Nothing in Life Is Free

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

A Training Technique for Dogs

OES YOUR DOG GET ON THE FURNITURE and refuse to get off?
Nudge your hand and insist on being petted or played with? Refuse
to come when called? Defend his food bowl or toys from you?

If so, a training technique called nothing in life is free

may be just the solution youre looking for. Nothing
in life is free is not a magic pill that will solve a specific
behavior problem. Instead, its a way of living with your
dog that will help him behave better because he trusts
and accepts you as his leader and is confident knowing
his place in the family.

How to Practice Nothing in Life Is Free

Use positive reinforcement methods to teach your dog

a few commands and tricks. Sit, Down, and Stay
are useful commands. Shake, Speak, and Roll over
are fun tricks to teach your dog.
Once your dog has mastered a few commands, you can
begin to practice nothing in life is free. Before you
give your dog anything (food, a treat, a walk, a pat on
the head), he must first perform one of the commands
he has learned. See the chart below for examples.

Once youve given the command, dont give your

dog what he wants until he does what you want. If he
refuses to perform the command, walk away, come back
a few minutes later, and start again. If your dog refuses
to obey the command, be patient and remember that
eventually he will have to obey your command to get
what he wants.

Make sure your dog knows the command well and

understands what you want before you begin
practicing nothing in life is free.

The Benefits of This Technique

Most dogs assume a neutral or submissive role toward

people, but some dogs will challenge their owners for
dominance. Requiring a dominant dog to work for
everything he wants is a safe, nonconfrontational
way to establish control.
continued on reverse side

YOU

YOUR DOG

Put your dogs leash on to go for a walk

Feed your dog
Play a game of fetch after work
Rub your dogs belly while watching TV

Must sit until youve put the leash on

Must lie down and stay until youve put the bowl down
Must sit and shake hands each time you throw the toy
Must lie down and roll over before being petted

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

Dogs who may never display aggressive behavior such

as growling, snarling, or snapping may still manage to
manipulate you. These dogs may display affectionate
behavior that borders on being pushy, such as nudging
your hand to be petted or worming their way onto the
furniture to be close to you. This technique gently reminds
the dog that he must abide by your rules.
Fearful dogs may become more confident by obeying
commands. Having a strong leader and knowing his
place in the hierarchy helps to make the submissive
dog feel more secure.

Why This Technique Works

From your dogs point of view, children also have a place

in this hierarchy. Because children are small and can get
down on the dogs level to play, dogs often consider them
to be playmates rather than superiors. With the supervision
of an adult, its a good idea to encourage children in the
household to also practice nothing in life is free with the
family dog.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS. All rights
reserved.

Animals who live in groups, like dogs, establish a social

structure within the group called a dominance hierarchy.
This dominance hierarchy serves to maintain order, reduce
conflict, and promote cooperation among pack members. To
ensure that your home is a safe and happy place for pets and
people, the humans in the household should assume the
highest positions in the dominance hierarchy. Practicing
nothing in life is free gently and effectively communicates
to your dog that his position in the hierarchy is subordinate
to yours.

Related topics at www.petsforlife.org

Positive Reinforcement: Training Your Dog

(or Cat!) with Treats and Praise

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Understanding Aggressive
Behavior in Dogs

DOGS BARK MAY BE WORSE THAN HIS BITE, but most of

us would rather not find out the hard way. Growling, baring teeth,
snarling, snapping, and biting are all aggressive behaviorsbut dog
aggression includes any behavior meant to intimidate or harm a person
or another animal. Although these messages are among the handful of
communication tools available to dogs, theyre generally unacceptable
to humans. Because humans and dogs have different communication
systems, misunderstandings can occur between the two species.

But from a dogs perspective, theres always a reason

for aggressive behavior. A person may intend to be
friendly, but a dog may perceive that persons behavior
as threatening or intimidating. Dogs arent being
schizophrenic, psychotic, crazy, or necessarily vicious
when displaying aggressive behavior.
Because aggression is so complex, and because the
potential consequences are so serious, we recommend
that you get professional in-home help from an
animal-behavior specialist if your dog is displaying
aggressive behavior.

Types of Aggression

challenge your dogs social position. A dominantaggressive dog may growl if he is disturbed when resting
or sleeping or if he is asked to give up a favorite spot,
such as the couch or the bed. Physical restraint, even
when done in a friendly manner (like hugging), may
also cause your dog to respond aggressively. Reaching for
your dogs collar or reaching over his head to pet him
could also be interpreted as a challenge for dominance.
Dominant-aggressive dogs are often described as Jekyll
and Hydes because they can be very friendly when not
challenged. Dominance aggression may be directed at
people or at other animals. The most common reason
for fights among dogs in the same family is instability
in the dominance hierarchy.

Dominance Aggression
Dominance aggression is motivated by a challenge to a
dogs social status or to his control of a social interaction.
Dogs are social animals and view their human families
as their social group or pack. Based on the outcomes
of social challenges among group members, a dominance
hierarchy or pecking order is established.
If your dog perceives his own ranking in the hierarchy
to be higher than yours, hell probably challenge you
in certain situations. Because people dont always
understand canine communication, you may inadvertently

Fear-Motivated Aggression
Fear-motivated aggression is a defensive reaction and
occurs when a dog believes he is in danger of being
harmed. Remember that its your dogs perception
of the situation, not your actual intent, which determines
your dogs response. For example, you may raise your
arm to throw a ball, but your dog may bite you because
he believes hes protecting himself from being hit.
A dog may also be fearfully aggressive when approached
by other dogs.
continued on reverse side

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

Protective, Territorial, and Possessive Aggression

Protective, territorial, and possessive aggression are all
very similar and involve the defense of valuable resources.
Territorial aggression is usually associated with defense
of property, and that territory may extend well past the
boundaries of your yard. For example, if you regularly walk
your dog around the neighborhood and allow him to urinemark, he may think his territory includes the entire block.
Protective aggression usually refers to aggression directed
toward people or animals whom a dog perceives as threats
to his family, or pack. Dogs become possessively aggressive
when defending their food, toys, or other valued objects,
including items as peculiar as tissues stolen from the trash.

Redirected Aggression
This is a relatively common type of aggression but one
that is often misunderstood by pet owners. If a dog is
somehow provoked by a person or animal he is unable to
attack, he may redirect this aggression onto someone else.
For example, two family dogs may become excited and bark
and growl in response to another dog passing through the
front yard, or two dogs confined behind a fence may turn
and attack each other because they cant attack an intruder.
Predation is usually considered to be a unique kind of
aggressive behavior because its motivated by the intent
to obtain food and not primarily by the intent to harm
or intimidate.

Individual Variation
The likelihood of a dog to show aggressive behavior in any
particular situation varies markedly from dog to dog. Some
dogs tend to respond aggressively with very little stimulation.
Others may be subjected to all kinds of threatening stimuli
and events and yet never attempt to bite.
The difference in the threshold prompting aggressive
behavior is influenced by both environmental and genetic
factors. If this threshold is low, a dog will be more likely
to bite. Raising the threshold makes a dog less likely to
respond aggressively. This threshold can be raised using
behavior modification techniques, but the potential
for change is influenced by a dogs gender, age, breed,
general temperament, and the way in which the behavior
modification techniques are chosen and implemented.

Related topics at www.petsforlife.org

Because working with aggressive dogs can be potentially

dangerous, behavior modification techniques should only
be attempted by, or under the guidance of, an experienced
animal-behavior professional who understands animal
learning theory and behavior.
What You Can Do
First, check with your veterinarian to rule out medical
causes for the aggressive behavior.
Seek professional advice. An aggression problem will
not go away by itself. Working with aggression problems
requires in-home help from an animal-behavior specialist.
Take precautions. Your first priority is to keep people and
other animals safe. Supervise, confine, or restrict your
dogs activities until you can obtain professional guidance.
You are liable for your dogs behavior. If you must take
your dog out in public, consider a cage-type muzzle as
a temporary precaution, and remember that some dogs
are clever enough to get a muzzle off.
Avoid exposing your dog to situations where he is more
likely to show aggression. You may need to keep him
confined to a safe room and limit his contact with people.
If your dog is possessive of toys or treats, or territorial
in certain locations, prevent access and youll prevent
the problem. In an emergency, bribe him with something
better than what he has. For example, if he steals your
shoe, trade him the shoe for a piece of chicken.
Spay or neuter your dog. Intact dogs are more likely to
display dominance, territorial, and protective aggressive
behavior.
What NOT to Do
Punishment wont help and, in fact, will often make
the problem worse. If the aggression is motivated by
fear, punishment will make your dog more fearful,
and therefore more aggressive. Attempting to punish
or dominate a dominant-aggressive dog may actually
lead him to escalate his behavior to retain his dominant
position. This is likely to result in a bite or a severe attack.
Punishing territorial, possessive, or protective aggression
is likely to elicit additional defensive aggression.
Dont encourage aggressive behavior. Playing tug-of-war
or wrestling games encourages your dog to attempt
to best you or win over you, which can lead to
a dominance aggression problem. When dogs are
encouraged to go get em or to bark and dash about
in response to outside noises or the approach of a person,
territorial and protective aggressive behavior may result.

Dealing with a Dominant Dog

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal
behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

Solving Barking Problems

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

F YOU EVER WONDER if your dogs bark is worse than his proverbial
bite, the answer may lie no further than your next-door neighbor. Some
canine behavior problems, such as house soiling, affect only a dogs
family. But problems such as escaping and excessive barking can result in
neighborhood disputes and violations of animal control ordinances, and
that means problems with your pet can soon become people problems.

Learn Why Your Dog Barks

If your dogs talkative nature has created tension
with your neighbors, then its a good idea to discuss the
problem with them. Its perfectly normal and reasonable
for dogs to bark from time to time, just as children make
noise when they play outside. But continual barking
for long periods of time is a symptom of a problem
that needs addressingfrom the perspectives of your
neighbors and your dog.
First, determine when and for how long your dog barks
and what causes him to bark. You may need to do some
clever detective work to obtain this information, especially
if the barking occurs when youre not home. Ask your
neighbors what they see and hear, drive or walk around
the block and watch and listen for a while, or start a tape
recorder or video camera when you leave for work. With
a little effort you should be able to find out which of the
common problems discussed below is the cause of your
dogs barking.

Social Isolation/Frustration/Attention-Seeking
Your dog may be barking out of boredom and loneliness if:
Hes left alone for long periods of time
without opportunities to interact with you.
His environment is relatively barren,
without companions or toys.
Hes a puppy or adolescent (under three years old)
and doesnt have other outlets for his energy.
Hes a particularly active type of dog (like the herding or
sporting breeds) who needs to be occupied to be happy.

Recommendations
Expand your dogs world and increase his people
time in the following ways:
Walk your dog at least twice dailyits good exercise,
both mentally and physically. Walks should be more
than just potty breaks.
Teach your dog to fetch a ball or Frisbee and practice
with him as often as possible.
Teach your dog a few commands or tricks and practice
them every day for five to 10 minutes.
Take a dog training class with your dog. This allows you
and your dog to work together toward a common goal.
To help fill the hours that youre not home, provide
safe, interesting toys to keep your dog busy, such as
Kong-type toys filled with treats or busy-box toys.
Rotating the toys will make them seem new and
interesting.
If your dog is barking to get your attention, make sure
he has sufficient time with you on a daily basis (petting,
grooming, playing, exercising).
Keep your dog inside when youre unable
to supervise him.
Let your neighbors know that you are actively
working on the problem.
If your dog is well socialized and you have your
employers permission, take your dog to work
with you every now and then.
When you have to leave your dog for extended periods
of time, take him to a doggie day care center, hire
a pet sitter or dog walker, or have a trusted friend
or neighbor walk and play with him.
continued on reverse side

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

Territorial/Protective Behavior
Your dog may be barking to guard his territory if:
The barking occurs in the presence of intruders, which
may include the mail carrier, children walking to school,
and other dogs or neighbors in adjacent yards.
Your dogs posture while hes barking appears
threateningtail held high and ears up and forward.
Youve encouraged your dog to be responsive
to people and noises outside.
Recommendations
Teach your dog a quiet command. When he begins
to bark at a passerby, allow two or three barks, then say
quiet and interrupt his barking by shaking a can filled
with pennies or squirting water at his mouth with a spray
bottle or water squirt gun. His surprise should cause him
to stop barking momentarily. While hes quiet, say good
quiet and pop a tasty treat into his mouth. Remember, the
loud noise or water squirt isnt meant to punish him; rather
its to distract him into being quiet so you can reward him.
If your dog is frightened by the noise or squirt bottle, find
an alternative method of interrupting his barking (perhaps
throw a toy or ball near him).
Desensitize your dog to the stimulus that triggers the
barking. Teach him that the people he views as intruders are
actually friends and that good things happen to him when
these people are around. Ask someone to walk by your yard,
starting far enough away so that your dog isnt barking, then
reward quiet behavior and correct responses to a sit or
down command with special treats such as little pieces
of cheese. As the person gradually comes closer, continue
to reward your dogs quiet behavior. It may take several
sessions before the person can come close without your
dog barking. When the person can come very close without
your dog barking, have him feed your dog a treat or throw
a toy for him.
If your dog barks while inside the house when youre home,
call him to you, have him obey a command such as sit
or down, and reward him with praise and a treat. Dont
encourage this type of barking by enticing your dog to bark
at things he hears or sees outside. Remember to pay
attention to your dog when hes being quiet too, so that he
comes to associate such behavior with attention and praise.
Have your dog spayed or neutered to decrease territorial
behavior.

Recommendations
Identify whats frightening your dog and desensitize him to
it. You may need professional help with the desensitization
process. Talk to your veterinarian about anti-anxiety medication while you work on behavior modification. During thunderstorms or other frightening times, mute noise from outside
by leaving your dog in a comfortable area in a basement or
windowless bathroom, and turn on a television, radio, or loud
fan. Block your dogs access to outdoor views that might be
causing a fear response by closing curtains or doors to certain
rooms. Avoid coddling your dog so that he doesnt think that
he is being rewarded for his fearful behavior.

Separation Anxiety
Your dog may be barking due to separation anxiety if:
The barking occurs only when youre gone and starts
as soon as, or shortly after, you leave.
Your dog displays other behaviors that reflect a strong
attachment to you, such as following you from room
to room, greeting you frantically, or reacting anxiously
whenever you prepare to leave.
Your dog has recently experienced a change in the familys
schedule that means hes left alone more often; a move
to a new house; the death or loss of a family member
or another family pet; or a period at an animal shelter
or boarding kennel.
Recommendations
Some cases of separation anxiety can be resolved using
counterconditioning and desensitization techniques.
Successful treatment for some cases may also require
the use of medication prescribed by your veterinarian.
(See our Separation Anxiety fact sheet for more
information.)

Bark Collars

Fears and Phobias

There are several types of bark collars on the market, and

we generally dont recommend them. The main drawback
of any bark collar is that it doesnt address the underlying
cause of the barking. You may be able to eliminate the
barking, but symptom substitution may occur and your dog
may begin digging or escaping, or become destructive or
even aggressive. A bark collar must be used in conjunction
with behavior modification that addresses the reason for
the barking, as outlined above. You should never use a bark
collar on your dog if his barking is due to separation anxiety
or fears or phobias because punishment always makes fear
and anxiety behaviors worse.

Your dogs barking may be a response to something hes

afraid of if:
The barking occurs when hes exposed to loud noises, such
as thunderstorms, firecrackers, or construction noise.
Your dogs posture indicates fearears back, tail held low.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

Crate Training Your Dog

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

F YOU LIKE NOTHING BETTER than coming home from a hard

days work and finding that your dog decided to go on the couch
or use your favorite slippers as a new chew toy, then crate training
isnt for you. But if youre like most people, then using a crate
to properly train your dog will be time well spent.

Crate training takes some time and effort, but it is a proven

way to help train dogs who act inappropriately without
knowing any better. If you have a new dog or puppy, you
can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he
learns all the house ruleslike what he can and cant chew
on and where he can and cant eliminate. A crate is also a
safe way of transporting your dog in the car or taking him
places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you
properly train your dog to use the crate, hell think of it
as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there
when needed.

Selecting a Crate
Crates may be plastic (often called flight kennels) or
collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and
can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dogs
crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and
turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate
that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess
crate space so your dog cant eliminate at one end and
retreat to the other.

The Crate Training Process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on
your dogs age, temperament, and past experiences. Its
important to keep two things in mind while crate training:
The crate should always be associated with something
pleasant, and training should take place in a series of
small steps. Dont go too fast.

Step 1: Introducing Your Dog to the Crate

Place the crate in an area of your house where the family
spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft
blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the

crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure

the crate door is open and secured so that it wont hit
your dog and frighten him.
To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some
small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and
finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all
the way in at first, thats okay; dont force him to enter.
Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will
walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If
he isnt interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in
the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long
as several days.

Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals in the Crate

After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding
him his regular meals near it. This will create a pleasant
association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering
the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all
the way at the back of the crate. If your dog remains
reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside
as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious.
Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further
back in the crate.
Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to
eat his meal, you can close the door while hes eating.
The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he
finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the
door closed a few minutes longer, until hes staying in
the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If he begins
to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length
of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate
for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the
crate, its imperative that you not let him out until he
stops. Otherwise, hell learn that the way to get out
of the crate is to whine, so hell keep doing it.
continued on reverse side

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog to

the Crate for Longer Time Periods
After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with
no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for
short time periods while youre home. Call him over to the
crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter,
such as kennel. Encourage him by pointing to the inside
of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters
the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door.
Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then
go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly
again for a short time, then let him out of the crate.
Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition,
gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the
crate and the length of time youre out of his sight. Once
your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes
with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin
leaving him crated when youre gone for short time periods
or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several
days or several weeks.
Step 4, Part A: Crating Your Dog When Left Alone
After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate
without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving
him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put
him in the crate using your regular command and a treat.
You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the
crate. Youll want to vary at what point in your getting ready
to leave routine you put your dog in the crate. Although
he shouldnt be crated for a long time before you leave,
you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes
prior to leaving.
Dont make your departures emotional and prolonged but
matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for
entering the crate, and then leave quietly. When you return
home, dont reward your dog for excited behavior by
responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep
arrivals low-key to avoid increasing his anxiety. Continue
to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when
youre home so he doesnt associate crating with being
left alone.
Step 4, Part B: Crating Your Dog at Night
Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and
a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in
your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have
a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate
during the night, and youll want to be able to hear your
puppy when he whines to be let outside.

Related topics at www.petsforlife.org

Dog Toys and How to Use Them

Reducing Separation Anxiety in Dogs

This information provided for you by

Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that they

dont associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog
is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near
you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you
prefer, although time spent with your dogeven sleep
timeis a chance to strengthen the bond between you
and your pet.

Potential Problems
Too Much Time in the Crate
A crate isnt a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can
feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated
all day while youre at work and then crated again all night,
hes spending too much time in too small a space. Other
arrangements should be made to meet his physical and
emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six
months of age shouldnt stay in a crate for more than three
or four hours at a time. They cant control their bladders
and bowels for longer periods.
Whining
If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may
be difficult to determine whether hes whining to be let out of
the crate or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If
youve followed the training procedures outlined above, then
your dog hasnt been rewarded for whining in the past by
being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore
the whining. If your dog is just testing you, hell probably
stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate
will only make things worse.

If the whining continues after youve ignored him for several

minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to
eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him
outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not playtime.
If youre convinced that your dog doesnt need to eliminate,
the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining.
Dont give in; if you do, youll teach your dog to whine loud
and long to get what he wants. If youve progressed gradually
through the training steps and havent done too much too fast,
youll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem
becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate
training process over again.
Separation Anxiety
Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety
wont solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from
being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to
escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only
be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization
procedures. You may want to consult a professional animalbehavior specialist.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.
Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Dogs: Destructive
Chewing

OONER OR LATER EVERY DOG LOVER returns home to find

some unexpected damage inflicted by his or her dog ...or, more
specifically, that dogs incisors and molars. Although dogs make great
use of their vision and sense of smell to explore the world, one of their favorite
ways to take in new information is to put their mouths to work.
Fortunately, chewing can be directed onto appropriate items so your dog isnt
destroying items you value or jeopardizing his own safety. Until hes learned
what he can and cant chew, however, you need to manage the situation as much
as possible so he doesnt have the opportunity to chew on unacceptable objects.

Taking Control by Managing the Situation

Take responsibility for your own belongings: If you dont want

it in your dogs mouth, dont make it available. Keep clothing,
shoes, books, trash, eyeglasses, and remote control devices
out of your dogs reach.

Dont confuse your dog by offering him shoes and socks as

toys and then expecting him to distinguish between his shoe
and yours. Your dogs toys should be clearly distinguishable
from household goods.

Until your dog learns the house rules, confine him when
youre unable to keep an eye on him. Choose a safe place
thats dog proof, and provide fresh water and safe toys. If
your dog is crate trained, you may also place him in his crate
for short periods of time.
Give your dog plenty of your time and attention. Your dog
wont know how to behave if you dont teach him alternatives
to inappropriate behavior, and he cant learn these when
hes in the yard by himself.

Play, Boredom, or Social Isolation

Normal play behavior sometimes leads to destruction, as it may
involve digging, chewing, shredding, or shaking objects. Because
dogs investigate objects by pawing at them and exploring them
with their mouths, they may also inadvertently damage items
in their environment. Your dog may be chewing for
entertainment if:

Hes left alone for long periods without opportunities

to interact with you.

His environment is relatively barren, lacking playmates or toys.

Hes a puppy or adolescent (under three years old) and he

doesnt have other outlets for his energy.

Hes a particularly active type of dog (like the herding or

sporting breeds) who needs to be occupied to be happy.

Solutions

Play with your dog daily in a safe, fenced-in area. Playing

fetch is a great way to use up your dogs excess energy
without wearing you out!

If you catch your dog chewing on something he shouldnt,

interrupt the behavior with a loud noise, offer him an
acceptable chew toy instead, and praise him lavishly when
he takes the toy in his mouth.

Go for a walk. Walks should be more than just bathroom

time. On-leash walks are important opportunities for you and
your dog to be together. Allow time for sniffing, exploring,
instruction, and praise.

Have realistic expectations. At some point your dog will

inevitably chew up something you value; this is often part of
the transition to a new home. Your dog needs time to learn
the house rules and you need to remember to take
precautions and keep things out of his reach.

Increase your dogs opportunities for mental stimulation.

Teach your dog a few commands or tricks and practice them
daily. Take a dog training class; not only are they fun, but such
classes teach commands important for your dogs safety and
give you and your dog time to work toward a common goal.

Provide your dog with lots of appropriate toys.

Rotate your dogs toys to refresh his interest in them.

New toys are always more interesting than old ones.

Chewing is normal behavior for curious puppies who may be

teething, but adult dogs may engage in destructive chewing for
any number of reasons. In order to deal with the behavior, you
must first determine why your dog is chewingand remember,
hes not doing it to spite you.

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

continued on reverse side

Try different kinds of toys, but when you introduce a new

toy, keep an eye on your dog to make sure he wont tear
it up and ingest the pieces.

Ignore bad behavior (as much as possible) and reward good

behavior. Remember to reward your dog with praise and
petting when hes playing quietly with appropriate toys.

Consider the various types of toys that can be stuffed with food.
Putting tidbits of food inside chew toys helps your dog focus
on these toys rather than on unacceptable objects.

Make his favorite off-limits chew objects unattractive

or unavailable to him. Use aversives on objects that cannot
be put away.

Make your dogs favorite off-limits chew objects unattractive

to him by covering them with heavy plastic, aluminum foil,
hot pepper sauce, or a commercial anti-chew product.

Consider a good doggie day care program for two or three days
a week to help your dog work off some of his excess energy.

Teach your dog a drop it command, so that when he does pick

up an off-limits object, you can use the command and praise him
for complying. The best way to teach drop it is to practice
exchanging a toy in his possession for a tidbit of food.

Practice the concept of Nothing in Life Is Free with your dog.

This gets your dog in the habit of complying with your commands
and is a good way to make sure he gets lots of positive attention
for doing the right things.

Separation Anxiety
Dogs with separation anxiety tend to display behaviors that reflect a
strong attachment to their owners. This includes following you from
room to room, frantic greetings, and anxious responses whenever
you prepare to leave the house. Factors that can precipitate a
separation anxiety problem include:

A change in the familys schedule that leaves your dog alone

more often.

A move to a new home.

The death or loss of a family member or another family pet.

A period at a shelter or boarding kennel.

Again, remember that these behaviors are not motivated by

spite or revenge, but by anxiety. Punishment will only make the
problem worse. Separation anxiety can be resolved by using
counterconditioning and desensitization techniques.

Fears and Phobias

Your dogs destructive behavior may be a response to something
he fears. Some dogs are afraid of loud noises. Your dogs destructive
behavior may be caused by fear if he tends to be more destructive
when hes exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms,
firecrackers, or construction sounds, and if the primary damage
is to doors, doorframes, window coverings, screens, or walls.

Solutions

Provide a safe place for your dog. Find out where he likes to go
when he feels anxious, then allow access to that space or create
a similar one for him to use when the fear stimulus is present.

Dont comfort your dog when hes behaving fearfully. Try to get
him to play with you or respond to commands he knows and give
him praise and treats when he responds to you rather than the
fear stimulus.

Dont crate your dog unless hes thoroughly crate trained and
considers the crate his safe place. If you put him in a crate to
prevent destruction and hes not crate trained, he may injure
himself or destroy the crate.

Attention-Seeking Behavior
Without realizing it, we often pay more attention to our dogs
when theyre misbehaving. Dogs who dont receive a lot of
attention and reinforcement for appropriate behavior may engage
in destructive behavior when their owners are present as a way
to attract attentioneven if the attention is negative, such
as a verbal scolding.

Solutions

Make sure your dog gets a lot of positive attention every

dayplaytime, walks, grooming, or just petting.

Related topics at www.petsforlife.org

Dog Toys and How to Use Them

Helping Your Dog Overcome Fear of Thunder

and Other Startling Noises

Nothing in Life Is Free: A Training Technique

for Dogs

Reducing Separation Anxiety in Dogs

Using Aversives to Modify Your Dogs Behavior

What NOT to Do
Punishment is rarely effective in resolving destructive behavior
problems and may even make the problem worse. Never discipline
your dog after the fact. If you discover your dog has chewed an
item but dont catch him in the act, its too late to administer a
correction. Your dog doesnt think, I chewed those shoes an hour
ago and thats why Im being scolded now. People often believe
their dog makes this connection because he runs and hides or looks
guilty. But dogs display submissive postures like cowering, running
away, or hiding when they feel threatened by an angry tone of voice,
body posture, or facial expression. Your dog doesnt know what hes
done wrong; he only knows that youre upset. Punishment after the
fact will not only fail to eliminate the undesirable behavior, but may
also provoke other undesirable behaviors.
Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal
behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

How to Stop Your

Dog from Digging

DIG BECAUSE I CAN. Its the motto of dogs everywhere,

and completely normal behavior.

Yet the reasons behind the activity are varied. Your

dog may dig to seek entertainment, attention, comfort,
escape, prey, or protection. (Despite how you might
feel sometimes, your dog wont dig out of spite, revenge,
or a desire to destroy your yard.) And just when you
think youve outsmarted your pooch by finding ways to
make the area where he digs unappealing, your dog will
likely begin digging in other locations or display other
unacceptable behavior, such as chewing or barking.
A more effective approach to the problem is to address
the cause of the digging. Heres advice on how to figure
out why your dog digsand how to stop it.

Seeking Entertainment
Dogs may dig as a form of self-play when they learn
that roots and soil play back. Your dog may be
digging for entertainment if:
Hes left alone in the yard for long periods of time
without opportunities for interaction with you
or others.
His environment is relatively barrenwith
no playmates or toys.
Hes a puppy or adolescent (under three years old)
and doesnt have other outlets for his energy.
Hes the type of dog that is bred to dig as part
of his job (such as a terrier).

Hes a particularly active type of dog who needs an active

job to be happy (such as a herding or sporting breed).
Hes recently seen you playing in the dirt
(gardening or working in the yard).

Recommendations
Expand your dogs world and increase his people time
in the following ways:
Walk your dog at least twice daily. Its good exercise
for both of youmentally and physically!
Teach your dog to fetch a ball or Frisbee, and play
with him as often as possible.
Teach your dog a few commands or tricks. Practice these
commands/tricks every day for five to 10 minutes.
Take a training class with your dog and practice daily
what youve learned.
Keep interesting toys in the yard to keep your dog busy
even when youre not around. Kong-type toys filled with
treats or busy-box dog toys work especially well. Rotate
the toys to make them seem new and interesting.
For dedicated diggers, provide an acceptable digging
area. Choose an area of the yard where its okay for your
dog to dig, and cover that area with loose soil or sand.
If you catch your dog digging in an unacceptable area,
interrupt the behavior with a loud noise and say, No
dig. Then immediately take the dog to his designated
continued on reverse side

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

digging area. When he digs in the approved spot, reward him

with praise. Make the unacceptable digging spots unattractive
(at least temporarily) by setting rocks or chicken wire into the
dirt. Make the acceptable area attractive by burying safe items
for him to discover.

Seeking Prey
Dogs may try to pursue burrowing animals or insects
that live in your yard. Your dog may be pursuing prey if:
The digging is in a specific area instead of at the
boundaries of the yard.
The digging is at the roots of trees or shrubs.
The digging is in a path layout.

Recommendations
Search for possible signs of burrowing animals or insects
and then make your yard unwelcome to them. Avoid
methods that could be toxic or dangerous to your pets or
other animals. For advice on dealing humanely with
wildlife, visit www.wildneighbors.org.

Seeking Comfort or Protection

In hot weather, dogs may dig holes to lie in the cool dirt.
They may also dig to provide themselves with shelter from
cold, wind, or rain, or to try to find water. Your dog may
be digging for comfort or protection if:
The holes are near foundations of buildings, large shade
trees, or a water source.
Your dog doesnt have a shelter or his shelter is exposed
to the hot sun or cold winds.
Your dog is lying in the holes he digs.

Recommendations
Provide your dog with the comfort or protection he seeks:
Provide an insulated doghouse. Make sure it affords
protection from wind and sun.
If your dog still prefers a hole in the ground, try providing
an approved digging area as described above. Make sure
the allowed digging area is in a spot that is protected from
the elements.
Provide plenty of fresh water in a bowl that cant be
tipped over.

Related topics at www.petsforlife.org

The Canine Escape Artist

Using Aversives to Modify Your Dogs Behavior

This information provided for you by

Seeking Attention
Any behavior can become attention-getting behavior if the
dog learns that he receives attention for engaging in it.
(Even punishment is a form of attention.) Your dog may
be digging to get attention if:
He digs in your presence.
His other opportunities for interaction with you are limited.

Recommendations
Dont give your dog attention for digging. Remember,
even punishment is attention.
Make sure your dog has sufficient time with you on a daily
basis. That way, he doesnt have to resort to misbehaving
to get your attention.

Seeking Escape
Dogs may escape to get to something, to get somewhere,
or to get away from something. Your dog may be digging
to escape if:
He digs along the fence line.
He digs under the fence.

Recommendations
Use the following methods to keep your dog in the yard
while you work on the behavior modifications described
in our handout The Canine Escape Artist.
Bury chicken wire at the base of the fence. Be sure
to roll the sharp edges away from your yard.
Place large rocks, partially buried, along the bottom
of the fence line.
Bury the bottom of the fence one to two feet below
the surface.
Lay chain-link fencing on the ground (anchored to the
bottom of the fence) to make it uncomfortable for your
dog to walk near the fence.
Regardless of the Reason for Digging,
We Dont Recommend
Punishment after the fact. This will not address the cause
of the behavior, and in fact it will worsen any digging thats
motivated by fear or anxiety. Punishment may also cause
anxiety in dogs who arent currently fearful.
Staking a dog near a hole hes dug or filling the hole with
water. These techniques address neither the cause of the
behavior nor the act of digging.
Finally, if youve tried all these suggestions and still
cant solve your dogs digging problem, then keep him
indoors with you, and be sure to supervise your dog
during bathroom breaks.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.
Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Dog Toys and

How to Use Them

OR DOGS AND OTHER ANIMAL COMPANIONS, toys are not a luxury,

but a necessity. Toys help fight boredom in dogs left alone, and toys can
even help prevent some problem behaviors from developing.

Although cats can be pretty picky when it comes to enjoying particular

toysignoring a $10 catnip mouse and marveling over a piece of crumpled
newsprintdogs are often more than willing to play with any object they
can get their paws on. That means youll need to be particularly careful when
monitoring your dogs playtime to prevent any unscheduled activities.

Safe Toys
Many factors contribute to the safety or danger of a
toy, and a number of them depend upon your dogs
size, activity level, and preferences. Another factor
is the environment in which your dog spends his time.
Although we cant guarantee your dogs enthusiasm
or his safety with any specific toy, we can offer the
following guidelines.

Be Cautious
The things that are usually most attractive to dogs
are often the very things that are the most dangerous.
Dog-proof your home by safely storing string, ribbon,
rubber bands, childrens toys, pantyhose, and anything
else that could be ingested.
Toys should be appropriate for your dogs size. Balls
and other toys that are too small can easily be swallowed
or become lodged in your dogs throat.
Avoid or alter any toys that arent dog proof by
removing ribbons, strings, eyes, or other parts that

could be chewed or ingested. Discard toys that start to

break into pieces or have pieces torn off. You should also
avoid tug-of-war games with dogs who have dominant
personalities. (Such games between dogs are usually fine.)
Ask your veterinarian which rawhide toys are safe and
which arent. Unless your veterinarian says otherwise,
chewies like hooves, pigs ears, and rawhides should
only be played with under your supervision. Very hard
rubber toys are safer and last longer.
Take note of any toy that contains a squeaker buried in
its center. Your dog may feel that he must find and destroy
the source of the squeaking, and he could ingest itin
which case squeaking objects should also be used under
your supervision.
Check labels for child safety. Look for stuffed toys that are
labeled as safe for children under three years of age and
that dont contain any dangerous fillings. Problem fillings
include things like nutshells and polystyrene beads, but
even safe stuffings arent truly digestible. Remember
that soft toys are not indestructible, but some are sturdier
than others. Soft toys should be machine washable.
continued on reverse side

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

Recommended Toys
Active Toys
Very hard rubber toys, such as Nylabone-type products
and Kong-type products, are available in a variety of shapes
and sizes and are fun for chewing and for carrying around.
Rope toys are usually available in a bone shape
with knotted ends.

Get the Most out of Toys!

Tennis balls make great dog toys, but keep an eye out
for any that could be chewed through, and discard them.
Distraction Toys
Kong-type toys, especially when filled with broken-up
treatsor, even better, a mixture of broken-up treats and
peanut butter-can keep a puppy or dog busy for hours.
Only by chewing diligently can your dog get to the treats,
and then only in small bits. Double-check with your
veterinarian about whether or not you should give peanut
butter to your dog. Be sure to choose a Kong-type toy
of appropriate size for your dog.
Busy-box toys are large rubber cubes with hiding places
for treats. Only by moving the cube around with his nose,
mouth, and paws can your dog get to the goodies.
Comfort Toys
Soft stuffed toys are good for several purposes but arent
appropriate for all dogs. For some dogs, the stuffed toy
should be small enough to carry around. For dogs who
want to shake or kill the toy, the toy should be the size
that prey would be for that size dog (mouse-size, rabbitsize, or duck-size).

Rotate your dogs toys weekly by making only a few toys

available at a time. Keep a variety of types easily accessible.
If your dog has a favorite, like a soft baby, you may
want to leave it out all the time.
Provide toys that offer varietyat least one toy to carry,
one to kill, one to roll, and one to baby.
Hide-and-seek is a fun game for dogs. Found toys are
often much more attractive than a toy which is obviously
introduced. Making an interactive game out of finding toys
or treats is a good rainy-day activity for your dog, using
up energy without the need for a lot of space.
Many of your dogs toys should be interactive. Interactive
play is very important for your dog because he needs
active people timeand such play also enhances the
bond between you and your pet. By focusing on a specific
tasksuch as repeatedly returning a ball, Kong, or
Frisbee, or playing hide-and-seek with treats or toysyour
dog can expel pent-up mental and physical energy
in a limited amount of time and space. This greatly reduces
stress due to confinement, isolation, and boredom. For
young, high-energy, and untrained dogs, interactive play
also offers an opportunity for socialization and helps them
learn about appropriate and inappropriate behavior, such
as jumping up or being mouthy.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

Dirty laundry, such as an old t-shirt, pillowcase, towel, or

blanket, can be very comforting to a dog, especially if the
item smells like you! Be forewarned that the item could
be destroyed by industrious fluffing, carrying, and nosing.

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Dealing with a
Dominant Dog

OR SOME PEOPLE, the phrase top dog isnt just a saying. It actually
describes their dogs. If youve got a dog who likes to boss you (or others)
around, chances are youve got a dominance aggression problem in your
householda problem that could endanger you, your family, and others.

Most dogs assume a neutral or submissive role toward

people, but some dogs will challenge their owners for
dominance. A dominant dog may stare, bark, growl, snap,
or even bite when you give him a command or ask him
to give up a toy, treat, or resting place. Sometimes even
hugging, petting, or grooming can be interpreted as
gestures of dominance and, therefore, provoke a growl
or snapand this is true even though your dog may
still be very affectionate and often solicit petting and
attention from you.
To understand why your dog behaves in these ways,
its important to know some things about canine social
systems. Animals who live in social groups, including
wolves and domestic dogs, establish a social structure
called a dominance hierarchy within their group. This
hierarchy serves to maintain order, reduce conflict, and
promote cooperation among group members. A position
within the dominance hierarchy is established by each
member of the group, based on the outcomes of
interactions between themselves and the other pack
members. The more dominant animals can control access
to valued items such as food, den sites, and mates. For
domestic dogs, valued items might be food, toys, sleeping
or resting places, and attention from their owners.
For your home to be a safe and happy place for pets and
people, its best that the humans in the household assume
the highest positions in the dominance hierarchy,
particularly with dominant dogs.

Is Your Dog Dominant?

You may have a dominance issue with your dog if he:
Resists obeying well-known commands.
Wont move out of your way when required.
Nudges your hand, mouths your arm, or insists on
being petted or played within other words, he
orders you to obey.
Defends food, toys, or other objects from you.
Growls or bares teeth under any circumstances.
Resists handling by you, the veterinarian,
or the groomer.
Gets up on furniture without permission and
wont get down.
Snaps at you.

What to Do If You Recognize Signs

of Dominance in Your Dog
If you recognize the beginning signs of dominance
aggression in your dog, consult an animal-behavior
specialist immediately. Avoid using any form of physical
punishment on your dog. Getting physical with a
dominant dog may cause the dog to intensify his
aggression, posing the risk of injury to you.
If your dog has shown signs of dominance aggression,
take the following precautions to ensure the safety of
your family and others who may encounter your dog:
continued on reverse side

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

Avoid situations that bring out the aggressive behavior.

Back off and use happy talk to relieve the intensity
of situations in which your dog acts aggressively.
Supervise, confine, or restrict your dogs activities
as necessary, especially when children or other pets
are present.
Use a head halter or muzzle to help control your dog
when youre outdoors. Brand names of head halters
include Gentle Leader, Promise Collar, or Halti.
When youre indoors with your dog, control access to
parts of the home by using baby gates or by crating your
dog. You can also use a cage-type muzzle, head halter,
or leash for control purposesbut do so only when
you can closely supervise your dog.

Dominance aggression problems are unlikely to go

away without your taking steps to resolve them. Because
dominant-aggressive dogs can be potentially dangerous,
treatment of dominance aggression problems should
always be supervised by an animal-behavior specialist.

Becoming the Leader of the Pack

Use the following techniquesnone of which requires a
physical confrontation with your dogto help you gain
some control over your dog and establish yourself as the
pack leader:
Spay or neuter your dog to reduce hormonal contributions
to aggression. Understand that after a mature animal has
been spayed or neutered, it may take time for those
hormones to clear from the body. In some cases, longstanding behavior patterns may continue even after the
hormones or other causes no longer exist.
Use a training technique called Nothing in Life Is Free
to establish your leadership in a safe, nonconfrontational
way. This technique requires your dog to work for
everything he gets from you. Have your dog obey at least
one command (such as sit) before you pet him, give him
dinner, put on his leash, or throw him a toy. If your dog
doesnt know any commands or doesnt perform them
reliably, youll first have to teach him, using positive
reinforcement techniques, and practice with him daily.

Related topics at www.petsforlife.org

How to Use a Head Halter

Nothing in Life Is Free: A Training

Technique for Dogs

Positive Reinforcement: Training Your

Dog (or Cat!) with Treats and Praise

(For complete guidance on this technique, see Nothing

in Life Is Free: A Training Technique for Dogs.) You may
need to seek professional help if, after two or three
weeks of working on a command, your dog does
not obey each time you ask.
Dont feed your dog food from the table and
dont allow begging.
Dont play tug-of-war, wrestle, or play roughly
with your dog.
Ignore barking and jumping up.
Dont allow your dog on the furniture or your bed unless
invited to do so by you, because this is a privilege reserved
for leaders. If your dog growls or snaps when you try to
remove him from the furniture, use a treat to lure him off.
Otherwise, try to limit his access to your bed or furniture
by using baby gates or a crate or by closing doors.
Always remember to reward appropriate behavior.
Consult your veterinarian about acupuncture, massage
therapy, or drug therapy. Your veterinarian may prescribe
the temporary use of medication to be used in conjunction
with behavior modification.
Consider enrolling your dog in a training class. This may
help establish a relationship between you and your dog in
which you give commands and he obeys them. Be sure to
choose a trainer who uses positive reinforcement methods.
Understand that obedience classes alone wont necessarily
prevent or reduce dominance aggression.

A Note about Children and Dogs

From your dogs point of view, children, too, have a place in
the dominance hierarchy. Because children are smaller and
get down on the dogs level to play, dogs often consider
them to be playmates rather than superiors. Small children
and dogs should never be left alone together without adult
supervision. Older children should be taught how to play
and interact appropriately and safely with dogs. Under no
circumstances, however, should a child be left alone with
a dog who has displayed signs of aggression.
Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal
behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Unusual Eating Habits

in Dogs and Cats

F YOUR PET HAS AN APPETITE FOR such oddities as socks, rocks, or

even feces, chances are youve wonderedand worriedabout her unusual
eating habits. In this case, your worry may be justified: Not only can your
possessions be destroyed or damaged, but objects such as clothing and rocks
can produce life-threatening blockages in your pets intestines.

Eating non-food items has a name: Its called pica. A

specific type of pica is stool eatingeither the dogs
own or that of another animal. Its called coprophagy.
Rarely seen in cats, coprophagy is fairly common in dogs,
especially those who tend to be highly food-motivated.
And although its not necessarily dangerous to the
animal, it probably is unacceptable to you.

Some experts have suggested that coprophagy is carried

over from the normal parental behavior of ingesting the
waste of young offspring. Others believe that coprophagy
occurs more often in animals who live in relatively barren
environments, are frequently confined to small areas, or
receive limited attention from their owners. Its also
possible that dogs learn this behavior from other dogs.

Why Animals Do This

Because pica and coprophagy are not well understood,

stopping these behaviors may require assistance from an
animal-behavior professional who will work individually
with you and your pet.

The causes of pica and coprophagy are not known. Many

theories have been proposed by various experts, but
none has been proven or disproven. One idea is that such
behaviors may be attention-seeking behaviors. If engaging
in one of these behaviors results in some type of social
interaction between the animal and her ownereven a
verbal scoldingthen the behavior may be reinforced
and occur more frequently.
Others think these behaviors may be attempts to obtain
a necessary nutrient lacking in the diet, although no
nutritional studies have ever substantiated this idea. Pica
and coprophagy may also stem from frustration or anxiety.
Its even possible that the behaviors begin as play; as
the animal investigates and chews on the objects, she
eventually begins to eat or ingest them.

Suggested Solutions for Coprophagy

Because the cause of coprophagy isnt known, no
techniques or solutions are known to be consistently
successful. However, the following techniques may
be effective in resolving the problem.
Treat your pets food with something that causes her
stool to taste bad. A commercial product called 4-BID
is available through your veterinarian. The same result
may be achieved by using the food additive MSG. Based
on owners reports, both of these products work in
many cases, but not all. Before using either of these
products, consult with your veterinarian.
continued on reverse side

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

Give your pets stools a bad taste by sprinkling them

directly with cayenne pepper or a commercial product
such as Bitter Apple. For this method to be effective,
every stool your pet has access to must be treated so
that she learns that eating stools results in something
unpleasant. Otherwise, she may discriminate (using scent)
which stools have been treated and which have not.
Keep your dog on a leash any time you take her outside.
If you see her about to ingest a stool, interrupt her by
clapping your hands, spraying a squirt bottle, or shaking
a can (only for pets who arent afraid of loud noises).
Then immediately give her a toy to play with instead,
and praise her for taking an interest in the toy.
Clean your yard daily to minimize your pets
opportunity to eat her stools.
If your dog eats cat feces from the litter box, install a babygate in front of the litter box area. Your cat shouldnt have
any trouble jumping over it, but your dog likely wont even
make the attempt. Or place the litter box in a closet or
room where the door can be wedged slightly open from
both sides so that your cat has access but your dog doesnt.
Think twice before setting up a booby trap to stop your
dog from eating cat feces from a litter box: If it frightens
your dog, its likely to frighten your cat, too.

Prevent your pets access to these items.

If your pet is highly food-oriented, change her diet to a
low-calorie or high-fiber diet. This may allow her to eat
more food, more often, which may decrease the behavior.
Check with your veterinarian before changing your pets
diet.
If you suspect that anxiety or frustration is the reason for
your animals pica habit, change the behavior by using
behavior modification techniques.
If you catch your pet ingesting items and believe it is to get
attention, startle your pet with a loud noise or a spray of
water. If possible, avoid letting her know that the startling
noise or spray comes from you, and be sure to praise her
when she leaves the items alone. You may want to give her
something acceptable to eat or chew. Try to set aside 1015
minutes twice a day to spend with your pet so that she
doesnt need to resort to pica to get your attention.
If you think your pets pica habit is play behavior, then
keep plenty of toys around for her to play with. Cats
especially like to play with string, rubber bands, and tinsel,
and ultimately ingest them. Keep these items out of reach
and provide a selection of appropriate toys. (See Cat
Toys and How to Use Them and Dog Toys and How
to Use Them.)

Suggested Solutions for Pica

What Doesnt Work:

Pica can be a serious problem because items such as rubber

bands, socks, rocks, and string can severely damage or block
an animals intestines. In some instances, the items must
be surgically removed. Because pica can be potentially lifethreatening, consult both your veterinarian and an animalbehavior professional for help. Here are some other
suggestions.
Make the objects your pet is eating taste unpleasant by
applying cayenne pepper, Bitter Apple, or some other
aversive. (For more information on using aversives, see
Using Aversives to Modify Your Cats Behavior and
Using Aversives to Modify Your Dogs Behavior.)

Related topics at www.petsforlife.org

Cat Toys and How to Use Them

Dog Toys and How to Use Them

Using Aversives to Modify Your Cats Behavior

Using Aversives to Modify Your Dogs Behavior

Interactive punishment (punishment that comes directly

from you, such as verbal scolding) is usually not effective
because it may be interpreted by your pet as attention.
Whats more, many animals learn to refrain from the
problem behavior when their owner is present, yet still
engage in the behavior when their owner is absent.
Punishment after the fact is never helpful. Animals dont
understand that theyre being punished for something they
did hours or even minutes before. This approach wont
resolve the problem and is likely to produce either fearful
or aggressive responses from your pet.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

The Canine Escape Artist

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

OES YOUR DOGS ability to escape from the back yard have
you convinced that hes nothing less than a Hairy Houdini? Your
never-ending attempts to keep your pet confined to your yard may
seem comical at times, but every escape opens up the possibility of tragic
consequences. If your dog is running loose, hes in danger of being hit by a
car, injured in a fight with another dog, or hurt in any number of other ways.
Youre also liable for any damage or injury your dog may cause, and you may
be required to pay a fine if hes picked up by an animal control agency. To
prevent escapes, youll need to find out how your dog is getting out of the
yard and, more importantly, why hes so determined to get out.

Why Dogs Escape

Social Isolation/Frustration
Your dog may be escaping because hes bored
and lonely, especially if:
He is left alone for long periods of time without
opportunities for interaction with you.
His environment is relatively barren, without
playmates or toys.
He is a puppy or adolescent (under three years old)
and doesnt have other outlets for his energy.
He is a particularly active type of dog (like the herding
or sporting breeds) who needs an active job in order
to be happy.
He visits places after each escape that provide him with
interaction and fun things to do. For example, he may
go play with a neighbors dog or visit the local school
yard to play with the children.
Recommendations
We recommend expanding your dogs world and
increasing his people time in the following ways:
Walk your dog daily. Its good exercise, both
mentally and physically (for both of you).
Teach your dog to fetch a ball or Frisbee and
practice with him as often as possible.
Teach your dog a few commands or tricks. Try
to hold a lesson every day for five to 10 minutes.
Take an obedience class with your dog and
practice what youve learned every day.

Provide interesting toys (Kong-type toys filled

with treats or busy-box toys) to keep your dog
busy when youre not home.
Rotate your dogs toys to make them seem new
and interesting.
Keep your dog inside when youre unable to supervise
him. (This will also keep him safe and prevent any
possibility of his being stolen from your yard.)
If you must be away from home for extended periods
of time, take your dog to work with you or to a doggie
day care center, or ask a friend or neighbor to walk
your dog.

Sexual Roaming
Dogs become sexually mature at around six months of
age. Like a teenager first feeling the surge of hormones,
an intact male dog has a strong, natural drive to seek out
females. As you can imagine, it can be difficult to prevent
an intact dog from escaping when his motivation to do
so is very high.
Recommendations
Have your male dog neutered. Studies show that neutering
will decrease sexual roaming in about 90 percent of cases.
If an intact male has established a pattern of escaping, he
may continue to do so even after hes neutered, which is
even more reason to have him neutered as soon as
possible.
Have your female dog spayed. If your intact female dog
escapes your yard while shes in heat, shell probably get
pregnant (and she could be impregnated even if she stays

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

continued on reverse side

in your yard). Millions of unwanted pets are euthanized every

year. Please dont contribute to the pet overpopulation
problem by allowing your female dog to breed indiscriminately.

Fears and Phobias

Your dog may be escaping out of fear, especially if hes
exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms, firecrackers,
or construction sounds.
Recommendations
Identify what is frightening your dog and desensitize him
to it. You may need to seek out the help of a professional
trainer, or talk to your veterinarian about anti-anxiety
medications that might help your dog while you work
on behavior modification.
Keep your dog indoors if theres any chance he may encounter
the fear stimulus outside. You can even mute outside noises
by creating a comfortable spot in a basement or windowless
bathroom and turning on a television, radio, or loud fan.
Provide a safe place for your dog. Observe where he likes
to go when he feels anxious, then allow access to that space,
or create a similar space for him to use when the fear stimulus
is present.

Separation Anxiety
Your dog may be trying to escape due to separation anxiety if:
He escapes as soon as, or shortly after, you leave.
He displays other behaviors that reflect a strong attachment
to you, such as following you around, greeting you wildly,
or reacting anxiously to your preparations to leave.
He remains near your home after hes escaped.

under the fence, chew through the fence, learn to open a

gate, or use any combination of these methods to get out
of the yard. Knowing how your dog gets out will help you
to modify your yard. But until you know why your dog wants
to escape and you can decrease his motivation for doing
so, the recommendations below wont be nearly as effective.
Recommendations for Preventing Escape
For climbing/jumping dogs: Add an extension to your
fence. Its not so important that the extension make the fence
much higher, as long as it tilts inward at about a 45-degree
angle. Be certain there are no structures placed near the
fence, such as a table or chair or dog house, that your dog
could use as a springboard to jump over the fence.
For digging dogs: Bury chicken wire at the base of your
fence (with the sharp edges rolled inward), place large
rocks at the base, or lay chain-link fencing on the ground.
Never chain or otherwise tether your dog to a stationary
object as a means of keeping him confined. Tethering is
not only cruel, but it also leads to aggressive behavior in dogs.

Using Correction
Never correct your dog after hes already left the yard. Dogs
associate punishment with what theyre doing at the time
theyre punished. Punishing your dog after the fact wont
eliminate the escaping behavior, but will probably make
him afraid to come to you.
Never correct your dog if the escaping is related to fear or
is due to separation anxiety. Punishing a fearful response will
only make your dog more afraid and make the problem worse.
In addition, avoid inadvertently reinforcing a fearful behavior
such as by petting a frightened dog and saying, Its okay.

Factors That Can Precipitate

a Separation-Anxiety Problem
Your familys schedule has changed, and that has resulted
in your dog being left alone more often.
Your family has recently moved to a new house.
Your family has experienced the death or loss of a family
member or another family pet.
Your dog has recently spent time at an animal shelter
or boarding kennel.

Only correct your dog if you can administer correction at the

moment your dog is escaping and only if he doesnt associate
the correction with you. If you can squirt him with a hose
or make a loud noise as he is going over, under, or through
the fence, it might be unpleasant enough that he wont
want to do it again. If he realizes that you made the noise
or squirted the water, however, hell simply refrain from
escaping when youre around. This type of correction is
difficult to administer effectively and wont resolve the
problem if used by itself.

Recommendations
Assuming your dog has been correctly diagnosed as suffering
from separation anxiety, the problem can be resolved using
counterconditioning and desensitization techniques.

You must also give your dog less reason to escape and make
it more difficult for him to do so. Ultimately, that is how
youll put a permanent stop to that Hairy Houdini act.

How Dogs Escape

Some dogs jump fences, but most actually climb them, using
some part of the fence to push off from. A dog may also dig

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Helping Your Dog

Overcome Fear of Thunder
and Other Startling Noises

HILE A GOOD KRAACK OR BOOM may have been good

while Batman was taking down the Joker, such startling sounds
are no joke for your dog. Firecrackers, thunder, and other loud,
unexpected sounds often leave dogs frightened and wanting to flee
to a safer place. These types of fears may develop even though your dog
has had no traumatic experiences associated with the sound. The good
news is that many fear-related problems can be successfully resolved. If left
untreated, however, your dogs fearful behavior will probably get worse.

The most common behavior problems associated with fear

of loud noises are destruction and escaping. When your
dog becomes frightened, she tries to reduce her fear. She
may try to escape to a place where the sounds of thunder
or firecrackers are less intense. If she feels less afraid by
leaving the yard or going into a certain room or area of the
house, then the escape or destructive behavior is reinforced
because it successfully lessens her fear. For some dogs, just
the activity or physical exertion associated with one of these
behaviors may be an outlet for their anxiety. Unfortunately,
escape or destructive behavior can be a problem for you
and could also result in physical injury to your dog.

What You Can Do to Help

Your dog may also begin to associate a particular startling

noise with other things in her environment, and she may
grow afraid of these other things because she associates
them with the loud noise that frightens her. For example,
dogs who are afraid of thunder may later become afraid
of the wind, dark clouds, and flashes of light that often
precede the sound of thunder. Dogs who do not like the
sound of firecrackers may become fearful of the children
who have the firecrackers or may become afraid to go in
the backyard, if thats where they usually hear the noise.

You can also create a hidey-hole that is dark, small, and

shielded from the frightening sound as much as possible.
Encourage her to go there when youre home and the
thunder or other noise occurs. Consider using a fan or
radio near the spot to help block out the sound. Feed her
in that location and help your dog associate that spot with
other good things happening to her there. She must be
able to come and go from this location freely. Confining her
in the hidey-hole when she doesnt want to be there will
only cause more problems.

Create a Safe Place

Try to create a safe place for your dog to go to when
she hears the noises that frighten her. But remember,
this must be a safe location from her perspective, not
yours. Notice where she goes, or tries to go, when shes
frightened, and if at all possible, give her access to that
place. If shes trying to get inside the house, consider
installing a dog door. If shes trying to get under your
bed, give her access to your bedroom.

continued on reverse side

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

The safe place approach may work with some dogs, but not
all. Some dogs are motivated to move and be active when
frightened and hiding out wont help them feel less fearful.

Distract Your Dog

This method works best when your dog is just beginning
to get anxious. Encourage her to engage in any activity
that captures her attention and distracts her from behaving
fearfully. Start when she first alerts you to the noise and is
not yet showing a lot of fearful behavior, but is only watchful.
Immediately try to interest her in doing something that she
enjoys. Get out the tennis ball and play fetch (in an escapeproof area), or practice some commands that she knows.
Reward her with praise and treats for paying attention
to the game or the commands.
As the storm or other noise builds, you may not be able to keep
her attention on the activity, but it might delay the start of the
fearful behavior for longer periods each time you do it. If you
cant keep her attention and she begins acting fearfully, stop
the process. If you continue, you may inadvertently reinforce
her fearful behavior.

For some fears, it can be difficult to re-create the fear stimulus.

For example, thunder is accompanied by lightning, rain, and
changes in barometric pressure; your dogs fearful response
may be to the combination of these things and not just the
thunder. You may need professional assistance to create and
implement this kind of behavior modification program.

Consult Your Veterinarian

Medication may help reduce your dogs anxiety levels for
short time periods. Your veterinarian is the only person who
is qualified and licensed to prescribe medication for your
dog. Dont attempt to give your dog any over-the-counter or
prescription medication without consulting your veterinarian.
Animals dont respond to drugs the same way people do, and
a medication that may be safe for humans could be fatal to
your dog. Drug therapy alone wont reduce fears and phobias
permanently, but in extreme cases, behavior modification and
medication used together might be the best approach.

What Not to Do

Behavior Modification
Behavior modification techniques are often successful in
reducing fears and phobias. The appropriate techniques
are called counterconditioning and desensitization.
These techniques condition or teach your dog to respond
in nonfearful ways to sounds and other stimuli that have
previously frightened her.
These techniques must be implemented very gradually.
Begin by exposing your dog to an intensity level of noise that
doesnt frighten her and pairing the noise with something
pleasant, like a treat or a fun game. Gradually increase the
volume as you continue to offer her something pleasant.
Through this process, shell come to associate good things
with the previously feared sound.

Heres an Example of How to Do This

Make a tape with firecracker noises on it.
Play the tape at such a low volume that your dog doesnt
respond fearfully. While the tape is playing, feed her
dinner, give her a treat, or play her favorite game.
In your next session, play the tape a little louder while
you feed her or play her favorite game.
Continue increasing the volume through many sessions over
a period of several weeks or months. If she displays fearful
behavior at any time while the tape is playing, STOP. Begin
your next session at a lower volume, one that doesnt
produce anxiety, and proceed more slowly.
If these techniques arent used correctly, they wont
be successful and can even make the problem worse.

This information provided for you by

Do not attempt to reassure your dog when she is afraid.

This may only reinforce her fearful behavior. If you pet,
soothe, or give her treats when shes behaving fearfully,
she may interpret this as a reward for her fearful behavior.
Instead, try to behave normally, as if you dont notice
her fearfulness.
Do not put your dog in a crate to prevent her from being
destructive during a thunderstorm. Shell still be fearful
when shes in the crate and is likely to injure herself,
perhaps even severely, while attempting to get out
of the crate.
Do not punish your dog for being afraid. Punishment
will only make her more fearful.
Do not try to force your dog to experience or be close
to the sound that frightens her. For example, making
her stay close to a group of children who are lighting
firecrackers will only make her more afraid and could
cause her to become aggressive in an attempt to escape
from the situation.

These approaches will fail because they wont decrease

your dogs fear. Merely trying to prevent her from escaping
or being destructive wont work, either. If your dog is still
afraid, shell continue to show that fear in whatever way
she canwhether by digging, jumping, climbing, chewing,
barking, or howling. Finally, know that formal training
wont make your dog less afraid of thunder or other noises,
although it could help boost her general confidence.

Animal-Behavior Specialist
If your dog has severe fears and phobias and youre unable
to achieve success with the techniques outlined here, you
should consult with an animal-behavior specialist and your
veterinarian.
Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at
the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. 2000 Dumb Friends League
and 2003 The HSUS. All rights reserved.
Promoting the Protection of All Animals

Calming the Fearful Dog

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

EAR COMES IN ALL SHAPES AND SIZES, especially for your furry,
four-pawed friend. Whether in response to a stranger or startling noise,
your dog may display certain body postures, including lowering his head,
flattening his ears back against his head, and tucking his tail between his legs
if hes scared.

A frightened dog may also pant, salivate, tremble, pace,

or try to escape. He may show submissive behaviors
avoiding eye contact, urinating submissively, or rolling
over to expose his bellyor he may freeze and remain
immobile. Some dogs will bark or growl at the feared
object. In extreme cases of fearfulness, a dog may be
destructive (out of general anxiety or in an attempt to
escape), or he may lose control of his bladder or bowels.

step in dealing with your dogs fearful behavior is to

identify what triggers his fear. Is he afraid of startling
noises? Is he afraid of being left alone? If your dogs fears
are rooted in either of these scenarios, see our related
tip sheets on these topics. Most fears can be treated using
desensitization and counterconditioning techniques,
which require time and patience. You may need help
from a professional animal-behavior specialist with
these techniques.

Causes of Fearful Behavior

Determining why your dog is fearful is helpful but not
always essential to treating the fearful behavior, although
the reason for his fear will dictate the relative success
of the treatment. A dog who is genetically predisposed
to general fearfulness, or a dog who was improperly
socialized during a critical stage in his development, will
probably not respond as well to treatment as a dog who
has developed a fear in response to a specific experience.
Its essential, however, to first rule out any medical causes
for your dogs fearful behavior. Your first step should be
to take your dog to your veterinarian for a thorough
medical evaluation.

What You Can Do

Most fears wont go away by themselves and, if left
untreated, may get worse. Some fears, when treated, will
decrease in intensity or frequency but may not disappear
entirely. After youve ruled out medical causes, your first

How to Use the Desensitization Technique

Begin by exposing your dog to a very low level or small

amount of whatever is causing his fear. For example, if
he is afraid of bicycles, start with a bicycle placed at a
distance of 100 feet from your dog.
Reward him for calm, nonfearful behavior in the
presence of the bicycle. Gradually move the bicycle
closer to him. As long as your dog remains relaxed,
reward him with treats and praise. If at any point he
becomes anxious, move the bicycle further away and
proceed at a slower pace.
When your dog can remain relaxed in the presence
of a stationary bicycle, move the bicycle 100 feet away
again, but have someone ride it slowly by him. Again,
gradually increase the proximity of the slowly moving
bicycle, rewarding your dog for remaining calm and
relaxed. Repeat this procedure as many times as

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continued on reverse side

necessary, gradually increasing the speed of the moving

bicycle.
This process may take several days, weeks, or even
months. You must proceed at a slow enough pace that
your dog never becomes fearful during the desensitization
process. If you move too quickly, you wont be successful.

How to Use the Counterconditioning Technique

Counterconditioning works best when used in conjunction
with desensitization and involves pairing the fear stimulus
(for example, a moving bicycle) with an activity or behavior
incompatible with the fear behavior (for example, the dog
remaining in the sit position).
Using the desensitization technique example described
previously, while your dog is exposed to the bicycle, ask
him to perform some obedience exercises, such as sit
and down. Reward him for obeying and continue to have
him obey commands as the bicycle is moved closer to him.
If your dog doesnt know any commands, teach him a few
using treats and praise. Dont ever use punishment, collar
corrections, or scolding to teach him the commands, as
the point of counterconditioning is for him to associate
pleasant things with the stimulus that now frightens him.

Realistic Expectations
Some of the things that frighten dogs can be difficult to
reproduce or control. For example, if your dog is afraid
of thunderstorms, he may be responding to other things
that occur during the storm, such as smells, barometric
pressure changes, or changes in natural light. During
the desensitization process, it is impossible for you to
reproduce all of these factors. Another example would be
if your dog is afraid of men. You may work at desensitizing
him, but if a man lives in your household and your dog
is constantly exposed to him, this can disrupt the gradual
process of desensitization. You need to be patient with
your dog and work hard not to become frustrated during
the desensitization process.

Related topics at www.petsforlife.org

Helping Your Dog Overcome Fear of

Thunder and Other Startling Noises

Reducing Separation Anxiety in Dogs

Understanding Aggressive Behavior

in Dogs

When to Get Help

Because desensitization and counterconditioning can
be difficult techniques to master, and because behavior
problems may increase if these techniques are done
incorrectly, you may want to get professional, in-home
help from an animal-behavior specialist. Keep in mind that
a fearful dog who feels trapped or is pushed too far may
become aggressive. Some dogs will respond aggressively
to whatever it is that frightens them. If your dog displays any
aggressive behavior, such as growling, snarling, snapping, or
baring his teeth, stop all behavior modification procedures
and seek professional help from an animal-behavior
specialist as soon as possible.

Consult with Your Veterinarian

Medication may help reduce your dogs anxiety levels for
short time periods. Your veterinarian is the only person who
is qualified and licensed to prescribe medication for your
dog. Dont attempt to give your dog any over-the-counter
or prescription medication without consulting with your
veterinarian. Animals dont respond to drugs the same
way people do, and a medication that may be safe for
humans could be fatal to your dog. Drug therapy alone
wont reduce fears and phobias permanently, but in
extreme cases, behavior modification and medication
used together may be the best approach.

What Not to Do

Do not punish your dog for being afraid. Punishment

will only make him more fearful.
Do not try to force your dog to experience the object or
situation that is causing him to be afraid. For example, if
he is afraid of bicycles and you force him to stand in place
while bicycles whiz by, hell probably become more fearful
of bicycles rather than less fearful.
Never punish your dog after the fact for destruction or
house soiling caused by anxiety or fear. Animals dont
understand punishment after the fact, even if its only
seconds later. This kind of destruction or house soiling
is the result of panic, not misbehavior. Punishment will
do more harm than good.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Housetraining
Your Puppy

ONTRARY TO popular belief, housetraining a puppy requires far

more than a few stacks of old newspapersit calls for vigilance,
patience, and plenty of commitment. By following the procedures
outlined below, you can minimize house soiling incidents, but virtually every
puppy will have an accident in the house, and more likely, several. Expect
thisits part of raising a puppy. The more consistent you are in following
the basic housetraining procedures, however, the faster your puppy will
learn acceptable behavior. It may take several weeks to housetrain your
puppy, and with some of the smaller breeds, it might take longer.

Establish a Routine
Like babies, puppies do best on a regular schedule.
Take your puppy outside frequentlyat least every
two hoursand immediately after he wakes up from
a nap, after playing, and after eating or drinking.
Praise your puppy lavishly every time he eliminates
outdoorsyou can even give him a treatbut remember
to do so immediately after hes finished eliminating, not
after he comes back inside the house. This step is vital,
because rewarding your dog for eliminating outdoors
is the only way hell know whats expected of him.
Pick a bathroom spot near the door, and always take your
puppy to that spot using a leash. Take him out for a longer
walk or some playtime only after he has eliminated. If
you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled
rags or paper towels and leave them in the bathroom spot.
The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the
place he is supposed to eliminate. While your puppy is
eliminating, use a word or phrase like go potty that
you can eventually use before he eliminates to remind
him what to do.
Put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule and feed
him a high-quality diet to make housetraining easier.

Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed

three or four times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same
times each day will make it more likely that hell eliminate
at consistent times as well, and that makes housetraining
easier for both of you.

Keep Your Eyes Peeled

Dont give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house;
keep an eye on him whenever hes indoors. You can tether
him to you with a six-foot leash, or use baby gates to keep
him in the room where you are. Watch for signs that he
needs to eliminate, like sniffing around or circling. When
you see these signs, immediately grab the leash and take
him outside to his bathroom spot. If he eliminates,
praise him lavishly and reward him with a treat.

Confinement
When youre unable to watch your puppy at all times,
he should be confined to an area small enough that he
wont want to eliminate there. The space should be just
big enough for him to comfortably stand, lie down, and
turn around in. You can use a portion of a bathroom
or laundry room blocked off with baby gates. Or you
may want to crate train your puppy and use the crate
to confine him. (Be sure to learn how to use a crate
continued on reverse side

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

humanely as a method of confinement.) If your puppy

has spent several hours in confinement, youll need to
take him directly to his bathroom spot as soon as you
let him out, and praise him when he eliminates.

Oops!
Expect your puppy to have a few accidents in the house
its a normal part of housetraining. Heres what to do when
that happens:
When you catch him in the act of eliminating in the house,
do something to interrupt him, like make a startling noise
(be careful not to scare him). Immediately take him to his
bathroom spot, praise him, and give him a treat if he
finishes eliminating there.
Dont punish your puppy for eliminating in the house.
If you find a soiled area, its too late to administer a
correction. Just clean it up. Rubbing your puppys nose
in it, taking him to the spot and scolding him, or any other
punishment will only make him afraid of you or afraid
to eliminate in your presence. In fact, punishment will
often do more harm than good.
Cleaning the soiled area is very important because puppies
are highly motivated to continue soiling in areas that smell
like urine or feces.
Its extremely important that you use the supervision and
confinement procedures outlined above to prevent the
number of accidents. If you allow your puppy to eliminate
frequently in the house, hell get confused about where
hes supposed to eliminate, which will prolong the
housetraining process.

Paper Training
A puppy under six months of age cannot be expected to
control his bladder for more than a few hours at a time. If
you have to be away from home more than four or five hours
a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy;
instead, you may want to consider an older dog, who can
wait for your return.
But if youre already committed to having a puppy and
must be away for long periods of time, youll need to make
arrangements for someone, such as a responsible neighbor
or a professional pet sitter, to take him outside to eliminate.

Related topics at www.petsforlife.org

Crate Training Your Dog

Or youll need to train him to eliminate in a specific place

indoors. Be aware, however, that doing so can prolong the
process of housetraining. Teaching your puppy to eliminate
on newspaper may create a lifelong surface preference,
meaning that even as an adult he may eliminate on any
newspaper lying around the living room.
When your puppy must be left alone for long periods
of time, confine him to an area with enough room for a
sleeping space, a playing space, and a separate place to
eliminate. In the area designated as the elimination area,
use either newspapers or a sod box. To make a sod box,
place sod in a container such as a childs small plastic
swimming pool. You can also find dog litter products at
a pet supply store. If you clean up an accident in the house,
put the soiled rags or paper towels in the designated
elimination area. The smell will help your puppy recognize
the area as the place where he is supposed to eliminate.

Other Types of House Soiling Problems

If youve consistently followed the housetraining procedures
and your puppy continues to eliminate in the house, there
may be another reason for his behavior.
Medical Problems: House soiling can often be caused
by physical problems such as a urinary tract infection
or a parasite infection. Check with your veterinarian
to rule out any possibility of disease or illness.
Submissive/Excitement Urination: Some dogs, especially
young ones, temporarily lose control of their bladders
when they become excited or feel threatened. This usually
occurs during greetings or periods of intense play or when
theyre about to be punished.
Territorial Urine-Marking: Dogs sometimes deposit small
amounts of urine or feces to scent-mark their territory.
Both male and female dogs do this, and it most often
occurs when they believe their territory has been invaded.
Separation Anxiety: Dogs who become anxious when
theyre left alone may house soil as a result. Usually, there
are other symptoms as well, such as destructive behavior
or vocalization.
Fears or Phobias: When animals become frightened, they
may lose control of their bladder or bowels. If your puppy
is afraid of loud noises such as thunderstorms or fireworks,
he may house soil when hes exposed to these sounds.
Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal
behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

How to Use
a Head Halter

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

HOA, ROVER, WHOA! Sound familiar? If thats what its like

when you take your dog for a walk, you may want to consider
getting a head halter.

A head halter is a special kind of collar designed for dogs

who like to pull their people when they walk. It consists
of a strap that goes around your dogs nose and another
strap that goes around his neck, just behind his ears.
The leash fastens to the halter under the dogs chin to
a ring thats also attached to the nose strap. When your
dog begins to pull, the design of the head halter causes
his nose to be turned down and back toward you, which
makes it physically difficult for him to continue pulling.

nosepiece should be adjusted so that when your dogs

mouth is closed, the nosepiece can slide down to where
the skin begins on his nosebut not so loose that it
can slide off the end of his nose. The nosepiece will
sit naturally, just below your dogs eyes. Make sure
that the metal ring to which the leash attaches is
underneath his chin.

The head halter is a humane method of restraint because

it doesnt cause any pain. It works much better to stop
a dog from pulling than a choke chain or prong collar.
Some brand names of head halters include Gentle
Leader, Promise Collar, and Halti.

Most dogs will resist a head halter at first. The amount

of resistance varies for each dog. When you first put the
head halter on, your dog may try to get it off by pawing
at his nose or rubbing his nose on the ground, on you,
or on anything he can get close to. The best strategy is to
keep his head up and keep him moving by using positive
verbal reinforcement and treats. Most dogs eventually
accept head halters. When your dog associates the halter
with going for a walk, hell begin to react positively to
it, and soon both you and your dog will enjoy taking
walks together!

How Should It Fit?

The head halter must be fitted properly to be effective and
comfortable for your dog. The neck strap should be as
high up on your dogs neck as you can get it, just behind
his ears. The strap should be just tight enough for you
to fit one finger between it and your dogs neck. The

How Will Your Dog React?

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

continued on reverse side

Things to Remember

Make sure the head halter is fitted properly.

Fit the halter so that it is snug around your dogs neck
and high behind his ears, but loose enough around
his nose so that the nose strap can slide easily down
to the fleshy part of his nose.
Dont confuse the head halter with a muzzle.
Keep in mind that a dog wearing a head halter can
still eat, drink, pant, bark, and bite, if he chooses.
Never use a hard jerk with the head halter.
Never use the head halter with a retractable lead.
Be sure your dog doesnt run quickly to the end of
the lead; if he does, he may give himself a hard jerk.

Outfit your dog with the head halter only during

on-leash walks with you or when youre directly
supervising him.
Dont allow your dog to wear the head halter around
the house; hell have plenty of time to work at getting
it off and will eventually succeed.
Read the information sheet that comes with your
head halter.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

Related topics at www.petsforlife.org

Positive Reinforcement: Training Your Dog

(or Cat!) with Treats and Praise

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Introducing Your New Dog

to Your Resident Dog

ROM THE LEADER OF THE PACK to the top dog, plenty of

simplistic metaphors come from the canine world. But relationships
between canines can be pretty complex, beginning with the very first
meeting. Like most animals who live in groups, dogs establish their own social
structure, sometimes called a dominance hierarchy. This dominance hierarchy
serves to maintain order, reduce conflict, and promote cooperation among
pack members. Dogs also establish territories, which they may defend against
intruders or rivals. Obviously, dogs social and territorial nature affects their
behavior whenever a new dog is introduced to the household.

Introduction Techniques
Choose a Neutral Location
Introduce the dogs in a neutral location so that your
resident dog is less likely to view the newcomer as a
territorial intruder. Each dog should be handled by a
separate person. With both dogs on leashes, begin the
introductions in an area unfamiliar to each, such as a
park or a neighbors yard. If you frequently walk your
resident dog in a nearby park, she may view that area
as her territory, too, so choose a less familiar site. If you
are adopting your dog from an animal shelter, you
might even bring your resident dog to the local shelter
and introduce the two there.

Use Positive Reinforcement

From the first meeting, help both dogs experience good
things when theyre in each others presence. Let them
sniff each other briefly, which is normal canine greeting
behavior. As they do, talk to them in a happy, friendly tone
of voice; never use a threatening tone. (Dont allow them
to investigate and sniff each other for too long, however,
as this may escalate to an aggressive response.) After a

short time, get the attention of both dogs and give each a
treat in return for obeying a simple command, such as
sit or stay. Take the dogs for a walk and let them sniff
and investigate each other at intervals. Continue with the
happy talk, food rewards, and simple commands.

Be Aware of Body Postures

One body posture that indicates things are going well is a
play-bow. One dog will crouch with her front legs on the
ground and her hind end in the air. This is an invitation to
play, and a posture that usually elicits friendly behavior
from the other dog. Watch carefully for body postures that
indicate an aggressive response, including hair standing
up on one dogs back, teeth baring, deep growls, a stifflegged gait, or a prolonged stare. If you see such postures,
interrupt the interaction immediately by calmly getting
each dog interested in something else. For example, both
handlers can call their dogs to them, have them sit or lie
down, and reward each with a treat. The dogs interest
in the treats should prevent the situation from escalating
into aggression. Try letting the dogs interact again, but
this time for a shorter time period and/or at a greater
distance from each other.

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

continued on reverse side

Take the Dogs Home

Introducing Puppies to Adult Dogs

When the dogs seem to be tolerating each others presence

without fearful or aggressive responses and the investigative
greeting behaviors have tapered off, you can take them
home. Whether you choose to take them in the same vehicle
will depend on their size, how well they ride in the car, how
trouble-free the initial introduction has been, and how many
dogs are involved.

If you have more than one resident dog in your household,

it may be best to introduce the resident dogs to the new dog
one at a time. Two or more resident dogs may have a
tendency to gang up on the newcomer.

Puppies usually pester adult dogs unmercifully. Before the

age of four months, puppies may not recognize subtle body
postures from adult dogs signaling that theyve had enough.
Well-socialized adult dogs with good temperaments may set
limits with puppies with a warning growl or snarl. These
behaviors are normal and should be allowed. Adult dogs
who arent well socialized, or who have a history of fighting
with other dogs, may attempt to set limits with more
aggressive behaviors, such as biting, which could harm the
puppy. For this reason, a puppy shouldnt be left alone with
an adult dog until youre confident the puppy isnt in any
danger. Be sure to give the adult dog some quiet time away
from the puppy and some extra individual attention as well.

Support the Top Dog

When to Get Help

It is important to support the dominant dog in your

household, even if that turns out to be the newcomer. This
may mean, for example, allowing the dominant dog to claim
a favored sleeping spot as his or to have access to a desirable
toy. Trying to impose your preference for which dog should
be dominant can confuse the dogs and create further
problems.

If the introductions dont go smoothly, contact a professional

animal behaviorist immediately. Dogs can be severely injured
in fights, and the longer the problem continues, the harder it
can be to resolve. Punishment wont work and could make
things worse. Fortunately, most conflicts between dogs in the
same family can be resolved with professional guidance.

Space Your Introductions

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

Positive Reinforcement
BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Training Your Dog (or Cat!)

with Treats and Praise

E ALL LIKE TO BE PRAISED rather than punished. The

same is true for your pet, and thats the theory behind positive
reinforcement. Positive reinforcement means giving your pet
something pleasant or rewarding immediately after she does something
you want her to do. Because your praise or reward makes her more likely
to repeat that behavior in the future, it is one of your most powerful tools
for shaping or changing your pets behavior.

Correct timing is essential when using positive

reinforcement. The reward must occur immediately
within secondsor your pet may not associate it with
the proper action. For example, if you have your dog
sit but reward her after shes already stood back up,
shell think shes being rewarded for standing up.
Consistency is also essential. Everyone in the family
should use the same commands. It might help to post
these where everyone can become familiar with them.
The most commonly used commands for dogs are:
Sit
Stay
Down (which means lie down)
Off (which means get off of me
or get off the furniture)
Stand
Come
Heel (or lets go or with me)
Leave it
Settle
Watch me

Consistency means always rewarding the desired

behavior and never rewarding undesired behavior.

Using Positive Reinforcement

For your pet, positive reinforcement may include food
treats, praise, petting, or a favorite toy or game. Food
treats work especially well for training your dog. A treat
should be enticing and irresistible to your pet. It should
be a very small, soft piece of food, so that she will
immediately gulp it down and look to you for more. If
you give her something she has to chew or that breaks
into bits and falls on the floor, shell be looking around
the floor, not at you. Small pieces of soft commercial
treats, hot dogs, cheese, or cooked chicken or beef have
all proven successful. Experiment to see what works best
for your pet. You can carry the treats in a pocket or fanny
pack. Each time you use a food reward, you should
couple it with a verbal reward (praise). Say something
like, Good dog, in a positive, happy tone of voice.
Some pets may not be interested in food treats. For those
pets, the reward could be in the form of a toy or brief play.

continued on reverse side

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

When your pet is learning a new behavior, she should be

rewarded every time she does the behavior, which means
continuous reinforcement. It may be necessary to use a
technique called shaping with your pet, which means
reinforcing something close to the desired response and
then gradually requiring more from your dog before she
gets the treat. For example, if youre teaching your dog
to shake hands, you may initially reward her for lifting
her paw off the ground, then for lifting it higher, then
for touching your hand, then for letting you hold her
paw, and finally, for actually shaking hands with you.
Intermittent reinforcement can be used once your pet has
reliably learned the behavior. At first, reward her with the
treat three out of every four times she does the behavior.
Then, over time, reward her about half the time, then about
a third of the time, and so on, until youre only rewarding
her occasionally with the treat. Continue to praise her every
timealthough once your dog has learned the behavior,
your praise can be less effusive, such as a quiet, but positive,
Good dog. Use a variable schedule of reinforcement so that
she doesnt catch on that she only has to respond every other
time. Your pet will soon learn that if she keeps responding,
eventually shell get what she wantsyour praise and an
occasional treat.
By understanding reinforcement, youll see that youre not
forever bound to carry a pocketful of goodies. Your dog will
soon be working for your verbal praise, because she really
does want to please you and knows that, occasionally, shell
get a treat, too. There are many small opportunities to
reinforce her behavior. You may have her sit before letting
her out the door (which helps prevent door-darting), before
petting her (which helps prevent jumping up on people),
or before feeding her. Give her a pat or a Good dog for
lying quietly by your feet, or slip a treat into a Kong-type
toy when shes chewing it instead of your shoe.

effective, punishment must be delivered while your pet

is engaged in the undesirable behaviorin other words,
caught in the act. If the punishment is delivered too
late, even seconds later, your pet will not associate the
punishment with the undesired behavior.
Punishment delivered by you may erode your dogs trust.
Thats why punishment is most effective when it does not
come directly from you. For example, after your dog acts
in an undesirable way, use a shake can, an air horn, or keys
but dont draw attention to the fact that the noise comes
from you. If your dog perceives her environment, instead
of you, to be delivering the punishment, shell be more likely
to avoid the behavior even when youre not around.
In addition, if youre too late in administering it, punishment
will seem unpredictable to your dog. Shes likely to become
fearful, distrustful, or aggressive, which will only lead to
more behavior problems. What we humans often interpret
as guilty looks are actually submissive postures by our
pets. Animals dont have a moral sense of right and wrong,
but they are adept at associating your presence, and the
presence of a mess, with punishment.
If youve tried punishment and it hasnt worked, you should
stop using punishment and use only positive reinforcement.
And never use physical punishment that involves some level
of discomfort or pain, which may cause your pet to bite to
defend herself. Holding the neck skin and shaking your dog
or performing alpha rolls (forcing your dog onto her back
and pinning her on the floor) are both likely to result in
bites. And punishment might be associated with other
stimuli, including people, that are present at the time the
punishment occurs. For example, a pet who is punished
for getting too close to a small child may become fearful of,
or aggressive toward, that childor toward other children.
Thats why physical punishment is not only bad for your
pet, its also bad for you and others.

The Pros and Cons of Punishment

Punishment can be verbal, postural, or physical, and it means
giving your pet something unpleasant immediately after she
does something you dont want her to do. The punishment
makes it less likely that the behavior will occur again. To be

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

Related topics at www.petsforlife.org

Nothing in Life Is Free: A Training Technique for Dogs

Positive ReinforcementTraining Your Cat

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Understanding Your
Puppys Behavior
and Development

ELL-SOCIALIZED DOGS ARE MORE LIKELY to have well-socialized

puppies. Pups often mirror their mothers calm or fearful attitude
toward people; this is a normal part of their socialization. But you
can play a vital role, too, by petting, talking, and playing with puppy to help
him develop good people skills.

Puppies are usually weaned at six to seven weeks, but are

still learning important skills as their mother gradually
leaves them for longer periods of time. Ideally, puppies
should stay with their littermates (or other role-model
dogs) for at least 12 weeks.

Stages of Puppy Development:

Puppies separated from their littermates too early often

fail to develop appropriate social skills, such as learning
how to send and receive signals, what an inhibited bite
(acceptable mouthing pressure) means, how far to go in
play-wrestling, and so forth. Play is important for puppies
because it increases their physical coordination, social
skills, and learning limits. By interacting with their mother
and littermates, puppies explore the ranking process
(whos in charge) and also learn how to be a dog.

24 Weeks: Transitional Period

Puppy is most influenced by his mother and littermates.
Eyes open, teeth begin to come in, and senses
of hearing and smell develop.
Puppy begins to stand, walk a little, wag tail, and bark.
By the fourth or fifth week, eyesight is well-developed.

Skills not acquired during the first eight weeks may

be lost forever. While these stages are important and
fairly consistent, a dogs mind remains receptive to
new experiences and lessons well beyond puppyhood.
Most dogs are still puppies, in mind and body, through
the first two years of life.

02 Weeks: Neonatal Period

Puppy is most influenced by his mother.
Senses of touch and taste are present at birth.

312 Weeks: Socialization Period

During this period, puppy needs opportunities
to meet other dogs and people.
By three to five weeks, puppy becomes aware of his
surroundings, companions (both canine and human),
and relationships, including play.
By four to six weeks, puppy is most influenced
by littermates and is learning about being a dog.

continued on reverse side

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

From four to 12 weeks, puppy remains influenced by

littermates and is also influenced by people. Puppy learns
to play, develops social skills, learns the inhibited bite,
explores social structure/ranking, and improves physical
coordination.
By five to seven weeks, puppy develops curiosity and
explores new experiences. Puppy needs positive people
experiences during this time.
By seven to nine weeks, puppy is refining his physical
skills and coordination, and can begin to be housetrained.
Puppy has full use of senses.
By eight to 10 weeks, puppy experiences real fear
involving normal objects and experiences; puppy needs
positive training during this time.
By nine to 12 weeks, puppy is refining reactions,
developing social skills with littermates (appropriate
interactions), and exploring the environment and objects.
Puppy begins to focus on people; this is a good time
to begin formal training.

36 Months: Ranking Period

Puppy is most influenced by playmates, who
may now include those of other species.
Puppy begins to see and use ranking (dominance
and submission) within the household (the puppys
pack), including humans.
Puppy begins teething (and associated chewing).
At four months of age, puppy experiences
another fear stage.
618 Months: Adolescence
Puppy is most influenced by human and dog
pack members.
At seven to nine months, puppy goes through a
second chewing phase, part of exploring territory.
Puppy increases exploration of dominance,
including challenging humans.
If not spayed or neutered, puppy experiences beginnings
of sexual behavior. (Spaying or neutering your puppy at
an early age will likely increase the health benefits of
the surgery and increase his lifespan.)

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Dealing with Normal

Puppy Behavior
Chewing

HOEVER THOUGHT THAT RAISING A CHILD is the toughest thing

to do may not have raised a puppy. After all, at least babies can wear
diapers! Much like infants and toddlers, though, puppies explore their
world by putting things in their mouths. Puppies are teething until theyre
about six months old, which usually creates some discomfort. Chewing not
only facilitates teething, but also makes sore gums feel better.

Puppies may chew on furniture, shoes, shrubbery, and

other objects. These are normal puppy behaviors, but
they can still create problems for you. Unfortunately,
unlike children, puppies wont magically outgrow
these behaviors as they mature. Instead, you must
shape your puppys behaviors and teach him which
ones are acceptable and which arent.

Discouraging Unacceptable Behaviors

Its virtually inevitable that your puppy will, at some point,
chew up something you value. This is part of raising a
puppy! You can, however, prevent most problems by
taking the following precautions.
Minimize chewing problems by puppy-proofing your
house. Put the trash out of reachinside a cabinet or
outside on the porchor buy containers with locking
lids. Encourage children to pick up their toys and dont
leave socks, shoes, eyeglasses, briefcases, or TV remote
controls lying around within your puppys reach.
If, and only if, you catch your puppy chewing on
something he shouldnt, interrupt the behavior with
a loud noise, then offer him an acceptable chew toy
instead. Praise him lavishly when he takes the toy
in his mouth.

Make unacceptable chew items unpleasant to your

puppy. Furniture and other items can be coated with
a taste deterrent (such as Bitter Apple) to make them
unappealing. (See Using Aversives to Modify Your
Dogs Behavior.)
Dont give your puppy objects to play withsuch
as old socks, old shoes, or old childrens toysthat
closely resemble items that are off-limits. Puppies
cant tell the difference.
Closely supervise your puppy. Dont give him the
chance to go off by himself and get into trouble.
Use baby gates, close doors, or tether him to you with
a six-foot leash so that you can keep an eye on him.
When you must be gone from your home or you cant
actively supervise your puppy, confine him to a small,
safe area such as a laundry room. You might also
consider crate training your puppy. (See Crate Training
Your Dog.) Puppies under six months of age shouldnt
be crated for longer than three or four hours at a time
because they may not be able to control their bladders
and bowels longer than that.
Make sure your puppy is getting adequate physical
activity. Puppies (and dogs) left alone in a yard dont
play by themselves. Take your puppy for walks or play
a game of fetch with him for both mental and physical
exercise.
continued on reverse side

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Give your puppy plenty of people time. He can only

learn the rules of your home when hes with you.

Encouraging Acceptable Behavior

Provide your puppy with lots of appropriate toys.

(See Dog Toys and How to Use Them.)
Rotate your puppys toys. Puppies are often more
interested in unfamiliar or novel objects. Put out
a few for several days, then pick those up and put
out different ones.
Experiment with different kinds of toys. When you
introduce a new toy to your puppy, watch him to
make sure he wont tear it up and ingest the pieces.
Consider the various types of toys that can be stuffed
with food. Putting tidbits of food inside chew toys
focuses your puppys chewing activities on those toys
instead of on unacceptable objects.
If your puppy is teething, try freezing a wet washcloth
for him to chew on.

What Not to Do
Never discipline or punish your puppy after the fact. If you
discover a chewed item even minutes after hes chewed
it, youre too late. Animals associate correction with what
theyre doing at the time theyre being corrected. A puppy
cant reason that, I tore up those shoes an hour ago and
thats why Im being scolded now. Some people believe
this is what a puppy is thinking because he runs and hides
or because he looks guilty.
In reality, guilty looks are actually canine submissive
postures that dogs show when theyre threatened. When
youre angry and upset, your puppy feels threatened by your
tone of voice, body postures, and facial expressions, so he
may hide or show submissive postures. Punishment after the
fact will not only fail to eliminate the undesirable behavior,
but could provoke other undesirable behaviors as well.
A puppy has a lot to learn in his new home. Be patient and
consistent when training your new puppy and youll share
a special bond for years to come.

Other Reasons for Destructive Behavior

In most cases, destructive chewing by puppies is nothing
more than normal puppy behavior. Occasionally, however,
puppieslike adult dogscan exhibit destructive behaviors
for specific reasons. Examples include separation anxiety,
fear-related behaviors, and attention-getting behaviors. For
help with these problems, contact a professional animal
behaviorist.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

Related topics at www.petsforlife.org

Crate Training Your Dog

Dog Toys and How to Use Them

Using Aversives to Modify Your Dogs Behavior

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Dealing with Normal

Puppy Behavior
Nipping and Rough Play

TS NOT ALWAYS EASY TO CONVINCE A NEW PUPPY not to bite the

hand that feeds himpets himor plays with him, for that matter. When
puppies play with each other, they use their mouths, so they may also be
inclined to bite or mouth your hand during play or when being petted. This
is rarely aggressive behavior meant to do harm, but it is a difficult habit to break
unless you encourage your puppy to try an acceptable alternative behavior. The
goal is to redirect your puppys energy onto acceptable chew toys and to teach
her to be gentle when a hand is in or near her mouth.

Encourage Acceptable Behavior

Jumping Up

Redirect your puppys penchant for nipping and biting by

offering her more acceptable objects (such as chew toys)
whenever you pet her. This technique can be especially
effective when children want to pet her. As you or the
child reaches out to scratch her behind the ears with
one hand, offer the chew toy with the other. This will not
only help your puppy learn that people and petting are
wonderful, but will also keep her mouth busy while shes
being petted. Alternate which hand does the petting and
which one has the chew toy. You may need to start off
by petting or scratching your puppy for short periods
of time, since the longer shes petted, the more likely
she is to get excited and start to nip.

When your puppy jumps up on you, she wants attention.

Even if you push her away, she is still getting attention
(even if it is a response that you might consider negative).

Discourage Unacceptable Behavior

You must also teach your puppy to be gentle with
hands and show her that nipping results in unpleasant
consequences. Teach your puppy that nipping turns off
any attention and social interaction with you. As soon as
a nip occurs, look your puppy right in the eye and yell
OUCH as though youve been mortally wounded. Then
ignore her. Leave the room if you must, but ignore her
until shes calm, and then try the chew toy and petting
method again.

When Your Puppy Jumps Up:

Fold your arms in front of you, turn away from her,
and say off.
Continue to turn away from her until all four paws
are on the ground, then quietly praise her and give
her a treat. If she knows the sit command, give the
command when all four paws are on the ground, then
quietly praise her and give her a treat while shes in
the sitting position.
If she begins to jump while youre praising her,
simply turn away and repeat the second step,
above. Remember to keep your praise low-key.
When your puppy realizes that she gets no attention from
you while shes jumping up, but does get attention when
she sits, shell stop jumping up. Remember, once youve
taught her to come and sit quietly for attention, you must
reward her behavior. Be careful not to ignore her when
she comes and sits politely, waiting for your attention.

For complete tips and advice on pet behavior and other pet care topics, visit www.petsforlife.org.

continued on reverse side

What Not to Do

Be Consistent

Attempts to tap, slap, or hit your puppy in the face for

nipping or jumping up are almost guaranteed to backfire.
Several things may happen, depending on your puppys
temperament and the severity of the correction:
She could become hand-shy and cringe or cower
whenever a hand comes toward her face.
She could become afraid of you and refuse to come
to you or approach you at all.
She could respond in a defensive manner and attempt
to bite you to defend herself.
She could interpret a mild slap as an invitation to play,
causing her to become more excited and even more
likely to nip.

Its important that all behaviors, acceptable and

unacceptable, be managed consistently by all family
members. And remember that any method you try will
probably not be effective unless you work hard to teach
your puppy an acceptable alternative behavior.

Never play tug-of-war or wrestling games with your puppy

if youre having a nipping problem. These types of games
encourage out-of-control behavior, grabbing, lunging, and
competition with youbehaviors you dont want her to
learn.

A Note about Children and Puppies

Its very difficult for children under eight or nine years old
to practice the kind of behavior modification outlined here.
Childrens first reaction to being nipped or mouthed by
a puppy is to push the puppy away with their hands and
arms. This will be interpreted by the puppy as play and
will probably cause the puppy to nip and mouth even
more. Adults should closely monitor all interactions
between their children and dogs.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

Related topics at www.petsforlife.org

Selecting the Right Pet for Your Kids

and Making the Introduction

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Removing Pet
Stains and Odors

OU KNOW HOW IT GOES: The minute you turn your back, your pet
decides that your new carpet is the perfect place to relieve himself. You
clean and clean, but you cant get rid of that smell. What can you do?

Well, for starters, you need to find which areas are soiled
and then retrain your pet to avoid eliminating in those
areas. And to do that, youll have to clean those areas, and
clean them well. Here are the steps youll need to take:
Find all soiled areas using your nose and eyes. A blacklight bulb will usually show even old urine stains. Turn
out all lights in the room, use the black light to identify
soiled areas, and lightly outline the areas with chalk.
Black lights can be purchased at home supply stores.
Clean the soiled areas appropriately to remove
the odors.
Rule out medical causes for the behavior
by visiting your veterinarian.
Figure out why your pet is urinating or defecating in
inappropriate areas. (For help, see our tips sheets
Solving Litter Box Problems, Housetraining Your
Puppy, and Reducing Urine-Marking Behavior in
Dogs and Cats. These tips sheets can be found
at www.petsforlife.org.)
Make the areas unattractive or unavailable.
(For help, see our tip sheets on dog aversives
and cat aversives. These tips sheets can be found
at www.petsforlife.org.)
Make the appropriate bathroom area attractive.
(For help, see our tips sheets Positive Reinforcement:
Training Your Dog (or Cat!) with Treats and Praise,
Housetraining Your Puppy, and Solving Litter Box
Problems. These tips sheets can be found
at www.petsforlife.org.)

Teach your pet the appropriate place to eliminate

by using positive reinforcement techniques.
To be successful, you need to follow all these steps. If
you fail to completely clean the area, your retraining
efforts will be useless. As long as your pet can smell his
personal scent, hell continue to return to the accident
zone. Even if you cant smell traces of urine, your pet
can. Your most important chore is to remove
(neutralize) that odor with the following steps.

To Clean Washable Items

Machine wash as usual, adding a one-pound box of baking
soda to your regular detergent. Its best to air dry these
items if possible.
If you can still see the stain or smell the urine, machine
wash the item again and add an enzymatic cleaner
(available at pet supply stores) that breaks down petwaste odors. Be sure to follow the directions carefully.
If your pet urinates or defecates on the sheets or blankets
on a bed, cover the bed with a vinyl, flannel-backed
tablecloth when you begin the retraining period.
Its machine washable, inexpensive, and unattractive
to your pet.

To Clean Carpeted Areas and Upholstery

For new stains, those that are still wet, soak up as much of
the urine as possible with a combination of newspaper and
paper towels. The more fresh urine you can remove before
it dries, especially from carpet, the easier it will be to
continued on reverse side

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remove the odor. Place a thick layer of paper towels on the

wet spot and cover that with a thick layer of newspaper. If
possible, put newspaper under the soiled area as well. Stand
on this padding for about a minute. Remove the padding and
repeat the process until the area is barely damp.
If possible, put the fresh, urine-soaked paper towel in the
area where it belongsyour cats litter box or your dogs
designated outdoor bathroom area. This will help remind
your pet that eliminating isnt a bad behavior as long
as its done in the right place.
Rinse the accident zone thoroughly with clean, cool
water. After rinsing, remove as much of the water as
possible by blotting or by using a wet vac.
For Stains That Have Already Set
To remove all traces of heavy stains in carpeting, consider
renting an extractor or wet vac from a local hardware store.
This machine operates much like a vacuum cleaner and is
efficient and economical. Extracting/wet vac machines do the
best job of forcing clean water through your carpet and then
forcing the dirty water back out again. When using these
machines or cleaners, be sure to follow the instructions
carefully. Dont use any chemicals with these machines;
they work much more effectively with plain water.
Once the area is really clean, use a high-quality pet odor
neutralizer available at pet supply stores. Be sure to read
and follow the cleaners directions for use, including testing
the cleaner on a small, hidden portion of fabric first to
be sure it doesnt stain.
If the area still looks stained after its completely dry from
extracting and neutralizing, try any good carpet stain remover.
Avoid using steam cleaners to clean urine odors from carpet
or upholstery. The heat will permanently set the stain and
the odor by bonding the protein into any man-made fibers.
Avoid using cleaning chemicals, especially those with
strong odors such as ammonia or vinegar. From your pets
perspective, these dont effectively eliminate or cover the

Related topics at www.petsforlife.org

Housetraining Your Puppy

Positive Reinforcement: Training Your Dog

or Cat with Treats and Praise

Reducing Urine-Marking Behavior in Dogs and Cats

Solving Litter Box Problems

Using Aversives to Modify Your Cats Behavior

Using Aversives to Modify Your Dogs Behavior

urine odor and may actually encourage your pet to reinforce

the urine scent mark in that area.
If youve previously used cleaners or chemicals of any kind
on the area, then neutralizing cleaners wont be effective
until youve rinsed every trace of the old cleaner from the
carpet. Even if you havent used chemicals recently, any
trace of a non-protein-based substance will weaken the
effect of the enzymatic cleaner. The cleaner will use up
its energy on the old cleaners instead of on the protein
stains you want removed.
If urine has soaked down into the padding underneath your
carpet, your job will be more difficult. In some cases, you
may need to take the drastic step of removing and replacing
that portion of the carpet and padding.

To Clean Floors and Walls

If the wood on your furniture, walls, baseboard, or floor
is discolored, the varnish or paint has reacted to the acid
in the urine. You may need to remove and replace the layer
of varnish or paint. If you do so, make sure the new product
is safe for pets. Employees at your local hardware or home
improvement store can help you identify and match your
needs with appropriate removers and replacements.
Washable enamel paints and some washable wallpapers
may respond favorably to enzymatic cleaners. Read the
instructions carefully before using these products and
test them in an invisible area.

Retrain Your Pet

Finally, in conjunction with cleaning, be sure to teach
your pet where you want him to eliminate. To do this,
make the accident zone unattractive and the appropriate
bathroom area attractive, and see our related tip sheets at
www.petsforlife.org. The retraining period may take a week
or more. Remember, it took time to build the bad habit,
and it will take time to replace that habit with a new, more
acceptable behavior. Treat your pet with patience
and give him lots of encouragement!

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Reducing Separation
Anxiety in Dogs

VERYONE NEEDS A LITTLE TIME ALONE NOW AND THEN

unless of course you are a dog who suffers from separation anxiety.
Dogs with separation anxiety exhibit behavior problems when theyre
left alone. Typically, theyll have a dramatic anxiety response within a short
time (2045 minutes) after their owners leave them. The most common
of these behaviors are:

Digging, chewing, and scratching at doors or windows

in an attempt to escape and reunite with their owners
Howling, barking, and crying in an attempt to get their
owners to return
Urination and defecation (even with housetrained dogs)
as a result of distress

Why Do Dogs Suffer from Separation Anxiety?

We dont fully understand why some dogs suffer from
separation anxiety and, under similar circumstances, others
dont. Its important to realize, however, that the destruction
and house soiling that often occur with separation anxiety
are not the dogs attempt to punish or seek revenge on
his owner for leaving him alone. In reality, they are part
of a panic response.

Separation Anxiety Sometimes Occurs:

When a dog accustomed to constant human
companionship is left alone for the first time
Following a long interval, such as a vacation, during
which the owner and dog are constantly together
After a traumatic event (from the dogs point of view), such
as a period of time spent at a shelter or boarding kennel
After a change in the familys routine or structure (such as
a child leaving for college, a change in work schedule, a
move to a new home, or a new pet or person in the home)

How Do I Know If My Dog Has Separation Anxiety?

Because there are many reasons for the behaviors associated
with separation anxiety, its essential to correctly diagnose
the reason for the behavior before proceeding with
treatment. If most, or all, of the following statements
are true about your dog, he may have a separation
anxiety problem:

The behavior occurs exclusively or primarily

when hes left alone.
He follows you from room to room whenever
youre home.
He displays effusive, frantic greeting behaviors.
The behavior always occurs when hes left alone,
whether for a short or long period of time.
He reacts with excitement, depression, or anxiety
to your preparations to leave the house.
He dislikes spending time outdoors by himself.

What to Do If Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety

For a minor separation anxiety problem, the following
techniques may be helpful by themselves. For more severe
problems, these techniques should be used along with the
desensitization process described in the next section.
Keep arrivals and departures low-key. For example,
when you arrive home, ignore your dog for the first
few minutes, then calmly pet him. This may be hard
for you to do, but its important!
Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like
yousuch as an old t-shirt that youve slept in recently.
Establish a safety cuea word or action that you use
every time you leave that tells your dog youll be back.
Dogs usually learn to associate certain cues with short
absences by their owners. For example, when you take
out the garbage, your dog knows you come right back
and doesnt become anxious. Therefore, its helpful to
associate a safety cue with your short-duration absences.
Some examples of safety cues are a playing radio, a playing
television, or a toy (one that doesnt have dangerous fillings
and cant be torn into pieces). Use your safety cue during
practice sessions with your dog. Be sure to avoid presenting
your dog with the safety cue when you leave for a period
continued on reverse side

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of time longer than he can tolerate; if you do, the value of the
safety cue will be lost. Leaving a radio on to provide company
for your dog isnt particularly useful by itself, but a playing
radio may work if youve used it consistently as a safety cue
in your practice sessions. If your dog engages in destructive
chewing as part of his separation distress, offering him a
chewing item as a safety cue is a good idea. Very hard rubber
toys that can be stuffed with treats and Nylabone-like
products are good choices.

Desensitization Techniques for More

Severe Cases of Separation Anxiety
The primary treatment for more severe cases of separation
anxiety is a systematic process of getting your dog used to
being alone. You must teach your dog to remain calm during
practice departures and short absences. We recommend
the following procedure:
Begin by engaging in your normal departure activities
(getting your keys, putting on your coat), then sit back
down. Repeat this step until your dog shows no distress
in response to your activities.
Next, engage in your normal departure activities and
go to the door and open it, then sit back down.
Next, step outside the door, leaving the door open,
then return.
Finally, step outside, close the door, then immediately return.
Slowly get your dog accustomed to being alone with the
door closed between you for several seconds.
Proceed very gradually from step to step, repeating each step
until your dog shows no signs of distress. The number of
repetitions will vary depending on the severity of the problem.
If at any time in this process your actions produce an anxiety
response in your dog, youve proceeded too fast. Return to
an earlier step in the process and practice this step until the
dog shows no distress response, then proceed to the next step.
Once your dog is tolerating your being on the other side
of the door for several seconds, begin short-duration
absences. This step involves giving the dog a verbal cue (for
example, Ill be back), leaving, and then returning within
a minute. Your return must be low-key: Either ignore your
dog or greet him quietly and calmly. If he shows no signs
of distress, repeat the exercise. If he appears anxious, wait
until he relaxes to repeat the exercise. Gradually increase
the length of time youre gone.
Practice as many absences as possible that last less than 10
minutes. You can do many departures within one session
if your dog relaxes sufficiently between departures. You
should also scatter practice departures and short-duration
absences throughout the day.
Once your dog can handle short absences (3090 minutes),
hell usually be able to handle longer intervals alone, and
you wont have to repeat this process every time you are

This information provided for you by

planning a longer absence. The hard part is at the beginning,

but the job gets easier as you go along. Nevertheless, you must
go slowly at first. How long it takes to condition your dog to
being alone depends on the severity of his problem.

Teaching the Sit-Stay and Down-Stay

Another technique for reducing separation anxiety in your
dog is practicing the common sit-stay or down-stay training
exercises using positive reinforcement. Your goal is to be able
to move briefly out of your dogs sight while he remains in the
stay position and thereby teach your dog that he can remain
calmly and happily in one place while you go to another. To do
this, you gradually increase the distance you move away from
your dog. As you progress, you can do this during the course
of your normal daily activities. For example, if youre watching
television with your dog by your side and you get up for a
snack, tell him to stay, and leave the room. When you come
back, give him a treat or praise him quietly. Never punish
your dog during these training sessions.

Interim Solutions
Because the treatments described above can take a while,
and because a dog with separation anxiety can do serious
damage to himself or your home in the interim, consider these
suggestions to help you and your dog cope in the short term.
Consult your veterinarian about the possibility of drug
therapy. A good anti-anxiety drug should not sedate your
dog, but simply reduce his anxiety while youre gone. Such
medication is a temporary measure and should be used
in conjunction with behavior modification techniques.
Take your dog to a dog day care facility or boarding kennel.
Leave your dog with a friend, family member, or neighbor.
Take your dog to work with you, even for half a day, if possible.

What Wont Help a Separation Anxiety Problem

Punishing your dog. Punishment is not an effective way to

treat separation anxiety. In fact, punishing your dog after you
return home may actually increase his separation anxiety.
Getting another pet as a companion for your dog. This
usually doesnt help an anxious dog because his anxiety
is the result of his separation from you, his person, not
merely the result of being alone.
Crating your dog. Your dog will still engage in anxiety
responses in the crate. He may urinate, defecate, howl, or
even injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate.
Leaving the radio on (unless the radio is used as a safety
cue, as described above).
Training your dog. While formal training is always a good
idea, it wont directly help a separation anxiety problem.
Separation anxiety is not the result of disobedience or
lack of training; its a panic response.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.
Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Dealing with Submissive

and Excitement Urination

OST PET OWNERS APPRECIATE an enthusiastic welcome

from their dogs at the end of the day. But their pleasure can be
substantially lessened when their dogs wiggles of delight are
coupled with a puddle of urine requiring cleanup. Your dog may have
passed his housetraining with flying colors yet still not be able to control
his bladder in certain situations. Submissive and excitement urination are
not housetraining problems; they are involuntary reflexes that require
patience and specific training methods to correct.

Submissive Urination

Your Dog May Have a Submissive Urination Problem If:

With one second left in the championship game, the

basketball player has to make one free throw to send the
game into overtime and keep her teams hopes for victory
alive. A hush comes over the arena while beads of sweat
roll down her face. Its the first time shes been in this
situation. She shoots the balland it clangs off the rim

Just as an athlete may make a mistake when her

confidence wanes in a daunting situation, so too may a
dog. A dog who is threatened and lacks confidence may
urinate out of submission. He may also urinate when
hes being punished or verbally scolded, or when hes
approached by someone he perceives to be a threat.

And just as the athlete will gain confidence as she plays

in more high-pressure situations, your dogs submissive
urination may resolve itself as he gains confidence.
You can help to build his confidence by teaching him
commands and rewarding him for obeying. You should
also gradually expose him to new people and new
situations and try to make sure all his new experiences
are positive and happy.

He urinates when hes being scolded.

He urinates when someone approaches him.
He urinates when hes being greeted.
He has a history of being treated roughly or being
punished long after he has displayed unwanted
behaviors.
He is a somewhat shy, anxious, or timid dog.
He urinates while making submissive postures,
such as crouching, tail tucking, or rolling over
and exposing his belly.

What to Do If Your Dog Has

a Submissive Urination Problem

Take your dog to the veterinarian to rule

out medical reasons for the behavior.
Keep greetings low-key.
Encourage and reward confident postures
(sitting, standing) from him.
Give him an alternative to behaving submissively.
For example, if he knows a few commands, have
him sit or shake as you approach, and reward
him for obeying.
continued on reverse side

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Avoid approaching him with postures that he reads

as dominant. To do this:
Avoid direct eye contact. Look at his back
or tail instead.
Get down on his level by bending at the knees
rather than leaning over from the waist. Ask
others to approach him in the same way.
Pet him under the chin rather than on top
of the head.
Approach him from the side, rather than from
the front, or present the side of your body to
him, rather than your full front.
Dont punish or scold him. This will only make
the problem worse.

Excitement Urination
Excitement urination occurs most often during greetings and
playtime and is not accompanied by submissive posturing.
Excitement urination usually resolves on its own as a dog
matures. In some cases, however, the problem can persist
if the dog is frequently punished or if the dogs behavior
is inadvertently reinforcedsuch as by petting or talking
to your dog in a soothing or coddling tone after he
urinates when excited.

Your Dog May Have an Excitement Urination Problem If:

He urinates when excited, such as during greetings

or playtime.
He urinates when excited and is less than one year old.

What to Do If Your Dog Has

an Excitement Urination Problem

Take your dog to the veterinarian to rule out medical

reasons for the behavior.
To avoid accidents, play outdoors until the problem
is resolved.
Dont punish or scold him.
Keep greetings low-key.
When hes excited, ignore him until hes calm.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal

behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.

This information provided for you by

Promoting the Protection of All Animals

BEHAVIOR
SERIES

Reducing Urine-Marking
Behavior in Dogs and Cats

UCH LIKE THE MINERS DURING THE GOLD RUSH, dogs and
cats are territorial animals. They stake a claim to a particular space,
area, or object. They let other people and animals know about their
claim by marking it using a variety of methods at different levels of intensity.
For example, a dog may bark to drive away what he perceives to be intruders
in his territory. A cat may mark a valued object by rubbing her head against it.

Some pets may go to the extreme of urinating or

defecating to mark a particular area as their own.
Urine-marking is not a house soiling problem. Instead,
it is considered territorial behavior. Therefore, to resolve
the problem, you need to address the underlying reason
for your pets need to mark his territory in this way.
Before this can be done, however, take your pet to
the veterinarian to rule out any medical causes for
his behavior.

House Soiling or Urine-Marking:

How to Tell the Difference

Your Pet May Be Urine-Marking If

The problem is primarily urination. Dogs and

cats rarely mark with feces.
The amount of urine is small and is found primarily
on vertical surfaces. (Dogs and cats do sometimes
mark on horizontal surfaces.) Leg-lifting and spraying
are dominant versions of urine-marking, but even if
your pet doesnt assume these postures, he may still
be urine-marking.
Any pet in your home is not spayed or neutered. Intact
males and females are both more likely to urine-mark

than are spayed or neutered animals. However, even

spayed or neutered animals may mark in response
to other intact animals in the home.
Your pet urinates on new objects in the environment
(a shopping bag, a visitors purse), on objects that
have unfamiliar smells, or on objects that have
another animals scent.
Your pet has conflicts with other animals in your home.
When theres instability in the pack hierarchy, a dog may
feel a need to establish his dominance by urine-marking
his territory. If one cat is intimidating another cat, the
bullied cat may express his anxiety by urine-marking.
Your pet has contact with other animals outside your
home. A cat who is allowed outdoors may come home
and mark after having an encounter with another cat
outside. If your pet sees another animal through a door
or window, he may feel a need to mark his territory.
Your dog marks frequently when you walk him.

What You Can Do

Spay or neuter your pet as soon as possible. Spaying or

neutering your pet may stop urine-marking altogether.
However, if he has been urine-marking for a long time,
a pattern may already be established.
continued on reverse side

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Resolve conflicts between animals in your home. (For

help, see Canine Rivalry and Feline Social Behavior
and Aggression between Family Cats.)
Restrict your pets access to doors and windows through
which he can observe animals outside. If this isnt possible,
discourage the presence of other animals near your house.
(See Discouraging Free-Roaming Cats.)
Keep your cat indoors. Hell be safer, live longer, and
feel less need to mark his territory.
Clean soiled areas thoroughly. (See Successful Cleaning to
Remove Pet Odors and Stains.) Dont use strong-smelling
cleaners because they may cause your pet to over-mark
the spot.
Make previously soiled areas inaccessible or unattractive.
(See Aversives for Dogs and Aversives for Cats.) If this
isnt possible, try to change the significance of those areas
to your pet. Feed, treat, and play with your pet in the areas
he is inclined to mark.
Keep objects likely to cause marking out of reach. Items
such as guests belongings and new purchases should
be placed in a closet or cabinet.
If your pet is marking in response to a new resident in
your home (such as a roommate or spouse), have the new
resident make friends with your pet by feeding, grooming,
and playing with him. If you have a new baby, make sure
good things happen to your pet when the baby is around.
(See Preparing Your Pet for Babys Arrival.)
For dogs: Watch your dog when he is indoors for signs
that he is thinking about urinating. When he begins to
urinate, interrupt him with a loud noise and take him
outside. If he urinates outside, praise him and give him
a treat. When youre unable to watch him, put your dog
in confinement (a crate or small room where he has
never marked) or tether him to you with a leash.

Related topics at www.petsforlife.org

Aversives for Cats

Aversives for Dogs

Canine Rivalry

Discouraging Roaming Cats

Feline Social Behavior and Aggression

between Family Cats

Nothing in Life Is Free

Preparing Your Pet for Babys Arrival

Successful Cleaning to Remove Pet Odors

and Stains

This information provided for you by

For dogs: Practice nothing in life is free with your

dog. (See Nothing in Life Is Free.) This is a safe, nonconfrontational way to establish your leadership and
requires your dog to work for everything he wants from
you. Have your dog obey at least one command (such
as sit) before you pet him, give him dinner, put on
his leash, or throw him a toy. Establishing yourself as
a strong leader can help stabilize the hierarchy and
thus diminish your dogs need to mark his territory.
For cats: Try to monitor your cats movements. If he
sniffs in an area he has previously marked, interrupt
him with a loud noise or squirt him with water. Its
best if you can do this without him seeing you. That
way, hell associate the unpleasantness with his
intent to mark, rather than with you.

What Not to Do
Dont punish your pet after the fact. Punishment
administered even a minute after the event is ineffective
because your pet wont understand why he is being
punished.

Pets Arent People

Dogs and cats dont urinate or defecate out of spite or
jealousy. If your dog urinates on your babys diaper bag,
its not because he is jealous of, or dislikes, your baby.
The unfamiliar scents and sounds of a new baby in the
home are simply causing him to reaffirm his claim on
his territory. Likewise, if your cat urinates on your new
boyfriends backpack, it does not reflect his opinion of
your taste in men. Instead, he has perceived the presence
of an intruder and is letting the intruder know that
this territory belongs to him.

Dominance or Anxiety?
Urine-marking is usually associated with dominance
behavior. Some pets, though, may mark when they feel
anxious or upset. For example, a new baby in the home
brings new sounds, smells, and people, as well as changes
in routine. Your dog or cat probably isnt getting as much
attention as he was used to getting. All of these changes
cause him to feel anxious, which may cause him to mark.
Likewise, a pet who is generally anxious may become
more so by the presence of roaming neighborhood
animals in your yard or by the introduction of a new cat
or dog into your household. If your pet is feeling anxious,
you might consider talking to your veterinarian about
medications to reduce his anxiety while you try
behavior modification techniques.
Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal
behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
2000 Dumb Friends League and 2003 The HSUS.
All rights reserved.
Promoting the Protection of All Animals