Terri Doney The Koda Cross Body Bag pattern is for vinyl/cork or leather exterior and décor weight fabric lining. No interfacing is needed. If you want to do the bag in cotton then you will need to add interfacing, fleece or foam where needed.
Glossary Topstitch Decorative large straight stitch (e.g. 3.5 to 4) usually sewn around finished edge of item
Baste To sew two pieces of fabric together temporarily with long removable stitches, either done by hand or on machine
Backstitch When you stitch backwards over previously sewn stitches
Clip Curves Clip a V with scissors on curves to reduce bulk
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***Important – Read First*** There are no pattern pieces, just measurements for the pattern.
Cutting and Fusing Instructions:
Cut all pattern pieces from fabric according to chart below. Please note that I means cut 1, II means cut 2 and so on!
Pattern pieces Exterior Lining Measurements
Main Panel I II 10¼"H by 10½"W Top Panel I 3"H by 10½"W Bottom Panel I 7"H by 10½"W Front Pocket Lining I 10"H by 10½"W Zipper Tabs IIII 1¼" by 1¼"
Tips for Using Vinyl
Use either a teflon foot, walking foot or roller foot. Use a larger stitch such as 4 and above. Practice with some scraps if possible, adjust tension if needed. Do not pin vinyl as it may leave holes, use clips to hold pieces together. Do not backstitch unless necessary, vinyl may tear if sewn over too many times in one area.
A five part video tutorial is available on youtube where you can
watch me make the Koda Cross Body Bag from start to finish.
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Instructions
Note: If you would like to make your Koda
similar to the aboriginal fabric one I made with cork on the bottom, you need to split the bottom and back main panel into two measurements. I did 4½" for the fabric and 3½" for the leather and joined them with a ½" seam. I did a larger seam so that I could topstitch the double line and keep the leather seam in place behind the fabric. The back main panel has to be split the same way, leather piece 3½" and fabric 7¾".
Fold connector webbing piece in half,
insert the O-ring and baste along the raw edges to keep closed.
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Backstitch across the end of the zipper where the zipper pull is to keep it closed. This will make it easier to attach tabs. Lay zipper tab right sides down on edge of zipper, stitch across zipper tab ¼" from edge. Repeat with the other 3 tabs.
Press tabs open and topstitch across 2 of the tabs on one zipper. This will be the front pocket zipper. Fold the 2 tabs on the other zip under and topstitch across, catching the tab underneath. Trim any excess. This will be the top zipper.
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Place front zipper right side up on 10½" edge of pocket lining.
Place exterior bottom panel over top
of the zipper.
Use clips to hold in place. Zipper will
be sandwiched between bottom panel and pocket lining. Stitch with a ¼" seam.
Press bottom panel and pocket lining
away from zipper. Topstitch along bottom panel and pocket lining, approx. 1/8" from edge.
Fold pocket lining up and clip to other
side of the zipper. Line up top panel right sides to zipper, clip in place.
Zipper will be sandwiched between
pocket lining and top panel.
Stitch top panel, zipper and pocket
lining together with approx. ¼" seam allowance.
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Press top panel away from zipper.
Topstitch along top panel, catching
seam.
Baste down sides of bottom panel
catching pocket lining.
Baste O ring connector and top
zipper to the right side of one main panel lining at 1/8" from edge.
Flip lining with zipper over and
stitch with a ¼" seam to the exterior main panel. Top zipper will be sandwiched between exterior and lining main panel.
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Press exterior main panel away from the zipper and topstitch making sure you catch the seam, and DON’T stitch through the lining.
Baste strap edge to other side of
zipper.
Attach other main panel exterior
and lining to the other side of the zipper with a ¼" seam. Move connector out of the way.
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Press the main panels away from the zipper, topstitch the exterior panel making sure you catch the seam, and DON’T stitch through the lining.
Cut out darts on all four exterior
corners and lining corners. Use the Darts template on page 12. Darts are approx. 1½" long and 1" wide. Fold darts right sides together and stitch approx. 1/8" to ¼" away from edge.
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Open top zipper ¾ of the way. Line up exterior panels and lining panels at the darts, clip in place. Make sure top zipper and tabs are pushed down towards lining and that the strap is pushed inside the bag and out of the way when stitching. Stitch around exterior and lining panels with a ¼" seam (taper down to a 3/8" seam on the lining, this will help keep the lining snug). Leave a 5" gap at the bottom of the lining panels for turning.
Turn the bag through the
gap, push out corners and top zipper tabs neatly. I used a chopstick to help straighten up the tabs.
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When adding the strap to the strap slide, I lay the bag flat with zipper pocket facing up. Feed the strap through the slide from back to front and then to back again, leaving a large loop of strap to work with when stitching later. Feed the strap through the O-ring from the front to back and up to the slide. Feed strap through back of slide. I use a clip to hold in place to check that the strap has been fed the right way. Stitch across the fold to attach the strap end. Fold the edges of the 5” gap in the lining and stitch close to the edge, backstitch at both ends.
