Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application:
Special Effects!
Elena Nunno
Account Manager Cosmetic
Merck KGAA
Perlescent Pigments: daily used.
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Perlescent Pigments: daily used.
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Cosmetic Colorants
Dyes (Colorants)
Color Pigments
Soluble in the application medium;
transparent
Insoluble in the application medium;
opaque
D&CRed#21
D&CRed#27
D&COrange#5
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Color Pigments
Al/Ba/Ca Lakes
FD&C Yellow 5 Al Lake (CI 19140:1)
D&C Red 27 Al Lake (CI 45410:2)
D&C Orange 5 Al Lake (CI 45370:2)
D&C Red 6 Ba Lake (CI 15858:2)
D&C Red 7 Ca Lake (CI 15850:1)
Colorants
Color Pigments
Insoluble in the application medium;
D&C Red 36 (CI 12085)
D&C Orange #17 (CI 12075)
D&C RED#30 (CI73360)
opaque
Inorganics Pigments
Colored
Iron Oxides
Chromium Dioxide
Ultramarines
Manganese Violet
Ferric Ferrocyanide
White
Titanium Dioxide
Zinc Oxide
Pearl pigments
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Color Pigments: Interactions with Light
optical effects
Perlescent Pigments
Metallic Colors: silver E174
gold E175
Absorption Colors:
titanium dioxide E171
iron oxide E172
carbon black E153
insoluble color lakes
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
pearl effect results from:
reflection, refraction,
interference, transmission
metallic gloss (mirror effect)
caused by total reflection
of light in a certain angle
light absorption and
undirected reflection
Merck KGaA PM PC Candurin
Perlescent Pigments: Composition and
Characteristics
Composition
- transparent and inert color carrier
- metal oxides like titanium dioxide and/or iron
oxides
- e.g. plus organic/inorganic colorants
Particle size
Thickness
- 5 - 200 m diameter
- approx. 0.1 - 0.5 m (crude silicate)
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Characteristics of Pearl Pigments
Layer-substrate pigments = even platelets
Substrate: Mica (SiO2-Flakes, Ca-Al-Borosilicate-Flakes, Al2O3-Flakes,
Synthetic Mica)
Inorganic coating: Titanium Dioxide
Iron Oxides
Chromium Oxide
Organic coating:
Carmine
Ferric Ferrocyanide
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Metal oxide
substrate
Pearlescent Luster in Nature (I)
Incident Light
Proteins
CaCO3
Reflection path through CaCO3 and proteins
layers of a natural pearl
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Pearlescent Luster in Nature (II)
To obtain the pearl effect:
- Semi transparent material
- Smooth and plane surface
- Refractive index different from the medium
- Light!
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Pearlescent Luster in Nature (III)
soap bubble
air: n = 1
air: n = 1
water layer, stabilized by tensides
n = 1.3
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Pearlescent Luster in Nature (IV)
Interference colors are based on refractive index and thickness of materials
Refractive index
Color shift
Oil film on water
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Water:
Oil:
1,33
> 1,33
Thickness deviation
Interference colors
Pearlescent Luster
Incident light
Metal oxide layer
Multiple reflection
Pearl like effect
Substrate
Transmitted light
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
SEM Picture of Mica Based Pigments
potassium aluminium silicate/
mica (E555)
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
titanium dioxide (E171)
and/or
iron oxide (E172)
Substrates
Natural
Synthetic
Mica
Synthetic
Mica
Silica
Alumina
Glass
Classic/wide use
Hiding power
Transparency
Color
Travel
Sparkle
Performance
Transparency
Gloss
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Muscovite Mica
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Pearl Luster Pigments Manufacturing
Process
milling
natural silicate,
mica (E555)
classification
particle size:
<15 - 150m
TiO2/Fe2O3
precipitation
washing/filtration
high temperatures
calcination
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Merck KGaA PM PC Candurin
drying
Effect versus Particle Size
Particle Size
Effect
1-15 m
satin gloss
5-20 m
silky gloss
10-50 m
brilliant shine
10-130 m
sparkle effect
40-200 m
glittering
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Example
Timiron Supersheen MP-1001
Timiron Starluster MP-115
Timiron Diamond Cluster MP-149
Selecting the right particle size
Particle size
small (25 m)
medium (60 m)
Pearl effect
Color coverage
satiny
very good
brilliant
good
glittering
low
large (150 m)
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Merck KGaA PM PC Candurin
Effect versus Particle Size
Small particles (<15m) for silky and satiny effects
enhance the coverage of the formulation
opacify the mass
Coarser particles (100 - 500m) create high lustrous effects
sparkling and glittering
very high brilliancy and transparency
coarse particles good reflection
small particles
lustrous
scattering centers high coverage
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Interference Pigments (I)
40-60 nm
60-80 nm
Silver
TiO2
mica
Name
80-100 nm
100-140 nm
120-160 nm
Gold
TiO2
Red
Blue
Green
TiO2
TiO2
TiO2
mica
mica
mica
mica
Particle size
Gamme Timiron Silk
5 - 25 m
Timiron Splendid Blue;
Gold
10 - 60 m
Gamme Timiron Starlight 10 - 125 m
Gloss effect and coverage
Interference color
in formulation and application
silky luster
Gold, Red, Blue, Green
medium hiding power
pearl luster
Gold, Copper, Red, Violet, Blue, Green
medium hiding power
shimmering luster
Gold, Red, Blue, Green
low hiding power
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Interference Pigments (II)
TiO2coating
mica
Green
Blu
Red
Yellow
Silver
d2 > d1
d2
d1
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
variation of the optical path
length (d n2)
change of the reflected wavelength
different interference pearl colors
Merck KGaA PM PC Candurin
Interference Pigments (III)
white light
TiO2
silver gold
red
blue
green II green III
reaction time
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Metallic Pigments
Metallic Color Luster Pigments
Red-Green
Bronze
Copper
Red
Red-Violet
Fe2O3
Fe2O3
Fe2O3
Fe2O3
Fe2O3
Mica
Mica
Mica
Mica
Mica
Colorona Copper
Specific color due to coating material & coating thickness
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Color Pigments
Color Luster Pigments
Fe2O3
Iron Blue
Cr2O3
Carmine
TiO2
TiO2
TiO2
TiO2
Mica
Mica
Mica
Mica
Colorona Precious
Gold
Colorona Carmine Red
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Colorona Dark Blue
Colorona Majestic Green
Substrates
natural
Mica
Classic/wide use
Hiding power
synthetic
Synthetic
Mica
Transparency
Silica
Alumina
Glass
BiOCl
Color
Travel
Sparkle
Performance
Transparency
Gloss
Skin feel
Compressibility
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Syntetic Substrates
Al2O3 flakes
Ca-Al-Borosilicate flakes
SiO2 flakes
Metal oxide
Synthetic Fluorphogopite
Benefits:
Substrate is produced synthetically
Precise control of the substrate properties
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Substrate
Al2O3 Substrate + Pigments
Al2O3 flakes
Metal oxide
Al2O3
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Al2O3 flakes coated with metal oxide
SiO2 Flake Substrate + Pigments
SiO2 Flakes
SiO2 Flake coated with metal oxide
Metal oxide
SiO2
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Xirona Caribbean Blue
Properties of SiO2 Flake Substrate
and SiO2 based Pigments
Uniform and precisely controllable substrate thickness
Smooth and regular surface
Transparent without masstone
Own interference color
Improved light reflection and refraction
A c olo r tra ve l e ffe c t is vis ib le o n ly b y c h a n g in g th e
vie w in g a n g le !
S iO 2 fla k e
m e t a l o x id e
SiO2 based Pigments
Improved color purity
Color travel properties (angle-dependent)
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Ca-Al-Borosilicate Substrate
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Properties of Ca-Al-Borosilicate
based Pigments
High brilliance
High gloss
Nice skin
feeling
Multi-color
effect
Ca-Al-Borosilicate-flake
Protective layer
< 1 m
20 200 m
Metal oxide layer
Pure and
Full colors
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Very high
Transparency
RONASTAR NOBLE
SPARKS
Synthetic Mica Substrate
Chemical composition
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
TiO2
SnO2
Particle size
20.0 180.0 m (80% in range)
Extraordinary brilliant sparkle
Clean white masstone
Balanced transparency/coverage
Surprisingly good skin feel
High metallic luster
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
TIMIRON ICE CRYSTAL;
TIMIRON SYNWHITE 40
Possible Combinations of Pigments
pure pigment
Interference pigments
Silverwhite pigments
Gold pigments
Color Luster pigments
Color Travel pigments
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
on a black background
plus colorants (in-org.
or org. dye or pigment)
pigment mixture
exception:
complementary
interference pigments
Color Mixing Rules ...
In case of interference pigments, consider color mixing rules (no subtractive mixing, but additive
mixing!)
Absorption pigments = subtractive color mix
yellow + blue = green
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Interference pigments = additive color mix
yellow + blue = white
Influence of Various Amounts of Absorption
Pigments on the Resulting Pearlescent Effect
absorption-dull effect
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pearlescent-shine effect
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Interaction with Light Absorbing Ingredients
incoming light
transparent
film
pigment platelet; reflected light
e.g. absorption pigment; reflected light
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Influence of the Product Surface
reflected
reflected light
light
incoming light
rough product surface
smooth product surface
pigment platelets
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Major Applications
Color (decorative) Cosmetics
design/modify the visual appearance of face, body and hair
Examples are: eyeshadows, eyeshadow gels, lipsticks, lipgloss,
foundations, nail lacquers, ...
Personal Care Cosmetics (Toiletries)
natural structure and function of the skin/hair should be adhered, e.g. cleansing,
care and protection
Examples are: lotions, creams, shampoos, soaps, tooth gels, styling gels,
...
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Differences between Color and Care Cosmetics
Target group
Buying intention
Color cosmetics
Care products
Limited to women & girls
Male and female population
Additional / luxurious product /
Sense of fashion
Necessity / personal hygiene
Relation between color shade
and buying intention
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Styling and indulgence
Differences between Color and Care Cosmetics
Color cosmetics
Large variety of different product
categories
Big color range in each category
Short duration (seasonal look)
Dependent on fashion trends
Long visibility after application
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Care products
Smaller variety of different product categories
Limited coloring potential
Long lasting
Less dependent on fashion trends
Invisible / hardly visible on the skin
Pearl Luster Pigments
Basic Rules for Formulating
Use the most transparent formulation possible
The less opacity the formulation has, the better the pearlescent effect;
therefore, lower pigment concentrations are needed. Opaque formulations
require higher pigment levels, because light scattering decreases
pearlescence.
Avoid grinding and milling of pearlescent pigments
If mechanical stress onto the pigments is too high, the pigment particles might
break or the metal oxide layer might be removed from the substrate, resulting
in loss of luster and color change.
Consider color-mixing rules in case of interference pigments
Absorption pigments mix subtractively, because the visible color is the nonabsorbed portion of light. Interference pigments mix additively, because the
visible color is the reflected portion of light.
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Color (decorative) Cosmetics: Main Segments
Eyes
(e.g. eyeshadows, eyeliners, mascara...)
Lips
(e.g. lipsticks, lip gloss,...)
Nails
(e.g. nail lacquers)
Hair
(e.g. styling mousse, hair wax, styling gels )
Face
(e.g. foundations, concealers, blushers,)
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Personal Care: Main Segments
Skin care
(e.g. moisturizers, lotions, creams, oils, gels,)
Hair care
(e.g. shampoos, conditioners, styling products,
coloring products ...)
Body care
(e.g. soap bars, liquid soaps, bath crystals,
body washes, shower gels, deodorants, ...)
Oral hygiene
(e.g. tooth gels, tooth pastes, mouth washes, ...)
Mens cosmetics
(e.g. shave and after shave products, ...)
Sun care
(e.g. sun lotions and creams,
after sun treatments, self-tanning products,...)
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Formulating Pearl Pigments in different
Applications
Addition of pearl pigments to formulations without problems
Applicable for all cosmetic applications
disperse in water or oil/wax phase
no side reactions with other raw materials
pH-stability (only some exceptions)
Powders
add pearls after / with addition of binder
Dispersions (e.g. nail polish)
add pearls after addition of color solutions
no tendency to agglomerate
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Overview Formula Categories
Emulsion
Face cream, body lotion, foundation, mascara, fluid-eyeliner
Stick
Lipstick, foundation & eyeshadow, pencil
Powder
Facepowder, blush, eyeshadow
Paste
Blush, lip-gloss, compact-foundation, cream-eyeshadow
Dispersion
Nail polish
Gel
Shower gel, liquid soap, hair gel, shampoo
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Emulsions
Effect versus Concentration
Recommended
pigment concentration
Effect
Aesthetic
Improvement of product appearance delivers a more
elegant and/or luxurious effect for skin care and makeup formulations.No coloring of the skin.
0.05 0.5 %
Functional
Providing additionally a coloring effect on the skin
similar to color cosmetic products.
0.5 4.0 %
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Visual Effects in Emulsions
Body cream with 3% pigment; l.t.r Ronastar Golden Sparks - Timiron Silk Gold - Colorona Bronze Fine
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Stabilization of Pearl Pigments
In highly viscous systems, pearl luster pigments are stable within the
base. Only in systems of very low viscosity pearl luster pigments have to
be stabilized against sedimentation. Pearl pigments usually do not require
additional suspension agents in foundations. The concentration of
thickeners depends on the final viscosity and can vary from 0.5 to 1.5 %.
Cream with Blue Interference Pigment
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application:
Special Effects!
Cream with Violet Interference Pigment
Formulating with Pearl Pigments Emulsion:
Pigment Addition before
water phase:
addition of pearl pigment
emulsifying
cooling down
Avoid excessive homogenization!
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Formulating with Pearl Pigments Emulsion:
Pigment Addition after
emulsifying / homogenizing
cooling down
addition of pearl pigment
Work under vacuum, stir slowly to avoid introduction of air
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Stick Formulations
Waxes
10-25%
Oils
40-65%
may contain volatiles
0-30%
Pearlescent pigments
0-20%
Color pigments
3-15%
Functional fillers
0-8%
Additives
q.s.
e.g. actives, SPF, perfume
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Formulating with Pearl Pigments
Oil / Wax based Products
oil / wax phase
~80C
addition of pearl pigment
(only stirring)
cooling down
Due to their high density pearl luster pigments based on mica may settle down
either in the hot melted lipstick bulk or within the lipstick moulds after pouring.
This can be avoided by stirring continuously during incorporation of the
pigments and by maintaining a low pouring temperature.
Stir during filling to avoid sedimentation!
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
A high content of pearl pigments in lipstick formulations may cause flow
lines in the finished lipsticks. This can happen if the temperature of the
moulds is not adjusted to the temperature of the lipstick mass. The moulds
should be pre-heated to 50 - 60C.
Recommended usage concentration of pearl luster
pigments to achieve different effects in lipsticks
Desired Effect
Reccomanded
Concentration
Remarks
Subtle pearl effect
1 5%
All particle sizes
Strong pearl and luster
effect
5 15%
All particle sizes
Highlighting, sparkling
effect
1 10%
> 100 microns
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Recommended usage concentration of pearl luster
pigments for different lip applications
Finished Product
Level of Use
Lipstick
1 20%
Lip balm
3 5%
Lip gloss
1 5%
Lip lacquer
10 15%
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Personal Care
Shower Gels and Shampoos
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Formulation Tips for Gel Products
Use the most transparent formulation possible
The less opacity the formulation has, the better is the visible effect, and the
lower is the concentration on pearls needed.
Create your color
Use a colored (water/oil soluble dyes) or non-colored base formulation and
add a small amount of pearl pigments to add shine and highlights.
Effect of particle size
Small particles create silky and satiny effects, opacify the mass and impart
richer appearance. Larger sized particles will provide high luster, sparkling or
glittering effects. The formulation will stay almost transparent.
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Formulating with Pearl Pigments
Water based Products
water
disperse pearlescent pigment
add stabilisator / thickener
Avoid excessive agitation!
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Formulating with Pearl Pigments
Rules to be Considered
Addition of pearl pigments to water or oil phase
Addition of thickeners after pearl pigment
No strong homogenization necessary
Avoid excessive homogenization loss of gloss in case of big particle sized
pigments possible!
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Personal Care
Tooth Pastes / Tooth Gels
Usually manufacturers only use pearl pigments to highlight the transparent and colored (red,
blue or green) stripes.
Due to the high light scattering properties of titanium dioxide the pearlescent effect in the
white part will be minimized.
Usage level:
0.1 - 0.6%
Recommended particle size
D90:
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
>50m (as coarse as possible)
Mercks Brands
Timiron
Silverwhite & interference pigments
Colorona
Pearlescence plus absorption equals color
(Gold, Color Luster, Metallic Color, Two-Tone, Mica Black)
Xirona
Brilliant Color Travel pigments
Ronastar
Pigments with high chroma, sophisticated effects
and clean mass tone
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
