Gemstones

Beginning Jewelry Sales

Diamond Council of America © 2014
Gemstones

In This Lesson:
• The Gem World
• Diamond
• Sapphire
• Ruby
• Emerald
• Cultured Pearls

THE GEM WORLD

In the widest sense, the gem world includes an amazing variety of mate-
rials used for jewelry and other ornamental purposes. Most of these can be
divided into two broad categories – diamonds and colored gemstones.
Diamonds are most important by far. They have a unique beauty and an
unequaled depth of meaning. Treasured throughout history, they’ve become
an integral part of modern culture.
The category of colored gemstones includes all gems other than diamond
– sapphire, ruby, emerald, cultured pearls, etc. Most of these have long
histories of their own, and many capture the romance of faraway places. As
a result, colored gemstones have a prominent place in the
selection of products you can offer customers who
visit your store.
You can never know too much about
diamonds or colored gemstones, and the
learning process will continue throughout
your career as a jewelry sales professional.
But this lesson will give you knowledge and
skills you can use right away. At the same time,
you’ll gain a solid foundation on which to build.

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When you continue your education beyond this course,

the DCA Diamond and Colored Gemstone courses can help
you take a giant step toward developing top-level expertise
in the amazing world of gems.

Lesson Objectives
When you have successfully completed
this lesson, you will be able to:
• Present the 4Cs of diamond value.
• Explain how value factors relate to beauty and quality.
• Present sapphire, ruby, emerald and cultured pearls.
• Discuss factors that affect quality and value for these gems.
• Use history and folklore to build interest in them.

DIAMOND
Every diamond is unique, but all diamonds have
certain characteristics that affect their value. These charac-
teristics are known as the 4Cs, and they are carat weight,
clarity, color, and cut.
In order to sell diamonds and diamond jewelry
successfully, you will eventually have to master a great
deal of product knowledge. Many customers today are
highly informed about the 4Cs, and they gauge jewelry
sales professionals by their expertise in this particular
subject. So, that’s where you need to begin.

Carat Weight
Carat weight is a good place to begin discussing the
In order to sell diamonds and diamond 4Cs because it’s easy to understand, and many customers
jewelry successfully, you will eventually have
to master a great deal of product knowledge.
already know something about it. When you explain how
weight relates to cost, you also provide information that’s
Photo courtesy Shutterstock GWimages.
essential for the purchase decision. You can build trust in
your expertise and appreciation for your product too.

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The Metric Carat

The standard unit of weight for diamonds is the metric carat, which equals exactly
1/5 gram. In US measurements that’s approximately 7/1000 ounce. For even greater
precision, the carat is subdivided into 100 equal units called points.
In the US, diamond weight is measured to 1/1000 carat and rounded to the nearest
1/100 carat. That makes the accuracy within 1/2 point – or 35 millionths of an ounce.
This extreme precision is required by industry standards and FTC guidelines.

Stating Carat Weight

Carat weight is usually stated in decimal numbers, like 0.50
and 1.25 carat, or in common fractions – 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 carat,
Fraction Weight
etc. But within the diamond industry, weight fractions are used
9/10 ............. 0.90 - 0.95 ct
7/8 ............... 0.84 - 0.89
approximately. They refer to small ranges of weight rather than
3/4 ............... 0.70 - 0.83 to exact decimal equivalents. For example, a 3/4-carat diamond
5/8 ............... 0.57 - 0.69 might actually weigh 0.70 to 0.83 carat.
1/2 ............... 0.47 - 0.56
If you use fractions with customers, explain them carefully.
3/8 ............... 0.38 - 0.46
1/3 ............... 0.30 - 0.37
This is also required under FTC guidelines.
1/4 ............... 0.23 - 0.29 When you’re showing a diamond that weighs 0.48 carat, you
1/5 ............... 0.18 - 0.22
might first say “forty-eight hundredths of a carat” or “forty-eight
1/6 ............... 0.15 - 0.17
points.” Next you could clarify, “That’s about half a carat,” and
1/8 ............... 0.12 - 0.14
1/10 ............. 0.09 - 0.11 then use the fraction in the rest of your presentation.

Weight and Value

To help customers understand carat weight’s effect on value,
explain that a diamond’s cost largely depends on natural rarity. A
1-carat diamond is much more rare than two 1/2-carat diamonds
of similar quality. Therefore, it will be more expensive than both
the smaller diamonds combined.
Differences in rarity are reflected by a diamond’s per-carat
price, which is the cost for each carat. Stating per-carat prices can
help customers make comparisons. If you say, “This diamond is
A 1-carat diamond is much more $2,000 per carat, and this one is $3,000 per carat,” the customer
rare than two 1/2-carat diamonds of immediately understands there are significant differences.
similar quality. Explaining those differences can then help you lead the customer
Photo courtesy Shutterstock AptTone. toward a purchase decision.

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You can find a diamond’s per-carat price by dividing the

total cost by the weight. For example, if the cost is $1,350
and the weight is 0.75 ct: $1,350 ÷ 0.75 = $1,800 per carat.
(You can do this only if you know the cost of the diamond
alone, however. If the price includes both the diamond and the
mounting, you cannot calculate the per-carat price.)

Customers and Weight

Some customers decide on the carat weight they want
before they visit your store. With other customers, a good
way to begin the decision-making process is to present a
sequence of sizes. You might start with a 1-carat diamond. If
the customer indicates that’s too expensive, acknowledge the
objection and then show progressively smaller sizes – 9/10,
3/4, 1/2 carat – until you receive a positive response. At the
same time you can begin to discuss other value factors.
After a customer expresses a preference concerning
weight, validate it. This can be as simple as agreeing “Yes,
that’s an excellent size.” But fact-based statements are
A good way to begin the
stronger. For example, the average weight range for the center decision-making process is to
diamond in an engagement ring is currently about 1/2 to 1 present a sequence of sizes.
carat. If a diamond weighs more than that, you can say it’s Photo courtesy Shutterstock SVLuma.
larger than the diamonds most women receive.

Solving Weight Dilemmas

When there’s a discrepancy between the carat weight a customer
desires and the amount he or she can afford, there are some options
you can present to solve the dilemma. One is moving down a weight
category – say, from 1 carat to 9/10 carat. Because both the per-carat
price and the weight are less, the cost will be significantly lower. But
only an expert would notice the difference in appearance.
Another good option is compromising a bit on the other Cs –
particularly clarity or color. Slight differences in these factors are
apparent only to experts, yet they have a sizable impact on value.
Suggesting this alternative can also create a perfect opening for your
discussion of these factors.

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Clarity
Clarity is usually an easy C to present. Many customers under-
stand the basic concept and know that diamonds have “flaws” (a
word you – as a jewelry professional – should never use). This prior
knowledge gives you a head start. However, you still have to provide
the information that’s needed for a purchase decision. You can also
use clarity to build trust and set the stage for the less familiar value
factors of color and cut.
You might start by saying that clarity can be defined as a Clarity is a diamond’s freedom
diamond’s freedom from features that are technically classified as from inclusions or blemishes.
blemishes or inclusions. Blemishes are surface irregularities such as
scratches. Inclusions are internal – for example, tiny crystals of other
minerals. Both are also known as clarity characteristics.

Judging Clarity
To judge clarity, a trained grader examines the diamond using
10-power magnification. First, the grader finds all the character-
istics. Then he or she assigns the clarity grade that reflects their
visibility, plus any impact they might have on normal appearance
or durability.
The face-up view normally counts most in setting the grade,
because that’s how the diamond is seen when it’s mounted.

Clarity Grades
A key step in presenting clarity is stating the clarity grade and
explaining what it means – briefly but clearly. To do this, you
have to know the grading system your store uses.
Many stores today employ the system originally developed by
the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). It consists of descrip-
tive terms with the well-known abbreviations VVS, VS, SI, and so
forth.
Most professional lab graders use a
binocular microscope to grade clarity. To explain one of these grades, you might say something like,
Photo courtesy GIA GEM Instruments. “This diamond has a clarity grade of SI1 -- or slightly included,
level one. It has characteristics that a trained grader can easily
see under magnification, but which don’t affect the diamond’s
beauty.”

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Clarity and Value

Clarity’s effect on value is based on rarity. Almost all
diamonds have clarity characteristics. The less significant Clarity’s
these are, the higher the clarity grade will be. The higher
the grade, the greater the rarity and the more expensive the
effect on
diamond will be. But in most grades, the characteristics value is
have little or no effect on the diamond’s appearance.
For customers who seem concerned about clarity char-
based on
acteristics, explain that these come from events in the rarity.
life of the diamond. Some are natural byproducts of the
diamond’s growth inside the Earth. Others can be caused
by the stresses involved in mining or processing. You might
also point out that clarity characteristics have benefits. Like
a person’s features, they make the diamond unique and
identifiable.

Presenting Clarity
When you’re talking about clarity characteristics, it’s best to stick
with that term specifically. Be careful to avoid negative-sounding
words like “flaw” or “imperfection.” Even “blemish” and “inclusion”
sound negative to many customers.
If you have a microscope, you can invite customers to inspect
diamonds for themselves. That’s the best way to take the mystery out
of this C.
Effective profiling enables you to help customers select the right
diamond. Appearance and cost are important, but so are personal
concerns and priorities. To someone who’s quality-conscious, try
presenting benefits related to rarity and high standards. For others, it’s
usually better to point out the precision – or pickiness – of grading
distinctions, and then focus on the diamond’s beauty and individuality.
You might also suggest the possibility of trading a little in clarity to
It’s necessary to keep the obtain a larger carat weight.
relationship between clarity
and beauty in perspective. The type of jewelry can be a consideration as well. Most people
Photo courtesy JB Star.
would say high clarity is more important for diamonds in rings than in
other types of jewelry. That’s because rings – especially for engage-
ments and anniversaries – typically receive close inspections from
family, friends, and acquaintances.

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Diamond Clarity Grades

T his table summarizes the Diamond Clarity Grade scale that was originally devel-
oped by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), and is now widely used
throughout the jewelry industry.
Grade Abbrev. Description

Flawless FL No inclusions or blemishes visible at 10x.

Internally Flawless IF No inclusions and only minor blemishes visible at 10x.

Very, Very Slightly Included VVS1 Minute inclusions extremely difficult to see at 10x.

VVS2 Minute inclusions very difficult to see at 10x.

Very Slightly Included VS1 Minor inclusions fairly difficult to see at 10x.

VS2 Minor inclusions fairly easy to see at 10x.

Slightly Included SI1 Noticeable inclusions easy to see at 10x.

SI2 Noticeable inclusions very easy to see at 10x.

Included I1 Significant inclusions usually visible without magnification.

I2 Inclusions obvious without magnification and may be affecting durability.

I3 Inclusions very obvious without magnification and definitely threatening durability.

Note: All these grade descriptions are based on a skilled grader working with
proper magnification and lighting under controlled conditions.

Color
Color has a critical place in your diamond presentations.
It’s a difficult C for some customers to grasp, but it’s an essen-
tial part of the complete value picture that’s needed to make
purchase decisions.

Diamond Colors
Since many people think all diamonds are colorless,
you might begin by sharing a little background information.
The diamond color palette includes
Diamonds actually occur in a wide array of colors, but most
every hue in the spectrum. range from nearly colorless to light yellow, brown, or gray.

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Absolutely colorless diamonds are rare, but they’re considered part of

the normal market range.
Diamonds with natural tints of other hues – as well as deeper shades The higher
of yellow or brown – are classified as fancy color. Nowadays, artificial
treatments can also add or subtract color in diamonds. the color
Color Grades
grade,
The concept of diamond color grades is simple and straightforward. the greater
Within the normal range, the less color a diamond has, the higher its
grade. the rarity
The most widely used color grading system is the one that was devel- and cost.
oped by GIA. It has 23 letter grades running from D (colorless) to Z (light
yellow, brown, or gray). Beyond Z the color is fancy.

Diamond Color Grades

Here’s how GIA color grades correlate with diamond appearance:
D – Absolutely colorless.
E and F – Virtually colorless. Only experts can detect color under grading
conditions.
G, H, and I – Near colorless; normally appear colorless when mounted in jew-
elry.
J, K, and L – Faintly tinted; under 1/2 carat usually appear colorless when
mounted; larger diamonds may show a slight tint.
M-Z
– Moving from very lightly to lightly tinted, the color is increasingly
visible.
Diamonds darker than Z are fancy color.

Color and Value

Like carat weight and clarity, color’s effect on value is based on
natural rarity. The higher the color grade, the greater the rarity and cost.
This concept is easy enough to understand. But what’s difficult
for most customers to grasp is how subtle the differences between the
grades are. For example, most people aren’t likely to see color in a
diamond that falls within the top third of the GIA scale – especially if
Diamonds with yellowish tints
were formerly called “capes.” it’s mounted.

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Judging Color
To evaluate a diamond’s color, a trained grader compares
it to diamonds of known color – called master stones – under
carefully controlled conditions. This allows for very precise
color distinctions.
Diamonds are turned face down for color
Sophisticated instruments known as colorimeters can also grading to minimize reflections.
grade color in many diamonds. But these haven’t achieved the Photo courtesy JCK.
versatility and consistent precision of the expert human eye
combined with master stones and proper conditions.

Presenting Color
A customer’s decision about color may depend on cost,
personal preferences, and concepts regarding quality. To keep
from clouding these issues, be careful in your initial discussion
of this C. Avoid negative terms like “poor-color” or “off-color.”
Instead say “more tinted” or “warmer grade.”
A simple but effective way to explain the color grade is to
indicate the diamond’s position on a chart that shows the entire
grade scale. To illustrate the differences between grades, you
might call to mind more familiar examples, like the differences in
various “white” papers, paints, or fabrics.
When price or carat weight appears to be a customer’s main
concern, emphasize the precision of grading and downplay the
color grade’s link with visual appeal. A diamond of any grade can
be beautiful. You might also suggest that by giving up a little in
a factor where it’s difficult to see small differences, the customer
You can point out that many people can save money or own a larger diamond. If the customer finds
feel diamonds which show some a diamond with obvious color attractive, reinforce this. You can
color have a warmer, richer beauty.
point out that many people feel diamonds which show some color
have a warmer, richer beauty.
On the other hand, with customers for whom quality is most
important, stress that while color distinctions are subtle, they are
apparent to the expert eye. Truly colorless diamonds are very
rare, and for centuries they’ve been considered the most beautiful.

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More Points About Color

Here are a few more points to remember about diamond color:
• The larger the diamond, the more obvious any tint will be.
• Color is easier to see in some cutting styles than in others. For example, an
H-color emerald cut will usually appear to have more color than an H-color
round brilliant.
• Color tends to be scrutinized more in rings than in other types of jewelry.
• Yellow gold masks traces of yellow or brown and enhances darker tones
of these colors. Platinum and other white metals dramatize colorless
diamonds, but can make yellow or brown tints stand out unflatteringly.
• Men are often willing to accept more color than women are. So, when
you’re helping a man select a diamond for a woman, be careful not to let
him choose one she’ll think is “too yellow.”

Cut
From a scientific standpoint, cut is the most complicated of
the 4Cs. But it’s also the top factor in beauty for most diamonds
– and today’s customers want to know about it. So, you need to
be ready to supply information, answer questions, and provide
guidance on this complex yet crucial C.

Defining “Cut”
The term “cut” actually has two distinct meanings. One
refers to the diamond’s shape and faceting style – round bril-
liant, princess cut, marquise, and so forth. This is the meaning
All sorts of cutting shapes are most customers are familiar with.
possible with diamonds.
When it comes to quality, however, cut involves three
factors – proportions, symmetry, and polish.
• Proportions – These are the relative sizes and angles of
the diamond’s parts and facets.
• Symmetry – This is the precision of the cut design’s
execution.
• Polish – The smoothness and luster of the diamond’s
surfaces.

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Optical Performance
A well-cut diamond gathers light from many directions, and then
reflects that light outward again to dazzle the eyes of beholders.
This optical performance is traditionally described in terms of three
components – brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation.
• Brilliance – This is the total intensity of white light reflected
from the diamond’s surface and interior. It’s the diamond’s
brightness.
• Dispersion – This is the prism-like effect of light splitting
Dispersion - or fire - is the multi-
into rainbow colors. It’s the diamond’s fire. colored flashes of light from a well-
cut diamond.
• Scintillation – This is the dance of bright reflections that’s
seen as the diamond, the light, or the observer moves – in other
words, the diamond’s sparkle.
In recent years, researchers have analyzed these effects in
various ways, sometimes using different terms or definitions. But
the quantity and quality of light reflections will always be the key to
diamond’s optical performance.
Proportions largely govern that performance. Each facet and
every angle counts. Symmetry and polish usually reflect the care
that went into the cutting process.

Cutting for Quality, Beauty, and Value

Cutting for high light performance usually means
high light sacrificing much of the original diamond crystal’s
weight. This raises the per-carat price of the finished
performance diamond. Taking the time and trouble to produce
usually means excellent symmetry and polish also adds to the cost.
But the result is a diamond of exceptional beauty and
sacrificing craftsmanship.

much of the On the other hand, proportions can be adjusted

to save extra weight, and putting less effort into
original diamond symmetry or polish reduces labor. This allows
diamonds to be sold at lower per-carat prices.
crystal’s weight. However, there are tradeoffs.

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Proportion variations can be especially important. Minor varia-

tions don’t have much effect, but significant variations can make a
diamond look watery or dark. Major variations have serious conse-
quences for beauty. They can also make a diamond look small for
its weight, or leave it more likely to chip or break.

Grading Cut
Evaluating diamond cut quality takes advanced training.
Sophisticated instruments and computer programs are now used to
assess proportions. Finish is judged much like clarity, with graders
using magnification to examine symmetry and polish characteristics.
A number of cut grading systems currently exist. GIA grades cut
quality as Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, or Poor.

Presenting Cut
As with other Cs, you need to fit your presentation of
cut quality to the diamonds you offer and the customers
you serve. If you’re showing high-grade cuts, emphasize
their superior light performance and the skilled labor that’s
required to produce them. You can say that a diamond with
good or medium cut quality offers an attractive balance of
appearance and cost.
Since comparison-shopping is common today, you need
to make customers aware that poor cut quality is often
the hidden factor in “discount” diamonds. Two diamonds
that are equal in all the other Cs can differ substantially in
beauty and value just because of differences in the quality
of cut.
If you help customers see the difference that
fine cutting makes, this complicated C can A simple demonstration can help you educate
almost sell itself. customers about cut quality, and alert them to compromises
that affect beauty and value. If you help customers see the
difference that fine cutting makes, this complicated C can
almost sell itself.

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Cut Shapes and Styles

T he round brilliant – sometimes called the standard round brilliant – is the

top-selling diamond cut shape and style in most markets. Its popularity is no acci-
dent, either. You can tell customers that the design evolved over hundreds of years,
along with cutting technology, scientific understanding of light, and modern apprecia-
tion of diamond’s beauty. The round brilliant produces high weight yield from most
diamond crystals. It can also maximize diamond’s brilliance, dispersion, and scintilla-
tion.
Any shape other than round is classified as a fancy
shape. Contemporary classics include the emerald cut,
princess, oval, pear, heart, and marquise. (The last
term is usually pronounced mar-KEEZ, but mar-KEE also is
accepted.)
In recent years, the interplay between technology, sci-
ence, and creativity has produced a constantly expanding
selection of diamond shapes and styles. Many are varia-
tions or updates of traditional cuts.
An increasing number of fancy shapes are now being
branded. Frequently trademarked and protected by copy-
right, these are available exclusively from the firms that
developed them or licensed the right to produce or market
them.
Some customers ask why diamonds are cut into dif-
ferent shapes. While it’s usually impossible to know the
answer for a specific diamond, you can give some likely
reasons. For example, cutters often base the cut’s shape on
the original shape of the diamond crystal. They may also
choose a particular shape in order to eliminate inclusions
or make them less obvious.
Whatever the diamond’s shape or style, you can say
the cut was chosen to produce maximum beauty and
value.

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SAPPHIRE
Sapphire is a colored gemstone favorite with
modern jewelry consumers. Its popularity also is
deeply rooted in the past. Photo courtesy Rozaliya.

Connections with Royalty

You can tell customers that sapphire has been
closely associated with royalty throughout history.
Here are three great examples you can use to illustrate
that point:
• In Roman times, kings and queens wore
sapphires to protect themselves from danger.
• The oldest gem in the British Crown Jewels is
a sapphire that belonged to King Edward the
Confessor (who died in 1066).
• When Lady Diana Spencer – the future Princess
Di – became engaged to England’s Prince
Charles in 1981, she received a sapphire In Roman times, kings and queens wore
ring. And when Diana’s son, Prince William, sapphires to protect themselves from
proposed to Kate Middleton in 2010, he gave danger.
her the same ring his mother had received. Photo courtesy Shutterstock Vladimir Wrangel.

Sapphire Symbolism and Lore

Sapphire traditionally signifies truth, sincerity, and
faithfulness. Since the 1100s, members of the clergy
have worn sapphires as symbols of heaven, and for
centuries people believed that simply owning a sapphire
would bring blessings.
During the Middle Ages, it was thought that wizards
used sapphires to control spirits and understand proph-
ecies – which would make this the perfect gem for a
Harry Potter fan!
Today sapphire is the birthstone for September,
Autumn, and the zodiac sign of Taurus. It’s also the offi-
Photo courtesy Shutterstock Africa Studio.
cial gem for the 5th and 45th wedding anniversaries.

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Science Background
The English word “sapphire” comes from the Greek
“sappheiros,” which was once used for all dark blue gems.
However, sapphire is now recognized as a variety of the
mineral species known as corundum. Ruby is another
corundum variety.
From a scientific standpoint, corundum that’s red is
classified as ruby, while any other color is sapphire. The
complete sapphire palette includes green, yellow, orange,
violet, purple, and pink. Sapphire is also available completely colorless, often referred to as “white
sapphire.” In the jewelry industry, the term “sapphire,” when used alone, refers specifically to blue
sapphire. All other colors are collectively classified as fancy sapphire. They’re also designated by indi-
vidual color names – pink sapphire, purple sapphire, and so forth.

Blue Sapphire vs Fancy

Compared to the classic blue variety, fancy sapphires
are usually more rare. They’re also unfamiliar to many
consumers. But pinks, purples, and yellows have gained
in both popularity and public recognition over the last
couple of decades, and the market supply has been
steady enough to fuel growing demand. So, you might
have opportunities to introduce your customers to these
beautiful gems.
Blue sapphire’s color ranges from pale sky to deep
midnight, with multiple shades and tints in between.
Most expensive is a rich velvety blue that has just a
slight touch of violet. The colors of fancy sapphires
range from light pastels to vivid saturations.
Sapphires of all hues are faceted in traditional
shapes and styles, similar to those used for diamonds.
They’re often lightly included, and minor clarity charac-
teristics are acceptable. Blue sapphire comes in a wide
range of carat weights, and most fancy colors are avail-
able in sizes up to about 10 carats.
The most important sources of sapphire currently
include Madagascar, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, and Australia.

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Sapphire Treatments
When you’re talking about gems, treatment is any
Three
artificial process – other than cutting or similar processing treatments
– that improves appearance or durability. Most colored
gemstones and many diamonds are now treated in one are common
way or another. Another word for treatment is “enhance-
ment,” and the two words are often used interchangeably.
for sapphire
Under FTC guidelines, a treatment must be disclosed – heat,
if it is not permanent, if it creates special-care require-
ments, or if it has a significant effect on value.
diffusion,
Three treatments are common for sapphire – heat, and filling.
diffusion, and filling.

• Heat – Almost all blue sapphires are heat treated to improve their color
or clarity. Depending on how the process is done, heating can lighten an
over-dark color, remove needle-like “silk” crystals that cloud appearance,
or even turn milky white material transparent blue. Most yellow natural
sapphires are heat treated too. With either color, the effects are permanent,
and the treatment creates no special-care requirements.
• Diffusion – This treatment can produce sapphires in a variety of colors. It
involves heating pale or colorless sapphire to a very high temperature while
it’s in contact with chemical coloring agents. In many cases, the results are
permanent, but in others they are not. A diffusion-created color might be
damaged or removed by repolishing or recutting the gem.
• Filling – For sapphire, this treatment normally involves using glass or
epoxy resin to fill cavities or fractures that reach the gem’s surface. The
Diffusion treated filling makes the cavities or fractures less visible, thus improving the gem’s
blue sapphire. appearance. But fillings can be damaged by some repair procedures, so
they may not be permanent.

Lab-Created Sapphire
Sapphire is also available in laboratory-created forms, and it’s important to
clearly identify these in sales presentations. You can tell customers that natural
sapphire was produced by Earth’s geologic (or rock-forming) processes.
Lab-created sapphire (also called synthetic sapphire) is essentially the same
material – it’s composed of the same kinds and quantities of atoms crystallized
in the same way – only it’s manmade.

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Sapphire Durability and Care

When you present sapphire – either natural or lab-created – be sure
to emphasize its great durability. Sapphire is one of the hardest and
toughest of all gems. As a result, it can stand up to wear in any type or Sapphire
style of jewelry, and its beauty can easily last a lifetime – with plenty
left over for heirloom potential.
is one of the
For cleaning sapphire jewelry, recommend that customers use a hardest and
liquid cleaner or detergent and water. Ultrasonic cleaning machines are
also safe unless noticeable clarity characteristics are present. (You’ll
toughest
learn more about care and cleaning for gems and jewelry in Lesson 9.) of all gems.
RUBY
Ruby’s age-old status is reflected by one of its ancient
names. In Sanskrit – the classical language of India –
ruby was called “ratnaraj,” which translates into King of
Ruby is Gems. Echoing this exalted title, a book written in Europe
during the 1300s says, “Fine ruby is the lord of all stones.
the birthstone It is the gem of gems, and surpasses all precious stones in
for July, virtue.”
Nowadays, most people might not be quite so lavish
Summer, in their praise, but top-quality ruby still ranks among the
and world’s rarest and costliest gems. At an auction in 2006,
a ruby weighing 8.62 carats sold for $3.64 million – or
Capricorn. $425,000 per carat!

Ruby Symbolism and Lore

In past centuries, ruby acquired an impressive list of
magical attributes. Its glowing color made people think an
unquenchable fire burned within. According to folklore
from India, ruby preserves physical and mental health,
prevents evil thoughts, reconciles disputes, and ensures
safety. Europeans in the Middle Ages believed ruby
would bring its wearer perfect peace and happiness.
Today, ruby is the birthstone for July, Summer,
and Capricorn. It’s also the gem for the 15th and 40th
wedding anniversaries.

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Science Background
Our English word “ruby” comes from Latin “ruber,”
meaning red, and there’s a fundamental link between the
gem and the color. Scientists define ruby as the red variety
of the mineral corundum.
Gem and jewelry professionals are even more specific. Our English
To be considered ruby in the gem trade, the color must be
predominantly red and at least moderately dark and strong. word “ruby”
Otherwise, the gem is correctly identified as pink, purple, or
orange sapphire, depending on the tint.
comes from
Despite the strict definition, rubies do display a range of Latin “ruber,”
colors. The tone can be medium to very dark, and the hue
is often slightly orangish, purplish, pinkish, or brownish. In
meaning red.
everyday terms, rubies can be scarlet, crimson, vermilion,
cherry, apple, raspberry, or rose (classic American Beauty).
Most expensive is a pure red that’s deep yet vivid.

Ruby is often lightly included, and it’s usually

faceted in traditional shapes and styles. It has limited
size availability, seldom exceeding 5 carats in fine
quality.
Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) has been a
leading ruby producer for centuries. Output has fluc-
tuated dramatically over the years due to turbulent
political conditions. In 2008, the US banned imports
of ruby as well as jade and certain other products from
Myanmar because of human rights abuses by the coun-
try’s military government.
Within the last few years, Madagascar has become
Photo courtesy Shutterstock Atiketta Sangasaeng. another major source of rubies. Others include
Cambodia, Kenya, Tanzania, and Vietnam.

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Ruby Treatments
For decades, almost all rubies have been treated. Heating
to improve clarity or color is routine. Carried out in different
ways, heat treatment can eliminate “silk” inclusions or make
the color redder by reducing purplish or brownish tints.
Also fairly common is filling cavities and fractures with
epoxy resin or glass to improve clarity appearance.
For decades,
Ruby is sometimes imitated or produced by diffusion treat- almost all
ment. This involves heating sapphire to a very high tempera-
ture while it’s in contact with chemical elements that will
rubies
impart a ruby-red color. have been
Heat treatment is normally permanent, and creates
no special-care requirements. Fillings can be damaged or
treated.
destroyed by some jewelry-repair procedures. And a diffusion-
induced color might be damaged or removed by repolishing or
recutting.
These multiple possibilities mean that you need to find out
what treatments have been performed on the rubies you sell, so
you’ll be able to give proper disclosures to your customers.

Lab-Created Ruby
Like sapphire and a number of other popular gems, ruby is avail-
able in both natural and laboratory-created forms. When you present a
lab-created ruby, you need to make sure the customer understands what
you’re showing. You can say that a lab-created ruby is manmade, and it
duplicates its natural counterpart all the way down to the atomic level.

Ruby Durability and Care

Along with beauty and tradition, ruby offers the benefit of great
wearability. It has very high hardness – or scratch resistance – and its
toughness is normally excellent. (Clarity characteristics in natural ruby
can reduce toughness, however.)

Photo courtesy KdEdesign.

Liquid cleaner or detergent and water are safe for cleaning. An ultra-
sonic cleaning machine is usually safe except for rubies with noticeable
clarity characteristics and those that are cavity- or fracture-filled.

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EMERALD
Emerald is one of the colored gems that’s most likely to
cast a spell over contemporary jewelry customers. But judging
from history, this has been the case for a very long time.

Emerald Symbolism and Lore

In ancient Egypt, emerald’s lush green color symbolized
life itself. Other cultures of the past associated this gem with
faith, harmony, and peace.
Over the centuries, people credited emerald with a wide
Photo courtesy shutterstock Sorin Colac.
variety of magical powers. According to some legends, you can
see the future if you hold an emerald under your tongue. Others
say wearing an emerald brings riches and power, strengthens memory and intelligence, averts evil, and
reveals truth.
For many years, emerald has been the birthstone for May, Spring, and the zodiac sign of Cancer. It’s
now the gem for the 20th and 35th anniversaries as well.

Science Background
Color has always been the prime source of emerald’s appeal. The
word “emerald” comes from Greek “smaragdos,” which was once used
for many green gemstones. To modern science, emerald is a green
variety of the beryl mineral species. Aquamarine is another beryl variety.
In technical terms, emerald’s color ranges from light to dark green,
and often has a somewhat bluish or yellowish tint. The color must be
reasonably intense, however. Gems which are too pale are properly clas-
Photo courtesy Terry Davis. sified as green beryl. The most valuable emerald color is a deep vibrant
green that has a very slightly bluish tinge.
Customers are likely to notice clarity characteristics in many emer-
alds. You can explain that these tend to occur because of the geologic
conditions in which the gem forms. Unless they’re unsightly or threaten
durability, they have little impact on value.
When discussing cut, you can say the rectangular faceted style
known as the emerald cut is a classic choice. It generally saves
Photo courtesy John Kasawa. maximum weight from the crystal, and also shows the gem’s color at its
best. Other shapes and styles are available too.

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 Gemstones

Although the market supply is steady in most grades and

in weights up to about 15 or 20 carats, large fine-quality emer-
alds are rare and expensive.
Egypt was history’s first emerald source, but Colombia
has been the world’s leading producer since the 1500s. Today
Brazil and Zambia are also important producers.

Emerald Treatment
Many emeralds are fracture-filled to improve their appear-
Colombia is
ance. This has been a common practice since at least Roman still the world’s
times. Modern fillers include a number of colorless oils and principal source
natural or synthetic resins. of fine emerald.

Some fillers deteriorate over time, but filled gems can

Photo courtesy Shutterstock Terry Davis.
usually be re-treated to restore their original beauty. If filling is
extensive it does lower value, and some trade laboratories now
issue emerald reports that rate this factor.

Many
emeralds are Emerald Wear and Care
Emeralds are inherently hard and scratch resistant,
fracture-filled but many require special care during wear due to their
to improve their clarity characteristics. It’s important to help customers
select jewelry that will give lasting enjoyment. Rings
appearance. and bracelets are exposed to bumps and scrapes during
normal wear, and emeralds are sensitive to such acci-
dents. This makes pendants, earrings, and pins good
choices for customers with active lifestyles.
Besides helping customers choose jewelry that’s right
for them, you need to provide guidance on care. Rough
wear and handling are dangerous for any gem – but this
is particularly true for emerald.

Photo courtesy omkar.a.v.

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Special Precautions
Treated emeralds require special precautions. Many chemi-
cals can damage or destroy fracture-fillings. Even relatively low
heat or bright light can adversely affect oils. To be safe, advise
customers not to leave oiled emeralds sitting in bright sunlight.
(It’s also best to display emerald jewelry in cases with lighting
that is external and diffused.)
It's important to understand
In the store, never use ultrasonic or steam machines for treatments and necessary to tell
cleaning emeralds. Either method can be disastrous. Also caution customers about them.
customers not to use home ultrasonics or commercial cleaning
solutions for emerald jewelry. Instead, remove dust and smudges Steam can
shatter some
with a cotton swab or soft, lint-free cloth. Occasional cleaning gems.
with mild detergent and water is usually safe, but don’t scrub an
oiled gem.
Better yet, offer to give the jewelry an in-store cleaning every
few months. This will keep it looking its best, and also create
opportunities to build a relationship with the customer.

Ultrasonic cleaners are safe for

many colored gems – but not all.
CULTURED PEARLS
Since the dawn of history, pearls have been counted among the
most beautiful, meaningful, and magical of gems. Associated with
the moon and the elemental power of water, for countless generations
pearls have symbolized purity and love.
Throughout history, pearls have
been one of the most highly With this rich romantic tradition, pearl became the gem for both the
prized and sought after gems. 3rd and 30th wedding anniversaries. It is also one of the birthstones for
Photo courtesy Japan Pearl Exporters the month of June. (Alexandrite and moonstone are the others.)
Association.

Natural Pearls
Cultured
Pearls Natural pearls occur when mollusks, such as oysters and mussels,
coat tiny intruding irritants with lustrous nacre (NAY-ker). This
substance is made primarily of microscopic calcium carbonate crystals.
It protects the animal and creates pearl’s distinctive beauty.
Natural
Pearls Once found in waters around the world, natural pearls are now very
It takes x-ray to tell the rare, due mainly to over-fishing and pollution. Their place in the gem
difference between natural kingdom has been taken by cultured pearls.
and cultured pearls.

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 Gemstones

Pearl Culturing
A cultured pearl begins when a technician implants a nucleus
into an oyster or mussel that has been collected or raised especially
for this purpose. The nucleus may consist of a shell bead and a small
piece of mantle tissue from another mollusk. (The mantle is the
organ that lines the mollusk’s shell and envelops its body.) In some
types of pearls, only a bit of mantle tissue is used for the nucleus.
Either way, the nucleus acts as an artificial irritant, and stimu-
lates nacre secretion. After the implant procedure, the animals are
tended for up to two years. At the end of that period – if everything
Photo courtesy Shutterstock Amnh.
goes right – cultured pearls are harvested.

Cultured Pearl Products

Japan developed modern pearl culturing in the early 1900s.
Since then, methods have been adapted and refined in a number of
countries. The result is a remarkable variety of products that include
Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian, and freshwater cultured pearls.
• Akoya Pearls – These are the classic cultured pearls.
Produced mainly along the coasts of Japan and China, Akoyas
usually range from about 4 to 8 millimeters in size. Typical colors
are white and cream. Others include pink, yellow, blue, and gray.
• South Sea Pearls – The most rare and expensive cultured
pearls. Grown primarily in the warm waters around Australia,
Indonesia, and the Philippines, they're prized for their large
sizes – normally about 8 to 18 millimeters. Colors include white,
cream, silver, golden yellow, and rose pink.
• Tahitian Pearls – Exotic in appearance, most of these come
from the islands of French Polynesia. They’re about the same
size as South Seas cultured pearls, but their colors run from sliver
gray to black, golden yellow through bronze and copper, to deep
“cherry” red, yellow-green “pistachio,” and purple-green “auber-
gine.”
• Freshwater Pearls – The most affordable cultured pearls,
they also offer a wide assortment of sizes, shapes, and colors
Freshwater pearls are cultured
into many different shapes. (both natural and treated). Streams, rivers, and lakes in China are
Photo courtesy Cultured Pearl
the main sources.
Associations of America and Japan.

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Gemstones

Cultured Pearl Value Factors

Aside from basic market availability, six factors affect the cost of a
cultured pearl. These are size, shape, color, luster, surface, and nacre.

Although perfectly round pearls

are treasured, every shape can be
interesting and beautiful.
Photo courtesy Cultured Pearl Information
Center.
Round Baroque

Size potentials vary, but large fine-quality pearls are rare, and command premium prices. Color
possibilities also depend on the type of pearl. The main categories for shape are spherical, symmetrical,
and baroque. Spherical (or round) pearls generally are most expensive. Luster is the sharpness of light
reflections from the pearl’s surface, and it’s always critical to beauty. Surface is freedom from blem-
ishes such as bumps and spots, while nacre is the thickness of the pearl’s coating.
In addition to these universal factors, matching for size and appearance is important with cultured
pearls that are used together in necklaces or other jewelry.

The higher the luster

of a pearl, the better it
will “mirror” the color
on which it rests.
Photo courtesy Cultured
Pearl Information Center.

Cultured Pearl Care

To maintain the beauty of cultured pearls, proper care is essen-
tial. For cleaning, never use ultrasonic or steam machines, or
commercial liquid solutions. Warm soapy water and a very soft
brush are okay for occasional cleaning. But it's best to simply wipe
the jewelry with a soft, clean cloth after each wearing.
Cultured pearls can be damaged by most chemicals – and espe-
cially acids. They're also soft and easily scratched. So, caution
customers to protect their pearls from contact with household
cleansers, cosmetics, and so forth. Pearls need to be stored sepa-
Pearls need to be stored separately rately from other jewelry. And if a pearl necklace is worn often, it
from other jewelry. should be re-strung every few years.

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RECAP OF KEY POINTS

• The gem world includes an amazing variety of material used for jewelry and orna-
mental purposes. Most of these are divided into two categories – diamonds and
colored gemstones. Diamonds are most important, but colored gemstones like
sapphire, ruby, emerald, and cultured pearl also have a prominent place in the selec-
tion of products jewelry retailers offer their customers.
• The 4Cs – carat weight, clarity, color, and cut – affect the value of every diamond.
Carat weight, clarity, and color reflect a diamond’s natural rarity. The larger the
diamond and the higher its color and clarity grades, the greater its rarity and value
will be. Cut is the human contribution to diamond value. The choice of cut shape
and style is a matter of personal preference. Cut quality reflects the care and skill
that were involved in transforming the rough crystal into a sparkling gem. Cut
quality is almost always the top factor in a diamond’s beauty.
• Sapphire is a variety of the corundum mineral species. It occurs in all colors except
pure red. (Red corundum is classified as ruby). Sapphire has been closely associ-
ated with royalty throughout history. Possessing a wealth of lore, it is the birthstone
for September, and the gem for the 5th and 45th anniversaries. Important sources of
sapphire are Madagascar, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, and Australia. Most sapphire is now
treated, and lab-created sapphire is also available. Sapphire is one of the hardest
and toughest of all gems. These properties give it great wearability.
• Ruby is the red variety of the corundum mineral species. (All other colors of
corundum are classified as sapphire.) Over the centuries, ruby acquired a long list
of magical attributes. Today, it is the birthstone for July, and the gem for the 15th
and 40th anniversaries. Important sources of ruby are Madagascar, Cambodia,
Kenya, Tanzania, and Vietnam. Most ruby is treated, with heat being a very
common method. Ruby is also available in both natural and lab-created forms.
Like sapphire, ruby is naturally very hard and tough, which means it’s suitable for
frequent wear in any type of jewelry.
• Emerald is the deep green variety of the beryl mineral species. (Aquamarine is
another beryl variety.) In many cultures, emerald’s color linked it to life. Today,
emerald is the birthstone for May, and the gem for the 20th and 35th anniversaries.
Leading sources of emerald are Colombia, Brazil, and Zambia. Fracture-filling is
often used to improve emerald’s appearance. Many emeralds require gentle wear
and care due to the type and extent of clarity characteristics they contain and the
amount of filling present.

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Gemstones

• Cultured pearls are the modern versions of an ancient gem. Natural pearls are
produced by mollusks without human help. Cultured pearls combine Nature’s
processes with human art and science. Today, almost all pearls are cultured.
Tradition has made pearl – both natural and cultured – a birthstone for June and the
gem for the 3rd and 30th wedding anniversaries. There are many different types of
cultured pearl products. Four of the most important are Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian,
and freshwater cultured pearls. Value factors for cultured pearls are size, shape,
color, luster, surface, and nacre. Proper care is essential to maintain the beauty of
cultured pearls.

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LESSON 7 FOLLOW-UP CHECKLIST

____ Pick a selection of diamonds from your inventory and practice stating their
weights in ways that follow store policy and feel personally comfortable. Also
practice explaining how carat weight affects a diamond’s cost.
____ With management or senior coworkers, discuss the grading systems your store
uses for diamond clarity, color, and cut. Be sure you know the terms and under-
stand what they mean. Then role-play explaining the grades of diamonds from
your inventory.
____ With a couple of coworkers, brainstorm links between sapphire’s traditional
symbolism and the ideas or emotions customers typically want to express
when they purchase jewelry. If you carry fancy sapphires, role-play introducing
them to a customer who thinks all sapphires are blue. Also role-play disclosing
sapphire treatment. (Work closely with management on treatment disclosures.)
____ Review ruby’s history and lore, then brainstorm ways of linking these with the
reasons why today’s customers usually want to own or give jewelry. Talk about
how rubies in your inventory have been treated. Then role-play disclosing this
in a specific but positive manor. Also role-play presenting wearability as a key
benefit for ruby.
____ With your store’s owner or manager, review your company policy on treat-
ment disclosure, and discuss how emerald fracture filling should be explained
to customers. Next, role-play a sales presentation of emerald clarity. (Say the
customer is experienced in buying diamonds and voices an objection like,
“Doesn’t this have a lot of flaws?”) Also take a quick survey of your showcases
and identify gemstones you might recommend as color alternatives for emerald.
What makes them good choices? When would it be appropriate to suggest
them?
____ Role-play explaining what cultured pearls are in a brief, clear, and effective
manner. Also take a survey of the cultured pearl jewelry in your showcases.
Compare the features of different kinds of pearls, then brainstorm benefits to
go with them. Role-play a brief presentation for each type of cultured pearl you
carry.

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LESSON 7 SELF-TEST
This lesson also includes a Self-Test that’s designed to help you gauge your comprehension of the
lesson material. The test is an important part of the learning process, so be sure to complete it.
When you're ready to take the test, go to the Course Materials page (the one that lists all the
lessons) and click on "Take Self-Test." Make certain you select the test for this lesson.
All questions in the test are based on Lesson 7. More than one answer for a question might seem
correct, but you should select the one best answer based on the lesson discussion.
As you take the test, you may refer to the lesson. To do this, you’ll need to have the lesson loaded
in a separate window of your browser.
If you feel certain about a question, try answering it without looking at the lesson. But if you’re not
sure, check the lesson before answering.
After you answer a question, you'll receive immediate results and feedback. You'll find out whether
you answered correctly, what the correct answer was (in case you missed it), and also the page
number in the lesson where the information can be found. Take time to review any material you're not
completely clear on.
At the end of the test, you’ll receive your overall results. Then you’ll be able to continue to the next
step in your coursework.
If you have questions or need help, please contact us. You can use this website – just click on
“Help.” You can also email studenthelp@diamondcouncil.org or phone 615-385-5301 / toll free
877-283-5669.

28 Beginning Jewelry Sales 7