R e a d i n g s in C o n s e r v a t i o n

Changing Views of
Textile Conservation

Edited by

MARY M . BROOKS

DINAH D. EASTOP

T H E G E T T Y C O N S E R V A T I O N I N S T I T U T E
L O S A N G E L E S
 Contents

Foreword xi
Preface xiii
Acknowledgments xix
Note to the Reader xxi

Part I Beginnings i
READING i Wendy Hefford | The Restoration of the Tapestries (1971) 3

2 Stig Fogelmarck | John Bottiger: Keeper of Textiles (1988) 4

3 Inger Estham | Eighty Years of Pietas (1988) 13

4 P. A. Semechkin | "Workshop for the Repair-of Antique

Needlework": On the History of the Decorative Arts Section
of the Central State Restoration Workshops, 1919—1934
(2000/2001) 19

5 Marike Temmink-van Dijkhuizen | Textiles in All Conditions:

Opinions about Restoration and Conservation from Changing
Perspectives (1990) 3/

6 Hannelore Herrmann | Looking Back at Thirty Years

of Textile Conservation and Restoration in the Federal Republic
of Germany (1989) yj

7 Deborah Lee Trupin | Flag Conservation Then and

Now (2003) 48

8 Margaret A. Fikioris | Charting the Future: Conservation

Principles of Henry Francis du Pont (1986) 59

9 Mechthild Flury-Lemberg | Introduction to Textile

Conservation and Research (1988) 69

10 Jentina E. Leene | Restoration and Preservation of

Ancient Textiles, and Natural Science (1963) -73

11 A g n e s Geijer | Preservation of Textile Objects (1963) 78

 12 Nobuko Kajitani | Care of Fabrics in the Museum (1977)

13 Hanna Jedrzejewska | Problems of Ethics in the Conservation

of Textiles (1980)

14 Karen Finch | Textiles as Documents of History and Those

Who Care for Them (2000)

15 James W. Rice | Principles of Textile Conservation Science,

No. I: General Chemical and Physical Structural Features of
the Natural Textile Fibers (1962)

16 James W. Rice | Principles of Textile Conservation Science,

No. V: The Characteristics of Soils and Stains Encountered
on Historic Textiles (1964)

17 James W. Rice | Principles of Textile Conservation Science,

No. VI: The Wonders of Water in Wetcleaning (1966)

18 James W. Rice | Principles of Textile Conservation Science,

No. VIII: Drycleaning of Fine and Fragile Textiles (1967)

Part II Debates in Pioneering Practice

READING 19 Mechthild Lemberg | Examples of Textile Conservation

in the Historical Museum, Bern (1957/58)

20 R. Sieders, J. W. H. Uytenbogaart, and J. E. Leene |

The Restoration and Preservation of Old Fabrics:
A New Method of Mounting on a Rigid Backing (1956)

21 Agnes Geijer | Dangerous Methods for the Conservation

of Textiles (1961)

22 Jentina E. Leene | The "Delft" Methods for the

Conservation of Textiles: Response to Dr. Agnes Geijer,
Stockholm (1961)

23 Agnes Geijer | Brief Reply from Dr. Geijer, Stockholm,

, 12 June 1961 (1961)

24 Hanna Jedrzejewska | Problems in the Conservation

of Textiles: Needle versus Adhesive (1981)

25 Sheila Landi | Three Examples of Textile Conservation

in the Victoria and Albert Museum (1966)
 2.6 Johan Lodewijks | The History of Conservation
and Restoration of Flags and Banners in the Netherlands (1980) 159

27 Sven Bengtsson | Preservation of the "Wasa" Sails (1975) 163

28 Mechthild Flury-Lemberg | Conservation with Needle

and Thread (1988) 168
29 Liliane Masschelein-Kleiner, Bernadette Vandermeersch-
Coppens d'Eeckenbrugge, and Geert Meert | Conservation
of Historic Textiles (2): The Noorderwijk Pennant (1980/81) 175

Part HI Understanding Materials 181

READING 30 Louisa Bellinger | Basic Habits of Textile Fibres (1963) 182

31 Mary W. Ballard | Hanging Out: Strength, Elongation,

and Relative Humidity: Some Physical Properties
of Textile Fibers (1996) 189

32 Annemette Bruselius Scharff | Synthetic Dyestuffs for

Textiles and Their Fastness to Washing (1999) 199

33 Andre Brutillot | Reflections on Slit Stitching in

Tapestries (2002) 210

34 Karen Finch | Note on the Damaging Effect of Flameproofing

on a Tapestry Hanging (1969) 216

35 Katia Johansen | Perfumed Garments, Their Preservation

and Presentation: " . . . the good smell of old clothes" (1999) 218

36 Bill Cooke | Creasing in Ancient Textiles (1988) 221

37 Dinah D. Eastop and Mary M. Brooks | To Clean

or Not to Clean: The Value of Soils and Creases (1996) 228
38 Christopher Rowell and John M. Robinson | Uppark
Restored: The Conservation of the Contents (1996) 236

39 Maria Hayward and Robert Allen | Naphthalene (1992) 240

40 Graham Martin and Marion Kite | Conservator Safety:

Mercury in Felt Hats (2003) 251
41 Nancy Odegaard, Alyce Sadongei, and Marilen Pool |
Addressing the Problem: The Team Approach (2005) 259
 Part IV Principles of Practice
READING 42 Patsy Orlofsky and Deborah Lee Trupin | The Role of
Connoisseurship in Determining the Textile Conservator's
Treatment Options (1993)

43 Dinah D. Eastop | Decision Making in Conservation:

Determining the Role of Artefacts (K

44 Renee Lugtigheid | A Tale of Two Tapestries: Considerations

of Restoration, De-restoration, and Re-restoration (1995)

45 Tibor Kovacs | A Thousand-Year-Old Relic in a

New Setting (2005)

46 Deirdre Windsor | Preserving the Historic Document:

Minimal Conservation Intervention for 18th- and 19th-century
Needlework and Pictorial Embroidery (1999)

47 Kate Gill and Dinah D. Eastop | Two Contrasting

Minimally Interventive Upholstery Treatments:
Different Roles, Different Treatments (1997)

48 Philip Sykas | Caring or Wearing? (1987)

49 Eva Burnham | Preventative Conservation with the Help

of Volunteers: A Successful Race against Time (1992)

50 Patricia Dal-Pra | In Situ Maintenance and Storage:

The Unique Case of Textiles (2000)

51 Mary W. Ballard | Climate and Conservation (1994)

Part V Practices
READING 52 Judith H. Hofenk de Graaff | Some Recent Developments
in the Cleaning of Ancient Textiles (1982)

53 John Fields, Andrew Wingham, Frances Hartog, and Vincent

Daniels | Surfactant Investigations into Alternatives for
Synperonic N® (2001)
I
I 54 Agnes Tfmar-Balazsy | Drying Behaviour of Fibres (1999)
55 Elizabeth E. Peacock | Drying Archaeological Textiles (1992)

56 Alexandra Seth-Smith and Tracey Wedge | Animal Glue

Removal from Sixteenth-Century Flemish Tapestry Fragments:
A Comparative Study of Three Cleaning Methods (1996)
57 Ksynia Marko | Two Case Histories: A Seventeenth-Century
Antwerp Tapestry and an Eighteenth-Century English Soho
Tapestry (1989) yj-j

58 Maj G. Ringgaard | An Investigation of the Effects

of Borohydride Treatments of Oxidized Cellulose Textiles (2002) 386

59 Jan Vuori, Debra Daly Hartin, Season Tse, Anne Maheux,

and Anne Ruggles | Local Stain Removal From Oceanie,
la mer by Henri Matisse: The Development of a Reducing
Bleach Technique Using a Suction Disk, Ultrasonic Mister,
and Airbrush (2009) 401

60 Barbara Raster and Anne Rinuy | Removal of Previous

"Restorations" from Islamic Textiles in the Bouvier Collection:
Analysis and Treatment (1994) 415

61 Nobuko Kajitani and Elena Phipps | A Contact/Pressure

Mounting System (1986) 420

62 Alison Lister | Making the Most of Mounts: Expanding the

Role of Display Mounts in the Preservation and Interpretation
of Historic Textiles (1997) 428

63 Susanna Conti | Loss in Textiles: Technological and

Color Problems (2004) 4^8

64 Ada Hinkel | A Sleeveless Doublet circa 1585 from the

Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nuremberg (2002) 442

65 Bettina Niekamp | Alterations, Historical Restorations,

Restoration and Conservation Interventions (2008) 450

66 Anne-Rose Bringel | A Conservation/Restoration

Technique (2000) 468

67 Lynda Hillyer, Zenzie Tinker, and Poppy Singer | Evaluating

the Use of Adhesives in Textile Conservation: Part I,
An Overview and Surveys of Current Use (1997) 472

68 Frances Lennard | The Conservation of the United Tin

Plate Workers' Society Banner of 1821 (1989) 492

69 Pippa Cruickshank and Helen Morgan | Lining a

Banana Fibre Belt: A Cool Vacuum Table Technique (1993) 501
70 Marion Kite and Pauline Webber | The Conservation
of an English Embroidered Picture Using an Oriental Paper
Method: A Joint Approach (1995) 512
 71 Kate Gill and Foekje Boersma | Solvent Reactivation of
Hydroxypropyl Cellulose (Klucel G®) in Textile Conservation:
Recent Developments (1997)

72 Lynn McClean and Elizabeth-Anne Haldane | Avendale

for Reformation: Conservation of a 17th Century
Covenanting Banner (2003)

73 Annemarie Stauffer | A Study of the Conservation Problems

of Archaeological Textiles Treated with Synthetic
Consolidants (2005)

Part VI Changing Contexts

READING 74 Emma Richardson, Graham Martin, Paul Wyeth,
and Xiaomei Zhang | State of the Art: Non-invasive
Interrogation of Textiles in Museum Collections (2008)
75 Mary M. Brooks and Sonia A. O'Connor | New Insights
into Textiles: The Potential of X-Radiography as an Investigative
Technique (2005)
76 Nancy Buenger | Wet with Blood: The Investigation of
Mary Todd Lincoln's Cloak (2000)
77 Agnes Krippendorf | "Information Is Defense":
Conservation in Auschwitz (2002)
78 Ann French | Textile or Art? The Conservation, Display and
Storage of Modern Textile Art (2004)
79 Sarah Clayton, Wendy Dodd, Victoria Gill, and Bridie
Kirkpatrick | Clear as Mud: How Cultural Significance
Determines Preservation Choices (2003)
80 Miriam Clavir | Preserving Conceptual Integrity: Ethics
and Theory in Preventive Conservation (1994)
81 Jessica S. Johnson, Susan Heald, Kelly McHugh,
Elizabeth Brown, and Marian Kaminitz | Practical
Aspects of Consultation with Communities (2005)

About the Editors

Index