
4. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place 2. In a medium saucepan, bring zest and cold appearance of a tightly swaddled baby—
dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and water to cover to a boil. Drain, and repeat that’s what it should look like.)
let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) procedure. Pat zest dry, and cut into 1x¼-inch
until doubled in size, about 1 hour. strips.

november | december 2018 48

49 bake from scratch
 STOLLEN WREATHS
Makes 2 small wreaths 1. In a medium bowl, toss together cranberries, granulated sugar. Grate Vanilla Bean Marzipan,
raisins, and figs. Pour brandy and rum over fruit. and divide in half (150 grams each). Strain fruit,
Combining the visual beauty of holiday wreath Cover and let stand overnight or for up to discarding any liquid. Divide fruit mixture in half
bread with the fruit- and brandy-laced flavor 3 days. (The longer it stands, the stronger the (119 grams each).
of stollen, these sweet rings have nutty grated flavor.) 7. Preheat oven 350°F (180°C).
marzipan and a medley of dried cranberries, figs, 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the 8. On a lightly floured surface, roll half of dough
and raisins kneaded directly into the dough. paddle attachment, combine ½ cup (120 grams) into a 22x9-inch rectangle. Liberally brush with
warm milk and yeast. Let stand until mixture is some of remaining ⅓ cup (77 grams) melted
½ cup (64 grams) dried cranberries foamy, about 10 minutes. Add 1 cup (120 grams) butter. Sprinkle with half of sugar mixture, half of
½ cup (64 grams) golden raisins flour, and beat at low speed until a smooth Vanilla Bean Marzipan, and half of fruit mixture,
½ cup (64 grams) chopped dried black dough forms, about 1 minute. Cover and let rise leaving a 1-inch border. Starting with one long
mission figs in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until side, roll up dough, jelly roll style; pinch edges to
½ cup (120 grams) brandy doubled in size, about 30 minutes. seal. Place roll, seam side down, on work surface.
¼ cup (60 grams) dark rum 3. Using the dough hook attachment, add ⅔ cup Using a bench scraper, cut roll in half lengthwise;
1 cup (240 grams) warm whole milk (150 grams) melted butter, egg, ¼ cup (50 grams) turn halves cut side up. Carefully twist dough
(105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C), divided granulated sugar, zests, salt, remaining 3¼ cups pieces tightly around each other. Place a sheet
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast (390 grams) flour, and remaining ½ cup of parchment paper on work surface. Carefully
4¼ cups (510 grams) all-purpose flour, divided (120 grams) warm milk, beating at very low speed move twist onto parchment; form twist into a
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, melted until combined, about 2 minutes, stopping to circle, tucking ends under. (If any pieces of fruit
and divided scrape sides of bowl as needed. Increase mixer or Vanilla Bean Marzipan fall out, place them back
1 large egg (50 grams) speed to low, and beat until a smooth dough forms, on wreath.) Place wreath on a baking sheet. Brush
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar, divided about 18 minutes. with some of remaining melted butter. Cover
3 tablespoons (9 grams) orange zest 4. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place while repeating with remaining dough, sugar
1 tablespoon (3 grams) lemon zest dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let mixture, Vanilla Bean Marzipan, and fruit mixture.
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until 9. Bake until golden brown, a wooden pick
2 teaspoons (4 grams) ground cinnamon doubled in size, about 1 hour. inserted in center comes out clean, and an
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground ginger 5. Punch down dough in center; turn out dough instant-read thermometer inserted near center
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground nutmeg onto a lightly floured surface. Divide dough in registers 190°F (88°C), 30 to 35 minutes. While
Vanilla Bean Marzipan (recipe on page 51) half. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes. still hot, brush wreaths with remaining melted
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting 6. In a small bowl, stir together cinnamon, butter. Let cool completely on pans. Lightly dust
ginger, nutmeg, and remaining ¼ cup (50 grams) with confectioners’ sugar just before serving.

Shape Your Stollen

1. Starting with one long side, roll 2. Using a bench scraper, cut roll 3. Carefully twist dough pieces 4. Form twist into a wreath,
up dough, jelly roll style. Pinch in half lengthwise. Turn halves cut tightly around each other. tucking ends under. Gently press
edges to seal. side up. any fruit or marzipan that has
come free back into wreath.

november | december 2018 50

 MINI STOLLEN LOAVES
Makes 12 4. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place 1 large egg white (30 grams)
dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and 1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste
These mini loaves each contain a generous serving let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) fresh orange juice
of chopped chocolate and kirsch-soaked dates until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
and cherries while a decadent vanilla marzipan 5. Punch down dough in center; turn out 1. In the work bowl of a food processor, place
core lies tucked in the middle. dough onto a lightly floured surface. Strain flour and sugars; pulse until combined. Add
fruit, discarding any liquid. Knead fruit mixture, egg white, vanilla bean paste, and orange juice;
¾ cup (96 grams) dried cherries chocolate, and chestnuts into dough until process until mixture holds together. Wrap
¾ cup (96 grams) chopped dried dates evenly dispersed. (Be patient while kneading. If tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for up to
½ cup (120 grams) cherry brandy any fruit pieces or nuts fall out, just place them 1 month.
(kirschwasser) back in dough, and keep kneading.) Cover and
1 cup (240 grams) warm whole milk let stand for 10 minutes.
(105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C), divided 6. Divide Vanilla Bean Marzipan into 12 pieces
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast (about 20 grams each). Roll each piece into a
4¼ cups (510 grams) all-purpose flour, divided 3½-inch log. Set aside. Shape Your Stollen
⅔ cup (150 grams) plus ¼ cup (57 grams) 7. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
unsalted butter, melted and divided 8. Divide dough into 12 pieces (about 117 grams
1 large egg (50 grams) each). On a lightly floured surface, roll each
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar piece of dough into 5x3½-inch rectangle. Place
3 tablespoons (9 grams) orange zest 1 piece of Vanilla Bean Marzipan in center of
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt each rectangle. Fold top half of dough over
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds Vanilla Bean Marzipan, then fold bottom
scraped and reserved half over top. Gently roll loaves to seal seam.
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom Pinch ends under, and place on prepared pans,
¾ cup (128 grams) chopped bittersweet seam side down. (Final loaves should be 4½
chocolate inches long.) Lightly brush loaves with some
½ cup (57 grams) finely chopped roasted of remaining ¼ cup (57 grams) melted butter.
1. After dividing dough into 12 pieces, roll
chestnuts* Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
out each one into a 5x3½-inch rectangle.
Vanilla Bean Marzipan (recipe follows) (75°F/24°C) until pufed, about 45 minutes.
Using your finger, press a neat, 3½-inch-
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting 9. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
long dent into center of dough. Nestle log
10. Bake until golden brown, a wooden pick
of marzipan into dent.
1. In a medium bowl, toss together cherries and inserted in center comes out clean, and an
dates. Pour brandy over fruit. Cover and let instant-read thermometer inserted in center
stand overnight or for up to 3 days. (The longer registers 190°F (88°C), 25 to 30 minutes.
it stands, the stronger the flavor.) While still hot, brush loaves with some of
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the remaining melted butter. Liberally dust with
paddle attachment, combine ½ cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar. Let stand for 5 minutes.
warm milk and yeast. Let stand until mixture is Brush with remaining melted butter, and
foamy, about 10 minutes. Add 1 cup (120 grams) dust with confectioners’ sugar again. Let cool
flour, and beat at low speed until a smooth completely. Dust with confectioners’ sugar
dough forms, about 1 minute. Cover and let rise once more before serving. Wrap tightly in
in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until plastic wrap, and store at room temperature for
doubled in size, about 30 minutes. up to 2 weeks.
3. Using the dough hook attachment, add
⅔ cup (150 grams) melted butter, egg, *We used Gefen Organic Whole Roasted &
2. Tuck both sides of dough over marzipan
granulated sugar, zest, salt, vanilla bean seeds, Peeled Chestnuts.
log, covering it. Using your cupped hand,
cardamom, remaining 3¼ cups (390 grams)
gently roll mini stollen logs to seal seams.
flour, and remaining ½ cup (120 grams) warm VANILLA BEAN MARZIPAN
milk, beating at very low speed until combined, Makes about 1 cup
about 2 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of
bowl as needed. Increase mixer speed to low, 1⅓ cups (128 grams) almond flour
and beat until a smooth dough forms, about ⅔ cup (80 grams) confectioners’ sugar
18 minutes. ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
51 bake from scratch
The Best Stateside Stollen
FALL IN LOVE WITH THE TASTE OF BAKERY-FRESH
STOLLEN, NO PASSPORT REQUIRED
BIEN CUIT New York City, New York
This New York institution’s signature Christmas loaf has an
almond-rich filling made of eggs, butter, sugar, and almond
flour. After the stollen is baked, the bakers dip the loaves
in nearly 16 pounds of melted butter and seal them with
confectioners’ sugar.

DINKEL’S BAKERY Chicago, Illinois

Dinkel’s has been pushing its stollen since it first opened in
1922. Norman Dinkel Jr., grandson of the original owner,
claims the bread’s enduring legacy is due to its unorthodox but
incredibly decadent filling: buttercream swirled with almonds
and cashews.

FRESSEN ARTISAN BAKERY Portland, Oregon

Founded and run by Bavarian expat baker Edward Loesch,
Fressen specializes in Germanic breads, including pretzels,
bierbrot (beer bread), and, you guessed it, authentic stollen.
Edward claims his stollen is best enjoyed two to three weeks
after he bakes it.

november | december 2018 52

Stollen, Part I: The Magical Mix-Ins
FROM NUTTY MARZIPAN TO BRANDY-PLUMPED DRIED FRUIT, THESE INGREDIENTS RAISE YOUR STOLLEN
TO SENSATIONAL LEVELS
Boozy Dried Fruit
Raisins and currants are the traditional choice, but any dried fruit—like the figs, dates,
and apricots we showcase in our recipes—hearkens back to the original. Now comes
the brandy, the secret ingredient that keeps your stollen moist. We use dried fruit
imbued with brandy to keep it hydrated from the inside out. Keep in mind that the
longer you soak your fruit (up to 3 days), the better and stronger the flavor.

Marzipan
Traditional marzipan is a mix of fine almond flour and sugar bound together with an
egg white. For a dose of citrus and vanilla, we added orange juice and vanilla bean
paste to the mix. Our recipe comes together quickly in the food processor but can
also be mixed by hand. Simply press the mixture together until it begins to adhere.
Wrapped in plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator, this chewy treat is good for up
to 1 month. You can also freeze it for up to 3 months.

Candied Zest
Our recipe is flexible for any kind of citrus rind—from grapefruit to kumquats. We
opted for the standard orange and lemon, removing the pith and blanching the zests
twice to eliminate bitterness. Then we boiled them in simple syrup and tossed them in
a final crunchy coat of vanilla sugar. Our Candied Zest doesn’t snap, crack, or stick to
your teeth like tofee. Instead, it has a chewier texture.

Dresdner Stollen: Builder of Churches

Once upon a time, in the 15th century, a prince of Saxony petitioned the pope on
the rather weighty matter of butter. He was reaching out on behalf of the bakers’
guild of Dresden, whose members were struggling to create decadent Christmas
bread worthy of the prince. Advent was a season restricted to fasting, so use of
decadent ingredients like butter was strictly prohibited. Needless to say, the bread of
Germany, particularly Dresden’s beloved stollen, sufered. Finally, Pope Innocent VIII
gave a special dispensation to the prince and his royal household to bake with butter
during Advent. The famous papal “Butterbrief” had a catch: Members of the bakers’
guild were allowed to use butter, but they had to pay a fee, or a “buttergeld,” which in
turn helped fund the construction of numerous churches around Germany. If you’ve
ever admired gothic cathedrals built and adorned during this time frame (such as the
Freiburg Minster, pictured right), you can thank the people’s unquenchable craving
for butter-rich stollen for footing some of the bill.
Stollen, Part II: Delve into the Dough
FROM A PRE-FERMENT SPONGE TO PATIENT KNEADING, FOLLOW THESE STEPS TO RECREATE THE YEASTED
DOUGH THAT HAS CAPTIVATED SWEET TOOTHS FOR CENTURIES

The Sponge The Mixing The Rise The Kneading

The sponge is a pre-ferment Once you add the rest of your Now that your dough is a smooth, Time to get a little hands-on. In
element of the dough. Like a base dough ingredients (butter, cohesive ball, you’ll need to give order to organically incorporate
starter, it is made up of liquid and sugar, spices, remaining flour, etc.) that sponge some time to work its all of your mix-ins (see page 53),
flour. Unlike a starter, it often to your pre-ferment, the dough tasty magic, about 1 hour to puf you’ll need to adopt a slow and
contains domestic yeast to help will need a long period of mixing. up and double in size. Remember steady pace of kneading them in.
kick-start the microbe magic. We Clocking in at a whopping that this yeast-powered step is Tuck, fold, and knead the dough
mix ½ cup (120 grams) warm milk, 18 minutes of mixing, you’ll wonder what truly separates the stollen until every last nut, fruit, and
yeast, and 1 cup (125 grams) flour if your stand mixer can handle the from the fruitcakes. candied zest morsel is thoroughly
to form a doughy mixture. Then we pressure. Because the mixer is absorbed into the dough folds.
leave it for 30 minutes to double working at low speed, it’ll take on Knead as much as you like; this
in size. Voilà, a sponge! the work load just fine. dough won’t get tough from
overworking.

Stollen, Part III: The Final Brush with Greatness

SEAL IN THE RICH FLAVORS OF YOUR STOLLEN WITH A SERIOUS LAYERING OF BUTTER AND
CONFECTIONERS’ SUGAR

BRUSH, SIFT, REPEAT: Using a pastry brush,

coat the top of your stollen with melted butter.
Sift confectioners’ sugar over it until the butter
is completely covered with sugar. Brush another
coat of butter onto the stollen. This will smear
the snowy coat of sugar, but don’t worry—it’ll
get covered back up. Sift another dusting of
confectioners’ sugar over the top. Repeat this
process several times until a thick, luxurious coat
of butter and sugar ensconces the exterior. •

november | december 2018 54

 STIR-UP SUNDAY
ON THE LAST SUNDAY BEFORE THE SEASON OF ADVENT, BAKERS ACROSS THE UNITED KINGDOM
BRING OUT THEIR MIXING BOWLS AND WOODEN SPOONS TO STIR UP CHRISTMAS PUDDING. OUR
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR AND EXPERT ON ALL THINGS BRITISH BAKING, EDD KIMBER, SHARES THE
ORIGIN OF THIS BAKING-CENTRIC CELEBRATION AND WHY YOU SHOULD MAKE IT A HOLIDAY
TRADITION IN YOUR HOME, TOO.
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT, PHOTOGRAPHY, AND STYLING BY EDD KIMBER
I
n England, Stir-up Sunday is one of the first signals that Christmas Christmas pudding recipes vary, but generally, the dessert is a pudding
is around the corner. The holiday, informally called Stir-up Sunday made with bread crumbs and a generous amount of alcohol and laden
in Anglican churches, falls on the last Sunday before the start of with dried fruit. Many recipes use dark stouts for the alcohol with a
Advent. Its name is derived from the prayer read during Church of little treacle, resulting in a dense, molasses-rich dessert, while others
England services on that day: “Stir up, we beseech thee, O Lord, the go lighter and play around with variations on the fruits.
wills of thy faithful people.” It is a date steeped in tradition. Christmas
pudding is one of the most prominent holiday traditions in England, There are many traditions associated with the making of the pudding,
so over the years, the dessert has become commonly associated with but the most important is the stirring itself. The pudding mixture is
the date. stirred east to west to signify the journey the wise men took in the
Christian Nativity story. Because making and mixing pudding from
Because Christmas pudding benefits from a long ageing process, Stir- scratch can be a laborious process, everyone in the family is expected
up Sunday is the day when families prepare the pudding they will to help out. Each member takes a turn stirring, making a wish for
reheat and enjoy on Christmas Day. On Stir-up Sunday, the pudding the year ahead as they stir. Many mix a silver coin into the pudding
is steamed for a long period, between five and six hours, then stored before steaming. Whoever gets the hidden coin in their serving on
in a sealed pudding basin in a cool, dry place until Christmas Day. Christmas Day will have good luck in the year ahead. This year, let
This month-long wait allows all the ingredients to fully blend so Stir-up Sunday stand as a useful reminder to get in the kitchen to bake
the pudding’s flavour can reach its maximum potential. On a busy up some deliciousness and spend quality time stirring it up with family
Christmas Day, the pudding requires only a shorter steam to rewarm. and friends.
 PRUNE AND ARMAGNAC ⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (95 grams) Armagnac*
CHRISTMAS PUDDING ⅓ cup (50 grams) grated apple
Makes 8 servings 2 tablespoons (42 grams) honey
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
This pudding features grated frozen butter in place ⅔ cup plus 2 tablespoons (99 grams) all-purpose
of the traditional grated suet, a firm fat from beef flour
or mutton. Instead of the molasses-heavy dark ¼ cup (21 grams) Dutch process cocoa powder**
brown sugar and black treacle historically used, I 1 tablespoon (6 grams) mixed spice (see Note)
opted for light brown sugar and honey to lighten 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder
and modernize the flavour. With the additions of 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
the fruity French brandy Armagnac in the pudding, ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (127 grams) unsalted
this is the most luxe pudding you’ve encountered butter, frozen
yet. Traditionally, you would serve the pudding Chocolate Sauce (recipe follows)
flambéed with a ladle full of brandy, but I love
topping it with a velvety Chocolate Sauce to finish. 1. Lightly grease a 0.95-quart pudding basin**
with a little butter, and place a small disk of
2⅓ cups (299 grams) roughly chopped dried parchment paper into base.
prunes 2. In a large bowl, stir together prunes, bread
¾ cup (100 grams) fresh bread crumbs crumbs, figs, dates, almonds, and brown sugar.
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (72 grams) roughly Add eggs, Armagnac, apple, honey, and vanilla,
chopped dried figs stirring until combined. Let stand for 1 hour so
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (72 grams) roughly the fruit can soak up some of the liquid.
chopped dried dates 3. In a medium bowl, stir together flour, cocoa,
⅓ cup (45 grams) whole blanched almonds mixed spice, baking powder, and salt. Grate
⅓ cup (73 grams) firmly packed light brown frozen butter into bowl with liquid ingredients,
sugar and stir briefly to distribute. Add flour mixture to
2 large eggs (100 grams) pudding mixture, and stir until well combined.

PRO TIP
Alternatively, you can steam this pudding in the oven using a 6-cup Bundt pan instead of a pudding
basin. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C), and place a deep roasting pan in oven. Follow steps 2 and
3 to prepare pudding batter. Lightly butter and flour Bundt pan, tapping out any excess. Scrape pudding
batter into prepared pan, and level out. Wrap pan completely in several layers of parchment paper and
one layer of foil. (Because of the hole in the Bundt pan, you need to ensure the entire pan is covered,
not just the top like when making in a traditional pudding basin.) Place Bundt inside roasting pan in oven,
and fill roasting pan with enough boiling water to reach halfway up sides of Bundt pan. Steam pudding
for 3 hours. Remove pudding from heat, and let cool completely. Continue with step 6 as directed.

57 bake from scratch

4. Firmly press mixture into prepared pudding Note: Mixed spice, also called pudding spice, is a
basin, packing in well so there are no air British blend of spices, available on amazon.com.
pockets. Cover pudding with another disk of Pumpkin pie spice can be substituted. If you would like
parchment. Cover basin with a large sheet of to make your own mixed spice, stir together
parchment paper and a large sheet of foil, both 1 tablespoon (6 grams) allspice, 1 tablespoon
with a pleat across the middle so the pudding (6 grams) cinnamon, 1 tablespoon (6 grams) nutmeg,
has space to expand as it bakes. Secure in place 2 teaspoons (4 grams) ginger, ½ teaspoon (1 gram)
with a piece of kitchen string tied tightly just cloves, and ½ teaspoon (1 gram) coriander.
under lip of basin.
5. To steam, place a small inverted saucer into
a large stockpot, and place pudding on top. You CHOCOLATE SAUCE
don’t want the pudding touching the bottom Makes 1 cup
of the pan since you want to steam it, not cook
through direct heat. Fill pan with boiling water 3.5 ounces (100 grams) 63% dark chocolate,
so that it comes halfway up sides of pudding chopped
basin. Place pan over low heat, and simmer for ½ cup (120 grams) double cream (heavy
3 hours. (This is about half the time a regular whipping cream)
Christmas pudding steams for because butter 1 tablespoon (14 grams) firmly packed light
has a much lower melting point than suet.) brown sugar
Make sure you check the water level as the 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
pudding steams, and top up with extra boiling 2 tablespoons (30 grams) Armagnac
water as needed. Remove pudding from heat,
and let cool completely. 1. Place chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl.
6. Remove wrappings, and replace with fresh 2. In a medium saucepan, bring cream, brown
parchment and foil, making sure to secure tightly sugar, and vanilla to a simmer. Pour hot cream
with string as before. Store in a cool, dry place mixture over chocolate. Let stand for 1 to
for the month leading up to Christmas Day or 2 minutes; stir until melted and smooth. Add
whichever day you wish to enjoy. (Store for at least Armagnac, stirring to combine. Use immediately. •
12 hours if you do not wish to store for a month.)
7. To serve, repeat steaming process for about
1 hour to heat through. Remove foil and
parchment, and carefully turn out pudding onto
a plate. Pour Chocolate Sauce over pudding.

*Bourbon or spiced rum would also work.

**I used Guittard Cocoa Rouge Unsweetened

Cocoa Powder and Mason Cash Steam Bowl
(Pudding Basin), available on
amazon.com.

november | december 2018 58

 Caramelized
COMEBACK
WITH
W T A SIMPLE
S MP E ROASTING,
ROAST NG WHITE
W TE CHOCOLATE
C OCO ATE GETS A NEW AND IMPROVED
MPROVED LOOK.
OOK. THE
T E
CHOCO ATE TAKES ON A GOLDEN
CHOCOLATE GO DEN HUE AND A DEEPER, TOASTED FFLAVOR
AVOR THAT PUMPS
UP EVERYTH
EVERYTHING BLONDIES
NG FROM BLOND GANACHE.
ES TO PÂTE À CHOUX AND GANACHE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK WEINBERG / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY JESSE SZEWCZYK / STYLING BY ERIN JEANNE MCDOWELL
 Caramelized White
Chocolate Bark
page 68

61 bake from scratch

 Dark Chocolate Cake with
Whipped Caramelized White Chocolate Ganache
page 67

november | december 2018 62

 Caramelized White Chocolate
Chess Pie
page 67

63 bake from scratch

 Salty Caramelized
White Chocolate Blondies
page 68
 CARAMELIZED WHITE CHOCOLATE
Makes about 2 cups

Use high-quality white chocolate with over 30% cocoa butter content for this recipe. Every white chocolate is
diferent and the amount of time (and stirring) it takes to caramelize will vary, so use your senses and treat this recipe
as a guideline. Once the chocolate is a deep golden color and smells like toasted marshmallows, it’s done.

16 ounces (455 grams) white chocolate baking chips

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

1. Preheat oven to 250°F 2. Bake until chocolate is smooth and deep golden and smells like toasted 3. Pour chocolate onto a
(130°C). In a completely dry marshmallows, 30 to 60 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes. (At times, parchment-lined sheet tray,
9-inch round cake pan, combine the chocolate will look very dry and chalky, but keep stirring until smooth.) and let set for at least 7 hours or
chocolate and salt. overnight.

PRO TIP
For a lighter flavor, roast just
until color starts to change,
about 30 minutes. This is best
for pairing with subtle flavors,
such as fresh berries. For a
stronger flavor, roast until
chocolate resembles peanut
butter and has a strong nutty
fragrance, about 1 hour. This will
produce something slightly less
sweet with an assertive caramel
4. Break into pieces, and store flavor.
in an airtight container for up
to 4 months.

65 bake from scratch

CARAMELIZED WHITE spoon until completely homogenous. Cook, MAKE AHEAD
CHOCOLATE CHOUX PUFFS stirring constantly, until a thin film coats You can make the pufs (unfilled) up to
Makes about 24 bottom of pan, about 3 minutes. 3 days in advance and leave them at room
4. Transfer mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer
temperature. When ready to assemble,
This recipe uses the same technique as choux au fitted with the paddle attachment, and beat at bake them at 375°F (190°C) for about
craquelin, the adorable cream pufs topped with medium speed until slightly cooled, about 5 minutes to crisp them back up.
crunchy sugar. The crackled topping accentuates 2 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well
the thick layer of silky Whipped Caramelized after each addition. Transfer batter to a piping
White Chocolate Ganache perfectly. Pastry can bag fitted with a straight tip. With a ½-inch
be complicated, but these are relatively easy and distance between piping tip and parchment,
all of the steps are fairly forgiving. (If you’ve made pipe batter onto drawn circles on prepared
pâte à choux and sugar cookie dough before, this pans, smoothing tops with a wet finger.
will be a breeze.) 5. Between 2 sheets of parchment paper, roll
dough to ¼-inch thickness. Using a 1½-inch
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened round cutter, cut 24 rounds from dough, and
and divided place on top of piped batter circles.
½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed light brown 6. Bake until pufed and golden, 30 to
sugar 35 minutes. Let cool completely. Cut pufs
2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour, divided in half horizontally. Using a pastry bag fitted
1 cup (240 grams) water with a star tip, fill each puf with Whipped
1 teaspoon (4 grams) granulated sugar Caramelized White Chocolate Ganache. Serve
¼ teaspoon kosher salt immediately, or store in an airtight container
4 large eggs (200 grams) at room temperature for up to 2 days. (Do not
½ recipe Whipped Caramelized White refrigerate after assembling. The whipped filling
Chocolate Ganache (recipe on page 67) will set and become too firm.)

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the

paddle attachment, beat ½ cup (113.5 grams)
butter and brown sugar at medium speed
until creamy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to
scrape sides of bowl. With mixer on low speed,
gradually add 1 cup (125 grams) flour, beating
until smooth, about 2 minutes. Shape dough
into a disk, and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate
for 30 minutes.
2. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line
2 sheet trays with parchment paper. Using a
1½-inch round cutter, trace 24 circles onto
parchment; turn parchment over.
3. In a small saucepan, bring 1 cup (240 grams)
water, granulated sugar, salt, and remaining
½ cup (113.5 grams) butter to a boil over
medium heat. Add remaining 1¼ cups
(156 grams) flour, and stir with a wooden

november | december 2018 66

CARAMELIZED WHITE lay 1-inch strips of parchment paper over pie. 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
CHOCOLATE CHESS PIE Dust with confectioners’ sugar, and carefully 1⅓ cups (320 grams) boiling water
Makes 1 (9-inch) pie remove parchment. Serve immediately, or Whipped Caramelized White Chocolate
refrigerate until ready to serve. Let stand at Ganache (recipe follows)
Chess pie is delicious, but it’s not always the room temperature for 1 hour before serving. Dark Chocolate Drip (recipe follows)
prettiest—so dust the top of this baby in Garnish: flaked sea salt
confectioners’ sugar, and call it a day. Chess pie PIE DOUGH
will form a crunchy top while it bakes. This is a Makes 1 (9-inch) crust 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter and
sign of a good chess pie and to be expected, but flour 3 (9-inch) round cake pans.
it can also make the surface crack and sink. If you 1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
want your pie to have a flatter top, bake it in a 1 teaspoon (4 grams) granulated sugar paddle attachment, beat butter and brown
water bath, and let cool in the warm oven before ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt sugar at medium speed until flufy, 3 to
removing it. ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, cubed 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
4 to 5 tablespoons (60 to 75 grams) cold water Add eggs, and beat until light and flufy, about
Pie Dough (recipe follows) 3 minutes. Add sour cream and vanilla, beating
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, cubed 1. In the work bowl of a food processor, place just until smooth.
4 ounces (115 grams) Caramelized White flour, sugar, and salt; pulse until combined. Add 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, black
Chocolate (recipe on page 65), coarsely butter, and pulse until mixture is crumbly. With cocoa, baking soda, and salt. With mixer on low
chopped processor running, add cold water, 1 tablespoon speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar (15 grams) at a time, just until a dry dough mixture, beating just until combined. Slowly
4 large eggs (200 grams) forms. Turn out dough, and shape into a disk. add 1⅓ cups (320 grams) boiling water, beating
2 tablespoons (18 grams) yellow cornmeal Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour. until smooth. Divide batter among prepared
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract pans.
¼ teaspoon kosher salt DARK CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center
1 tablespoon (7 grams) confectioners’ sugar WHIPPED CARAMELIZED WHITE comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Let cool in
CHOCOLATE GANACHE pans for 15 minutes. Remove from pans, and let
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Makes 1 (9-inch) cake cool completely on wire racks.
2. On a lightly floured surface, roll Pie Dough 5. Using a serrated knife, trim top of cake
into a 12-inch circle. Transfer to a 9-inch pie With essentially every type of chocolate, this layers. Lightly spread Whipped Caramelized
pan, pressing into bottom and up sides. Trim recipe is for all you chocolate fanatics. It’s White Chocolate Ganache between layers and
excess dough to ½ inch beyond edge of pan. coated in a luxe frosting made with the real on top and sides of cake. Pour Dark Chocolate
Fold edges under, and crimp as desired. Prick star, Caramelized White Chocolate, and the top Drip over cake, letting it drip down sides. Let
bottom of dough all over with a fork. Freeze for is showered in shimmering sea salt flakes that stand until chocolate is set, about 20 minutes.
15 minutes. crunch like sprinkles. The salt is a nice contrast Garnish with flaked salt, if desired. Serve
3. Top dough with a piece of parchment paper, to the chocolate’s sweetness, making this cake immediately, or refrigerate until ready to serve.
letting ends extend over edges of pan. Add pie dangerously easy to eat. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour
weights. before serving.
4. Bake for 15 minutes. Let cool completely 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened
on a wire rack. Reduce oven temperature to 3 cups (660 grams) firmly packed dark
325°F (170°C). brown sugar PRO TIP
5. In the top of a double boiler, combine butter 4 large eggs (200 grams) It’s best to frost your cake as soon as you
and Caramelized White Chocolate. Cook 1 cup (227 grams) sour cream make the frosting because the frosting
over simmering water, stirring frequently, until 1 tablespoon (13 grams) vanilla extract won’t go on as smoothly if you wait. (Make
melted, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; 2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour sure your layers are cool.) Because it’s a
add granulated sugar, eggs, cornmeal, vanilla, 1 cup (101 grams) black cocoa powder whipped ganache, the frosting will deflate a
and salt, whisking until smooth. Pour filling into 1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking soda little (but that’s OK).
prepared crust.
6. Bake until center is set and no longer
jiggly, about 40 minutes. Let WHIPPED CARAMELIZED WHITE CHOCOLATE
cool for 2 hours. To make a GANACHE
vertical-stripe pattern, Makes about 4 cups

16 ounces (455 grams) Caramelized White

Chocolate (recipe on page 65), chopped
1½ cups (360 grams) heavy whipping cream
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, cubed
1 tablespoon (13 grams) vanilla extract
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
1. Place Caramelized White Chocolate in a
large heatproof bowl. Set aside.
2. In a small saucepan, bring cream and all
remaining ingredients to a simmer over medium
heat. Pour hot cream mixture over Caramelized
White Chocolate; stir until melted. Freeze for
1 hour.
3. Transfer cooled mixture to the bowl of a
stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.
Beat at high speed until light and flufy,
30 seconds to 1 minute. Use immediately.

Note: If your chocolate breaks while whipping it,

just melt 3 tablespoons ganache in the microwave,
and slowly add it back in while whipping. This
can happen if it has chilled for too long, but it’s
easily fixed.

DARK CHOCOLATE DRIP

Makes about 1½ cups

6 ounces (175 grams) 60% cacao semisweet

chocolate, chopped 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line an
¾ cup (180 grams) heavy whipping cream 8-inch square baking pan with parchment
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter paper, letting excess extend over sides of pan.
Butter and flour pan.
1. Place chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl. 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
Set aside. paddle attachment, beat melted butter and
2. In a small saucepan, bring cream and butter brown sugar at medium speed until combined. 6 ounces (175 grams) Caramelized White
to a simmer over medium heat. Pour hot cream Add egg and vanilla, beating until creamy and Chocolate (recipe on page 65), coarsely
mixture over chocolate; stir until melted. Let smooth, about 2 minutes. chopped
cool for 20 minutes before using. 3. In a medium bowl, stir together flour, ⅔ cup (113 grams) white chocolate chips
salt, and cinnamon. With mixer on low 2 tablespoons (2 grams) freeze-dried
SALTY CARAMELIZED WHITE speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter raspberries, lightly crushed
CHOCOLATE BLONDIES mixture, beating just until combined. Fold in ¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) flaked sea salt
Makes 16 Caramelized White Chocolate and toasted
walnuts. Spoon batter into prepared pan. 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
Can blondies go blonder? We think yes. 4. Bake until lightly browned and just barely 2. Spread pistachios on a baking sheet, and
Starring white chocolate in its hottest new hue, set, 20 to 22 minutes, sprinkling with flaked toast until fragrant, about 6 minutes. Let cool,
these blondies are even better than the golden salt halfway through baking. Let cool for at least then coarsely chop. Set aside.
bars you know and love. To make slicing them 1 hour. Using excess parchment as handles, 3. Line a 13x9½-inch sheet pan with parchment
easier, feel free to pop them in the refrigerator remove from pan, and cut into squares. Store in paper.
for about 20 minutes before cutting. an airtight container at room temperature for 4. In the top of a double boiler, place
up to 4 days. Caramelized White Chocolate. Cook over
6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted butter, simmering water, stirring frequently, until
melted and cooled CARAMELIZED WHITE melted and a candy thermometer registers
1 cup (200 grams) firmly packed light CHOCOLATE BARK 110°F (43°C), about 8 minutes. Remove
brown sugar Makes 8 to 10 servings from heat; slowly add white chocolate chips,
1 large egg (50 grams) stirring until candy thermometer registers 84°F
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract A small amount of white chocolate is added to (29°C). (If there are small pieces of unmelted
1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour give the bark a nice snappiness and prevent it from chocolate, place back over heat for a few
¼ teaspoon kosher salt blooming. Pistachios, tart raspberries, and large seconds.)
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon flakes of sea salt balance the sweetness and add 5. Pour melted chocolate onto prepared pan,
4 ounces (115 grams) Caramelized White crunch—but feel free to load it up with whatever and spread in a thin layer. Sprinkle with toasted
Chocolate (recipe on page 65), coarsely toppings you have in your pantry. pistachios, raspberries, and flaked salt. Let set
chopped for at least 2 hours or overnight. Break into
¾ cup (85 grams) coarsely chopped toasted 2 tablespoons (18 grams) unsalted raw small pieces, and store in an airtight container
walnuts shelled pistachios for up to 1 month. •
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) flaked sea salt
november | december 2018 68
 AMERICA’S FIRST FAMILY OF CHOCOLATE
Guitard
THIS FAMILY-OWNED CHOCOLATE COMPANY IN CALIFORNIA HAS BEEN QUIETLY
MAKING SOME OF YOUR FAVORITE CHOCOLATE—FROM BEAN TO BAR—FOR 150 YEARS. THEIR
OBSESSION WITH FLAVOR HAS MADE THEM LEADERS IN A GLOBAL EFFORT TO ELEVATE
CHOCOLATE—AND THE LIVES OF COCOA FARMERS.

BY ALICE MEDRICH
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT ARMENDARIZ AND COURTESY OF GUITTARD CHOCOLATE COMPANY

I
can smell chocolate long before I pull into the little visitors’ lot in Guittard is the oldest continuously family-owned chocolate producer
front of the factory at 10 Guittard Road. Built in 1955 and painted in the United States. You could call it a big boutique chocolate maker—
two colors—vaguely chocolate and caramel—it resembles a the largest of the small chocolate makers, but 40 times smaller than
California elementary school of the same era. The redwood-paneled the big guys. Gary Guittard is the fourth generation of Guittards to
lobby was last remodeled in 1989. But who needs new or fancy when head this company, and one of three Guittards leading it today. His
you’ve got a living cacao tree in the room? The Guittard specimen even nephew Clark is head of international sales and his daughter, Amy, is
has fruit—eight colorful cacao pods hanging from its lower limbs and the director of marketing.
trunk—and delicate white blossoms called cherelles dot the trunk as
well. I saw the same tree over 20 years ago—a spindly sapling in the
same lobby.

Even if you love chocolate, you may not know that one company in
California has been making bean-to-bar chocolate for 150 years—
chocolate that now rivals elite European brands and competes
with the hippest small-batch artisan chocolate makers.
Whether or not you know the name, you’ve probably
eaten more Guittard chocolate than Hershey’s.
 Guittard makes chocolate—not candies. Don’t expect truffles or a new freeway, Horace A. took the opportunity to build a new factory
bonbons or chocolate bars with nuts, sea salt, or spices. There are no 15 miles south of the city in Burlingame, California. That Burlingame
nougats or novelties. Do expect a curated selection of fine chocolate factory remains company headquarters today and produces Guittard’s
for home bakers—chocolate baking chips, cocoa powder, baking bars, Collection Etienne: single-origin and special blend chocolates. (This
and organic baking wafers plus special blends for nibbling, and all Fair year, much of the remaining production was relocated to a new,
Trade Certified and non-GMO. Guittard makes over 300 different cutting-edge factory in Fairfield, California, with the capacity to
chocolate formulations—“the widest variety of flavors and styles in double current production.)
the industry”—for pastry chefs, bakers, and chocolatiers as well as
candy, ice cream, and novelty makers. The Burlingame factory is like a hot chocolate sauna. It feels delicious
and smells better. The clinking, shaking, and vibrating hum of antique
The story begins when Etienne Guittard, scion of French stone masons, machinery and the incessant clatter of baking chips tumbling off a
who failed to strike gold in California. Etienne landed in San Francisco conveyer belt is just part of the experience. Vintage machines cozy
in the mid-19th century, carrying chocolate from his uncle’s factory in up to a few state-of-the-art pieces. Gary Guittard (Etienne’s great-
Paris—chocolate that he planned to trade for mining supplies. Mining grandson) likes the way the older equipment makes chocolate, gently,
never panned out—but Etienne recognized a market for chocolate and the production staff has decades of experience working with it.
among wealthy San Franciscans. This would not be the first time a
Guittard turned setback into opportunity. The chocolate making process at Guittard is mechanized—but far
from automatic. There is no main control panel to set and then walk
Etienne sailed home to perfect his skills and acquire equipment and away from. Throughout, and for each product, the process is varied,
returned to San Francisco to open the first Guittard Factory in 1868. myriad decisions are made, tests taken, and equipment adjusted.
Every batch of chocolate is tested 72 times for pathogens before it’s
Horace C. Guittard, Etienne’s son, rebuilt the factory when it was finished. This intricate dance of art and science is designed to develop
destroyed by the 1906 San Francisco earthquake. His son Horace A. the full potential of each bean variety or blend while maintaining
Guittard steered the company through World War II, staying Stateside the consistent quality, viscosity, color, and food safety that Guittard
to supply chocolate and cocoa to the military. Facing displacement by demands and customers expect.

71 bake from scratch

This vintage advertisement features an illustration of
the company's first Guittard Factory in San Francisco.

A company that thrives over five generations does not do so by One of the biggest challenges came almost 10 years later with the new
resting on its achievements. Each generation has met the challenges “bean to bar” movement, launched by the upstart Scharffen Berger
and realities of their time by continuing to evolve and reinvent— Chocolate Maker. The food revolution that had elevated coffee,
balancing cautious decision-making with the innovation required to cheese, wine, and beer had finally caught up to chocolate; consumers
survive. Meanwhile, the company’s values—humility, kindness, and were ready to appreciate more-diverse and complex chocolate, with
a dedication to mentoring new employees—have ensured long-term fruity, nutty, or floral notes and balanced by acidity. When Gary
employees, sometimes two generations of the same family. saw the customers that Scharffen Berger was attracting— including
pastry chefs and chocolatiers who might otherwise choose imported
Gary hadn’t planned to work in the family business, much less become chocolate—he saw danger for Guittard but also great opportunity.
president or the industry leader he is today. Gary came of age in the He spent a few years learning to make the new style of chocolate his
’60s in San Francisco. In college, he studied psychology and Eastern way. This meant sourcing and using more fine-flavor cocoa—cocoa
religions and minored in film studies. After working for a boutique ad beans traditionally used in small quantities to enhance other beans—
agency for several years, Gary finally approached his dad. Horace A. and processing them without destroying their delicate flavors. Gary’s
sent him to work for a food brokerage company for experience before odyssey resulted in the Collection Etienne. San Francisco chocolatier
welcoming him into the family business as head of retail products. Michael Recchiuti remembers the day Gary dropped by with a foil-
Looking back now, 72-year-old Gary muses, “I didn’t realize at the time wrapped sample of the new chocolate. Michael told Gary that the
that there would be just as much creativity with chocolate as there chocolate rivaled Europe’s best. Today, Michael uses tons of it in
would be in filmmaking.” his exquisite Recchiuti confections, as does London’s cutting-edge
chocolatier Paul A. Young—and hundreds more.
Gary’s brother, Jay, was president of the company when their dad
died of ALS; Jay’s death within six months was the bigger shock. In Guittard strives to make the best chocolate on earth—Gary’s giant
1989, Gary stepped into a role he never imagined having. Everyone at stature in the industry comes equally from his dedication to “elevating
Guittard helped him. “I decided to make chocolate better,” Gary says. chocolate.” This means protecting industry standards and preserving
“I felt that we needed to do that to survive and be competitive in the heirloom varietals. In 2007, Gary started a grassroots campaign
arena we needed to be in.” called “Don’t Mess with Our Chocolate” that successfully opposed
november | december 2018 72
The 2018 Limited Edition Eureka Works bar (packaged above) was created
in celebration of Guittard’s 150th anniversary this year. For every bar sold,
a portion of proceeds will go to the Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund.
a petition—by industrial chocolate companies to the FDA—that cocoa to make the best chocolate means advocating for farmers to earn
would have allowed chocolate makers to replace some cocoa butter in more from cultivating better cocoa. Gary started breeding programs
chocolate with cheaper fats and still label it as chocolate. in Costa Rica in the 1990s—part of his mission to make Guittard
chocolate better. He now works with an alphabet soup of organizations
Guittard takes a leading role in global efforts to ensure sustainable and the governments of Ghana, Ivory Coast, and Indonesia to preserve
sources of fine cocoa through the well-being of cocoa farmers and their and promote the cultivation of fine-flavor cocoa instead of high-yield,
communities, efforts that include literacy and child welfare programs. disease-resistant clones that produce mediocre chocolate.
As a company ambassador, Amy wants to be sure that these programs
really help rather than pay lip service to the idea of helping. “We do Labs set up in cocoa-growing regions support breeding programs and
things because we care about them, not because they are a selling also produce chocolate samples to allow thousands of farmers to taste
point.” At 36, she is the first and only female family member and the the difference between chocolate made from poorly cultivated cocoa
most recent to join what she calls “our 150-year-old start-up.” Amy and cocoa that is cultivated properly. “We’ve gotten the big chocolate
travels to farm communities in Africa and Latin America and connects companies to agree that we all have a responsibility not to end up
at the community level, especially with women on farms in co-ops with a tasteless cocoa bean,” says John Kehoe, Guittard’s director of
when she tells them she is the first woman in her family’s company. sustainability. “If you don’t breed for flavor, you will breed it out.”

Sustainability is an integral part of Gary’s obsession with flavor, and the Even the best chocolate factory can’t make good chocolate from
potential is far-reaching. In Gary’s view, ensuring a supply of the best flavorless cocoa beans. The beans—actually kidney bean-size seeds
november | december 2018 74
 from the podlike fruit—from countries such as Ghana, Côte d’Ivorie,
Indonesia, Peru, Ecuador, and Venezuela—have already met Guittard’s
high standards for quality by the time they arrive at the factory dock, but
they will be evaluated again before they go into production.

Guittard customer service breaks the mold. “We grow through our
customer’s success” is the Guittard mantra. Chuck Siegel, founder of
Charles Chocolates, has been a Guittard customer since his company
was a start-up in 2004. Recently, Guittard’s director of microbiology,
Ken Givich, spent what Chuck calls “a ridiculous amount of time”
helping Chuck design a new lab for Charles Chocolates’ new factory.
Innovative new companies always have new kinds of problems. That’s
when senior scientist Thalia Hohenthal steps in. Thalia’s been with
Guittard for 33 years. She’ll go into the kitchen and make the product
with the customer—whatever it takes to solve a problem or tweak a
process. Meanwhile, pastry chef Donald Wressell heads the Guittard
Chocolate Studio in Los Angeles, California, hosting classes for and by
the industry’s elite pastry chefs, bakers, and chocolatiers. The services,
research and development talent, and “technical muscle” in a company
of Guittard’s size set it apart and create enormous customer loyalty.

Guittard’s company culture is equally impressive. “It’s a family business,

and the Guittard family takes care of their employees as family members,”
says Mark Spini, Guittard’s vice president of sales. “They look at you as a
contributor—a part of the company because people make the company.” For an exclusive, in-depth look at Guittard’s chocolate-making
process, visit bakefromscratch.com/making-chocolate-at-guittard.
Mark’s father logged 53 years with Guittard; he mentored Thalia and she
.
went on to mentor Mark when he joined the company three decades ago.

Humility is also part of the ethos at Guittard. Everyone is enormously

proud of the chocolate, but the company avoids the limelight. For
them, Guittard chocolate is the exquisitely crafted ingredient—always
improving—that allows the chefs and confectioners (and home bakers)
to be the stars. When the pastry chef at an iconic San Francisco restaurant
set a signature dessert in front of Amy, saying, “This is you,” Amy replied,
“No! It’s you!”

The fifth generation of Guittards as well as the extended family of long-

term employees all feel responsible for sustaining the company legacy.
Clark Guittard, 46, oversees international sales and multiple special
projects. He envisions Guittard chocolate of the future with more health
benefits, chocolate for a warmer planet, biodegradable packaging, and
taking a leadership role in making socially responsible decisions.

“We are stewards of a 150-year-old business,” says Clark. “Our job is to keep
it going. The company and the cause are bigger than us.” Like everyone at
Guittard, he wants to make better chocolate—and a better world.

75 bake from scratch

ALL ABOUT
CACAO
THE LOWDOWN ON CACAO
PERCENTAGE AND HOW IT
APPLIES TO BAKING
Cacao percentage tells you how much
of your chocolate bar is cocoa beans
(inclusive of any added cocoa butter).
Percentage does not indicate quality
or flavor—those depend on the beans
and the chocolate-making—but it does
give you a clue about the balance of
chocolate flavor relative to sweetness.
Generally, the higher the percentage,
the less sweet the chocolate. Fine dark
chocolates contain little more than cocoa
beans and sugar. So, a 70% chocolate
is about 30% sugar, a 60% chocolate is
40% sugar, and a 100% chocolate is pure
unsweetened chocolate.

Shop by taste when you are buying

chocolate to use as mix-ins for cookies
or cake. Cacao percentage is not critical
in any application where the chocolate
will not be melted and mixed into other
ingredients. Choose any chocolate that
you think will taste good in your creation.

Shop by percentage when making a

recipe that requires blending melted
chocolate with other ingredients. Cacao
percentage can afect the chemistry of
the recipe and can make the diference
between success and disappointment. A
torte or mousse that was developed for
a 60% chocolate but made with a 70%
chocolate may turn out bitter, dry, or
grainy. A ganache or sauce may break. If
recipes call for chocolate both by name
(like bittersweet or semisweet) and by
percentage, shop by percentage instead
of name. This is because semisweet and
bittersweet chocolates are the same type
of chocolate—one brand’s semisweet
might even be a higher percentage than
another brand’s bittersweet. If you can’t
find the exact percentage that a recipe
calls for, get as close as you can—a
couple percentage points won’t hurt
most recipes.
 CHOCOLATE FORMS AND FUNCTIONS
GUITTARD LABELS INCLUDE CACAO PERCENTAGE, BEAN ORIGINS, AND TASTING NOTES TO FIRE
YOUR IMAGINATION, WHET YOUR APPETITE, AND SPARK YOUR CREATIVITY.
Baking chips are made with less cocoa butter than regular baking chocolate so that they hold their shape in cookies—they are not ideal for melting and
blending into batters and shouldn’t be used in recipes unless specifically called for.

Wafers are a convenient “professional” form of chocolate, because there’s no

need to chop them before melting. Unlike baking chips, wafers melt and blend
beautifully into batters—and they’re superb for eating. Use wafers instead of
baking chips in chocolate chip cookies for extra decadent cookies.

Bars are versatile because they can be chopped into smaller pieces to melt or
added into batter or dough. Each 6-ounce package of Guittard chocolate has
three individually wrapped bars that are easy to break or cut into squares. Bake
with them, or tuck a box into your desk or travel bag.

Unsweetened cocoa powder is a versatile baking ingredient—a super

concentrated form of chocolate with very little fat and zero sugar. Guittard
Cocoa Rouge imparts full fudgy chocolate flavor in cakes and cookies without
making them heavy or dense. Use it in any recipe that calls for Dutch process
cocoa powder. Grand Cacao Drinking Chocolate is a combination of ground
chocolate and Dutch process cocoa powder—it makes an extra rich (think
pudding!), creamy cup of hot cocoa and can be used for baking, too.

For further information on Guittard’s products, visit guittard.com.

EVERYTHING CHOCOLATE 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line several Note: Using a vegetable peeler, scrape blade
THUMBPRINT COOKIES baking sheets with parchment paper. lengthwise across room temperature chocolate to
Makes 56 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the create shavings.
paddle attachment, beat butter and brown
Dear chocolate lovers, you’re welcome. To sugar at medium speed until creamy, about GANACHE
celebrate Guittard (and their 150th anniversary!), 2 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Makes ¾ cup
we used a few of our favorite products to create Beat in egg yolks and vanilla.
a sophisticated thumbprint cookie. With cocoa 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa, ⅔ cup (113 grams) chopped bittersweet
powder in the dough, a pool of melty ganache in salt, and baking powder. With mixer on low speed, chocolate*
the center, and chocolate shavings and a light gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture, ½ cup (120 grams) heavy whipping cream
chocolate drizzle on top, this will be the most beating until combined. Shape dough into 1-inch
indulgent cookie you bake this season. (13-gram) balls, and place 2 inches apart on 1. Place chopped chocolate in a large heatproof
prepared pans. Using a ¼ teaspoon, gently make bowl. Set aside.
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened an indentation in center of each ball. 2. In a small saucepan, bring cream just to a
¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed dark brown 4. Bake about 9 to 11 minutes. Remove from boil over medium heat. Pour hot cream over
sugar oven, and press down centers again. Let cool on chocolate. Let stand for 1 minute; whisk until
2 large egg yolks (37 grams) pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans, and smooth. Refrigerate, stirring occasionally, until
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract let cool completely on wire racks. Spoon slightly thickened, about 30 minutes.
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon Ganache into center of each cookie.
⅓ cup (40 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder* Drizzle with melted chocolate, and top with sea *We used Guittard Eureka Works 150th
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt salt and chocolate shavings, if desired. Anniversary Limited Edition 62% Cacao Bar, but
¼ teaspoon (1.25 gram) baking powder Guittard Semisweet Chocolate Baking Bar 64%
Ganache (recipe follows) *We used Guittard Cocoa Rouge Unsweetened Cacao will work, too. •
Garnish: melted bittersweet chocolate, flaked Cocoa Powder.
sea salt, bittersweet chocolate shavings
(see Note)
77 bake from scratch
THE
Red Gems OF

WINTER
BREAK OPEN THE HUMBLE POMEGRANATE, AND
YOU’LL FFIND
ND A NO SO HUMBLE INTERIOR:
NOT-SO-HUMBLE N ER OR A
BEJEWELED HONEYCOMB
ONEYCOMB OFO JUICY,
JU CY, SSHIMMERING
MMER NG
SEEDS WE
SEEDS. RE MINING
WE’RE M N NG THIS
T S WINTER
W NTER TREASURE
FOR ITS RUBY-HUED
TS TANGY RUBY HUED ARILS,
AR S ADDING
ADD NG A
BR GHT BURST OF FLAVOR TO COOK
BRIGHT COOKIEE BARS,
BARS
MUFFINS,
MUFF NS, CAKE, AND MORE.
MORE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM DICKEY / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY NANCY HUGHES / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
 PRO TIP
An aril is the seed pod
inside a pomegranate.
You can make these
recipes using prepackaged
pomegranate arils, or
remove the arils from
the fruit yourself. See
page 85 for our tips on
how to easily remove the
arils from pomegranates
without the mess.

Meyer Lemon Pomegranate Muffins

page 88
 Pomegranate Molasses
Gingerbread Cake
page 85

81 bake from scratch

Chocolate Chunk, Toffee, and
Pomegranate Cookie Bars
page 86
 Pomegranate Cranberry Curd Tart

83 bake from scratch

 constantly, until thickened, 5 to
10 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.
Pour cranberry mixture into prepared Salty
Peanut Crust, smoothing top.
4. Bake until set, about 10 minutes. Let
cool completely on a wire rack. Sprinkle
POMEGRANATE CRANBERRY with pomegranate arils. Store at room
CURD TART temperature for up to 2 days.
Makes 1 (9-inch) tart
SALTY PEANUT CRUST
Velvety smooth cranberry curd finds the Makes 1 (9-inch) crust
perfect complement in a crunchy Salty
Peanut Crust. A halo of pomegranate arils 1¼ cups (156 grams) all-purpose flour
adds another layer of tart, juicy flavor and a 1 cup (142 grams) unsalted roasted
touch of glowing wintry charm. peanuts
¼ cup (27 grams) peanut butter powder
2 cups (224 grams) frozen cranberries ¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, cubed
2½ tablespoons (20 grams) orange zest and softened
⅓ cup (80 grams) fresh orange juice 1 large egg yolk (19 grams)
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, cubed 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
and softened 2. In the work bowl of a food processor,
2 large eggs (100 grams) place flour, peanuts, peanut butter
2 large egg yolks (37 grams) powder, and salt; pulse until finely ground.
Salty Peanut Crust (recipe follows) Add butter, and process until mixture is
¾ cup (125 grams) pomegranate arils crumbly. Add egg yolk, and process until
a crumbly dough forms. Shape dough into
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). a disk, and wrap tightly in plastic wrap.
2. In a medium saucepan, bring cranberries, Refrigerate for 10 minutes.
sugar, orange zest and juice, and salt to a 3. Transfer dough to a 9-inch round
simmer over medium heat. Simmer until removable-bottom tart pan, pressing into
cranberries have softened and released bottom and up sides. Freeze for
their juices, about 10 minutes. Strain 15 minutes.
mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a 4. Top dough with a piece of parchment
medium bowl, pressing on solids. Discard paper, letting ends extend over edges of
solids. Add butter to cranberry mixture, pan. Add pie weights.
whisking until combined. Let cool for 5. Bake until edges are set, about
3 minutes. Add eggs and egg yolks, 20 minutes. Carefully remove paper
whisking until well combined. and weights. Bake until crust is golden
3. Return cranberry mixture to saucepan; brown, about 10 minutes more. Let cool
cook over medium heat, whisking completely on a wire rack.
 POMEGRANATE MOLASSES
GINGERBREAD CAKE
Makes 1 (8-inch) cake

AN EASY WAY TO REMOVE ARILS

AR LS FROM Melding the warm spices of gingerbread with
the tart power of Pomegranate Molasses,
POMEGRANATE:
YOUR POMEGRANA E: our one-layer cake is a sophisticated spin
on a holiday favorite. A final luxurious coat
1. Fill a large bowl with cold water.
2. Roll pomegranate to loosen the seeds. Strike
of vanilla frosting rounds out this simple
stunner.
the hull with the tip of a knife, and gently crack
open with your hands. ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter,
3. Use a sharp knife to slice into quarters. softened
Submerge in cold water. ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
4. Pull apart quarters, releasing seeds with your 2 large eggs (100 grams)
hands. The pith will float, and the seeds will sink. ½ cup (170 grams) Pomegranate
Remove and discard pith, and drain the arils. Molasses (recipe follows)
5. Place arils on paper towels to absorb excess 2 teaspoons (2 grams) lemon zest
moisture, being careful not to squeeze. 2 teaspoons (10 grams) grated fresh
ginger
1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground ginger
¾ teaspoon (3.75 grams) baking soda
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cloves
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ cup (120 grams) whole milk
⅓ cup (50 grams) diced crystallized
ginger
Vanilla Cream Cheese Frosting (recipe
follows)
Garnish: pomegranate arils

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray

an 8-inch springform pan with cooking
spray; line bottom of pan with parchment
paper.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment, beat butter and
sugar at medium speed until creamy,
3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides
of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating
well after each addition. Add Pomegranate
Molasses, zest, and grated ginger, and beat
until combined.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
ground ginger, baking soda, salt, cloves,
and pepper. With mixer on low speed,
gradually add flour mixture to butter
mixture alternately with milk, beginning
and ending with flour mixture, beating just
until combined after each addition. Fold
in crystallized ginger. Pour batter into
prepared pan, smoothing top.
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in
center comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes.
Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove
sides of pan, and turn cake over. Remove ¾ cup (122 grams) toffee bits 1 tablespoon (3 grams) Meyer lemon
bottom of pan, and gently peel of Garnish: flaked sea salt, for sprinkling zest
parchment. Return cake to bottom of pan, Pomegranate Glaze (recipe follows) 1 tablespoon (15 grams) fresh Meyer
right side up. Let cool completely. Spread lemon juice
Vanilla Cream Cheese Frosting onto 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter Poppy Seed Streusel (recipe follows)
cooled cake. Sprinkle with pomegranate and flour a 9-inch square baking dish; line Pomegranate Molasses (recipe follows)
arils, if desired. dish with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter
VANILLA CREAM CHEESE FROSTING cornstarch, baking soda, and salt. Stir in and flour 2 (12-cup) muffin pans.
Makes about 2 cups pomegranate arils. 2. In a large bowl, sift together flour, sugar,
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together baking soda, and salt. Stir in pomegranate
½ cup (112 grams) cream cheese, melted butter and sugars. Add egg, egg arils.
softened yolk, and vanilla, whisking to combine. 3. In another large bowl, whisk together
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, Fold butter mixture into flour mixture sour cream, melted butter, eggs, poppy
softened until well combined. Add chocolate chunks seeds, and lemon zest and juice. Fold flour
½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract and tofee bits, stirring to combine. Place mixture into sour cream mixture until well
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds dough in prepared pan, smoothing top. combined. Divide batter among prepared
scraped and reserved 4. Bake until golden brown and set, about muffin cups. Sprinkle each muffin with
¼ teaspoon kosher salt 35 minutes. Sprinkle with flaked salt, if about 1 tablespoon Poppy Seed Streusel.
2½ cups (300 grams) confectioners’ sugar desired. Let cool completely in pan. Drizzle 4. Bake until golden brown, 20 to 25
with Pomegranate Glaze, and cut into bars. minutes. Let cool in pans for 5 minutes.
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted Remove from pans, and let cool completely
with the paddle attachment, beat cream POMEGRANATE GLAZE on wire racks. Drizzle with Pomegranate
cheese, butter, vanilla extract, vanilla bean Makes about 1 cup Molasses.
seeds, and salt at medium speed until
smooth. With mixer on low speed, add 1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar POPPY SEED STREUSEL
confectioners’ sugar, ½ cup (60 grams) at 2 tablespoons (42 grams) Pomegranate Makes about 1½ cups
a time, beating until well combined. Use Molasses (recipe follows)
immediately, or cover and refrigerate for 1 tablespoon (15 grams) heavy whipping ⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar
up to 3 days. cream ⅔ cup (83 grams) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon (3 grams) poppy seeds
CHOCOLATE CHUNK, TOFFEE, 1. In a small bowl, whisk together ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
AND POMEGRANATE COOKIE all ingredients until combined. Use ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, cubed
BARS immediately. and softened
Makes 16
MEYER LEMON POMEGRANATE 1. In a small bowl, whisk together sugar,
Chock-full of tofee, chocolate, and MUFFINS flour, poppy seeds, and salt. Using a pastry
pomegranate, these bars are a lesson in Makes 24 blender, cut in butter until mixture is
balancing rich sweetness with acidic tang. crumbly. Use immediately.
And that blushing Pomegranate Glaze? It’s as When life gives you Meyer lemons, something
tasty as it is beautiful. more epic than lemonade is called for. These POMEGRANATE MOLASSES
muffins zip with lemon, poppy seeds, and a Makes ¾ cup
2¼cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour double dose of pomegranate with arils in the
1½teaspoons (4.5 grams) cornstarch dough and a generous drizzle of homemade 3 cups (720 grams) pomegranate juice
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking soda Pomegranate Molasses on top. ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt 1½ tablespoons (22.5 grams) fresh lemon
1 cup (166 grams) pomegranate arils 3 cups (375 grams) all-purpose flour juice
¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, 2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
melted ¾ teaspoon (3.75 grams) baking soda ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed light ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
brown sugar 1½ cups (249 grams) pomegranate arils 1. In a medium saucepan, bring all
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar 1 cup (240 grams) sour cream, room ingredients to a boil over medium-high heat.
1 large egg (50 grams) temperature Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer
1 large egg yolk (19 grams) 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, until thickened, syrupy, and reduced by
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract melted about two-thirds, 25 to 30 minutes. Let
¾ cup (128 grams) semisweet chocolate 4 large eggs (200 grams) cool completely, then refrigerate overnight.
chunks 1 tablespoon (9 grams) poppy seeds Refrigerate in an airtight container until
ready to use. •

november | december 2018 86

Five New Ways with
GINGERBREAD
WE REVAMP THE CLASSIC HOLIDAY COOKIE, TAKING IT FROM FLAT TO FIERCE. WHETHER
CANDIED, GROUND, OR GRATED FRESH, GINGER TAKES THE LEAD IN THESE RECIPES,
EACH ONE A TOUR DE FORCE OF WELL-SPICED WINTER CHEER.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHANIE WELBOURNE STEELE

ELIZABETH STRINGER
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY
One-Layer Gingerbread Cake
page 93
 Gingerbread Layer Cake with Rum Frosting
page 93

89 bake from scratch

 Gingerbread Chai Cookies
page 94

cover recipe
 Double Gingerbread Scones
page 93

91 bake from scratch

 Gingerbread Morning Buns
page 94

november | december 2018 92

 GINGERBREAD LAYER CAKE WITH 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the Spread Meringue Frosting on top of cake, piling
RUM FROSTING paddle attachment, beat butter at medium it high and creating mounds of “snow” on top of
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake speed until creamy. With mixer on low cake. Place Gingerbread Ski Chalet on one side.
speed, gradually add 2 cups (240 grams) Dust cake with confectioners’ sugar, if desired.
This simple cake has a very tender and moist crumb confectioners’ sugar, beating until combined. Store at room temperature for up to 2 days.
courtesy of a cofee-spiked cake batter. The batter Add rum, milk, and vanilla bean paste, beating
will be loose due to the addition of cofee, but it’ll bake until combined. Gradually add remaining 8 cups *We used the peels of Trader Joe’s Sweetened
up into neat, flufy layers, so don’t be concerned. The (960 grams) confectioners’ sugar, beating until Dried Orange Slices, available at Trader Joe’s or
warm, boozy coat of Rum Frosting complements the combined. Increase mixer speed to high, and on amazon.com.
hit of gingerbread spices found within. beat for 1 minute.
Note: For our Gingerbread Ski Chalet recipe, visit
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened ONE-LAYER GINGERBREAD CAKE bakefromscratch.com/gingerbread-ski-chalet.com.
2¼ cups (495 grams) firmly packed light Makes 1 (9-inch) cake
brown sugar MERINGUE FROSTING
3 large eggs (150 grams) A generous portion of minced fresh ginger is Makes about 8 cups
¾ cup (243 grams) unsulphured molasses folded directly into the cake batter of this stunner.
3¾ cups (469 grams) all-purpose flour Swoopy Meringue Frosting gives it the whimsical 2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon (6 grams) ground ginger appearance of a snowcapped mountain. ½ cup (120 grams) water
1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking powder 6 large egg whites (180 grams)
1½ teaspoons (3 grams) ground cinnamon 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt ½ cup (161 grams) unsulphured molasses
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda ½ cup (170 grams) light corn syrup 1. In a medium saucepan, bring sugar and
1½ cups (360 grams) hot coffee 1 cup (223 grams) freshly squeezed orange ½ cup (120 grams) water to a boil over high
Rum Frosting (recipe follows) juice with pulp heat. Reduce heat to medium-high; cook until
Garnish: red currants 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, melted a candy thermometer registers 248°F (120°C).
½ cup (70 grams) minced fresh ginger 2. Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line 2 large eggs (100 grams) fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg
3 (9-inch) round cake pans with parchment 2½ cups (313 grams) all-purpose flour whites and cream of tartar at high speed until
paper; butter and flour edges of pans. 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking soda stif peaks form. With mixer running, pour hot
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the 1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon sugar syrup into egg whites in a slow, steady
paddle attachment, beat butter and brown sugar at ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt stream. Beat until bowl cools to the touch and
medium speed until flufy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cloves frosting reaches a spreadable consistency,
to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, 1 cup (113 grams) chopped pecans about 10 minutes. Use immediately.
beating well after each addition. Stir in molasses. ¼ cup (35 grams) diced candied orange zest*
3. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, ginger, Meringue Frosting (recipe follows) DOUBLE GINGERBREAD SCONES
baking powder, cinnamon, salt, and baking Gingerbread Ski Chalet (see Note) Makes 8
soda. With mixer on low speed, gradually add Garnish: confectioners’ sugar
flour mixture to butter mixture alternately with Our scones earn their double gingerbread title from
cofee, beginning and ending with flour mixture, 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line the twofold dose of ground and candied ginger in the
beating just until combined after each addition. the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan with dough. We also added old-fashioned oats to this treat
Divide batter among prepared pans. parchment paper. Wrap bottom and sides of to make your winter morning breakfast a little heartier.
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center pan with a double layer of foil.
comes out clean, 30 to 33 minutes. Let cool in 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour
pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans, and paddle attachment, beat granulated sugar, ¾ cup (60 grams) old-fashioned oats
let cool completely on wire racks. molasses, corn syrup, orange juice, melted ¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light brown
5. Spread Rum Frosting between layers and butter, ginger, and eggs at medium speed until sugar
on top and sides of cake. Garnish with red combined. 1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder
currants, if desired. Store at room temperature 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, 1½ teaspoons (3 grams) ground ginger
for up to 2 days, or refrigerate for up to 5 days. baking soda, cinnamon, salt, and cloves. With ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon
mixer on low speed, gradually add flour mixture ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
RUM FROSTING to sugar mixture, beating until combined. Fold ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
Makes 7 cups in pecans and candied orange zest. Pour batter ½ cup (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, cubed
into prepared pan. ½ cup (80 grams) diced candied ginger
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center ¼ cup (60 grams) plus 2 tablespoons
10 cups (1,200 grams) confectioners’ sugar, comes out with a few moist crumbs, 55 minutes (30 grams) heavy whipping cream, divided
divided to 1 hour. (Begin checking at 55 minutes.) Let ¼ cup (85 grams) unsulphured molasses
6 tablespoons (90 grams) spiced rum cool completely in pan. Remove foil and cake 1 large egg (50 grams)
6 tablespoons (90 grams) whole milk from pan. Turbinado sugar, for sprinkling
2 teaspoons (12 grams) vanilla bean paste 5. Place cake on a serving plate or cake stand. Scone Glaze (recipe follows)
93 bake from scratch
1. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a mixture, beating until well combined. Using a large bowl with cooking spray. Place dough in
baking sheet with parchment. ¼-cup spring-loaded scoop, scoop dough, and bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let rise
2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, oats, shape into 2-inch balls. Roll balls in sparkling sugar, in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until
brown sugar, baking powder, ground ginger, and place 2½ inches apart on prepared pans. doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves. Using a pastry 4. Bake until tops are cracked, 15 to 16 minutes. 4. Brush 12 ramekins, jumbo muin cups, or
blender, cut in cold butter until mixture is Let cool completely on wire racks. soulé molds* with melted butter, and sprinkle
crumbly. Add candied ginger, tossing to combine. with sugar. Place dishes on a small sheet pan.
3. In a small bowl, combine ¼ cup (60 grams) CHAI SPICE (The filling tends to overflow a little.)
cream, molasses, and egg. Add cream mixture Makes about ½ cup 5. Divide dough in half. On a lightly floured
to flour mixture, stirring until combined. surface, roll half of dough into a 16x12-inch
4. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, ⅓ cup (32 grams) ground cardamom rectangle. Spread half of Gingerbread Filling
and gently knead up to 10 times. Pat dough into a 2½ tablespoons (15 grams) ground cinnamon onto dough. Starting with one long side, roll
7-inch circle, about 1 inch thick. Cut dough into 4 teaspoons (8 grams) ground ginger dough into a log. Using a serrated knife, cut
8 wedges, and place on prepared pan. Brush top of 2 teaspoons (4 grams) ground cloves log into 6 (2½-inch-thick) slices. Repeat with
scones with remaining 2 tablespoons (30 grams) 2 teaspoons (4 grams) ground black pepper remaining dough and remaining Gingerbread
cream, and sprinkle with turbinado sugar. Filling. Place rolls in prepared pans. Cover and
5. Bake until dough no longer looks wet 1. In a small bowl, stir together all ingredients. let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C)
around the edges, 13 to 14 minutes. Let cool until doubled in size, 20 to 30 minutes.
completely. Drizzle with Scone Glaze. GINGERBREAD MORNING BUNS 6. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
Makes 12 7. Bake until golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes.
SCONE GLAZE Let cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Remove
Makes 1⁄3 cup We were obsessed with The Vanilla Bean Blog from molds or pans using a small ofset spatula.
creator Sarah Kiefer’s brilliant idea to bake Drizzle with Simple Glaze.
1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar her cinnamon buns in copper soufflé molds.
1 tablespoon (15 grams) whole milk The copper’s superior conductive quality helps *We used Mauviel M’Passion Mini Copper Soufflé
caramelize the sugary filling and produces perfect Molds.
1. In a small bowl, stir together confectioners’ scrolls of pastry.
sugar and milk. GINGERBREAD FILLING
4⅔ cups (586 grams) all-purpose flour Makes 1½ cups
GINGERBREAD CHAI COOKIES 4½ teaspoons (14 grams) active dry yeast
Makes 9 4 teaspoons (8 grams) ground ginger 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened
2 teaspoons (4 grams) ground cinnamon 1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed light
Packing a hit of chai and gingerbread spice, these 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt brown sugar
rustic, aromatic wonders are rolled in a crystal coat ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground mace or 2½ teaspoons (5 grams) ground ginger
of sparkling sugar for a touch of glitter and crunch. 2 teaspoons (4 grams) ground nutmeg 2½ teaspoons (5 grams) ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground allspice ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened 1½ cups (360 grams) whole milk ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground mace
¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar 6 tablespoons (126 grams) unsulphured
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract molasses 1. In a medium bowl, stir together all
1 large egg (50 grams) ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, melted, ingredients.
¼ cup (85 grams) unsulphured molasses plus more for brushing
2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar SIMPLE GLAZE
1½ teaspoons (3 grams) Chai Spice (recipe Gingerbread Filling (recipe follows) Makes 1½ cups
follows) Simple Glaze (recipe follows)
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking soda 2 cups (240 grams) confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground ginger 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the ½ cup (120 grams) whole milk
¼ teaspoon kosher salt paddle attachment, combine flour, yeast, ginger,
1 cup (200 grams) sparkling sugar cinnamon, salt, mace (or nutmeg), and allspice. 1. In a small bowl, stir together
2. In a small microwave-safe bowl, stir together confectioners’ sugar and milk. •
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line milk, molasses, and melted butter. Microwave on
4 baking sheets with parchment paper. high until an instant-read thermometer registers
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C). With mixer
paddle attachment, beat butter, granulated on low speed, add warm milk mixture to flour
sugar, and vanilla at medium speed until flufy, mixture, beating until combined. Increase mixer
2 to 3 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of speed to medium, and beat for 2 minutes.
bowl. Beat in egg and molasses. 3. On a lightly floured surface with lightly
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, Chai floured hands, knead dough until
Spice, baking soda, ginger, and salt. With mixer on smooth and elastic, about
low speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter 6 minutes. Spray a
 ROLL
CALL
NO HOLIDAY MEAL IS COMPLETE WITHOUT A BATCH OF GOLDEN
DINNER ROLLS BAKED FROM SCRATCH AND SERVED WARM FROM
THE OVEN—FROM BEER ROLLS AND CLASSIC BUTTERY CRESCENTS TO
CHEESY KNOTS AND PULL-APART ROLLS THAT COME TOGETHER IN A
FLASH. PASS THEM AROUND THE TABLE, SLATHER THEM IN BUTTER,
AND SHOW YOUR LOVED ONES HOW YOU ROLL.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY LAURA CRANDALL / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
Pull-Apart Rolls
page 101
 Sour Cream Knots
page 101

97 bake from scratch

 Crescent Rolls
page 102

november | december 2018 98

Clover Beer Rolls
CLOVER BEER ROLLS Let stand until mixture is foamy, about sprinkle with remaining 2 ounces (55 grams)
Makes 24 5 minutes. Parmesan.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with 8. Bake until golden brown and an instant-
We infused this dough with a light amber ale the dough hook attachment, combine read thermometer inserted in center
because it ofers subtle notes of toasty malt flour, 8 ounces (225 grams) Parmesan, registers 190°F (88°C), 8 to 10 minutes,
and sweet citrus that balance out the savory Roasted Garlic, sugar, parsley, and salt. rotating pans halfway through baking.
Parmesan and roasted garlic. A hoppy beer Add yeast mixture and remaining ¾ cup Brush with melted butter again, and
(like an IPA) would make the bread too bitter. plus 2 tablespoons (210 grams) warm sprinkle with sea salt and parsley, if desired.
Place three dough balls into a muffin cup to beer, and beat at low speed until a smooth, Serve warm or at room temperature.
yield a charming clover shape. elastic dough forms, 8 to 9 minutes.
3. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. *We used Bell’s Amber Ale, but any amber or
1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons (450 grams) Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. brown ale will do. You can also use a pale ale,
warm amber ale* (105°F/41°C to Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free but it does have more hops than amber ale, so
110°F/43°C), divided place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, it will afect your rolls’ flavor slightly.
1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons 30 to 40 minutes.
(14 grams) active dry yeast 4. Spray 2 (12-cup) muffin pans with ROASTED GARLIC
1½ tablespoons (31.5 grams) honey cooking spray. Makes 1 head
5⅔ cups (680 grams) bread flour 5. Punch down dough, and turn out onto a
10 ounces (280 grams) coarsely grated lightly floured surface. Divide dough into 1 large (2½-inch) head garlic (about
Parmesan cheese, divided 24 (60-gram) portions. Working with 73 grams)
Roasted Garlic (recipe follows) 1 portion at a time (keep remaining dough 1 teaspoon (5 grams) olive oil
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated covered to prevent it from drying out), ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
sugar divide each portion into 3 (20-gram)
2 tablespoons (4 grams) chopped fresh pieces. Roll each piece into a ball. Place 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
parsley 3 dough balls in each prepared muffin 2. Cut ¼ inch of top end of garlic, keeping
1 tablespoon (9 grams) kosher salt cup. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft- cloves intact. Place garlic, cut side up, on
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in foil. Drizzle with oil, and sprinkle with salt;
melted size, about 40 minutes. (Alternatively, wrap garlic in foil.
Garnish: flaked sea salt, chopped fresh cover tightly and refrigerate overnight. 3. Bake until soft, 1 hour to 1 hour and
parsley When ready to bake, let stand at room 10 minutes. Let cool completely. Squeeze
temperature for 30 minutes.) pulp into a small bowl, and mash with a fork.
1. In a small bowl, stir together 1 cup 6. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).
(240 grams) warm beer, yeast, and honey. 7. Brush rolls with melted butter, and

All of these rolls can be stored in an airtight

container at room temperature for 3 to 4 days.

november | december 2018 100

 rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) 1. Peel shallots, and cut lengthwise into
PRO TIP
For these rolls, we greased our baking until doubled in size, about 1 hour. quarters. Slice into ⅛-inch pieces.
2. Spray 2 (9-inch) square baking pans with 2. In a medium skillet, heat oil over medium
pans with cooking spray because it
doesn’t brown the edges of the bread cooking spray. Line pans with parchment heat. Add shallots and butter, and sprinkle
like butter (with its higher fat content). paper, letting excess extend over sides of with sugar, salt, and pepper. Cook until
Feel free to grease your baking pans pans; spray pans again. shallots begin to brown evenly; reduce heat
3. With lightly floured hands, turn out to low, and cook, stirring frequently, until
with butter, if desired. It won’t afect
the rolls’ flavor. dough onto a lightly floured surface, and shallots are very soft, 10 to 15 minutes. Let
knead 3 to 4 times. (If there is too much cool to room temperature.
flour on the work surface, you won’t be
PULL-APART ROLLS able to shape the rolls properly.) Divide SOUR CREAM KNOTS
Makes 24 dough into 24 (71-gram) pieces. Gently Makes 33
shape each piece into a ball, and place
Peppery, freshly grated Comté cheese and 12 balls in each prepared pan in 3 rows of 4, Your traditional sour cream roll deserves some
Caramelized Shallots team up for a flavor leaving no space between each ball. Cover va-va-voom this holiday season. We added
blowout in these hearty rolls. This method and let rise in a warm, draft-free place heaps of melty extra-sharp Cheddar and
is a cinch. Throw these pull-apart rolls on a (75°F/24°C) until pufed, 30 to 45 minutes. shaped the dough into eye-catching knots.
platter, and watch everyone tear of their own (Alternatively, cover tightly and refrigerate (Don’t let the new look fool you. Our shaping
piece of pillowy perfection. overnight. When ready to bake, let stand at technique is easy!) With tangy sour cream
room temperature for 30 minutes.) and fresh cracked pepper, these no-knead rolls
1 cup (240 grams) warm whole milk 4. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). embody everything comfort food should be.
(105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C) 5. Brush rolls with remaining ¼ cup (57 grams)
1 cup (227 grams) warm water melted butter. ½ cup (113 grams) warm water
(105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C) 6. Bake until an instant-read thermometer (105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C)
1 tablespoon (9 grams) active dry yeast inserted in centers registers 190°F (88°C), 2 tablespoons (18 grams) active dry yeast
2 large eggs (100 grams), room about 27 minutes, covering with foil and 2 cups (475 grams) sour cream
temperature rotating pans halfway through baking ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar to prevent excess browning. Brush with ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, melted butter again, and sprinkle with sea 1 tablespoon (9 grams) kosher salt
melted and divided salt, if desired. Serve warm or at room 2 large eggs (100 grams), room
1 tablespoon (9 grams) kosher salt temperature. temperature
6¼ cups (750 grams) bread flour 6¼ cups (750 grams) bread flour
7 ounces (200 grams) coarsely grated CARAMELIZED SHALLOTS 10 ounces (280 grams) coarsely grated
Comté cheese Makes ½ cup extra-sharp Cheddar cheese*
Caramelized Shallots (recipe follows) 1 tablespoon (6 grams) ground black
Garnish: flaked sea salt 5 large shallots (215 grams) pepper
1 teaspoon (5 grams) olive oil ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, melted
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk 1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter Garnish: flaked sea salt
together warm milk, 1 cup (227 grams) ½ teaspoon (2 grams) granulated sugar
warm water, and yeast by hand. Let stand ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
until mixture is foamy, about 10 minutes. ⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper the paddle attachment, combine ½ cup
Whisk in eggs, sugar, ¼ cup (57 grams) (113 grams) warm water and yeast. Let stand
melted butter, and salt. Add flour, cheese, until mixture is foamy, about 5 minutes.
and Caramelized Shallots. Using the paddle
attachment, beat at low speed until well
combined, about 1 minute. Cover and let
2. In a medium saucepan, heat sour cream, CRESCENT ROLLS 3. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray.
butter, sugar, and salt over medium-low Makes 24 Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top.
heat, stirring constantly, until butter is Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free
melted, 3 to 4 minutes. Let mixture cool Is there any roll that sets the scene for place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size,
to 110°F (43°C), about 10 minutes. Add a convivial holiday dinner better than a 35 to 45 minutes.
eggs, whisking to combine. Add sour breadbasket piled high with buttery Crescent 4. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment
cream mixture to yeast mixture, whisking Rolls? If you’re anything like us, you and the paper.
until combined. crescent go way back. Dressed up with sea 5. Punch down dough. On a lightly floured
3. Add flour, Cheddar, and pepper to yeast salt, this roll’s timeless shape and versatility surface, divide dough in half (about 490 grams
mixture, and beat at low speed until well make it a family favorite as well as a busy each). Working with 1 half at a time (keep
combined, about 1 minute. Cover and let baker’s go-to recipe. (The dough can be remaining dough covered to prevent it from
rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) made ahead for a worry-free addition to the drying out), roll dough into a 14-inch circle.
until doubled in size, about 1 hour. dinner table.) Using a pastry wheel, cut dough into 12 equal
4. Line 4 baking sheets with parchment triangles. Starting from widest end of triangle,
paper. 4¼ cups (510 grams) bread flour roll up dough, pinching pointed end to seal.
5. Divide dough into 33 (57-gram) pieces. 1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons (14 grams) Place rolls, pointed side down, on prepared
With lightly floured hands, working with instant yeast pans. Repeat with remaining dough. Cover
1 piece at a time (keep remaining dough 1 tablespoon (9 grams) kosher salt and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
covered to prevent it from drying out), roll 1 cup (240 grams) whole milk (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, 35 to
each piece into a 12-inch-long rope. Tie a ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter 45 minutes.
loose knot in center of rope, leaving about 2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated 6. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
2 inches of dough at each end. Wrap one end sugar 7. Brush rolls with melted butter.
up and over loop and the other end down and 2 tablespoons (42 grams) honey 8. Bake until golden brown, 10 to 11
under. Pinch two ends together at center. 1 large egg (50 grams), room temperature minutes. Brush with melted butter again,
Place on prepared pans. Cover and let rise 1 large egg yolk (19 grams), room and sprinkle with sea salt, if desired. Serve
in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) temperature warm or at room temperature.
until doubled in size, 30 to 40 minutes. ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, melted
(Alternatively, cover tightly and refrigerate Garnish: flaked sea salt
overnight. When ready to bake, let stand at MAKE AHEAD
room temperature for 30 minutes.) 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with You can prepare this dough the day
6. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). the dough hook attachment, combine before. After punching down dough,
7. Brush rolls with melted butter. flour, yeast, and salt. return it to bowl, cover tightly, and
8. Bake until golden brown and an instant- 2. In a small saucepan, heat milk, butter, refrigerate overnight. •
read thermometer inserted in center sugar, and honey over medium-low heat
registers 190°F (88°C), 10 to 11 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer registers
rotating pans halfway through baking. Brush 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C). Add warm
with melted butter again, and sprinkle with milk mixture to flour mixture, and beat at
sea salt, if desired. Serve warm or at room low speed just until combined, about
temperature. 2 minutes. Add egg and egg yolk, and beat
until a smooth, elastic dough forms, about
*We used Tillamook Extra Sharp Cheddar 6 minutes.
Cheese.

november | december 2018 102

origin of a classic

St. Lucia Buns

SWEDEN’S SIGNATURE SAFFRON BUNS BRING LIGHT, HOPE, AND WARMTH IN THE
MIDST OF THE FRIGID NORDIC WINTER

BY SOPHIA JONES
PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM DICKEY / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD
STYLING BY LAURA CRANDALL / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
E  very December 13, across the snowy towns of Scandinavia,
families rise early in the dark to begin preparing for a
centuries-old winter solstice celebration, a festival of lights.
The eldest daughter of each household wakes first. Donning a white
gown with a red sash and a candle-lit wreath crown, she carries a
She’s recognized as one of the earliest martyrs and most notable female
saints to gain popularity in early Christianity. The two celebrations,
pagan and Christian, combined during the ninth century when
Christianity and Lucia’s story made their way to northern Europe.
The Nordic people took to the symbolic nature of her name (Lucia,
tray of brilliant golden St. Lucia buns from room to room, singing derived from the Latin lux for light) as a light-bringer. December 13 was
carols and serving the sweet saffron-scented buns to family and also the date for St. Lucia’s martyrdom, so St. Lucia’s feast day merged
friends in honor of St. Lucia. Soon they will take to the streets for a naturally with the pre-existing winter solstice traditions. In today’s
processional, where a girl—nominated by her town as “Lucia”— tradition, the oldest daughter and the town-nominated Lucia dress in
carries a basket of St. Lucia buns, handing them out to the merry St. Lucia’s signature white gown with a red sash to represent her blood.
masses. She is accompanied by girls in white dresses and boys with star- These days, electric crowns are used instead of actual candles.
coned hats. They twirl and sing along the streets. This is St. Lucia Day.
Baked fresh for fika (a twice-daily Swedish coffee break), sweet yeast
The holiday marries both pagan and Christian traditions, combining buns are standard throughout the year in Sweden and across northern
together two Lucys, one a saint and one a witch. Five hundred years Europe. Yet at the start of Advent and the holiday season, the bread
before Christianity spread to northern Europe, December 13 was a takes on a new shape and significance. By December, bakeries and
pagan celebration of the winter solstice as the shortest day of the year Christmas markets overflow with the vibrant spiraling St. Lucia
according to the old Julian calendar. Nordic cultures lit bonfires to buns, garnished with two raisins at each end and sometimes coated in
scare off evil spirits and the pervading darkness. The evil spirit Lussi Swedish pearl sugar. The Swedes were the first to bake St. Lucia buns,
(the first Lucy) would roam the land with her trolls and cats on the but they quickly spread to other parts of northern Europe. Wherever
night of the winter solstice, punishing anyone who had not finished you are, though, saffron remains the star of St. Lucia buns.
their work for the winter. If you hadn’t gotten your work done, you
needed to keep a bag of St. Lucia buns (called lussekatter in Swedish,
which means “Lucy’s cats”) with you. The saffron in the buns was said
to chase away malignant forces.

So who was the second, sainted Lucy? Lucia was a young Sicilian
martyred by the Romans for her faith around A.D. 304. Lucia would
take food to persecuted Christians by night, wearing a crown of candles
to illuminate her path while keeping her hands free to carry more.
For centuries, Sweden was a prominent trade center on the shapes. The soft, supple dough allows for a variety of them—from
northern land route of the global spice trade known as the Silk a braided wreath to the wilder prästens hår (“priest’s hair”). The classic
Road that connected Asia, the Middle East, North Africa, and S shape, with each end of the dough rope curling up in an opposite
Europe. As a result, saffron, which is native to Southwest Asia, direction, is the most common and easy to execute. The origin of
became a staple in Swedish baking. Swedes have been infusing the S shape and its connection with St. Lucia is fairly unknown,
their bread with saffron for centuries. However, because the spice but there are several theories. The most prevalent is that the S is
was costly (it’s still the world’s most expensive spice by weight), supposed to resemble curled-up cats, hence the name lussekatter.
it was reserved for use on special occasions, like St. Lucia Day. In his new cookbook, The Nordic Baking Book (Phaidon Press, 2018),
When St. Lucia celebrations first began among the upper class in Magnus Nilsson asserts that the real lussekatt shape has four curls,
the 18th century, using saffron in cooking or baking was a way of and the common S shape is actually called jugalt, which means
showing wealth. Its distinctive sunny hue was like a badge of gold “Christmas boar.”
reserved for the table. Over time, saffron buns became an integral
part of, and even named after, St. Lucia Day. They are the most No matter the shape, St. Lucia buns are vibrant enough to bring
popular use of saffron in Sweden today. warmth to even the coldest of Scandinavian winters. In the spirit
of this season, do as the Swedes and take to the kitchen to bake out
You can’t talk about St. Lucia buns without mentioning the the dark. Rest assured, St. Lucia buns will bring the light.

St. Lucia Buns

Makes 19 fitted with the dough hook attachment, place yeast mixture. With
mixer on low speed, gradually add half of flour mixture, beating until
These Swedish safron buns are made with sour cream and vodka. The incorporated, 2 to 3 minutes. Add butter, 1 tablespoon (14 grams)
traditional version requires the safron to infuse in vodka overnight so it at a time, letting each piece incorporate before adding the next,
can develop an intense color, but our method is much faster. about 5 minutes total, stopping to scrape sides of bowl as needed.
Gradually add remaining flour mixture, beating until incorporated.
⅓ cup (67 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar, Continue beating until dough is smooth and elastic, about
divided 16 minutes.
½ teaspoon saffron, lightly crushed 4. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Shape dough into a smooth
1 tablespoon (15 grams) vodka round, and place in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in
⅔ cup (160 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (15 grams) whole milk, a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, about
divided 1½ hours.
1 tablespoon (9 grams) active dry yeast 5. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Punch down dough,
⅓ cup (80 grams) sour cream, room temperature and turn out onto a lightly floured surface. Divide dough into
2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature and divided 19 (50-gram) pieces. (Keep dough covered while shaping so it does
4 cups (480 grams) all-purpose flour not dry out.) Roll each portion into a 12- to 13-inch rope, letting
1 tablespoon (9 grams) kosher salt ends taper. Roll each end into a tight spiral in opposite directions,
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened meeting in the middle to create an S shape. Place at least 3 inches
Garnish: Swedish pearl sugar* apart on prepared pans. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free
place (75°F/24°C) for 45 minutes.
1. Using a mortar and pestle, grind together 1 tablespoon (12 grams) 6. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).
granulated sugar and safron. Place in a small bowl, and add vodka. 7. In a small bowl, whisk together remaining 1 egg (50 grams) and
Let stand for at least 20 minutes. remaining 1 tablespoon (15 grams) milk. Brush top and sides of each
2. In a small saucepan, heat ⅔ cup (160 grams) milk and remaining bun with egg wash. Top with pearl sugar, if desired.
⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar over low heat, stirring 8. Bake until golden brown, 7 to 10 minutes, rotating pans halfway
occasionally, until mixture registers 110°F (43°C) on an instant-read through baking. Let cool on a wire rack. Buns will keep for 3 to
thermometer. Remove from heat. Whisk in yeast; let stand until 4 days in an airtight container.
mixture is foamy, about 10 minutes. Whisk in sour cream and 1 egg
(50 grams); whisk in safron mixture. *We used Lars Own Swedish Pearl Sugar. •
3. In a large bowl, combine flour and salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer

november | december 2018 106

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 back page babka

eggnog BABK A knots

WE GAVE THE BABKA SHAPE A MINI TWIST—LITERALLY—TRANSFORMING
ONE GIANT LOAF INTO 12 ’NOG-PACKED KNOTS
EGGNOG BABKA KNOTS 1. In a small bowl, stir together ¼ cup place (75°F/24°C) for 45 minutes.
Makes 12 (57 grams) warm water and yeast. Let stand 8. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
until mixture is foamy, about 10 minutes. 9. In a small bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoon
Our favorite holiday quaf imbues these babka 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with (14 grams) cold water and remaining 1 egg
knots with warm notes of nutmeg and velvety vanilla the dough hook attachment, combine flour, (50 grams). Brush knots with egg wash.
custard. For an extra dose of holiday decadence, we granulated sugar, and salt. Add yeast mixture, 10. Bake until an instant-read thermometer
made a rich Brandy Crème Anglaise as the perfect warm eggnog, melted butter, 1 egg (50 grams), inserted in center registers 190°F (88°C),
dunking sauce for our elegant babka twists. vanilla bean paste, and vanilla extract. With mixer 16 to 18 minutes. (If you want your knots light
on low speed, beat until dough comes together, in color like the ones pictured, cover with foil
¼ cup (57 grams) warm water (105°F/41°C 2 to 3 minutes. Continue beating until dough is halfway through baking.) Let cool on pans for
to 110°F/43°C) smooth and elastic, about 8 minutes. 10 minutes. Serve warm, or let cool completely
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast 3. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Shape on a wire rack. Serve with Brandy Crème
4¼ cups (510 grams) all-purpose flour dough into a smooth round, and place in bowl, Anglaise.
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar turning to grease top. Cover surface of dough
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) kosher salt with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm, draft- *We used Heilala Vanilla Extract and Vanilla Bean
¾ cup (191 grams) warm eggnog free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, Paste.
(105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C) 1 to 1½ hours.
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, melted 4. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. BRANDY CRÈME ANGLAISE
2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature 5. On a lightly floured surface, divide dough Makes 2¾ cups
and divided into 12 (83-gram) pieces. Roll each piece into a
1 tablespoon (18 grams) vanilla bean paste* 9x4½-inch rectangle. 1 cup (240 grams) heavy whipping cream
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract* 6. In a small bowl, combine brown sugar and 1 cup (240 grams) whole milk
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (248 grams) firmly nutmeg. Spread 1 teaspoon (5 grams) butter ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar, divided
packed light brown sugar onto each rectangle. Spoon 1½ tablespoons 1 tablespoon (18 grams) vanilla bean paste
¼ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg brown sugar mixture onto each rectangle. ⅛ teaspoon flaked sea salt
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, softened 7. Starting with one long side, roll up dough, 5 large egg yolks (93 grams)
1 tablespoon (14 grams) cold water jelly roll style, and place seam side down on 2 tablespoons (30 grams) brandy
Brandy Crème Anglaise (recipe follows) surface. Using a bench scraper, cut each roll in
half lengthwise. Shaping one at a time, cross 2 1. In a medium saucepan, heat cream, milk, ¼ cup
pieces in center, cut sides up, then twist pieces (50 grams) sugar, vanilla bean paste, and salt over
around each other tightly, pinching each end medium-low heat, stirring frequently, just until
to seal. Form dough into a spiral with cut sides steaming. (Do not boil.)
up, tucking and pinching end underneath roll to 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks
seal. Place at least 3 inches apart on prepared and remaining ¼ cup (50 grams) sugar. Slowly
pans. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free pour about half of warm cream mixture into egg
mixture, whisking constantly. Add egg mixture
to remaining warm cream mixture, whisking to
combine. Cook, whisking constantly, until mixture
starts to thicken and coats the back of a spoon
and an instant-read thermometer registers
180°F (82°C). Immediately pour anglaise
into a fine-mesh sieve over a medium
bowl. Place in an ice bath to cool quickly,
or cover with a piece of plastic wrap, pressing
wrap directly onto surface, and refrigerate until
completely cool. Once cool, stir in brandy. Cover
and refrigerate for up to 4 days. •
back page babka