55

CRAFTY COMPUTER
DESK

Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions 256

 For most computer owners, finding a desk with enough space for all the
computer's components plus enough room to work is a challenge. While many
models are on the market, most are made of pressed wood products lacking any
redeeming aesthetic qualities.
This computer desk was carefully designed to satisfy the need for a functional
work space and the desire for quality furniture.
A typical computer system has four basic pieces: a hard drive unit, monitor,
keyboard and printer. These pieces must be hooked together with an array of
plugs and cables. Through the pictures, drawings and text, you'll see how this center
has been designed to accom-modate these parts and hide unsightly cables.
The computer center consists of a desk and a hutch. Each is built as a separate unit,
then assembled to complete the design. For both units, you will use 3/4" solid oak
lumber, 3/4" MDF oak and 1/44" oak ply-wood. The solid oak is available in any
length; the MDF and oak ply-wood come in 4' x 8' sheets.
A rule every experienced wood-worker lives by is "measure twice, cut once." Even
though you're get-ting the most exact measurements possible, you should double
check before cutting.
To begin, build the desk face frame from oak stiles and rails (parts A-F),
using diagram 1 and the Materials List as a guide. Special consideration should be
given to the location of the shelf rails to accommodate your computer's

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1 Mirrored dadoes in the drawer bulkheads are ready to receive the 2 The assembled drawer section with shelves in place. The face frame
drawer shelves. has already been glued on.

hard drive unit and printer. If you

3 The three backs in the
find the spaces inappropriate for desk unit shown in
your system, adjust the spacing place. Notice the wire
accordingly. chase hole for the printer
There are a number of ways to drawer.
attach the stiles and rails to form
the face frame, but we used a dowel- Since all the
ing j i g as the simplest option. computer's
Remember to lay out your doweling components must
lines exactly before drilling. hook together
If you'd like to try a different fas- with the hard
tening method, screw pockets using drive unit, space
a Kreg jig works well not only for for the cables
the face frame attachment, but also must be
for the carcase construction. accommodated.
Once the frame has been assem- While it may be tempting to try
bled and the glue has dried, remove the 1/4" oak used for the backs. to cut a large hole in the back for
the clamps. Flat sand the back side These pieces are almost impossible this area, it's actually easier to leave
joints to get a flat gluing surface. to sand properly once they're put the entire space between the top
Using the finished face frame, lay together. drawer and the second shelf open
out the two drawer bulkheads (G & Assemble the drawer section to allow access for hooking up
H) to make the 3/8" dado cuts for the using parts G, H and I. Then use the hard drive unit.
shelves (photo 1 ) . The top dado glue to insert the shelves (J) into Enclose the area behind the
holds the shelf to support the pull the dadoes in G and H. Clamp the printer drawer with a 1/4" x 15 1/4"
out board. The second dado is for assembly, check for squareness and x 22 1/2" piece of oak plywood. Cut a
the hard drive unit's shelf. The bot- let it dry (photo 2). 3" hole in this piece to match the
tom dado houses the shelf for the Next, glue and clamp the face hole you'll cut in the back of the
bottom printer drawer. frame to the assembled drawer sec- printer drawer. These holes are
Spacers will be needed on both tion and the left bulkhead (G). Fin- essential to allow for cable passage
bulkheads to allow the drawer slides ish nail the back rail (I) between and to prevent the cables from
to clear the face frame. You may the two bulkheads. The back rail is tangling when the drawer is opened
need to custom fit the thickness of important for supporting the knee or closed.
these pieces. space section and the 1/4" plywood Build two box style drawers (dia-
On the outside bulkheads (G), back. gram 2) using parts K-Q. The
cut a 3/8" x 3/8" rabbet on the inside Using 1 1/4" finish nails, attach a upper drawer is standard, but the
rear edge to accommodate for the 1/4" x 33 3/4" x 29 1/4" piece of oak
1/4" back. plywood to the back of the knee
Before assembling, pre-sand the space (photo 3). Attach another
visible sides of the bulkheads and piece 5" x 22 1/2" to the top right
behind the pull out shelf and the top
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 and the desk top will be easier
to finish unassembled, so don't
glue the stop strip to the pull
out.
The top of the desk (X) is
fashioned from multiple oak
boards. The lumber you have
available will determine how
many pieces will be necessary
for its construction.
Joint the edges to be
glued, then glue and clamp,
making sure the top will dry on
a flat. Again, pay attention to
the growth rings while
gluing.
printer drawer has been designed prevent bowing. Pay attention to Unless you're fortunate enough
to allow easier access to the printer the grain pattern while you're to have a multitude of double
and paper. Three sides of the arranging the drawer fronts. clamps, it's important that you alter-
drawer are 11" high, but the left- Glue-up the pull out board made nate them about 8" apart (one on
hand side is only 2". of MDF oak (T) with a 3/4" oak piece top, the next on the bottom, etc.)
When making the drawers, dado (U) glued on the front edge. Before to keep the top flat (photo 5).
1/4" x 3/8 deep, 1/4" up from the you start gluing, cut a finger pull on When dry, the top is sanded with a
bottom of the sides and ends to the underside of part T, using rando m orbital sand er and
allow for the 1/4" bottom. Use either the table saw or a cove bit in smoothed with a palm sander.
glue and nails or an air powered a router. Next, attach the top. (Even if you
stapler to attach one end and two Next, cut the rabbets in the pull finish the top unattached, you
sides. Then slide the bottom into out guide pieces (V). When in should attach it now to make final
the groove and attach the last place, these will act as the top guide assembly easier.) To attach the top's
end. Square the drawer and turn for the pull out. The top shelf will back right-hand side, use a hole saw
the box upside down, running a be the bottom guide and support, or expansion bit to create a 3" hole
heavy bead of glue around the thereby creating a slot for the pull in the top shelf, then drill a 3/16" pilot
bottom's inside. out to ride in (photo 4).Corner hole in the right back corner brace.
The drawer fronts (R & S) are braces in three of the four corners This gives you accessibility in fasten-
constructed from solid oak. The add stability to the unit and will fas- ing the desk top through the shelf
smaller front can be created from a ten the top. to the corner brace.
single piece, but the bottom front Screw the stop piece (W) to the On the right front side, drill a
will probably need to be glued-up. top of the pull out board at the 1/2" hole about halfway through
Alternate the growth ring pattern desired length. The pull out board the top front rail. This pocket will
on the end grain of the boards to give you

Copyright
4 The pull out board2004
is shownMartian
in place withAuctions
a top guide (V) being held 5 Alternating clamps help keep the glued-up top level while260
in place with squeeze clamps. drying.
room to maneuver your screwdriver units, are being made bigger than Glue in the top rails (LL & MM)
or drill. Make a 3/16" pilot hole the in the past, so they require at least and the hutch base moldings (NN)
remainder of the way for the screw. 17" in height. On this hutch, only to the inside of the back. Make sure
Attaching the left side is easier. Sim- the left side was made this height to the piece is flush with the inside of
ply screw through the corner braces provide maximum storage for office the back rabbets.
into the desk top. and computer supplies. You may Next, cut out and glue-up the
An effort was made to maintain as prefer to make both of the shelf hutch top (OO). Again, remember
much desk top working space as units equal in height. to pay attention to the growth rings.
possible, so the keyboard was The hutch's construction is simi- If you prefer not to use solid oak,
placed underneath it on a slide-out lar to the desk's, with rails and stiles make sure your crown molding cov-
unit. There are a variety of options (parts AA-EE) fashioning the face ers the unfinished edges.
for the keyboard's hardware. The frame. Using your face frame, mark Next, glue the crown molding to
type shown (photo 6) is mounted the position for the 3/8" shelf dadoes the front and both sides. You can
on a board measuring 1 1/2" (or on the bulkheads (FF & GG). Again make your own crown molding if
thicker) x 6" x 17", which in turn is cut a 3/8" x 3/8" rabbet on the rear you have access to the proper
mounted to the top's underside in inside edge of the outside bulk- equipment. If not, you can pur-
the center. heads (FF) to accommodate the 1/4" chase preshaped crown molding
The hutch's design gives special back. The two back pieces (30 1/4" x from a local lumberyard.
consideration to space utilization. 37 1/4", 26" x 37 1/4") will meet Make sure your corner miters are
Computer monitors, like hard drive and overlap the inner bulkhead tight before you start gluing. Attach
edge. the hutch top by gluing and clamp
The hutch's ing, or you can use some strategi-
bottom stationary cally placed screws through the
shelves (HH & II) front and back rails.
are flush with the The doors depicted on this hutch
top of the bottom are fashioned in the popular raised
face frame rails. panel mode. In case of expansion,
Do not cut it may be beneficial for you to stain
dadoes for the the interior of the panel prior to
adjusta b l e assembling rather than after, since
c e n t e r shelves the stain may not cover the unex-
(JJ & KK). posed areas.

6 The keyboard retracts under the top to allow for a cleaner desk top.
Notice the cable running into the side of the drawer section.

7 The edge view of the door shows the through tenon and groove used
to assemble the stiles and rails.

Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions 261

 8 The back of the door shows the dadoes cut to receive the hinges.

The stiles and rails for the door

are made on the shaper using a
standard 1/4" tongue and
groove (photo 7). Although some
woodworkers find a 3/8" or 1/2"
tongue and groove make the door
stronger, the 1/4" is sufficient. Use
the sizes given in the Materials List
to cut out and assemble the doors.
To fasten the doors to the cabi-
net, a knife hinge (pivot hinge)
gives a more finished look. To make 9 This detailed photo shows the hole cut in the drawer section's left
the hinge grooves, use a 1/4" dado bulkhead for the keyboard wire.
blade in your table saw raised 9/16".
The groove is 1 3/4" long for the
type of hinge shown (photo 8). tions to allow t h e c o mp u t e r
Always check the manufacturer's system to be hooked together.
instructions for specifications. To accommodate the cable
A 1/2" round over bit in a from the keyb o ard to th e hard
router was used to shape both the drive unit, cut a 1" hole in the left
ends and fronts of the hutch and side of the drawer section (photo
desk top. Shape all the edges of 9) at the level of the hard drive
the doors and drawer fronts to unit shelf.
your own style. Run a profile on Next, cut a 2" hole in the back of
the rest of the base material, then the hutch to access the cable from
glue to the desk and hutch. the monitor to the system. The
Attaching the hutch to the desk monitor will cover the hole nicely
base is one of the easiest tasks. Sim- and isn't readily visible.
ply drill pocket holes angled If you opt to cut the hole in the
through the outside of the hutch top of the desk, you will need to
back and screw in with face frame make the 1" hole in the drawer sec-
screws. tion larger (at least 2" to allow for
Now you're almost finished, with the cable attachments).
the exception of a couple modifica- Complete the entire piece using
your favorite stain and preferred
finish.
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