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Sugar, why we can't resist it
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MAYA GODS + LIFE WITH LIONS
SUGAR
WHY WE CAN’T RESIST IT5
5 Black footed Albatross (Phozbastra nigripes)
Wittens smitten Size: tiead and body length, 68 - 74 cm (26
29.1 inches), wingspan, 193 - 216 cm (76 - 85 inches
Weight: 2.7 - 37 kg (6 - 8.2 lbs) Habitat: Ranges widely over north Pacific; breeds in the Hawaiian
§) Isiands and Japan Surviving number: Estimated at 129,000 breeding individuals
Paci
*, . Gecon
Balancing act. The black-footed albatross balances
long sojourns at sea with family time spent at
breeding colonies. At sea, it sits on the surface
while foraging for food, drinking seawater and
secreting salt from glands above its eyes. Back on,
land, monogamous breeding pairs strengthen
their bonds with ritualized display postures,
induding bowing, preening and calling with bills
pointing to the sky. But with each female laying
WILDLIFE AS CANON SEES IT
just one egg a year and only 6.9 out of 100 eggs
becoming breeding adults, populations are barely
in equilibrium. Bycatch, pollution and introduced
predators could all tip the balance.
‘AS we see it, we can help make the world a better
place. Raising awareness of endangered species
is just one of the ways we at Canon are taking
action—for the good of the planet we call hore.
Visit canon.com/environment to learn more.
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Living With Lions
Africa's ions may number Me more than 35,000.
In Kenya a program called Lion Guardians points
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shouts: divine light at the bottom of a natural well
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Photographs by Paul NicKlen and Shaul Schwarz
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Technology is redefining how caves are explored.
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August 2013
Editor's Note
Letters
‘Survival Guide
VISIONS >
‘Your Shot
NEXT
Snake Hunt
Frou uhet happened when Revd
Stclamscpensowononyions yg >
World Without Words » Keres
‘hat do the ptres tothe
reais?
Let the River Flow
Foods lant far Glen Canyon
Demboneft he rang Ganon
Viking Mice
Many Rouse tas Noro ancestry
Recipe for Dilbit
ites sand product sted wth
chemicals-and is got problems.
Carping About Carp
‘sien spectos are invading American
waters. One solution: carp cakes!
Smell a Fly>
Goldenrod can sniff'em out-and
release toxins to deter egg laying.
NG Connect
‘The Moment
Flashback
On the Cover A single cupcake can contain up to 800 calories, depending
conte size and gourmet credentials, Theres alot of butter the batter and
Subscriptions For subscriptions, git memberships, or changes of address,
Contact Customer Service at ngmservice.com or all 1-800-NGS-LINE (647-5469),
Outside the US. and Canada please call + 1813-979
DIGITAL EDITIONS
Lone
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Meet he ons-and the
people who study them,
Sacred Cenotes
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TAKE BACK THEWEEKEND
here's nothing like a Friday-Sunday
sojourn to widen the parameters
of today’s mile-a-minute world.
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weekend and explore new territories.
DELAWARE
WATER GAP-
Just a two:
hour trip from
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the 1000-foot-
deep “gap”
is all about the magic of the Delaware River,
a place of scenic wonders. Weekend warriors
can enjoy the best of outdoor recreation, from
angling for trout to horseback riding to trekking
asstretch of the Appalachian Trail all on nearly
70,000 acres of preserved parklands. Taking to
the waters via kayak, canoe, raft, or tube is the
ideal way to experience the area's dramatic and
‘ever-changing landscapes-keep an eye out for
peregrine falcons, golden eagles, and ospreys.
History buts will appreciate Native American
archaeological sites and Millbrook Village, a
fascinating and accurate replica-replete with
mills and craft demonstrations-of a typical rural
‘community in the late 19th century. Be sure to
set aside a couple of hours to hunt for covetable
antiques and linger over sophisticated cuisine
in New Hope and lesser-known Lambertville
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Gatehouse Country tnn, Shawnee
on Delanare, Pennsylvania
Delaware Water Gap, Pennsyivania
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A scenic 85 miles northwest
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is known as "Shangri-La of
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sustainable living, starting with
farm-tortable cuisine. Among the area's outdoor challenges,
technical mountain climbing gets top billing. But Ojai’s most
magnetic force is something called the Pink Moment, a high:
powered sunset that bathes the Ojai valley in deep pinks and
lavenders. Make your way to Topatopa bluffs to witness this
natural phenomenon, and then wind down at an Ojai spa hotel.
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Per)
waEDITOR'S NOTE
The Truth About Lions
| met ecologist Craig Packer in 1988. | was a young
photographer on assignment in the Serengeti for
the first time, trying to feel my way around the
craft of natural history photography. | think his
first reaction to me was annoyance. He had good
reason. | was green and untested in those days.
Craig, who'd been director of the Serengeti Lion
Project since 1978, was the scientist who knew
lions. | was just beginning to learn,
Craig is not an easy man to work around. He's
seen itll and isn’t reluctant to tell you so. But
he is rigorous in the integrity of his science. For
Craig it’s all about the data and getting the facts
right. This made him and his team the keystone
collaborators for this month's cover story on
Serengeti lions, written by David Quammen
and photographed by Michael (Nick) Nichols.
Craig's research provided the solid underpinning
for David and Nick's work. “We sat down with him
with maps," Nick says. “He told us where to go and
what to look for.” Craig's is a shoestring operation.
His passion comes without frills. His equipment
consists of five beat-up Land Rovers held together
by wire, a falling-down house with no power, and
staff that works hard for the sheer love of it. “There
is nothing,” Nick says, “that even smells of a wasted
dollar.” Itis all about the research—and the lions,
“Getting into Craig’s head on lions,” Nick con-
tinues, “was the primer that allowed me to skip
the cliché of the animal we all think we know.”
aa
Members of the Serengeti Lion Project team meet by moonlight in an infrared photo made in Tanzania's Serengeti
National Park. They are ({rom left) Daniel Rosengren, Ali Swanson, Craig Packer, Ingela Jansson, Stan Mwampeta
4a} “IF WE ARE NOT CURIOUS
ABOUT ALL LIVING THINGS ON
Ce) STN ame tate),
Brea Te
cece saci
knowing that National Geographic
RUM ete Da eae
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Please remember the National Geographic Society with a generous bequest in your will or
trust. One hundred percent of your gift, no matter what size, will support the important con-
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To learn more, contact the National Geographic Office of Estate Planning:
Tel: 1-800-226-4438 | Email: plannedgiftinfo@ngs.org | Web: www.nationalgeographic.org/donate
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13PGFC0BBLETTERS
De-Extinction
Resurrecting extinct species just to see whether it can be
done is not only impractical and wasteful but also borderline
immoral, Humans continue to reduce the numbers of tigers,
for this obviously has a God
complex. We are merely one
species in this chain. We are
as vulnerable as all the other
species. One chance virus, one
chance astronomical event
could wipe us out. Just because
we believe we have higher intel-
ligence and an understanding of
this does not mean that we are
arbiters. We cannot control what
species live or die. If we try, we
change the balance of things.
ANTHONY BERG
Madison, Wisconsin
Y
elephants, whales—you name it-through poaching and
habitat destruction and take more and more of the planet for
ourselves and leave less and less for other animals. To bring
a species back only to force it to live in a zoo or research
laboratory, or to release it to struggle for survival in an envi-
ronment that can't support it, is cruel and unnecessary but
consistent with our human-centric view of the world.
ALLISON MYERS
Freeville, New York
We can never truly know the
real nature, habits, and traits
“What intrigues me is just
that it's really cool.” | wonder
how many scientists on the
Manhattan Project had simil
sentiments, Just saying.
RANDALL WEBSTER
‘South Lake Tahoe, California
Reviving extinct woolly mam-
moths would be tremendous.
But what about Australopithe-
cus, Homo habilis, and Homo
erectus? Do we put them in
zoos? Is it murder if you kill one?
Are they human or not? Are they
FEEDBACK Readers shared their thoughts on bringing back extinct species ¢
“Reviving them is a short-
»
‘change the long term.”
“What woud raise the baby and teach it the
ways ofthe species? Have we frgoten
the whole nature versus nurture dictum?”
x
term dead end that doesn't
allowed to hold jobs, get student
loans, and draw Social Security
disability benefits? Still, it would
be important to learn their level
of capacity for abstract symbols,
language, and culture.
KENNETH W. JOHNSON
Lawrenceville, Georgia
Anyone who chooses to believe
in evolution and Darwin's theory
of survival of the fittest clearly
understands that species will
come and go. Whoever decided
that we humans are responsible
‘It would create a potential
ecological catastrophe
of these lost creatures. A
resurrected animal will learn
the behaviors of its adoptive
parent/cousin, and therefore
de-extinction can only bring
back a look-alike. The true
animal has been lost forever.
‘SAM WILLIAMS:
London, England
Conections
‘The photograph of the tablet on page 22
should have been additionally crecited to
the Archaeological Museum of Bologna.
“Will we resurrect them
only to keep them
“RR
EMAIL ngsforum@ngmcom TWITTER @NatGeoMag_WRITE National Geographic Magazine, PO Box 98199,
Washington, DC 20090-8199. Include name, address, and daytime telephone. Letters may be ecited for clay and length.
6 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC + AUGUST 2013Leto. ta i
ON eked — INTO THE UNKNOWN
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saadLETTERS
I think the bigger and more
fundamental questions than
“Should we do this?” are “What
are we doing this for?" and
“What do we count as a real,
biological species?" If returning
extinct species to intact, natural
ecosystems is the goal, that
won't be achieved by creating
an animal with spliced gene
fragments or by retuming a
long-extinct animal such as the
woolly mammoth to a now alien
ecosystem. All you would be do-
ing is creating another Jurassic
Park—a spectacle for humans,
MATTHEW PUDOVSKIS
Vancouver, Brtish Columbia
Iwas given a completely
different thought. Let's try to
save the species we still have
first. Can't we try cloning rhino
horns and elephant tusks?
Flood the market with the
cloned products, and the value
to poachers goes to zero,
‘TOM MOROOKIAN
North Fort Myers, Florida
In the past few years I have
seen the rise of the simplistic
jiew of man as the demon of
all things environmental. “You
could say an extinct specie:
the collateral damage of human
existence” was your punch line,
As a veterinarian, | see the
interplay of genetics, disease,
Predation, food sources, re-
productive choices of mating
and nesting, et cetera, as having
huge impact on the survival
of a species. Why then does
each article at some point have
to point to man as the ultimate
causal force for evil? If you
truly are Darwinian in your
scientific view, remember it
is the “survival of the fittest,”
which means some species
didn't survive even when man
‘was not on this Earth
KENNETH ACHTERBERG
Haslett, Michigan
Reviving extinct species is a
very bad idea. The reasons are
clear. We do not have enough
food to feed the species that
are alive now. We do not have
enough appropriate land for
them to live on. We cannot stop
people who insist that acquir-
ing a part of a living creature is
worth killing that creature. We
cannot stop fishermen who use
nets to kill fish in the sea that
they don't even want.
JUDITH ANTROBUS
New York, New York
Resurrecting an extinct
species would certainly add
biological richness to an eco-
system, but how long would
it last? The author's descrip-
tion of the de-extinction
process would create an entire
population from only a few
individuals. The problem with
‘small populations is they lack
the necessary genetic variability
to adapt and evolve, ultimately
causing them to go the way of
the dodo once again
NATE KEIPER
‘Toledo, Ohio
am greatly in favor of genet-
ics, but the law of unintended
consequences might involve
reviving mammoths only to see
them threatened with extinc-
tion, like elephants, for the ivory
in their tusks.
ABE GRUBER
San Diego, California
I think it would be amazing to
have woolly mammoths walk
the Earth again,
ANDREW DAVID MOWER.
Layton, Utah
Have we not learned from
past experience the dangers of
introducing foreign or invasive
species into an ecosystern?
Introducing species absent from
an ecosystem for hundreds, if
not thousands, of years means
they are no longer native but
new species, and the ecosys-
tom likely has adapted to their
absence. Also, no species are
independent, as they rely on
predators, prey, and other
species, be they bacteria or
other co-dependent species.
Are the scientists planning on
bringing these back as well?
GLENN c. ROTH
Calgary, Alberta
As if coolness or anything
related to some concept of
exploring the unknown were
in any way central to this,
issue. Reintroducing extinct
species into nature is a complex
process that goes far beyond
re-creating an organism in a
laboratory. It involves fiscal,
social, and ecological ramifica-
tions that were-to my extreme
disappointment—barely if ever
touched on in the article.
JONATHAN HIRSCH
Larkspur, California
Although the idea of bringing
back the dead intrigues me,
the possible damage to our
environment, which is already
unstable, makes me wary.
‘JULIANA KIM
Bronauille, New YorkSurrender to
400 Carats
of Temptation
The Stauer Voros Collection is a magnificently
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re you ready for this necklace? You might think you are,
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Possible side effects may include: spontancous kissing
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to get away for the weekend. Some may experience: long
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und dramat
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about ruby, the stone notorious for provoking passion, lust
and intense romantic emotions throughout history. One look
at the Voros and its easy to see what all the fuss is about. Each
smooth-polished nugget in the Voros Necklace is a genuine
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incomparable mystique of rubies. The 18" strand is hand-
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We don’t play by the luxury rules. We took the Voros
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‘This soring, award-winning adventure photographer TIM KEMPLE
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beaches, and glaciers to test the new Olympus Tough Series.
While there, the epic landscapes were pummeled by sudden
extreme weather changes, making a waterproot, treezeproot,
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shares how he got these photos.
ALL IMAGES WERE TAKEN WITH THE OLYMPUS TOUGH,
TRAIL RUNNING LAKI LAVA FIELDS, ICELAND
(On this day ultre-tunner Rory Bosio and | encountered rain and
vwind—but that was perfect for the images | wanted to capture,
“The rain had tumed the moss an electic green, the waterfalls were
raging in the distance, and the passing fog created another layer
cf depth in the imagery that was unique. And there was nobody
con the trails for miles!
BOULDERING IN THORSMORK, ICELAND
We had heard rumors of bouldering potential in a particular spot
in Thérsmork, or “Thor's Forest.” a beautiful valley below lecland!'s
southem volcanic mountains. Once we found i, | started looking
‘or an angle that allowed the climber, Blake Hendrix, to pop trom
the frame and show the depth of the landscape. To create a layer
in the foreground thal guides the eye to the subject, I had to lay the
‘camera in the damp moss.
EXPLORING AN ICE CAVE, EYJAFJALLAJOKULL, ICELAND.
‘Alter a day of adventuring, we tured one last comer and saw
2 small river pouring out of a glacier. It created this giant cave al
its base. We were lke kids and just ran ful-speed to explore the
‘cave. It was cold inside and water was dripping everywhere. When
|Imade it to the back of the cave, | turned and saw Rery Bosio
reaching for the natural water flow. Luckily I had my camera in my
pocket, and I was able to snap a couple of candid moments,
om To find cut more about the
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LETTERS
Delaware
The text repeats a common misuse of the
name of the stream that flows through
the valley. It is Brandywine Creek, not
river, as officially designated by the US.
Board on Geographic Names. Most just
call it the Brandywine. Now let's debate
the proper pronunciation of “creek.”
HARRY THEMAL
Wilmington, Delaware
Though often informally referred to by
the variant name Brandywine River, as itis
{in our text, the Brandywine was officially
recognized as a creek in 1959.
Mahogany
We censure the Chinese for the slaugh-
ter of Africa’s elephants and rhinos.
But now it appears, since we have been
its primary importer, we must censure.
ourselves for the slaughter of Peru's
mahogany.
KENNETH BARNES
st Petersburg, Florida
Manatees
The photo on pages 84-85 of kayakers
harassing manatees is an excellent exam-
ple of ignorance. Each of them ought to
get the gift of three friendly black bears
to live in their home. The bears’ function
would be to watch their every move for
hours on end, plus obstruct their move-
ments whenever possible.
JAMES R. WISIALOWSKI
‘Wheeling, West Virginia
Europe’s Wild Men
We wanted to add another set of wild
men to the list. In February 2009 we.
were lucky to see Hungary's version at
the Busdjards festival in Mohacs. The
monsters, called bus, had a gentle
demeanor but made lots of noise as they
chased away winter and Ottoman Turks:
in a continuation of a very old festival.
DAREN AND AMY STENNES
Arvade, Colorado0 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
‘The National Geographic Society is charterod in Washington, Das
Inspiring people to care about the planet
a nonprofit scientific
land educational organization “Tor the increage and difusion of geographic knowledge.”
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Pesonr Hwan, Overt
enim mir Crane MoneNOW’S THE TIME
TO HELP PROTECT
YOURSELF WITH
THE SHINGLES
VACCINE
NO MATTER HOW
HEALTHY YOU FEEL,
SHINGLES COULD
STILL HAPPEN TO YOU.
ZOSTAVAX
Zoster Vaccine Live
Shingles is caused by the same
virus that causes chickenpox.
The virus stays in your body
and can resurface at any
time as Shingles — a painful, 4
blistering rash. And no matter acualdlaicalradhimoge
how healthy you feel, your risk increases as you
get older. ks
pil
a
eo
The sooner you get vaccinated with ZOSTAVAX, the a
better your chances of protecting yourself from
vaccinated to help prevent Shingles.
*AciP=Advisory Committee on Immunization Practices
Copyright ©2013 Merck Sharp & Dohme Corp,, a subsidiary of
Merck & Co,, Inc.All rights reserved. VACC-1077054-0002 05/13
Shingles, In fact, the ACIP* of the CDC (Centers for SS
Disease Control and Prevention) recommends that
appropriate adults 60 years of age and older get 7Talk to your health care professional to
see if ZOSTAVAX® (Zoster Vaccine Live)
is right for you.
ZOSTAVAX is given as a single shot. ZOSTAVAX cannot
be used to treat Shingles, or the nerve pain that may
follow Shingles, once you have it. For more information,
visit ZOSTAVAX.com or call 1-877-9 SHINGLES.
ABOUT ZOSTAVAX
ZOSTAVAX is a vaccine that is used for adults 50 years of
age or older to prevent Shingles (also known as zoster)
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION
ZOSTAVAX does not protect everyone, so some people
who get the vaccine may still get Shingles.
You should not get ZOSTAVAX if you are allergic to any
of its ingredients, including gelatin or neomycin, have a
weakened immune system, take high doses of steroids,
or are pregnant or plan to become pregnant. You should
not get ZOSTAVAX to prevent chickenpox.
Talk to your health care professional if you plan to get
ZOSTAVAX at the same time as PNEUMOVAX°23
(Pneumococcal Vaccine Polyvalent) because it may be
better to get these vaccines at least 4 weeks apart
Possible side effects include redness, pain, itching, swelling,
hard lump, warmth, or bruising at the injection site, as well
as headache.
ZOSTAVAX contains a weakened chickenpox virus. Tell your
health care professional if you will be in close contact with
newborn infants, someone who may be pregnant and has
not had chickenpox or been vaccinated against chickenpox,
or someone who has problems with their immune system
Your health care professional can tell you what situations
you may need to avoid.
You are encouraged to report negative side effects of
prescription drugs to the FDA. Visit www.fda.govimedwatch
or call 1-800-FDA-1088
Please read the Patient Information on the adjacent page
for more detailed information.
BEFORE YOU GET SHINGLES,
GET VACCINATED.Patient Information about
9989115
ZOSTAVAX" (pronounced “ZOS tah vax")
Generic name: Zoster Vaccine Live
You should read this summary
of information about ZOSTAVAX
before you are vaccinated. If
you have any questions about
ZOSTAVAX after reading this page,
you should ask your health care
provider. This information does
Not take the place of talking about
ZOSTAVAX with your doctor, nurse,
or other health care provider. Only
your health care provider can decide
if ZOSTAVAX is right for you.
What is ZOSTAVAX and how does
itwork?
ZOSTAVAX is a vaccine that is used
for adults 50 years of age or older
to prevent shingles (also known as
zoster)
ZOSTAVAX contains a weakened
‘chickenpox virus (varicella-zoster
virus).
ZOSTAVAX works by helping your
immune system protect you from
getting shingles.
Ifyou do get shingles even
though you have been vaccinated,
ZOSTAVAX may help prevent the
nerve pain that can follow shingles
in some people. ZOSTAVAX does
not protect everyone, so some
people who get the vaccine may still
get shingles.
ZOSTAVAX cannot be used to treat
shingles, or the nerve pain that may
follow shingles, once you have it
What do Ineed to know about
shingles and the virus that
‘causes it?
Shingles is caused by the same
virus that causes chickenpox. Once
you have had chickenpox, the virus
an stay in your nervous system for
many years. For reasons that are
not fully understood, the virus may
become active again and give you
shingles. Age and problems with the
immune system may increase your
chances of getting shingles.
Shingles is a rash that is usually
fon one side of the body. The rash
bogins as a cluster of small red spots
that often blister, The rash can be
painful. Shingles rashes usually last
Up to 30 days and, for most people,
the pain associated with the rash
lessens as it heals,
‘Copyright ©2008 Merck Sharp & Dohme Corp.
2 subsisiary of Merck & Co. Ine.
Al vights reserved
Who should not get ZOSTAVAX?
You should not get ZOSTAVAX if,
you:
* are allergic to any of its
ingredients.
* are allergic to gelatin or neomycin
+ have a weakened immune
system (for example, an immune
doficiency, leukemia, lymphoma,
or HIVIAIDS)
* take high doses of steroids by
injection or by mouth.
* are pregnant or plan to get
pregnant,
You should not get ZOSTAVAX to
prevent chickenpox.
Children should not get ZOSTAVAX.
How is ZOSTAVAX given?
ZOSTAVAX is given as a single dose
by injection under the skin.
What should | tell my health care
You should tell your health care
provider if you:
* have or have had any medical
problems.
* take any medicines, including
non-prescription medicines, and
dietary supplements.
+ have any allergies, including
allergies to neomycin or gelatin.
+ had an allergic reaction to another
* are pregnant or plan to become,
Pregnant.
* are breast-feeding,
Tell your health care provider if
you expect to be in close contact
(including household contact) with
newborn infants, someone who
may be pregnant and has not had
chickenpox or been vaccinated
against chickenpox, or someone
who has problems with their
immune system. Your health care
provider can tell you what situations
you may need to avoid,
Can get ZOSTAVAX with other
vaccines?
Talk to your health care provider if
you plan to get ZOSTAVAX at the
same time as the flu vaccine.
Talk to your health care provider if
you plan to gst ZOSTAVAX at the
same time as PNEUMOVAX"23
(Pneumococcal Vaccine Polyvalent)
because it may be better to get these
vaccines at least 4 weeks apart.
What are the possible side effects of
ZOSTAVAX?
The most common side effects
that people in the clinical studies
reported after receiving the vaccine
include:
* redness, pain, itching, swelling,
hard lump, warmth, or bruising
where the shot was given.
* headache
‘The following additional side effects
have been reported with ZOSTAVAX:
* allergic reactions, which may be
serious and may include difficulty
in breathing or swallowing. If you
have an allergic reaction, call your
doctor right away.
chickenpox
fever
hhives at the injection site
joint pain
muscle pain
rash
rash at the injection site
swollen glands near the injection
site (that may last a few days to a
few weeks}
Tell your health care provider if you
have any new or unusual symptoms
after you receive ZOSTAVAX. For
a complete list of side effects, ask
your health care provider.
Call 1-800-986-8999 to report any
exposure to ZOSTAVAX during
pregnancy,
What are the ingredients of
ZOSTAVAX?
Active Ingredient: a weakened form
of the varicella-zoster virus.
Inactive Ingredients: sucrose,
hydrolyzed porcine gelatin, sodium
chloride, monosodium L-glutamate,
sodium phosphate dibasic,
potassium phosphate monobasic,
potassium chloride.
‘This page summarizes important
information about ZOSTAVAX. If you
would like more information, talk to
your health care provider or visit the
website at www.ZOSTAVAX.com or
Issued June 2011
Distributed by:
Merck Sharp & Dohme Corp,
2 subsidiary of Merck & Co,, Inc.
Whitehouse Station, NJ 08889, USA
\VACC-1077054-0002 05/13,MOoN LANDS ON Man!
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National Geographic
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EXPERTISE
Butterfly taxonomist
LOCATION
Papua New Guinea
Storm Tossed | w2s
making a census of Pacific buttertos
and was on the lookout for new spe-
cies on the remote Lusancay Islands.
‘There were five of us on a 23-foot din-
ghy | hired to move between islands—
an operator, his two assistants, me,
and a local Kawa chief who wanted
a lit=when we were hit by a squall
‘Then the engine stopped. The storm
was raging, and we started taking on
water. We bailed out using the only,
thing at hand: coconut husk halves.
A dinghy is hard to maneuver. It
tends to turn broadside to the waves,
making it dangerously unstable. We
had only wo oars, andthe assistants
were rowing furiously to keep the
bow into the wind, but as soon as
they stopped, the dinghy would drift
sideways again. The pilot's attempts.
to restart the engine weren't working.
We'd been stranded for about two
hours before visibility increased and
the chief recognized two rocks jutting
out of the water. The chief and |
grabbed a tarpaulin, tied each side
to an oar, and held the rudimentary
sail up to catch the wind. Using the
20-foot stick for poling around atolls,
as a rudder, the operator steered us
‘toward Kawa Island. The chief knew
‘where it was in relation to the rocks.
With difficulty we headed to the
windless side of the island so the
‘weather wouldn't dash us against the
coral island's edge. We gripped sur-
rounding coral to pull ourselves hand
over hand to shore. Freezing and with
little food, we walked the mile to the
nearest village to spend the night. It
turned into a week, due to continu-
ing storms. Later we learned that a
passenger ferry carrying hundreds
of people had been out in the sane
weather. A wave came over the stern,
and many were lost. Thanks to a
quick-thinking Kawa chief named Nel-
son—a good omen for any Englishman
on board a ship—we were still five.
8 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHI
+ AuGUST 2015The Invention of the Year is
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How
Canine Genomics
Influence Purina ONE Nutrition
‘The civersityin the canine genome is evidenced
by the broad range in the size of diferent breeds,
(One major component in this variation of sizes
involves genetic expression of acellular signal
called “Insulin-like Growth Factor” (IGF) a link
that Purina scientists highlighted as co-authors of
an article that was featured in the journal “Science.”
To provide optimal nutrition for dogs ofall
sizes, Purina ONE has formulas for
all canine metabolisms.“Cast your mind back Fastforward to the Industrial is discarded, scrambled, or moved
15,000 years,” says Revolution in the late 18th century, elsewhere in the book,” he says.
when the wealthy began to breed This can drastically alter the flow
Dr. Matthew Breen, dogs, “not solely for ther function.” and meaning of the story.
Professor of Genomics says Breen, "but increasingly for their
at North Carolina State appearance.” Today, the American “With genome sequencing, we
University's College of Kennel Club recognizes 175 breeds, take the entire book and meta-
from massive Mastiffs to wee Chi- _phorically pass it through a paper
Veterinary Medicine. huahuas, all with discrete instincts shredder.” To assemble the genome,
He imagines a scenario but descended from a common wolf the shreddings are used to rebuild
where human encamp- ancestor. There are working dogs the "pages." Each “page” is stamped
ments would be threat- and companions—and now, dogs with a number and a comprehensive
ened by wolves looking "28 eet information may help table of contents developed
Sto save your life
to make a snack of their Another important focus of this
livestock. The humans. Purina’s longstanding partnership research is nutritional genomics.
may have thrown food with the canine genomics community Purina’s continued investment in
includes facitating geneticists’ work canine genome sequencing research
to the wolves, launching and serving as the primary sponsor —_and the analysis of theses “pages”
the symbiotic relation- ofthe biannual Advances in Canine has already provided insights that
ship between man and and Feline Genomics and Inherited have led to breakthrough nutritional
his best friend, the dog, Disease conference. These contsibu- solutions for canine health and
tions have enabled key findings and _ well-being.
new ways of applying dog genome
mapping research to be more widely For example, Purina has lever-
disseminated and shared. aged its molecular understanding
of antioxidants systems that have
Dr. Breen specializes in identify. evolved within the canine genome
ing genes in several canine cancers to protect against damaging free-
that offer hope for advancing treat- radicals
ments for both dogs and humans.
“Human and dog genomes are in- Canine genome research con-
credibly similarin that we both get tinues to enable scientists from
spontaneous genetic diseases,” he — many fields to pioneer advances
says. Moreover, itis easier to identify that impact the well-being of both
problematic areas in ados’s genome dogs and humans. “We are living
because the genetic variation among longer and it's having a huge effect
dogs of the same breed is much on aur healthcare,” says Dr. Breen,
lower than thevariation in humans, “and its the same with our pets.” By
supporting canine genomic research,
Dr. Breen explains the genome Purina is helping to improve the
sequence as a “book,” with chro- health and well-being ofall types of
obo lotslbl fetid) sooto.d| lds) ovehscbeolelioldlaljol4s
colt
“0; F .
2 mosomes as “chapters” that tell a dogs—and working to help enrich
S coet%e Specific story. ‘What we often see the quality of their years with pro-
= in cancers is that an entire chapter active owners like you. @
= .
—, ; .
=2 ay:
+: ‘
-
3
DR. MATTHEW BREEN began his career over 20 years
ago working on the Human Genome Project and has
since been pioneering comparative aspects of cancer
research with a primary focus on companion animals.
He Is Professor of Genomics at North Carolina State
University’s College of Veterinary Medicine and member of the
Center for Comparative Medicine and Translational Research.
[bol gontlacttolesiol4YOUR SHOT Tis page features two photo
readers via online voting. For more information, goto yourshotnatonalgeographic.co
prrons’ cwoice Fukuoke, Japan
During a ceremony to bless young children at Japan's Sumiyoshi Shrine in Fukuoka, Baba, a
graduate student, spied this minor assault with an artificial flower. Both brothers later laughed.
Etobicoke, Canada
Ona photo excursion
to Costa Rica, Lorenz
wanted desperately to
photograph red-eyed
tree frogs. Just before
dusk she got lucky: One
approached a branch
nearby. Unsteady, it
grabbed a stalk of fungus
to balance itself, then
quickly climbed away,
16 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC + AUGUST 2013rg
me in motion:
Celebrex can help relieve arthritis pain...so you can keep moving.
Staying active can actually relieve arthritis symptoms. But if you have arthritis, staying active can be diffcut
Celebrex can help relieve arthritis pain...so your body can stay in motion,
* Just one 200mg Celebrex a day can provide 24-hour relief for many with arthritis pain and inflammation*
* Celebrex is proven to improve pain, stiffness and daily physical function in clinical studies**
* Celebrex can be taken with or without food.
* In clinical studies, a lower percentage of patients taking Celebrex reported stomach discomfort (including
indigestion, abdominal pain, and nausea) versus those taking prescription ibuprofen and naproxen.
When it comes to finding the right arthritis treatment for you, you and your doctor need to balance the benefts with the
Tisks, So ask your doctor about prescription Celebrex. It could be an important step towards keeping your body in motion.
Visit celebrex.com or call 1-888-CELEBREX for more information.
“Individual results may vary. **Clinical studies with osteoarthritis patients.
You are encouraged to report negative side effects of prescription drugs to the FDA. Visit www fa. gow/medwatch or call 1-800-FDA-1088.
Important Safety Information:
FO ae rolvccan: have the same eerdinpecuae ithe stomach or intestines; righ bood pressure or heart
ring. They may allrease techanoeatheartattack or flue; of kidney or Iver problems,
stroke, which can lead to death. This chance increases CELEBREX should not be taken in late pregnancy
if you have heart disease or risk factors for it, such as high ‘ ;
blood pressure or when NSAIDs ae taken for long periods, lé-treatening alric reactions can occur with CELEBREX
Get help right away if you've had swelling of the face or
CELEBREX should not be used right before or after certain throat or trouble breathing, Do not take tif you have bleeding
heart surgeries. inthe stomach or intestine or you've had an asthma attack,
Serious skin reactions, or stomach and intestine problems _H¥@S, O other allergies to asprin, other NSAIDs or certain
" >MS drugs called sulfonamides.
such as bleeding and ulcers, can occur without warning
and may cause death. Patients taking aspirin and the Prescription CELEBREX should be used exactly as prescribed
elderly are at increased risk for stomach bleeding and ulcers. _at the lowest dase possible and for the shortest time needed.
See the Medication Guide on the next page for important information about Celebrex and other prescription NSAIDs.
=
CS Pfizer Helpful Answers" Uninsured? Need help paying for Pfizer medicines?
LE ny anette perpen stance Pfizer has programs that can help. Call 1-866-706-2400 or vist PfizerHelpfulAnswers.com
Tell your doctor if you have: a history of ulcers or bleeding
CELEBREX fora body in motion’ mam
(SPS62718-05 201 Par nights reserved pl 2013 (CELECOXIB CAPSULES)'S53‘What the most important information | should know about medicines
Called Non-SteroldalAnt-ittammatory Drugs (NSAIDs)?
[NSAID medicines may increase the chance ofa heart attack or stroke
that can lead to death,
This chance increases
* wih longer use of NSAID mecicines
* in people who have heart disease
[NSAID medicines should never be used right before of ater a heart
surgery called a "coronary artery bypass graft (CABG).”
[NSAID medicines can cause wiers and bleeding inthe stomach and
intestines at any time during treatment. Ulcers and bleeding:
* can happen without warning symptoms
may cause death
‘The chance ofa person geting an ulcer or bleeding Increases with:
* taking medicines called “corticosteroids” and “antcoagulnt
longer use
smoking
Atinkng alcohol
older ane
* ang poor health
[NSAIO medicines should only be used:
* ect as prescribed
+ at th lowest dase possible for your treatment
+ forthe short ime needed
‘What are Non Steridal Ant-tnlammatory Drags (NSAIDS)?
[NSAID mecicins are used fo teat pin and redness, swalin, and heat
{attammation) from modical concn such a5
+ iferent yes of ants,
Get emergency help right away if you have any of the following
symtoms:
shortness of breath or rouble rething
chest pan
weal in ne pat ors of your body
slurred spaech
sweling ofthe face or troat
‘Slop your NSAID medicine and call your healthcare provide right away
it you have any ofthe following symptoms:
nausea
more ted or weaker thn usual
+ ehing
+ your sin or eyes laokylow
«stomach pain
fue symptoms
vomt bk
the Bd your bel movement tis Waka sok
ike tar
© skin rash or blisters with fever
© unusual weight gain
‘swelling of the arms and legs, hands and feet
‘These are not all the side effects with NSAID madicines. Talk to your
‘healthcare provider or pharmacist for more information about NSAID
imeicies.
Call your doctor for medical advice about side effects. You may report
‘side effects to FDA at 1-800-FDA-1088,
(er infomation about Nor StridlAn-ntammatoy Orgs (NSADs)
* Aspinis an NSAID medic butt doesnot increase hechance ot
2 heat allack.Aspinn can cause beeing in the brain, stomach
and intestines. Aspirin can also cause ulcers in the stomach and
inestes,
+ Some of these NSAID medicines are sold in lower doses with-
‘out a prescription (over-the-counter). Talk to your healthcare pro-
vider before using over-the-counter NSAIDs for more than 10 days.
* mens cramps ad oer types of short-term pain NSAID medicines that need a prescription
Who should nol ake 2 Non-SleroidalAnt-nftammatory Drug (NSAID)?
Dara ae an SAO medene: yore ASAD)? (Gar ane | Fadrane
. ti on wt
seiner ay onerhenbricocne oe NeT@e aebON HN fenae | Catan, VoRaren, Arto (amined
+ fot pan ngnt before or after heart bypass sugery vith misoprostol)
‘Tell your healthcare provider: Diflunisal Dolobid
+ aout al you mail conditions, Elodlac Lote, Lodine XC
* sbout al ofthe mecicnes you fae. NSAIDS and some other [Fenoprofen | Nalfon, Nan 200,
matings can intact wi each other and cause senaus side [Furbprofen | Ansaid
etic Keep alist of your medicines to show to yourhealtcare | issprbtn Matin Tb Prof, Venprfen® (combined with
provider and pharmacist tygrocadone), Combunox (combined
+ HT you are pregnant, NSAID medicines should not be used by thomeod
pregnant women la in their pregnancy. th exyendone)
+ Hyovare beasteecing. Tal to your dato. Tndometfacin | Incin,ndocin SR, ndo-Lemmon,
What are the possible side effects of Non-Steroidal Anti- Indomethagan.
Joflamatory Drugs (NSAIDS)? Ketoprofen | Orwail
Serious side effects include: Retoriac_——| Tora
* ‘eat atack MefenamicAei_| Poste
* stoke Melricam | Matic
high lod pressure Nabumetone | Relafen
heart fare fom body swing (id retention) Naproxen Naprosyn, Hraprox Araprox DS, Eo-Wapronm,
kidney problems including kidnay fare Naprln,Naprapac(copackagad with
Mest a ers nf sonal ese tensoprazle
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: : may increase tei or stoke.
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UBIOSOLD OUT
rece
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SKYCAST
Overhead this month
in parts of the world
iy August 10-13
Y Perseid meteor
August 26
© oak forNeptone
PYTHON CHALLENGE
What happened
when Florida
declared open
season on pythons?
FLORIDA HAS DISCOVERED something the parents of teenage boys have Blake Russ of the group
known for years: Snakes escape. For decades wholesalers in Florida Florida Python Hunters
have imported tens of thousands of pythons to supply American ‘as his hands full. Russ
and international pet stores. Among the most popular has been the ‘won $1,000 for catching
Burmese python, a relatively docile species found widely across South one ofthe Python
Challenge’ longest
snakes: It measured
eleven fet one inch.
and Southeast Asia that grows to about 20 feet and can lay up toa
hundred eggs in a clutch. So what makes Florida home to the python
business now makes it simply home. Thousands of the snakes, perhaps
multiples of that, are now permanently established as a part of the.
state's ecosystem. How established is yet unclear.
In January the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission
launched a Burmese python hunting tournament, the 2013 Python
Challenge, awarding cash prizes to the person who brought in the most
dead pythons and the largest. Nearly 1,600 people from 38 states regis-
tered in two classes: licensed snake hunter and amateur. Contestants
were advised to kill the snakes using a bolt gun, a firearm, or a machete.
The contest’s goal, according to Frank Mazzotti
ecology at the University of Florida, was to contain the snakes, gain
insight into their lives, and bring attention to the invasive species issue.
Days appear numbered for the big-snake business. In 2010 Florida
outlawed Burmese pythons and several other “giant” snake species as.
pots, and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service has imposed a federal ban
on their importation or interstate transfer.
By the end of the month-long contest, licensed snake hunter Ruben
Ramirez—captain of a group called the Florida Python Hunters—had
caught the most pythons overall, an astounding 18 of the total 68
harvested, Ramirez's team members wanted to bring their catch in
alive but were told they would be disqualified. Instead they shot their
snakes with a pellet gun. Said one team member, “It was like shooting
my own dog.” —Bryan Christy
18 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC + AUGUST 2013 oro KANE oseNEXT
World
Without
Words
Ever since the earliest,
recorded paintings
were made on cave
walls in northern Spain,
humans have used
visuals to communicate.
Some of these message
systems are just lists
or calendars. Are any
of them truly universal
languages—with sen-
tences—or are they just,
collections of universally
understood icons?
Alanguage needs
grammar. How can an
organized arrangement
of pictures be precise
and subtle enough to
convey metaphor? What
do you “read” here:
RET RBED
Does it say, “At night,
a person goes home
to bed and dreams of
snakes"? Or could it be,
“After cutting his (or her)
nails, a person goes into
a house but can't get
to sleep because the
thought of snakes keeps
him (or her) awake"?
One problem (or one
pleasure!) with pictures
is that we read into them
what we want. Also, both
of the interpretations
above assume that you
are reading from left
to right. How universal
is that? -Nigel Holmes
‘A SELECTIVE TIME LINE OF PICTORIAL LANGUAGES:
cow pk
Up to 40,800 years ago
paintings
about 2400 80. $ Sumerian
co a ee
wilig food waka
avout 20046. eaypin
RlerOYBhS ute (ine sound o be eter
120080. Maya
calendar
icons ainot
‘0.900-1900 $ American
indian
Petroglyphs»,
1925-1945 (HMMM) The bridge between historical and,
modern pictorial language is
social scientist Otto Neurath.
Neurath used charts
composed of rows of tiny
Tons to tustrate, map, and
‘quantify specs ofits
Hnetetit
He called his system isotype
(international System of
Typographic Picture Education)
Grane" LXer
Bliss) ent herve
wos O-AY BR
Emoticons
(Scott ad)
CowrRoUsh ae
Anca
‘ENLARGED
Plain,
Four males ated JS.
th Kies proved
cng.
ye
ae F
?
SIMBA SURVIVORS
2iemalesThe Killers, a male coalition of four, earned their
‘name with lethal attacks on females. They almost
killed their rival C-Boy too. Because good territory
ere ee eee ants
competitors are part of the natural struggle.THEY WERE HANDSOME
DEVILS, A QUARTET OF
EIGHT-YEAR-OLD MALES,
RESTING IN A COMPANION-
ABLE CLUSTER. THEY
LOOKED FORBIDDING
AND SMUG.
Jua Kali pride and shifted his attentions cast.
Hildur, his coalition partner, who'd been so little
help in the pinch, went with him, By the time I
got a glimpse of C-Boy three years later, he and
Hildur had established control over two other
prides, Simba East and Vumbi, whose territories
lay amid the open plains and kopjes (rocky out-
crops) south of the Ngare Nanyuki River. This
is not the most hospitable part of the Serengeti
for lions and their prey—during the dry season
it can be lean and difficult—but it offered C-Boy
and Hildur an opportunity to start fresh.
I was traveling through that area with Daniel
Rosengren, another adventuresome Swede, who
had taken over the lion-monitoring role from
Jansson, Way out here, east of the main tour-
ism area and south of the river, the great vistas
of grassland rise and fall smoothly, like oceanic
swells, punctuated every few miles by a cluster
of kopjes. ‘The kopjes, granitic lumps festooned
with trees and shrubs, standing above the plains
like garnished gumdrops, offer shade and secu-
rity and lookout points for resting lions. You can.
drive for days in this corner of the park and not
see a tourist vehicle. Along with Michael (Nick)
Nichols and his photo team, who were spending
months at a field camp up by the riverbed, we
had the area to ourselves.
“That afternoon the radio signal in Rosengren’
headphones led us to Zebra Kopjes, where, amid
the cover, we found the collared female of the
Vumbis. Beside her was a magnificent male
with a thick mane that cascaded off his neck
46 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC + AUGUST 2013
and shoulders like a velvet cape,
shading from umber to black. It
was C-Boy.
From just 40 feet away, even
through binoculars, I could detect
no sign of injuries to his flanks or
his rear. The punctures had healed.
“On lions,” Rosengren told me,
“most scars disappear after a while,
unless they're around the nose or
mouth?” C-Boy had made a new life
for himself in a new place, with new
lionesses, and seemed to be thriv-
ing. He and Hildur had fathered
several more litters of cubs. And just the night
before—so we heard from Nichols, who had seen
it—the Vumbi females brought down an eland, a
very large hunk of prey, after which C-Boy had
laid his imperious male forepaw on the carcass,
claiming first bites. C-Boy had fed on the eland
alone, taking choice morsels but not too much,
before allowing the lionesses and their cubs to
get at it. Hildur had been elsewhere, presumably
consorting with another estrous female. So they
were living the good life, those two, with all the
prerogatives of resident male lions. This was just
12 hours before we saw evidence suggesting that
trouble had followed them east.
The trouble was male competition. Early
next morning Rosengren drove us north from
Nichols’ camp to the river, seeking a pride known
as Kibumbu, whose small cubs had been fathered
by still another coalition. Those males had gone
absent in recent months—departed to places un-
known, for reasons unknown—and Rosengren
‘wondered who might have supplanted them. ‘That
was his assignment, within the broader context of,
Packer’ lion studies: to chronicle the comings and
goings, the births and the deaths, the affiliations
and retreats that affect pride size and territorial
tenure, If the Kibumbus had new daddies, who
might they be? Rosengren had a suspicion—and
it was confirmed when, amid the high grass of the
riverbank, we came upon the Killers.
‘They were handsome devils, a quartet of
eight-year-old males, resting in a companion-
able cluster. They looked forbidding and smug.‘They're probably two sets of brothers, Rosengren
told me, born within months of each other in
2004. They had been dubbed “the Killers” back
in 2008 by another field assistant, based on his
inference that they killed three collared fe-
males, one by one, rather systematically, in a
drainage just west of the Seronera River. Such
male-on-female violence wasn't utterly aber-
rant—it might even be adaptive for males in
some cases, opening space for prides that they
control by removing competition in the form of
neighboring females—but in this case it won the
males a malign reputation.
Although Rosengren told me their individual
names as recorded on the cards (Malin, Viking,
et cetera), his preference was to call them by
their numbers: 99, 98, 94, 93. Those numerals
did seem somehow more concordant with their
air of opaque, stolid menace. Male 99, seen in
profile, had the convex nose line of a Roman
senator, as well as @ darkish mane, though not
so dark as C-Boy’s. Inspecting him through bin-
oculars, I noticed a couple of small wounds on
the left side of 99's face.
Rosengren eased the Land Rover closer, and
two of the others, 93 and 94, stirred, turning
toward us. In the golden light of sunrise we saw
facial injuries on them too: a slice to the nose,
abit of swelling, a gash below the right ear still
glistening with pus. Those are fresh, Rosengren
said. Something happened last night. And not
just a spat over shared food; coalition part-
ners don't do such damage to one another. It
must have been a brawl with other lions. That
raised two questions, Whom had the Killers
fought? And what did the other guy look like
this morning?
Then, as the day progressed and we made
other rounds, it seemed that C-Boy was missing.
“mostLy L1oNs biz because they kill each other?”
Craig Packer told me, in response to a question
about fatalities. “The number one cause of death
for lions, in an undisturbed environment, is
other lions”
He broke that into categories. At least 25
percent of cub loss is owed to infanticide by
incoming males. Females too, given the chance,
will sometimes kill cubs from neighboring
prides. They will even kill another adult female,
he said, ifshe unwisely wanders into their ambit.
Resources are limited, prides are territorial, and
“its a tough hood out there”
Males operate just as jealously. “Male coali-
tions are gangs, and if they find a strange male
that's hitting on their ladies, they'll kill him?
And males will kill adult females if it suits their
purposes, as the Killers had shown. You see a
lot of bite wounds on lions, reflecting the com-
petitive struggle for food, territory, reproductive
success, sheer survival. With luck, the wounds
heal. Less luck, and the loser is killed in a fierce
leonine battle, or he limps away, losing blood,
maybe crippled, maybe destined to die slowly
of infection or starvation. “So the lion is the
number one enemy of lions,” Packer said. “It's
why, ultimately, lions live in groups.” Holding
territory is crucial, and the best territorial loca
tions—places he calls hot spots, such as stream
confluences, where prey tend to become concen-
trated—serve as incentive for social cooperation.
“The only way you can monopolize one of those
very valuable and very scarce hot spots” he says,
thinking like a lion, is as “a gang of like-sexed
companions who work as a unit”
‘That theme has emerged strongly from
Packer's research, done with various collabora-
tors and students over the decades. It’s not just
the need for joint effort in making and defend-
ing kills, he has found, that drives lionesses to
live in prides. It's also the need to protect off-
spring and retain those premium territories.
His data show that, although pride size varies
widely, from just one adult female to as many
as 18, prides in the middle range succeed best
at protecting their cubs and maintaining their
territorial tenure, Prides that are too small tend
to lose cubs, Periods of estrus for the adult fe-
males often are synchronized—especially if an
episode of male infanticide has killed off all their
young and reset their clocks—so that cubs of
different mothers are born at about the same
time. This allows the formation of créches, lion
nursing groups in which females suckle and
LIONS OF THE SERENGETI 47protect not just their own cubs but others too.
Such cooperative mothering, efficient in itself, is
further encouraged by the fact that the females
ofa pride are related—as mothers and daughte
and sisters and aunts, sharing a genetic inter-
est in one another's reproductive success. But
prides that are too large do poorly also, because
of excessive within-pride competition. A pride
of two to six adult females seems to be optimal
on the plains.
Male coalition size is governed by similar
logic. Coalitions are formed, typically, among
young males who have outgrown the natal pride
and gone off together to cope with adulthood,
One pair of brothers may team with another
pair, their half-siblings or cousins, or even with,
unrelated individuals that turn up, solitary, no-
madic, and needing partnership. Put too many
such males together as a roving posse, each hun-
gry for food and for chances to mate, and you
have craziness, But a lone male, or a coalition,
that’s too small—just a pair, say—will suffer dis
advantages also.
“That was C-Boy’s dilemma, With no partner
other than Hildur, a handsome enough male
who showed great eagerness to mate but little
to fight, C-Boy confronted the Killers, in their
aggres
ive ascendancy, virtually alone. Not even
his resplendent black mane could neutralize
three-against-one odds. Maybe by now he was
already dead. If so, Rosengren and I realized,
those minor battle injuries on the faces of the
tevider
Killers might be the la
anyone would ever see.
of C-Boy that
‘THAT NIGHT THE KILLERS made another move
into new territory, They had rested all day by the
riverbank, letting the sun cook their faces and
dry their sores. About two hours after sunset,
they started roaring. Their joined voices broad-
cast a message of some sort—maybe, Here we
come!—into the distance. ‘Then they set out, all
four together, on what looked like a purposeful
march, Rosengren and I got the word by walkie~
talkie from Nichols, who had been keeping vigil
We jumped into Rosengren’s Land Rover and
headed out through the blackness, beginning
48 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC + AUGUST 2013A female wrangles her infant cubs. During the first
few weeks, when the
1 the competi:
tive jumble among older cubs in the pride and so
vulnerable to predators, she keeps them hidden
away in a den. But these will soon join the group.
LIONS OF THE SERENGETI 49THEROAR OF LIONS AT
CLOSE RANGE IS AN IMPOSING
SOUND: HIGH IN DECIBELS.
BUT THROATY AND ROUGH,
AS IFSCRAPED UP FROM
ABIN OF PRIMORDIAL
POWER AND THREAT.
what I recall as the Night of the Long Follow.
Converging with Nichols’s vehicle, we
climbed in and stayed with the lions—five of
us now, Nichols’ wife, Reba Peck, at the wheel,
casing along, headlights dimmed, ‘There was no
moon. Nichols had night vision goggles and an
infrared camera, His assistant and videographer,
Nathan Williamson, sat ready to capture sound
or deploy the infrared floods. We were a journal
istic gunship, bristling with armaments, rolling
slowly along behind the lions. They showed no
concern whatsoever about our presence, ‘They
had other things in mind.
We followed them up an old buffalo track,
then through a tight grove of fever trees, Peck
coaxing the car patiently around aardvark
holes, over crunching thorn branches, across a
sumpy stream bottom, Please don't get stuck, we
all thought. With four Killers nearby, nobody
wanted to climb out and push. We didn't get
stuck. The lions walked in single file, steady,
unhurried, neither waiting for us nor trying
to lose us. We kept them in view with the low
headlights and, where those didn't reach, a mon-
ocular thermal scope. Through the scope, as I sat
atop the Rover's jouncing roof, I saw four lion
bodies glowing like candles in a cave.
Suddenly another large figure swung up along-
side us, its eyes shining orange when I swept it
with my headlamp. It was a lioness, making her-
self known to the Killers. Rosengren couldn't
recognize her, in this fleeting glimpse, but pre-
sumably she was in heat. So she was taking a
50 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC + AUGUST 2013
sex-mad risk, probably larger than
she could guess, given the record of
these particular males. When they
noticed her, and wheeled toward
her, she ran off coyly, pursued by all
four, and for a moment we thought
we had lost them, But only one male
stayed on her tail; we wouldn't see
hhim again all night. ‘The other three
reassembled themselves, after this
flirty distraction, and continued
their march.
‘They crossed a dirt two-track
(the main east-west “road,” which
we used coming and going to camp) and angled
south, now brazenly entering the territory of
the Vumbi pride and its resident defenders,
C-Boy and Hildur. They paused here and there
to scent mark, rubbing their foreheads against
bushes, scratching and spraying the ground.
‘This wasn’t a sneak attack; they were advertis-
ing themselves, making a statement. Too bad,
Rosengren noted, that we don't have some sort
of fancy scope to illuminate those smells.
By now they had turned and were headed
toward Nichols’s camp, so Williamson radioed
ahead and warned the kitchen crew to stay
in their tents. But the three lions didn't care
about our little canvas compound, with its odors
of popcorn and chicken and coffee, any more
than they cared about us; about a quarter mile
short, they bedded down to rest. During this hi-
atus, just before midnight, Nichols and his team
went back to camp. Rosengren and I, having re~
trieved the other vehicle, stayed with the Killers.
He took the first sleeping shift, snoring gently in
the back of the Land Rover, while I sat up, keep-
ing watch. Half an hour later the lions stood
and began moving again; I woke Rosengren,
and we followed.
And that's how it went—a stretch of walking,
a stretch of sleeping, Rosengren and I trading
duties—for the rest of the night. Occasionally,
uring a stop, they let their voices rise in another
chorus of roars. ‘the roar of three lions heard
at close range, let me tell you, is an imposing
sound: high in decibels but throaty and rough,as though scraped up from a deep iron bin of
primordial power and confidence and threat.
No one answered these calls. In the wee hours
the trio met a lone ‘Thomson's gazelle; that poor
gazelle must have been terrified, but as the lions
made a perfunctory try, it bounded safely away.
One tommy, divided three ways, was scarcely
worth the trouble, As dawn came, they were
back on the road after their big loop through
Vumbi territory, strolling casually west toward
a familiar kopje where they would find shade
for the day. It was Saturday morning. Rosengren
and [left them there.
‘The wounds on their faces, and the absence of
C-Boy, were still unexplained. Lion politics along
the Ngare Nanyuki River seemed to be in flux.
LATE SATURDAY AFTERNOON, we found the
Vumbi pride at Zebra Kopjes, a couple of miles
south of where the Killers had made that intru-
sive circuit. Maybe the pride had been driven
down there by the minatory roaring, or maybe
they had just wandered. We counted three fe-
males, resting contentedly amid the shaded lobes
of granite, and all eight cubs. Another female, we
knew, was off on a mating foray with lover boy
Hildur. No sign of C-Boy. His absence seemed
slightly ominous.
Sunday afternoon, back to Zebra Kopjes.
Hildur and his female had rejoined the group,
but not C-Boy. Let’s try Gol Kopjes, Rosengren
suggested. With luck we'll see the Simba East
pride, and he might be with them, Yes, I saids
that’s my priority, I want to find him, dead or
alive. So we drove southwest, rising and de-
scending gently across the swales of grassland,
while Rosengren listened in his headphones for
the bleeps of Simba East, Ata small kopje near
the main Gols we located them: three females
and three large cubs, lounging amid the radiant
rocks. But again, no sign of C-Boy.
Rosengren, at this point, admitted to some
worry. His job was not to root for favorites, of
course, but to monitor events, including the
natural phenomena of lion-on-lion violence
and pride takeover; but he had his sympa-
thies, It’s beginning to seem, he said sadly, that
C-Boy must have fallen victim to the Killers.
With a lavender Serengeti sunset painting
the horizon behind us, we drove back to Zebra
Kopjes. Nichols and Peck were still there, with
the Vumbis, who had hunkered together in the
grass and begun roaring—one voice, then an-
other, then three together, rumbling out across
the plains beneath a now darkening sky and a
small waxing crescent of moon. Lion roars can
carry a range of meanings, and this chorus bore
a mysterious, lonely tone, When they fell silent,
we listened with them. No response.
Nichols and Peck departed for camp. Rosen-
gren circled our vehicle into a spot just beside
the reclining Vumbis. He wanted me to expe~
rience the fearsome thrill of taking lion roars
point-blank in the face. This time Hildur joined
in, his deep male basso rasping and thunder-
ing, almost shaking the car. Once they finished,
wwe again listened intently. And again nothing.
Now I was ready to leave. For journalistic pur-
poses, I was prepared to list C-Boy as “missing,
suspected dead.”
Wait, Rosengren said. There was a scuffle in
the darkness around us. Give me your headlamp,
he said. Swinging the beam from left to right,
across Hildur and the others, Rosengren brought
it to rest on a new figure, a large one, with avery
dark mane: C-Boy. He was back. He had come
running to the sound of their roars.
His face was smooth, His flanks and buttocks
‘were intact. Whomever the Killers had mugged
two nights ago, it wasn't him. He settled com-
fortably beside the collared female. Soon hed
be mating again. He was an eight-year-old lion,
healthy and formidable, commanding respect
within a pride.
Tt was all very temporary. C-Boy’ life might
stretch forward a few years, beyond this moment,
into infirmity, injury, mayhem, displacement,
starvation, and death. ‘The Serengeti offers no
mercy to the elderly, the untucky, or the impaired.
He wouldn't always be happy. But he looked
happy now. 0
See more lions in The Secret Life of Predators, airing
in September on the National Geographic Channel.
LIONS OF THE SERENGETI 51Cai ne BT
aug it aren
burrow. Such small meals help bridge the lean,
gn eee eT eee aerane ri F
Dae ARE cal eo
___fernales, stressed and fiercely protective of
ip a emer a kes OL
ON neA male often asserts his prerogatives,
ee ae eee ea
See eee
by his low growls. Their turn will come.Hildur, C-Boy’s partner, frequently makes
a long run to visit the Simba East pride.
A coalition that controls two prides must
maintain vigilance over both.Yusufuu Shabani Difika lost his arms in a lion attack
in Tanzania’ Selous Game Reserve. Poor villagers
farm marginal land along reserve edges, where
bushpigs raid crops and lions may attack people.
Here his uncle bathes Difika, a father of two.In South Africa thousands of
areas. Many people, includinHunters of captive lions are more certain of success than hunters of more widely ranging wild lions. This
lioness was killed by bow hunter Steve Sibrel (at left) on a ranch in North-West Province, South Africa,Legally hunted lions in South Africa yield skeletons that are exported for traditional medicines, mostly
to Asia, With tigers reduced to a few thousand in the wild, lion bon
ions are complicated creatures,
agnificent at a distance yet
fearsomely inconvenient to
the rural peoples whose fate is
to live among them. They are
lords of the wild savanna but
imical to pastoralism and
\compatible with farming, So
it's no wonder their fortunes
have trended downward for as
long as human civilization has been trending up.
There’s evidence across at least three conti-
68 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC + AUGUST 2013
re gaining popularity:
nents of the lions’ glory days and their decline.
Chauvet Cave, in southern France, filled with
vivid Paleolithic paintings of wildlife, shows us
that lions inhabited Europe along with humans
30 millennia ago; the Book of Daniel suggests
that lions lurked at the outskirts of Babylon in
the sixth century n.c.; and there are reports
of lions surviving in Syria, Turkey, Iraq, and
Iran until well into the 19th or 20th centuries.
alone, during this long ebb, remained the
iable heartland.
But that has changed too. New surveys andestimates suggest that the lion has disappeared
from about 80 percent of its African range. No
one knows how many lions survive today in
Africa—as many as 35,000?—because wild lions
are difficult to count. Experts agree, though, that
just within recent decades the overall total has
declined significantly. The causes are multiple—
including habitat loss and fragmentation, poach-
ing of lion prey for bush meat, poachers’ snares
that catch lions instead, displacement of lion prey
by livestock, disease, spearing or poisoning of
lions in retaliation for livestock losses and attacks,
By David Quammen
Photographs by Brent Stirton
upon humans, ritual killing of lions (notably with-
in the Maasai tradition), and unsustainable trophy
hunting for lions, chiefly by affluent Americans.
‘The new assessments, compiled by scientists
from Panthera (an international felid conser-
vation group), Duke University, the National
Geographic Society's Big Cats Initiative, and
elsewhere, indicate that African lions now live in
nearly 70 distinct areas (map, pages 70-71), the
largest and most secure of which can be con
ered strongholds, But the smallest contain only
tiny populations, isolated, genetically limited,
and lacking viability for the long term. In other
words, the African lion inhabits an archipelago
of insular refuges, and more than a few of those
marooned populations may soon go extinct.
WHAT CAN BE DONE to stanch the losses and
reverse the trend? Some experts say we should
focus efforts on the strongholds, such as the
Serengeti ecosystem (spanning Tanzania to
Kenya), the Selous ecosystem (southeastern
Tanzania), the Ruaha-Rungwa (western Tan-
zania), the Okavango-Hwange (Botswana into
Zimbabwe), and the Greater Limpopo (at the
shared corners of Mozambique, Zimbabwe,
and South Africa, including Kruger National
Park). hose five ecosystems alone account for
roughly half of Africa’ lions, and each contains,
a genetically viable population. Craig Packer
has offered a drastic suggestion for further
protecting some strongholds: Fence them,
or at least some of their margins. Investing
conservation dollars in chain-link and posts,
combined with adequate levels of patrolling
and repair, he argues, is the best way to limit
illegal entry into protected areas by herders,
their livestock, and poachers, as well as reckless
exit from those areas by lions.
Other experts strongly disagree. In fact,
this fencing idea goes against three decades of
Contributing writer David Quammen received the
2012 Stephen Jay Gould Prize from the Society for
the Study of Evolution, Documentary photographer
Brent Stirton’s October 2012 elephant-ivory story
won the POY Environmental Vision Award,
LIVING WITH LIONS 69ALGERIA
WESTERN
SAHARA
MAURITANIA
LIE OPAC EOH
caneia
ions. ~
SERRA LEONE
Africa's lions—formerly widespread
across the continent, although the ee
numbers in earlier eras are unknow-
able—have declined severely in both
distribution and abundance. Lions live
in 67 distinct areas—only 10 of them ie ec toascene a
large and secure enough to be called these ares, but uma
strongholds. Most areas face an uncer- paris eae ect
tain future, with unstable political
situations, no protected status, or too .
few lions. The map shows a mosaic of ee eae
‘opportunities, fading hopes, and lion Fragmented populations 4,500.
habitat emptied of lions—all sur- aaa eae
rounded by people and their impact of extinction 250,
on the landscape. Lion conservation-
ists differ as to how best to proceed.
wy
HISTORIC LION RANGE ‘TODAY'S STRONGHOLDS»
(1750) BH Lions here have the "
1 Mons have vanished best chance of, ¥
‘om more than 80 long-term survival
pprcant of th
histori range Ij Human population
densiyis above 65
persons per sqmva rover
; ©
‘ SOMALIA
uns
AFRICA
sow wr uonsn
LUons are hard to count
‘The Big Cats initative survey
‘some 86,000. restricted toa
‘shrinking numberof key areas.
‘Strongholds are in bold
56% (1270050)
A Selous
B Rusha-Rungwa
Serengeti-Mara
D Greater Limpopo
E Okavango-Hwange
26% (2.020 one
F Niassa
G East Central African Republic
H Teavo-Mkomazi
1 Kgalagadi
J Mid:Zambext
K Masai Steppe
L Luangwa Valley
M Bome-Gambela
NN Etosha-Kunene
© Southeast Chad
P Katue
2 WeArtyPencart
R.Latkipia-Samburu
18 0% lecextncen
(6 200 lons in 49 areas)
Nama,HEN HUMANS ARE
unted
For rural Tanzanians the threat of lion attack rises.
and falls with the phases of the moon (below). the
nocturnal predators favoring the darkest nights.
But whether the night is dark or bright, villagers
living without electricity or plumbing have to walk to
the outhouse or to get water and firewood. People
have even been attacked inside their homes.
|
‘Attacks when the moon is above
the horizon are usually on cloudy
nights in the rainy season—just
before harvesttime, when people
sleep in the fields to guard crops
against bushpigs.
.
aries
Human
co
eo
ior
rerio
Moon-25|
above
421225.
Killed 282 ® Injured 139
conservation theory, which stresses the impor-
tance of connectedness among habitat patches.
Packer knows that, and even he wouldn't put
a fence across any valuable route of wildlife
dispersal or migration, But consider, for instance,
the western boundary of the Serengeti ecosys-
tem, where the Maswa Game Reserve meets the
Sukuma agricultural lands beyond. If you fly over
that area at low elevation, you'll see the boundary
as a stark edge, delineated by the slash ofa red
clay road. East of it lies the rolling green terrai
of Maswa, covered with acacia woodlands and
72 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC + AUGUST 2013
horton =a
atic
Lions have attacked more than a thou
sand Tanzanian since 1988, when the
‘dovernment fist kopt records. A recent
‘study focused on attacks in 12cstricts
Moon
be
horizon
lush savanna, a virtual extension of Serengeti
National Park. West of the road, in the Sukuma
zone, you'll look down on mile after mile of
cotton fields, cornfields, teams of oxen plowing
bare dirt, paddies, and brown-and-white cows
standing in pens. A fence along that boundary,
as Packer asserts, could do no harm and possi
bly some good. It may be a special case, but it’s
enough to open a heated discussion.
‘Trophy hunting is also controversial. Does
it contribute to population declines because
of irresponsible overharvesting? Or does it‘Attacks peak on nights after a full
moon when the moon doesn't rise
Until an hour or more after sunset.
There are fewer attacks just before
‘a full moon when the moon is
already up before sunset.
be
effectively monetize the lion, bringing cash into
local and national economies and providing
an incentive for habitat protection and sus-
tainable long-term management? ‘The answer
depends—on particulars of place, on which
lions are targeted (old males or young ones),
and on the integrity of management, both by
the hunting operator and by the national wild-
life agency. Certainly there are abuses—coun-
tries in which hunting concessions are granted
corruptly, situations in which little or no hunting
income reaches the local people who pay the
UsANDA Location of attacks
plotted in graphic
> KEN,
euRUNDI >
@-25 attacis
: INDIAN
ree . OCEAN
conco TANZANIA
0 MALAWI MOZAMBIQUE
Lion attacks are most numerous in areas
where farming attracts ushpigs but other on
prey is scarce In southern Tanzania religious
strictures keep the largely Musi population
from eating or even kiling the wid! pigs.
"
Midnight
praAr
oer ead
Near the Equator,
Tanzania has close to
‘2hours of day and
120f night year-round,
real costs of living amid lions, concessions on
which too many lions are killed. But in places
such as Maswa Game Reserve—where hunts are
scrupulously managed in cooperation with the
Friedkin Conservation Fund, an organization
that cares more about habitat protection than
about revenue—the effect of a ban on hunting
would be pervers
Hunting of captive-bred lions released into
fenced areas on private ranches, as now widely
practiced in South Africa, raises a whole differ-
ent set of questions. In a recent year 174 such
LIVING WITH LIONS 73Sukuma in western Tanzania traditionally killed lions in defense of their cattle or village, dancing
to claim tributes as thanks, Some Sukuma now kill innocent lions to claim the rewards.
lion-breeding ranches operated in the country,
with a combined stock of more than 3,500 lions,
Proponents argue that this industry may
contribute to lion conservation by diverting
trophy-hunt pressure from wild populations
and by maintaining genetic diversity that could
be needed later. Others fear it may undercut the
economics of lion management in, say, Tanz:
nia, by offering cheaper and easier ways to put
lion head on your rec-room wall
And then there's the matter of what happens
to the rest of the lion, The export of lion bones
74 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC + AUGUST 2013
from South Africa to Asia, where they are sold
as an alternative to tiger bones, constitutes a
dangerous trend that surely increases demand.
Bottom line: Lion conservation is an intricate
enterprise that must now reach across borders,
across oceans, and across disciplines to confront
a global market in dreams of the wild.
BUT CONSERVATION BEGINS at home, among
people for whom the sublime and terrifying
wildness of a lion is no dream. One set of
such people are the Maasai who inhabit groupranches bordering Amboseli National Park,
on the thornbush plains of southern Ken-
ya. Since 2007 a program there called Lion
Guardians has recruited Maasai warriors—
young men for whom lion killing has tradi-
tionally been part of a rite of passage known as
olamayio—to serve instead as lion protectors.
‘These men, paid salaries, trained in radiote-
lemetry and GPS use, track lions on a daily
basis and prevent lion attacks on livestock.
The program, small but astute, seems to be
succeeding: Lion killings have decreased, and
the role of Lion Guardian is now prestigious
within those communities
I spent a day recently with a Lion Guardian
named Kamunu, roughly 30 years old, serious
and steady, whose dark face tapered to a nar-
row chin and whose eyes seemed permanently
squinted against sentiment and delusion. He
wore a beaded necklace, beaded earrings, and a
red shuka wrapped around him; a Maasai dagger
was sheathed on his belt at one side, a cell phone
at the other. Kamunu had personally killed five
lions, he told me, all for olamayio, but he didn't
intend to kill any more, He had learned that
lions could be more valuable alive—in money
from tourism, wages from Lion Guardians, and
the food and education such cash could buy for
aman’ family,
We walked a long circuit that very hot day,
winding through acacia bush, crossing a dry riv-
erbed, Kamunu following lion spoor in the dust
and me following him, Probably we traipsed
about 16 miles. In the morning we tracked a
lone adult, recognizable to Kamunu from its big
pug asa certain problematic male. When we met
a long line of cows headed for water, their bells
clanking, attended by several Maasai boys, Ka~
munu warned the boys to stay clear of that lion.
‘Around midday he picked up a different trail,
very fresh, left by a female with two cubs, We
saw her flattened day bed in the herbage be-
neath a bush, We traced her sinuous route into
a grove of scrubby myrrh trees that grew thicker
as we went. Kamunu moved quietly. Finally we
stopped. I saw nothing but vegetation and dirt.
They're very close, he explained, This is a
good spot. No livestock nearby. We don't want to
push any closer, We don't want to disturb them.
No, we don't, agreed.
“We think they are safe here,” he told me.
It's more than can be said for many African
lions, but at that moment, in that place, it
was enough, 0
| National Geographic's Big Cats Initiative is
dedicated to halting the decline of lions and other
big cats around the world. To learn more about the
projects we support, visit causeanuproar.org.
LIVING WITH LIONS 75An innovati
1e program in sout
lion killers, to monitor lion movements and prevent conflicts with herders and cattle Its working.
mn Kenya recruits Lion Guardians among the Maasai, some formerBY RICH COHEN PHOTOGRAPHS BY ROBERT CLARK
BOTTOM OF THE DRINK
hey had to go. The Coke machine, the
snack machine, the deep fryer. Hoisted
and dragged through the halls and out
to the curb, they sat with other trash
beneath gray, forlorn skies behind Kirk-
patrick Elementary, one of a handful of primary
schools in Clarksdale, Mississippi. ‘That was sev-
en years ago, when administrators first recog-
nized the magnitude of the problem. Clarksdale,
a storied delta town that gave us the golden age
of the Delta blues, its cotton fields and flatlands
rolling to the river, its Victorian mansions still
beautiful, is at the center of a colossal Ameri-
can health crisis, High rates of obesity, diabetes,
high blood pressure, heart disease: the legacy,
some experts say, of sugar, a crop that brought
the ancestors of most Clarksdale residents to
this hemisphere in chains. “We knew we had to
do something.” Kirkpatrick principal SuzAnne
Walton told me,
‘Walton, Clarksdale born and bred, was leading
me through the school, discussing ways the fac-
ulty is trying to help students—baked instead of,
fried, fruit instead of candy—most of whom have
two meals a day in the lunchroom. She was wear-
ing scrubs—standard Monday dress for teachers,
to reinforce the school’s commitment to health
and wellness. The student body is 91 percent Af-
rican American, 7 percent white, “and three La-
tinos’—the remaining 2 percent. “These kids eat
what they're given, and too often its the sweetest,
cheapest foods: cakes, creams, candy. It had to
change. It was about the students?’ she explained.
Take, for example, Nicholas Scurlock, who had
recently begun his first year at Oakhurst Middle
School. Nick, just tall enough to ride the coaster
at the bigger amusement parks, had been 135
82 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC + AUGUST 2013
pounds going into fifth grade. “He was terrified
of gym? Principal Walton told me. “There was
trouble running, trouble breathing—the kid had
itall?
“Of course, I'm not one to judge.” Walton
added, laughing, slapping her thighs. “I'm a big
woman myself?
I met Nick in the lunchroom, where he sat
beside his mother, Warkeyie Jones, a striking
38-year-old. Jones told me she had changed her
‘own eating habits to help herself and to serve as
an example for Nick. “I used to snack on sweets
all day, cause I sit at a desk, and what else are you
going to do? But I've switched to celery. she told
me. “People say, ‘You're doing it cause you've got,
a boyfriend? And I say, ‘No, I'm doing it ‘cause I
want to live and be healthy.”
‘Take a cup of water, add sugar to the brim,
let it sit for five hours. When you return, you'll
see that the crystals have settled on the bottom
of the glass. Clarksdale, a big town in one of the
fattest counties, in the fattest state, in the fattest
industrialized nation in the world, is the bottom,
of the American drink, where the sugar settles
in the bodies of kids like Nick Scurlock—the
legacy of sweets in the shape of a boy.
MOSQUES OF MARZIPAN
n the beginning, on the island of New Guin-
ea, where sugarcane was domesticated some
10,000 years ago, people picked cane and ate
it raw, chewing a stem until the taste hit their
tongue like a starburst. A kind of elixir, a cure
for every ailment, an answer for every mood,
sugar featured prominently in ancient New
Guinean myths. In one the first man makes lovecotton candy
As an example of just desserts, one might point out that a
Cones enn gener cute Ua on aS
fairground staple, then known as fairy floss, is nothing more than
Cee ae ete eta met eects Us
CR aR RL Reece Sea
EO ee Re ee neu eee ee:
Ketchup, thn, 1.77top Oreo cookes, 3 Cocoa GF owt it yout 8 6.16 6p
22.
teaspoons a day
Beef and pork bologna,
4 sices, 1.18 tsp sugar
Sugars added to pro:
ceased foods en
flavor and texture. Th
as apreserva-
extend shal ite
29
‘TYPES OF ADDED SUGAR CONSUMED, US. daily average
“Oeeeoeeeoeooed
‘sucROsE
(11.8 tsp, 5199) eS
Granulated cane or beet ( \
sugaris sired inte coffee COnssts oF 50%) 50
and tea and used in baking, Fructose Glucose
84 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC + AUGUST 2013
This is how much sugar the average
American eats each day. Even with-
out dipping into a sugar bow, it's
ot hard to hit that total because
of the sugars in processed foods
(examples below). Though sugar
consumption has dropped since
1999, we're still wildly exceeding
the recommended limit (right).
Wheat bread,
2eslices, 0:68 tsp | A) Lucky Charms,1 cup. 2.55 tap
“The problem with fructose Found in small amounts in
fruits and vegetables~and in each type of sugar shown
here—fructose in excess fs a health hazard. The glucose in
sugar is metabotzed throughout the body. But fructose is
processed mainly inthe Iver ito fat, which can bull up
there and also entar the blood. Tha resulting risks: obesty,
hypertension, insuln resistance, and type 2 diabetes.1999 peak
422 calories
2011
1363 calories
(2277169, below)
200-1970
{333 CALORIES FROM ADDED SUGARS,
US. dai average
200: American Heart Association
00. Women,
cor ola. 0x. 799 9
DIAGNOSED DIABETES:
‘Almost all the cases
in this epidemic spike
are lype 2 clabetes,
once called adult-onset
abetas,
1973
2010
7%,
214 millon
‘Americans
299 of the population, 42 millon Americans
227 tsp equal the natural sugar contained in each of the following
Tred apples 454998 . 1,135 cupsof rice 27 earsof corn
@eeeeeeed:
HIGH-FRUCTOSE CORN SYRUP
(6.2 tsp, 36%)
Made cheap by government
cm subsidies, i was fst added
to processed foodin the 1970s, Fructose.” Glucose
(55 45)
‘OTHER SWEETENERS
(8tsp,* 13%)
Honey, maple syrup, and
molasses have sight traces
‘of vitamins and minerals
unit not a
BT ipduetorsunang
SeisIT WAS LIKE THROWING PAINT AT A FAN: first here, then
to a stalk of cane, yielding the human race. At
religious ceremonies priests sipped sugar water
from coconut shells, a beverage since replaced
in sacred ceremonies with cans of Coke.
Sugar spread slowly from island to island, final-
ly reaching the Asian mainland around 1000 B.c.
By a.p. 500 it was being processed into a powder
in India and used as a medicine for headaches,
stomach flutters, impotence. For years sugar
refinement remained a secret science, passed
master to apprentice. By 600 the art had spread
to Persia, where rulers entertained guests with a
plethora of sweets. When Arab armies conquered.
the region, they carried away the knowledge and,
love of sugar. It was like throwing paint ata fan:
first here, then there, sugar turning up wherever
Allah was worshipped. “Wherever they went, the
Arabs brought with them sugar, the product and
the technology of its production, writes Sidney
Mintz in Sweetness and Power. “Sugar, we are
told, followed the Koran.”
Muslim caliphs made a great show of sugar.
Marzipan was the rage, ground almonds and
sugar sculpted into outlandish concoctions that
demonstrated the wealth of the state. A 15th-
century writer described an entire marzipan
mosque commissioned by a caliph. Marveled,
at, prayed in, devoured by the poor. ‘Ihe Arabs
perfected sugar refinement and turned it into
an industry. The work was brutally difficult. The
heat of the fields, the flash of the scythes, the
smoke of the boiling rooms, the crush of the
miills, By 1500, with the demand for sugar surg-
ing, the work was considered suitable only for the
lowest of laborers. Many of the field hands were
prisoners of war, eastern Europeans captured
when Muslim and Christian armies clashed.
Perhaps the first Europeans to fall in love
with sugar were British and French crusaders
who went east to wrest the Holy Land from the
infidel. They came home full of visions and sto-
ries and memories of sugar. As cane is not at its
most productive in temperate climes—it needs
tropical, rain-drenched fields to flourish—the
first European market was built on a trickle of
Muslim trade, and the sugar that reached the
‘West was consumed only by the nobility, so rare
86 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC + AUGUST 2013
it was classified as a spice. But with the spread of
the Ottoman Empire in the 1400s, trade with the
East became more difficult. To the Western elite
who had fallen under sugars spell there were few
options: deal with the small southern European
sugar manufacturers, defeat the ‘Turk, or develop
new sources of sugar.
In school they call it the age of exploration,
the search for territories and islands that would
send Europeans all around the world. In reality
it was, to no small degree, a hunt for fields where
sugarcane would prosper. In 1425 the Portuguese
prince known as Henry the Navigator sent sug-
arcane to Madeira with an early group of colo-
nists, The crop soon made its way to other newly
discovered Atlantic istands—the Cape Verde Is-
lands, the Canaries. In 1493, when Columbus
set off on his second voyage to the New World,
he too carried cane. ‘Thus dawned the age of big
sugar, of Caribbean islands and slave plantations,
leading, in time, to great smoky refineries on the
outskirts of glass cities, to mass consumption, fat
kids, obese parents, and men in XXL tracksuits
trundling along in electric carts.
SLAVES TO SUGAR
olumbus planted the New World’s first
sugarcane in Hispaniola, the site, not
coincidentally, of the great slave revolt a
few hundred years later. Within decades
mills marked the heights in Jamaica and
‘Cuba, where rain forest had been cleared and the
native population eliminated by disease or war,
or enslaved. The Portuguese created the most ef-
fective model, making Brazil into an early boom,
colony, with more than 100,000 slaves churning
‘out tons of sugar.
As more cane was planted, the price of the
product fell. As the price fell, demand increased.
Economists call ita virtuous cycle—not a phrase
you would use if you happened to be on the
wrong side of the equation. In the mid-17th cen-
tury sugar began to change from a luxury spice,
classed with nutmeg and cardamom, toa staple,
first for the middle class, then for the poor.
By the 18th century the marriage of sugarthere, sugar turning up wherever Allah was worshipped.
and slavery was complete. Every few years a
new island—Puerto Rico, Trinidad—was colo-
nized, cleared, and planted. When the natives
died, the planters replaced them with African
slaves, After the crop was harvested and milled,
it was piled in the holds of ships and carried to
London, Amsterdam, Paris, where it was traded
for finished goods, which were brought to the
west coast of Africa and traded for more slaves.
‘The bloody side of this “triangular trade)” during
which millions of Africans died, was known as
the Middle Passage. Until the slave trade was
banned in Britain in 1807, more than 11 million
Africans were shipped to the New World—more
than half ending up on sugar plantations. Ac-
cording to Trinidadian politician and historian
Eric Williams, “Slavery was not born of racism;
rather, racism was the consequence of slavery.”
Africans, in other words, were not enslaved be-
cause they were seen as inferior; they were seen
as inferior to justify the enslavement required
for the prosperity of the early sugar trade,
‘The original British sugar island was Barba
dos. Deserted when a British captain found it
on May 14, 1625, the island was soon filled with
grinding mills, plantation houses, and shanties.
‘Tobacco and cotton were grown in the early
years, but cane quickly overtook the island, as
it did wherever it was planted in the Caribbean.
Within a century the fields were depleted, the
water table sapped. By then the most ambitious
planters had left Barbados in search of the next
island to exploit. By 1720 Jamaica had captured
the sugar crown.
For an African, life on these islands was hell.
‘Throughout the Caribbean millions died in
the fields and pressing houses or while trying
to escape. Gradually the sin of the trade began
to be felt in Europe. Reformers preached aboli-
tion; housewives boycotted slave-grown cane.
In Sugar: A Bittersweet History Elizabeth Abbott
quotes Quaker leader William Fox, who told a
crowd that for every pound of sugar, “we may
be considered as consuming two ounces of hu-
man flesh” A slave in Voltaire’s Candide, missing
both a hand and a leg, explains his mutilation:
“When we work in the sugar mills and we catch
our finger in the millstone, they cut off our hand;
when we try to run away, they cut off aleg; both
things have happened to me, It is at this price
that you eat sugar in Europe”
‘And yet there was no stopping the boom, Sugar
‘was the oil of its day. The more you tasted, the
more you wanted, In 1700 the average English-
man consumed 4 pounds a year. In 1800 the com-
mon man ate 18 pounds of sugar. In 1870 that
same sweet-toothed bloke was eating 47 pounds
annually, Was he satisfied? Of course not! By 1900
he was up to 100 pounds a year. In that span of 30
years, world production of cane and beet sugar
exploded from 2.8 million tons a year to 13 mil-
lion plus. Today the average American consumes
77 pounds of added sugar annually, or more than,
22 teaspoons of added sugar a day.
If you go to Barbados today, you can see the
legacies of sugar: the ruined mills, their wooden
blades turning in the wind, marking time; the
faded mansions; the roads that rise and fall but
never lose sight of the sea; the hotels where the
tourists are filled with jam and rum; and those
few factories where the cane is still heaved into
the presses, and the raw sugar, sticky sweet, is
sent down the chutes. Standing in a refinery, as
men in hard hats rushed around me, I read a
handwritten sign: a prayer beseeching the Lord
to grant them the wisdom, protection, and
strength to bring in the crop.
THE CULPRIT
t seems like every time I study an illness and
trace a path to the first cause, I find my way
back to sugar”
Richard Johnson, a nephrologist at the
University of Colorado Denver, was talking
to me in his office in Aurora, Colorado, the
Rockies crowding the horizon. He's a big man
with eyes that sparkle when he talks. “Why is it
that one-third of adults [worldwide] have high
blood pressure, when in 1900 only 5 percent
had high blood pressure?” he asked. “Why did
153 million people have diabetes in 1980, and
now we're up to 347 million? Why are more
and more Americans (Continued on page 96)
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en ea“WE HAVE A BIG PROBLEM. Our world is flooded with
obese? Sugar, we believe, is one of the culprits,
ifnot the major culprit”
As far back as 1675, when western Europe was
experiencing its first sugar boom, ‘Thomas Wil-
lis, a physician and founding member of Britain's
Royal Society, noted that the urine of people af-
flicted with diabetes tasted “wonderfully sweet,
as if it were imbued with honey or sugar.” Two
hundred and fifty years later Haven Emerson at
Columbia University pointed out that a remark-
able increase in deaths from diabetes between
1900 and 1920 corresponded with an increase in
sugar consumption. And in the 1960s the British
nutrition expert John Yudkin conducted a series
of experiments on animals and people showing
that high amounts of sugar in the diet led to high
levels of fat and insulin in the blood—risk fac-
tors for heart disease and diabetes. But Yudkin’s
message was drowned out by a chorus of other
scientists blaming the rising rates of obesity and
heart disease instead on cholesterol caused by
too much saturated fat in the diet.
Asa result, fat makes up a smaller portion of
the American dict than it did 20 years ago. Yet
the portion of America that is obese has only
grown larger. The primary reason, says John-
son, along with other experts, is sugar, and in
particular fructose. Sucrose, or table sugar, is
composed of equal amounts of glucose and
fructose, the latter being the kind of sugar you
find naturally in fruit. Its also what gives table
sugar its yammy sweetness. (High-fructose
corn syrup, or HFCS, is also a mix of fructose
and glucose—about 55 percent and 45 percent
in soft drinks. The impact on health of sucrose
and HECS appears to be similar.) Johnson ex-
plained to me that although glucose is metabo-
lized by cells all through your body, fructose is
processed primarily in the liver. If you eat too
much in quickly digested forms like soft drinks
and candy, your liver breaks down the fructose
and produces fats called triglycerides.
Some of these fats stay in the liver, which over
Rich Cohen’ ninth book, on the 1985 Chicago
Bears, will appear in October. Robert Clark’ story
(on the Denisovans was published last month,
96 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC + AUGUST 2013
long exposure can turn fatty and dysfunctional.
Buta lot of the triglycerides are pushed out into
the blood too. Over time, blood pressure goes
up, and tissues become progressively more re-
sistant to insulin. The pancreas responds by
pouring out more insulin, trying to keep things
in check. Eventually a condition known as
metabolic syndrome kicks in, characterized by
obesity, especially around the waist; high blood.
pressure; and other metabolic changes that, if
not checked, can lead to type 2 diabetes, with
a heightened danger of heart attack thrown in
for good measure. As much as a third of the
American adult population could meet the cri-
teria for metabolic syndrome set by the National
Institutes of Health
Recently the American Heart Association
added its voice to the warnings against too much
added sugar in the diet. But its rationale is that
sugar provides calories with no nutritional ben-
efit. According to Johnson and his colleagues,
this misses the point. Excessive sugar isnt just,
empty calories; it’s toxic.
“It has nothing to do with its calories? says
endocrinologist Robert Lustig of the University
of California, San Francisco. “Sugar is a poison
by itself when consumed at high doses.”
Johnson summed up the conventional wis-
dom this way: Americans are fat because they
cat too much and exercise too litte. But they eat
too much and exercise too little because they're
addicted to sugar, which not only makes them fat-
ter but, after the initial sugar rush, also saps their
energy, beaching them on the couch. “The rea-
son you're watching TV is not because TV is so
-g00d” he said, “but because you have no energy
to exercise, because you're eating too much sugar.”
The solution? Stop eating so much sugar.
When people cut back, many of the ill effects
disappear. The trouble is, in today’s world its
extremely difficult to avoid sugar, which is one
reason for the spike in consumption. Manufac-
turers use sugar to replace taste in foods bled
of fat so that they seem more healthful, such as
fat-free baked goods, which often contain large
quantities of added sugar.
It’s a worst-case scenario: You sicken untofructose, but our bodies evolved to get by on very little.”
death not by eating foods you love, but by eat-
ing foods you hate—because you don't want to
sicken unto death.
IN THE BEGINNING WAS THE FRUIT
f sugar is so bad for us, why do we crave it?
‘The short answer is that an injection of sugar
into the bloodstream stimulates the same plea
sure centers of the brain that respond to heroin
and cocaine. All tasty foods do this to some
extent—that’s why they're tasty!—but sugar has
a sharply pronounced effect. In this sense it is
literally an addictive drug.
‘This raises the question, however, of why our
brains would evolve to respond pleasurably to a
potentially toxic compound. ‘The answer, John-
son told me, lies deep in our simian past, when
a craving for fructose would be just the thing
our ancestors needed to survive.
I paraphrase Johnson in a voice borrowed
from the fables, for what are even the best
theories, if not the old stories told again in the
language of science? Some 22 million years ago,
so far back it might as well be the beginning,
apes filled the canopy of the African rain forest.
‘They survived on the fruit of the trees, sweet
with natural sugar, which they ate year-round—
a summer without end.
One day, perhaps five million years later, a
cold wind blew through this Eden. The seas
receded, the ice caps expanded. A spit of land
emerged from the tides, a bridge that a few ad-
venturous apes followed out of Africa. Nomads,
wanderers, they settled in the rain forests that
blanketed Eurasia. But the cooling continued,
replacing tropical groves of fruit with decidu-
ous forests, where the leaves flame in autumn,
then die. A time of famine followed. ‘The woods
filled with starving apes. “At some point a mu-
tation occurred in one of those apes,” Johnson
explained. It made that ape a wildly efficient
processor of fructose. Even small amounts
were stored as fat, a huge survival advantage in
months when winter lay upon the land and food
was scarce.
‘Then one day that ape, with its mutant gene
Richard Johnson
and healthy craving for rare, precious fruit sugar,
returned to its home in Africa and begot the
apes we see today, including the one that has
spread its sugar-loving progeny across the globe.
“The mutation was such a powerful survival
factor that only animals that had it survived.”
Johnson said, “so today all apes have that mu-
tation, including humans, It got our ancestors
through the lean years. But when sugar hit the
West in a big way, we had a big problem. Our
world is flooded with fructose, but our bodies
have evolved to get by on very, very litle of it”
Ita great irony: The very thing that saved us
could kill us in the end.
THE HEALTHY CHEF
hough just 11, Nick Scurlock is a perfect
stand-in for the average American in the
age of sugar. Hyperefficient at turning
to fat the fructose the adman and candy
clerk pump into his liver at a low, low
price. One hundred thirty-five pounds in fifth
grade, in love with the sweet poison endangering
his life. Sitting in the lunchroom, he smiled and
asked, “Why are the good things so bad for you?”
But this story is less about temptation than
about power. At its best, the school can help
kids make better decisions. A few years ago
Pop- Tarts and pizza were served at Kirkpatrick.
Now, across the district, menus have improved,
‘The school has a garden that grows food for the
community, a walking track for students and the
public, and a new playground.
Ina sense the struggle in Clarksdale is just
another front in the continuing battle between
the sugar barons and the cane cutters, “Its a trag-
edy that hits the poor much harder than it does
the rich’ Johnson told me. “If you're wealthy
and want to have fun, you go on vacation, travel
to Hawaii, treat yourself to things. But if you're
poor and want to celebrate, you go down to the
corner and buy an ice-cream cake”
When I asked Nick what he wanted to be
when he grew up, he said, “A chef” Then he
thought a moment, looked at his mom, and
corrected himself, “A healthy chef? he said, 0
SUGAR 97LS »:
MAYA OTHERWORLD
Ancient Maya believed that the rain god Chak Be i Ea
agama CN ted i
in Mexico’s parched Yucatan still appeal to Chaak for the gift
of rain. Meanwhile cenotes are giving archaeologists ne
SCL er eo eee RU eB
|ADWVER EXPLORES A CENOTE NEAR THE MAVA RUINS OF TULUM
a)
ef
-
yiere CR Uke ue RC eae MLR e)
ties to the past draw visitors to the Yueatén from the “a er es > yi |
Pr | ps
Sie
ence eer id P| Gi aM Pet PN L "
Cree eee ety eee ee Es
——BY ALMA GUILLERMOPRIETO
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PAUL NICKLEN AND SHAUL SCHWARZ
.
as
4 oo
A pyramid 90 feet tall and a platform adorned with a feathered serpent's head
testify to the former glory of Chichén Itz4, now a popular tourist destination,
This once powerful city was built in about the ninth century, likely aligned with
four sacred cenotes and with the sun's seasonal movements.On the edge ofa small
cornfield near the ruined
Maya city of Chichén Itza,
in the sparse shade of
a tropical tree, a voice ricochets wildly up the mouth of a well.
“;Lo vil jLo vi!” the shout proclaims. “I saw it, I saw it!” “)Si, es
verdad! Yes, it’s true!”
Leaning over the mouth of the well, underwater archaeolo-
gist Guillermo de Anda needs to make sure that this is what he
has been longing to hear for so many months. “What is true,
Arturo?” And his fellow archaeologist Arturo Montero, floating
down at the bottom of the well, yells up again, “The zenith light!
It really works! Get down here!” ‘Then he whoops ecstatically.
What de Anda has been waiting anxiously for his friend
Montero to determine is whether the water at the bottom of
this nondescript natural well, or cenote, had acted as a sacred
sundial and timekeeper for the ancient Maya on the two day
of the year, May 23 and July 19, when the sun reaches its zenith.
At that moment it is vertically overhead, and no shadow is cast.
‘The fact that the cenote is directly northwest of the main stair-
case of El Castillo, the famous central pyramid of Chichén Itz,
and within that mysterious city’s urban limits, made de Anda
question particularly intriguing,
Centuries earlier, had Maya priests waited in this very well to
observe and correct their measurements of the sun's angle when
it reached the zenith, as it does only in the tropics? Did they
come here during times of drought to deliver anxious offerings
and at other times to give thanks for a plentiful harvest? Did
they believe this was a place where the sun and the generous
waters met and brought forth life? These and other questions
involving the Maya people’ relation to their gods, their sacred
city, and their extraordinarily accurate calendar were what the
two archaeologists were investigating.
De Anda, renowned for his skills as an underwater archaeolo-
gist, had been able to work in the Holtin cenote only occasionally
and with minimal financing. Montero, from the University of,
Tepeyac, was at the well on his own money. He had been in the
nearby city of Mérida on May 23, leading an archaeoastronomy
seminar at the University of Yucatan, where de Anda was teach-
ing. This morning, the day after the zenith, they were at last
heading for the Holtin cenote. Their start had been disastrous—
a flat tire, a shortage of gasoline, and sundry other hindrances
had landed them at the well just as the sun was about to reach
its near-zenith position. With minutes to go, Montero and Dante
Garcia Sedano, an undergraduate student, had struggled into
their diving suits, clipped themselves into harnesses, and been
lowered into the well by a crew of local Maya farmers,
MAYA SACRED CENOTES 105Now Montero was yelling and whooping, and
the farmers were lowering first a rubber raft and
then me into the well. De Anda, drenched in
sweat in the grilling Yucatan heat, was having a
hard time with his rubbery suit. But finally he
too was lowered 72 feet into the well, making
the four of us in al likelihood the first persons
in centuries to watch the path the sun god was
tracing across these waters.
Beneath the narrow mouth of the cenote,
the walls opened up to become a giant dome,
cathedral-like except for the roots of trees
grasping through the rock for the water. Fo-
cused by the small opening—shaped into a
rectangle likely to mirror the four-cornered
Maya cosmos—the shaft of sunlight danced
like fire on the delicate frillery of surrounding
stalactites. The edge of the water too seemed to
ignite when it was hit by the light, and beneath
the normally dark surface the waters turned
transparent turquoise blue. The sun's rays came
so close to vertical that Montero now knew that,
yesterday, at the zenith moment, a pillar of light
KEY TO SURVIVAL unten
sinkholes, or cenotes,
are the only permanent
‘sources of fresh water.
More than 3,500 hold
rainwater that has been
collecting for eons.
lbistoricat
Maya ares
MEXICO
would have plunged straight into the water. One
didn’t have to be Maya to feel awe.
uring the past couple of decades archae-
D ologists have begun paying close atten-
tion to the role of caves, the zenith sun,
and now—through de Anda—cenotes, in the be-
liefs and world vision of the ancient Maya of Yu-
catn. Archaeologists had known that the Maya
regarded both caves and cenotes as mouths that
‘opened into an otherworld inhabited by Chak,
the god of life-giving rain, but the consequences
of this fact for architecture and city planning
have only recently started to become clear.
In 2010 de Anda, who by then had dived in
scores of cenotes, began exploring Holtin at
the invitation of Rafael Cobos, a recognized ar-
chaeologist and project director who has been
busy investigating and mapping the hundreds
of ancient structures, promontories, and wells
in the Chichén Itza region. De Anda also had
the cooperation of the National Institute of An-
thropology and History. Examining the walls
‘of the pool a few yards below the surface, he
emerged from a small hollow and felt a protru-
sion above his head. He was astonished to find
that this natural rock shelf held an offering of
a human skull, pottery, the skull of a dog, deer
bones, and a two-edged knife probably used
for sacrifices, all neatly placed there centuries
earlier. His headlamp, pointed straight down at
the cenote’s depths, revealed broken columns,
a carved anthropomorphic jaguar, and a figure
similar to one of the little stone men at Chichén.
Itza Temple of the Warriors, sculpted to look as
if they were holding up the sky. This well in the
middle of a cornfield was clearly a sacred site.
‘Now, three years later, de Anda and Montero
had discovered not only a connection between
the zenith sun and Holtin but apparently also
the role of that sun and the cenote in the sit-
ing and orientation of Chichén Itza’s El Castillo
pyramid. It was already known that atthe spring
equinox a snake of sunlight slithers down one
side of the pyramid’s central staircase—a sight
witnessed every year by thousands of tourists.
Some walk the short distance to the famousPleading for rain for the village of Yaxuna a kneeling shaman chants prayers at
a rectangular altar, which symbolizes the four-cormered shape of the Maya
universe. During this age-old ceremony, men circle with offerings of food, while
crouching boys imitate the sounds that frogs make when it rains.
Sacred Cenote, which, over the centuries that
Chichén Itza was a great city-state, received in its
mouth any number of human beings and other
precious offerings. Early on May 23, the zenith
day, Montero had gone to the central pyramid
and discovered that the sun, K’inich Ajaw, rises
in line with the pyramid’s northeast corner. It
then sets in line with the pyramids western stair
case and the nondescript Holttin well.
‘The Maya, to calibrate their calendar, which
is justly famous to this day, had to determine
the days of the year when the sun shone exactly
overhead, not one fraction of a degree lower or
higher. Montero and de Anda speculated that
Maya astronomers waited inside the Holtin well,
for those two zenith moments in the year when a
vertical pillar of sunlight pierces the water with-
out reflecting onto the dome
For the Maya, astronomy was a sacred ac-
tivity, as were architecture and city planning
De Anda and Montero now think that not just
Holtin but other cenotes may have played an
important role in determining where to site
buildings. The Sacred Cenote lies north of El
Castillo. ‘Two other cenotes lie to its south and
southeast. ‘The Holtin cenote, directly northwest
of the pyramid, may have completed the dia-
mond configuration that allowed the Itza people
to determine where to build their sacred city
and how to angle its main pyramid. If further
studies corroborate all this, the most important
coordinates of Chichén Itza’ overarching design
will snap into place.
Such at least is de Anda’s hope. But on this
day he and Montero had already accomplished
much, The sun drew up its spears of light and
continued on its way across the face of the Earth,
Alma Guillermoprieto, a frequent contributor,
‘won an Overseas Press Club award for her May
2010 story on Mexico's new saints. Photographer
Paul Nicklen underwent extensive cave-diving
training for this story. Shaul Schwarz traced Maya
culture in the Yucatdn above water.
MAYA SACRED CENOTES 107Ce ee ee ae eu ao ae CT Ty
De eR Rune eC mn
eee ED ac nan Nee Eu ay
ancient Maya built a structure at the surface that caught the rays the same way.eee
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LINKS TO THE
COSMOS
SOC Eee RS i Un eee
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passage makes a serpent-like shadow slither down its side. Guillermo de
LeU ea ogee ede a od
four cenotes (where the white lines cross, right), probably symbolizing the
See Ene ed
to the moments when the sun reaches its highest point in the sky (far
CR Reno eRPU ee Te yen dy
Desperate for water for thelr crops, the Maya petitioned the rain god Chaak from
cee ee een nee Mert eyes
offerings and performed rituals, which may have included bloodletting, Archaeclo-
Pee eee eee Ee eed ae
Se ee eee gs a a
bones and ceramics may also have fallen to the depths on their own,
Coe On ng
or Cec CCL omc
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the floor Psa i ie
(among
cones |
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iS Seed ]
SOARES
ee eo
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us oem a
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SEE ANG
en <
en et cs
solar zenith—is rays fall — e
poe rt Me! ee adDE ANDA WAS ASTONISHED TO FIND THAT THE NATURAL
ROCK SHELF HELD AN OFFERING OF A HUMAN SKULL,
while in the renewed dark the two chattered
excitedly about what they had seen and what
it meant. “Un abrazo, hermano!” Montero ex-
claimed, and the two men surged toward each
other in the water and flappingly embraced.
boveground the crew of Maya farmers, in
As and flip-flops, had to work hard
to haul the explorers up again. Around
us were rustling cornfields that had been waiting
for the rain too long, but team master Luis Un
Ken, a smiling man respected by everyone in his
nearby village, is by nature an optimist. “There
was a good rain the other day.” he said, patting
the sweat off his face. “The Chaak moved”
For men like Un Ken, the old gods are still
very much alive, and Chaak, ruler of cenotes and
caves, is among the most important gods of all.
For the benefit of living things, he pours from
the skies the water he keeps in earthenware jars
in caves. Chaak is one and many: Each thunder-
clap isa separate Chaak in action, breaking a jar
open and letting the rain fall. Each god inhabits
a separate layer of reality, along with dozens of
alternately complacent and ferocious gods that
live in the 13 otherworlds above and the 9 oth-
erworlds below. Together, they filled the Maya
people’ lives with dreams, visions, and night-
mares; a complicated calendar of agricultural
times and fertility rituals; and a firm sense of
the way things must be done. Chaak had moved,
Un Ken said, and that meant the planting season
would soon arrive.
Chaak’s absence can cause the Yucatan Maya
untold disasters, tragedies properly understood
only when one is standing on the hard, lunar
surface of their former empire, an endless shelf
of karstic rock, or limestone. Rain seeps straight
through the karst to groundwater levels, and as.
a result no river or brook runs through the land.
(Cenotes are actually sinkholes that extend to
the water table.) From the air one sees a green
sea of dense jungle. At ground level the tropi-
cal forest is thin—spindly trees whose stubborn
roots are adapted to the pockets of soil that dot
the karst. Wherever the soil hollows are large
enough, Maya will plant corn or a milpa, a wise
112 NATIONAL GEoGRAPHI
+ avausT 2013Hovering above the offering shelf in the Holtdn cenote, Guillermo de Anda
sapile of “This work is about millimeters,” says photographer
Paul Nicklen. “Y
ries, so you have to have impeccable divcombination of the corn, beans, and squash that
constitute their basic source of protein. But corn
is a hungry crop; it sucks lots of nutrients from,
the soil. For thousands of years milpa farm-
ers have kept their small fields productive by
burning a different patch of trees every year and
planting in the corn-friendly ashes. We call this
deforestation, but to the Maya it means survival.
As for water for the fields... well, that’s where
Chaak comes in. Only seasonal rains can make
the corn grow, and they must arrive in an excru-
ciatingly accurate pattern: no rain in winter, so
that the fields and forest will be dry enough to
burn by March; some rain in early May to soften
up the soil for planting; then very gentle rain to
allow the planted seeds to sprout and the young
corn god to make his appearance in the shape of
a barely formed corm ear; finally plenty of rain to
send the cornstalks shooting skyward and fatten
the kernels on the mature corn, At any point in,
the yearly cycle irregular rains mean a smaller
ration of food for a family.
The unsolved archaeological question is why
the great Yucatan Maya city-states collapsed
one after another. The miracle is that they sur-
vived at all, fed by corn grown in such a harsh
environment.
‘et they did survive—and prospered too—
Y sometimes reaping a plentiful harvest
.d sometimes, as Guillermo de Anda
believes happened at the Holtiin well, placing
offerings inside a cenote during a prolonged
drought, when the water table could sink by 20
feet. With a population estimated in the mil-
lions a thousand years ago, the northern Maya
built so many cities—in the dry north, always
next to a life-giving cenote—that one starts
to think the Yucatan forest is an archaeolo-
gist’s do-it-yourself: Anyone can trip over an
untouched ruin, In fact a couple of days after
the Yucatan zenith day, I was trudging down
a path between milpas and forest a few miles
from Chichén Itz with archaeologist and cave
explorer Donald Slater, when he nodded toward
our right and said, “There it is” There what was?
looked around and saw cornfields to our left
Aceramic flute displays a human face (at lett)
beneath a curved bird's beak. Archaeologist Donald
Slater and colleague Sabrina Simén found the
offering near a natural stone altar deep in a cave.
and forest to our right. “There? Slater insisted.
Just skinny trees, and behind those, more tr
Then what looked like a blurry thickening of the
forest about 50 yards off the path turned out to
be a steeply pitched hill. Of cou
steep hills anywhere in the neighborhood. But
there are pyramids. ‘This was a particularly tall
one, and directly facing its southwest corner was
a very big cave.
To the Maya the cave would have been a
mouth, the gaping jaws of a devouring Earth de-
ity or one of the dwelling places of Chak. Slater
was hoping to document his claim that this cave
was a sacred observation point from which to
greet the arrival of the sun on its zenith day and
that this pyramid—which has been known about
but never fully explored—was built or at least
oriented specifically in relation to the cave.
Before our visit Slater had asked a crew of
Maya farmers to clear the jungle growth cov-
ering the structure's western face so that the
zenith sun’ track could be observed more clearly.
se there are noluminating his discovery, Guillermo de Anda shows off the only known sacbe,
or sacred path, inside a cave. At the rock column this stone walkway tums
west, toward a cenote’s shimmering pool. The ancient Maya believed that was
the direction leading to the underworld, a stop on the journey to heaven.
At the cave lip Slater pointed out the remains
of a set of stairs rough-hewed centuries before,
pethaps to give shamans access to this terrify-
ing maw of the Earth, Slater speculates that the
solar priests would have spent the night before
the zenith sun fasting, dancing, and chanting to
the sound of drums and double-chambered clay
flutes like those he found deep inside the cave,
praising the sun god for bringing the zenith day
around once more, and with it, the rains,
‘As we stood where the holy men once might
have, the entire pyramid loomed before us. We
waited, At 8:07 a.m. a fat, orange globe bobbled
up behind the pyramid, appeared to pause for
a second or two, and then displayed itself in
blinding glory as it cleared the top, filling our
cave with its fiery light. Centuries ago on the
two zenith days, Slater explained, it would have
performed its bobble dance on what are now the
ruins of a platform on the top southwest corner
of the structure,
‘To the sky-gas
1g Maya, the pyramids in the
Yucatan, others of which were aligned with the
rising and setting suns of equinox and zenith
days, would have seemed not landbound piles of
stone but cosmic timekeepers—upward-yearning
structures in constant interaction with the heav-
ens, And the interaction of K'inich Ajaw, the sun,
and the sacred waters of Chaak was the dance of
life that made the cornfields possible.
Roaming the Yucatén Peninsula, I was look-
ing for rituals and beliefs held by modern
Maya that might help me understand their link
to their glorious ancestors. Most Maya today
live in poor farming communities, and Chak,
who remains so important to them, is celebrated
seasonally in an extended rain-calling prayer
known asa Cha Chak.
Some 80 miles southeast of Chichén Itzi,
approaching the area now known by the mis-
leading, if glamorous, name of the Maya Riv-
iera, lies the village of Chunpén. It is part of
[E on my own modest search for Chak.
MAYA SACRED CENOTES 115‘Scattered handprints, some from children, mark the walls of a cave next to
the shadows cast by Dante Garcia Sedano, Guillermo de Anda’s assistant. This
cave likely was part of a ritual landscape that included four cenotes, where the
Maya left more handprints, human bones, and offerings of ceramics.
a government-designated Zona Maya that cov-
ers a sizable portion of the Yucatan Peninsula,
1 visited Chunpén in the company of a man
named Pastor Caamal. During work hours he
is a proudly independent tour guide, and like
many of his neighbors and Luis Un Ken, he is
a Cruzoob, or believer in the Talking Cross, a
relic from the 19th-century uprising known as
the Caste War. A descendant of Maya warriors
who fought government troops, he still does
round-the-clock guard duty at the crosss sacred
garrison two weeks out of every year.
“The Cruzoob are basically the Maya who
survived? Caamal said to me on a summer af-
ternoon as we zipped down a flat highway in
the Zona Maya toward his hometown, That
was something of an exaggeration: ‘The Caste
War was a strictly local affair, and there are ap-
proximately five million Maya living in an area
Society Grant This research was funded in part by
your National Geographic Society membership.
that encompasses the lower third of Mexico, as
well as most of Belize and Guatemala, western
Honduras, and western El Salvador. But it is
true that in the Yucatan, the war touched nearly
every village
Tasked Caamal how he bridged the difference
between the old Maya gods and Jesus Christ,
whom the Maya frequently invoke, sometimes
calling him Our Lord Most Holy Cross Three
Persons. “We are polytheists?” Caamal answered.
Strikingly, there is virtually no Catholic presence
in the zona; instead there are hmem—shamans,
healers, and enchanters who usually discover
their vocation in dreams, then mediate between
the gods and their needy worshippers.
In answer to my increasingly desperate que-
ries about where I might be able to witness a Cha
Chaak rain ritual, Caamal said his own hmem,
might know of a Cha Chak coming up some-
where, although it was late in the season.
In the bruising heat of midday we made
a brief stop in Chunpén at Caamal’s familyFOR MEN LIKE UN KEN, THE OLD GODS ARE ALIVE, AND
CHAAK IS AMONG THE MOST IMPORTANT GODS OF ALL.
compound. In the oval kitchen hut was strung
a row of hammocks, each cradling a Caamal
relative who lay chatting and rocking gently. It
would have been cooler without the hearth—
three large stones on the dirt floor with embers
glowing beneath a large iron griddle—but the
kitchen embers are always stoked. Caamal’s
fierce, tiny mother glared at me, a “Spanish?” or
non-Maya, visitor, but she made some tortillas,
offering them with meat and chilies. Later she
would pointedly ask her son when I was plan-
ning to get out of her hammock and leave, but
the rules of hospitality, as set as the movement
of the stars, dictated that food be offered.
Back on the road, we saw slender trees shoot-
ing up from the bone-white, bone-hard surface
of the karst. We stopped at the village of Chun-
‘Yah, which, like many in the Zona Maya, has no
Jand or cellular phone communication with the
outside world and only rudimentary schools. In
his own dusty compound of oval thatched-roof
huts, Caamal’s mentor and hmem, Mariano Pa-
checo Caamal, greeted me with a broad smile.
‘on Mariano said he knew how to use 40
D different kinds of plants to cure illnesses
and heal fractures and snakebites. Ata
particularly fragile time for Pastor, Don Mariano
had built a protective ring of invisible fire around
his friend. In dreams he had learned what to ask
each god and on which day of the week. He knew
where to find the sacred caves.
Don Mariano wore cutoffs and flip-flops and
seemed to have remarkably few possessions for
a man of his age and prestige. He spoke only
elementary Spanish, and because my Mayan is
nonexistent, Pastor had to translate my questions
a few different ways to get the meaning across. I
asked Don Mariano how he knew he was Maya.
‘The mild-mannered hmem blinked behind his
thick glasses. “Because we are poor” he said. I
asked again. “Because of what we eat, our skin
color, our height,’ came the reply, and then he
thought of a better answer. “Because here there
are no factories, machines, smoke, At night we
have peacefulness, silence. In the morning I say,
‘Today [will do this or that. Our work is our own,
When one works for outsiders, they say, Give me
your time. But Maya are their own rulers”
Did he know of a Cha Chaak coming up?
Alas, Don Mariano could only confirm that I
was late, In Chun-Yah as elsewhere, the time for
planting and rain invoking had already passed.
‘Then he graciously explained how a Cha Chaak
offering is set up in his small part of the Maya
universe. A rectangular altar, or offering table,
about three feet wide and made of saplings and
a few boards, represents the world. ‘The vari-
ous foods for Chaak are placed on it in a strict
order, along with half-gourd cups of a sacred
fermented drink, balché, made from tree bark,
and gourds filled with holy water taken from a
hidden cenote or cave. The special food offering
consists of 13 loaves of “bread, thick tortillas
made of 13 layers of masa, or corn dough, rep-
resenting the 13 layers of the otherworld above.
‘The bread is wrapped in leaves of bakaalché, a
local vine, and baked in a coffin-size pit, or pib,
dug out near the altar. A cross is placed at the
center back of the table to oversee the whole.
I ventured that | had heard about sapitos,
small boys who crouch at the base of the altar
table and encourage Chak to arrive by imitating
the call of frogs during the rainy season. Pastor
and the hmem looked at each other and smiled.
“You heard about that [near Chichén Itz),
right?” Pastor said. He imitated the boys imi-
tating the frogs: “They go lek lek lek.” He smiled
again. “Muy bonita costumbre, A very pretty
custom,” He grinned. “We don't do that here?”
In Yaxund, a little town in the middle of
the peninsula—on yet another parchingly hot
morning, the rains overdue, not a cloud in
sight—where a late season ceremony was being
held for the laggard Chaak, they most certainly
do. Yaxund is some 12 miles south of Chichén
Itz, and in this part of Yucatén many people
still depend on milpa, making them the anxious
subjects of Chaak.
‘The ceremony in Yaxund had almost ended
by the time I caught up with it. For going on
two days rain-desperate villagers and their
hmem had toiled without rest or sleep to per-
suade Chaak to come to them. They had walked
MAYA SACRED CENOTES 117In the once sacred waters of a cenote Karla and Justin Petraitis pose for photos
after a wedding ceremony infused with Maya and New Age themes. The event
was only symbolic, so the couple had married back home in Tennessee before-
COCR i Wn ice eu caeA snorkeling tourist floats in a cenote
Tulum. Local Maya got their drinking water here until about 30 years ago, wi
have rex if more than
a hundred people, usually shrouded by the water's primordial darkness.THE RAIN STARTED—A SIGN THAT CHAAK HAD
RECEIVED HIS OFFERING AND WAS PLEASED.
a long way through the forest to a secret cave
and scrabbled down to its center on a scary rope
system to bring up the water the ceremony re-
quired. ‘They had raised the altar, dug the pib,
gone to enormous expense to provide 13 fat hens
for the ritual meal, guarded the altar overnight
while praying and drinking balché, patted out
the stacks of 13-layer corn-and-squash-seed
breads that no women had been allowed to
touch, cooked them in the pib, and brought
them out of their fiery bed again, leaving the
pit open so that the steam could rise directly to
the rain god as an offering.
And now the hmem, Hipélito Puuc Tamay, a
slow-moving, leathery man in a red baseball cap
and much washed shirt, was standing in front
of the altar praying to Chaak, to Jesus Christ, to
all the saints, to San Juan Bautista, to the forces
of the Earth and sky, and to Chak again, to let
the holy blessing of rain fall on them and on all
the surrounding Maya communities so that they
might survive one more full cycle of the sun. On
instructions from the hmem, one of the villagers,
crouched on a rock behind and to one side of the
altar, keeping very still, only blowing from time
to time into one of the gourds in which Chaak
stores the wind, He was just one of the neighbors,
but he was also the rain god, and he sat with
his eyes closed so as not to harm the ceremony
with his terrible glance. Two other participants
brought him to the altar, facing backward, to
receive the hmem’s neutralizing blessing.
And there the litle frogs were too, five slightly
abashed boys crouching at the foot of the world
altar, one boy at each corner and one at the cen-
ter, four of them saying, uaa, hmaa, hmaa, and
the fifth, lek lek lek lek lek, a blended sound re-
markably like that of frogs in the evening rain.
Out of nowhere a wind came up in the clear-
ing. Thunder rolled in the blue distance.
As the ceremonial meal of chicken and the
corn-and-seed bread was being distributed to
the exhausted men, the rain started—a light,
refreshing summer shower. A sign, the hmem
said, that Chak had received his offering and
was pleased with his people’s prayer. Soon, per-
haps, the Earth would be ready for planting, 0
MAYA SACRED CENOTES 121Bi new ace oF > exrtonaTion | cRAPnic LooK
KRUBERA CAVE
Expeditions have pushed ever deeper
into thi ct auc
Mountains setting a series of records
urrent % Previous
th world
Braving Caves ate’
DARK AND MYSTERIOUS, deep caves have attracted pda camp
, ("| -hemor
explorers since the 1800s. Caving pioneer Edouard |
Alfred Martel, a French lawyer, investigated more than y
tho!
d
and the US. for three
saverns in Europe
nti
des. A self-taught
mapped, and photographed as he went. He also
romoted caving as @ hobby in his vivid lectures and :
ts, After an 1889 visit to a
repo
Rabanel, he likened one chamber to a church's nave Cascade
of Tears
with “stalactites that hang like ib
fal tears,
fo probe these cracks in the Earth, Martel relied on
a rope rigged with pulleys, sible
winch, and a coll
50s most
nvas boat (for subterranean rivers). By the 1
cavers were using cumbersome ladders made of s
cables, But Bill Cuddington, caving in
stern US,
worked out a simple ling down and climbing
up a single rope fed to a rock. The technique
slowly caught on and revolutionize
the sport, earning
him the nickname “Vertical Bill" Today similar rope work
s cavers to exph
ike Krut
ore the depths of extreme chasms ¢
fa (right), in the
ving
pushe
such othenworidly realms,
Inspired a new generation of scientists. Hazel
Barton is a University of Akron microbiologist. To get to
her research sites hundreds of feet below the ground,
she rappels down shafts, squeezes through cracks, and
tipt ches wide. Beyond thi
along ridges just
of the sun's en
ray, the bacteria she studies feed off
here could be similar life h ”
'd be shocked if there isn't 5
122 NATIONAL GEoGRaPH
AuGuST 2013cave
entrance Feet
HAZARDS
ith the right gear, explorers can conquer co
caves that were once oft iis
EXTREME HEAT
Cave of Crystals
Ghinuabus, Mexico
‘An ice-cooted suit
and air supply pre-
vent heatstoke in oo
temperatures that
can hit 113°, llow-
ing vists of up to
an hour
2012
EXPEDITION Toxic GAs
People 59 Cave of the 2,000
“ope __® Lighted House
Duration 27 days ‘Tabasco, Mexico
Gear 2.65 tons 2287 ft Arespiator
ae protects against
Exploring the ( hydrogen sulide,
‘depts of Krubera which frequently
was ike climbing reaches lethal
Mount Everest in levels
reverse. Team 300
members tom nine
counties staged
their assauttin a SHEER DROP
seties of camps. Velebita Cave
‘AUkeainian made Ro¥anski Kukow, Croatia
the final push for ‘This vertical pit cave
the new record has the longest
straight drop, at
1,683 feet. Rope ~4000
designed to minimize
stretch allows for safe
‘A camp ate
4583 ft a
6,000
sero tte
January 2001
‘Camp
“5840 1
6037 ft 6.000
August 2004
Milennium Pe
mp a
BOTTOMING OUT Pera
Krubera Cave we 00241
Abkhazia, Georgia er 2008
Alitscurent known depth (ight),
Krubera plunges mare than Game Over
1,200 feet deeper than any “72081 “te 7.080 tt 7.000
other cave ‘August 2012 September 2006BUT NEW AGE OF > EXPLORATION | RISK TAKER
10 Grob
‘SUNITA WILLIAMS 2
sume The
sons and Star Trek signaled a future
where space travel would be routine. She never dreamed she'd be one of the pioneers.
The former Navy pilot, ag
47, has spent 322 days in s
e and 50 hours walking in
e-the most spac first met astronauts two
alking of any female astronaut. Sh
]0 during test pilot school—ar
discovered that with her flying exper
she could join them. Now, as a member of the astronaut cr
ps, she draws upon her
Navy background. Welking in space, she says, is ike flying a helicopter with a battle
group: You focus on your job but always know where the other guy is.
What's the most impressive thing about a space walk?
The view—being way, way high looking down and seeing the northem lights below.
Isit scary?
(On my first walk [in 2006] there was a problem with a solar array that we needed to look
al. jm, felt like Iwas
$| started going up
ynnecting the array to th
climbing a skyscraper. | had to tell myself, I's OK. You're not going to fall. | clipped on a
al tether and let my hands go to prove to myself, Hey, you're OK. In spac:
your eyes for a second, you can twist the frame of reference. | remember
trained in the poo!
limbing this piece [while it lay] on its side,
I'm on its side. 'm not climbing up; I'm climbing sideways.
Are there things you do to keep yourself grounded while living in space?
(On my first flight loat down to the [Russian] end of the space station because
there was only one bathroom at the time, [Cosmonaut] Misha Tyurin woul
‘Would you like some tea?” We would sit or float or whatever for five or ten minutes
drinking te
nd just talk about if
You did a space triathlon: treadmill, stationary bike. How'd you swim?
To mimic] the swim, | had 15 exercises, tt lasted about 20 minutes, my usual swim time,
What next?
Eventually | mig}
like to teach seventh-grade science, But I'd love itif the U.S.
ld get
the next spacecraft going. I'd jump at the chance to be a test pilotParade
of the
Painted
Elephants
Adorning pachyderms
is elevated to an art form
atan annual festival
in Jaipur, India.
Held in high esteem, elephants have played an outsize role in India’s history and culture.
437PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHARLES FREGER,
THE ROYALTY OF INDIA—HINDU AND MUSLIM—UNDERSTOOD LONG
ago that power was best wielded from the back of an elephant. Kings ap-
peared before their dazzled subjects on elephants whose ivory tusks glittered
with gold and silver and whose bodies shimmered in silk and velvet. “An
elephant mounted by a king is radiant; a king mounted on an elephant is
resplendent? proclaims one historical manuscript.
‘Tourists are now king, and so at the Elephant Festival in Jaipur, Rajasthan,
instead of pomp there are elephant polo, elephant tug-of-war, and an elephant
beauty contest. The participants in the festival are working animals, which
spend most days ferrying tourists up to the Amber Palace, a historic site
above the city that attracts visitors from all over the world, For the annual
festival the elephants are garbed in their finest costumes. Last spring pho-
tographer Charles Fréger traveled to Jaipur to capture the elephants in their
glory—bright with paint, bangles, and drapes. He was drawn to the elephants
because in India they are “sacred sometimes and being used sometimes” But
they also have strong personalities, he says, “playing and moving all the time”
He got the pictures, but then the festival was canceled, reportedly because
animal rights groups raised concerns about how the animals were treated
‘The elephant has long been revered by Indians, And that has “helped mas-
sively” to protect them, says Rachel Dwyer, a British scholar researching the
cultural history of Indian elephants. “India’ elephants have survived in larger
numbers than other elephants in Asia.” The elephant-headed god Ganesh,
the remover of obstacles, is invoked before every new endeavor. Elephants
add to the aura of temples and bestow blessings on the devoted. Beautiful
women are said to walk with an elephant’s gait.
But the animals face an uncertain future. An estimated 3,500 to 4,000
elephants are held in captivity, and according to Suparna Baksi Ganguly, a
former member of India’s Task Force on Elephants, “almost all are part of the
huge illegal trafficking in wildlife” Some steps have been taken to improve
their welfare. Ihe elephants photographed here dwell in Hathi Gaon, a village
near the Amber Palace designed specifically for elephants and their ma-
houts. Tall enclosures that shelter the
elephants are scattered among ponds
where the mahouts bathe the great New.
beasts at the end of the day. “Tradi- :
tion has no meaning if it results in Ge
suffering and exploitation,” says Gan-
guly, yet “all Indians, culturally, have INDIA
love, respect, and great devotion for
the elephant” —Rachel Hartigan Shea
Elephants once carried soldiers
into battle. Now grooms ride them
in splendid wedding processions. owas
129Asian elephants
lack the grand tusks
of their African,
cousins, and many
males don't have
tusks at all, Females
have tushes, long
teeth hidden by their
upper lips. Some
mahouts screw long
plastic tusks into the
tushes (left and
upper right) to make
their elephants look
more dramatic.
ELEPHANT FESTIVAL
a3The elephants are
decorated with
the same kinds of
pigments that are
used during Holi, the
Hindu festival in which
celebrants splash
each other with bright
colors, Professional
artists paint the
‘elephants in advance
of the festival in
Jaipur, which is held
on the eve of Holi
432 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC + AUGUST 2013ery month tis page features our staf picks of National Geographic
ciety products and events, For more go to nglve.org
Joel Sartore
Photographer Joel Sartore’s
work for the Geographic has
brought him face-to-face with
animals of all stripes, like this
veiled chameleon. Now he's
on a quest to photograph
every endangered species on
Earth. For his speaking dates
in Canada, Australia, and New
Zealand visit nglive.org.
URE
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC ON INSTAGRAM Follow National Geographic magazine's oficial
PHOTOS Instagram feed and see what our globe-trekking photographers are up to. Dally updates
Include dispatches from the field and unpublished images. Search for the user name @natgeo.
ADVENTURE TRAVEL Our adventure trips are designed for
m travelers eager to explore off the beaten path—on foot or on
TRIPS horseback, by kayak or even by dogsled. Find action-packed.
itineraries for Patagonia, Mount Kilimanjaro (left), and dest
nations closer to home at nationalgeographloadventures.com.
‘THE BEAUTIFUL DAYS This photography exhibit, now
touring South Korea, showcases the diversity of life on
EXHIBIT the land, in the air, and under the sea. Amy Toensing’s|
portrait of a Papua New Guinean (right) is just one of
180 images on display. See ngphoto.co.kr for more.
Sa
e
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parks and power plants—and compete for the best city ranking, Start building your eco-
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GAME
National Geographic Kids World Atlas
‘Our award-winning maps now come ina fresh, kid-friendly
design. This updated atlas has a new games section with
‘crosswords and puzzles that incorporate the latest statistics
‘and country information. Classic National Geographic maps,
rich graphies, and more than 200 illustrations round out the
volume. Available now ($14.99)
Book of the Month
134 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC + AUGUST 2013 Pots fRO6 To JOEL SATORE MTINAL OGRATHE MOMENT \vichaet Nichols
Eyes on the Pride nighttime was the rignt time for veteran National Geographic
photographer Michael Nichols to take pictures of ions, The cats sleep most ofthe day, preserving
energy for hunts after dark. To capture a pride's pursuit of prey-or the sharing of bounty (below)—
he used infrared light that is not disruptive to lions and produces black-and-white images. For
close-ups, he affixed a camera to a small robot. “We never wanted to use equipment that would
startle them or deny them a meal,” Nichols says. “We tried to treat them with honor.” —Daniel Stone
BEHIND THE LENS
You really did get up close
and personal with the lions.
MN: We did, We had incredible intimacy.
Our car was closer than close, just a few
feet away. We saw cubs when they were
tiny and watched them grow up. Inever
thought I'd find so much family support
‘among them. Lions are different from house
‘eats, which can lve individually. Being there,
you really se how much they depend on
‘each other to survive.
Were you afraid of
getting hurt?
Peychologically, its
very strange. You
have to take the
leap of faith that
they have no desire
to hurt you. But if
you make a mistake,
like putting your
armor leg outside
the car, all of that
‘could change. One
swipe and you'd be
done. One time a
lion three feet away
almost walked into
‘our vehicle.
Did you sense
that they felt
threatened by you?
‘They were nervous
at first but quickly
got habituated to
Us. They see the
car as one entity,
not understanding
‘that humans are
Init. Lions are very
efficient animals,
so they won't
expend energy
unless they see you
asa threat. We got
very close, but we
never interacted,FLASHBACK
Glove Story 4 motat:mosh glove “ke a crusader's gauntlet” protected
photographer Luis Marden’s hand while he changed flashbulbs during a shoot in
Mexico's Yucatan, “Up From the Well of Time,” the longtime Geographic staffer's story
on the region's Dzibilchaltun cenote, appeared in the January 1959 issue of the magazine.
Marden learned the hard way that such an accessory was necessary when working in
the deep. (His dives at Dzibilchaltiin reached depths of 144 feet.) According to notes that
accompany the photo: “Once while Marden was diving in the Mediterranean, a flashbulb
imploded under water pressure and nearly cost him his thumb.” —Margaret G. Zackowitz
Flashback Archive Find all the photos at ngm.com.{OU CA
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