Assignment 1
1. Describe the classifications of finishes?
Ans. These are the classification of finishes:
Permanent :- A permanent finish generally involves a chemical process that
changes the fiber structure that will not be subsequently alter through-out
the life of the fabric.
Durable :- A durable finish may last throughout the life of the fabric
Semi-durable:- A semi-durable finish will last through several launderings or
dry cleanings .
A temporary finish will be removed or substantially reduced when the
fabric is laundered or dry cleaned.
2. What is heat setting?
Ans. Heat setting: this is a process for the stabilization of synthetic fibers so that
they do not shrink on heating.
3. Briefly explain the finishing process of Decating?
Ans. Decating:- it is once again a mechanical process which improves appearance
, luster, and hand of the fabric without loss in success finishing processes. There
are two methods
Wet Decating
Dry Decating
4. Describe the difference between wet and dry Decating?
Ans. Wet Decating:- this is usually applied to wool fabrics. The cloth is wound on
a perforated roller and treated in a hot water or steam boiler.
Dry Decating:- In dry Decating a wool, cotton, silk , rayon , or blend fabric is
passed together with a special blanket around a perforated cylinder. Tension in
the blanket exerts pressure on the clot as steam is forced through the fabric. The
moist heat causes the fibers to become plastic and stresses are released , and
wrinkles are removed. The steam is extracted by vacuum pump , the yarns are set
and fixed in position as the fabric is cooled.
5. List the two major branches of finishing?
Ans. These are the 2 main branches of Finishing:
Mechanical Finishes
Chemical Finishes
6. Explain some finishes which are used for wool fabrics only?
Ans. Cropping: cutting the surface hairs from the a fabric to give a smooth
appearance, often used on woolen goods where the removal of surface hair by a
singeing process is not possible.
Dry Decating:- In dry Decating a wool, cotton, silk , rayon , or blend fabric is
passed together with a special blanket around a perforated cylinder. Tension in
the blanket exerts pressure on the clot as steam is forced through the fabric. The
moist heat causes the fibers to become plastic and stresses are released , and
wrinkles are removed. The steam is extracted by vacuum pump , the yarns are set
and fixed in position as the fabric is cooled.
7. Explain briefly what is meant by “compressive shrinkage”?
Ans. Compressive shrinkage: the mechanical shrinking of the warp fibers in woven
fabrics so that shrinkage on washing is reduced to the desired level.
8. Explain briefly the mechanical finish of CROPPING?
Ans. Cropping: cutting the surface hairs from the a fabric to give a smooth
appearance, often used on woolen goods where the removal of surface hair by a
singeing process is not possible.
9. What are the effects of Calendering?
Ans. These are the effects of calendaring:
smoothing the surface of the fabric
increasing the fabric luster
closing the threads of a woven fabric
decreasing the air permeability
increasing the fabric opacity
improving the handle of a fabric, i.e. softening
flattening slubs
obtaining silk-like to high gloss finishes
surface patterning by embossing
consolidation of nonwovens.
10. Explain the parameters of Calendering?
Ans. These are the parameters of calendaring:
Pressure used in all of the above calendrers can be varied between 10 and
40 tones, with running speeds up to 60 mmin-1. However, these are very
much average figures with figures as low as 6 tones for a 1 m wide Calender
to as high as 120 tones for a 3 m wide Calender.
In addition, running speeds of 20 mmin-1 are used on an embossing
Calender,
On a glazing Calender speeds of over 150 mmin-1 have been quoted.
The temperatures which are used in Calender rollers can, of course, vary
from room temperature to 250 °C. It must be stressed that temperature
control is of vital importance, with a tolerance of ±2 °C being commonly
quoted.
Cold bowls give a soft handle without much luster; warm bowls (40–80 °C)
give a slight luster.
Hot bowls (150–250 °C) give greatly improved luster, which can be further
improved by the action of friction and waxes.
11. Explain the Swissing or Normal Glass finishing effect?
Ans. Swissing or normal gloss: a cold Calender produces a smooth flat fabric.
However, if the steel bowl of the Calender is heated then in addition to
smoothness the Calender produces a lustrous surface. If a seven-bowl
multipurpose Calender is used then a smooth fabric with surface gloss on both
sides is produced
12. Explain the chintz and glazing effect?
Ans. Chintz or glazing: this gives the highly polished surface which is associated
with glazed chintz. The effect is obtained by heating the top bowl on a three-bowl
Calender and rotating this at a greater speed than that of the fabric. The speed of
this top bowl can vary between 0 and 300% of the speed of the fabric. In certain
cases where a very high gloss is required, the fabric is often pre-impregnated with
a wax emulsion, which further enhances the polished effect. This type of
Calendering is often called friction Calendering.
13. What is embossing?
Ans. Embossing: in this process the heated top bowl of a two-bowl Calender is
engraved with an appropriate pattern which is then transferred to the fabric
passing through the bowls. The effect can be made permanent by the use of
thermoplastic fibers or in the case of cellulosic by the use of an appropriate
crosslinking resin.
14. Explain the shriener finishing technique? Briefly explain the
effects on fabric after the finishing process?
Ans. Schreiner or silk finishing: this is a silk-like finish on one side of the fabric. It
is produced (see Fig. 7.5) by embossing the surface of the fabric with a series of
fine lines on the surface of the bowls. These lines are usually at an angle of about
30° to the warp threads. The effect can be made permanent by the use of
thermoplastic fabric or, in the case of cotton, by the use of a resin finish. This
finish is particularly popular on curtains and drapes because of the silk-like
appearance this type of finish gives to the product.
15. Describe the “chasing effects “? How is it applied?
Ans. The fabric is threaded through the Calender in such a way as to press the
fabric against itself several times. It is common to use a five- or seven-bowl
Calender, the fabric passing through each nip of the Calender in two or three
layers
16. Discuss the problems or Rasing?
Ans. A good account of the causes of faults in raised knitted fabrics is given by
Pehl.
(1) Variations in temperature and humidity conditions can affect the raising
effect. Cotton is usually processed in a warm, dry condition, although if it is
badly creased it may be pre-wetted and re-dried.
(2) If the pile action is much greater than the counterpile, the cloth may tend
to cling to the pile rollers. The cloth on the feed side then becomes very
tight and on the backside very slack. This may result in creasing. The
machine should be reset to a more balanced action.
(3) Bad setting of the cleaning brushes ( fancies ) can do a lot of damage, but
in general uneven raising should be corrected by re-grinding or replacing
the wire.
(4) Changing the fabric width may produce lines due to wire damage at the
selvedge of the previous cloth.
(5) Lateral striping can be caused by yarn variation, which may not show up
before raising.
(6) Streaky or patchy raising may be due to traces of finishing agents.
17. Which testing parameters are influenced from the raising?
Ans. The raising effect is assessed by its influence on properties such as:
(1) tensile strength;
(2) abrasion resistance;
(3) air permeability;
(4) thickness;
(5) thermal insulation;
(6) Flammability and surface flash (cellulosic).
18. Explain briefly on sueding/emerising?
Ans. Emerising (also known as sueding or sanding, in the USA) is a process in
which fabric at open width is passed over one or more rotating emery-covered
rollers to produce a suede-like finish
• multi-roller emerising machines
• Single-roller emerising machines
