Building Your Own CNC Milling Machine
Building Your Own CNC Milling Machine
Building Your Own CNC Milling Machine
Table of Contents
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Step 7: Worksurface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
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http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-CNC-milling-machine/
Author:Trochilidesign Trochili Design
Industrial Designer
In August 2013 the idea to build a CNC milling machine captivated me again. I just finished the first year of my bachelor in Industrial Design, so I was confident enough to
start a build. The real difference between now and 5 years ago was, I learned to work with metal on manual milling machines and lathes and above all I had the right
tools to design a machine.
This Instructable will show you how I built my CNC milling machine. I know a lot of CNC dreamers do not have the knowledge or tools to build a full metal machine. I still
think and hope this Instructable inspires you to make your own machine. I include all of the necessary steps I went through in designing and building this CNC milling
machine. All of the drawings I used to build my machine will be available.
Since I'm a lover of good designed tools, I tried to make maintenance and the possibility to adjust things on the machine as easy as possible. Bearings could have been
integrated in the machine, but I chose to place them in separate bearing blocks (in case it needs to be replaced in the future). Keeping your machine clean is very
important too, so guiderails are all accessible (in case of the x-axis by detaching some cover plates)
De drawing above gives an overview of the main mechanical parts I will cover in this Instructable. I will of course also cover the electrical part of the machine. A PDF with
the main dimensions is also attached.
Image Notes
1. Step 3 covers this part of the machine
2. In step 2 a solid frame is constructed
3. Step 4 describes how to make the last movement
4. Step 6 is about all of the spindles
5. If you would like to know more about kitchen drawers, skip all of the parts and
go to step 5
6. A proper cutting bed is very important on you machine, the machine is covered
by a bed in step 7
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-CNC-milling-machine/
File Downloads
Since the frame sits beneath the worksurface dust could fall down on the guiderails (you want to keep them clean, more about that in step 5). To prevent this, dust covers
were made and mounted around the guiderails. A angular profile mounted with brass milled t-nuts onto the may tech frame and 2mm aluminium plates mounted in the
milled pockets on the endplates.
On both endplates bearing blocks are mounted for the spindle. They were hand milled and lathed to the right tolerances. On the front endplate mounting slots for the
stepper motor were milled
Image Notes
1. Milled parts for dust covers
2. Linear guide rails; discussed in step 5
3. Maytech Aluminium 40x80mm extruded profile
4. 40x40mm aluminium profile for a rigid structure
5. 90degree angle pieces
6. Lots of T-slots for T-nuts. Mounting things to the frame is just peanuts
Image Notes
1. Dustcovers mounted
2. Linear guiderails with the runner blocks slided on
3. The square structure assembled and mounted in the frame
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-CNC-milling-machine/
Image Notes
1. Dustcover
File Downloads
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-CNC-milling-machine/
Mountingblocks Internal frame.pdf (101 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Mountingblocks Internal frame.pdf']
Most of the work I planned to do with the CNC involved milling aluminium parts. An average vise for the machine would be 60 mm high. Since the thickest blocks of
aluminium easily available for me would be 60 mm high as well, I chose to space between the work surface and the piece of metal, which could hit the workpiece first, to
be 125 mm. This gave me a starting point for the side plates. Since I wanted the center of an end mill hovering over the center of the runnigblocks (from the machines
side view), the side plates had to be placed at an angle. Solidworks helped me to convert all of the measurements into the final parts. Because of all the complex
dimensions I decided to mill these parts on an industrial CNC mill, this also gave me the opportunity to round all of the corners (would have been very hard to mill on a
manual mill).
The part which supports the y-axis guiderails is formed out of an 5mm thick U-profile. It is mounted between the side plate with the help of two simple mounting blocks.
On the inside the U-profile houses the y-axis spindle. Which is again supported by the same bearing blocks used for the x-axis. They are mounted on the outside of the
side plates.
Beneath the main frame a plate was mounted on the underside of the gantry's side plates, giving a mounting point for the x-axis spindle nut.
Image Notes
1. Sideplates of the gantry; they were CNC milled on an industrial machine.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-CNC-milling-machine/
File Downloads
The motor mount has the bearing for the z-axis spindle fitted into it. So I didn't use a bearing block for this spindle and is only supported on the top. he lower end is
floating behind the mounting plate for the milling motor. The spindle nut for the Z-axis was directly bolted on the mounting plate for the milling motor.
The backplate provides a spot for the y-axis spindle nut to be mounted; it is mounted on the inside.
All of the custom mechanics are now ready. The CNC is assembled with the guiderails, spindles and a lot of bolts ;-)
De drawings are again provided below.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-CNC-milling-machine/
File Downloads
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-CNC-milling-machine/
Step 5: Guide rails
Since your endmills need to move in 3 directions, the machine guides them with its guide rails. The guide rails provides the machine its rigidity in all directions except the
one it moves in. You want them to let the machine only move in the preferred direction. Any backlash in other directions results in inaccuracies in your workpieces.
On my machine I wanted to use guideways supported on the full length of the rail, reducing the risk for deflections on the longer axes.
In my opinion some kitchen drawer slides are preferred above the hardened steel rods which are supported on the end (yes! they will deflect). Since you are constantly
fighting the forces from the endmills against the material of the workpiece, a lot of support is recommended.
I chose the most expensive option; profiled linear guide rails with runner blocks. The are designed to receive forces in all directions. In the third picture you can see the
looping bearing balls, they are positioned on both sides of the profile. All with a tangent 45 degree relative to each other, giving it the ability to handle high loads.
To get all guiderails perpendicular and parallel to each other they were all aligned with a dial indicator (with a maximum difference of 0,01 mm). If you spent your time on
this part, the machine will perform very well in accuracy!
I chose to use leadscrews with a special plastic drivenut which reduce friction and are approach a backlash free system. You can order the drive nuts here:
http://www.mixware.de/index.html\
Both the ends of the x- and y-axis have to be turned to size to fit the bearings, pulleys and clamping nuts. Since the z-axis spindle is only supported on one and with a
bearing, it is turned on only one side.
The pulleys are drilled to the turned shaft size (in my case 8 mm) and provided with a M4 setscrew perpendicular to the shafthole.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-CNC-milling-machine/
File Downloads
The work surface could be milled flat by the machine itself after you've completed it. Your first project :-)
-Stepper motors
-Stepper drivers
-Powersupply (or 2)
-Breakoutboard
-Computer
-And last but not least: Safety first; a emergency stop ;-)
I chose to buy a complete set on Ebay with 3 Nema 23 stepper motors, 3 suitable drivers, a breakout board and a 36 V power supply. I use a step down converter to
convert the 36 volt DC into 5 Volt DC. You can of course also put together your own set. Since I could not wait to sartup the machine I temporarily mounted all the drivers
and power supply on a open board. The enclosure is in the making.
Since a few years it is also possible to connect a CNC very easily via USB. The UBS-breakout boards on the market generally come with their own software. I chose to
use the parallel printer port found on most older PC's. I do not intend to use a new computer in a room full of dust, oil and aluminium chips
Since I had a lot of difficulties in finding a proper scheme with the needed components, I tried to make everything clear in the infographic above (you can also download
the PDF and zoom in on the different parts)
File Downloads
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-CNC-milling-machine/
Step 9: The milling motor
Since we want to remove material from the piece we clamp to the work surface, we need something that drives the cutting bits; i.e. the endmills. The milling motor will
spin the cutters at low or high speeds. From a simple Dremeltool to a High frequency Spindle of several kWatts. For our machine size a Kress spindle is very convenient
to start with. If you want to improve your machine, a reliable Hf spindle will please you. It all depents on the amount of money you can afford to spent on it.
Try to find something with the ability to use different sized collets.
When we make a workpiece on our computer, either flat or a 3D CAD (Computer Aided Design) model, we need to convert it into something the machine will understand.
With CAM (Computer Aided Machining) we can read vectors and 3D models and create an output suitable (Gcode) for the software which controls the machine. I'm
allowed to use the professional software offered by my University
The software that controls the machine is a Gcode interpreter. When you use a USB-hub, as discussed in Electrical system), it will have it's own software. If you use the
parallel printer port on a older computer, you can choose your own. I chose to use Mach3 since it it used by most hobbyists. You can find a lot about it on forums and
google. Since Mach3 has many options and functions, I won't explain them. Just play with it and you'll discover its secrets :-)
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-CNC-milling-machine/
Step 11: It's Alive!!!
Ones connected properly, hookup the power supply, it just works!! Start with some pieces of wood or foam and you'll get used to the speeds and properties of your
machine. The work above shows some of the pieces I'm working on in aluminium. As you can see the machine is able to work very intricately.
Search for proper parts and take your time. I could have build the machine in a month, but because I had to search for parts on Ebay etc., it took me half a year. This
keeps the costs down of course, I was able to build the machine for less then 1000,-
I hope the story encourages you to build your own CNC milling machine. Please feel free to contact me or give a comment if you think something is missing.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-CNC-milling-machine/
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 259 comments
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-CNC-milling-machine/
ahmed_heg says: Jun 26, 2016. 2:07 PM REPLY
Hello, thanks for sharing your hard work. Please on what basis did you assume the inclination angle of the gantry ?
GREAT to hear that you managed to build it under 1000E. this is also my target . :D
Thanks,
Dean
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-CNC-milling-machine/
Kreat0r says: Nov 24, 2015. 10:27 AM REPLY
could you please include the Parts list to buy?thanks
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-CNC-milling-machine/
Trochilidesign says: Mar 29, 2016. 4:26 AM REPLY
The Hackaday article was initiated by one of my friends, he follows the lackaday channel quite extensively ;) I didn't now anything about
Hackaday before they posted something
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ahmedrpspl says: Aug 18, 2015. 5:39 AM REPLY
Can you proved electrical items with software
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