HOW TO GROW MARIJUANA HYDROPONICALLY

[grow six foot plants in three months!!]

Scanned and Typed by Woz
CHAPTER 1 - INTRODUCTION
Well, you have opened my book, and you are probably
wondering what a toilet has to do with growing marijuana . . .
perhaps you have never heard of hydroponic gardening.
That is what this book is all about; turning you on to an old
method of growing plants in the absence of soil and using it
as a brand new method of growing super weed!
The word hydro, meaning water, and the word ponic,
meaning working, makes the definition of hydroponics
water-working. Growing plants in an inert substance such as
gravel, with a liquid nutrient solution circulating through the
growing medium, results in faster growing, healthier plants.
As for the toilet, it is a completely functional hydroponic
garden. There are, however, better things to use for a growing
unit.
No longer is there a need to hassle with all the pots and soil
one needs to grow plants the conventional way.
All you need for hydroponics is one tray four to eight inches
deep that can be used for the entire growing cycle of your
plants from seedlings to maturity. As for the growing medium, you can use gravel, vermiculite, sand, or even broken
pottery. Best of all, it can be made fully automatic so that you
don't even need a green thumb to get excellent results with
hydroponics.
All the information you need to grow your favorite plants is
in the chapters ahead. Of course, I do not recommend growing anything illegal. As you all know. growing marijuana is
illegal in the United States. Therefore, it is the author's recommendation that you read this book for your own personal
information. However, all of the information in this book can
also be applied to growing legal plants, vegetables and
herbs in a fraction of the time it takes with conventional
methods.
Hydroponics (What is it?)
What makes a plant grow? The majority of plants require a
few essentials; water, air, light, mineral salts, and a growing
medium to support the roots. A plant growing in soil sends
out a root system to absorb the mlneral salts available in the
soll. These salts, broken down into an inorganic form, are
absorbed into the roots by a process known as osmosis.
Carbon dioxide, from the air, is drawn into the leaves to help
in the process of making new tissue. The energy needed to
transform these substances into livlng tissue comes from
light.
When the source for mineral salts dwindles, the plant

sends out roots to locate a new source. The energy used up

- by the plant in producing new root systems amounts to lost
- time and energy that could be used in growing foliage.
- In hydroponic gardening, a plant is grown in a medium
such as gravel. To feed the plant, a nutrient solution containing mineral salts is circulated through the gravel giving the
plant all the nutrition it needs for optimum growth. Since the
plant has all the mineral salts readily available, the root system can be kept to a minimum, thus more energy is exerted toward foliage
production.
Since the plants don't have to compete for mineral salts.
they can be placed closer together. The result: higher yield
and faster growing plants in the space available. Of course,
there are a few things you have to know before you start the
hydroponic garden. In the chapters ahead, I will cover all the
details you'll need to grow super plants.
Germinating Your Seeds
This is a good place to start. By the time your seeds germinate, you could have the hydroponic garden all set up.
In the past few years, I have seen a lot of different methods
of germinating seeds. In myopinion, the pa,n_ertowel method
works the best. This consists-of placing the seeds between
four or five damp paper towels and then placing them in a
warm area of the house.
Sprouts should appear in about one to seven days. It is
very important to keep an eye on the sprouts to prevent
them from drying out. A good practice is to water them lightly
every day. As they sprout, place them into a BR 8 immediately.
This is important because if you wait too long you could
damage the roots.
It is best to handle the plant as little as possible. Many times
roots have been damaged during transplanting; thus dwarf
ing the plant. Germinating the seeds first gives the grower a
better selection of the healthiest sprouts. The first seeds to
usually grow to become the healthiest plants.
CHAPTER 2 - GROWING MEDIUM
The growing medium is a very important part of hydroponics.
It would be wise to take some time in choosing the
best medium available. The right decision can make or
break the quality and quantity of your stash.
Requirements for a Good Growlng Medium
First, it must be an inert material (a substance with no
active chemicals of its own). Thls is important because you
don't want any foreign chemicals leaching into the nutrient
solution that could contaminate it. Gravel, sand, vermiculite.
and perlite are some of the most commonly used inert
mediums. Second, it must be a materlal that will not pack

down too tightly. It is very important that the plant has a

supply of oxygen around the root system. If the growing
medium packs too tightly, the aeration will be stined, eventually suffocating the plant. The third factor for a good growing
medium is the ability to retain water. Without proper mois
ture around the roots at all times, the plants will die quickly.
Gravel
In my opinion, gravel is the best growing medium by far. It
is readily available at stores selling cement. It is easy to clea n
and sterilize. The aeration is very good, and it retains water
for long periods of time.
Gravel can also be re used by simply sterilizlng it after
cleaning all the roots from the previous crop. The size of the
gravel should be about the size of a green pea . . . hence the
name "pea gravel".
I should mention that in the past, I have obtalned the gravel
I use from a sand and gravel company, and have never
sterilized it for the flrst crop. Aner rinslng it well with fresh
water it is usually safe to use. I would recommend, however.
that you sterilize the growing medium after the first crop to
prevent bacteria growth. Thls bacterla could disease future
plants. If you obtain the gravel from a rlver bed or a source
other than a sand and gravel company, it would be wise to
sterilize it,iust to be safe.
Using Chlorine to Sterilize
You can use chlorine bleach to sterilize the growing
medium by mixing a solution of 1/4 cup chlorine per gallon of
water. Let the gravel soak in this solution overnight, then
flush thoroughly with fresh water until most of the odour is
gone. If there is a remaining odour of chlorine it will not hurt the
plants, but it is important not to allow any chlorine solution
to remain at the bottom of the growing tray. This would
deflnitely harm your plants.
Sand
Sand is another popular medium used in hydroponics. It is
important to use a coarse non calcerous sand. If the sand is
too fine or contains silt or soil, it will eventually pack down
and prevent proper aeration. Beach and river sand can be
used as long as you wash it thoroughly. If possible, it is better
to buy the sand already washed and ready to go. A good
place to obtain it is as a swimming pool supply store.
There is one major problem with using sand. Being more
dense than gravel, it has a tendency to build up unwanted
salts which will hurt the root system. It is a good idea to leach
these salts out with fresh water every time you replenish the
nutrient solution. This is done by running fresh water through
the growing tray in place of nutrients.
Vermiculite
Vermiculite is obtained from natural mica deposits. When
heated to a very high temperature, it expands to 15 times its

original size. The finished product is a lightweight, sterile,

highly absorbant material. Because of these properties, it is
used quite often in hydroponic gardening, (usually in con
junction with another growing medium.) Since it is so highly
absorbant, it isn't wise to use by itself. Mold and fungus have
a tendency to grow easily in a constantly damp medium.
Vermiculite works quite well in conjunction with perlite in
units that require high moisture absorption. A mixture of 1/2
vermiculite and 1/2 perlite is often used in wick systems. (See
the next chapter on containers).
Perlite
Perlite is made of puffed glass that is capable of retaining
over six times its own weight of water. It can be used as a
growing medium by itself, or as an additive to other sterile
mediums. Although it has a tendency to grow algae, it will
not harm your plants. Perlite has the added advantage of not
turning to "mush" as vermiculite often does. When using
either one of these two mediums, it is important to use fllters,
as they contain flne particles that may clog up the pump.
(This applies if you are using an automatic system).
Perlite and vermiculite can both be used more than once,
but it is important that it is allowed to dry out before reusing.
This can be done by removing it from the growing tray and
placing it in the sun until dried.
Cinders
If you use cinders for the growing medium, be sure to soak
them in water for at least 24 hours to remove any excess ash.
Some of the more common types of cinders used are volcanic, coal, and charcoal cinders.
Mica-Peat
It isn't wise to use mica-peat by itself as a growing medium
because of its make up. It does work well as an additive to
sand or vericulite to improve aeration.
Broken Bricks and Pottery
If you are really hard up for a growing medium, broken
bricks or pottery can be used with good results. Break the
pottery or brick into small pieces with a hammer; 1/8 to 1/2 inch
is sufficient. Soak the pieces for 24 hours to clean away any
excess clay. This is a good way to recycle any broken clay
pots you may have.
CHAPTER 3 - THE CONTAINER
There are many types of containers one can use for the
hydroponic garden. Plastic dishwashing trays, plastic covered wooden boxes, old sinks, and plastic flower pots are
some of the most commonly used.
The only requirements needed for a growing tray are:

I . It must be made of a material that will not decompose in

water. Untreated wood, compressed fiber pots, and untreated metal containers are not good to use. Plastic contain
ers, wood treated with flberglass or epoxy paint, and porcelain will bring better results.
2. The growing tray must have good drainage. Without it,
small pools of nutrient solution will remain on the bottom of
the tray. Eventually, the root system will become rotten from
being constantly wet. If this should occur. the plant will
become sick and die. Be sure to put the drain at the lowest
point of the growing tray, to assure complete drainage.
3. It is important that the growing tray be at least 5 inches
deep for proper root growth.
If it is not this deep, the roots won't have enough area to
grow, to support the plant.
Manual Feedlng vs. Automatic Feeding
One of the big advantages of hydroponic gardening is that
it can be made completely automatic. You can use a
submergible pump and a timer together to do all of the
scheduled feedings.
There are only two things that you will need to do. One,
raise the lights occasionally, because your plants are going
grow very fast once they have established themselves.
(usually 2-3 weeks).
Secondly, you will need to change the nutrient solution
every 10-14 days, for best results.
Manual feeding hydroponic units are excellent for the
beginner. The units are easy to make, and are inexpensive
as well. Although as you become more interested in hydro
ponics you will probably want to advance to an automatic
system.
The most popular hydroponic gardens are the gravityfeed
type. These units are nooded one to four times daily. This is
easily done with a small unit needing one to five gallons of
nutrient solution. When the growing tray is larger and requires five to ten gallons of nutrient solution it is impracticai
to try to manuaily feed the plants because of the weight
involved.
---------------------------------------------DIAGRAM OF TUB ON TABLE WITH BUCKET UNDERNEATH
---------------------------------------------This hydroponic garden is simple to construct, and the
results are excellent. Any plastic container that is at least flve
inches deep will work. Cut a l/4 inch hole in the center bottom
of the container. Place a plastic screen over the hole to
prevent any of the growing medium from falling through.

Use gravel, vermiculite, or perlite for the growing medium.

After germlnating the seeds, put them into BR 8 growing
cubes. Place the cubes into the growing medium six inches
apart to allow for normal growth.
Water the plants one to four times daily. To do this, simply
pour the nutrient into the growing tray, then replace the
bucket under the tray to allow the nutrient to now back into
the bucket.
Replace the nutrient solution every ten to fourteen days.
When you do replace it, pour fresh water once through the
medium to leach out any build up of mineral salts.
Unless you have a bright window to put this garden near, it
would be a good idea to use a plant light for best results.
(Refer to the chapter on lighting to find the best light to use for
your particular needs.)
-------------------------------------------------photo of tub on bench, lie previous diagram
-------------------------------------------------This is another hydroponic garden that is used quite often,
because of its ease of construction and use.
Like the previous hydroponic garden, you can use any
plastic container that is at least five inches deep. The reservoir is a plastic bucket, connected to the tray by a hose.
When it is time to feed the plants, raise the bucket higher
than the growing tray allowing the nutrients to drain. Then,
lower the bucket so that the solution will flow back.
-------------------------------------------------photo of water being poured onto tub/br 8's
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------diagram of weed in box, showing roots etc
-------------------------------------------------Probably tne most trouble-free of all the hydroponic units is
the wick system. The plants get the food they need through a
specially treated wick suspended in the nutrient solution.
This is made possible by a process known as capillary
action. The wick system works very well for a small garden
of four or five plants, but for a larger operation the irrigation
method should be used.
To construct a wick system, you will need two containers
at least six inches deep, preferably the same size. In one of
the containers drill six 1/8 inch holes, in the bottom. The
number of wicks the system will need depends on the size of
the growing tray. Thread the wicks through the holes as in
the picture, leaving approximately four inches suspended
from the bottom.
The second tray should have enough nutrient in it so that
when the top container is fitted into the bottom one, the

wicks will be submerged in the liquid.

The next step is to fill the top container with perlite or
vermiculite, (a combination of one-half perlite and one-half
vermiculite works very well). In this type of unit be sure to
use the previous mentioned mediums, because of their high
moisture absorbing qualities. To start the capillary action of
the wicks, pour enough nutrient into the growing medium to
dampen it. The system is now ready for germinated seedlings.
Unlike other types of hydroponic growing units, the wick
system doesn't need the nutrient changed. It is necessary
however to keep the nutrient at a constant ~evel. Add more
nutrient solution as the plants use it up.
When you decide to get into growing plants on a larger
scale you may want to build a fully automatic system.
The advantage to this is that it can be built to your own
speciflcation. The biggest cost of the system will be the
pump and timer. The growing tray and reservoir can be
built inexpensively using a wood frame lined with a vinyl
plastic. The total cost for a home-made hydroponic growing
system may be anywhere from S 10 to S100 depending on
the size, and whether it is automatlc (needing a pump and
timer) or manual feeding.
------------------------------------------------------------------photo of hands holding tub over basin with tubes hanging out bottom
------------------------------------------------------------------There are two factors that you will want to keep in mind
when building a growing unit. First. if the hydroponic unit is
going to be used inside under artificial lighting the growing
tray should be designed to fit under your lamps. A four foot
growing tray requires a four foot Gro-lux light. An eight foot
growing tray requires an eight foot Gro lux, and so on. The
width of the growing tray is also governed by the amount
of lamps to be used. when using a double lamp flxture, the
growing tray shouldn't be wider than 12 inches, because of
the amount of light the plants will receive from that singie
source.
The second factor is whether the growing unit is going to
be automatic feeding or manual. If the unit is going to be a
manual feeding system, the size will be regulated by the
amount of nutrient solution needed to irrigate the growing
tray.
To calculate the amount of nutrient needed to irrigate the
growing medium of a given size tray, multiply the width by
the length by the depth in inches. Then dlvide this number
by 1728 (the number of inches in one cubic foot). Multiply
this number by 7.5 (the approximate number of gallons
in one cubic foot). This flgure is the approximate number
of gallons needed to flll the growing tray, but since the gravel
takes up 2/3 of the area, divide the number by three. This
is the number of gallons needed to irrigate the growing
medium.

Once you have decided on the size and type, (automatic or

manual feeding) you are ready for the construction. The
sides can be made of 3/4in plywood or 2in x 8in boards. The
bottom should be 3/4in plywood. All of the joints should be
glued with a marine glue. It would also be a good idea to
use corregated nails at all the joints for added strength.
At one end of the tray, drill a 1in hole for drainage. You will
need a plastic hose fitting to place in the hole, (see the
picture on the next page).
It is possible to coat the tray with a plastic flberglass resin,
but I have found through experience that it is a lot easier to
line the tray with a vinyl plastic cloth.
For the nutrient reservoir, an exact replica of the growing
tray can be made. It is also possible to use a plastic jug or
container. A plastic garbage can makes a 800d nutrient
reservoir. (A kit to build a 12in x 36in x 8in hydroponic unit is
available from Indoor Garden Supply Co. in the back of the
book.)
------------------------------------------------------------diagram of big weed in toilet with pump...
------------------------------------------------------------Now, the one you have been waiting for. An old toilet will
work for a hydroponic garden.
To make the toilet work, you will need a pump. If you have
a drill motor, a "Flotec" pump can be used in conjunction
with it. This pump costs about $6.00
A water-tight box will have to be constructed to catch the
nutrient solution once it has been flushed through the
growing medium. You can use 2n x 4n lumber and plywood
coated with asphalt emulsion, or epoxy marine paint to
build the tanks.
To feed the piants, simply flush the toilet and turn the
pump on. Do this four times a day for best results.
CHAPTER 4 - LIGHTING
Lighting is a major part of the indoor hydroponic garden. It
can determine the rate of growth, the sex, and potency of
your plants. Without good light, most plants cannot complete
the process known as photosynthesis. In this process, a plant
makes carbohydrates (simple sugars) from carbon dioxide
and water utilizing the energy from light. A waste product
from this process is oxygen. When a plant is receiving only a
portion of the light it needs, photosynthesis is impaired. The
result can be slow growth rate, low potency, and a plant that
is susceptible to insects and disease.
When growing plants outside, they may receive anywhere from 600 to 15,000 footcandles of light depending

on the weather. A plant grown indoors underartificial lighting

will receive anywhere from 500 to 1,800 footcandles of light
depending on the type, quantity, and size of plant li~t
used. (See chart below).
It is obvious that you would obtain better results growing
plants outdoors because of the lighting difference. but unless
you have a secluded spot to grow them in, I wouldn't
suggest it.
Excellent results have been obtained growing plants indoors using artificial lights. There are also many advantages to growing plants indoors; the entire growing environment can be completely controlled. Insects and disease
nonexistent; and the temperature and humidity are easily
adjusted to the plants needs. Best of all, you can grow your
favorite plant in the privacy of your own home!
Measurement in Footcandles Received by a Plant
Under Artificial Lighting
Distance
from lamps
(inches)
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
18
24

Two lamps
used for
200 hours
1100
860
680
570
500
420
360
330
300
280
260
240
130
100

Four lamps
Used for
200 hours
1600
1400
1300
1100
940
820
720
660
600
560
510
480
320
190

Four lamps
New
1800
1600
1400
1260
1150
1000
900
830
780
720
660
600
420
260

*Footcandle is a measurement used to rate the amount of radiant enery

an object may receive from a light source. One footcandle is the amount of
visible light falling on one square foot located one foot away from one
candle. You might want to read that again but it doesn't really matter if
you
understand it. All you need to know is that the more footcandles a plants
receiving the better.
The Length of Light Per Day
Determines Flower Production
The length and amount of light a plant receives per day
plays a large part in determining maturity and potency.
When growing plants indoors under artificial lighting. you
can control the length and intensity of the day and night
period.
Marijuana plants produce resins to keep its leaves moist in
times of drought. As the plant becomes older its capabilities

for producing resin increases. The resin content is at its

highest when the plant is producing seed.
Keeping these factors in mind, it would be best to prolong
the flowering process for as long as possible, and to harvest
just before pollination. A daylight period of about 18 hours
light and 6 hours dark will produce a flowering plant in
approximately flve months. An increase of the dark period.
and a decrease of light will start the flowering process. so
keep the day and night time constant, a timer should be used
on the lights.
It is important to use sufficient lighting for the indoor hydroponic garden. It is a major factor in growing a superior crop.
Use very high output fluorescent lamps, or low watt metalarc lamps for the best results. When using standard output
fluorescent lighting use a minimum of two lamps, three and
four are even better.
To assure good light distribution, paint the walls white or
line them with aluminum foil.
Plant Lights
There are lights on the market made especially for plant
growth. The most commonly used are the fluorescent types
because of the color range emitted. The low heat, and the
small amount of electricity used make these economical.
These lamps put out, along with other colors, red and blue
light. Scientists have found that plants need these colors to
complete the photosynthesis process. Gro-Lux, Dura-Lite,
and Vita-Light are some of the most commonly used plant
lights.
Uslng Cool White Lamps as Plant Lights
Good results have been obtained with the use of fluorescent cool white lamps. Even though they are low in the red
and far red light range, your plants will grow well under this
type of lamp. They are a little cheaper than the plant lights on
the market but are not specifically formulated for plant
growth. Some growers swear by them; personally, I feel that
the Gro-Lux plant light is superior.
Light Distance from the Plants
If you look at the table on page 31, you will notice that the
amount of light the plant will receive depends on the distance from the light source. Placing a plant under a Gro-Lux
lamp about one inch from the bulb will give the plant
approximately 1,100 footcandles of light. Moving the lamps
further from the plants will reduce this amount. It is importantthat you keep the fluorescent light source close to the plants
at all times. Caution should be taken to keep the leaves from
touching the lamps since burning may result.
How many lamps should one use for the hydroponic
garden? Since light is a major element in plant growth, your
plants will grow according to the amount of light they receive. Studies on light output of fluorescent lamps show that
using four lamps rather than two will almost double the

amount of footcandles a plant will receive. The more light the

plant receives, the more vigorous its growth. Be sure to give
your plants sufficient lighting; they will love you for it.
Grow-Lux Plant Lights
The Gro-Lux light made by the Sylvania Company comes
in sizes 12 to 96 inches and will fit a standard fluorescent flxture. There are two types of Gro-Lux lights; the standard and
wide spectrum. The difference is in the amount of light they
put out in the red and blue light spectrums. Standard (,ro-l,ux
lamps put out 27.07% blue and 39.55% red, while the wide
spectrum Gro Lux put out 14.29% blue and 21.78% red. Blue
light will promote foliage and red light will promote stem
growth, and flower production. A combination of standards
and wide spectrum lights will work. You will have better results
using all standard Gro-Lux lamps.
The standard and wide spectrum Gro-Lux lamps come in
three intensities; regular output, high output, and very high
output, each needing a different output fixture and ballast.
The very high output is the best of the three but is also the
most expensive.
You can see a difference in the rate of growth and potency
when growing plants under a VHO lamp and fixture. It
makes sense that the closer you get to simulating the light
intensity of the sun, the better the results will be.
Incandescent Plant Lights
Within the last few years the large light manufacturers
have come out with an incandescent light made especiallv
for use in growing plants. Even though they are superior to
the standard incandescent light we use in our homes, they
can't yield the results obtained wlth a fluorescent lamp. The
light emitted from an incandescent lamp is in the red and far
red side of the light spectrum, but is very low in the blue
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!table goes here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
---------------------------------------------Energy Emission in Arbitrary Color Bands
40 Watt Flourescent Lamps
(In Watts and Percent of Total Emission)
---------------------------------------------range. since plants utilize red light in the production of
flowers, the incandescent lamp makes a good supplemental
lighting source to use when you want the plants to bloom.
When using an incandescent lamp, it is important to hang
it at least two feet from the plants because of the heat
radiated from it. Also, it would be wise to use a porcelain fix
ture because it can take the higher heat involved.
Metalarc Lamps

With the invention of the metalarc lamp. it is now possible

to use these high intensity lights for plant growth. With
mercury and sodium vapor lamps there was a problem with
the spectrum of light they emitted. Metalarc lamps have
excellent color retention, and work very well for growing
plants. The average life for the metalarc when used 18 hours
a day is about 9,000 hours. It should be hung in a vertical
position (this is important to make it work properly), about 36in
from the plants. Heat can sometimes become a problem,
but with a remote ballast it can be alleviated. The two sizes
used most often are the 400 watt and 1,000 watt. The best
results have been obtained using the 1,000 watt lamp and
fixture.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!TABLES GOES HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Incandescent Plant Light--Footcandles..etc
Ground the Light Fixture
Since hydroponics is growing plants in a liquid solution. it
is very important to electrically ground the lighting fixtures.
(Especially the metalarc type.) This can be easily done by
connecting a wire from anywhere on the fixture to a cold
water pipe or a metal rod stuck into the ground. Some
buildings have three prong recepticles that are connected to
ground. If so, obtain a plug to flt this type of recepticle
and ground the fixture accordingly. If you don't know what
you are doing when it comes to wiring, ask someone who
does to help you. By grounding the fixture you are protecting
yourself from any chance of electric shock.
Hanglng Your Lights
It is best to hang the lamps from the ceiling on pulleys,
because they are easily raised and lowered. I have seen
plants grow up to four inches in a 24 hour period chances
are that you will have to raise the lights everyday once the
plants have established themselves hydroponically.
Life Expectancy
Fluorescent lamps last 6 to lo times longer than the incandescent type. The life expectancy of a fluorescent plant light
is approximately 12,000 hours. It is a good idea to change the
lamp after about 10,000 hours, because they may lose up to
45% effective light after that. If this isn't done, the plant may
suffer from the lack of light.
Lighting Efficiency
The most efficient part of a fluorescent light is the middle
third. The light output gets a little weaker towards the ends of
the bulb. So, save the center for your favorite plant.
Lighting Costs
The cost of running an eight foot double fluorescent fixture
for 18 hours a day for one month will be approximately $2.70.

This figure depends on the price of electricity in your area,

and was based on a rate of 3 cents per killowatt hour.
To increase the efficiency of the growing room, paint the
walls white or line them with foil. This will increase the
amount of light reflected back to the plants.
CHAPTER 5 - NUTRIENT SOLUTIONS
One advantage to hydroponic gardening is the ability to
control the nutrients available to the plant. Marijuana like
most plants need the three basic elements -- nitrogen,
phosphorus, and potassium -- along with trace elements,
iron, manganese, copper. zinc, boron, and molybdenum.
Although no studies per se have been made on the requirements of marijuana for highest potency, it is close to the
requirements for growing hops.
In the early stages of growth, marijuana needs a high
amount of nitrogen and potassium and not so much calcium. In later life, the amount of calcium should be increased.
During the last couple of months the nitrogen should be
decreased along with the potassium and calcium to promote
resin production.
Almost any commercial fertilizer can be used in hydroponics as long as it contains all of the necessary elements.
Many people mix up their own nutrients to suit the plant's
needs. There are, however, many good commercial plant
nutrients on the market that have a guaranteed analysis.
If you wish to mix your own, Sudbury XYZ elements can
be used. Excellent results have been obtained with ECOGrow. It is far superior to most other nutrients on the market
Nitrogen
This element is quite important in the makeup of the
nutrient solution. Plants use large quantities of nitrogen in
the production of proteins and in chlorophyll development.
During the plant's early life the demand for this element is
high. As the plant matures and begins to produce seed, the
need for nitrogen is less. In excess amounts, the plant will
grow lush green foliage with soft sappy stems. It can also
slow down the metabolism of the plant and thus slow down
the flower process.
A deficiency of nitrogen may produce a slow-growing,
secrabon also
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