WOODWORK | TURNING | TOOL TESTS | PROFILES

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November 2017
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 November 2017 issue WELCOME

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EDITORIAL
learning can take place in a casual exchange like this, and
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it’s a great opportunity for us practiced and experienced
Editor: Mark Cass
Email: editor.ww@mytimemedia.com
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PRODUCTION learning to those in need. I recall learning some very
Designer: Nik Harber
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right down to the basics – often for those who may have to the growing irritation of others), the genuine passing
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MANAGEMENT
Group Advertising Manager: Rhona Bolger knowledge and techniques as you try to make things clear. Like so much in life, finding an opportunity to pass on
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Tel: 01689 869 891 This is a very good thing, and the more you do of it the some good advice is largely a matter of luck, and whether
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Chairman: Peter Harkness better your understanding of seemingly obvious activities you believe that you get the luck you deserve or if it is
will become. entirely random without rhyme or reason, the fact remains
We endeavour to ensure all techniques shown
in The Woodworker are safe, but take no Of course, the opportunity doesn’t always present that every now and then the timing can be just perfect.
responsibility for readers’ actions. Take care
when woodworking and always use guards,
itself, and you can’t go around accosting arbitrary people As our paths cross and we bumble around it’s nice to think
goggles, masks, hold-down devices and ear
protection, and above all, plenty of common
at bus-stops like some over-zealous carpenter on a that we may just have helped a fellow soul to improve
sense. Do remember to enjoy yourself, though mission to spread the woodworking word; who knows their skills or keep themselves safe from harm. And who
what might happen then? Different from the unpaid knows, if you get good at it you could always consider it
consultant role that many assume for themselves (often as a full-time career...

You can contact Mark on editor.ww@mytimemedia.com

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THIS MONTH THE EDITOR HAS BEEN:

Preparing to teach • teaching • working in the rain • whittling in the sun

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 3

 NOVEMBER 2017

WOODWORK
24 The making of a Medieval longbow
Jeremy Spencer tells John Greeves how he
would go about crafting a longbow for first
time bowyers

28 “Brace yourself,
this is going to be a bit boring”
Gary Cook gives us a glimpse into his impressive
collection of bit sets and also advises on how
best to go about sharpening them

32 Toys on display
Ian Wilkie’s design for a display unit to show
off a child’s toy collection is an approachable
16 A FLATTER, FIRMER BENCH
and fun-to-make project Robin Gates flattens his workbench, rigidifies it with braces and
makes a planing stop – then gets busy with the black shoe polish!
40 Bringing the Moravian Stool
into the 21st century
Jasmine Craven-Huffer shares the story of
how she went about updating and modernising
a 500-year-old design

46 My workshop – Colin Simpson

Resident woodturner Colin Simpson
gives us a glimpse inside his workshop

48 Route to routing: early days

for the must-have power tool
This excerpt from The Woodworker of May 1968
samples a serious review of the Stanley H264

50 A workshop for Sophie

Dennis Knight, with the help of his
granddaughter, customises a ready-made shed
and sets about building a workshop inside that
will be suitable for a budding young woodworker

52 Whittling away the hours

The Editor is a big fan of this beautifully presented,
practical gift guide to the age-old art of whittling

61 Dancing with diversity

Michael Forster combines bubinga, ash and
ebony to make a leather-lined desk box with
lift-out tray

66 Blanket coverage
Peter Benson hones his skills with a router,
jigs and template to make a pine quilt stand

70 A carpenter’s chips
Phil Whitfeld looks back to the humble
beginnings of English carpentry

74 Time for a change

Michael Allsop presents an alternative approach
to the mantelpiece clock for those woodworkers
lacking in machinery

90 Welcome to Bugbrooke Church

We join Stan Clark are he shares his memories 28
of working at his local church

4 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 What’s inside? CONTENTS

TURNING
54 Colouring & texturing – part 3
In the final part of this mini series, Colin Simpson
wraps things up by showing you four more great
techniques for applying colour and texture to
your turnings

ON TEST
78 Wixey WL133 drill press laser

79 Bosch GKF 12 V-8 Professional

compact router

80 Veritas, Lie-Nielsen, Quangsheng

and Stanley Low-angle jack planes

REGULARS
3 Welcome
8 AOB & diary
9 Timber directory
15 News from D&M Tools
30 Readers’ letters
48 Archive
58 Subscriptions
76 Next month
89 Marketplace

74

50 54
www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 5
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 NEWS In brief...

ANY OTHER BUSINESS particular brands (and anything that doesn’t cause
DIARY – NOVEMBER
When it comes to finishing a job – and this, let’s the home to smell like an industrial zone), not to 1 Sharpening hand tools with Tormek*
face it, is the key to success – applying a finish mention legislation to keep us all safe, have led to 1–2 Wood machining
is generally the last thing to do. Aptly named, a massive increase in popularity for the water- 1–2 & 9–10* Woodturning for beginners
and essential for both its visual appearance based version of every interior paint and varnish. 2–3 Beehive making
and protective qualities, a finish used to be a Fortunately the chemical industry has kept pace 3*, 6–7 & 28–29* Routing for beginners
straightforward choice for the busy woodworker; with demand and increasingly better quality and 6–10 Woodturning
paint or varnish. Occasionally French polish more reliable paints are now stocking the shelves. 7–10 Engineering mill and lathe – intro
and wax would come into the question for a Oils too have multiplied in variety and number 9 Hand plane tuning
particularly fine piece, but generally it came and, while I have encountered a water-based ‘oil’ 10 Sharpening hand tools
down to clear or colour. There’s much to be said (useful for the tradesman in a hurry, but inferior to 14 Introduction to Leigh jigs*
for a painted finish and one old joiner I worked proper oil-based oils), the majority are dependable 16 Turning peppermills*
with years ago would, on completing a job that and fit for purpose, especially those which have 21 Turning a pestle & mortar*
he considered less than perfect, recommend a pioneered new techniques to successfully blend 23–24 Turning Christmas nutcrackers
‘nice thick coat of paint’ to hide any blemishes. oil and wax. There’s seemingly no end to it, and 27 Pyrography
These days we’re faced with an enormous array for the interested woodworker a huge range to 28 Making Christmas gifts
of paints, varnishes, oils and coatings, and nearly choose from. And the down side? Paints and 28–29 Small engineering lathe – intro
all of them are now available in an acrylic or finishes always seem to be vastly expensive. * Course held in Sittingbourne, Kent
water-based version, too. I expect many readers If anyone has found any budget alternatives, Axminster Tools & Machinery
will remember the early acrylic finishes, and I’d love to hear about them. Unit 10 Weycroft Avenue
be glad that things have improved, especially Axminster, Devon EX13 5PH
over the last few years. Many painters still swear Tel: 08009 751 905
by an oil-based paint, but customer demands for Web: www.axminster.co.uk

BOSCH INTRODUCES NEW 6–10 Cabinetmaking techniques

25–26 Basic jointing weekend
PROFESSIONAL COMPACT ROUTER 27–1 Router skills
The world’s first cordless compact router in and lockable depth Chris Tribe, The Cornmill, Railway Road
the professional market and brand-new from settings. Health and safety Ilkley, West Yorkshire LS29 8HT
Bosch, this exciting model features excellent considerations have also Tel: 01943 602 836
ergonomics and safety, including drop detection. been factored in, thanks Web: www.christribefurniturecourses.com
It also benefits from long runtime and lifetime, to a drop detection sensor
thanks to brushless motor technology. system that shuts off 11–12 Wood machining
In addition, optimised ergonomics allow for the tool if it falls, and 30–3 French polishing
one-handed use, and with an extremely low finger barriers prevent & modern hand finishes
size and weight it features a uniquely small unintentional contact John Lloyd Fine Furniture, Bankside Farm
grip circumference and ideal hand positioning. with running bits. Ditchling Common, Burgess Hill
You can also expect safe and comfortable tool As well as all this, there is a high-powered, East Sussex RH15 0SJ
guidance, thanks to a new bit-to-tool formation highly energy-efficient brushless EC motor; Tel: 01444 480 388
and enlarged footplate contact surface, as well spindle lock for easy tool-less bit change; Web: www.johnlloydfinefurniture.co.uk
as perfect depth control, with smooth and fast compatibility with the Bosch accessories range,
macro depth adjustment, easy fine adjustment, including 8mm, 6mm and 14⁄ in collets, and this tool 12 Intro to woodcarving
is also fully compatible with the comprehensive 15 Intro to sharpening
‘HARROGATE’ 2017 SHOW Bosch 12V Li-ion power tool range. 26 Intro to spoon carving
The new GKF 12 V-8 Professional compact The Goodlife Centre
SET TO BE THE BEST YET! router is now available from specialist retailers 49/55 Great Guildford Street
This year’s North of with an RRP from £166.80; to find out more, London SE1 0ES
England Woodworking see www.bosch-pt.com. Tel: 0207 760 7613
& Power Tool show, or Web: www.thegoodlifecentre.co.uk
the ‘Harrogate’ show
as it is affectionately known, is set to be the biggest and best yet. 7–28 Introduction to green woodwork
With 40 top demonstrators on show throughout each day and over 25–2 Make a Windsor-style stool
100 companies exhibiting, this year’s event promises to be a great day Ben Willis Woodcraft, Stoney Lane Studios
out. Be sure to put a date in your diaries for 17–19 November and for Stoney Lane, Crystal Palace, London SE19 3BD
more information or to purchase advance tickets, visit the website: Tel: 07976 287 797
www.skpromotions.co.uk or call 01474 536 535. Web: www.benwillis-woodcraft.co.uk

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 TIMBER DIRECTORY

The Woodworker Timber Suppliers Directory – NOVEMBER 2017

Adhectic Ltd (Berkshire) Fulham Timber (London) S.L. Hardwoods (Croydon)
Tel: 020 3051 4794
Tel: 01235 520 738 Tel: 0208 685 5340
Web: www.slhardwoods.co.uk
Web: www.adhectic.co.uk Web: www.fulhamtimber.co.uk
St. Andrews Timber & Building Supplies
A Harrison (Northants) G&S Specialist Timber (Cumbria) (Scotland)
Tel: 01536 725 192 Tel: 01768 891 445 Tel: 01316 611 333
Web: www.aharrisonwoodturning.co.uk Web: www.toolsandtimber.co.uk Web: www.standrewstimbersupplies.co.uk

Bennetts Timber (Lincolnshire) Good Timber (Northamptonshire) Surrey Timbers Ltd (Guildford)
Tel: 01472 350 151 Tel: 01327 344 550 Tel: 01483 457 826
Web: www.bennettstimber.co.uk Web: www.goodtimber.com Web: www.surreytimbers.co.uk

Black Isle Woodturning (Scotland) Interesting Timbers (Somerset) Sykes Timber (Warwickshire)
Tel: 07842 189 743 Tel: 01761 241 333 Tel: 01827 718 951
Web: www.blackislewoodturning.com Web: www.interestingtimbers.co.uk Web: www.sykestimber.co.uk

Brodies Timber (Perthshire) ISCA Woodcrafts (South Wales) The Timber Mill (Cornwall)
Tel: 07966 396 419
Tel: 01350 727 723 Tel: 01633 810 148/07854 349 045
Web: www.thetimbermill.com
Web: www.brodiestimber.co.uk Web: www.iscawoodcrafts.co.uk
The Wood Recycling Store (East Sussex)
Brooks Brothers Timber (Essex) Joyce Timber (London) Tel: 01273 570 500
Tel: 01621 877 400 Tel: 0208 883 1610 Web: www.woodrecycling.org.uk
Web: www.brookstimber.co.uk Web: www.joycetimber.co.uk
Thorogood Timber Ltd (Essex)
C&G Barrett Ltd, Cilfiegan Sawmill Lincolnshire Woodcraft (Lincolnshire) Tel: 01206 233 100
(South Wales) Tel: 01780 757 825 Web: www.thorogood.co.uk
Tel: 01291 672 805 Web: www.lincolnshirewoodcraft.co.uk
Web: www.cilfiegansawmill.com Timberman (Carmarthenshire)
Nottage Timber (South Wales) Tel: 01267 232 621
D Emmerson Timber (Lincolnshire) Tel: 01656 745 959 Web: www.timberman.co.uk
Tel: 01507 524 728 Web: www.nottagetimber.co.uk
Web: www.emmersontimber.co.uk
Tree Station (Lancashire)
Tel: 01612 313 333
Ockenden Timber (Powys) Web: www.treestation.co.uk
Earlswood Interiors (West Midlands) Tel: 01588 620 884
Tel: 01564 703 706 Web: www.ockenden-timber.co.uk UK Timber Ltd (Northamptonshire)
Web: www.earlswoodinteriors.co.uk Tel: 01536 267 107
Olivers Woodturning (Kent) Web: www.uk-timber.co.uk
English Woodlands Timber (West Sussex) Tel: 01622 370 280
Tel: 01730 816 941 Web: www.oliverswoodturning.co.uk Waterloo Timber Ltd (Lancashire)
Web: www.englishwoodlandstimber.co.uk Tel: 01200 423 263
Oxford Wood Recycling (Oxfordshire) Web: No website
Exotic Hardwoods (Kent) Tel: 01235 861 228
Tel: 01732 355 626 Web: www.owr.org.uk Wenban Smith (West Sussex)
Web: www.exotichardwoods.co.uk Tel: 01903 230 311
Stiles & Bates (Kent) Web: www.wenbans.com
EO Burton, Thorndon Sawmills (Essex) Tel: 01304 366 360
Tel: 01277 260 810 Web: www.stilesandbates.co.uk Wentwood Timber Centre (South Wales)
Web: www.eoburton.com Tel: 01633 400 720
Scadding Timber (Avon) Web: www.wentwoodtimbercentre.co.uk
Eynsham Park Sawmill (Oxfordshire) Tel: 01179 556 032
Tel: 01993 881 391 Web: www.scadding-son-ltd.co.uk W L West & Sons Ltd (Surrey)
Web: www.eynshamparksawmill.co.uk Tel: 01798 861 611
Scawton Sawmill (North Yorkshire) Web: www.wlwest.co.uk
FH Ives (Essex) Tel: 01845 597 733
Yandle & Sons Ltd (Somerset)
Tel: 01268 732 373 Web: www.scawtonsawmill.co.uk
Tel: 01935 822 207
Web: www.fhives.com Web: www.yandles.co.uk

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WW May 2017 9
NEWS In brief...

DON’T BLUNT YOUR INVALUABLE READING

COMPETITIVE EDGE FOR BOAT FITTERS
With increasingly stringent energy regulations and tight budgets Mike Jordan has been making woodwork for amateur and professional
a norm across all industries, today’s manufacturing industry takes boat fitters for more than 35 years, with some of his work quietly
energy efficiency seriously, and this can begin on a much smaller scale. featuring in several award-winning boats. He has been happy to make
So what factors do manufacturers need to consider when it comes to the ‘tricky bits’ for many a boat building project.
choosing the right bandsaw? His new book Narrow Boat & Dutch Barge Joinery Designs for Boat
Fitters (ISBN 978-0-9576824-0-5) contains many of the designs used.
Bandsaw blades Sketches and colour photographs
Choosing the correct bandsaw blade naturally depends entirely on of the making process are included,
the application and cost requirements of the project at hand; the better together with material sizes and
the lifespan of a bandsaw blade, the better its efficiency and cost. cutting lists where appropriate.
For example, if you are completing a re-sawing or cut-off sawing For those who lack the equipment
project, you will almost certainly require the maximum blade width the or the time to complete the designs,
machine allows to keep cuts straight without breaking blades. On the the book ensures that your local
other hand, contour sawing requires a blade that is narrow enough woodworker can make the item you
to cut accurately to the desired radius to reduce material waste. need without spending expensive
Getting the lowest cost per cut, while maintaining a high standard time on design work. The book is
of finish, is the optimal way to keep both productivity and profits high. available at chandlers, boatyards, or
Bi-metal and carbide are probably the two most obvious blade materials from online retailers. Priced at £18.50
engineers consider when choosing a bandsaw blade. Unfortunately, there (post free), email Mike for further info:
is no ideal bandsaw blade that will cut through all types of material. In mike.jordan31@btinternet.com.
fact, using the wrong type of blade is a quick way to ruin the blade and the
material you are trying to cut, as well as potentially damaging the machine.

The right bandsaw BESPOKE DISPLAY CABINET FIT

Deciding on the most effective blade type is not the only important
choice to make – choosing the right kind of machine to use is equally FOR A RELAUNCHED MUSEUM
important. Generally, there are two types of bandsaw. The bigger, NEJ Stevenson has completed its latest commission to design bespoke
industrial-sized models have larger motors with variable speeds. display cases for The Ark Gallery at the newly reopened Garden
Smaller machines and bench-top models are generally fixed speed Museum in London. The display cabinets have been carefully designed
and have their place in many a home workshop. Ultimately, the as part of the Garden Museum’s Development Project, in order to house
choice of bandsaw is down to the application it is required for. a number of precious artefacts loaned by many of the country’s great
The ergonomics of a bandsaw are also an important consideration. museums. The bespoke cabinetry was completed in a style appropriate
Ideally, the design of a machine should provide users with quick and to the museum’s 17th century collector, John Tradescant, whose
easy access to an emergency stop button as well as complying with all original museum of curiosities inspired the gallery’s concept design
the compulsory regulatory standards, including, of course, CE marking. by Alec Cobbe.
Choosing the right blade and machine for the desired application might The cabinetry comprises of a single run of five display cases, each
seem self-explanatory; however, making the wrong decision can severely 6m long, and two individual cabinets. One cabinet houses a statue and
cost manufacturers in the long term. Whether it is through accidental the other is formed of two glass displays, one on top of the other. The
blade damage, wasting of materials through incorrect or inaccurate cabinetry uses museum grade sheet materials and hardwood, with a
cutting or machine damage caused by incorrect usage – choosing the hand-applied paint finish. Designed and made specifically for The Ark
right machine can save more than you might think. Gallery, NEJ Stevenson’s custom-made cabinets house 20 treasurable
To find out more about the Starrett bandsaw range, see the website: artefacts and artworks in the Museum’s collection. To find out more,
www.starrett.co.uk. see www.nejstevenson.co.uk and www.gardenmuseum.org.uk.
Photograph courtesy of John Chase

One of the bespoke display cases designed and made by NEJ Stevenson

10 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 ESSENTIAL FIXINGS TO GET YOU OUT OF A FIX!
Axminster has recently introduced some new To secure the clip, the worm screw has a hexagonal Assorted nails
sets to its range of workshop fixings. Under the head and screwdriver slot (average contents 26). These consist of both masonry and common
name of Workshop Essentials, there are new nails in a variety of lengths. The common nails
sets of hose clamps, retaining clips (e-clips), Flat washers are nickel-plated to protect against corrosion
copper sealing and sump washers, flat washers, These are made of steel with CR3 zinc plating (average contents 580).
nylon lock nuts, assorted nails, washer sealing to prevent corrosion; made to DIN 125 standard. All these Workshop Essentials come in a
rings, rubber O-rings and assorted pop rivets. With this useful assortment you will have the useful plastic organiser box measuring 210 ×
They’re perfectly suited to the hobby workshop, washer you need whenever you need it (average 110 × 30mm. These new essential fixings sets
the professional and especially the home; in fact contents 900). will stop those annoying moments when a nail,
anywhere a quick fix is needed quickly. washer or clip is required and there isn’t one to
Below is a bit more information about some Nylon lock nuts hand. All fixings come with a handy selection of
of the sets. These have a nylon insert on their upper face and sizes, and prices range from £4.99 up to £11.99.
the grip of the nylon insert resists turning forces, You can also buy all 11 as a kit – Axminster’s
Copper sealing & sump washers thus preventing the nut from coming loose when Mighty Maintenance Kit – at a special
These have many uses in plumbing, automotive subject to vibration. They come in six sizes, ranging introductory price of £39.96. To find out more,
applications, low pressure hydraulics, from M3 to M10. The nuts are steel with CR3 zinc see www.axminster.co.uk – please note that
pneumatics and pumps. They are well suited plating to prevent corrosion, made to DIN 985 prices include VAT and may be subject to change
for use in outdoor architectural and building standard (average contents 195). without notice.
applications where there is
exposure to the weather.
Being a good conductor of
electricity, copper washers
are useful in electrical
applications (average
contents 150).

Hose clamps
These feature CR3 zinc
plating against corrosion
and the clips are ideal for
fastening hoses around
pipes or taps, repairs to
domestic appliances and
automotive applications.

NEW SPIRAL SLOTTING A CUT ABOVE THE REST –

CUTTERS FROM TREND THE NEW MINI SAW
Trend has launched a new range of five professional spiral slotting cutters
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FROM SILVERLINE
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quality, like-for-like performance, creating perfect mortises every time. wood, metals, composites and ceramics up to a depth of 12mm.
Micro-granular Tungsten Carbide Tips on each cutter ensures a fast The saw’s impressive 400W motor puts out a load speed of 3,700rpm
cutting action, offering durability and performance in both solid timber and weighs just 1.34kg, making its power-to-weight ratio one of the
and abrasive man-made materials. A double spiral up-cut profile clears best in its class.
debris from the mortises quickly, thus minimising heat build-up and The dust extraction system keeps the work areas clean, for more
helping to prolong the life of the tooling. precise cuts, and included with the saw are three cutting blades,
The DOM/04, DOM/05, DOM/06, DOM/08 and DOM/10 are priced tungsten carbide, high speed steel cutting and a ceramic cutting blade.
from £25.80-£30.60 inc VAT and are available from all Trend Routing As with all Silverline power tools the Mini Saw comes with a three-
Centres and Stockists across the UK; see www.trend-uk.com. year guarantee, and has an RRP of just £52.99; to find out more,
see www.silverlinetools.com.

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 11

NEWS In brief...

MAKITA “FURNITURE SCHOOL IS NO

EXPANDS CINDERELLA,” SAYS PRINCIPAL
Scotland’s only dedicated furniture design school is calling on careers
IMPRESSIVE guidance professionals not to forget fine woodworking as a career option
18V LXT for young people. The Chippendale International School of Furniture in
East Lothian takes in some 25 students from around the world each year,
TOOL RANGE but the school remains concerned that careers guidance only seems to
highlight trades such as joinery and plumbing for youngsters who want
Makita’s popular, high performance range of LXT power tools now to work with their hands after leaving school.
includes the new DTD155 18V brushless impact driver, which is both The school’s call comes a day after Scottish exam results were
compact, equalling the size of the 10.8V machines, not to mention published, with some 150,000 passes at Higher level. “A year-long course
being enormously powerful. at the Chippendale school can, and does, pave the way for a fulfilling
This model runs up to 3,000rpm in high mode, delivers an impressive career in fine furniture design and making,” said Anselm Fraser, principal
3,900 impacts per minute, and generates a substantial 140Nm of the school, which opened over 30 years ago. “But we seem destined
maximum tightening torque. Weighing 1.4kg, this smart impact driver always to be the Cinderella of career options for young people, with
with slim motor housing will drive home a high strength M12 bolt, a almost no school leavers from Scotland or the rest of the UK applying
M14 standard bolt, M8 machine screw and 90mm coarse thread screw. for one of our courses,” he said.
The new DTD155 impact driver features Makita’s Brushless motor This year, students came from the USA, UK, Poland, Germany, Austria,
technology, which substantially enhances the performance and Singapore, India, South Korea and Australia – but with no school leaver
longevity of the tool while reducing friction within the motor and graduates coming from Scotland.
so releasing greater power from the ‘engine’. This in turn extends Student of the Year 2016/17 was a recently-retired tax inspector from
the runtime of the battery and generates less heat, thus reducing Australia, and last year’s top prize went to a Russian student who was
maintenance. looking to change careers, and who has now set up her own business in
Featuring a variable-speed trigger, electric brake, and forward/ St Petersburg.
reverse rotation selection, this model has low vibration and sound “The majority of applicants to the Chippendale school are from people
qualities, a two-speed impact power selection, LED job light and who have embarked on a career, but who have found it to be unfulfilling,
comfortable soft grip handle. and enrolling at the school is all about following their passion,” said
The DTD155 also offers the new A-Mode (Assist-Mode) facility. Anselm Fraser. “However, it is disappointing that we rarely receive
When selected, rotation starts slowly allowing maximum control of applications from young people leaving school, particularly from Scotland,
the screw as it starts to bite into the material. Once the impact driver who are being pointed in other directions. Many young people simply
detects the screw tightening it switches to full speed and impact don’t know that
power to complete the tightening sequence. This feature is designed furniture design
to eliminate ‘screw cam-out’ and ‘cross threading’ caused by high courses are
speed rotation before the screw bites in the material. The new available, because
Makita DTD155 is available in a body only format. careers guidance
teachers also
18V LXT two-piece Brushless kit don’t know they
A new 18V LXT two-piece Brushless kit has also been introduced, and exist,” he said.
this duo affords the benefit of a new form of hydraulic transmission To find out more
in the DTS141 oil pulse driver that delivers impact power while about the school
substantially reducing the machine’s operating vibration and noise and the courses
levels. This kit comes with two 18V 5.0Ah batteries and a fast charger, on offer, see www.
all delivered in a convenient and durable MAKPAC case. To find out chippendaleschool.
more, see www.makitauk.com. com. School principal, Anselm Fraser

THE ANT: a new multi-purpose hot craft tool ANNUAL TOOL

A breakthrough in crafting, The Ant comes with starter tips so you can get creative with
a variety of medias, such as leatherwork, hot-fix gems, stencils, pyrography, papercraft, & EQUIPMENT
wax art, fabric and card foiling, using only one tool.
The first in a family of products, The Ant from AntCraft is an innovative modular system
AUCTION
that comes equipped with five different tips and adaptors to get you started in almost any Northumbrian Woodturners
hot craft task. The toolkit includes a mini iron, pointed, script and calligraphy tips for foiling, Association will be holding their
stencil and pyrography work, as well as a flat gem tip, with over 50 additional tips annual auction of tools and
available separately. equipment on 8 December at
AntCraft’s Suretip system allows tips to be switched fast, even when hot using Briardale Community Centre,
the tip puller, leaving more time to focus on creativity and design – there’s no need Briardale Road, Blyth NE24 5AN.
to wait for your tool to cool. You can expect free entry and
The ergonomic handle, designed for comfort and close work, features 10 controlled parking, plus a good selection of
temperature settings for you to choose between, depending on the craft requirement. both new and used lots on offer.
The Ant Family accessory packs include: Pyrography Pack – 19 tips; Wax Pack – three The catalogue will be available
tips; Fabric Pack – seven tips; Foil Pack – 10 tips; Calligraphy Pack – 1 tip; Gem Pack from mid November; email Stan
– nine tips; Stenciling – 1 tip, and an Iron Tip pack, with prices starting from £4.99. Oakey for more information:
The Ant is priced at £69.99; see www.antcraft.co.uk for more information. stan.oakey@icloud.com.

12 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

Experience SJÖBERGS Nordic Workbench
The total package
with added value!
With a Scandinavian pine frame and
a Nordic birch top, this bench is made
to last a lifetime of normal use.
• Double row of dog holes from each vice location
• Steel vice spindles, up to 1300kp force
• 4 vice mounting locations
• Suitable for right-handed or left-handed people
• Supplied with 4 bench dogs and 2 vices

The Nordic Plus 1450 package comes

with a sliding double door cupboard and
Nordic Plus 1450 Workbench,
four-drawer storage module which slots Cabinet & FREE Accessory Kit – Worth £80
underneath the bench and an accessory
kit containing holdfast, jaw cushions Special Price £429.96 Inc.vat Code 474087
(aluminium and cork) and universal anvil. Normally £465.50 Inc.vat Saving over £35 – Offer valid until 31st December 2017 while stocks last

Available from BriMarc Tools & Machinery

at brimarc.com or call 03332 406967

A I L OOL
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T R R
E Y 17 N
November 2017 10am - 5pm
S W
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November 2017 10am - 5pm
R 19 Nov
November 2017 10am - 4pm

E LA NG COU Nelton EExhibitions

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WOODWORK Workbench made new

1 Smoothing an oak board against the

‘pegged’ planing stop on a flat bench

A flatter, firmer bench

Robin Gates flattens his workbench, rigidifies it with braces and
makes a planing stop – then gets busy with the black shoe polish!

A
fter moving house, I was lamenting a cork, but I soldiered on regardless. Then about if the work itself is flexing like a trampoline under
my lack of a woodworking bench a year ago I decided to investigate the problem the downward pressure of a plane passing over it.
when a sturdy kitchen island popped with a try square (photo 2), and was shocked Clearly, it was time to flatten this bench properly.
into view at the British Heart by just how much light was beaming under its
Foundation furniture shop in Hereford. The blade. This was more than a choppy sea – I was Straight edges
rattling screws and barrel nuts of its typical trying to saw and plane timber on the peaks The first thing I needed was a straightedge.
flat-pack fixings were not the stuff a would-be and troughs of a veritable ocean storm. Even The blade of my ancient ebony and brass try
Roubo’s dreams are made of, but it was so, patience isn’t my strong suit, and having square is straight, and square to the stock, but
generously made of solid beech, reassuringly levelled a small working area at the front of the neither long enough nor free-standing. One option
weighty and – the clincher – cheap. A quick bench with some swift passes of the wooden was to buy a straightedge, but this would be
go round with the Allen key and the thing jack plane (photo 3) and No.4 smoother (photo metal and I prefer wood. Luckily I had a length
seemed ready for work, which is why it has 4), I promptly returned to the job then in hand. of old – and therefore stable – oak (photo 5),
taken me this long to get round to something For the small projects I’d tackled thus far this which I’d salvaged from a discarded sideboard.
I should have done the day it set foot in the half-hearted attempt at flattening was good The piece was first ripped down the middle to
garden shed – flattening its surface. enough, but recently I’ve been working with larger make two, each about 8 × 50 × 500mm, then
Straight away I knew that in terms of flatness boards and requiring more precision. With this flattened and straightened using the long-soled
the surface was more choppy sea than millpond, in mind I have laboriously flattened the soles of Stanley No.7; for timber this size, I had just
as every board placed on it would bob about like my planes, the benefits of which are utterly lost sufficient area of flat bench to work on.

16 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 2 The try square exposes severe cupping in the 3 A first attempt at flattening with the wooden
block-built surface jack plane...

4 ... followed by smoothing with the Stanley No.4

With a torch (photo 6) shining through the valleys

below the straightedge I could now clearly see
where the high spots lay, and marked them with
a pencil. Although this had me lying with my face
to the bench like I’d fallen asleep, it really wasn’t 5 Straightening the edge of an oak straightedge with 6 Shining a torch behind the straightedge to expose
that comfortable. I repeated the operation as the jointer the ups and downs
flattening progressed, gaining an earful of
wood shavings in the process. planing a block against the grain, so tear-out to a plane intermediate in size between two whole
It’s worth mentioning that this bench is of the was a distinct possibility. numbers – so it’s bigger than a 5 and smaller than
composite type, built from scores of finger-jointed a 6. So much for stating the blindingly obvious,
beech blocks, so instead of having consistent 51⁄2 out of 5 but that wider cut of a 60mm blade instead of
grain, as you’d find in a surface built of full-length One good thing to have come out of my delay 50mm and the increased momentum of 2.7kg
boards, the grain changes character from one with this job was that I’d found a very tidy Record on the move endow this jack with an extra oomph
block to the next with the abruptness of a radio 512⁄ jack plane for £15 at the local Age UK charity that really comes into its own when there’s a big
switching from Beethoven to The Beatles. shop – a good cause in which I’m fast approaching surface area in front of it. The 512⁄ is also an inch
As a consequence, I would have expected the a vested interest. Having previously toyed with longer than the 5, so if flattening is your goal,
random assortment of grain directions to have the idea of buying a standard No.5 jack, I was glad that’s a definite advantage.
cancelled out the kind of movement you see in I’d waited for this one to show up, and having Despite the block-built nature of the surface,
wide flat-sawn boards, which cup as they lose flattened the sole and sharpened the blade would there is some pattern to it, in that the long-grain
moisture due to tangential shrinkage. But in award it a solid 512⁄ out of 5 in all departments. is largely aligned with the length of the bench, so
practice the surface had rippled across its width At first, a plane numbered 512⁄ struck me as the best direction for planing was at 45° (photo 7),
like a rucked-up tablecloth. And just to compound slightly fantastical, like King’s Cross Platform going across the grain more or less equally for
that injustice, the block-built structure threatened 934⁄ in Harry Potter and The Philosopher’s Stone, all blocks. And so as to maintain evenness at the
to undermine the flattening procedure in that, for but following Stanley’s example, the Record end of each series of passes, I switched direction
every block planed with the grain I couldn’t avoid numbering system was simply to add the 12⁄ through 90° to return along the bench (photo 8),

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 17

 WOODWORK Workbench made new

7 Working across the surface at 45° with the Record 51⁄2… 8 ... and again at 90° to the first pass

again at 45° – but this time planing south-

easterly instead of north-easterly.
To reduce the effort required with a heavy
plane, I had sharpened the blade and set it
with an easy-going projection, which did the
trick in minimising tear-out, but at the expense
of prolonging the job. It seemed an age had
passed before I’d brought the highs down to the
level of the lowest low. A routine check with the
straightedge showed me just how deep I had yet
to dig. And while it was satisfying to see a heap
of shavings as the mounting evidence of progress,
it was important to keep the area where the plane
9 An improved grip to spare the little finger was working well swept, otherwise it would ride
on a layer of dust and be less effective.

Improved grip
A more personal observation concerned my little
finger. It was being squashed. I’ve experienced this
with my other metal-bodied bench planes too,
although not with my old wooden planes. So I
measured the finger space between the top and
bottom of the rear handle for both the 512⁄ and
the wooden jack, and found there’s 6mm less on
the metal plane. A swollen joint on the ring finger
of my right hand, arising from some childhood
escapade, makes this cramping more than usually
significant, piling pressure onto the little finger
below it on the handle. This led me to try a new
10 Celebrating too soon – there’s a way to go yet 11 Scribing a sight line to make a winding stick grip – extending the little finger along the base

18 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

12 Sighting between winding sticks to check for twist 13 Smoothing the surface with the Stanley No.7 14 Barking a maple pole with the drawknife to brace
the bench

bench, one at each end, and sighting over the

top of the near edge, I could see by any deviation
from parallel if the bench surface was twisted or, as
they say, ‘in wind’ (photo 11). Happily, there was no
perceptible twist and I could move on to smoothing
the surface (photo 13). Thanks to a rush of blood to
the wallet in a local antiques shop some months
earlier, I had just the tool for this – the vintage
Stanley No.7 mentioned earlier.
Much as I love working with wooden planes,
when I caught sight of this low-slung jointer lying
in the shadows, my pulse raced as I suspect it does
for some when a Ferrari flashes past the family
hatchback. Dating from about 1890 – the age of
steam – this No.7 lacks the adjustable frog of later
planes but the relationship between mouth and
blade is just about perfect in any case. In doing its
stuff of shaving the bench surface smooth, it slid
back and forth like a well-oiled piston.

Cure for racking

To complement my quest for a level surface,
15 Fitting rustic ash and maple diagonals to cure racking I decided to tackle a problem common to
inexpensive workbenches, this one included,
which is racking – an inherent weakness of the
right-angled rectangular design. The best cure
I’ve found is to fit diagonal braces, effectively
triangulating the structure; while it only takes a
good shove to convert a rectangle into a lop-sided
parallelogram, you can’t change the shape of
a triangle without destroying it altogether.
As an antidote to all this fussing over flatness
and perpendicularity, I found some ash and maple
poles I’d brought home from the woods, barked
them with the drawknife (photo 15) and screwed
16 Set fine, the Record 51⁄2 straightens an edge for 17 A teak cross-piece clamped by a bird’s them across the diagonals of the sides and back in
the planing stop beak batten, crook holdfast, and bench dog all their rustic glory (photo 14). They’d be no more
effective for being squared up and smoothed down,
of the handle, in dainty tea-cup style (photo 9). I felt a twinge of regret seeing that injured surface and may even be less so for having lost some of
For me, this is a lot more comfortable, and if disappear. As projects pass over it, a workbench their bulk. As a hybrid woodworker as happy with
anyone else finds a plane’s rear handle a bit develops a kind of landscape, with a story behind the axe and a bit of greenwood as with the plane
of a squeeze, it may be worth a try. every scar and stain. In a sense, a workbench is a and a seasoned board, I like to see something of
Incidentally, it’s that forward reaching base historical document as telling as any other to the the unconverted tree about the place.
to the handle, necessary to attach it to the metal eye that knows it. That said, in working without a fixed vice, some
casting, which is responsible for the cramping; Taking a breather from planing, I next painted of my rough-and-ready clamping techniques with
on my wooden jack, the handle slots tenon-like the inside of the shed with a light grey wash, dogs and wedges have proved an ongoing source
into a mortise in the stock. a background I find less distracting than the of frustration. For narrow boards the all-wooden
Flattening a working area of the bench in syrupy wood preservative it covered up. Returning combination of a crook holdfast, bird’s beak
isolation, a year earlier, had actually made the refreshed to the bench, the straightedge soon batten and bench dog is effective (photo 17),
current effort more difficult. Having born the brunt indicated an all-over flatness, and now I planed but for any board wider than the plane itself the
of the damage from misdirected saws and drills, up a second straightedge so that I could use the set-up is precarious. True, a planing stop can be
this area was gouged and kerfed like a Somme pair as winding sticks to check for twist. A sight improvised with a batten fixed across the bench
battlefield. Yet as the plane bit into it, bringing line scribed lengthways on the far stick assisted using G-clamps, but a dedicated planing stop
the pale pink hue of virgin beech to the light, visibility when, by placing the sticks across the would be so much more convenient (photo 16).

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 19

 WOODWORK Workbench made new

Rummaging around for suitably-sized stock, and ash bench dogs, a wooden planing stop chain, but I opted for a more gentle treatment
I found some parts salvaged from an old drawer has the advantage over a metal one in posing with a dab of black shoe polish (photo 26).
and, when the varnish had been scraped off, no danger to an errant blade. I’d used neutral shoe polish successfully on
I discovered I had two beautiful tropical wood before but it did feel risky rubbing in
hardwoods. One, a lovely piece of tea-coloured A workaday finish the black variety. Although initially the surface
teak for the cross-piece, and two, a rosy piece Bearing in mind that my workbench isn’t a dining resembled an oil spill on a sandy beach, given
of Honduran mahogany for the fence that table (though occasionally the reverse has been a bit of elbow grease, cutting back with a scraper
would hook over the edge of the bench. I haven’t true, unofficially) I opted for a wood-protecting and steel wool, the darker areas mellowed, and
worked genuine teak in a while, and was almost workaday finish of boiled linseed oil (photo 24) – a a more even tone evocative of the well-used
overwhelmed by its aroma released by the plane quicker drying alternative to raw linseed oil. Even bench took shape. And there’s a pleasing spin-
– as if the lid had been lifted on a spice chest. wearing a washing up glove, in the warmth of the off, too, in the shed’s aroma, now redolent of
The cross-piece ended up at 10 × 60 × 340mm, shed this pungent liquid crept everywhere and I the distant mornings when I would polish my
and the fence at 10 × 30 × 200mm. I scribed came indoors smelling like a horse’s nose bag. kids’ shoes before school. ww
quadrants on the ends of the fence with a dinky On top of that, with the grain of so many
set of Moore & Wright dividers (photo 20), beech blocks running in contrary directions, and
smoothed the curves with a spokeshave, absorbing oil to differing degrees, the result was
then assembled the planing stop with screws unavoidably patchy. In fact, although I’d achieved
using an engineer’s protractor as a guide to 90°. the flat surface I’d wanted, the more I looked at it,
With the brace and 25mm centre bit I bored the less I liked it. The problem was that it looked
a hole in the cross-piece to correspond with a too bright and new – an aesthetic judgement,
dog hole in the bench (photo 18), so that the I know, of no practical consequence – but I just
stop could be anchored by a wooden peg (photo had to tone it down to a more subdued shade
23). I didn’t know until I tried it how firm this if I was to feel happy working here.
arrangement would prove but I’m happy to report Latter-day exponents of the ‘distressed’ look
it’s rock solid. And like the chestnut holdfasts might suggest attacking the surface with a bicycle

18 Boring a 25mm hole for the peg 19 Checking the edge of the fence is square

20 Scribing a radiused end on the fence 21 Cutting away waste with the coping saw

22 Smoothing a radiused end with the Stanley 53 23 The planing stop is anchored by an ash peg 27 Finally, a flat bench with a more venerable look
spokeshave

20 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

24 Applying boiled linseed oil, to myself also 25 The bench, all flattened and oiled 26 Rubbing in the black wax shoe polish

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 21

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56 litre bag capacity DEVIL 6015 400V 5-10-15kW £179.00 £214.80
DEVIL 7025 400V 22kW £299.00 £358.80 SPARE NAILS /
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CPT1000
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 WOODWORK Medieval longbow
Photographs courtesy of Storm & Shelter & Jeremy Spencer

The making of a
Medieval longbow
Jeremy Spencer tells John Greeves how he would
go about crafting a longbow for first time bowyers

T
Tretower Court, Monmouthshire, where Welsh he combination of longbows and memorably at the Battle of Agincourt (1415). It’s
longbow men gathered before Agincourt arrows were referred to in former days often assumed that the longbow disappeared with
as ‘artillery’ and had the same deadly the use of gunpowder and canon but the finds from
outcome as a modern weapon today. the Mary Rose show how the longbow continued
TOOLS & MATERIALS REQUIRED The longbow resonates in its historical associations to play a significant part in warfare for a very long
Tools with medieval warfare and is best remembered time. Much of what we know about the medieval
Drawknife for its effective use against the French during the longbow is based upon 137 longbows recovered
Callipers Hundred Years’ War at the battles of Sluys (1340), in the early 1980s from this Tudor warship. Not
Rasp Crécy (1346), Poitiers (1356) and perhaps most all longbows were made of yew, however. Gerald
Bandsaw
1
⁄ in spade drill
2
80”
Drill
Tiller
Scraper
Pencil
Centre line Tips 5/8” wide and ¾ ” deep
Axe 1 ½ ” Wide
Wood saw 20” Taper the last 8” to ½” after
Wedges tillering for the horn nocks

3” 1”
Materials
2.1m (approx.) hazel stave Lower limb Upper limb
PVC glue 1 ¼ ” Thick Arrow pass
Bow string
Cow horn (optional) Dimensions for a medieval style Mean wood war bow
Linseed oil (optional) File in the tillering grooves at 450 for the string. The lower limb must be stiffer than the upper.
Beeswax (optional)
Fig.1 Bow dimensions

24 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

1 Wych elm – a typical size of stave to cut 2 A stave being split with an axe 3 Roughing out a stave

4 Ash bow section and contour gauge 5 Cross-section of a bow 6 Initial tillering of a character stave with long string
before bracing the bow

of Wales refers to the crude unfinished bows used The Longbow’s constitutional parts Splitting the hazel stave
by the Welsh men of Gwent as being made of elm, It has been said that archery is about two sticks You can’t really tell the quality of the stave
which were “astonishingly, stiff, large and strong,” and a string. A longbow is a Self Bow and is made until you have split it. The stave is split and not
and were produced for utilitarian purposes and not from a single piece of wood called a bow stave. cut down the middle. Splitting starts from the
for their pleasing appearance. The bow has an outer flat side called a back, which centre using wedges, and when you split the
The preferred material for making a longbow is held away from you when shooting; whereas wood, it automatically follows the natural rhythm
was yew, but this became rapidly depleted with the belly of a bow is the rounded side, held towards of the grain in the wood. Occasionally a poor stave
serious shortages arising as early on as 1350. This you when shooting. The upper and lower parts of grain twists like a corkscrew if it’s become wind
further led to the use of a variety of other woods the bow are referred to as limbs and the nocks twisted and there’s nothing you can do about this
being employed to craft the longbow, especially are the grooves cut in wood of the bow itself, other than start again. It’s very rare that hazel will
for practice bows, hunting and even for war. or in horn in which the loop of the bowstring fits. actually do that. You want the thickest part to
Roger Ascham’s Taxophilus printed during the be in the centre and the thinnest bits to be at the
reign of Henry VIII was the first book on archery. MAKING YOUR FIRST WARBOW end, so avoid splitting it the wrong way, because
His writing on longbows refers in part to what Fashioned by a master bowyer, from one of if it does run off you’ll end up with a child’s size
he calls ‘mean woods’, which are alternative many indigenous woods, a functional weapon bow. Jeremy always splits his stave on the grass.
or average woods that can also be used in the can be made in around two hours. Jeremy has When you split it you want the majority of the
construction of a longbow: “As for Brazil, elm, spent 17 years making hundreds of warbows knots in the belly of the bow where compression
wych and ash, experience doth prove them to from different woods and still admits it’s an takes place and not on the back of the bow where
be but mean for bows; and so to conclude, yew of ongoing journey of discovery. tension occurs. You keep the two cleanest sides
all other things, is that where of perfect shooting for the back of the bow. The cross-section should
would have a bow made.” Ascham refrains from Selecting the timber be a shallow ‘D’ shape with the sapwood of a flat
giving measurements of bows or arrows on the To buy an elm stave would probably cost you in back. You can split with an axe by hammering it
grounds that individual variations make that the region of £200 and Jeremy recommends those in, but ensure to wear safety goggles to avoid any
impossible, but we know bows were made starting out for the first time to use a material chips that can fly from some of these hard axes.
to the height of individuals or even taller. such as hazel or ash. “Look for something which
is as straight as possible,” he advises. Hazel can Seasoning
Welsh warbows be found in abundance and makes an excellent Once you’ve split the hazel stave down, you need
Wales has always been associated with the choice as it is often coppiced and grows straight to seal the ends up. Do this 75mm from the ends
longbow. Many archers were prominent through up without sending out side shoots and can be with PVA or wax. This stops them from splitting.
the whole of the Hundred Years’ war. Warbow obtained from the average woodland or even the The wood on the outside dries quicker than that
Wales undertakes experimental archaeology in this garden hedge in the autumn and winter months on the inside where the remaining bark forms a
field. It was set up by Jeremy Spencer (Master War when the sap is down. It’s relatively easy to work largely waterproof covering. The inside can be
Bowyer of The Craft Guild of Traditional Bowyers but, like all things, the craft improves with practise quite moist and it’s important not to dry it out
and Fletchers) to bring together like-minded people and won’t cost you the earth if you make a too fast. You need to leave it in a shed or an
who wanted to make and test the capabilities of mistake. Cut a hazel stave 2.1m in length with unheated room for six months before it’s ready
materials used in the construction of traditional a diameter of around 70mm. The finished bow to be turned into a bow. “You’re looking to get
warbows and arrows that were available during would be less than this length; somewhere in moisture down to 10%,” Jeremy tells me, “before
the Medieval and Tudor periods. the region of 1.8-1.9m. you start to rough out.”

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 25

 WOODWORK Medieval longbow

Roughing out wood. You need to work carefully: remember, the bow string is too weak. A modern bow string
At this stage you are reducing the wood down you can always take more wood off but you would be fine to begin with, as Jeremy reminds
to near bow size dimensions. You can do this can’t add it back on! me, but it’s perhaps just as well to undertake
either using a bandsaw or with a side axe (just While tillering, you never pull it down past ‘one experiment’ at a time.
sharpened on one side rather than a sharpened the draw weight you want. Military draw weights
‘V’) – some people even use an angle grinder. would start at 100lbs and some have been made The finish
Basically you calculate the dimensions of the to take up to 160lb draw weight, but remember An additional finish could be achieved by using
bow: you do the widths followed by the tapers. in the Olympics, men today will be shooting a linseed oil or beeswax, but it’s worth getting into
Cut it about 40mm wide and about 30mm deep. 50lb draw weight and for a first time bow this the mindset of those who first made them. This
Note halfway down each limb, the depth tapers would be more than sufficient for your needs. is a utilitarian weapon; something a drover might
and usually drops 1mm in depth every 75mm. fashion from the hedgerow. It’s not designed to
You also need to taper the width of it. That Horn nocks be a piece of furniture hung up and just viewed.
usually tapers about halfway down each limb if With lower draw bows you don’t necessarily need Even the Mary Rose bows had an honest finish
you start from the centreline of each limb. These to put horn nocks on and you can just use grooves with some of the tool marks left on them.
usually taper from the 40mm full width down to filed in the wood to produce a self-nocked bow. When referring to the Mary Rose longbows
15mm at the tips, which is a little bit wider than If you want horn nocks, then trim the horn on the in her book*, Anne Curry states: “Some bows
the actual finished tip when you horn knot it. sides. Drill the horn to the required depth using were roughly formed while many others featured
If the stave has a ‘snakey’ profile (it’s easier a 12⁄ in spade drill and grind it into a cone or a ‘V’ nocks carved from horn or antler for taking the
if it doesn’t), make sure the centre of the bow shape. At this point you can cut a groove in the tip, string.” Function and utility it seemed always
and tips line up. You can check this with a taut either a regular front slot or a more accurate side outweighed aesthetic appeal and what mattered
string. Using a biro pen is best for marking out as slot. Once made you can glue it to the conical tips. always in the past was the effectiveness of the
it doesn’t rub off accidentally, but it’s just as easy bow as a weapon.
to remove as a pencil during the final sanding. Attaching the string All that’s left to do now is to brace your bow. It
If the back is finished, you can remove the “Most people starting out won’t use a hemp won’t be long before you’ve become a toxophilite
bark if you choose. Hazel is unusual, as Jeremy string,” Jeremy informs me. “You could use Irish (a student or lover of archery), but always
informs me you can actually leave the bark on, linen thread to make a string, but avoid anything remember to unbrace the bow once you’ve
the remaining bark being removed with a cabinet that looks bleached.” You want natural colour or finished shooting. ww
scraper. There will be traces of cambium and a
few raised areas where the knotted parts are
best left proud. Avoid cutting through one of
the growth rings – again, the cambium can
be left on to provide good camouflage.

Tillering
Once the bow shape has been achieved it has to
be tillered by being drawn back with a cord and
a pulley to observe the bend of the bow. This is
done to prescribed notches and finally to its full
draw length where further work can take place.
Initially file in the grooves at either end and
fit on a string for initial tillering. Use a slightly
longer string than you would normally use on the
bow, and gradually tiller it down to give roughly
a circular bend that creates a slight ellipse rather
than an arc. Having too much bend in the handle
area leads to hand shock while shooting and 7 Character staves with uneven profile should ‘only come around ‘ to an arc at full draw. Straight staves are
excessive string follow or permanent easier for beginners
deformation. It’s essential that you don’t torture
the wood too much while a smooth ellipse is being
established. “It needs to be more elliptical than
circular; if you haven’t got that nice elliptical curve
then you have to work on certain parts to produce
it,” Jeremy tells me. It’s important to remove wood
with smooth transitions and not to create hinges.
This can be done by marking the stiff areas with a
pencil and then using a scraper to remove excess

FURTHER INFORMATION
The Welsh Longbow – Warbow Wales
www.warbowwales.com

The Mary Rose Trust

www.maryrose.org

*Anne Curry, Agincourt 1415, The Archers’ Tale 8 The stages of horn nock production (from left
(Tempus Publishing, 2008) to right) – the cut off tip drilled with a cone,
worked down, and awaiting polishing and grooves 9 A 130lb elm bow being drawn

26 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

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 WOODWORK The Collector

“Brace yourself, this is going to be a bit boring”

Shepherds’ Compleat Early Nineteenth Century Woodworker, 1981, 2001

Jennings and Irwin sets Irwin bits

Gary Cook gives us is best for cabinetmaking and suchlike and Irwins
for more basic jobs, such as removing waste from
a glimpse into his large mortises and framing. I’ve found that if you
impressive collection of are slow and careful, the holes are very similar, only
bit sets and also advises the speed of cut differs slightly. With a properly
sharp auger, you shouldn’t need to press down
on how best to go about hard on your brace, as the auger should screw
sharpening them into the wood. You may also need an auger file Jennings bits

T
to keep the ‘spurs’ sharp on the bits and it’s worth
he basic idea of the auger bit relies on reading up on sharpening techniques, too.
the idea from Archimedes in 250 B.C
of the ‘water screw’, which when in Sharpening spurs & augers
action, could lift water uphill. The most important thing is that when you are
Some time around the 1770s a gentleman sharpening, you mustn’t remove material from
by the name of Cook (no relation), developed the outside of the bit. Instead, file the same angles
the twist drill idea, with a simple wooden ‘T’ that are on the insides of the spurs or wings. You
handle being added to a metal auger that could can even improve the lead screw if you are careful
drill straight, ejecting the shavings as it went. with a needle file. Hole drilled using a Jennings bit
Further developments, notably by Gedge and The sharp spurs on the edge of the auger cut
L’ Hommideau, led to a patent by Russell Jennings the fibres of the wood, making a very clean hole, to Russell Jennings’ improvement had the
for a bit pattern in 1855, which became the with the main bevel of the blade lifting the wood spurs formed on the topside towards the shank.
industry standard. out. It depends on the maker, but some bits only If you’re trying to buy a decent vintage set
have one spur. of Jennings bits, they can usually be found in
Irwin & Jennings sets Russell Jennings made the more common a three-tiered box (patented in 1890) and it is
Two bit sets I’ve used for my jobs in conjunction ‘100’ bit set, (pictured), but also made a ‘101’ worth searching for these as a boxed set, as
with a basic Stanley brace are an Irwin set and set, which was more like the Irwins with a coarse full sets are becoming rarer. Irwin bits are easier
a Russell Jennings set (see main photo). The single thread point and again, better for softwood. to source, being more modern, but both are
Jennings bits are generally thought of as better The Irwin bits pictured, with single flute around worth buying. Bits are sized in 11⁄ 6 increments,
for hardwoods, with a finer, double-threaded lead a solid core called the Irwin Pattern, appears as the ‘16’ being one inch.
screw, while the Irwins have a coarser single lead early as 1884. These are the twist bits that have
thread and are therefore suited for softer, gummier spurs projecting down in the same direction as Brace bits
wood. Some people generalise by saying Jennings the centre spur or screw. Earlier versions prior Russell Jennings bits were made in Deep River,
Chester (US) until 1960, then Connecticut, before
being sold to Stanley in 1944. Irwin Tools has
made brace bits for over a century and they
still sell auger bits for braces.
I also buy interesting sets of brace bits with
uncommon styles, as can be seen in the green
felt roll opposite. There are some spoon bits, gimlet
bits, gouge bits, spade bits and many other types
in this mix. Invariably they are designed for special
Jennings with Stanley brace An interesting collection of brace bits with use. Some are quite delicate, but they are all
uncommon styles interesting to own. ww

28 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

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 POSTBAG In your own write...

Drop us a line on paper or via screen and keyboard to add your voice to the woodworking crowd; you
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Edenbridge, Kent TN8 6HF or send an email to editor.ww@mytimemedia.com

STAR LETTER
The view from Ranald’s
workshop – mountain
not visible in rain!

Woodworking in the wild

Hi Mark, the clouds on some days; and the clouds mean moisture. Beside humidity,
Over the years I have often pondered on the various problems that it comes with insects and wildlife of all descriptions. Apart from the many
woodworkers face in their efforts to ‘make something’. Having discussed species of birds, the wildlife includes echidnas, kangaroos, wallabies,
this subject with many other wood and metalworkers, I discovered that reptiles (such as many species of goanna, lizards, and snakes), frogs,
I’m not alone. It’s a bit like not enough cramps or not enough storage; dingos, bandicoots, antechinus, etc. and ferals like foxes, wild dogs, toads,
it seems that many have thought long on this subject. field mice, the odd cat, native and introduced rats, with Rattus rattus being
While in snowy areas the roofs have a high pitch, here in outback the worst. Because of this pest, the coastal taipan has evolved in just two
Queensland the verandahs protect against the harsh sun and down-pipes centuries and knows not to grab this villain because if bitten by it, the snake
direct every possible rain drop to a holding facility: in some areas a itself will also die. The snake has learned to strike and retreat many times
basement ’shop is the preference and/or the only possibility. and is highly toxic (second or third in the world – debate still ongoing).
Most fauna aren’t a concern but we do need to adjust to our
Flora & fauna environment. Our common mud wasp is a real nuisance: it kills spiders and
Recently I was sitting at a desk when cyclone Debbie was cruising down stores the dead in its cocoon style home (around 3 × 1cm) for the young
the Queensland coastline wreaking destruction in her path and causing to eat at birth. Just what has this to do with us ‘woodies’? Dressed and/or
flooding far and wide. She was some 1,000 kilometres away from me: sanded wood can’t be stored as these tenacious insects land and search
the rain was heavy but nice and nothing new for Queensland. As I sat and out tiny crevices, gaps, dados, slots, and the like in which to hide their
looked out the window, protected by a cantilevered roof, and enjoying the young’s home. The ‘mud’ is so gluey it penetrates even very hard Australian
bird calls, I once again pondered the associated global concerns with wood- hardwoods resulting in wasted time, effort and money. Other mud wasps
working. Earlier I had been to my workshop and battened down the hatches build homes in smaller places like air hose fittings so all air tools need to
as best as possible, and could almost view the surface rust growing on my be stored in a container or plugged with (as I do) a cork with a reasonably
table saw despite its ‘machine cover’ (metal sheds are cheap and strong tight fit or have a small grinding wheel (as for a Dremel or a drill) inserted
but condensation therein is a reality). I had done all I could, so locked into the air fitting. Even smaller wasps (thankfully less common) will build
up the shed to withstand the possible ensuing battering. I myself have nests in and block air vents in power tools so such tools need to be stored
experienced and witnessed over 300mm of rain in a few hours, on a few in insect-proof containers – pretty hard even with a plastic bag for table
occasions, sometimes coupled with gale force winds and bullet-like rain. routers, etc.
I thought about tornados, tsunami and tidal waves, hail storms,
southerly busters, malaria, lymes disease, lions, moose, bears, snow Encounter with a taipan
and sleet, flooding, crocodiles, European wasps, and terrorists, etc. When it comes to the workshop, if a mouse can enter a hole, so can a
People are tenacious and resilient, and survivors. snake, and as large as a python. After storms and flooding back in 2003,
But what does this all mean in the ‘shop or as we call it ‘The Shed’? sometimes I would enter my shed and the hairs would stand up on the
Today’s home is in the Noosa hinterland and we live with our head in back of my neck – instinct or whatever you may call it – so I would carefully

30 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 In your own write... MAILBOX

place down anything I was holding and leave

the shed in an orderly fashion. This scenario only
happened every week or so, then after a few
months had passed I was on my way to the shed
when I noticed a very large Joe Blake scurrying
along the side of the 9m shed. It stopped at the
other end and rose up to eyeball me as I was
doing the same to it. It was taller than me and
half was still on the ground! Studying it, I noticed
some pale orange flecking on its belly. I had seen
taipans before but was under the assumption
they only grew to 3m and this grand-daddy
looked somewhat longer. I rang the ‘Snakeman’
who asked me to describe the head and body
as well as the behaviour of the reptile. After
explaining the long head shape, the eyebrows,
the flecks, the timidness together with the ‘stop
and check me out’ manner, and the lightning
speed, he exclaimed “Yeah! THAT IS a coastal
taipan.” “What can you do about him?” I asked
as “he has made his home here.” The instructions
were clear – I had to corner the taipan and then
call the guy so he could catch it. “Bu**er that
for a game of soldiers” as the saying goes: there
was no way I was going to try to corner a super Not the taipan, but not welcome nonetheless!
venomous snake that could potentially strike a
distance of around 6m (twice its length). I had been lucky to not be bitten on his body moved! Then, I heard the scales moving over the ribs of the
as a teen while trying to clobber a very long nonvenomous snake. Besides, boat: there was only one thing I had ever heard that sounded like that and
I had read that the taipan species was the only snake that could bite through it was big and too fast for a python. We had brought ‘old mate’ with us.
the steel cap of a boot: their fangs are like ceramics. The next day just my teenage son Jack returned with Ranger and myself.
I used to store seldom used goods (like rural plumbing gear) in open Jack wanted to learn to drive the boat as the fish weren’t biting. ‘BANG,
boxes high in the shed. One day I lifted a box to gain access to the contents BONK, BANG’ went the tinny over the waves and that was the last we
only to witness a curious head pop out over the top: I gently replaced the saw of the taipan – guess he didn’t think the banging boat was such a
box to see this particular transient resident leave across the shelving, good place to live and stayed behind at the beachside.
scraping its scales over sheet aluminium and metal. Overhead storage is Kind regards, Ranald Millar
now done in closed boxes or left in full view (from a distance with a ladder
or step). Some years later, we went away on holiday with our boat, a tinny Wow, thanks for that, Ranald, and we think we have a bit of trouble with
with a false floor. Upon launching, I found the motor wouldn’t start so the odd mouse and spider – at least they’re not deadly! It kind of puts things
the family enjoyed the beach-front while the Tenterfield terrier sat quietly in a different light for the UK woodworker (but I don’t expect it’ll stop us moaning
in the boat watching me while I unscrewed the fuel line from over the about the weather). Does anyone else have any
gunwale. In the peaceful silence, I noticed Ranger the dog twist his head tales of woodworking in the wild? If so, do get in
sideways, as I had seen him do when stalking snakes, and not another hair touch and share your story.

Uses for broken bandsaw blades

Dear Editor,
I have used lengths of old bandsaw blades as replacements for
hacksaw blades for use on wood. Skip-tooth blades are no use as
one cannot get enough teeth onto the workpiece to start sawing.
The appropriate length can be cut using good tinsnips or a slitting
disc on an angle grinder. To make holes, for a short length of panel
pin to retain the blade in the hacksaw, just heat the end in a flame
to red heat and quickly, using a needle-nosed punch, drive a suitable
diameter hole. For larger holes, punch the hole from both sides.
The hole can be flattened by gentle hammering on a suitably hard
surface, and you will still be left with long lengths of blade.
Best wishes, Bob Gowland Examples of junior hacksaw blades

Thanks Bob, of things, isn’t it? I know that a lot of us have been recycling for years, since before
I would imagine one broken bandsaw blade will make quite a few shorter blades we knew what the word meant.
to go into a hacksaw frame. It’s always very pleasing to get some more use out All the best, Mark

GET IN TOUCH!
Don’t forget, we’re always keen to see your photos, so please don’t hesitate to send them in if you’ve snapped something of interest recently.
Email me on the usual address: editor.ww@mytimemedia.com
Please note that all digital photos need to be greater than 1MB in size to guarantee sufficiently good reproduction for the printed page

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 31

WOODWORK Display unit for a child’s toy collection

TOYS ON DISPLAY

32 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

Ian Wilkie’s design for a display unit
to show off a child’s toy collection is an
approachable and fun-to-make project

T
here are lots of appealing small toys for children to collect and
it seems a shame to consign them to a plastic container or to
toss them into the toy box. In this article my idea is to display them
attractively and hopefully it will encourage small children to take
more care arranging them and putting their treasures back after play, but
perhaps I’m being too optimistic! My little great-grandson has already acquired MATERIALS REQUIRED
plenty of toys and it was with him in mind that I decided on this project. Like • 3 sheets of 500 × 500 × 3mm-thick birch plywood – I did substitute
many young families, he lives in a rented house and this means screwing a set one sheet of 3mm MDF for the back
of shelves to the wall is discouraged by the landlord. The house is relatively • 8 pieces of 12 × 15 × 500mm lengths of stripwood – I used carefully
small and keeping toys stored and organised is always a challenge for a parent. selected proprietary softwood to the nearest dimensions from a DIY store
This little unit is designed to stand on the floor with its back to the wall and it • PVA quick-drying glue
should be stable enough not to tip forward and spill its contents. This is also • Satin varnish
the correct height for young children that are playing at floor level. I have made • 6 × small screws
it in birch plywood, which is light in weight. The example shown is intended
for an ever-growing collection of model wild animals that my wife was unable
to resist! I did not want to make a zoo, so this unit seemed a good idea and we
designed some back friezes to suggest different habitats. These joint projects DESIGN CRITERIA
are pleasant to do, and of course, if the child is older they can be involved as • Suitable for 3+ years
well, especially in designing the backcloth. The heights between the shelves • Portable
are chosen to suit the collection, with the giraffe being the tallest animal. • Stable
• Splinter-free
PROXXON MACHINES USED IN THIS ARTICLE • Attractive
Proxxon mill/drill system (BFB2000) • Strong
and compound table (KT150) • Versatile
This is the system I use for small routing projects (photo 1). I will not pretend
it is a cheap option because it is not, but over the years it has been very
useful indeed and I do not regret buying it. I like to use an overhead router
wherever possible so that I can see what I am doing. The guard has been
removed for photographic purposes.
This machine is very precise and the compound table ensures accuracy
when setting up the work. The power unit has to be purchased separately,
but I did economise here and the 43mm collar takes the Hegner router I am
using in this project and it will also take a Trend T4 router, which at £74 is
a good option. The router cutters I use are from the Trend Craft range
with 14⁄ in diameter shanks. I made a false table from an offcut of Formica
laminate with an adjustable fence (photo 2).

Proxxon FET table saw

The Proxxon FET table saw is extremely useful for cutting small pieces
of wood accurately (photo 3). It comes with a decent TCT blade and the
results are excellent. The saw is not heavy and so it is easy to store away
in a cupboard when not in use. This is a small saw designed for toys, models,
etc. and should be used within its capacity. The depth of cut is 1-21mm.

Fig.1 Toy display unit Fig.2 Toy display unit – sides

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 33

 WOODWORK Display unit for a child’s toy collection

2 I made a false table from an offcut of Formica laminate with an adjustable fence

1 The Proxxon mill/drill system (BFB2000) and compound table (KT150) 3 The Proxxon FET table saw is extremely useful
are ideal for small routing projects for cutting small pieces of wood accurately

MAKING THE TOY DISPLAY UNIT

1 It is worth taking the trouble to orbitally sand both 2 Use Fig.1 and mark out the sides, top and bottom, 3 Rout 3 × 1.5mm deep rebates along the top,
sides of the plywood sheet first, so that you have a shelves and back on the plywood sheets. Cut out the bottom and back edges of the two sides and along
very smooth surface to start with pieces with a fine-tooth saw but leave the back panel the back and sides of the top and bottom pieces.
at this stage so that it can be cut exactly to fit at the Using a router to form a rebate produces a neat,
final stage where slight adjustments may need to accurate joint but it is not essential and if you don’t
be made have a router, then you can use stripwood to form
the rebates

34 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

4 Cut the stripwood into 12 × 15mm sections 5 Mark the positions on the side pieces where the 6 Glue the stripwood to the plywood and hold
and then into the lengths as shown in Fig.2 stripwood is to be glued. Where you place the two down with weights while the glue cures. Wudcare
centre shelves will be determined by the toys that super-fast PVA grabs in five minutes, provides a
are to be displayed. My spacing suits the heights of strong bond after 15 minutes and is ideal for this
the animals and the tallest is the giraffe at 170mm. project. I did not want to use any metal fixings
If you alter the spacing, then the dimensions of the except the screws for the back panel
shelf will also need to be adjusted

7 The two sides should now match 8 Glue the sides to the bottom piece and then proceed 9 Glue the shelves to the shelf supports at the back
to cramp up and sides and insert the top panel into the rebate.
Plenty of cramps are useful as always! Cut stripwood
to fit the front of each shelf and glue to the top
surface to form a ledge

10 Apply at least two coats of clear satin varnish, 11 Measure the back panel accurately, cut slightly
rubbing down between coats oversize and plane or sand to fit into the rebates.
I used 3mm MDF here – the plan was to cover
one side with card and to paint the other side

12 Use the back panel as a template and cut a sheet of thin card to decorate with your design. My shelves 13 The back panel is finally screwed into position
show the habitat for each group of animals: ice and snow, jungle, and finally African grasslands. The card then with six small short screws. Make sure the screw
fits into the rebate tips do not protrude

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 35

 WOODWORK Display unit for a child’s toy collection

14 In go the animals, put the tiger into the jungle, and the job is done! ww

36 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

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U
sing his problem solving and design
skills, Ian Knight, a software developer
and carpenter, has managed to
successfully link these two paths together.
He started 50 years ago in his living room with hand
tools and a router, and from there he purchased a
workshop in Shoreditch, which in the last 10 years he has
converted into somewhere he can live and work: “At
this point my FELDER story started,” commented Ian.
Having come across the FELDER GROUP at a
woodworking exhibition, Ian knew he had found the
perfect machine to suit his needs: a FELDER CF 741.
“I saw the combination machine at the show and I
remember walking out of the building thinking, ‘one day
I’m going to have one of those!’ Having just converted
my workshop gave me the ideal opportunity to buy one,
so I made a visit to the showroom and came away with
one.” Ian goes on to say: “I’m used to working with big
panels, and I needed something that could handle those in my smaller workshop. I was looking
for a combination machine that was quality and I knew from what I’d seen at the exhibition,
and confirmed when I went to FELDER’s showroom, that it would be able to handle anything
I could throw at it, and that has proved to be the case.”
Since then Ian has gone on to buy a FB 510 bandsaw and FAT 300 work table, all from
the FELDER range. Ian says: “I bought the bandsaw because I needed something that had
a thin curve and also a nice depth of cut. The FAT 300 solves so many problems for me: it has
a rise and fall table and it allows me to use large panels on all of the machines in my workshop.”
Summing up his experience with FELDER, Ian said: “I don’t believe in compromising; I want
to be able to realise anything I might dream up to do and because of the machines from FELDER,
I have never had a situation where I have not been able to produce what I actually want to
produce. Not compromising was the main thing and now I have something that is a joy to use!”
See how a range of machines from FELDER can benefit your workshop at www.felder-group.
co.uk or call 01908 635 000 for more information. You can watch Ian’s full testimonial on
YouTube – search for FELDER GROUP UK TV.
WOODWORK Moravian stool

Bringing the Moravian Stool

into the 21st century
Jasmine Craven-Huffer shares the
story of how she went about updating
and modernising a 500-year-old design

T
he Moravians were (and still are) a protestant Christian group who broke from the
Catholic Church in the 15th century. Over the coming years, the movement spread
from its birthplace in Bohemia right across Europe and into North America. With
a philosophy of simplicity and service, their sole furniture legacy is the Moravian
stool, a deceptively plain design that has become almost lost in history. The original stool
featured one large wooden plank for the seat, two sliding dovetail rails, which ran square
to the seat’s grain and legs, piercing both the seat and the rails, with a wedged tenon to

Stepping up to
design quality

40 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 1 The early softwood prototypes

hold the entire stool together. Due to the wide

seat being fixed by the tenoned legs, the seat plank 2 Developing the early tryout 3 Experimenting to find optimum ergonomic comfort
often developed a split but remained just as strong.
To any modern woodworker, the direction of the
grain should always be understood and designed
into a piece. On the face of it, the Moravian design
appears to completely contradict the principles
of woodworking, yet the stool is still incredibly
sturdy and will continue to grow stronger with
age. As such, the original antique pieces with a
single, split plank are a prized find for collectors.
As time progressed, the stools began to
appear with a new seat. This used two narrower
pieces of wood in place of one wide one while
the sliding dovetail rail and legs, which pierced 4 The CNC router at work on the dovetail grooves 5 Selecting timber from the walnut department
both parts, remained the same. Legs now turned at the timber yard
on lathes took the place of the octagonal section,
which had to be planed to shape. The design still lost and I hope to continue its 500-year-old chunky look; however, removing too much
featured the sliding dovetails and the legs and history and bring it into the context of the material in the wrong place could jeopardise
rail arrangement, meaning the more modern 21st century, using the design as a platform the strength, particularly that of the joints for
design (around the 18th century) was still just to showcase my own beliefs in functional a long bench. This was to be my next prototype
as robust as the Moravians’ original design and responsible design. as it was an extreme of the design and I needed
from earlier times. to be certain the thinner seat plank could hold
During World War II, the design was utilised Design development the weight of people without requiring extra
by the German occupying army in Czechoslovakia I made the first prototype replica, which exposed legs. I also wanted to try to correct the processes
where many Moravians still lived. The stool was a few flaws in my manufacturing techniques. that had gone wrong previously, to make sure
modified and put back into production for German Having access to a CNC router meant I could use the final exhibition prototype would be a finished
barracks due to it being lightweight, easily this to cut accurate and identical dovetail grooves design ready for production.
repairable and quick to manufacture. However, for the leg rails, but it soon became apparent that Having addressed the issues that arose
due to the speed needed to produce these stools, the key issue here was breakage from where the during the making of my original prototype,
changes were made to the design, which came at dovetail router cutter had exited the seat planks. I was confident that I had found the most
the expense of its strength. The sliding dovetails I felt that these planks would need to be wider, efficient way of manufacturing my design
were no longer cut into the seat plank, instead so that they could be trimmed after the routing in the workshop setting. I made the relevant
rails with the legs tenoned in place were simply process, thus cutting away any splintered edges. changes to my technical drawings, and together
nailed to two planks. I then began to assess what I did and didn’t like with new photos, I was ready to discuss my
Since this period, the design has almost been about the replica. This lay mostly with its rather design with industry professionals for feedback.

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 41

 WOODWORK Moravian stool

6 Developing the tapered legs with the aid of 7 One of the first turned legs 8 Tidying the sawn bevels on the overhand planer
jig-marks and turning callipers (Wadkin refurb)

9 Breakout from the CNC router... 10 ... to be removed later on the table saw

considered. My two hardwoods do not come forest. This means the price per board will be
from trees which are listed as endangered or significantly cheaper, although the manufacturer
under threat, something it was easy to check will no longer be able to check the planks for
on the Convention on International Trade of problems before purchase. This often means
Endangered Species database. manufacturers of furniture will usually buy
With this decision made, I could begin sourcing planks that have been graded, something
the wood. It is important to balance both the they feel is worthwhile to minimise material
quality of the boards with price and consideration wastage and the associated costs.
of sustainability. A customer like myself,
Material sourcing purchasing only a small quantity of timber, will Manufacturing the legs
Wanting a contrast in colour, I decided to use always have to pay more than a big company. To produce the legs with an even taper that
a combination of ash and walnut for the final To purchase material for larger scale production, would be identical for all the legs, I made a jig
design. For all the wood I considered it crucial manufacturers usually order the wood in large with markers at every 50mm. Using these markers,
for me, as a responsible designer, to ensure it quantities from trade suppliers or even purchase I would set my callipers to the width signified at
comes from sustainably managed forests where hectares of forest, which will be felled and each marker. I would then carefully remove the
both social and environmental sustainability is processed by the company managing the material on the corresponding marked point on
the leg until it allowed the callipers to pass through.
I repeated this for each of the marker points. I then
removed the material between the markers to
form the taper. The entire shape was then sanded
smooth with the lathe turning. To achieve a finer
finish, I then sanded in the direction of the grain
down the leg. To manufacture the smaller legs
for the foot stool, I used the same process but
made a new smaller jig to achieve the taper.
The tenons needed cutting along the centre
so that they could be wedged tightly in place.
Again, I made a jig which allowed me to quickly
and accurately make the cuts using the bandsaw.

Manufacturing the rails

While cutting the wood that was to be shaped
into the legs, I also cut the oversized lengths for
the seats of both stools and the bench. This would
allow the tension to be released so the wood could
move before I planed and thicknessed it square.

42 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

11 Jig to hold the dovetail profile rails... 12 ... while they are shaped on the bandsaw 13 Information block lasered onto the underside of
a seat component

14 Cramping the job together, note various blocks 15 Sawing the ends of the rails flush with the edges 16 Drilling the circular mortises for the legs on the
and spacers of the seat long bench

Having been left for a week, I could then begin I always design furniture which will be treasured The parts had excess on the width, to allow for
processing them. I started with the walnut in order to try and change the paradigm of breakage during routing. There was also 40mm
dovetail profiled rails. The boards I had bought unsustainable throwaway consumption, on either end where I had countersunk 4mm holes
would make two rails from the width. This meant so that as a designer, I can make my steps so the planks could be screwed to the bed of the
the board needed cutting in half along the length. towards the industry becoming more sustainable. CNC. Much of this waste material would not be
I then planed and thicknessed these to the final To permanently etch this detail, I used a laser necessary on an industrial scale, as the CNC bed
thickness. To achieve the angle, I cut the length cutter. If this was to be scaled up, a hot stamp is likely to be larger and have a more adaptable
along the table saw with the blade set at an angle. would be designed to etch the information into pneumatic bed designed for holding smaller parts
I then planed this flat, removing any saw marks the parts much quicker and with cheaper secure. Once the groove had been cut with the
using the planer. During my last prototype, I had machining costs. CNC router, I removed the excess on the table saw.
used the hand plane, which had distorted the
angle, making the rails fit loose. I kept a close Manufacturing the seat Seat sub-assembly
eye on the angle throughout this process to make I then moved on to manufacturing the final part: The parts were now ready to be assembled.
sure it remained accurate. This process would be the seats. I planed and thicknessed these square, Using spacers between the planks and packing
much easier on a larger scale of manufacture as having left the wood to relax while I processed at either side, I used sash clamps to gradually
the four-way industrial planers can accurately the other parts. push the dovetails into place. This was much
achieve the shape with just one setup.
With the lengths shaped to the dovetail profile,
I cut them into the shorter lengths for the rails,
keeping 10mm excess so they could be cut flush
when assembled with the seat. For the final
shaping of the rails, I designed a jig, which would
hold the pieces square. I also made some simpler
jigs to help me mark out the seven rails accurately
so they were identical. This also helped to speed
up the process.
Again, in industry the rails could be shaped
in several ways, all of which would not require
any marking out, which was a time-consuming
process, even with the help of the jigs.
Once shaped, a rail from each piece of furniture
needed to be etched with the information of its
manufacture and maintenance. I include this
information in all my work to help build
sentimental attachment and allow even a novice
to effectively care for and restore their piece.

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 43

 WOODWORK Moravian stool

17 Sawing the leg tenon ends in a cradle jig 18 Aligning the wedges with a steel straightedge

more controlled than using a mallet, and meant cut when shaping the dovetails, for efficient a large scale of manufacture; however, there
the walnut was not at risk of splitting. As the rails use of the wood. This process would likely would be much less time spent using the orbital
needed to stick out of the plank by 5mm at either be done by hand even on a larger scale. sander as the seat and rails would have been
side so they could be cut flush, I cut a notch in Once the PVA was dry, the excess was sanded smooth before assembly, removing the
the packing so the rail could be pushed out of removed using the flush saw before being marks from the thicknesser and planer using a
the other side of the plank. sanded smooth using the orbital sander. drum sander. Once assembled, any small marks
Due to the tight, accurate fit, no glue was Now that the seat was flat, the legs could be from assembly and glue would be sanded off
needed to hold the piece in place; this reduces cut to length. I had made a jig, which allowed the using an orbital sander and hand-finished using
costs further and also reduces the product’s legs to be cut to the exact length with the correct sanding blocks.
environmental impact, should it be produced angle using the flush saw. This meant no complex The furniture was now ready for finishing. I had
on a larger scale. This process would likely be marking out and cutting, making the job more tested the offcuts to check that using clear matt
performed with a jig set up and pneumatic clamps, efficient. This process would be much simpler in Poly-solid oil would give me the finish I desired.
which would slowly guide the rails through the industry: manufacturers have saws and sanders I used this finish as it’s very hard-wearing and low
parts without the need for laborious clamping. rigged to flat beds, which square off the legs in maintenance. To refinish you can simply apply an
With the rails fitted in place, I clamped a piece seconds without the need for setting up each extra coat without cutting back, which is useful if
of wood flush to the seat plank to help guide the leg with the jig and labour intensive sawing. the person responsible for maintaining the piece
flush saw so it did not damage the ash. Using has limited experience.
sanding blocks, I sanded the rails flush to the Finishing I applied the finish using foam brushes.
seat. Excess rail was removed using a flush saw The furniture was then ready for finishing. This gave me control so that I could apply three
and then cut to length. The holes were then drilled I started by hand-sanding the small amounts thin layers. The process was time consuming,
ready for the seat to be assembled with the legs. of excess glue around the legs, then used the as I was constantly checking for drips. As I was
orbital sander, working from 60 to 220 grit on applying the finish by hand, I could only coat a
Final assembly the seats, to achieve a touchable, smooth finish. portion of the product at one time. It also takes
The legs were now ready to be fitted. I fixed I used the air pressure gun to remove the dust six hours to dry between coats. In industry, the
these in place and then used a steel rule to line that was trapped in the etching and around finish would be sprayed onto the surface to give
up the slots and the wedges. Using a mallet, the legs; this meant the surface was clean and an even application, which would coat the piece
I carefully tapped the walnut wedges through dust-free, ready for a finish to be applied to the of furniture entirely, and would then be heated
the split. The wedges were made from the waste surface. This process would be similar even on to cure the finish quickly between coats. ww

FURTHER INFORMATION
To find out more about Jasmine and her work,
see www.jasminedesigns.info. You can also
follow her on Instagram – search for
‘jasmine.designs’

19 Trimming the tenon ends 20 The leg-levelling jig; just add flush saw 21 My preferred finish for the project

44 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

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 WOODWORK Workshop Q&A

Me and my workshop
Colin Simpson
Resident woodturner
Colin Simpson gives us a
glimpse inside his workshop
and shares some of his
top tips and techniques

1. What is it – and where is it?

It’s a block and stone-built garage and what was
originally built as two stables and a tack room.
Quite long and narrow. Adjacent to my house.
It’s the main reason we bought the house!

2. What’s the best thing about it?

I don’t have to commute!

3. And what’s the worst?

It gets mightily cold in the winter.
Every summer I say I must insulate it.

4. How important is it to you?

Colin’s well-equipped wo
I work from it nearly every day, including rkshop houses three lath
built as two stables and es and was originally
weekends. Sometimes for business a tack room
purposes, other times just to potter.

5. What do you make in it?

I make mainly turned pieces on one of my 10. What’s the best thing you’ve
three lathes, but also general woodworking ever made?
and renovation work. I have made thousands of turned bowls, many
of which I am proud of but one sticks in my mind 13. If you won the lottery, what
6. What is your favourite workshop tip? – a rippled ash salad bowl. Admittedly, it was would you buy for your workshop?
Enjoy what you do and make any mistakes a a stunner, but it was the customer’s delighted I would probably replace my combination machine
‘design opportunity’. reaction to it that makes it memorable. with standalone machines – a good table saw,
planer, thicknesser and spindle moulder. My
7. What’s your best piece of kit? 11. And what’s the worst? Record Power combination machine is great,
My VB36 lathe – it’s such a great workhorse. Far too many to choose from. When I started but it can be frustrating changing modes. I could
woodturning I made lots of things that I was also afford a bigger workshop to house these
8. If your workshop caught fire, happy with and gave away to friends and new machines! ww
what one thing would you rescue? relations. When I see some of them now I
Wow, a difficult one. I couldn’t remove the cringe at the poor shape and form, finish, etc.
machinery so it would have to be my father’s I am sure other woodturners can relate to this!
Norris plane. NEXT MONTH
12. What’s the best lesson In the next issue, we step inside the workshop
9. What’s your biggest workshop you’ve learned? of Linda Kemp – a furniture restorer from
mistake? Don’t spend ages trying to ‘save’ a beautiful London. She is an experienced conservator/
Like so many people, there are quite a few to piece of spalted beech that has gone too far. restorer offering professional and reliable
choose from. My most expensive mistake was I have spent a fortune on wood hardener and furniture restoration and object conservation
buying English oak planks to make ledged and CA adhesive to pour onto some spalted wood and services for private and heritage clients.
braced internal doors only to find the wood have never achieved a satisfactory finish. Besides We’d love to hear about your workshops
warped so much as it acclimatised; I couldn’t which it takes twice as long, costs more in treating too, so do send in a photo of your beloved
get the lengths I needed. That was eight years it, and still doesn’t look good. My advice would be workspace and feel free to share a few words
ago and I’ve still got lots left. I continue to make to cut your losses and use the piece to start your - we look forward to hearing from you
much smaller things from it. wood burner.

46 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

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 ARCHIVE Routing

Route to routing:
Early days for the must-have power tool
This excerpt from The Woodworker of May 1968 details a lengthy review of the Stanley
H264, which, nearly 50 years ago, was priced at the princely sum of almost £40

I
would hazard a guess that, after a drill
and possibly a jigsaw, the next tool the
vast majority of woodworkers will purchase
is a router. Bringing with it a certain air of
mystery (I’ve been asked countless times ‘what
can I use it for?’, cue lengthy reply), the router takes
versatility to its limits and is the beating, spinning
heart of many a small workshop. Although invented
100 years ago, and developed into the plunge
format by Elu in the 1950s, it wasn’t until the
1960s that the router really began to take off.

The Stanley H264

In this lengthy review
from The Woodworker
of May 1968, the
virtues – largely
self-evident – of this
massively popular
power tool are noted
and discussed. Despite
being a fixed-base machine, the Stanley H264
would really have opened up new worlds of
working wood for the lucky purchaser back then.
It didn’t come cheap, though; 50 years ago nearly
£40 was a lot of money for anyone. Time has
passed and now this sort of machine has a
different value, and I have to say that, on reading
the review I quite fancied one myself, but with
prices starting at about £100 for battered looking
examples on eBay, I think I’ll make do with my
usual kit.
So, the next question is, does anyone reading
this still have one? Or better yet, are you still using
it? I was lucky enough to visit an ad hoc hand tool
museum the other day (more on this in a later
issue), but are there any power tool equivalents?
Occasionally one sees a vintage model here and
there at the company showroom of a big name
manufacturer, but I’ve yet to see a roomful of
classics. Elu MOF 96, anyone?

DO GET IN TOUCH
If any readers have memories and photos of things they or their forebears made from
The Woodworker, please get in touch as we’d love to see them. Just email me on the usual
address: editor.ww@mytimemedia.com and we’ll get them in the mag

48 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

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WOODWORK Sophie’s workshop

A workshop for Sophie

Dennis Knight, with the help of his granddaughter,
Sophie, customises a ready-made shed and sets
about building a workshop inside that will be
suitable for a budding young woodworker

‘My very own workshop!’

H
aving taken my granddaughter 6’ × 4’ shed. Perhaps it would prove to be a bit and the whole thing was given two coats of
Sophie to many of B&Q’s ‘Kids Can small further down the line but, if her interest polyurethane varnish. So, she had somewhere
Do It’ woodworking classes (photo 1), didn’t wane, we could always go for something to work in and something to work on, but now
which she greatly enjoyed, it came larger later when she would at least have a record I had to think of how she could dimension timber
as no surprise when she said: “I’d like a workshop of productivity to help in our re-negotiation! efficiently with minimal risk to her safety.
like yours, Granddad; can you make me one?” The main photo shows Sophie proudly standing
Well, how could I ignore a request like that? On outside her brand-new shed. Her mum bought I saw the light
a side note, sadly, the B&Q classes for children, her the flower containers (introducing a ’girly’ Having considered all options I settled on a mitre
launched in 2011, are now defunct but were aspect to the project) and we attached those frame saw (photo 3), which, when fixed rigidly
held in 50 of their stores. Over 21,000 children and the bird feeder, which was one of her first to the bench provided a safe, reliable and efficient
between 7-11 attended them with, interestingly, projects at ‘Kids Can Do It’. But, it was still only method for Sophie to cut both battens and narrow
almost double the amount of girls than boys. a shed and I now had to think about how I was pieces of ply, etc. It has limitations in terms of
I explained that I would first have to talk to going to make it into a workshop. the thickness and width of timber that it can
her parents, my daughter Clair and son-in-law cope with but, again, we can look at something
Simon, to ask if I could build a shed in their back Small is good more substantial as Sophie’s skills increase.
garden solely for her use. They readily agreed, With space at a premium and Sophie’s relatively I had in fact already cut up a sheet of 6mm
with a proviso that it shouldn’t be too big and, small stature, a low bench with a fairly small ply into small random size pieces (see background
even better, insisted on paying for a ready-made surface area was called for; this is shown in photo in photo 3), but making sure that one dimension
shed, leaving me with only the inside to fit out. 2. Note: the toolbox in the background is another on each piece was replicated at least four times
A good result all round! of her KCDI projects. The bench is 810mm in on other pieces so that simple boxes could be
length × 430mm wide × 760mm high. The top made with little trouble, thus reinforcing
First things first is 12mm ply, fully supported with sturdy cross confidence in constructing.
Sophie had expressed an interest in making battens so that any heavy-duty nailing will be Kitting out the rest of the workshop was the final
small items such as those we made at the well supported! The useful undershelf is 6mm job before Sophie could get to work. Although she
classes and in view of that and the promise ply and the legs are 50 × 50mm PAR. It was already had a small tool collection, some additional
I’d made to keep it small, we decided on a screwed firmly to the shed uprights and floor items were required. A cheap ‘workmate’ type

50 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 1 The joy of making is expressed in Sophie’s smile

2 The scaled-down workbench

bench gave her the means to hold pieces securely

while also providing extra work surface. Some
shelving, a few clamps and consumables, such
as glue and abrasives, completed the project.
I am pleased to report that Sophie loved her
workshop and her first project, making furniture
for a dolls’ house (photo 4), soon had wardrobes
and chests of drawers flowing from the
production line!

Marking time
Sophie’s great, great grandfather, my paternal 3 A mitre frame saw was the safest option 4 Sophie’s first efforts; some furniture for her
grandfather, was a carpenter in the 1930s and dolls’ house
a family member who inherited his tools heard
that Sophie had shown this early interest in
woodwork. They kindly gave her his marking gauge
(photo 5) as a keepsake, which, in common with
the practice at the time, had his name stamped
on it. This tangible link with the past has become
a prized possession in her tool collection.
Sophie is excitedly planning her next projects
to continue her woodworking journey and has
recently been joined in her endeavours by her
10-year-old sister Gabriela, who shows just
as much enthusiasm to be creative. It must be
in the blood. ww 5 A link with the past for her to treasure

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 51

 WOODWORK Book review – 50 Things to Do with a Penknife: The whittler’s guide to life

Whittling away
the hours
The Editor is a big fan of this
beautifully presented, practical gift
guide to the age-old art of whittling

A
cquiring one’s own first penknife is a ‘helpful extras’ and then
big thing for a young person, and many we’re off and running.
of us will no doubt have fond memories
(slightly hazy in my case) of our first Lessons learned
experiences with one. It’s possible that the blade Project number one
may have been a bit on the small side, and not is sharpening a pencil,
quite sharp enough, but it was still a knife and and, despite this being
that was the glory of it. Early whittling, unless one the sort of thing we
was lucky enough to have a keen and caring adult woodworkers should
around to (safely) demonstrate the basics, was be able to do in our
generally restricted to the simple slashing of a sleep, I gave it a go.
stick to a point and maybe a spot of name carving It took me a moment
into a secluded tree trunk. to realise just why
I generally reach for
A feast of forest-based fun a purpose-made
With very few exceptions, things had remained sharpener for the
so for me, up until I had the enormous good fortune blunt pencil point.
to chance upon this great little book. Matt Collins My knife technique
has produced a simple work here that somehow was shockingly cavalier,
manages to do more than just list and describe a bordering on reckless, and
whole bunch of miniature past-time projects. The the reason why I had such little success when In summary
book follows a conventional and successful format it came to sharpening pencils with a blade. A few I found the whole thing a creative tonic, and proof
of introduction to the craft (with a bit of history and controlled push cuts later and it all become clear. that you can be happily productive even when
philosophy thrown in, all good stuff), then turns to A very good lesson it was, and there were more just loafing in a garden chair. It’s as a written
look at the kit involved. While it’s a bonus to have to follow. encouragement that this volume wins big; I can’t
the odd drill and bowsaw around, the main course Sometimes it only takes a little impetus to get recommend it enough. MC
for this feast of forest-based fun is without a doubt started, and this book provided it for me with that
the penknife itself. very first job. I took my copy into the woods the
Although some may swear by the Swiss Army other day and had a great time relaxing in the FURTHER INFORMATION
knife (good, but give me a pliers-based multi-tool Autumn sun with a few sticks of cherry and my Price: £9.99
any day), the only show in town has to be that trusty Opinel. I soon realised that there is plenty Published by: Pavilion Books
French favourite, the Opinel lock knife. For anyone of scope for artistic interpretation for most of the Web: www.pavilionbooks.com
who doesn’t have one yet, it’s available in a variety whittling projects in the book and it’s this
of sizes, is a knife you’ll never regret buying, and realisation that is part of the charm of Matt’s
will keep forever. The locking mechanism is work. While you might raise an eyebrow at
a design triumph of frugal simplicity and a joy to the inclusion of some of the projects (there are
operate every time – whether opening or closing genuinely 50 in number, the last being a boon
the blade. But I digress. After a couple of pages on for the thirsty), they will all provide inspiration
penknives, we look at wood type basics and then in one way or another, and by doing so prove The Editor’s
to carving techniques themselves, followed by their worth for publication. Opinel lock knife

One of the 50 creative and fun projects featured in this book The products of a happy afternoon in the woods

52 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

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 TURNING Enhancing your work

Colouring & texturing PART 3

In the final part of this mini series, Colin Simpson wraps things up by showing
you four more great techniques for applying colour and texture to your turnings

T
here is a limitless number of ways IRIDESCENT PAINTS off the top of the vase that I wanted to keep as
in which you can apply surface I have shown you how I use iridescent paints in natural wood, then sprayed the rest of the vase
enhancement to your turned work. the past when I coloured the rim of my Nebula with Chestnut ebonising lacquer (photo 2). I’ve
In this mini series, I am showing a bowl in the September 2016 issue, and here I found that this lacquer leaves such a good finish
few that I have used in the past and some am going to use a similar technique, but this that the iridescent paints can’t stick to it very well,
that may be new to you. I know coloured time on the outside of a vase. so, when it was dry, I gave it a quick rub with wire
turned work does not appeal to all of you, For this, I am using iridescent paints from Jo wool, which will provide a key for the paint.
but it is getting more popular and is sure Sonja (photo 1). These paints show up far better if
to make your work stand out. they are painted onto a dark background. I masked The technique in action
Ensure to use the iridescent paints very sparingly.
I squeezed out a pea-sized blob of each colour
into separate containers. For this particular
method, the paints need to be thinned down
with water to the consistency of single cream.
Use a small, soft paintbrush to dab on a splodge,
then blow through a drinking straw to move the
splodge around. If you have a compressor, then
you could use your air gun, or an empty airbrush
to move the paint around, which is a little easier,
particularly if you get short of breath. Continue to
splodge on random colours in a random manner
1 I use Jo Sonja’s iridescent paints 2 Spray the area you want to paint with and move the paints around using your air source
ebonising lacquer (photo 3). If you don’t like a particular area, you
can carefully wipe off the colour with a paper
towel and try again. I think these pieces look
better if you don’t cover up all of the dark back-
ground, but you can carry on until you are happy
with the effect. Leave the piece to dry, remove
the masking tape and finish the vase to your
liking. I used gloss acrylic lacquer (photo 4).

MARBLING
When I first started to marble my work, I thought
it should be quite a simple process, but it took me
3 Splodge on the paint and move it around with 4 The finished piece after spraying with gloss lacquer a little while to get everything just right. Marbling
your air source is the process of floating coloured inks on water

54 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

5 This is my marbling kit 6 Using a stick, move the ink around carefully 7 Two pieces that have just been dipped…

and then dipping the work into the bath. Photo 5

shows what I use. Obviously, you need marbling
inks, but you will also need a thickening agent for
the water. This is the pot in the front left of photo
5. Mix it with water and follow the instructions
on the bottle. The water needs to be thickened
to the consistency of thin wallpaper paste. The
aluminium sulphate (known in marbling circles as
‘Alum’) is also mixed with water and used to prime
or seal the workpiece. However, I have had greater
success if I seal the wood with sanding sealer and,
on some occasions, I have used a water-based
paint primer or gesso to cover the wood that I
want marbled.

The technique in action

I am going to marble the rim of a small bowl. Turn
the back and rim of the bowl, sand to a finish and
put sanding sealer on the back; this protects the
back from any overspill and makes it easier to
clean up afterwards. Seal the rim with Alum or
sanding sealer. On this occasion, I used gesso.
Don’t turn out the middle of the bowl at this stage
– unless of course you want to marble this part.
Next, pour the thickened water into a shallow
bowl and then add a few drops of marbling ink
to the water. Gently move the inks around with 8 … and one that has been finished

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 55

 TURNING Enhancing your work

HYDRO DIPPING
I have recently seen this technique used on plastic
and metal items and thought it might be another
technique I could use for wood. It has been given
the rather grand name of ‘Hydro Dipping’, but to
my mind it is just marbling. This technique uses
spray paints – photo 9 shows the ones I use.
I limited my palette to black, grey and white,
but you can use whichever colours you like.

The technique in action

I am going to paint the back and rim of a bowl. 10 Spray each paint into warm water…
9 The paints I use for hydro dipping As before, turn and finish the back and rim,
but don’t turn the middle of the bowl out yet.
a small stick (photo 6) until you have a pattern You can then seal the back and rim with sanding
you are happy with and then carefully dip the sealer, but you could also prime it with acrylic
bowl into the ink. I keep the workpiece in the paint to achieve a slightly different result.
chuck so I have something to hold onto. You can I am going to dip the whole bowl this time,
then remove the piece from the marbling bath so I needed to remove it from the chuck. I used
and gently immerse it in a bucket of clean water a hot-melt glue gun to glue a scrap piece of
to remove any excess Alum, then leave to dry. wood to the chucking point, which would be
Photo 7 shows the two bowls that I dipped. used as a temporary handle.
When the rim is dry, turn the middle of the You will need a bucket of warm water. Shake
bowl out in the normal way and finish to your the cans of paint and then spray a liberal amount 11 … gently agitate the paint to achieve a nice,
choice. I used acrylic lacquer (photo 8). of each one into the bucket of water (photo 10). pleasing pattern…

12 … then submerge your workpiece 14 Use a stiff wire brush to scratch the wood and 15 Spray the piece black and then gold
remove the softer growth

13 The finished hydro-dipped piece

56 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 17 The finished piece after removing excess
16 Rub in the Verdigris wax wax with oil

Gently agitate the water to let the paints mingle Conclusion

into a nice pattern (photo 11) and then gently Over the last few issues, I have shown you a
submerge your piece (photo 12). Allow the paint number of different techniques to colour and
to dry and then finish the bowl in the normal enhance your turned work, but there are hundreds
way (photo 13). of other ways. If you enjoy embellishing your
work, my advice is to experiment with paint, inks,
GOLD PAINT & VERDIGRIS WAX waxes and items to add texture. You don’t have
This is a simple procedure that works well on to practice on turned work or even expensive
cheap, quick growing softwood, such as pine or wood – photo 18 shows me playing with acrylic
cedar. I used an offcut from a fence post to turn paints, a hair dryer and isopropyl alcohol. I am
a small, simple shaped bud vase or weed pot. using an offcut of plasterboard that I primed with
18 Experimenting with acrylic paints and alcohol gesso, but primed hardboard or plywood is ideal
The technique in action for experimentation. The alcohol reacts with the
Sand the outside and then brush it hard with acrylic paint to leave quite a pleasing effect. Photo
a stiff wire brush; this will clearly scratch the 19 shows a close-up of it. It might look good on
surface, but it also removes some of the softer the rim of a bowl or even on the lid of a box, but I
spring growth between the grain (photo 14). I have yet to work out how to apply it to the side of
sprayed the whole vase with ebonising lacquer a vase due to the curvature of the piece. If you’re
and then with gold spray paint (photo 15). When happy with a particular experiment, then you will
the paint was dry I rubbed Verdigris wax onto the need to work out how it can be applied to your
surface (photo 16), then wiped the excess away turned work.
with a paper towel and Danish oil. I also rubbed Finally, I am going to finish this mini series
a little of the gold paint away, revealing the black by showing you an image of a platter that my
19 This is a close-up of that experiment undercoat. I think painting it black first gives the neighbour and avid reader of this magazine, John
gold more depth – photo 17 shows the end result. Creevy, made. Photo 20 shows the platter and
photo 21 is a close-up of the rim. It was done
using the centrifugal technique I showed you in
the October issue and is a far, far better example
than the piece I made for the article. So, play and
experiment and don’t worry if your attempts don’t
all work. Keep at it and you too could come up
with a complete stunner. ww

20 Here is really nice example of centrifugal painting using acrylics… 21 … and a close-up of the rim

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 57

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 Desk box WOODWORK

Dancing with
DIVERSITY
Michael Forster combines bubinga, ash and ebony (photo 2). However, I then found that after
to make a leather-lined desk box with lift-out tray recent dismantling and reassembly my router

T
was not absolutely square to the table, so I
his desk box was a response to a The interlocking grain of bubinga causes a had to pare the shoulders close up to the joint.
last-minute request for a retirement shimmering effect when smooth, but it’s a An accurate combination square is the perfect
gift for a colleague. Uniting three diverse Dickens of a job to get it that way. I prepared tool for checking shoulder angles (photo 3).
timbers in one box resonates with a the timber well over-size and used a hand To rout the mortises, I simply marked the
particular aspect of Christian belief about unity plane to remove some deep tear-out. edges of the cutter on the fence and made
in diversity, and I knew this would appeal to guide marks on the boards to align with them
the recipient – the more so if the three timbers Corner joints (photo 4). The mortises and stopped grooves
represented diverse cultures. So I took some With the timber prepared, I shot the ends on for the bottom were made with standard straight
bubinga, which originates from West Africa, a shooting board to ensure squareness so that cutters, positioning the mortises so that the
European ash from stock, and threw in a small the bare-faced tenons could be cut at the router front and back panels would be visibly proud
piece of Macassar ebony, native to Indonesia, table (photo 1). For this I used a down-cut spiral of the ends. This ensured plenty of scope for
that I had left over from another job. bit that gave me a beautifully clean shoulder cleaning up the grain.

1 Bare-faced tenons were cut at the router table 2 Use of a down-cut spiral bit in the router table 3 A combination square made a good depth gauge,
using a simple 90° guide produced a nice clean shoulder as here, and it was also used for checking squareness
of tenon shoulders

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 61

 WOODWORK Desk box

11mm pins

100

Top view Drawing in millimetres

12 12
255 100
12

20

75

35

4
Front view Side view

Fig.1 Desk box

Originally, I thicknessed a piece of ash to fit the should ensure smooth operation in the future stays. I’m sure there is a geometric formula for
bottom groove, but later changed to MDF because – these pivots can’t be refitted once the box calculating this, but life’s a bit on the short side
this would allow me to glue in the bottom panel is assembled so this kind of care is necessary. for that sort of pedantry – if it looks good and
for extra strength; bubinga can be difficult to glue Drilling the pin holes in the carcass and lid ends works well, then it’s right.
due to gum pockets, and these corner joints have (photo 6) demanded precision as any misalignment Lightly clamped up dry, everything worked as
small glue surfaces. would cause binding, so I used my basic but fully it should, but before I could glue up I had other
adequate jig (photo 7) to hold the lid panel vertical things to do. Some areas would be impossible
Carcass & lid in both planes. I took some trouble with a gauge to finish well once assembled, so I applied a few
After cutting the lid to size, I lightly clamped to ensure the hole was dead centre in the lid, then coats of acrylic varnish to the inside corners of
the carcass together and trimmed down the marked deeply with an awl (photo 8), replicating ends around the pin holes, the ends and back
lid until it was a nice fit between the ends. the marks in the end panels and setting the edge of the lid panel and the top edge of the
Next came the hinge – a simple pair of drill depth stop so that the combined holes carcass back, and went on to finish the entire
4mm brass pins cut from a rod. These need to were just 1mm longer than the rods (photo 9). lid panel before assembly. I also finished the
be a freely-turning fit in the hole with just a little show areas of the inside. Now I could do the
allowance for any wood movement, but when Shapes & curves glue up (photos 11 & 12).
experimenting on scrap I found a 4.5mm hole Before assembly, the back edge of the lid
too sloppy. The answer was to mount a piece had to be shaped to allow the lid to turn on Lift-out tray
of rod in the chuck of my drill press and rotate its pins (photo 10). I did this by eye with a hand While it was drying, I mitred the corners for the
it against a file, checking frequently with a test plane, first chamfering at about 45° and then ebony lift-out tray using a simple bird-house jig
piece of scrap until I had an exact fit (photo 5). successively removing corners until a satisfactory on a shooting board (photos 13 & 14). My jig is
I then cut the pins to length and smoothed the quadrant was formed. I then slightly extended not very elegant but it’s served me well for some
ends by rotating them in a drill chuck against the curve around to the top edge, to allow the lid years and I’ve lost count of the number of boxes
some coarse wet-and-dry abrasive. All that to sit open at about 95° without any supporting it’s helped me turn out precision mitres for. The

4 Marks on the router table fence indicated the 5 With a lot of checking, the brass rod was ‘turned’ 6 Using an offcut, a gauge was precisely centred
cutter edges, and on the timber the ends of the to a sliding fit in the drill press for positioning the pin holes in the lid
stopped grooves

62 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

7 This simple jig held the lid at precisely 90° in both 8 After plotting with the gauge a deeper mark 9 Everything was clamped in position and
planes for a perfectly aligned hole was made with an awl to locate the brad-point bit then double-checked before drilling commenced

10 To allow the lid to open, the underside of the 11 After glue-up, the box is cleaned up and the 13 Made from scraps, the bird-house jig looks
rear edge must be rounded so that the lid will front flushed down to the ends rough and ready but is actually a precision tool for
lean backwards and stay open jobs like trimming the mitres on the lift-out tray

14 The timber is held at precisely 45° to the

12 Rear view showing relieved rear edge to the lid, which allows easy movement plane and 90° against the fence

important thing is that the bearing surfaces Before fully finishing the carcass, I tested the
are precisely angled, and unless you have a very tray in position, resting it on offcuts trimmed
accurate mitre saw that’s a job for hand planing. to width to simulate the linings. The tray can
Once the corners are mitred (photo 15), be dry-assembled using tape, to allow it to
ensure that both ends and both sides are be tested for fit before gluing. I used a simple
identical in length so that the finished tray will band clamp to hold it while the glue dried.
be square. Again, I glued in MDF for the bottom The carcass could now be fully finished
panel, so no need for reinforcing corner keys. and set aside, and the tray cleaned up.
While the tray dried, I returned to the carcass Again, the sanding board came into its own.
to flush down the front and back and clean up
the ends with a sharp, finely set plane. Traces of Ribbon solutions
paper stuck to the bottom edges were removed Before lining the tray (photo 17), I set the 15 The Macassar ebony was mitred for the lift-out
by rubbing on a double-sided flat sanding board, ribbon in place using enough Copydex adhesive tray using a No.9 plane. If using an ordinary jack,
simultaneously producing a perfectly flat perimeter. to saturate the fabric to provide strength to lift ensure that the cutter sits square to the sides

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 63

 WOODWORK Desk box

TIP
A single one-handed clamp bearing on the
centre of the two ends did the best job for
the glue-up. With something this small, heavy
clamps can actually pull things out of line,
so I ensured that the weight of the clamp
was being taken on the bench, imposing no
strain or lift on the box itself, which sat solidly
on a flat piece of MDF with protective paper
between them
16 The ribbon was glued to the bottom before the 17 The finished tray with its card-backed leather
lining. To guard against fraying, seal the cut ends trim, which matches the bottom of the box
by looping them back
FURTHER INFORMATION
More of Matthew Coutts’ work can be found
on his website: www.matthewcoutts.co.uk

Tyler Hardwoods
Web: www.tylerhardwoods.com

the tray (photo 16). I realised later that I hadn’t

used the best approach in sealing the cut ends
of the ribbon. Much better would have been
to double the ends back to form loops, thus
avoiding the fraying issue altogether. Once 18 The 3mm ash linings were shot to a push-fit, 19 With the ash linings in place, the leather trim
the ribbon was secure, I lined the tray with mitred at the corners and half-lapped in the middle was folded over card and added
leather as for the bottom of the box.
in position – no glue was necessary. Now there against the box linings. I cut a strip of card to
Linings & trimmings was just the trimming to do (photo 19). I used width and applied double-sided tape to one side,
I fitted the ash linings by trial and error (photo pigskin suede, but felt or velvet would be an then stuck a slightly oversize piece of leather to
18), mitre-ing the corners using the bird-house option although velvet is much more tricky to it, turned it over and repeated on the other side,
jig. The centre divider was simply notched into handle. The bottom linings are simply card with carefully folding the leather over, then trimmed
the front and back linings. I marked the visible leather on one side, whereas the sides have the bottom edges. After cutting the pieces slightly
shoulder with a knife but if you are not confident leather folded over the top and covering both oversize, I trimmed them back with a scalpel,
about precision sawing then cut shy and pare faces of the card. This may seem extravagant until the pieces held themselves in place, then
back. Only the top edges, and perhaps a few and you may ask why the top edge could not secured them with some more double-sided tape.
millimetres of the inside faces, need to be just be turned over a few millimetres. My method, All that remained was to drop in the tray (photo
varnished before the linings could be placed however, ensured that the trim sat perfectly flat 20) and the box was ready for presentation. ww

20 A very satisfying transformation – and one that was remarkably simple

to achieve

64 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 WOODWORK Quilt stand

Peter Benson hones

Blanket coverage his skills with a router,

jigs and template to
make a pine quilt stand

W
hen my wife requested that
I make us another quilt stand,
I measured up the existing one,
and began mentally listing the
various stages and techniques that would be
needed. In terms of helping me to gain experience
– I dare not say expertise – the project seemed
to provide a good opportunity to practise several
techniques and to try out some new methods.
It is made from pine boards to match other
furniture in the bedroom, but I have to say that
I find pine more difficult to work with than, say,
a nice piece of ash. It does not give the crisp lines
that I like – and, when my tools aren’t as sharp
as they might be, it mercilessly shows up the fact.

Stand design
1 The comedy and tragedy drama The function of the stand is to display a
masks cut into the end plates are prized quilt or, more mundanely, to support
my family logo! the bedclothes while the bed is being made.
The design is simple and, to avoid snagging
the bed clothes, smooth in outline. At the same
time, we felt it should be recognisably ours, and
so the family logo is incorporated, in the shape
of the drama masks comedy and tragedy, which
have provided an important theme for our
55-year marriage...
The stand consists of two end plates and
four rails, joined by through-mortises & tenons
(photo 1). Stub tenons could be employed, but
I thought the end plates were possibly a bit thin
for that, and I like seeing the joins in such a simple
design. All external edges are rounded over to
eliminate snagging.
The shape of the end plates allowed me to
use a tapered jig, and the router table for rounding
all the external edges; I was able to prepare a
template for the various holes to be cut in the
end plates, and make up a jig to use the router on
the tenons. In short, these are all good techniques
for a neophyte woodworker to practise.

2 The end plates were cut from 18mm pine boards – here’s the three-board glue-up in cramps 3 A taper jig was used on a table saw to cut the
end plates’ shape

66 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

4 The finished curve was created using a template 5 I used a template-following straight 1⁄2in cutter 6 The outer edges were rounded with a 3in
with the router with a top bearing to reproduce the template’s outline round-over cutter with top bearing in the router table

7 The bottom curve was drawn out with a slat and clamp... 8 ... and then cleaned up with a spokeshave

9 My handy tenon jig was put to work with the router 10 A 12⁄ in straight cutter in a bushing was used against 11 Three rails were sanded together with 120, 180,
the running board of the jig and 240 grit abrasive pads

Of course the whole thing could be made with a kitchen plate, then created with a coping the panel. Set a high speed on the router and
hand tools, but I have few skills in this area, saw, keeping close to the line, so you can take fine, grazing cuts to achieve the smoothest
so I rely on jigs and templates, which allow sand down to the line with 80 grit abrasive. finish, especially on the end-grain of the panel.
me to set everything up and take practise cuts To shape the tops of the panels, another To round over the outer edges you can use a
on scraps before committing to the real wood. plate can be used to mark the outline, to be 3in round-over cutter with top bearing in the router
followed on the bandsaw, keeping just outside table, skimming gently. My test piece showed that
End plates the line. To create the finished curve I prepared a the cuts on the second side bearing no longer had
The end plates were cut from 18mm pine template for the router (see ‘end plate’ template the full original surface to run on, as it had been
boards, glued in threes to make the wide panels, and photo 4). This was stuck to the panel with slightly reduced by my first shaping. For the
the growth rings being alternated to minimise double-sided tape, with a clamp in a remote second side, then, I brought the fence up to engage
cupping (photo 2). Many of the DIY sheds carry corner, to prevent any possible slippage, which the work slightly before the bearing (photo 6).
similar panels, ready-glued up and planed, would ruin the project. The mortises were cut using the template
if you’re in a hurry. and the straight 12⁄ in cutter with top bearing. Keep
Once glued and planed, the required outline Routing practice the router moving or the cutter will burn the panel.
can be drawn on the panel; I adjusted my taper Next, I mounted a template-following straight 12⁄ in I followed the same approach to create the
jig to the appropriate angle (see ‘the jigs’ sidebar) cutter with a top bearing in the router (photo 5), top circle hole, which is there for ease of picking
and put it through the table saw. The jig holds which runs against the side of the template to up the final stand, and the drama mask logo
the panel firmly while sliding against the fence reproduce its outline. For the actual surgery, holes. I had to remember to turn the template
to cut the required taper (photo 3). clamp the panel over the edge of the bench, upside-down, for the second mouth to be
The bottom cut-outs can be marked around so the cutter is free to spin above and below happy instead of sad.

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 67

 WOODWORK Quilt stand

Now for the rails

After judicious sanding of the end plates and
their edges – not too much around the various
holes, which should be left clean and sharp –
I was ready for the rails.
These were ripped from some remnants of
a pine bed frame that were otherwise damaged,
then skimmed with the plane. The top three rails
are straight and narrow, while the bottom rail
is deeper, with a curved underside to add a
little interest. This curve was created on the
bandsaw, following a line drawn against a
sprung slat (photo 7), before being cleaned
up with a spokeshave (photo 8).
Since the tenons were to pass right through
the mortises, the rails were cut the full length.
To cut the tenons one has a range of options,
from bandsaw to handsaw to table saw –
my American friends would use a dado cutter
in the table saw, but I was looking to learn new
techniques and saw in Roy Sutton’s Jig Making for
the Router a jig that is designed for just this task.
12 Three sash cramps held the structure together overnight while the glue went off

THE JIGS The jig was easy to build and worked well (see slices with a chisel and a little sanding left
Taper cutting jig for the table saw ‘the jigs’ sidebar), and I was able to set it up using the tenons fitting nicely.
The panel is clamped to a flat, an offcut of the rail material and try this against Once the rails and tenons are cut, tested and
parallel-sided board using a the mortise before committing the actual rails
th good, it is time to round over their arrises. This
couple of toggle clamps, so the (photo 9). For this routing I used a 12⁄ in straight
(p means going back to the router table and, using
panel projects over the side cutter in a bushing that ran against the running
cu the same round-over cutter as before, lightly
of the jig, which runs against board of the jig (photo 10). The bush provides
bo skimming all long edges, then placing the four
the table saw fence. Lacking guidance long before the cutter is in contact with
gu rails side-by-side for a sanding on all four surfaces.
such toggle clamps, you could the work. So that was a useful lesson, though
th I started at 120 grit, then 180 and 240 – no point
attach the panel to the jig eexperienced router-ers won’t need to be told. in going higher with soft pine (photo 11).
using short, countersunk The shoulders and cheeks are narrow –
wood screws through parts only 2 or 3mm – but sufficient to increase Assembly & finish
of the panel, which will be the glued surfaces and conceal any I assembled the unit upright on the workbench,
cut off or routed away later unevenness in their mating. for a precise and reliable platform. The first job
was to paint PVA on each tenon and shoulder,
Tenoning jig for the router Fitting tenons taking care not to spread it too widely as that
This is basically Roy Sutton’s jig, with a few To fit the square tenons into the round-ended would interfere with the finishing. Three sash
modifications, from his book Jig Making for the mortises you can square up the mortises or round cramps held it all together overnight while the
Router, published by Fine Grain Productions, over the tenons; since the entire design involves glue went off (photo 12).
1997. The rail is clamped in the jig, pushed curved tops and the tenons are intended to be The next day I quickly cleaned up the joints
against the spelch block on one side and seen, I went for the latter. Each tenon was held and gave it a light sanding where necessary, most
forward against a specially cut end stop against its intended mortise, and a sharp pencil of it having been hand sanded before assembly.
– this sets the required tenon length. poked through the mortise to mark the required Two coats of finishing oil and a final waxing,
The spelch block stays in place, while the shape
sha e on the end-grain
hap rain of thee tenon. A few judicial
end gra then the stand was ready to be deployed. ww
end stop is removed for the routing operation.
Using an offcut from the same rail material,
the router plunge is now carefully set to give END PLATE TEMPLATE FOR THE ROUTER
EN
the desired thickness of tenon. Always moving Mo of the shapes needed for routing were incorporated in one main
Most
the router towards the spelch block minimises template, designed to guide the router cutters. The outer edge is used
tem
the amount of breakout on the rail. Use the jig with a bearing-guided straight cutter, which reproduces exactly the
wi
to cut all the shoulders, then reset the cutting shape of the template; the mortises and top circle are also cut-outs.
sh
height if wished
shed and use the same endend-stop
stop A 14⁄ in straight cutter in a bush was employed for the logo since it
to cut the cheeks
heeks reached better into the logo cut-outs. For this reason the template
rea
for the logo had to be slightly bigger at 11⁄ 6in, to allow for the bushing.
The template material is 14⁄ in hardboard, which is easy to shape yet
sturdy enough to guide the cutters.
stu
The template was prepared using hole saws and fretsaw, rounding with
files to give smooth, flowing edges. I could have made a full-sized template
file
incorporating every design feature in the correct position, but this would have
inc
wasted a lot of material, so I condensed the features in a smaller template
wa
at the expense of having to reposition it a couple of times in use. That said,
you should leave it as big as you can, so you have room to clamp it out of
yo
the router’s way

68 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

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 WOODWORK English furniture history – The early woodworker

A carpenter’s chips
Phil Whitfeld looks back to the humble beginnings of English carpentry
interpretations of all at Bath, that architecture and building were highly
Grandpa was a carpenter, he built houses, stores and banks that is English furniture. developed and sophisticated during the Romans’
Chain-smoked Camel cigarettes and hammered nails in planks The use of ‘carpenter’, which tenure. It is probably fair to assume that the skills
He would level on the level, shaved even every door outside the trade tends to be of the woodworkers were on a par with those
And voted for Eisenhower ’cos Lincoln won the war an all-purpose catch-all term, of the stonemasons. The unforgiving climate,
had specific meanings here in of course, has ensured that no wooden structures
Grandpa was a Carpenter, John Prine, Atlantic Records, 1973 the 20th century, and allowed or artefacts have actually survived intact from
us to differentiate between the this period, although a few traces and remnants

S
various disciplines that make have been found and reclaimed from marshland.
o sang John Prine back in the early ’70s, up the woodworking trade. This was not always The Roman Empire maintained its presence
offering us a little portrait of what he the case, however. The word itself can be traced in Britain for over 400 years up until 410 AD,
thought being a carpenter was all about. back to its biblical usage, and even further, to the but little written evidence of their time here
His observation that his grandfather ancient civilisations of Rome, Greece and Egypt. now exists. The subsequent Anglo-Saxon period
“hammered nails in planks” pays homage to In the summer of 2009, I was lucky enough to that followed the withdrawal of the Romans is
the old axiom that carpenters use nails, joiners visit Cairo and see the Tutankhamen exhibition also poorly documented. There is almost nothing
use screws and cabinetmakers use joints. featuring chairs, beds, tables, cabinets and for the first 200 years, and following that, up until
Obviously this is a sweeping generalisation, cupboards that were constructed over 3,500 the Norman Conquest, we only have the limited
but a good starting point for the purposes years ago. The heat and lack of humidity in the writings and the work of the church and its
of our investigation of the craft. locality of the tomb ensured that these artefacts monasteries to go by.
Previous articles featured here, and others did not rot away and enables us to see first-hand I don’t want to dwell too much on the history
to follow, will look at the development of English the highly developed levels of craft skills that lessons but I feel it is important to establish that
furniture through observations of the trades those ancient craftsmen had at their disposal. high levels of craft and skill in woodworking must
that produced the work, from early carpenters have been evident throughout the Roman rule in
and joiners, to the highly skilled cabinetmakers Veni, vidi, vici Britain. The Dark Ages that followed saw many
of the Georgian and Regency periods. We will The early Mediterranean cultures spread their developments, and of course losses of these
look at how developments in tools, processes, empires far and wide, the Romans eventually skills. However, we can only pick up those threads
machinery and materials informed and of course reaching the shores of this fair isle. post-1066 when record keeping and inventories
contributed to the traditions and aesthetic We can see through remains, such as those became more common and more has survived.

70 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 The woodcarvings at Chester
Cathedral exemplify the
Gothic trends of repetition,
symmetry and verticality...

… the latter of which is also epitomised by the imposing Canterbury Cathedral

This period from the latter Dark Ages, well into the later stage further examples of how the language the wooden framed huts in which the majority
Norman era, was a great monastery and castle of woodworking has entered into general usage, of the population lived, stone buildings being
building time and much of the stone work at least and how many words and phrases that we take reserved for the church, castles and fortifications.
has survived intact (the Tower of London dating for granted have their origins in the craft. Furniture in these dwellings would have been
back to 1078, for example) or as archaeological sparse and developed to suit the requirements of
ruins (Fountains Abbey, 1132). The carpenter Localised trade domestic life. Stools were the principal item – the
would have had a significant role during this At this point in history there was obviously no three-legged variety, as these have the capability
time, not least constructing the massive beam industry as we regard it today. Crafts of all types of remaining stable on any uneven surface (such
structures that would have held the roofs in place. would have been very localised, every village stools survived well into the last century as the
We shall see, however, that in those early years having its own carpenter, blacksmith and so on. milking stools). Beds would have been of straw,
of the Norman Conquest, furniture making as a Difficulties in communication would have resulted and tables may have existed, but only as a board
discipline was not a speciality set apart from any in any developments in technique also being very on some form of trestle arrangement. Britain also
other area of woodcraft, and that such artefacts localised and slow to spread. All timbers would has a great history of shipbuilding in oak, but this
had not reached the stage where they were have been locally sourced, oak being the mainstay, reaches a pinnacle later as the skills of carpentry
regarded as chattels signifying wealth or status. but also beech and whatever else was close at developed into joinery.
Fabrics and cloth and metalwork were regarded hand. Trees were felled with an iron axe as and The possessions of the peasant population
with much higher esteem. Often wooden artefacts when required and converted for use by the were few and far between so storage
were constructed simply to display those items. carpenter himself. Wood was not sawn, but riven requirements were negligible. Both the church
The term carpenter probably came into use into segments along the grain with the use of iron and the ruling classes would have need for
just after the Conquest, emanating from the wedges driven into the timber. These would be storage facilities of some sort and while no
French ‘carpentier’, which itself derived from cleaned up and squared into boards with an adze. original examples exist, we do know that chests
the Latin ‘carpentrius’ (maker of carriages). The Seasoning and drying were little understood, were hewn out of solid tree trunks. The whole
Middle-English preference had been for ‘wright’ so the qualities of green oak were embraced. was wrapped in iron bands to help it retain a
as in arkwright, wheelwright and even boatwright. Carpenters came to make use of these qualities semblance of shape as it warped and twisted
This term fell out of favour as the language in the development of the great supporting through the drying process. This later developed
developed after the Norman occupation, although beamed structures of great halls and barns. into a structure consisting of boards of timber
interestingly it was retained through surnames, During this time carpenters would mostly fixed together with iron nails. Of course, the
especially in the north of England. We will see at a be occupied in building dwelling places – problems of shrinkage and warping were not

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 71

 WOODWORK English furniture history – The early woodworker

Negligible storage needs meant people often The Normans may be best known for 1066, but
used simple ‘arks’ to store their possessions their dedication to record keeping is one of the
An early milking stool things that makes them so valuable to us today

overcome but actually accentuated by the very the changing domestic dwelling arrangements evolved into what was to be known as Gothic
technique used to hold the structure together; of the church and aristocracy and the functional architecture, a term not used until the following
as the timber dried it simply split away from the requirements of developing furniture. Renaissance period and coined as a stylistic
nails that were holding the boards in position. Up until the mid-13th century, the carpenter insult. Originating in France, the Gothic became
It was not until the development of the ‘Joyner’s was generally the sole woodworker to be the favoured style for churches, abbeys, and
Mystery’ that this problem was overcome. regarded as a ‘craftsman’ and he remained the great cathedrals throughout Europe until
so well into the 16th century. He was assisted, well into the 16th century and was later revived
Changing terms certainly in architectural structures, by the carver, in the 19th century as Victorian Gothic.
Vestiges of the Anglo-Saxon language remained who in terms of skill and expertise is historically, One of the key elements of the style was
throughout the Norman period and makers of and quite rightly, often regarded as being a far the emphasis on verticality. The structures,
chests were often referred to as arkwrights. superior craftsman to the carpenter. especially ecclesiastical buildings, appeared
The word ‘ark’ meant a place of safety, a term The work in the rood screens and pulpits to grow out of the ground and stretch towards
with biblical origins, as in the Ark of the Covenant, and choir stalls of religious institutions was the sky, reaching to heaven. Enabling and
which housed the writings of Jewish law handed highly detailed and complex and a testament emphasising this was the development of the
down to Moses, and of course Noah’s ark. to the carver’s skill rather than the carpenter’s. pointed arch, which required no keystone to
‘Hutch’ was retained, describing artefacts Stanton Harcourt in Oxfordshire, dating from stabilise it. This allowed builders to construct
used for storage purposes, hence the hutchier, the 13th century, is one such example of this. high and wide windows, flooding the buildings
although these days we tend to think of a hutch with light.
as housing small animals such as rabbits. Rarely Reach for the heavens These characteristics were adapted by the
in common use these days the word ‘coffer’ The fact that we have so few examples of woodworker, especially the carver, to provide
referred to makers of similar objects. Today work makes it problematic to identify a style or a coherent whole to such buildings. Carving
we tend to think of it as a monetary repository, aesthetic. The predominant style in architecture tended towards repetition, symmetry and
although it referred originally to a receptacle throughout Europe had been Romanesque, an again the emphasis on the vertical.
for storing any valuable object. amalgamation of Roman and Byzantine styles. While today we can marvel at the skill
The tradesmen who made these objects – However, accurate dating of this is open to of those early woodworkers and bask in the
the arkwrights and hutchiers – lacked the history debate, with starting points ranging from the glow of an almost poetic and ethereal use
and traditions of the carpenter and were not 6th to the 10th centuries. In Britain the tendency of our native English oak, there is evidence to
regarded with the same status. They eventually is to refer to this style as Norman, which then suggest that, without exception, this realisation
fell from grace as the woodworker’s craft as far as we’re concerned places it in the 11th of the carver’s art was painted and often gilded.
developed and its scope widened to encompass century. The Romanesque style developed and This somewhat skews our perception of the
visual effect these structures had, much in the
way that we know buildings and stonework,
THE ADZE including sculptures, from Ancient Greece and
An adze is widely known as being used for Rome were also painted and highly decorated.
smoothing rough-cut wood. The blade is set
at right angles to the tool’s shaft like a hoe, Jack of all trades
and unlike the blade of an axe, which is set So we have seen that the carpenter, a general-
in line with the shaft. purpose woodworker, reigned supreme in Britain
Generally the user stands astride the from our starting point (1066) up until the mid-
board, previously riven from a trunk, and 16th century. His skills developed from producing
swings the adze downwards towards their simple wooden framed dwellings, stools and
feet, shaving off pieces of material and chests to, with the help of the carver, the highly
moving backwards as they go, leaving complex and decorative ecclesiastical woodwork
a relatively smooth surface behind. of the great cathedrals and abbeys. Along the
In the right hands the quality of finish way were the massive sturdy, beamed ceilings
that can be produced is excellent. The untidy in halls and barns utilising the merits of green
look of the faux adzed timbers one sees in timber. Alongside the carpenter, but with lesser
The adze is still used to hand build boats, many an olde worlde country pub is incorrect status, were the arkwrights and hutchiers,
amongst other things and misleading and eventually we will see the emergence of
the joiner. ww

72 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 WOODWORK Mantelpiece clock

Time for a change Doing it with hand tools

Having studied the two designs featured in the
article I decided that the more rounded of the two
would better suit their décor and style. However,
while I would keep the design as close as possible
Michael Allsop presents an alternative approach to to the plans, the method of construction would be
the mantelpiece clock for those lacking in machinery very different. To some extent, Dominic’s design

I
had been created to facilitate the use of machines
t is always satisfying when circumstances prospects of finding work, I joked at the time to size and shape the wood. My workshop, which
contrive to create a satisfying result, that I’d be making everyone’s Christmas gifts doubles as a garden shed and bicycle storage
especially when initially things may look rather than buying them. As the year progressed, facility, neither contains nor has the space for
less than perfect. This philosophical start however, I started thinking about this more such tools. I do, however, have a Japanese saw
is an attempt to explain the position in which seriously, and not just because of the job that I find myself using more and more and a
I found myself towards the end of last year. prospects! With my free time I had enjoyed my couple of decent planes that I bought for making
Out of work last summer and with no immediate first project using hardwood – the construction the paddles.
of two ash and cherry canoe paddles. These had Because I can’t process large blanks when
travelled with us to Sweden and performed undertaking woodworking projects I’ve become
pleasingly well during a week-long canoeing rather fond of the laminating technique; that is,
holiday. Buoyed up by this success, I was looking building up workpieces using smaller pieces of
for another project when I came across one of timber. This worked for the paddles and I thought
Dominic Collings’ past articles and plans for it would be just the trick for making an interesting
mantelpiece clocks. body for the clock. A trip to my local timber yard
Intrigued by the design and inspired by the – Illingworth Ingham in Hyde – furnished me
challenge, I decided to make one of these clocks with a nice block of ash and an offcut strip of
for my parents for Christmas. They have always sapele. Working out the minimum amount of
enjoyed handmade things, especially items of cuts necessary to arrive with the correct-sized
furniture or paintings, and pieces created by blocks, I soon set to work with the saw.
1 Opting only to use hand tools for this project, family members are usually held in fond Hand-sawing a 50mm-thick block of ash
I was faced with cutting a 50mm block of ash regard, so I knew that if I made a good job requires a lot of patience, several breaks and
with a handsaw – a trying job of it everyone would be satisfied by the result! even more cups of tea, but if done carefully I

74 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

2 I knew, however, that if I did this carefully, I would 3 The laminae of ash and sapele were fixed together 4 To remove the waste from the bevelled front and
save a lot of time at the finishing stage with Gorilla glue, which I find reliable and easy to use back, I used a saw followed by a plane to refine the
shape of the block

CL

14.5

135 rad

75Ø clock insert

5 The top’s corners were sawn off, and the curve
perfected with a rasp, spokeshave and file

knew I’d save myself a lot of time at the finishing 185

stage. Similarly, carefully cutting and planing the
strips of sapele would make my life easier later
162
on. Finally, the five pieces of wood were ready for
laminating and I used the remainder of the Gorilla
108 from bottom

glue that I had bought for the paddles. I love this

stuff, easy enough to work with and when dry,
strong and invisible in a good join. When it had
dried I used a router to cut the rebate for the clock
movement, my one concession to using power
tools in this project.
50
Shaping up
Next I needed to finalise the shape of the clock.
To remove the waste from the bevelled front and
back I decided rough sawing followed by some
Drawing in millimetres
plane work would be the best approach. This 50
worked well enough, but with the amount of
wood that still had to come off, regular sharpening
of the plane blade was essential. It really showed
that you only notice how blunt it has gotten after 67 93.5
you’ve sharpened it! The curved top needed a 122 rad
different approach. Sawing the top corners off
got the process started but I then found a rasp, 14.5 40
spokeshave and fine file achieved the smooth
radius featured in the design.
After giving the whole piece a sanding to
15 rad
round all the edges and remove any file marks
50
it was then ready for oiling. A thinned coat of
Danish oil was followed by another couple of
coats of undiluted oil with buffings in between
each coat. To finish everything off, a pad of dark CL

brown felt was glued to the base with spray 180

mount and finally the clock movement was
inserted into the rebate. Time to stand back
and enjoy the result! ww Fig.1 Mantelpiece clock

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 75

NEXT MONTH

Coming up in
the next issue...
WW December on sale
17 November

SIDNEY THE SMOKING SNOWMAN

Andrew Hall returns with a fun Christmas turning project, which sees him
using simple hollowing techniques to create a snowman that actually smokes!

MEN IN SHEDS A BOX CALLED DITTO – PART 1

Embarking on a road trip to visit his local UK Men’s Sheds Association premises, Rick Wheaton is In part 1 of making a ditty box, Robin Gates
warmly greeted by the members and discovers that each is doing their bit for charity while practising reclaims old oak for the sides and ends, cuts
what they love – woodworking rebates by hand, and finds a sweet technique
for restoring a rusty saw

PLUS • Shepherd huts • From stool to table • Me and my workshop – Linda Kemp
• Bookcase library • Anatomy of a Classic: Isokon

76 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 ON TEST Wixey drill press laser

Specification
• Thin and precise easy Wixey WL133
to adjust crosshairs
• Mounts quickly
to any drill press
drill press laser
• Crosshairs stay on This clever device from Wixey is designed to project
centre at any table
or workpiece height a thin set of crosshairs onto your drill press table
• Rugged steel precisely where the drill bit will contact the workpiece
construction
• Uses 2 AA batteries I think we all recognise the value of ‘after market’ parts Using a combination of manual turret-swivelling – nice and
(not included) and accessories, especially when there seems to be some positive, no slack or jerk – and a little grub screw tweaking,
sort of synergy between the original product and that which the two lasers can be set up with as much precision as you’ve
Typical price: £27.12 has been manufactured especially to fit. A good example got the patience for. Step one is achieving true plumb for the
Web: www.machine- The Woodworker came across recently is this laser sighting red laser lines by using a small rectangular section of timber.
dro.co.uk device designed to fit onto a drill press or similar. It’s made by This needs to be bang square face to edge, so don’t just pick
Wixey, an American company, and is a nice blend of high-tech up any old scrap off the workshop floor. Once you’ve got the
PROS engineering and simple home-spun workaround; the sort lines squared down, it’s a straightforward task to line them
Removes worry of thing you might come up with yourself and be proud of. up on the target. For this you need to spot drill a tiny hole
from a drilling task to a test piece clamped to your drill press table (make sure
Simple reliability everything is solid and tightened securely), then zero the lines
CONS Faced with the not insubstantial problem of securing the in so that they converge at the very centre of the zero point.
Mildly challenging laser device to any number of random – and different – drilling During the set up I found the laser lines fairly easy to
to set up machines, the makers have thrown finesse out of the window focus on; on some kit they can be just a shimmering blur and
and gone instead for simple reliability, easily achieved, and difficult to pin down visually. Possibly the trickiest part of the
Doesn’t come a very good thing in my opinion. A good-sized example of the job was craning my neck to look back at the front of the press
with batteries ever popular hose clamp (or Jubilee Clip as it’s more commonly from the side; if your drill is open all round then you’re laughing.
known in the UK, land of its invention) is the method chosen In use the laser guide was as helpful as you’d imagine; you’ll
RATING: 4.5 out of 5 to fix the laser to the top of your drill press column, and is the be cutting out a fair bit of guess work and you can say goodbye
work of only a minute or two to securely achieve. I had slight to all that squinting between drill bit and workpiece. Not every
misgivings about the (borrowed) machine I was using as a test job will require it (especially those where you’re using needle-
host; it features a worklight just where the laser would be best pointed bits), but it’ll definitely pay off when you’ve got plenty
placed and so cramped things a bit, but fortunately not too of large-sized regular drill work ahead and you still need the
much to interfere and spoil the show. additional accuracy.

In use In summary
The two lasers sit turret-like at both extremities of the All in all, a good thing, nice and accurate and one
projecting shelf-plate with the battery pack in between. more accessory to make workshop life a bit easier. MC

Securely fastened to somewhere close Calibrating the laser lines to plumb. Preparing the target Red laser crosshairs in full effect
to the top of the workshop drill press Note proximity of drill press worklight

78 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 Bosch GKF 12V-8 compact router ON TEST

GKF 12 V-8 Professional Specification

No load speed:

compact router 13,000rpm

Voltage: 12V
Weight: 1.3kg
If you like the idea of cordless routing, then this new Dimensions: 144 × 80
× 252mm
offering from Bosch will certainly appeal, although Buying option: Body only
you may find a mains version will do the job quicker (no batteries, case or
charger)
The steady improvement in power tool engineering technology Bear in mind it’s only a small machine, so I wouldn’t be Battery compatibility:
– most notably of late the brushless motor – has brought expecting too much in terms of waste removal, and it doesn’t Bosch 12V Li-ion
about changes few could have foreseen or expected. Better have a fence so it’s pretty much restricted to edge work (with
batteries mean they can be smaller and the same goes for a bearing-guided bit); I think they could have called it a trimmer Price: From £166.80
just about everything else. I first used a battery-powered and been nearer the mark with its name. That said, after some Web: www.bosch-pt.
router about 15 years ago and felt that, while it had potential, initial experimentation, I treated it as a regular router and ran com
it wasn’t really what people wanted at the time. With increased some ovolo mouldings on a hardwood window job I’ve got in
reliance on (and familiarity with) cordless tools, regular and at the moment. I must confess I thought it would struggle a bit PROS
frequent changes of battery are now the norm and everyone but, though it heated up nicely, it completed the job (9 linear It’s small and cordless
has backups and spares. metres) on the same battery.
Although the sole plate is generously sized by proportion, CONS
Ingenuity in design & manufacture there’s sadly no room for a fence nor dust extraction. I found Mildly challenging
All of these factors have combined to bring us the Bosch that its slightly lower than normal running speed produced to set up
Professional 10.8V compact router. There’s no question that this coarser shavings than would be usual, so there is less fine
is a small router indeed, and yet another example of ingenuity in dust to contend with. Clearly this is a fixed-base machine Will do the job but a
design and manufacture. It comes in at a nice weight and is one so don’t expect any plunging, and it will take collets for 6 regular mains router
of the most comfortable power tools I’ve yet to hold, full control and 8mm as well as the default 14⁄ in. will do it quicker
being entirely possible with just the one hand. All is present and
obvious: a spindle lock to change bits, both macro (i.e. quick) In summary RATING: 4 out of 5
depth setting and a fine tuner to get the precision, then a simple While some may wonder why, there’s no denying that a
lock to keep it. The on and off switch also indicates battery levels dedicated trimmer on a job means your main router can
(at start) and that’s your lot. In fact, that’s all you need. be left set up for the heavy work. MC

The spindle lock pulls out for bit changes Tightening a bit in the collet The quick depth setting button (macro)

Adjusting the fine tuner, the lock is on the other side I ran this ovolo moulding with battery to spare

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 79

 ON TEST Low-angle planes

Low-angle jack planes

We take a close and detailed look at the development and uses
of low-angle jack planes before putting four of them to the test
As woodworkers, we are all pretty familiar with the standard metal body That’s either jack plane or scrub plane territory depending
plane, often referred to as a Bailey style after the inventor Leonard Bailey on how much you need to remove – so even back then they
and, once the patent expired, copied by every man and his dog who wanted must have employed marketing guys who didn’t do woodwork!
to sell a plane that was capable of the majority of tasks a plane should do. I can only assume the marketing bods looked at the size and
It’s proven its worth for well over a century now, and while a tweak or thought ‘jack plane length, jack plane use’ so assumed it was
two here or there has been made, some for the user’s benefit and others for initial roughing down and general planing.
for cost saving, it remains essentially the same plane.
However, it does have the odd shortcoming. While a great plane Butcher’s block model
in general, working interlocked or tricky grains can be difficult, even But while the plane followed the jack plane size, and in that
when it is finely set and the frog is moved up to close the mouth. respect was definitely suitable for working wider and longer
The bedding angle and bevel-down design dictates that it will only boards, the jobs a block plane is used for are a better indication
work at that particular angle, although there is a workaround, often of the bevel-up plane’s true abilities.
referred to as ‘the ruler trick’ and promoted by world-renowned Aside from the bevel-up jack, Stanley also had a similar slightly
cabinetmaker David Charlesworth. shorter butcher’s block model although that one didn’t hang around
To do this you effectively remove the flat back for which we all strive too long and is very rare.
by elevating the plane iron slightly via a small steel rule used as a wedge It may be that someone saw a real end-grain butcher’s block and realised
to raise a minute bevel on the flat side, effectively increasing the pitch there was no way a plane would be ideal for flattening it. I know back when
the iron cuts at. While it works well, you will need a replacement iron my granddad was the local butcher he used to have a block that would have
to ensure you can go back to the normal design if needed. needed a chainsaw taken to it first, to try and square it up and take the dents,
But what is the option if you don’t want to do this, or indeed, you dishes and chops out of it! Even so, the No.62 didn’t outstay its welcome,
often work gnarly timbers and want a more permanent solution? and, like many Stanley planes, it died out over time, seemingly running its
course. Why this happened is anyone’s guess, but as with the router kicking
Question of degree the multiplanes into touch, I’d guess newer technology and changes in
The blurb for a block plane normally touts it as being ideal for end-grain woodworking did plenty of damage, with cabinetmaking and solid timbers
work and suchlike, with a low-angle model seemingly the best for the job. being replaced by pre-veneered boards and mass-produced flat-pack stuff.
These low-angle models normally bed at 12°, so with a standard honing As sanders became available that could guarantee clean tear-free faces
angle of 30°, the cutting angle sits at 42°, just 3° shy of a Bailey frog. with less effort and time spent, even for specialist work, specially designed
But the design gives more of a slicing action, and with the adjustable planes took a back seat.
mouth you can close down to within a hair of the iron for very fine shavings.
It is not, however, the plane for working boards; a block plane is for finer Hand tool renaissance
work, cleaning up edges, easing in, fine-tuning and suchlike tasks. But there’s a renaissance in hand tools at the moment, with some older-
The ex-king of plane making, Stanley – seemingly having a plane for style planes that disappeared now coming back on the market. Some have
all occasions at one stage of its reign – took on this bevel-up block plane more appeal for collectors rather than true woodworkers, especially a couple
principle and introduced a model in its range, but beefed it up to full hand from Lie-Nielsen that were probably equally limited in their use when first
plane size. This No.62 was bizarrely marketed as a plane for making heavy invented! (Butt mortise plane anyone?) Lie-Nielsen tends to keep faith
cuts across the grain, not for finer work. with the original Stanley concepts but with the addition of fine tolerances,

80 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

plus superior castings and fittings. A Lie-Nielsen version usually outstrips the whole iron across, as is the case with the new Stanley, you need
the originals by a long way in these areas, but because of the closeness to hone slightly out of whack to accommodate it.
in design to the originals, can still be a little limiting in use, lacking finer Veritas sees the plane market as a whole new ball game and has devised
adjustments in some instances. simple, but while some of this company’s planes may not win any beauty
Stanley is seemingly looking closer at the market it once dominated, contests, they do a remarkable job. Its take on the bevel-up low-angle jack
and at the resurrection of some of its early models as well as variations plane is a great example, using simple grub screws tapped through the
on the theme by Veritas, and has relaunched the Sweetheart brand and wings of the plane to restrict the iron at the mouth so that when the
logo. This was seen as the golden era of Stanley, and these tools are lateral lever is used, it actually skews rather than slewing across. This
highly sought. allows you to make fine adjustments very effectively and retain that
In doing so, Stanley has come up with some new designs of its own position easily after honing.
in traditional smoothing, block and shoulder planes, but the new No.62 That simplicity is replicated on the mouth. Being able to close the
remains pretty faithful to the original. In saying that, however, there’s little mouth down is useful to minimise tear-out; to keep the iron from coming
that could be altered because it’s such a simple tool, being just a long block into contact with the mouth when you close it right down there’s a small
plane. Although the lateral movement is not a strong point, there’s little, brass knob that acts as a stop to set the aperture. Again, it’s handy for
if any, usable movement for squaring the iron to the sole. moving from fine mouth to open mouth and back quickly and easily.

Accurate machining Wild grain action

This is a problem with low-angle planes in general. The need for ultra- But it’s more about what the bevel-up can do that makes it worthwhile
accurate machining is paramount because a discrepancy in the bedding adding one to your kit. It will do the same work as a standard jack, so you
angle is magnified as the angle lowers, so the iron will sit slightly askew. can still do the fast, rough prep work as well as shooting and straightening
An adjuster or some play in the fit between the side wing and the iron up stock, but it also addresses the shortcomings of the Bailey design to
will get over this, but if the fit is too tight or the adjuster simply moves take on wild grains. AK

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 81

 ON TEST Low-angle planes

Specification
Made in: USA
Blade: 51 × 4.6mm
Weight: 2.05kg
Lie-Nielsen No.62
This plane is actually Thomas Lie-Nielsen’s favourite product from his entire
Typical price: £243.47 range of American tools, which says something about its pedigree. It’s based
(please note that prices on the largest Stanley low-angle plane produced during the early 1940s. The
may be subject to polished cherry handles are beautifully contoured and it’s the lightest tool we
change without notice) tested. Not surprisingly, it performs faultlessly and the manganese bronze
Web: www.axminster. cap iron certainly adds a degree of elegance. With no lateral adjuster, the
com edge of the blade must be dead square when it comes to regrinding, though
you can nudge it to one side if necessary when tightening the cap iron screw.
RATING: 5 out of 5 Both toothed and scraper blades are available for this superb tool. You alter the mouth opening with this hefty brass lever

Blade travel is precise with this stainless steel screw The polished lever cap is from cast manganese bronze

82 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 Quangsheng Specification
Made in: China
Blade: 51 × 3.1mm

No.62
Weight: 2.45kg

Typical price: £138.50

Web: www.
The Quangsheng is a real Asian beauty, with polished bubinga workshopheaven.com
handles. In fact, its sleek profile reminds me of those gorgeous
mahogany speedboats from the early 20th century. Sole edges need RATING: 4 out of 5
softening a tad with a needle file, but this is nothing too drastic. You can
adjust the mouth from 8mm right down to zero, a facility that is not possible
on the other planes. The blade is a bit thinner and did not seem to keep its
edge as long as the rest either, which I suspect is because it’s not made from
A2 steel. You do get two extra blades provided, though, which is fantastic.
If your budget is tight, then the Quangsheng is the plane to choose.

The Quangsheng’s mouth is set with this brass lever Unlike the other planes, this lever cap is stainless steel A Norris-style adjuster provides lateral movement

Stanley Specification
Made in: China
Blade: 51 × 3.1mm
Weight: 2.45kg

Sweetheart
In isolation you may be quite impressed with the
Typical price:
From $122.37
Web: www.
Sweetheart. Its appearance is quite pleasing, especially stanleytools.co.uk
when you consider standard contemporary Stanley bench
planes with their nasty plastic handles. Alongside its rivals RATING: 3.5 out of 5
here it’s just a bit awkward and slightly crude, though. The cherry
rear handle needs some TLC with abrasives to make it really comfortable,
while the front adjustable plate needs filing so it will slide smoothly. This
works, but tends to stick. You can’t actually close the mouth completely
down to zero for very fine cuts on wild grain, but it’s not bad.
Surprisingly, the Stanley actually has the thickest blade and is capable
of decent work, but not straight out of the box. At present the Sweetheart
is only available in North America, hence the dollar price above, so you’ll need
to add exchange rates and postage if you want to get your hands on one.

The substantial brass lever for closing the mouth Made from aluminium, the lever cap is incredibly light The traditional Norris-pattern lateral blade adjuster

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 83

 ON TEST Low-angle planes

Specification
Made in: Canada
Blade: 56 × 4.5mm
Veritas Low Angle
Jack Plane
Weight: 2.55kg

Typical prices:
£250.18 – with (O1
blade); £259.49 –with Veritas tools are known for their innovative features,
PM-V11 blade (please this jack plane being no exception. Longer, wider and
note that prices may heavier than the rest, it may not suit everybody. As
be subject to change the most expensive plane in the test, what makes
without notice) it so special? Besides build quality, it’s the various
Web: www.brimarc. adjustments that just work reliably and smoothly, as
com they should. The lateral adjuster moves nicely, while
the screw stop on the front plate is clever and saves
RATING: 5 out of 5 this hitting the cutting edge. You can even close the
mouth right down to zero. Two screws down through
the rear handle ensure this remains rock-solid. Various blade
options are available, making the Veritas a pretty versatile tool.

You slacken off the knob to slide the throat plate back Rotating this screw prevents the plate from hitting the blade

The aluminium lever cap is a snug fit and fast to tighten This is the best lateral adjuster mechanism of the lot

Conclusion be quite up there with the North American planes, but it’s not far behind the
Before testing, I sharpened each plane iron using a honing gauge to Lie-Nielsen. It works extremely well, plus you get two extra blades thrown in.
achieve a consistent edge. To give them a good workout I subjected All the planes worked well enough with a shooting board, the Veritas
each tool to a variety of timbers: pine, sapele, lacewood, iroko, some being slightly easier to hold with its dimple to accommodate your thumb.
wild Spanish olive and quartersawn European oak. And you can buy a hot-dog handle for the Lie-Nielsen if you tend to do a
In terms of build quality, both the Lie-Nielsen and Veritas planes are lot of shooting.
superb. The American tool is obviously more traditional and delightful As something of a traditionalist, I’ve always tended to favour Lie-
to use. If you’re willing to part with quite a lot more cash, the Canadian Nielsen tools over the Veritas equivalents – I find some of the Canadian
cousin offers some clever features. I particularly liked the lateral adjuster, bench planes quite awkward to use – but if I had to choose an overall
while the grub screws mean you can set the blade very precisely – perhaps winner in this test it would just be the Veritas. On wider boards I found
too fiddly for some. To be honest I found the Stanley a bit disappointing. the slightly wider blade and extra weight helped planing performance,
While the three other contenders are dressed for the ball, the Mexican while refinements such as the lateral adjuster are far better than on the
is still in work gear and is a bit rough around the edges. Yep, it does its Stanley and Quangsheng. Actually, although the Lie-Nielsen does not
job, but it’s not refined... have this Norris-type adjuster, the American plane works perfectly well
There’s no question about best value here. The Quangsheng may not without one. PD

84 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

Classifieds
SPECIALIST EQUIPMENT & WOOD FINISHES

www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 85

Classifieds
COURSES, SPECIALIST TOOLS & TIMBER SUPPLIES

86 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 AUCTIONS, TOOLS FOR SALE & WOOD FINISHES

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www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 87

 Classifieds
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88 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 Buy & sell MARKETPLACE

FOR SALE
Multico-Pro-Mex TWL 1000 woodturning lathe
– in good condition; £250
07716 994 616 (Derby)

Metabo BAS 317 precision bandsaw – in good

Condition; £100
07716 994 616 (Derby)

Stanley 04 smoothing plane; £25; Stanley 05 jack

plane; £38 – both in very good condition
0208 641 4238 (Surrey)
Record RPMS-R router centre complete with
AEG 2050 E 12 ⁄ in router and RSDE dust extractor
– all in very good condition; £275
01656 654 302 (South Wales)

Walker turner bench-top spindle moulder;

cast-iron; good quality; in good working order;
APTC M950 lathe – six-speed, plus many extras 1
⁄ hp single phase motor; £130
2

including two chucks and revolving centres – 01684 592 968 (Worcs)
in very good condition; call for details; buyer
collects – £499 Apollo Woodpecker lathe – 34in bed plus Coronet Minor with circular saw table; sanding
01284 705 656 (Bury St Edmunds) combination chuck; £300 – buyer collects mortising table; planer with thicknesser
07790 944 984 (Shropshire) attachment; single phase; good condition; £230
Woodturning workshop contents for sale 01684 592 968 (Worcs)
– including lathes, bandsaw, pillar drill, plus Tormek T4 with woodturner’s accessory kit,
lots of hand tools and wood for turning stone grader, diamond stone turning wheel, Jet JSS16 scrollsaw; brand-new; never used;
01628 628 147 knife jig, square edge jig, turning tool setter bought in error; £40 – buyer collects
and honing compound; £450 – buyer collects 01432 270 757 (Hereford)
Axminster CT-150 planer/jointer; £250; CT-330 01233 638 039 (Kent)
thicknesser; £250; Multico Supershop 5-in-1; WANTED
£300; shop vac; £20 150mm bench-top planer/thicknesser; £150 Spiers/Norris/Henley planes wanted by
01604 870 380 (Northants) – buyer collects private collector; any quote beaten. Ring Ron Lowe
01233 638 039 (Kent) on 01530 834 581 (Leics)
Scheppach TS 2010 table saw with
side extension, sliding table, outfeed table For sale – various Woodworker magazines Woodworking hand tools, especially old
and stand – in good condition; £350 from 1946–2013. All are in pristine condition. wood and metal planes, wanted by collector. Write
07976 692 359 (Twickenham) A wonderful collector’s item – selling due to to Mr B Jackson, 10 Ayr Close, Stamford PE9 2TS
bereavement. Please call to make an offer; or call 01780 751 768 (Lincs)
DeWalt DWS520 240V plunge saw. Two tracks, collection only
pair clamps, joining rail & T-square attachment; 07847 394 507 (Derbyshire) Woodworking tools: planes by Norris, Spiers,
£175 Mathieson, Preston, Slater, etc. brass braces,
01322 526 897 (Kent) Record Power WG200 8in wet stone sharpening interesting rules and spirit levels; top prices paid,
system, complete with accessories. Cost £150, auction prices beaten 01647 432 841 (Devon)
Carving chisels by Addis, Kirschen and Cannon unused, still in box; selling for £100
– 39 in box; all good to go; £200 01322 664 388 (Kent) Woodworking bench by Sjöbergs or similar
07904 433 520 (Newark) 07541 409 835 (Leeds)
Walker turner bench-top spindle moulder;
Woodstar 200mm planer/thicknesser; cast-iron; good quality; in good working order; Startrite K260 Universal combination
£125 – collection only 1
⁄ hp single phase motor; £130
2 machine or similar
01572 823 874 (Rutland) 01684 592 968 (Worcs) 07541 409 835 (Leeds)

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www.getwoodworking.com WW November 2017 89

 WOODWORK Ladder maker’s diary

Welcome to
Bugbrooke Church
This month we join Stan Clark as
he shares his memories of working
at his local church, struggling to master
the organ, and meeting a famous visitor

D
uring the period that I worked for Mr Harold Ward, Bugbrooke’s
well known ladder maker and undertaker, I was often asked to
pump the church organ so it could be played during the funeral
service. It had a very large set of bellows along with a large reservoir
for the air, and was very old and dusty. One time while I was pumping the
handle, quite a large amount of dust came off it and started to make me
sneeze. While trying to stifle the sound of my sneezing, I just happened to
quaver the pump handle instead of a nice steady action, and found that the
whole pump and reservoir started to oscillate. This affected the air that was
working the organ, and the notes that were being played started quavering
even though I had gone back to pumping nice and smoothly, and up until the
end of the hymn the music was not as it should have been. The looks on the
faces of some of the mourners was quite amusing, and luckily a few of them
saw the funny side of it and broke into lovely smiles.

Organ troubles
At the end of the hymn, while the Rector was talking about the deceased
and saying several prayers, the organist came and looked at the whole setup
as he told me that it had never done this before, but due to the short period
of not having to pump, it had settled down and the next hymn went nice and
steady; the organ played a treat with no playing up.
After the funeral was over and we had filled in the grave and put the
flowers on top of it, I was asked to go and see the organist before we left.
I thought that he was going to tell me off, but he asked me to make it
oscillate as it did during the service. I told him that it had come about because
I started to sneeze, and he asked me to make the thing quaver once more
while he sat and started to play. He got quite a thrill out of doing so and
found it very amusing, for it was the first time it had ever been made to
oscillate in such a way. From what I gather, it was not long after that they
purchased an electric pump, for once folk knew that it would start to oscillate,
everyone was making it do so to the annoyance of others. The (possibly) ancient ladder leading to the tower at Bugbrooke Church

Chasing Spires I said that he had asked me to keep an eye out for his visitor, and as I
Another time I was asked to dig a grave next to the path near to the church’s showed him the way into the church he told me he had come to look at
main South Door. On arrival the Rev Charles Harrison came out from the the large wooden screen that was inside.
church to show me the spot where the grave needed digging, and before The Rev Harrison seemed so excited on meeting this man, for when
he returned back to his vestry, he asked me to keep an eye open for a they shook hands it seemed as though they were never going to let go of
gentleman who was coming to visit the church that day. one another – I had no idea as to how famous he was. After he had been
I was merrily digging away and was down to about waist high, when a shown around the inside and outside of the church, and made lots of notes
strange looking fellow wearing a long flowing trench coat and a funny shaped in his notebook, he departed and the Rev Charles Harrison told me that he
hat came walking up the path towards me. He asked me if I was the church’s was the Poet Laureate. But before he left, he came back to the grave with
sexton, and not knowing (for our family were mainly chapel), I replied “No, me, and sat and talked while I worked away. He asked me all about myself
I am just a grave digger.” “All the same,” he replied laughing and joking, and the type of work I did for a living, along with asking about my family,
“sexton is the name for a grave digger within the church.” and how long we had lived in Bugbrooke.
He told me his name was Mr John Betjeman and asked me as to what From what I can gather at the time he was writing a book about churches
my name was and to the whereabouts of the Rector, for he said that he called Chasing Spires. Looking back it was quite an honour to have met the
was expecting him. said man. ww

NEXT MONTH
Join us next month for more stories from Stan and his colleagues in the ladder making shop. And if any other readers have a story to tell,
we’d be glad to listen. Just write to editor.ww@mytimemedia.com and we’ll see how we get on

90 WW November 2017 www.getwoodworking.com

 only
£187.96
inc. VAT

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£149
Instructional DVD
Fantastic Value Package
Includes the following
accessories worth over £131

WG250/K Diamond
This indispensable DVD covers in detail the whole process of sharpening, from finding and Trueing Tool
setting the correct cutting angles to easily achieving razor sharp edges on even the most (Worth £49.99)
challenging of tools. Duration: 74 minutes.
WG250/C Straight
Edge Jig
(Worth £24.99)
12 mm support bar Adjustable torque Variable speed 150 - 250 rpm

WG250/T Angle
Setting Gauge
(Worth £12.99)

WG250/S Honing
Compound
(Worth £15.99)

WG250/R Stone Grader

(Worth £15.99)

WG250/U Angle Finder

(Worth £11.99)

Incorporating some of the most famous

brands in woodworking, Record Power’s

www.recordpower.co.uk Tel: 01246 571 020 roots stretch back over 100 years.