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 UTAH
Intermountain School Annual Indian Pow-wow, displays and exhibits
representing 21 tribes, Brigham City, May 14; Green River Cowboy Days
and Rodeo, Green River, (no date set);* Annual Re-enactment of Golden
Spike Ceremony commemorating completion of America's first trans-
continental railroad, Promontory, May 10; Black and White Days Horse-
show, Richmond, May 20-21; Cache County Dairy Festival, Logan,
CONTENTS May 27-28; Annual Friendship Boating Cruise from Green River to
Moab, May 28 29. *For date of Green River Cowboys Days and other
Volume 29 Number 5 events during 1966 write to Utah Travel Council, Council Hall, Capitol
MAY, 1966 Hill, Salt Lake City, Utah 84114.
OTHER EVENTS
This Month's Cover Annual Fiestas de Mayo Celebration, Nogales, Ariz., May 1-5; 10th
Annual Tucson Festival Art Show, Tucson, Ariz., May 1-14; Earth
Looking at Utah's New Canyonlands
National Park from Dead Horse Point
Science Study Group and Rock Swap, San Bernardino County Museum,
State Park Bloomington, Calif., May 1; Joshua Tree National Turtle Races, Joshua
By FRANK JENSEW Tree, Calif., May 7-8; 40th Annual Wildflower Show, Julian, Calif.,
May 7-22; East Bay Gem and Mineral Festival, Scottish Rite Temple,
4 New Books for Desert Readers
Oakland, Calif., May 21-22.
6 Ghosts of Silver Reef EDITOR'S NOTE: Some dates are subject to change. If you plan a trip to attend
a specific event, we suggest checking first with their local Chamber of Commerce.
By EARL SPENDLOVE
EVENTS DEADLINE: Information relative to forthcoming events in the West must be
8 Safari Afloat received TWO MONTHS prior to the event. Address envelopes to Events Editor,
Desert Magazine, Palm Desert, California 92260.
By PAT CAPSON

10 Back Country Pop Art JACK PEPPER, Publisher CHORAL PEPPER, Editor
By RELL E. FRANCIS Elta Shively Al Merryman Rose Holly Marvel Barrett Lois Dougan
Executive Secretary Staff Artist Circulation Business Subscriptions
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23 The Anasazi Trail
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NAME_
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By RAYE PRICE ADDRESS.

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46 Letters from our Readers

May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 3

 G U I D E SERIES
The Only Complete, Up-to-Date
GUIDEBOOKS
for the Different World of Utah
Three BEAUTIFUL volumes:
Brand-new, detailed guide, "Utah, the In-
credible Land" bv Ward J. Rovlance, 208
paqes, almost 200 photographs (32 in
color,I numerous maps and travel aids.
Covers every important attraction in all
parts of the state. $2 per copy (softbound).
Two 48-page pictorial volumes with THE GILA, River of the Southwest
nearly 200 photos (almost half in breath- Books reviewed may be ordered
takinq color)—
from the DESERT Magazine Book By Edwin Corle
Utah Trails, Vol. I ..$1 per copy
Utah Trails, Vol. II .$1 per copy Order Department, Palm Desert, Running across the southern part of
Three-volume set, only $4 postpaid California 92260. Please include Arizona, the Gila River has played a
(save 30c postaqe bv orderinq all three) 25c for handling. California resi-
When orderina sinqle volumes, fascinating role in the history of Mexico
enclose 1 0c per copy for postaqe. dents must add 4 % sales tax.
Enclose payment with order. and the United States. Although written
Utah Trails Company in 1951, The Gila, River of the South-
975 SO. WEST TEMPLE
SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH 84101 west, has recently been reprinted in a
THE HANDBOOK OF JADE 400-page paperback edition. The late
Edwin Code's impressions are as alive
By Gerald I. Hemrich today as they were when he first left his
FREE This little paperback is the first practi- home in the East and started writing
Order NEW 1966 Book Catalog cal book on jade slanted toward the ama- books on the Southwest. Considered a
teur lapidary and rock collector. It in- greenhorn by some, Corle is not as well
DESERT MAGAZINE cludes a description of the three types of known as other established desert chroni-
BOOK STORE jades in addition to a long list of minerals clers. How a writer of his ability is not
Palm Desert, California 92260 frequently mistaken for jade, sources of better known is a mystery. Vividly and
Since 1937 The World's Largest jade and suggestions for cutting and pol- powerfully he takes the reader from the
Selection of Books on The West ishing. An entire chapter is devoted to days of the dinosaur to the present dur-
methods for recognizing genuine jade ing which he covers exploration, ecology,
both in the rough and in worked arti- changed the course of American history,
facts. Cultural and historical aspects are politics and individual incidents which
not covered, but pertinent information, It is recommended strongly for all adults
such as the fact that jade should always and students who usually find history
OWN YOUR OWN be examined both wet and dry, examined books boring. The Gila is as fascinating
under a lOx magnifier to show any white as television! Good paperback, 401
PRIVATE LAKE
pits indicating the breakage of fibers and pages, $1.60. J.P.
or LAKE FRONTAGE in crystals, and so forth, render the book
valuable to collectors. Paperback, 81
Beautiful pages, illustrated with photographs. $2.00.
CALIFORNIA NATURAL
BEARS-BORAX AND GOLD HISTORY GUIDES
Silver Valley Compiled by Glen A. Settle Previous Natural History Guides pub-
This little paperback published by the lished by the University of California
Kern-Antelope Historical Society contains Press have dealt with Northern California.
four lively stories, two of them formerly In the current new series they offer four
5 Acres to 160 Acres published in the 1800s. The first is an paperbook books on Southern California.
exciting account of an attack made upon Three of the books are excellent for iden-
John R. Spears in 1892 by a grizzley tifying their subject matter and well
bear; the second is from the diary of
worth keeping in your car as you explore
For Information w r i t e , t.ill o r visit Dennis Searles recording his trip to Sear-
les Lake in 1890. The third is by Mel Southern California. They are Native
HAL BURDICK Sanford who, with his father, came to Shrubs of Southern California by Peter
P. ( ) . B O X 2 1 2 Ballarat during its heyday and partici- H. Raven, $1.95; Ferns and Fern Allies
NEWBERRY, CALIFORNIA pated in the mining activity there. The of Southern California by Steve J. Grillos,
On Highway 66 final chapter is a humorous essay on the $1.50, and Native Trees of Southern Cali-
Area Code 71 i CL 7-329 I lost mines assayer Martin Engel has not fornia by P. Victor Peterson, $1.95. The
found. fourth book, Introduction To The Natural
In [lie following areas call:
Glen Settle, who compiled this ma- History of Southern California, by Ed-
Upland, Box 93, AC 714 982-051 I
terial, is curater of the Tropico Gold mund C. Jaeger and Arthur C. Smith
Western Los Angles AC 213 347-3628
Eastern Los Angeles AC 213 338-2129 Camp Museum at Rosamond, California. reads like an elementary school book and
San Diego AC 714 124-7950 Antelope artist John Burgess illustrated contributes little if anything to the series.
it. Contains 52 pages. $1.50. The price is $1.95. J.P.

4 / Desert Mqgazine / May, 1966

EXPLORATIONS IN LOWER
CALIFORNIA
By Brown and Murray
In this book Spencer Murray has come
up with a truly intriguing idea. Along
with reprinting the text of a series of
ision...
articles about an 1866 exploration of
Lower California made by J. Ross Browne,
well known to devotees of Western
American history, Murray has incorpora-
ted the results of his own adventures
made 100 years later. Browne illustrated
his articles with remarkably accurate
sketches. Murray has photographed the
exact scenes still recognizable today.
Inserting comments in italic, Murray
corrects erroneous statements made by the
LIVE A 1000 LIVES
earlier explorer, such as the early belief in One Lifetime
that the famed rocks at Cabo San Lucas
were the absolute tip of Baja's rugged
peninsula. Baja aficionados should be
There are no physical limitations to
warned, however, that this book covers inner vision . . . the psychic faculties
only the southernmost tip of Baja and of man know no barriers of space or
the Pacific Coast up to the bay of Mag-
time. A world of marvelous phe-
dalena. Browne made the remainder of
this excursion by land, but because he was nomena awaits your command. Within
unaccompanied by a botanist or other the natural—but unused functions of SEE WITHOUT EYES
scientific authority, failed to record the by inner perception
your mind are dormant powers that
trek. Lie considered the interior of Baja
worthless.
can bring about a transformation of
This is a hardcover, limited edition of
your life.
1000 copies, priced at $8.95.
The Rosicrucians (not a religion)
THE ANCIENT PAST OE MEXICO are an age-old brotherhood of learning.
By Alma Reed For centuries they have shown men
SEARCH FOR
A splendid book awaited by those fa- and women how to utilize the fullness THE UNKNOWN
knoir when you find it
miliar with this author's writings and of their being. This is an age of daring
ability to assimilate objectively the le-
adventure . . . but the greatest of all is
gends, hopes and dispairs of Mexico's
enigmatic archeology. Where there are the exploration of self. Determine your
conflicting theories, she presents evidence purpose, function and powers as a hu-
and conclusions from both sides and even man being. Use the cou-
the speculations of unscientific "arche-
pon below for a free
ologists" looking for vestiges of the lost
Atlantis are presented right along v/ith fascinating book of ex-
those of today's scholars. The text inter- planation, "The Mastery
weaves history and legend and is illus- of Life", or send your re- THIS
trated with 250 drawings and photo-
quest to: Scribe: J.A.J. BOOK
graphs. This is an important book for FREE
those wishing up-to-date information on
archeological finds turned up during the
past 15 years—discoveries which have
made most existing books on the subject
THE ROSICRUCIANS (AMQRO
obsolete. It doesn't read quite as easily SAN J OS E ,
as an adventure novel, but those who
shudder at text book form will find this Scribe: J.A.J.
Rosicrucian Order (AMORC)
digestible. Hardcover, 388 pages, $7.50. San Jose. California 95114, U.S.A.
Gentlemen:
/ <wi sincerely interested hi making the utmost of ffty powers of self. Kindly send
me <i free copy of "THE MASTERY OF LIFE'.
NAME
ADDRESS-
Subscriptions as Gifts ZIP CODE
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR ZIP CODE

May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 5

 SLEEPING RAINBOW
GUEST RANCH
can give you a choice of 12 one-day jeep
trips to see and photograph an amazing
variety of treasures!
Multi-hued Stone Cathedrals
Ghosts of Silver Reef
Flowering Deserts tailed it to that tiny southern Utah com-
By Earl Spendlove
Fantastic "Goblins" munity where he learned that Alma T.
Awesome Canyons
£ £ T F HE finds anything in this, we'll Angell and Isaac Duffin made grind-
Petrified Forests
Enchanting Skies JL ride him out of town on a rail," a stones from slabs of sandstone picked
Vast Panorama of our bristly-bearded miner said, picking up up in the nearby hills. Carefully he pros-
New CANYONLANDS several pieces of a broken grindstone pected three sandstone upthrusts running
NATIONAL PARK
from the floor of a blacksmith shop in through the country in a northeasterly
Travel remote uranium trails—Find intriguing direction. Early in the 1870s, on what
rocks and fossils—Cast off tensions—Relax Pioche, Nevada.
and rejoice in outdoor splendor. Our own was known locally as the White Reef, he
The man referred to was an ambitious
garden vegetables and pure spring water. staked the first claim in one of the most
See DESERT Magazine: March ' 6 1 , April '62, young assayer who had gained the name
fabulous silver producing areas ever dis-
April '63, Arizona Highways, June '65. of "Metaliferous Murphy," because he
WRITE FOR BROCHURE
covered.
found metal of some sort in every rock
For reservations, overnight or
he examined. The citizens of this boom- What happened to Murphy after he
longer, write or phone: staked his claim, no one knows. But, in
ing mining camp, skeptical of his opti-
Sleeping Rainbow Guest Ranch spite of what the experts said, silver was
mistic reports, had decided to give him
found in the standstones of the White,
adjoining one last chance to redeem himself, so
CAPITOL REEF NATIONAL MONUMENT
Buckeye, and Leeds Reefs. Evidently
they sent him the pieces of broken grind-
P. O. Box 93, Torrey, Utah Mother Nature had not read an "expert's"
stone.
LURT and ALICE KNEE book for, in this area, she had done many
"Silver," the report read, when it came
Owners and Operators things to challenge the wits of mining
Phone: Long Distance via
back, "837 ounces to the ton!" men. In some places she forced silver-
Monticello, Utah Exchange "Impossible," the local mining author- bearing solutions into porous sandstone
All This in the ity said, "silver simply does not exist in and formed lenses of black silver sul-
Land of The Sleeping Rainbow sandstone." Murphy's doom was sealed. phides, worth from five to 50 thousand
They carried him to the edge of town on dollars. Where the sandstone fractured,
a rail, dumped him onto the ground, and the solutions entered the cracks and fis-
warned him he'd be tarred and feathered sures and the metal was precipitated out
if he returned. and plastered onto the rocks. When the
"Metaliferous" hung around just long veins were opened, horn silver could be
NEW GRAY LINE rolled, like great sheets of leather, from
enough to learn that the grindstone had
ESCORTED TOUR been brought to Pioche by a Mormon the sandstone walls.
peddler from Leeds, Utah, 30 miles south This unusual occurrence amazed min-
Southeastern Utah
of Cedar City, Utah. Then he high- ing men. In a letter dated February 7,
Northern Arizona

To Oak Grove
America's Last Wilderness Frontier
A land of Color and Contrast
Fantastic Geology—Pioneer History
Round trip from Sail Lake City
All-Expense—Six Days—Five Nights
Air-Conditioned Buses
Two Boat Trips—Two Jeep Trips Included
Tour includes: Monument Valley . . . Goose Necks of the
San Juan . . . Arches National Monument . . . Dead
Horse Point . . . Capitol Reef National Monument . . .
Natural Bridges National Monument . . . Moab (Uranium
Capitol) . Navajo and Hopi Indian Reservations . . .
Kayenta . . . Tonalea . . . Tuba City . . . Moenkopi
Glen Canyon . . . Lake Powell . . . Bryce National
Park . . . Boulder Mountain.
Jeep Tours (8-passenger Sedan-Type) at Monument Valley
and Capitol Reef. Boat trips on the Colorado River and
on newly-formed Lake Powell.
Every turn gives a vista of green-clad plateaus or flaming
cliffs. Entire 1253 miles is a paradise for camera fans.
Color for pictures is spectacular at every season.
High Desert Plateaus and Air-Conditioned Facilities make
heat no problem at any season.
For details and brochures on fh/s new exciting lour,
wrile:
GRAY LINE MOTOR TOURS
DEPARTMENT 100 D
29 WEST SOUTH TEMPLE
SALT LAKE CIITY, UTAH
84101

6 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966

 Wells-forgo bank still shunts. Door wax was entrance to Sam Wing's drugstore.

1876, William Tecumseh Barbee, a self- Mormon and Protestant preachers, in their pearing cemetery at Silver Reef. Clark
styled mining expert wrote, ". . . This efforts to save souls, occasionally "bor- was killed one night when he accused a
is the most unfavorable looking country rowed" the Catholic church, but it is faro dealer named Saxey of cheating.
for mines that I have ever seen in all of doubtful if the religious influence offered Both men went for their guns, both fired,
my varied mining experiences, but, as much competition to the eight saloons and both dropped dead. Saxey's grave
the mines are here, what are the rock and two or three dance halls strategically was marked by a rough lumber slab, but
sharps going to do about it?" located along the mile-long main street. Clark's father enclosed his son's grave
Some of the best ore was found in The miners worked hard and played in a beautiful iron filigree rectangle,
fossil plants discovered in some of the harder and death and violence were com- shipped from Russia, and erected a hand-
sandstone layers. This vegetative matter, mon. Hardly a week went by when some monument.
which included branches and trunks of someone failed to die an unnatural death. At times justice was as swift and as
trees, was deposited along with the sand In one shoot-out, John Diamond, a brutal as the crime. In the fall of 1880,
on th:; bottom of an ancient sea, long deputy U.S. Marshal and Jack Truby, Mike Carbis, foreman at the Buckeye
before the dawn of history. As time a mine foreman, killed each other. When mine, fired Tom Forrest, whom he sus-
went on it was replaced, a cell at a time, the sheriff investigated, both men were pected of stirring up trouble among the
by silver sulphides, creating veritable carrying .41 caliber revolvers, both had Irish miners. A couple of days later, on
"Money Trees." One of these, discovered been shot several times—with both .41 the morning of October 3, Forrest slit
in the Buckeye Reef in the late 1 870s by and .45 caliber bullets! F.vidently friends, Carbis' stomach open. The killer was
Patsy Cassidy and Barney Ross, netted or enemies, had joined in the fun. apprehended and lodged in the county
the two lucky Irishmen $14,000.00! Henry Clark, a young man from New jail in St. George, Utah. That night a
News of the rich discovery spread like York, achieved distinction in death: He mob of 40 men rode into town, overpow-
wildfire and, in one wild rush, prospec- has the fanciest grave in the fast disap- ered the sheriff, and hanged Tom For-
tors, promoters, miners, merchants, and rest to a cottonwood tree. Forrest's grave-
ladies of pleasure all with dreams of easy can no longer be identified, but Mike Car-
wealth, flocked to the new diggings in bis sleeps beneath a tall marble slab, half
the heart of Brigham Young's Cotton hidden in a tangle of brush and trees in
Mission. the south end of Bonanza Flat.
Barbee, a high-pressure promoter if Today, there is little left of the bust-
there ever was one, subdivided a sandy ling mining camp of the 1880s. A few
flat just north of the Buckeye Reef, tombstones stand in Bonanza Flat, and
named it Bonanza City, and tried to sell Henry Clark, protected by his fancy
lots in what he described as the "Metro- fence, guards the trail that leads through
polis-to-be" of southern Utah. His de- Buckeye Reef. On the brushy slope,
velopment was not successful. The miners where the town once stood, are a few
rock ruins and under a huge mulberry
and merchants simply moved a couple of
tree is the old Wells-Fargo bank, the only
miles to the north where the land was
building to resist the ravages of time.
free and established a new camp called
Silver Reef. The town is gone, but on hot summer
evenings when shadows crawl from be-
The Post Office was established in
neath the big mulberry and stretch them-
February 1877, and by 1879 almost 3000
selves across the cactus-covered flat, the
people lived in the rip-roarin' camp.
ghosts of Tom Forrest, Mike Carbis, and
Father Lawrence Scanlan, doughty priest all the other citizens of this rip-roarin'
who had looked after the souls of the town parade silently up and down the
Irish-Catholics at Pioche, followed his Grave of Henry Clark guards the trail long-gone board walks of old Silver Reef.
flock to the "Reef" and built a church. through Buckeye Reef. •
May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 7
 'W -*1 ,

Safari Afloat
By Pat Capson

H ISTORIANS HAVE called the In-

dian Wars the last great American
adventure, but I can testify there's still
father's silo as a child and looking up
at the remote blue. Some canyons ended
abruptly and we were forced to back
grows solitary in the red dirt; clumps of
wild daisies bloom brilliant yellow; the
small cactus issues a handful of thorns
some left and I've just had a taste of it. out; some opened up unexpectedly and and a lovely fuschia blossom; the large
With two other couples, my husband sunlight splashed down on a shelf of porcupine-like cactus sends up a spire of
and I spent a long weekend at Lake sand and greenery. The lake will rise an- white flowers. Only the rocks grow great
Powell and we found the beauty and other 200 feet before it is filled to capa- in stature in this country.
adventure that has drawn people to city. As we surveyed the gargantuan We had packed a lunch and now
southern Utah for centuries. scenery, we speculated as to what new yearned for a shady spot in which to eat
Lake Powell is not for the faint- areas this would open up when the it. We found no tree, but a far lovelier
hearted nor the ill-prepared. It stretches beauties we now witnessed were sub- retreat. I suppose you might call it a
for 150 miles and the only supplies (as merged. grotto. To enter it is like entering an
of now) are at Wahweap on the west Rainbow Bridge was our destination air-conditioned room. Water d r i p s
end and Hall's Crossing at the east end. for the first afternoon, so we turned from through the sandstone cliffs above and
It covers countless miles, and stretches a the lake into Forbidding Canyon, and wherever it emerges, clusters of maiden-
little more each day, for this giant is then into Rainbow Bridge Canyon. Here hair fern mark the spot. We sustained
still growing and at maturity will be 185 the channel narrows and stills and the our bodies with sandwiches and our souls
miles long with 1800 miles of shoreline. walls are immensely high. The air is with the sights around us. It was a choice
This lake is like no other lake; this cool and the light subdued as twilight. It moment—one to be remembered and re-
land is like no other land. You cruise is a hushed and lovely chamber and we lived later when life quickened its pace.
for hours, looking, looking, looking. The rode through it slowly and silently. The Rainbow Bridge is to be experienced,
water is wide and deep and for miles channel ends at Rainbow Bridge landing not described. Some react with shrieks of
there's not a handful of shoreline. Where and here we disembarked. Water has delight; others gaze in silent wonder. It
the lake ends, sandstone cliffs begin, filled the canyon to the point where you helps not at all to be told that it is the
looming like ancient Titans, pink and now have about a two mile hike to the greatest natural bridge in the world or
brown and tan and striped; some sculp- Bridge. that the capitol building in Washington,
tured by an artistic nature, some so clean We were blessed with a glorious D.C. could be placed beneath its arch.
and stark they look as if they had been spring day and when the sun beat down In this land of mammoths, you have al-
cut with the swipe of a sword. Each on the red rocks and sand, we knew we ready lost all sense of size and now you
turn reveals a new vista until you feel in- were in the desert. We walked along a lose all sense of time.
adequate to appreciate or react. Each side path of flaked sandstone as fine as face My advice to travelers on Lake Powell
canyon has its own special beauty. Some powder bordered with the tenacious would be to make your plans and always
canyons are so narrow and the walls so shrubs, trees and flowers which have be ready to change them. We had plan-
high you strain to see the sky. It remind- mastered this inhospitable land. The ned to seek the four-pound bass reported
ed me of standing at the bottom of my snow white Sego lily, perfect in form, to be biting somewhere on the lake, but

8 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966

as we prepared to leave Rainbow landing, fishing. Fishermenj please note: If all
a boater arrived with news of turbulence the little fish in Lake Powell grow to be
in the channel. With that we decided
against leaving our snug harbor and with
big fish, it will not be deep enough to
hold them. They came after the lure in
schools and fought each other off for the
Western
the zest of pioneers, began portaging our
the chance to swallow the hook. These
gear up the mountain to a lofty perch.
One area we designated as the kitchen
and set about unloading campstoves,
colorful babies would hardly make suit-
able hors d'ouevres and if they have any
River Trips
stools, pots and pans and the gear civil-
ized people regard as essential in the
wilds. A huge, flat rock-bed of sand-
big brothers and sisters, they are still
there.
There must be exhilaration in landing
*'
stone served as the bedroom and the men a big fish, but after watching my hus-
began blowing up air mattresses and un- band, I have concluded there is more to
rolling sleeping bags. We complimented the sport than that. The true fisherman
ourselves on choosing a magnificent site seems to find restoration in the crystal
. . . we could walk to the edge of the water and the ritual of selecting and pre-
plateau, and see the wide, dark river paring his equipment, casting and reeling
below; we were enclosed in giant, loom- in a hundred times in an afternoon. The
ing cliffs and far above clouds glided impatient man displays infinite patience
slowly across our skylight. Then the in this role. GRAND CANYON, Colorado River M a v 9-21
(31 0 mile run) June 6-1 8
wind came . . . in mischievous, swirling After leaving the San Juan, we headed Sept. 12-24
gusts . . . and air mattresses sailed down Lake Powell to explore more lovely
through the air like balloons, steaks took canyons and perhaps camp at Last Chance CATARACT CANYON, Colorado River June 20-25
flight and fine red sand peppered the Bay. But once again the wind cut short Sept. 26-Oct. 1
potatoes and onions. This is the moment our excursion and changed a pleasant
of truth for the untried camper. For- DINOSAUR NATIONAL MONUMENT
cruise into a choppy ride to be terminated
Yampa-Green Rivers
tunately, our party (half of whom had with all possible haste. We had been
never camped before) was equal to the warned by friends to make our camps SPECIAL MEMORIAL DAY
May 1 6 - 2 0
June 13-17
task. We had brought along the essen- early and now we saw the wisdom of this Run. 3 Days. May 28-30
June 27-July 1
tial ingredient for successful camping, a advice, for great stretches of shoreline $60.00
July 4 - 8
sense of humor. The mattress was pur- are not level enough to hold a sleeping
sued, the steak retrieved and shaken and bag. LODORE CANYON, Green River Mav 1 6 - 2 0
the potatoes given a good stir. We soon We pulled into the first inlet we spied July 4-8
July 2 5 - 2 9
learned that the capricious wind was to and secured our boats. The solid red rock Aua. 8-12
be our companion for the night. felt reassuring beneath our feet and we Aug. 22-26

Darkness comes quickly when the walls made camp at the base of a great cliff DESOLATION CANYON, Green River M a y 2 3 - 2 8
of your sleeping chamber are several hun- which receded at the bottom like the be- June 20-25
dred feet high. And how delicious is ginning of the huge cave. Then we set Oct. 21 - 2 7 , Deer Hunt

repose to the hiker, how long ago the out to do some exploring, on foot. Our
COLUMBIA RIVER, B. C , Canada Aua. 15-20
morning seems, how far away are home first problem was finding a way up and
and responsibility. It is joy to lie flat out of this great stone bowl in which we SELWAY RIVER, Idaho July 1 8 - 2 2
on your back in a snug sleeping bag and had taken shelter, the lowest point in the
look up at huge, dark walls on every surrounding cliffs being the heighth of ROGUE RIVER, Oregon June 27-July 1
side, capped with the twinkle of celestial a wall in a house. The resourceful men
lights. Below, in the dark, the river lap- solved it by constructing a ladder of MIDDLE FORK OF SALMON RIVER, Idaho
July 4-9
ped at the cliffs, rhythmically, intermin- driftwood logs while we laughed at the July 1 1 - 1 6
ably, persistently sculpturing grandeur for thought of some learned group coming July 2 5 - 3 0
A u q . 1 -6
future explorers. upon our "instant artifact" and specula-
On our second morning we "discover- ting about the crudity of the civilization MAIN SALMON RIVER, Idaho July 18-23
ed" Twilight Canyon, Mystery Canyon, which had produced it. After mastering A u g . 8-13
Aua. 29-Sept. 3
and Music Temple. Powell himself this hurdle, we hiked to the top of a Oct. 10-15 (Steelhead run)
named these places and one can sense 200-foot cliff from which we could look
that this one-armed ex-Union major had upon this country, rather than up at it. LAKE POWELL EXCURSIONS May 16-22
June 6-12
the courage of a soldier and the sensitiv- Both perspectives are necessary to appre- June 2 0 - 2 6
ity of a poet. We were aiming for the ciate its vastness. July 1 1-17
A u q . 15-21
San Juan River, still hoping to catch those
That night, if the moon rose at all, it Sept. 12 18
elusive (perhaps legendary) big bass.
rose unheralded on six unconscious river
Where the great wide canyons have
rats. The next morning we headed for For reservations, information and
filled with water, Lake Powell becomes
indistinguishable from its off-shoots and Wahweap, 50 miles away, frustrated over brochures, call or write:
were it not for the buoys which mark the so much we were leaving undone, unseen.
main channel, you could easily detour in- And yet, has anyone ever left this land Western River Expeditions
numerable times. At last we turned into feeling otherwise? Surely not. You must
1699 East 3350 South
the San Juan and found a cove suitable come back again and again. Salt Lake City, Utah 84106
for swimming, tanning and, hopefully, And so must we. • Phone A.C. 801 484-4006

May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 9

 Back Country Pop Art

By Rell E. Francis
PON OBSERVING these strange he'd seen, he'd have an easier time con-
U monuments against a Utah sky, an
amateur archeologist would believe he'd
vincing you of the "big ones" he failed
to catch in nearby Fish Lake.
On the other hand, he apparently likes
to display his art where it can be seen
by motorists. Part of his enjoyment is
discovered a New World Stonehenge, The truth is, they are the achievement watching the tourists "explore and
perhaps, or a primitive aqueduct, while of a solitary sheepherder, Lorenzo Lar- puzzle" over his creations. "I've had a
a curious tourist coming from Arches sen of Glenwood, Utah. Larsen, a 55- good time watchin' a dad arrange his
National Monument might suspect he'd year-old bachelor, built hundreds of these wife and kids in the windows of my
come upon an undiscovered natural won- rock sculptures over a period of 20 years rockwork and grind away with a movie
der. On closer inspection, though, an- while tending his flocks, but only recent- camera," he chuckled. "Once I spied a
other thought might occur to him. Were ly, when he happened to erect one visible couple of black and white specks moving
these strange sculptures the work of a from the road to popular Fish Lake re- up the hill. Turned out to be two nuns.
jaded pop artist seeking new expression? sorts, were his activities recognized by They stopped before some laid-up rock
However he might try to explain what the public. and made the sign of the cross. I hadn't

Resembling ancient structures, these monuments crest

the Parker Mountain summit above the junction of
Utah highways 24 and 25 between Sigurd and Loa
and may be seen en route to Utah's popular fishing
resorts at Fish Lake.

10 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966

realized 'til then that the rocks looked
fike a crucifix."
Ordinarily Ren has no particular sub-
Water Producing Survival Kit
ject in mind. "When I run across some NEW PROCESS PRODUCES 1 TO 2
good flat rocks I start piling them up and
QUARTS OF PURE WATER DAILY
mostly work for good balance. Occa-
sionally I see something that appeals to IN DRIEST DESERT
my imagination and develop it into a A Reusable kit for Survival and a
figure . . . like that teapot up there or
that one over yonder that looks like an
old lady in a rockin' chair." Larsen be-
lieves his rock building ideas come about
TILL Fascinating Experiment for the Young
Scientist. Easy to install and operate.
Send Check or Money Order plus 25c postage to:
because of his early experience when he
helped his dad supply the stone for many Complete DESERT MAGAZINE
Palm Desert, California 92260
of the homes in Glenwood. His well-
proportioned monuments, erected on pri-
Kit $2.49 California residents add 10c sales tax.

vate rangeland, are characterized by a

main pillar with attached lintel stones
that branch out to form pleasing con-
tours and negative shapes.
"Rough it" the easy way with a
The local forest ranger refuses to
allow Ren to build his rocks on the gov-
KAMP-STOR BODY!
ernment land. "It's not that I don't like
them, but we've got enough rock in the
forests now," he complains. Actually,
Ren does not have to haul the rock far; it
is plentiful on the hilltops.
Lorenzo has had no formal art train-
ing, but a study of his creations indicate
a natural sense of composition and aesthe-
tic sensitivity. He has some musical talent
as well. Once he won third place in an
amateur contest by playing a tune with
an aspen leaf placed between his tongue
and teeth.
Other herders think he is nuts for stay-
ing out in the hot sun messing with Model 9854 Kamp-Stor Body for %-ton truck
with 54" C.A. Rear bumper is optional equipment.
rocks, but Lorenzo reasons that "sittin'
around one day seems like two weeks.
When I lay up rock I lose all sense of
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Once he outspelled a college student." every camping trip a real pleasure! locks keyed alike.
Although well read and conversant The rugged Koenig Kamp-Stor gives • Drip moldings and weather strip-
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world problems and politics. Larsen is a
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symbol of the vanishing frontier man load and unload gear at every camp- spare tire, guns, folding chairs,
who lived close to the land. While some site . . . all supplies are always right picks, shovels, etc.
may consider his efforts trivial, others at your fingertips just where you Write or call today for free literature
may covet his uncomplicated existence, stored them in the Kamp-Stor. And and the name of your nearest
realizing that the true measure of a man's take a look at these quality features! Koenig distributor.
success is not his position or wealth, but • All-steel body electrically welded
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May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 11

 Trial By Fire
By George Thompson
T HE MOUNTAINS of Park City
have produced treasure for nearly
a century, but now a new treasure, un-
Utah, were first appreciated by Parley
Pratt while enroute to Salt Lake Valley
in 1847 with Brigham Young. He quickly
suspected by old-timers, is beginning to laid claim to the area and named it Par-
be realized. Broad highways from Salt ley's Park. Then, five years later, he tra-
This once fabulous mining Lake City focus on Park City and tour- ded it to Samuel Snyder and Jedediah
camp is now one of Utah's ists speeding along U. S. Highways 30 Grant for a yoke of oxen. The Snyder
and 40 turn off after reading signs ad- family farmed, built a sawmill and, as
most fashionable summer - vertising Treasure Mountains attractions. they multiplied like the Lord told them
winter resorts. Mining took wealth from these mountains to, they established new farms and popu-
and carried it to distant cities. Now tour- lated the valley which became known as
ism is bringing it back. Snyderville. Snyder reportedly discovered
The meadows north of Park City, ore in the foothills of the valley, but

Park City goes up in flames in 1890. Ontario Mill in Park City. First business building erected after fire.

12 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966

Brigham Young discouraged mining started by James Schepback the same year.
among his followers, so it wasn't until It is now published as the Park Record
the end of 1868 that the first claim was and is Utah's oldest weekly newspaper.
filed in what later became known as the
Park City Mining District. This claim was
In 1881 a telephone communication was
instituted and two years later the first Tag-a-Long
the Young American Lode and a year school was built by the Ontario Com-
later its first shipment consisted of 40
tons of ore.
pany to accommodate children living in
the canyon. Following that a number of Tours
In 1872 Rector Steen, Augustus Da- parochial schools sprung up below the OPENING THE WEST'S NEWEST
well, James Kane and Herman Budan canyon, as the Mormon influence ran sec- S C E N I C WONDERLAND . WITH
made camp where they'd been prospecting ond to the high percentage of Irish- COMFORTABLE F O U R - WHEEL
west of Lake Flat. By a spring near camp, Catholic miners. DRIVE STATION WAGONS.
Steen discovered an outcrop of ore, later —Completely Air Conditioned—
The Ontario Company encountered Now furnishing a variety of tour-
said to be so small it could be covered serious water problems right from the guide services into the fabulous
with a hankerchief. Steen located this out- start. In 1888 a three-mile tunnel was Canyonlands of Southeastern Utah,
crop as the Ontario No. 37. At the same started to connect with the 1500 foot including:
time, George Hearst, a San Francisco level of the shaft. Work was started
mining engineer and father of William Grand, San Juan, Emery, Wayne,
from both ends, the surface end called Garfield and Kane Counties
Randolph Hearst, was in McHenry Can- Camp Florence. It was completed when
yon examining some claims. Hearst de- and
the workings met six years later. It was
cided against buying these because of so straight that daylight shone from the CANYONLANDS
difficulties encountered with under- portal to the shaft.
ground water flows. However, he noticed
Before the tunnel was completed, the
NATIONAL PARK
Steen's camp as he crossed into Ontario
Ontario installed what was not only one
Canyon from Lake Flat and stopped to
visit. Steen showed Hearst his ore out- of the world's largest pumps, but also
crop and when Hearst expressed interest a marvel of engineering. This pump,
the two entered into negotiations. Within known as the Cornish pump for the
a month the sale was consummated for Cornish men who built it, had a fly-
$27,000. After that the Ontario produced wheel 30 feet in diameter which weigh-
more than $50 million and paid divi- ed 70 tons and had a connecting rod
dends in excess of $15 million. This 1060 feet long, built of Oregon pine
small outcropping was one of the few ore with each section joined by bolted iron
outcrops in the Park City district and the plates. The connecting rod hung sus-
story illustrates what an important part pended in the shaft and operated the
chance played in the establishment of pump. The pump had a single piston
ANGEL ARCH
the camp. 20 inches in diameter and a 10-foot
Arch Opening is 190' High and 163' Wide
stroke. Power was supplied by steam
As its fame spread, miners moved in boilers whose fires consumed most of
from other areas. Cabins were built the timber on surrounding hills. After TWO DAILY TRIPS
against canyon walls and shacks were they were denuded, teamsters hauled HORSEBACK TRIPS
erected along Silver Creek for several wood from Strawberry Valley, some 50 CAMPING TRIPS
miles. A group of Scotch miners built miles distant, by wagon and team. The
a small settlement around the shores of initial cost of the pump was $110,000 ALL EXPENSE PACKAGE TOURS
Lake Flat. Each home had a pier from with installation charges raising the over-
which residents rowed rafts across the all cost to §250,000!
lake to visit neighbors. This lake has
In 1889 Thomas Kearns and David
since been drained by underground min-
Keith leased a group of claims which
ing operations and now contains water
only when snow melts in the spring. were later to become the fabulous Silver
King Mine. It is said that Kearns walked
As miners and prospectors congregated, into Park City without a cent to his name.
the settlement became loosely known as He met Keith, an old friend he'd known
Parley's Park City, later abbreviated to in Nevada, who was foreman for the On-
Park City. The number of miners in- FOR COMPLETE INFORMATION, FILL OUT
tario, and the two leased several claims. COUPON, WRITE OR CALL:
creased as new claims were developed One of these became the Silver King and
and new homes were built near the TAG-A-LONG TOURS
it was reported that from a hole only 200
mouths of the canyons in which the mines 156 North First West
feet deep, over two million dollars was Moab, Utah
were located. These were the first per-
recovered in high grade silver. Since that Phone: Area Code 801, 253-4346
manent establishments in Park City.
time the Silver King has produced ore
In 1879 George Snyder's daughter valued in the hundreds of millions of Send Tag-A-Long Trips Information to:
died. The miners had made no provision dollars and paid dividends of more than Name
for a burial site so Snyder presented the $35 million. Kearns was later elected Address
new camp with a 40-acre cemetery. The U.S. Senator from Utah.
City
city was incorporated in 1880 and a news- Some two dozen millionaires were
paper, the Park Mining Record, was State , Zip Code
made by the mines at Park City. The

May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 13

 camp's eventual production exceeded the mud roads were paved, modern power
$400 million with over $75 million paid ana water lines were installed and DcWcr
in dividends. The mines contained over fire fighting equipment purchased. The
100 miles of underground workings and camp became a city.
were served by three separate railroads, Park City suffered ups and downs dur-
two standard gauge and one narrow ing the following years. Fires struck
gauge. Much of this wealth made its way often, causing serious damage, and labor
to Salt Lake City where silver barons strikes of long duration and great cost
A YEAR 'ROUND built showplaces along South Temple were endured. Low metal prices during
DESERT RESORT Street, known as millionaires' row. Fine the lS^Os combined with rising costs
business buildings were constructed which closed all but the largest mines. The fa-
ON SPACIOUS
still stand, among them the Kearns Build- mous Ontario and Silver King consoli-
LANDSCAPED GROUNDS ing, Keith Building, Judge Building and dated with other properties to form the
the Tribune Building. Park City became United Park City Mining Company. This
• Golf Privileges one of the most famous mining camps in and the New Park Mining Company,
• Two Heated Pools the West and its population rose to organized during the 1930s, are the only
10,000. Then tragedy struck. companies of consequence now being
• Hydro-Therapy Pool At 4:00 a.m. on a Sunday morning in operated and they employ less than 200
June of 1898, a Chinaman reported miners. Residents moved away to find
• Continental Breakfasts
smoke billowing from the kitchen of the new jobs and business houses closed their
• Daily, Weekly, Monthly American Hotel. The night policeman doors. It appeared that time would take
Rates fired three shots to arouse sleeping citi- the toll that fire could not. But Destiny
zens and within minutes the whistle atop had other plans!
the Marsac Mill was shrieking a warning.
WRITE FOR FREE BROCHURE Although large deposits of mineral yet
Prevailing South Canyon winds carried
remain underground, it's doubtful that
the flames to adjoining buildings and by
mining will be responsible for Park City's
The Adobe 4:30 four buildings were kindled in
future. A number of factors combined to
flames. Special trains of fire fighting
Highway 74 revive the old town, not the least of
equipment were dispatched from the
Palm Desert, California which is snow! Ecker Hill, located some
towns in the lower valleys, but arrived
10 miles north of town, was at one time
-•r Area Code 714 346-6185 too late to stop the fire. Flames grew
a famous ski jump and Otto Carpenter, a
higher and in-rushing winds increased
long time resident, has operated Snow
their intensity, carrying hot coals and fire-
Park, a ski lift and winter sports area on
brands onto buildings behind the fire
the east side of town for many years. The
fighters. Intense heat made it impossible
real re-birth of Park City, however, was
for the firemen to get water hoses to
brought about recently by the federal gov-
where they were most needed and it soon
ernment through its Area Redevelopment
became obvious drastic measures must be
agency. This agency granted large loans
taken if any part of the town were to be
to the United Park City Mining Com-
saved.
pany to build a year-round sports resort
Dynamite was then brought from the on its properties. With this, a spectacu-
mines and helpless residents stood by as lar new ski lift, the longest gondola ride
their homes and business houses were in the nation, was built, a golf course laid
blown up to stop the flames advance. out, and the old Spiro mine tunnel re-
With the fire finally under control, over timbered to carry skiers and tourists deep
200 dwellings and business houses had into the heart of the mountains from
been destroyed, among them the Grand where they are lifted to a surface high
Opera House, the City Hall, several above the city by the Thaynes Shaft hoist.
banks and churches, and some 27 saloons. From here they can either ski back to
Homes on Rossie Hill were consumed town or ride a lift to a modern restau-
and Park Avenue had vanished. Nothing rant perched atop Crescent Ridge. Several
remained of Chinatown. beautiful hotels have been constructed
Almost before the ashes were cold, and others are planned. This vast recrea-
people began cleaning up the charred tion complex, known as The Treasure
remains. Tents were erected and relief Mountains, has spawned new restaurants,
committees helped the homeless and hun- quaint shops and night clubs, new homes,
gry. Although assistance was offered and a condominium apartment building.
from all over the West, the citizenry of Even with all this, prospects look prom-
ising for more.
Park City preferred to rebuild themselves
and soon a new city rose on the ashes Those who held faith with this unusual
of the old, better in all respects. Com- community during its low days, now point
fortable homes replaced shanties and with pride at their new boom town. Park
business buildings of brick and stone re- City, they say, survived its "Trial by
placed old wooden structures. Eventually Fire!" •

14 / Desert Magazine / May, 1 966

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 NewRoadtoZion
by Frank Jensen

OMETIME BEFORE the summer of red, depending on its mineral content, it of centuries ago, it was a crooked, nar-
S 1967 the National Park Service will
open a brand new section of Zion Nation-
is the great cliff and arch maker in Zion,
and, in the Kolob section, has carved the
row canyon like all the rest of Zion. Then
the mouth of the canyon was blocked by
al Park to the vacationer. This, the Kolob world's largest natural arch. This par- a landslide and filled with sand. Hop
section, covers about 76 square miles of ticular arch, located in a side canyon of Valley is so different from other canyons
canyon and mesa country in southwestern La Verkin Creek, measures 3lvfeet at of Kolob Terrace that the sight is start-
Utah. The grading of a new road—which the base- and is 332-feet high—some 32 ling. Its stream emerges from the sand at
penetrates six miles of the Kolob—is all feet higher than Rainbow Bridge. the head of the valley, meanders lazily
but complete, while the black top is ex- South of Kolob Arch, Gregory Butte across the flat sand-filled bottom and
pected to be laid down by next fall. The towe-rs 2,500 feet above La Verkin then disappears again into the sand at
road leaves busy interstate highway 13 Creek. Named for Dr. Herbert E. Greg- the foot of the valley. The new road will
about mid-way between St. George and ory, the first man to scientifically survey cut the distance to the Kolob Arch in
Cedar City; clings for a quarter of a the Kolob, it was described by him in half, making it a 12 rather than a 24 mile
mile to the eroded slopes of the Hurricane- 1936 as follows: "If only one spot in hike in and out. Hop Valley, too, will be
Cliffs, then follows the middle fork of Utah and Arizona were available as a accessible in a single day to the rugged
Taylor Creek a mile or so before swing- platform for a lecture on the geology of hiker.
ing south toward Lee Pass. It terminates the Colorado Plateau Country, I think I There are two Kolob views which you
two miles beyond Lee Pass at an overlook would choose Kanarra Mountain where can see from an automobile without
of the Finger Canyons of the Kolob the sedimentary series (Kaibab to Wa- waiting until 1967. One is from the- farm-
Terrace. satch) is in sight, where the Great Basin ing village of New Harmony, west of the
The entire route is impressive. Once topography abuts against the plateau to- Zion turn-off, and not far from the place-
atop the first ridge, great butresses of the pography, and where the erosion, the where John D. Lee once tilled the soil.
Finger Canyons rise above the horizon faulting, and volcanism characteristic of The other is from Death Point. You must
like the prows of rocky ships. These fin- the plateau province could be discussed have a burning desire to explore the
gers mark the edge of the Kolob Terrace, and illustrated with nearby examples."
Kolob to take the ride to Death Point.
a 7,000-foot highland, as well as the The Virgin River and its tributary To get there, follow a dirt road that
western limits of the plunging cliffs, iso- streams (La Verkin Creek in the Kolob) climbs the face of the plateau south of'
lated mesas, natural arches, bridges, and are the principal sculptures of the Zion Kanarraville (another small farming
deep, narrow canyons of the Colorado region and each year carry away billions town 13-miles south of Cedar City),
Plateau Province itself. Although there- of tons of ground up rock. Most of this take the first turn to the- right after driv-
are no developed trails into the 1600- wearing away occurs during the spring ing several miles, then proceed south
feet deep Finger Canyons at the present run-off or late summer flash floods. The across a bench known as the Buck Pas-
time, foot paths are planned in the over- rest of the year these- streams are placid ture. In the seven miles between the
all development program. affairs flowing from one emerald pool turn-off and the end of the road there-
Lee Pass is the finest viewing platform to another. La Verkin Creek may be are exactly eight gates, most of them
for the Finger Canyon area. From this reached by either foot or horseback via
barbed wire, and all must be opened and
ridge you can see the three forks of Tay- an established trail running through the
closed. The road is rough and best suited
lor Creek, Naguant and Timber Top— entire Kolob section of the park. The
to a pick-up truck or jeep. It ends abrupt-
two isolated mesas which are virtually canyon bottom is lush with plant life and
ly at the head of a box canyon. To reach
islands in the sky, and look down into crystal clear springs seeping from cracks
the point, you must walk another mile
Timber and La Verkin Creeks, the prin- in the porous sandstone while in the slit-
cipal drainages to the south. Lee Pass along a rough trail sometimes blocked
like side canyons cliffs are festooned with
was named for John D. Lee, an early with a tangle of oak brush and manzan-
vegetation like hanging gardens. Above-
Mormon Settler who participated in the- ita. The view from Death Point, however,
La Verkin Creek, however, stark,massive
infamous Mountain Meadow Massacre. is magnificent, and worth the effort it
walls of Navajo Sandstone dominate the
Lee used the Kolob as- a hiding place takes to get there. From this one- vantage-
landscape and remind you that the desert
during the investigation of the massacre. point it is possible to look down on Ko-
is neve? completely lost.
The dominant formation of Lee Pass lob Arch, or across La Verkin canyon to
East of Arch Canyon, with its huge Gregory Butte, Timber Top Mesa and
is Navajo Sandstone, a cross-bedded rock
natural span, the trail leaves La Verkin Hop Valley—a breathtaking sight which
which in the Finger Canyon area is 2,000-
Creek. One fork leads to Willis Creek befits the grandeur of the Kolob. It was
feet thick. The Navajo was laid down in
an ancient, wind-swept desert covering and the top of the Kolob. The other probably a panorama such as this that
parts of six states at a time when dino- crosses an ancient landslide into Hop caused an early Mormon to name this
saurs dominated the earth. Varying in Vallev. HOD Valley is another phenome- country the Kolob for, freely translated,
color from white to salmon or brilliant non of the Kolob. At one time hundreds it means "Near the Throne of God." •

16 / Desert M a g a z i n e / May, 1966

 GOLDEN SPIKE
730* C^? B B I D C E B Take time to discover
BEAR
EMPIRE
Logan
LAKE
10 distinctive areasin

UIHH!
Brigham City

Morgan

E 1CITY i doming
Manila JR eGAo r ea eo' .
£
GREAT Kings Peak _„.
13 498 I Dinosaur
COUNTRY Heber City ' ^ Vernal V Nat'l Mon.
Tunpagnegos Cave N.M.
UTAH •* I Pro
LAKE

DINOSAUR

WSTLE
iOUNIRV

Capitol Reef
Nat'l Mon. ksville
NQRAMA | LAND

Cedar C i t y ^ ^ 1 Panguitch
Cedar Breaks* — v . y- Escalante
Nat'l M o n Q ^r ,
8y
( ) Glen Canyon

One of America's last frontiers, much of the Beehive State is unmapped and little known. Whether
traveling over its highways, exploring the back country by 4-wheel drive or horseback, or boating on
its many rivers and lakes you will find the scenery and the moods of Utah changing every mile and
every hour of the day. Once you have visited Utah you will want to return to this Land of Scenic
Contrasts. For detailed information on all areas of Utah write to the Utah Travel Council, Dept. D,
Council Hall, Capitol Hill, Salt Lake City, Utah 84114.

May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 17

 The Outlaw Trail of Robbers Roost
ROUND THE turn of the century evening cup of coffee, that Art mentioned
A the "Wild Bunch," led by Butch
Cassidy, rode the Outlaw Trail from
the Outlaw Trail. To one who needs but
the slightest excuse to fly from Pennsyl-
to the name the Major gave it. The Old
Trail follows the river for many miles,
crossing and re-crossing, each time
Hanksville to the Green River and, when vania to that empty land of blue sky and through muddy water that hid the treach-
the posses were close, on beyond. The far off horizons, the most casual reference erous sandy bottom. Art's long experi-
trail across Hell Hole leads to a sand to anything as romantic as an Outlaw ence enabled him to pick the riffles and
slide that drops down to the Dirty Devil Trail provided more than adequate we crossed without seriously bogging
and, after half a dozen quicksand cross- excuse. down in the sucking sand. It is always
ings, comes out through Roost Canyon. We met in Hanksville, Dock Marston, interesting to watch the ground begin to
At the head of the canyon, where the Oliver Johnson and I. Dock and I have wave under the weight of slowly walk-
eroded mesa drops away, a lone chimney ing horses. Experienced animals know
spent many nights at the head of the
marks the site of Robbers' Roost, between what it means and move quickly before
great rapids of the Colorado River, our
Hanksville, Utah and the Green River. the hard shell breaks.
minds filled with the thrill of the day to
At a horse's walk, it is two hours from follow. When we come together we It was cold, with a strong wind, and
the Robbers' Roost to the Roost. It is bring excitement with us for we know we shivered under our jackets. Anticipa-
there that Art and Hazel Ekker and their that the morrow will find us following ting rain, we made camp early in Roost
son, A. C, live and run a ranch that new trails. So now we saddled and took Canyon. By 4:30, with dinner over, the
spreads over 136 square miles of mesas, off on a new adventure. rain descended. Rain gives movement and
buttes and arroyos and rims the canyons I was mounted on a horse I soon knew life to sun-baked, slumbering slickrock.
that mark the western bank of the Green. I would thoroughly enjoy. "Old Red" But rain isn't only a thing of beauty. As
It was there also that Hazel and Pearl they called him, though he was only we watched, it followed the roof of our
Biddlecome learned to ride and rope with eight years old, a rich red color, 16 overhang, inching its way closer and
the best of them and to regard the visits hands with plenty of bone and an intelli- closer to where we huddled. Soon we lost
of the Wild Bunch and the posses as gent eye. It means a lot on a nine day all interest in its aesthetic qualities. Some-
equally exciting and equally welcome. trip to like the horse you will be living time during the night, it stopped.
Pearl married and moved on to another with. We were all well mounted. Art is
After a typical Ekker trail breakfast—
world. Hazel married Art and together justifiably proud of his remuda.
2 eggs, four pancakes, three or four
they have turned a few waterholes and
an occasional clump of grass into a suc- Our first drop from the flat mesa slices of bacon and black coffee, we
cessful spread. Art and I met in 1963 country was into Dry Valley Wash. From saddled and rode down Roost Canyon
when we rode and jeeped together on there we crossed Meadow Gulch and, almost to the Dirty Devil, then climbed
an exploratory trip in land we hoped rising again, rode the mesa across Hell out and followed the rim of the South
would one day be a national park. It was Hole to the Dirty Devil. Dropping down bank. Where Roost Canyon joins the
then, along about the fourth or fifth the sand slide, we found it still lives up river, there stands a Navajo sandstone

Outlaw Cave at Robbers Roost Cleopatra's Chair and Elaterite Butte.

18 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966

 Horses water at tank at head of Horsethief Canyon

By Frank Mas/and, Jr.

formation, its red wall rising 500 feet,

its graceful curve shaped by the bend of
the river. Gradually we worked our way
over intricately cross-bedded, slickrock
and up through several gravel chimneys.
We climbed the Angel Trail, so named
because some ancient wit remarked that
wings were needed, to where it peaks out
on the flat mesa range on which Art's
cattle graze and over which we rode to
Art's Roost Ranch, our home for the
night—another 15 miles behind us.
Sunsets and sunrises at the Roost
Ranch are sights long to be remembered.
Far off in the Northwest there is just a
shining glimpse of a rosy stream that
seems maligned by the name of Dirty
Devil, until you try to hike it. Straight
out from the ranch, across a vast expanse
of mesa country dotted with occasional
buttes, loom the snowy peaks of the
Henrys, each wearing a pink nightcap.
It was still cold. With reluctance we tore
ourselves from the warmth of the Roost
the next morning and rode out again
around bald knobs and over slickrock to
the junction of Clyde Canyon with
Horseshoe. Clyde isn't much of a canyon,
but just over the rim there is a small
cave and in that cave are interesting
petroglyphs and a prehistoric stone box.
Precariously and inhospitably situated,
we wondered what motivated its ancient
artist to choose that site.
There is a live stream in Horseshoe
Canyon and we followed its sandy bottom
a mile or so to a group of excellent Free-
mont Culture petroglyphs. The primitive
artist's stone canvas stretches for a 100
feet above a ledge that was easily reached
from the Canyon floor. Ascending from
Horseshoe to the Upper Pasture, we
rode for an hour and a half before mak-
ing camp on a juniper studded hill. Sand
gave way to slickrock, which sloped off
in undulating waves and disappeared
into the canyon. On the high mesa it had
been so cold that we were glad to walk
our horses, or drop into an arroyo out of
the wind. Later, as I lay in my bed under
the arms of a juniper, the overcast sky
melted away and one by one stars peeked
through. This was the end of the grey,
cold days. From then on the nights would
Continued on page 38

May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 19

Three of the largest trees
of their species occur
within a 30-mile radius
in Utah.

SENTINELS OF THE CACHE

By John D. Hunt

PARIS

BLOOMINGTON I
•
L IKE SENTINELS guarding t h e
grandeur of the Cache National
Forest in Utah and Idaho stand three
longer the largest Englemann spruce
(Picea englemunnit),
United States.
recorded in the

of the largest trees of their species in Sixty-seven miles from Logan, Utah,
* the Intermountain Range. Until recently, tourists may see these trees as each one
SPRUCE
these three trees were thought to be the stands only a short distance from U. S.
ST CHARLES largest and oldest of their species on Highway 89, the popular tourist route
record. However, it is now rumored one between Yellowstone National Park and
will have to step down in favor of a Salt Lake City. Although each tree is
new "King of the Englemann Spruce" in close to the highway, a day's time is
Oregon. Nevertheless, Old Juniper and necessary to contemplate the beauty and
IDAHO Mountain Monarch, the other two, still uniqueness of the three.
UTAH maintain their stature.
Leaving Logan and heading east on
Located within 30 miles of one an- U. S. 89, the first one to visit is Old
other, in a part of Utah not noted for its Juniper, the Rocky Mountain red cedar.
large trees or extensive forests, magesti- The trek to the tree is an adventure in
cally stand the largest Rocky Mountain itself. A trail runs along rock ledges and
red cedar (Juniperus scppulorum) and up moderately steep inclines above the
limber pine (Pinny flexilis) on record in canyon floor, but the two-hour hike re-
the United States. Farther north into quires an effort amply rewarded upon
Idaho, still within 30 miles, stands the arrival at the site. Like a rugged moun-
largest of the three trees, although no tain man who inhabited the area 150
years before, Old Juniper stands, gnarled
SALT LAKE
Left is Mountain Monarch. Beloiv is sec- and confident, on a rocky limestone ledge
1 ond largest Englemann spruce in the overlooking beautiful Logan Canyon. Its
iv or Id. approximately 3,500 years of age are be-
ginning to show. However, its 26-foot
8-inch circumference and 45-foot height
leave no question of doubt that Old Juni-
per deserves his place as king of the
Rocky Mountain red cedars. Rocks, cliffs
and flora below provide a breath-taking
panorama.
Leaving Old Juniper and arriving back
at the highway, you drive only 19 scenic
miles to reach a short trail to the large
limber pine. This is known as the
Mountain Monarch. Here, at 8,000 feet,
is the summit of the mountains—differ-
ent species and environment than just 19
miles back where stood the first sentinel
of the Cache.
At the highway is a large marker de-
signating the Limber Pine Trail. There
you may pick up a self-guided tour bro-

20 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966

"Old Juniper" is the largest of its species in the world.

May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 21

 chure and embark upon a thrilling ad-
venture in ecology. In 1962, in coopera-
tion with the U. S. Forest Service, Pro-
"SINCE 1931" fessor S. Ross Tocher, of Utah State Uni-
versity, developed a self-guided interpre-
le Home tive trail to the Mountain Monarch. Fol-
lowing this improved trail, you can hike
h Iratel Italtet to the tree and return in one hour. The
trail follows a moderated grade along
ELEVEN MODELS 1 6 FT. TO 3 5 FT. the fire, pine and sage of the south ridge
and returns through aspen and mountain
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the way.
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Located in "The Center" (across from the Desert Inn), The Moccasin Shop offers one of the largest
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stands like a giant hand with each finger
the size of a respectable limber pine
MOCCA/IM tree. Although, like many a grand lady,
the tree has never yielded her actual age,
it is safe to say she has been standing on
the summit of the Wasatch Mountains for
more than 2,000 years.
Back at the foot of the trail and con-
tinuing along highway 89, you find
around the first curve one of the striking
scenes in northern Utah. Some 3,000 feet
below is beautiful Bear Lake. Due to the
high carbonate content of the water,
when viewed from above the beautiful
blue of the lake is unparalleled by any
other body of water. Although not widely
known, it provides a multitude of rec-
reational activities.
Turning north at Garden City, Utah,
the highway follows along the edge of
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22 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966

 Weaving through the
Four Corners Country,
the Anasazi Trail continues to reveal
unknown cities. Here the author
tells of new discoveries.

THE ANASAZI TRAIL

by MEL LEWIS
OR ABOUT 25,000 years, if archeo-
F logical dating methods are correct,
the magnificent charm of the Southwest
has been infectious to the soul of man.
Of the innumerable ancients who passed
this way, many succumbed to its inex-
plicable beauty and left a monument of
sorts to their passing.
We know of the most ancient ones
only by the discovery of an occasional
projectile point embedded in the fossiliz-
ed bones of a pre-historic animal; or, per-
haps, by a bit of woven vegetable fiber
which has survived in the debris of a
smoke-blackened cave. Evidences of sub-
terranean, or pit houses, tell us of later
arrivals, who left behind beautifully
crafted basketry to tax the imaginations
of archeologists. Even later, but still pre-
historic, people built remarkably engin-
eered communal buildings in the forms of
pueblos and cliff dwellings. Irrigated

Hovenweep Castle and Pueblo del Arroyo

were built by advanced culture.

farms were common and artistic pottery

was in abundance.
Who were these people? Where did
they come from? Why did they leave?
Where did they go?
Archeological study has provided some
of the answers to these questions, but by
no means all of them. These old ones,
or the "Anasazi" as the Navajo calls
them, left no written records, so the his-
tory of their existence must be assembled
bit by bit, piece at a time, a day at a time,
until finally the whole is summed. Our
universities seek tirelessly to fill in this
chapter of our American Heritage and we
aficionados of the desert are in a position
to help.
Those of us who have tasted the plea-
sure of "discovering" a ghost town or a
lost mine have but sampled a breath of
the winds of excitement to be had in the

May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 23

discovery of an untouched ancient ruin ing springs or even dry washes. What- for almost its entire westward course is
many hundreds, or perhaps thousands, of ever form the watercourse takes, prevail- a veritable storehouse of ancient Indian
years old. The real satisfaction in mak- ing climatic conditions may offer one of ruins. Many of these may be visited
ing such a discovery, though, comes with the best clues toward likely ancient habi- without wandering too far from the fam-
the knowledge that you have added a tation. When considering an area for ily auto. Probably the most productive
page to American history. exploration, pose these questions. Will and easily accessible part of the San Juan
A great many ruins have been discov- the area support primitive farming? begins at its confluence with the Animas
ered already. The most significant have Would it support wild game? Does it River, at Aztec, New Mexico, and along
been re-constructed and stabilized; but offer a moderate variety of edible vege- its westward drainages into the Four Cor-
there are hundreds more yet to be dis- tation ? If the answers are in the affirma- ners country.
covered and some of these will very likely tive, you will not be wasting your time Along the Gila, Verde and Salt Rivers
prove more important than those already in giving the area a serious look. Keep of south and southeastern Arizona, are
known. But where are we to search? in mind, though, that during the early hunting grounds of the highest order.
The Anasazi (old ones) were human Anasazi years, the Southwest is thought The ancient inhabitants of this area were
beings, just as we are. Their needs, to have been considerably more humid called the Hohokam, a Hopi word mean-
however primitive, were as basic as ours. than it is today. So an area too arid to ing the "old ones." Indeed, some of the
They needed water, food and shelter. meet the basic requirements for human most significant archeological finds to
They, therefore, located themselves in sustenance today may have been ideal in date have been located along the drain-
areas which offered the best combinations pre-historic times. In cases like this, a ages of these rivers.
of these things and with the least expen- basic knowledge of geology is a great The Rio Grande, northward from Ele-
diture of effort to acquire them. Gen- help. phant Butte reservoir in New Mexico,
erally, then, such areas will provide the Our major Southwestern watercourses and through to its headwaters in southern
most productive hunting grounds for the and their tributaries are liberally sprinkled Colorado, offers excellent examples of
searchers of prehistoric habitations. with pre-historic ruins, although some restored ruins, as well as fine possibilities
Locations which offer the best com- rivers seem to have held a greater attrac- for new discoveries. As an added attrac-
binations of these conditions are along tion to the Anasazi than others. An out- tion, when exploring along the upper Rio
water courses. A river, a tributary, flow- standing example is the San Juan, which Grande, you will find a few Indian

HARRY GOULDING'S
==-l
llilT 11
=1 =1 = = • El =1 - — - I E^=, =? =

IN THE HEART OF MONUMENT VALLEY

Goulding's Lodge is equipped to serve the most fas-
tidious traveler. There are available ultra-modern
cottages, refrigeration-cooled, radiant-heated, exqui-
sitely furnished with private bathrooms, showers and
baths, plus comfortable auxiliary accommodations to
care for overflow guests. Dining room facilities are
excellent. American Plan. Ranch Style meals.

From the balcony of your room watch the sun rise

and .set as it creates fantastic colors on the Valley's
weird formations.

VALLEY TOURS SOUTHERN UTAH HEADQUARTERS

Comfortable 4-wheel drive motorized tours specializ- Located on Highway 47, Gouldings and Monument
ing in photographic sightseeing are conducted daily. Valley are on the Arizona-Utah border, 170 miles
Our guides speak Navajo and show you the Indians north of Flagstaff and 23 miles each from Mexican
weaving, tending their sheep and riding their color- Hat and Kayenta. For colorful brochure, or reserva-
ful pinto ponies. Daily tours are timed so you will tions write or call:
get the right color at the right place for photography.
Visitors are taken to hidden valleys within the Valley, GOULDING'S LODGE
to fantastic natural bridges and cliff dwellings, and to Box A-3, Kayenta, Arizona
the most isolated places in Navajoland. Telephone JL7-1172, Car 72, thru Monticello, Utah

26 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966

pueblos which have been inhabited con-
tinuously since pre-Columbian times. PROSPECTORS Put your grubstake on the . . .
The Chaco River, from its birth in GOLD-MASTER Model S63
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May, 1966 / Desert M a g a z i n e / 27

 *n. 0*

•*•**«*„.

Family Advent

By RAYE PRICE then wound up to Dead Horse Point for a responded to Delicate Arch more than
look at the view. But, we didn't just the others. Perhaps it was because of the

T HERE ARE some who think South-

eastern Utah's scenery is inspiration
to adults and boredom to children. They
stand there; we scouted rock specimens
and let everyone take a turn with the
camera to record her personal reaction to
effort expended to reach it or maybe the
way it stood alone to frame snowy peaks
of the distant La Sal Mountains.
roar along freeways towards beaches or the spot. It was at Mexican Hat the girls had
Disneylands, they fill trailers with fishing Next day, we toured Arches National their first taste of Utah jeeping. Jim
rods and water-skis, and vow that the Monument. We stood under Balanced Hunt, operator of the San Juan Trading
only way to family vacation is "go where Rock to get an eerie perspective and Post and a Navajo linguist, took us to
there's plenty of action." matched names on our map with the dis- the Valley of the Gods and entertained
We tried it the other way. A few ex- tant spans . . . but the girls became in- us with names for every redrock statue
periences in back country had taught us trigued with what was close at hand; a from Santa and Rudolph to the Girl in
the satisfactions of bumping along track- palette of vari-colored sand. Not content the Bathtub. We peeked into the deserted
less roads in dusty deserts to ogle wind- with merely admiring the different hues, Lee ranch house (a native stone cottage
carved formations, study prehistoric ruins, they wanted to participate in the desert. which boasted homemade luxuries of fire-
and swallow red dirt with tuna fish sand- K. C. dug through luggage until she- places, running water and a shower, in
wiches on a tail-gate picnic. VX'e were in found a plastic toothbrush case; she plug- its day) and braved the switchback road
the market for a Land Rover and an ad- ged the air-vent with a Band-Aid and set to Muley Point, where we gazed into
venturesome future; we had the expense her sisters to collecting sand samples. four states, silhouetted by Monument
rationalized as an investment in together- They carefully poured one color at a Valley and snaked by the Goosenecks of
ness; all we had to discover was if our time into the transparent vial and ended the San Juan. Now that their imagination
three daughters would agree. I wouldn't with a souvenir destined for our home had been whetted, the girls saw kidney-
say we lowered parental horns and charg- museum shelf. shaped swimming pools where water had
ed, but, could be, we used a little sales- collected in the slickrock's weathered sur-
The 11/2-mile hike to Delicate Arch
manship. face on Muley Point . . . city girls at
was a chance to get the feel of slickrock
heart.
Our maiden voyage was in a Pontiac and appreciate the numerous natural gar-
. . . all the comforts of home. We sped dens of twisted juniper and wild flowers Paradise Valley was our next stop. Jim
down paved highways to Moab, Utah, hidden among the boulders. Somehow, we pointed out steep, rocky San Juan Hill

28 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966

 "Dead World," or into Goblin Valley.
We drove past huge pock-marked boul-
ders which we tabbed Swiss Cheese Rocks;
we skirted pink-feathered T a m a r i s k ,
Prince's Plume, Pentstemmon, and Indian
Paintbrush; around Caineville, the scenery
changed to the drab Mancos formation
"Squaw Skirts."
Fascinating pictographs stopped us on
the edge of the San Rafael Reef, Lurt
pointed out the Hidden Splendor uran-
ium mine, and we picnicked in the Sinbad
Desert below Honda Arch. A trip we
feared might seem too long with too
much driving to suit the girls, resulted in
an enthusiastic journey into awareness
for them . . . nothing was too insignifi-
/« Cow£ Canyon the Price family explored ruins. cant to escape their notice . . . an amazing
fact in such vast country.
with its wagon tracks from the Mormon tured by the name but soon fell into the There was little question where we'd
pioneers' treacherous ascent still visible. trap of all Southern Utah visitors . . . at- go the next day; once the name Goblin
Because he was acquainted, Jim intro- tempting to identify the sandstone strata. Valley was mentioned, the girls decided.
duced us to a Navajo family and the girls We decided to get our first bearings by Leaving the Knee Ranch, we took time to
visited the hogan and scampered with kid joining Lurt Knee's Sleeping Rainbow further study the things Lurt had told us
goats. A little further, at the mouth of Ranch tour the first day . . . and were about; colorful Chinle formations which
Comb Wash, we hunted arrowheads, ex- glad we did. Few people know the area as the Indians had labeled Sleeping Rain-
amined petroglyphs, and climbed into In- Lurt, a fact which not only made his tour bow, the bleached domes at Capitol Reef,
dian ruins. Even little Cammy felt giant- interesting, but gave us targets for future sheer desert-varnished walls squeezing the
like in the tiny rooms that used to house- exploring we'd be doing alone. He helped narrow Capitol Gorge, which ends with
prehistoric families. An Easter morning Allyn with her geologic study and ex- a hiker's trail to petroglyphs and a pio-
with Indian pottery "baskets" from the plained, "As we drive from Capitol Reef neer register.
bunny and some of Emery Hunt's hard- to the San Rafael Swell, each layer of
boiled eggs crayon-decorated, completed We'd heard mixed opinions of Goblin
sandstone goes under, one at a time;" we Valley; we were glad we'd decided to see
a delightful first trip . . . and set the could gauge our climb by noticing strata
tone for the next. it for ourselves. While it wouldn't
that had run along cliff tops appearing at
amount to much were it only viewed from
It wasn't OUR Land Rover, but our progressively lower levels.
the observation area, Goblin Valley is
local dealer loaned us one for a trial run. There are 20,000 square miles in the delightful close at hand. It's nature's
If all went well, there'd be a four-wheeler Land of the Sleeping Rainbow. As we sense of humor. We might have looked
in our driveway, soon. This time we head- jeeped down Highway 24, Lurt pointed like idiots climbing around the formations
ed for Capitol Reef and the "Land of the to dirt roads which could take us to Ca- posing on "elephants," "ducks," and
Sleeping Rainbow." Allyn was first cap- thedral Valley, past Factory Butte to the "rocket-ships," but, again, we were parti-
cipating in the desert . . . and that's what
Dick Price prepares lunch for K. C, and Cammy. hooked the children.
We took our time going home. When
there was a sand dune, we played in it;
careful to be sure we were off the Na-
tional Monument, K. C. added to her
cactus collection. There was no compul-
sion to "make good time" and hurry
home.
We have a bright red Land Rover,
now, and we've stocked it with supplies
for OUR kind of sightseeing; a travelling
library for quick reference about rocks,
geology, desert flowers and birds; a
spade to keep K. C. from digging cacti
with bare hands and a whisk broom for
dusting everything from rock specimens
to ourselves; a picnic kit of staples and
first aid supplies in case we "participate"
too enthusiastically. Our maps are for
jeep roads and our horizons unlimited.
Looks as if we've found plenty of action
in the desert. •

30 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966

 [Diesel Land-Rover Favored By 10 Points]

• • . ' • • • . • "

• -- •
••••*• •
• ,,

SSI * :ar»r
S25ess®; j f^*
(1) You can't stop a Diesel Land-Rover
by wetting its ignition system; because:
It hasn't got one. (6) With the throttle set it will hold a constant speed
over uneven ground.
(2) It gets 50% more miles to a gallon of fuel, at (7) Diesels are also well behaved in traffic, because
least. (See 10.) of the constant speed characteristic and non-fade
(3) Its fuel injection unit needs next to no mainte- idling.
nance compared to the usual carburetor-distributor- (8) They run cooler.
spark plug complex. (9) The exhaust emits less carbon monoxide, which
(4) Its valves last longer. Less maintenance again. will interest you if you are public spirited or drive
indoors a lot.
(5) Because the injection unit has a governor it is
impossible to break the engine by over-revving it. (10) Last but not least diesel fuel costs less. This
on top of point number 2 is like adding income to
And for the same reason: inheritance.

The Diesel Land-Rover comes in the familiar aluminum alloy and heavy box frame package, with
8 speeds forward, 2 reverse and 4-wheel drive. For further particulars see a dealer listed below or
write The Rover Motor Co. of N. America Ltd. 10889 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, Calif. 90024.

ARIZONA: Phoenix-Town and Country Chrysler Plymouth/P/-e.scoM-Mangerich Lincoln Mercury/Tucson-hi\\ Edel's Motors.
CALIFORNIA: Encmo-Frank Millard Sports Car, Inc./Pasadena-Pster Satori Co., Ltd./San Diego-British Motor Sales/ West Los
Angeles-Ted's Imported Cars. NEW MEXICO: Alamogordo/Alamo Motorsport, Inc.//4/ftM(7we/-<7«e-Durand Tractor & Equipment Co./
Ga//«p-Navajo Motors, Inc.//?o4'M'e//-Roswell Imported Cars/Truth or Consequences-Ceniml Motors. TEXAS: Austin-Travis County
Equipment Co./Coriicn/ja-Navarro County Tractor Co./Corpus C/jn'.vft'-Gunderland Marine Supply/DaZ/os-Precision Motors/E/ Paso—
Yaqui Motor Co.I Houston-D. B. Allison Co. I San Antonio-The Torgerson Co./Ficton'a-Go-Trac, Inc.
 The Monster-Monster Maker
by BOB HYATT

I F PROFESSOR Elbert H. Porter of

Salt Lake City had his way, horned
toads, gila monsters, lizards and other
casts of two-ton shin bones, and the
fossilized tracks of behemoths that took
30-foot strides, Porter will obligingly fill
son's knowledge of prehistoric natural
history was limited to pictures and mu-
seum bones. Clothe the bones in "flesh,"
desert denizens would be earth-shaking you in on the earth's earliest and ugliest he reasoned, show the animals in their
in size and nightmarish in apearance. wildlife. He'll point out that most of true colossal dimensions, and public in-
In fact, in his "lost world" studio, Is) these long-gone giants have counterparts terest would be captured, which might
miles south of Utah's biggest city, his —little changed in eons of time except in lead to a profitable market for monsters.
crop of monsters is just that—gigantic size—living in our deserts today. He discussed the idea with friends, in-
nightmares. A talented artist, Porter was professor cluding Dr. William L. Stokes of the
Porter, who has the "What's My of sculpture at the University of Utah University's geology department, a recog-
Line" occupation of the world's only full from 1947 to L959, and is a lifetime pal- nized authority on dinosaurs. All agreed
time dinosaur maker, likes his critters big, eontology buff. He got into his unusual there was merit in the idea, and they were
but he sticks to the facts of nature as she- business when there was talk of building willing to back him in setting up a pre-
was. He build life-size creatures which Echo Dam on Utah's Green River some historic animal "factory." Porter decided
roamed the earth millions of years ago years ago. Porter offered to build life- to give up his faculty position and go into
and sells them to a world market. size dinosaurs and place them around the the business full time.
A visit to his cavernous workshop, lake to depict the fauna of the region in He had a good grasp of paleontology,
known as Dinosaur Land, is like a be- prehistoric times. but felt he needed broader knowledge
hind-the-scenes tour of a horror movie That plan fell through, but the pro- of the mammoth subjects he intended to
set. Standing in the midst of his bizarre fessor was "hooked" by a vision of King tackle, so he spent a year visiting mu-
groups in various stages of construction, Kong type animals clomping through a seums, studying scientific journals, and
including small clay and plaster models, modern world. He knew the average per- interviewing leading paleontologists.

32 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966

When he returned from his travels, Dino-
saur Warld was incorporated with 10
board members and about 200 stock-
holders. It was agreed that Porter would
receive a flat fee for each animal he
turned out, an arrangement under which
he still operates. While company details
were worked out, he earned his living as
a free-lance sculptor.
In late 1959, the company opened its
doors in Vernal, Utah's huge dinosaur
graveyard. For 18 months, Porter pro-
duced his monstrous product and set up
exhibits. But the visitor crop proved in-
adequate to sustain the venture. So three
years ago the company purchased a 30-
acre tract and built a studio near Salt
Lake City, which has a large tourist turn- ($25,000) would liven up their dry bone takes 10 months of work, with two or
over. A sort of Disneyland of Dinosaurs collection; a zoo in West Berlin pondered three men on the job. A profit is pos-
was the goal, with 100 different animals over a Diplodocus ($35,OOO-$5O,OOO), sible only when additional orders come
in as near natural settings as possible, an and finally settled for a pair of Proto- in and duplicates, which take only a frac-
"active" volcano, an ancient lake, a ceratops (Si 0,000 each; a public park in tion of the time, are sold. Porter sup-
miniature train ride through the "Age of Rio de Janiero wanted a wooly mammoth plements his income by displaying his
Reptiles," a museum and motel. All of (Si5,000) and an Edaphosaur ($4,000). monsters at other recreational areas and
these things haven't been built, but the Inquiries also arrived from Hollywood. parks around the country with duplicates.
nucleus of this Mesozoic menagerie is Movie makers wanted details about pre- Porter concedes that nobody knows the
now well established. Porter believes it historic animals for possible use in sci- exact conformation and color of the crea-
will eventually become a going tourist ence-fiction thrillers. (Ordinarily, the tures although paleontologists, and sculp-
attraction, but more important, it will "monsters" used in these films are created tors, can come very close to actual repro-
serve as an excellent showcase for his with minature sets and trick photography duction through the study of fossilized
ponderous wares. Prospective buyers can -often with live lizards such as iguanas bones and skin fragments. Then, too, as
select from actual samples. and the monitor variety. But there is a he explains, "We have many living ani-
Soon after Dinosaur World was open- trend now for far-out movies with higher mals that unquestionably resemble those
ed in its new location, and after Porter budgets.) of prehistory—lizards and other reptilian
and three assistants had spent nearly a Orders for items with such jarring types, toads, frogs, bats, to name a few."
year building a Diplodocus, a sales folio price tags never come in batches, but the Porter has for a pet a tiny collared
and price list went out to museums, zoos, volume is increasing, although not to the lizard, which sometimes serves as a model.
colleges, and amusement parks in various point where the company is paying divi- This'fittle chap runs erect on its hind legs
countries, offering prehistoric animals dends. High as they may seem, these exactly as did the giant Tyrannosauraus
built to order in any pose. The response prices include little profit margin when Rex and Allosaurus.
was unexpectedly good. A museum in you consider the time required to turn The monster maker has orders to build
Brussels wanted a Triceratops (Si 5,000); out an animal from scratch. Tyranno- several creatures which will make even
Amsterdam thought a Tyrannosaurus Rex saurus Rex, almost as big as Diplodocus, the Diplodocus seem small by compari-
son. Two of these are the Brontosaurus,
or Thunder Lizard, and the Brachio-
saurus, largest of the dinosaurs, which
stood 48 feet high.
As this is written, Porter is roaming
the San Diego Zoo, one of the world's
largest, doing what everybody does:
looking at the animals—more than 4,000
of 'em. But he's giving them a much
closer look than you or I might. He car-
ries a camera and sketch pad, and what
his eyes miss, the camera catches.
Whatever he learns from these living
beasts will be refleted in his prehistoric
creations, with the result that future pro-
ductions will probably be more lifelike
and more accurately detailed than ever.
So if you're in the market for, say, a
Rhamphorhynchus, hold off for next
year's model. The F.O.B. price will be
$20,000. •

May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 33

 Drifting down Desolation

OURAV 3
wysss
TWJ A'.
rj
V •'-><•

L .- f
A

M
"•<•" ''A' ';» • • • -

-V
g •^
si.
Robert F. Kennedy family), and Desola-
eroded materials and debris. With adoles-
tion Canyon. cent disregard for discipline it makes a
4 • brief side trip into Colorado, then re-
As an amateur river rat and an ardent
turns to Utah where it flirts alternately
admirer of Glen Canyon, I had thought
with mountain and desert. A few miles
occasionally of Desolation Canyon and
i «.
i"""-,,,t more and it abandons the mountains com-
the possibilities it might offer, but never
£*: -! pletely giving itself wholeheartedly to the
generated much enthusiasm for it, prob-
desert. Ceaselessly it moves seaward—
ably because of its dreary name. Then
Ls now calmly, now raging—gouging chasms
last year my 16-year-old daughter, Loye,
' • ; '

so deep that there is little reason to scoff

and several of her schoolmates were
%

'/tfj- ~ "? •nit

at tales whispered, prior to the 1869 ex-
looking for adventure. Suddenly I found
ploration by Major Powell, that for many
myself with a volunteer crew of seven
k t miles the river, like Coleridge's sacred
girls anxious to boat through Desolation
...... JT&y. - Alph, ran underground.
Canyon. A 10-man life raft and a two-
t ,.,

GREEN
/; ^>
RIVER ( - ^
5
Following the initial exploration by man kayak provided river transportation,
Powell's group, a scattering of others so we had plenty of space, even for all
ROU

....

m found unusual beauty and excitement as the odd-shaped containers seven girls
(r—
they pitted their fragile boats against the produced at embarkation time.
T SEEMS to me that there's an over- fury of the cataracts or drifted through
I whelming incongruity in having a
river flow through a desert. What va-
the serenity of Glen Canyon.
But until after World War II the
During the first half of the run the
river
hours
flows smoothly and we spent lazy
absorbing the sights and sounds of
grant whim of nature would juxtapose river was comparatively unknown, seen nature, using barely enough paddlepower
hundreds of miles of searing sand and only rarely by adventurers with experi- to stay inside the ambling current. Then,
lifeless rock? Yet here in the West—as enced guides. With the appearance of the quite abruptly, the river changes its dis-
in some other sections of the world—we war-surplus life raft, however, things position.
have adequate examples of this incon- changed and Glen Canyon, in particular, The first rapids are gentle. There are
sistency. The inscrutable Colorado River was invaded by hundreds of people. But no tricky currents or hidden boulders
is one such paradox. the closing of Glen Canyon Dam brought to create hazards. Loye and I were ex-
Its main branch, the Green River this era to an end, and while the im- hilarated with the sensation of speed as
(Coloradoans may wish to argue the pounded waters of Lake Powell provide we bobbed along in the light, low-lying
point), is constantly in the process of an incomparable recreation area, some kayak, while the others relaxed in the
creation high in the mountains of Wyo- adventuresome spirits still prefer a river rocking-chair comfort of the air-cushion-
ming. But as it regains momentum, after to a lake. ed raft. All agreed that the activity was
having its vigor momentarily checked by For them there are several runs still a welcome change after several days of
Flaming Gorge Dam in northeastern open—under competent guides—such as unbroken smoothness.
Utah, it loses its mountain-stream inno- Cataract Canyon, Canyon of Lodore, I had borrowed a movie camera to get
cence and gathers up a discoloring load of Yampa-Green (recently visited by the some action shots, and it looked like now

34 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966

was the time to put it to use. But since began paddling to overtake us. As the
we had only single-blade paddles, it re- raft gained on us, it became obvious that GOLD BUG
quired both of us to control the kayak. So it would drift by too far away for me to Dry Concentrator.
we had one of the girls transfer from the Hand operated
grasp the lifeline. So I lifted the soggy Ideal for
raft to the kayak, enabling one of us to camera bag and yelled for someone to prospecting,
take pictures while others kept the craft reach out and take it. Unfortunately for pocket hunting
under control. The kayak is an 18-footer or sampling.
me, our grasps failed to connect. The bag 12 Ya lbs. $99.50
with a single open cockpit and a carrying with the cameras immediately disap- f.o.b. Compton
capacity of 500 pounds. We were well peared. Production models
within the bounds of safety—so we inno- available.
In a rare moment of triumph all the Mike Kovacs uses a GOLDBUG—
cently thought. Then we rounded a bend
vivid expressions I had accumulated as a See DESERT, Feb. '66
and met a set of rapids larger than any
G. I. and as a coal miner sprang up, in-
we had yet encountered. Three-fourths
stantly ready for action. Somehow I con- 1966 MODELS
of the width of the river was strewn with
fined myself to the more mild ones
boulders and lodged driftwood, offering
no possibility for clear passage. On the
which, I am sure, helped stimulate the METAL DETECTORS
crew on the raft into synchronized action. FROM $75.00 TO $165.00
other side the main current funneled
Soon they brought it to a position where- FIND ALL METALS, INCLUDING
furiously down a narrow channel. What . GOLD AND SILVER
by I could hang onto it while Loye and
obstacles lurked in the way we had no Top guarantee.
Bonnie acquired a more stable position
opportunity to observe, but since there Sensitive and stable.
on the kayak. Easy to operate.
seemed to be the possibility of a clear run Light and compact.
in that direction, we headed directly into Later examination showed that the
cockpit combing was damaged, and Bon- RAYSCOPES
a long series of leaping waves. and
nie's back bruised, but the misfortune was
During the first plunge, the water in DETECTRONS
slight compared to what it might have
the kayak, which had accumulated to a Write for
been had we not been wearing life jac- free brochures
depth of two or three inches, ran into the kets—or if the raft had not been near.
nose, driving out the pocket of buoyant Three days later, we finished the run, Also Lapidary Equipment, Gems and
air. Then, as we reached the bottom of towing the capricious kayak behind the Minerals, Books, Jewelry, Tools.
the trough, the water-laden nose plowed raft. For Information Write
into the face of the next wave, pouring
All year long it bothered me to think COMPTON ROCK SHOP
gallons of murky water over us. This 1405 S. Long Beach Blvd., Compton, Calif.
pattern was repeated as we sloshed into about the unnecessary capsize, and when Telephone: 632-9096
the next trough. Now, however, the nose several young people expressed an in-
was so heavy with water that it hardly terest in running the river this year, I maneuverable even in the largest waves
rose at all and we, waist deep in chill started making plans for another trip. On and trickiest currents. The run was plea-
water, partially submarined through the this one I was determined to ride the santly successful.
next wave. kayak through all the rapids. I'm convinced that under the super-
However, I took the precaution of vision of an experienced river guide (not
Though completely swamped, the
lashing a large inner tube to each end and me, ladies, I'm a rank amateur), Deso-
kayak bore the combined weights of the
stuffing a smaller tube inside each end so lation Canyon has the makings of a good
three of us, and it seemed for a moment
we would still have buoyancy even if we family run—outstanding scenery, lazy
that all we must do was remain headed
swamped. Also, once we hit the rapids I sunning along the quiet stretches, excite-
downstream until we could find a landing
insisted that we pull ashore at the bottom ment enough through the rapids, and
place. Then, suddenly, it filled with water
of each set and bail out water that had adequate solitude to allow the rare oppor-
and began to roll. I leaned to the opposite
accumulated. There were times I wished tunity for meditation. Just remember that
direction to counteract the roll, but use-
I had left the kayak at home, but it any river with enough impunity to brazen
lessly. As the spill became inevitable I
plunged safely through all of them. its way through hundreds of miles of arid
yelled to the girls to hang to the kayak.
Actually, it proved to be an excellent plateaus and deserts must be approached
Then we rolled into the river, I on one
craft in the rapids, stable and highly with the respect it deserves.
side, the girls on the other.
What happened during those first ex-
citing seconds we have never determined
precisely. When I saw the girls safely
PICTO says:
IN JUST 14 HOURS
clinging to the upturned kayak, I glanced driving time from So. Cal. you can be
around to appraise our situation. A few in the Canyonlands Country of Southeast Utah
feet away I saw the canvas musette bag
containing my two cameras. With what I
thought was considerable presence of
14 HOURS IN CANYONLANDS COUNTRY
mind I paddled out to it, clutched a CAN BE RICHLY REWARDING
chunk of the canvas in my fingers, and
paddled back to the kayak. THINK OF SPENDING 14 DAYS!
We were all wearing life-jackets; for-
Our Full Color Brochure, with map, tells you
tunately I had insisted upon that. But it
how and where. For your copy write:
was just plain luck that the raft was only
a little behind us when we capsized. As SAN JUAN COUNTY TOURIST COUNCIL
soon as its occupants saw our plight they Box 425 D MONTICELLO, UTAH 84535

May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 35

 Flaming Gorge by Raye Price

Colorful buttes, chimneys, and

V ISITORS ARE hot on the heels of
progress at Flaming Gorge Lake,
near Vernal, Utah. It might seem like
redrock cliffs tapestried with desert var-
nish, striated tilts of sandstone, rolling
forests, beaches and flatlands.
pinnacles form a scenic back- trick photography to personnel of the Maritime explorers may take their pick
National Park Service, U. S. Forest Ser- of several permanent campgrounds this
ground for Flaming Gorge Na- vice and Bureau of Reclamation, who season. A new installation at Antelope
tional Recreation Area in Utah- jointly administer the recreational area, Flat will be completed with facilities
because almost the instant they place a similar to those at Lucerne Valley . . . 120
Wyoming. When full, the reservoir charcoal stove, it's sizzling with steak, campsites, a picnic area, ranger contact
is 91 miles long with 42,020 sur- they build a dock and it's moored with station, swimming beach, boat launching
boats, construct a campground, and it's ramp and dock, comfort stations, running
face acres, providing ample room filled. water and charcoal stoves. Other perman-
It's a big lake. When completed, 91 ent sites are at Cedar Springs and Dutch
for such water sports as fishing,
miles will stretch from Dutch John, Utah, John Draw, with boating campgrounds,
boating, swimming, and water northward to the fringe of Green River, accessible only by water, at Jarvis Can-
Wyoming. At capacity, 3,800,000 acre yon, Gooseneck, and Hideout Canyon.
skiing.
feet of water will be stored in the boun- Things are happening in the northern
daries of a 375-mile shoreline featuring reaches of the lake, too. Fifty temporary
36 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966
campsites will be ready for summer visi-
tors at Buckboard Crossing and a paved
access road and water system are nearing
completion. Concrete boat launching
ramps are already being used at Buck-
board, Squaw Hollow, Firehole, and Bri-
negar Ranch sites and they are equipped
with temporary facilities. This year, the
Manila and Green River District ranger
headquarters will be open as well as that
at Dutch John. Campers should inquire-
about camping fees, fishing licenses and
regulations.
Fluctuating water levels pose one of the
major problems at Flaming Gorge. The
lake might be too low to reach northern
campgrounds or, as happened last sum-
mer, it could back up as far as Firehole.
Heavy spring run-off sometimes floods
beaches and temporary sites, but the co-
operative agencies make immediate ad-
justments to facilitate continual use by
visitors. Boaters are warned to keep an eye
out for floating debris, especially in heavy
spring waters.
Marinas will be available this season to
furnish marine gasoline, boat rental and
mooring, and camping supplies at Lu-
cerne Valley, Antelope Flat, and Cedar
Springs. Docks are located at all ramps
except Bronegar Ranch. The U. S. Forest
Service is constructing a ramp at Sheep
Creek in addition to those now in use at
Dutch John and Cedar Springs.
Access roads skirt the lake from Green
River, Wyoming through Manila, Utah
to the dam, now that the Sheep Creek
Road, damaged by the flash flood last
June, is reopened.
There's much to do at Flaming Gorge.
Swimming beaches and broad lagoons
for water skiing give boatmen a chance
to cool off and fishermen might be seen
24 hours a day casting for rainbow trout.
(The lake has also been stocked with
kokanee salmon which are expected to
show up in catches when they spawn
this autumn.)
Relief models of the area are interest-
ing museum displays in the Flaming
Gorge Visitors' Center, located at the
dam, and a self-guiding tour through the
powerplant and dam will be completed
by the Bureau of Reclamation for this
summer's visitors. Evening naturalist
talks are presented in season at Antelope
Flats and Lucerne Valley. Exciting CAMPER COACH book-of-the-year
Landlubbers will find trailer camps and
several lodges in the area and horses may Outdoorsmen—this book is for you! For traveling, fishing, hunt-
be rented at Red Canyon Lodge. It's a ing, camping, its 40 full-color photographs will tempt and tantalize
new resort and it's growing fast. If you've you-make you want to pick up a gleaming new Avion Camper
never been there, don't miss it; if you're Coach, pick up your family—and 6 0 ! So write today for your
making a return trip, be prepared for
surprises. •
AVION FREE Camper Coach Catalog D-2. Avion Camper Coaches, Inc.
San Jacinto, California—Benton Harbor, Michigan.

May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 37

 AUTHORS!
If you have completed a book-length manu-
script, you may be interested in our special
THE OUTLAW TRAIL
Continued from Page 19

be gorgeous, the days just warm enough

populated with wriggly things, hut it is
always cold and refreshing, internally and
externally.
After an early dinner, Art and A. C.
publishing plan. Under this program, many and the sky Utah blue.
lawyers, executives, teachers, scholars and rode down the canyon to check on the
even housewives have seen their work pub- \X ith three pack mules and six riding trail. From camp to the Green was "un-
lished, promoted and marketed on a digni-
fied, professional basis. All subjects con- horses and creaky joints, it takes a bit of known territory." They returned at sun-
sidered — non-fiction, fiction, poetry, etc.
Send for our free 40-page illustrated bro- time to get underway in the mornings. down to report they believed we could get
chure today. Ask for Booklet, D.
Someone usually rolled out between 5:30 through. By the time the next night
VANTAGE PRESS, INC.
and 6:00. Whoever did, built a fire and rolled around we knew we were in the
120 W. 31st St., N e w York 1, N.Y.
In Calif.: 6253 Hollywood Blvd., L.A. put the coffee on while Art's son, A. C , hands of optimists.
In Wash., D.C.: 1010 Vermont Ave., N.W. rounded up the stock. Usually he re- Horsethief has two drop-offs of major
turned in time to hear the cook sing, proportions. The first is traversed over
CALIFORNIA "Chineago," the white man's version of a long steep sand slide. Deep sand on a
GHOST TOWN GUIDE the Indian's "come and get it."
Our ride this day presented us with
steep slope can be tricky. Horses bog
down to their knees. It is necessary to
New guide to over 100 California ghost towns
Unique and authentic guide to over 100 outstanding vistas. From the head of lead them and, since we too bog down,
ghost towns in California's deserts and moun-
tains with complete directions on how to Horseshoe Canyon we overlooked an it isn't easy to keep a step ahead of the
reach them. Shows you the way to little-
known and intrigue-filled towns that provide infinite number of buttes and spires of horse. Some horses are careful and some
hours of interest for those seeking buried that vast eroded land that falls away to
treasures, old guns, western relics, purple are not. I had no trouble with Old Red.
bottles aged by the sun, and antique objects. the Green. Early visitors to this mystic He was always willing to go where I
Satisfaction guaranteed or money back.
land named it well. From all angles, Cleo- went and instantly slowed when I raised
Order Now! Only $1.95 patra's Chair sits atop the world—even the hand that held the reins.
A. L. ABBOTT as did the lady. Junction Butte marks The second jump is a big one, several
Dept. D-15
151.1 West Komneya Drive — Anaheim, Calif. the wedding of the Green and the Grand. hundred feet high—or rather down—
Panorama Point provides just that—a from where we were and with sheer walls.

Join an Expedition seemingly endless 250 degree view. Jack

and His Family is a great lonely butte
and standing on its top are one large spire
and one not quite so large, surrounded by
We rimmed it, following the trail to a
"fall-off" that can't be described with any
other word. Not only steep, the footing
was rough, loose rock and it had been
GLEN-ESCALANTE CANYONS
a population explosion. unused so long that in a number of places
COLORADO-GREEN RIVERS
That night, after crossing the great it was blocked by slides. It was, in fact,
YUKON RIVER an abrupt talus slope, the rocks varying
flat stretch of the Spur, one of the best
FOR INFORMATION WRITE TO
pastures on Roost Ranch, we camped at in size from pebbles to boulders. Art
KEN SLEIGHT, Guide the upper end of Horsethief Canyon. went first. The others strung out behind
WONDERLAND EXPEDITIONS Though the weather was perfect, we laid with the pack animals, hopefully, in the
3862 SOUTH 825 WEST our fire near an overhanging ledge. A rear. I say hopefully, since bunched stock
BOUNTIFUL, UTAH pack rat had found it equally enticing on a narrow cliff-side trail can mean
and built a nest some four feet square. bones at the bottom and here we found
With so little building material lying plenty of bleached bones deposited by
"The BONANZA sheep and cattle that had failed to make
loose on the slickrock it must have repre-
Metal Detector Kits" it.
sented years of effort. Below, storms of
America's biggest and
lowest priced line of centuries had cut through the soft rock I spent many hours leading my horse
fully guaranteed Detector Kits. to form a basin and there, protected on slickrock trails in Navajo Country,
Will react to all kinds of metal
objects including gold, copper,
from evaporation, was a large pool where but I never had to achieve such agility
silver, lead, guns, cannon balls, etc. the horses watered. Above the drop-off as I did to stay on this two-foot trail
Free literature, budget terms, on the slickrock were numerous shallow ahead of the horse. You don't really
trade - in accepted. pools where we humans watered and walk on a trail like this—you leap from
BONANZA ELECTRONICS where we had our first good wash since- rock to rock, shifting the reins from
P. O. Box 246, Dept. DM leaving the Roost. Shallow, tank water, hand to hand to keep the horse and your-
Sweet Home, Oregon subject to evaporation, may be muddy and self where you hope both will be. That

Obviously this isn't the HD*n 'i nia

33J9LUUJO1 JO
GOLDEN GATE
BRIDGE Uj 3J, noA
You'll like the west side best!
AQJS O^ 3* D|d .si)4 S| >- \ I1"—' T R SCENERY SECOND TO NONE,
jjrijf] * * * 4! t° >IOOI I L \ ^y OLD OUTLAW TRAILS,
" °N v^ /
noX MOIJ 3(4D
\ FAMOUS INDIAN PAINTINGS,
—SADS °)5!d y' \ J WORKING CATTLE RANCH.

Pack Trips — May and September

Guide Service and Jeep trips bv appointment
ART EKKER
ROBBERS ROOST
GREEN RIVER, UTAH 84525

38 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966

 Prehistoric Indian box in cave in law Trail. There was still-the. hideout
Clyde Canyon. to see, the notorious Robber's Roost.
Send For Our Just
After a hearty breakfast, we again mount-
ed our horses and rode seven miles over Published FREE 1966
a slickrock trail that led down from the
mesa rim to the outlaw's hideout. Nature
had provided them with a fortress. A
live spring oozed from the ground, flow-
BOOK
ed through a grove of cottonwood and
then disappeared into the flat floor of
the basin where the outlaws had built a
CATALOG
corral. The stone chimney of what was
Latest and Best
once a building still stands. At the end
of a narrow fork are two well-hidden for the
caves and past them flows enough water
Books on The West
to meet the needs of a man and to camou-
flage the cave entrances with stands of
willow, hawthorne and mesquite. Magazine Bookshop
It was the habit of the Wild Bunch to PALM DESERT, CALIFORNIA 92260
hole up here while their stolen horses
grazed on pasture land above and they Since 1937 Offering the World's
vented their brands. A guard was posted Largest Selection of Books
on Deadman Mesa. Anyone approaching on the West
could be spotted in time for the horses
to be rounded up and moved, or for the
we got down with no troubles was due
Wild Bunch to take cover in their im-
to the trail building skill of Art and A. pregnable fortress.
C. and the experience and intelligence
of Art's stock. At the bottom we camped Legend suggests that the posse was Headquarter at
by a seep which we converted into a never too anxious to tangle with the out-
laws. They usually arrived a few days
spring by means of a willow stick sliced
in half to form a trough. It was only
when finally I stretched out that I was
after the Wild Bunch had departed. On
one occasion their timing was off and
SAN JUAN
sure both legs were still the same length.
The following day we rode the Horse-
they appeared on the rim while the Bunch
were in the Basin. A few wild shots were TRADING
thief to the Green. The junction is mark-
ed by a thin, ragged fin. This day and in
exchanged and one of the Bunch shot
through the leg, a minor discomfort from
which he recovered. Butch Cassidy, their
POST
this canyon we rode through pages of See . . .
geologic history, through red Navajo, 20-year-old leader, completed his brief
career of train and bank robber and Lake Powell
Kayenta and Wingate sandstones, on
down through the Chinle and Shinarump horse thief without inflicting any human Monument Valley
formations and at the bottom, the Moen- fatalities. The law saw no reason to fol- Southern Utah
copi. But then we had to retrace the fear- low him when he decided to retire south
of the border. Special Overnight Land
some trail back to Horsethief—only this
After climbing out of the Basin, we
and Lake Trip to
time we went up instead of down. It's
RAINBOW BRIDGE
better that way! were met by a truck from the ranch, so
here we unsaddled and turned loose our 22 Modern Motel Units . . .
From Horsethief we rode the rim of
Millard Canyon. The two forks of Mil-
horses. While watching them race toward Guided Scenic Tours to Monu-
the Roost we were so loath to leave, we ment Valley and Fabulous San
lard soon join to form one of the largest
couldn't help but be grateful that "good Juan County . . . Curio Shop,
of the Green River's tributary canyons.
won out" and the Wild Bunch left this Navajo Rugs, Indian Jewelry
Walls are abrupt, too sheer for any trail
land untainted. . . . Cafe . . . Film, Camping
and talus at their foot gives way to a Supplies . . . Service Station
vast sea of undulating rock sweeping for It would be hard to cover the entire
. . . Licensed hunting guide . . .
miles across a series of beaches to the Outlaw Trail afoot, and impossible by Accommodations for hunters
distant, tamarisk and willow-covered vehicle, but the trails to Robbers Roost, during deer season . . .
banks of the Green. We climbed a mesa to the Dirty Devil, Horseshoe Canyon
to feast our eyes on one of the finest with its magnificent primitive art gallery, Your headquarters for a
views anywhere in the land. and to other spectacular points are tra- Southern Utah Vacation
When finally time ran out, we found versed by parties led by various Utah
a tank in the slickrock that held enough guides who arrange such expeditions San Juan
water to carry us over for the night. Then
the next day we rode on to the Roost
each summer. Some combine 4-wheel
drive vehicles with hiking, others use Trading Post
pack horses or, like Roost Ranch, accom- MEXICAN HAT, UTAH
Ranch, where beds felt good under our
modate expeditions of varying lengths on Paved Highway 47
saddle-weary bones. Telephone Mexican Hat 42
But we hadn't quite covered the Out- entirely by horseback. •

May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 39

 D I R E C T F R O M A U S T R A L I A
monthly feature by
author of
OPALS and SAPPHIRES sst Town Album,
This Month's Best Buy
lost Town Trails,
SPECIAL OFFER
3 Ounces Andamooka and Coober Pedy Ghost Town Shadows and
Opal. All colors and sizes to cut from
this colorful lot. Ghost Town Treasures.
$18.00 FREE AIRMAIL

Send personal cheque, international money

order, bank draft. Free 16 page list of all
Australian Gemstones.
Australian Gem Trading Co.
2 9 4 Little Collins Street
MELBOURNE, C . I . AUSTRALIA

Go By . . .
JACKSON'S SCENIC TOURS
One Day or More
Into Cathedral Valley, Circle Cliffs, Land of
Standing Rocks, Canyonlands, and other
scenic country north and west of the new
La<e Powell.
For Information, or Reservations
phone or write:

JACKSON'S SCENIC TOURS

FREMONT, UTAH
Telephone 836-2820

Metal Detectors
BOUGHT — SOLD — TRADED
Dealer For
Detectron, Fisher, Goldak,
Rayscope, GeoFinder, Metrotech
Repair Service
Write for FREE 32-Page Booklet
on Detectors, Books and Maps

BILL'S SERVICE CENTER

16238 Lakewood Blvd.
Bellflower, California 90706

TR EASURE
New Transistor Models Detect
Buried Gold, Silver, Coins,
Ancient Firearms
For land or underwater
Mineral Park, Arizona
; exploration. Explore beaches, BY LAMBERT FLORIN
ghost towns, walls of
abandoned shacks

\
y&
i"
)
Work through
mud, water,
concrete, wood
$ H Q 9
' * ^ up
S M UCH OF the and Southwest lacks
trees for building lumber so early
house builders resorted to a substance
the night of April 1, there was a down-
pour even more violent than preceding
ones. Next morning, in the predawn
Write for FREE Catalog always present, the earth. Fortuitously, darkness, the Chinese cook at the Palace
RELCO Dept D - 1 8 Box 10563, Houston 18, Texas this lack of trees prevents the formation Hotel was scurrying on his way to work.
of humus in the soil, which while not As he passed the large adobe house of
good for growing vegetables, lends it- the Moses Steen family, he saw that it
BAJA self, when mixed with water, pressed
into forms and dried in the sun, to the
had collapsed in the night. The cook

EXPEDITIONS making of bricks. Buildings of adobe

bricks were substantial and insulated
raised the alarm, then went on to his job.
Four-year-old Mabel Grace Steen and
Join our party leaving June 5 for a one-
month overland tour of Baja California to against heat and cold, but were extreme- her 14-year-old sister, Nellie, had been
Cabo San Lucas. Explore with us this land ly vulnerable to large amounts of rain. sleeping in the same bed. Little Mabel
of strange deserts, beautiful beaches, tropi-
With age and negect, old "adobes" gra- Grace was still alive; Nellie was crushed
cal villages, and extraordinary fishing. Re-
turn via the new ferry to Mazatlan. dually melt away. to death. Dead also were the father and
DICK PETTIT • LAIRD KROTZ In the country around the old mining mother. Eight-year-old Madison was
725 Presidio camp of Mineral Park, Arizona, the pressed down under a beam, but was not
San Clemente, Calif. 92672 winter of 1884 had brought on a suc- seriously injured. He said he heard no
(714) 492-6819
cession of unusually heavy rains. During outcry from his sister or father, but that

40 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966

his mother had cried and moaned for Pacific to San Francisco, go down to Los
some time before she died. Angeles, thence overland to Yuma. There Lowest Photo Print Prices
Many years later Nell Murbarger, he would board a paddle-wheel steamer Highest Quality
author of Ghosts of the Adobe Walls, and proceed up the Colorado as far as Dev. & print 8 Jumbo prints
interviewed Mrs. Ballard Hardman of Hardyville, where he'd await the some- from Kodacolor film $1.78
Seattle, daughter of Mabel Grace, who time-stage to Mineral Park. Yet, in 1884 Dev. & print 1 2 Jumbo prints
related the story of the rescue, empha- the town had a population of at least from Kodacolor film ...$2.42
1000, all of whom, except new infants, Dev. & print 12 Jumbo prints and
sizing the danger of extricating the tiny new roll of Kodacolor film $3.30
girl who would be her mother. Volun- arrived via this route. Reprints from Kodacolor negs $ .16
teers formed a human chain, passing Missing among institutions of Mineral
Send for price sheets
along one brick at a time until a passage- Park were a bank and a church. The
and envelopes
way was opened. "Mr. Hays, one of the town newspaper, the Mohave Miner agi-
All other
rescuers," said Mrs. Hardman, "crawled tated for a real bank with a capital of Photo prices are
in until he could get hold of one foot, $50,000 to $100,000, but without tan- comparably low
whereupon he dragged my mother free. gible results. Lacking a reguar church,
She was unconscious and bleeding from residents did establish a non-sectarian
MARKET BASKET PHOTO CO.
the ears. Not until his little sister was Sunday school. Commented the Miner,
P. O. Box 370, Yuma, Arizona or
safe would Uncle Madison allow the men "It is very important to the children as P. O. Box 2830, San Diego, California
to extricate him. He was later found to well as the community, whether they shall
have a broken collar bone as well as sev- be trained to the gentle, kind and good,
eral fractured ribs." or grow up in evil, vicious habits, a curse
The first prospectors in western Ari- to themselves their parents and com-
zona were soldiers attached to Fort Mo- munity."
have on the Colorado River. They found To a town so isolated from the world,
gold in the foothills, which fostered the news that a railroad would be built was
boom towns of Goldroad and Oatman. like a bombshell. Property values rose
Other searchers were rewarded with the and a new hospital and school were plan-
discovery of silver veins in the Cerbat ned. In 1883 the rails did pass through
Range. As a result of activity in this area, the area but failed to touch Mineral DESERT NOTES by JOHN H
Mineral Park grew up on a juniper-cover- Camp by 15 miles. Business men hacked Exquisite, full color scenes by America's fore-
most desert painter. Generous pack of 18
ed, park-like bench bisected by a small out a road to the nearest point and rail beautiful notes in a handsome gift box.
stream, although the creek promised Handy 4 x 5 size. Only $1.25 per box.
officials erected a station, but it wasn't as Order "HILTON NOTES" today or send 10c
an ample water supply, it turned out to
anticipated. Businesses concerned with for sample and catalog showing notes,
be impregnated with chemicals. As the prints, stationery and our famous Christmas
need for water grew, Harris Solomon shipping moved to the junction of road cards. Dealer inquiries invited. Our 17th year
started a packtrain to transport it from and rails. Others followed and soon a of same day service. Money-back Guarantee
new town, Kingman, was born. Mineral and postage free from the Leanin' Tree!
Keystone Spring, several miles distant.
Park today is a true ghost town. Nearby The LEANIN' TREE Ranch
By 1880 Mineral Park was a booming Box 1500 Boulder, Colorado
you can see its old cemetery where one
camp, with four saloons, a restaurant,
hotel, school and several stores. The of the graves holds the victims of the col-
town although exhibiting such metropoli- lapsed Moses Steen home.
tan aspects as the Mineral Park Cultural Our photo shows a front-dumping ore
Society, was so far in the hinterland as car, rather unusual since most are side-
to be virtually inaccessible. A traveler emptying. The flag pole behind it stands
from the East was forced to cross the over company office buildings still in
northern part of the U.S. on the Union fair condition. •

AMERICA'S

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That thief with "LOCK STRAP"!
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A NEW A N D EXCITING BROCHURE FEATUR-
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Dealers inquiries invited STAR DIAMOND CANYON TOURS, INC.
INDUSTRIES, INC.
1421 WEST 2 4O STREET WAHWEAP LODGE and MARINA
LOCK STRAP HARBOR CITY CALIFORNIA 90710
P. O. Box 1 597 Page, Arizona
329 West Lomita Ave , Dept. D, Glendale, Calif 91204
Phone 645-2761
California residents add 4 % sales tax

May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 41

 COOKERY

NOODLE SPINACH LOAF SCALLOPED SWEET POTATO STUFFED ACORN SQUASH

3 tablespoons butter AND APPLE 4 baked acorn squash
1 tablespoon flour 6 sweet potatoes 2 teaspoons chopped onion
1 cup milk 6 apples 2 tablespoons butter
4 cups cooked noodles 1 cup brown sugar IV2 cups moistened bread crumbs
i/4 Ib. American cheese, grated y 2 cup butter 1 egg
Salt, pepper and paprika water Salt and pepper
2 cups cooked spinach Boil sweet potatoes, peel and slice. Remove baked squash from the
Make white sauce of butter, flour Peel, core and slice apples. In but- shells and mash. Cook onion in but-
and milk. Arrange in alternate layers tered casserole, put layers of sweet ter, add squash and crumbs and
the noodles, chopped spinach, potatoes, apples, brown sugar and cook until a soft mixture. Place in
cheese and white sauce which has butter. Repeat until all are used; empty shells, sprinkle with a few re-
been seasoned to taste with salt, add a little water. Bake in 350 de- served bread crumbs and dot with
pepper and paprika. Top with a layer gree oven for V2 hour. butter. Cook in 350 degree oven for
of cheese. Bake in a 375 degree oven about V2 hour.
until nicely browned.
SYRIAN EGGPLANT
SPINACH TiMBALES PERUVIAN POTATOES
Peel and slice a medium size egg
2 cups cooked spinach plant. Salt and fry in deep oil. In a Boil potatoes, peeled and cut length-
2 eggs skillet brown IV2 lbs. ground lamb wise.
2 tablespoons milk and one chopped onion. Season to Sauce: Brown a few pieces of garlic
2 tablespoons butter taste. Place in alternate layers in a in olive oil, when brown, discard
2 tablespoons nippy cheese cut buttered casserole the eggplant and garlic. Pour tomato sauce in the hot
fine the lamb. Pour over this a small can oil, add a 3 oz. package of cream
y 2 teaspoon salt, pepper to taste of tomato sauce. Bake in a 325 de- cheese cut into small pieces, 1 ta-
Chop spinach very fine. Beat egg gree oven for 1 hour. blespoon chopped onion, white of 1
yolks light, add milk, melted butter, hardboiled egg, cut into small pieces,
cheese and seasonings. Mix with and the yolk mashed until smooth.
spinach and fold in stiffly beaten EGGPLANT SOUFFLE Add salt and pepper to taste. Heat
egg whites. Fill buttered molds with 1 medium size eggplant all together and pour over potato
mixture. Place in pan of hot water 2 tablespoons butter halves. In Peru these are served on
and bake in 375 degree oven until lettuce leaves.
firm. Turn out on hot plate, garnish 2 tablespoons flour
with slices of hard boiled egg and 1 cup milk
pour cheese sauce around timbales. 1 cup grated American cheese TANGERINE SWEET POTATOES
% cup soft bread crumbs 4 boiled sweet potatoes
SPANISH LIMAS
2 teaspoons grated onion y 4 cup butter
1 onion chopped 1 tablespoon catsup !/2 cup sugar
1 green pepper chopped Salt, pepper, dash of cayenne V4 cup water
2 tablespoons butter 2 eggs Tangerine sections
2 cups strained tomatoes Broiled bacon Cut cooked sweet potatoes into
salt, pepper and a dash of cayenne Peel eggplant, cut into small pieces halves, lengthwise. Arrange in shal-
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce and cook in boiling salted water until low baking dish so that there will
1 can lima beans tender. Drain thoroughly and mash. be only one layer. Make a thin syrup
11/2 cups grated American cheese Make cream sauce with butter, flour of butter, sugar and water and pour
Saute onion and pepper in the but- and milk. When thickened and over potatoes. Bake uncovered in
ter, add strained tomatoes and cook smooth, add eggplant, cheese, 375 degree oven for about V2 hour,
slowly for 10 minutes. Add season- crumbs, onion, catsup, seasonings or until syrup has been absorbed by
ings and beans, which have been and beaten egg yolks. Fold in stiffly potatoes. Baste a few times during
thoroughly drained. Simmer slowly beaten egg whites. Pour into butter- baking. Just before serving, place
for 20 minutes. Put beans and ed casserole and bake in 350 degree cold tangerine sections generously
cheese in alternate layers in butter- oven for about 45 minutes. Garnish over potatoes. Sugar lightly and
ed casserole; bake at 350 degrees with broiled bacon and serve immed- place under broiler for a few minutes
for 20 to 30 minutes. iately. until tangerines are heated.

42 / Desert Magazine / May, 1966

 ROCKHOUNDS
FREE brochures listing thousands
of mountings, cut stones and gem-
stone rough from around the
world. Many shown in full COLOR.
Hints for Desert Travelers
by Bruce Barron GEMEX Dept. D
'ala, Calif

wrap with string of cloth coated with

soap.
Symptom — Blown fuse. Treatment:
Fran's Gem Shop
FRANTOM EQUIPMENT
After repairing the "short" causing blow- • Mineral Specimens • Jewelry Findings
ing of fuse, wrap exterior of blown fuse • Abrasive Grits • Stones in the Rough
in a sliver of aluminum foil and reinsert • Diamond Saws • Finished Stones
in fuse bracket (replace with proper • Sanding Cloth • Polishing Compounds
fuse at first opportunity). 3757 West Rosecrans
Symptom—Vapor lock (car bucks, and HAWTHORNE CALIF.
stalls when hot) — Treatment: Where Phone: OSborne 5-7328
fuel lines run close to manifold, insulate Open 9:00 to 6:00 (except Sunday)
by wrapping lines with aluminum foil—
also wrap bottom of carburetor and sedi-
ment bowl to reflect radiant engine heat. Authorized
Symptom — Tire has slow leak (not
caused by defective valve core). Treat- JEEP
OUR "GRUB-BOX" can serve two-
Y fold by acting as a simple, con-
venient, and effective automotive first-
ment: Let all air out of tire, until com-
pletely flat, then raise car with jack until
air starts to suck in through stem, funnel
Sales and Service
LARGEST SUPPLY OF
NEW A N D USED JEEP PARTS
aid kit. Here are some hints to save you a can of evaporated milk into tire. Re- IN THE WEST.

hours of dreary waiting, or a long weary place core and reinflate. Centrifugal Looking for a feep—Try us I
hike. force from driving causes milk to ooze BRIAN CHUCHUA'S
Symptom—Leaky radiator. Treatment: into offending hole—coagulation of milk FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CENTER
1625 S. Harbor Blvd.
Add a small can of black pepper or a forms a latex-like sealant. Fullerton 7, California
sack of "roll your own tobacco," or Symptom—Icing, filming or fogging
whites of a couple of eggs. Run engine of windshield. Treatment: Rub wind-
until hot—operate car with radiator cap
fitted loosely to avoid pressure build up.
shield with tobacco (moistened sack of
"roll your own" or plug tobacco will
METAL&MINERAL
For severe leaks caused from a stick or
sharp object rupturing core, first dip
apply easiest). LOCATORS by ,
Symptom — Corroded battery cable.
aluminum foil in egg white, and pack
Treatment: Cover battery post and cable
tightly in offending hole, then treat as
with baking soda—Rinse corrosion off
above.
with water (avoid soda entering filler EO
Symptom—Leaky gas tank or fuel line. plugs). If cable has been severely weak- FINDER
Treatment: Rub a bar of slightly moisten-
ed soap over break until scab of soft soap
ened by corrosion, reinforce by tightly ALWAYS BETTER ALLWAYS
wrapping in several layers of aluminum
stops leak. If severe leak, first plug or foil. • 'LITERATURE THE GEO hINOER co.
BOX 3 7 , LAKEWOOD, CALIFORNIA

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Technical Publications Dept., Many new photos and drawings of Death Valley
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 T r a d i n g Pest HOW TO PLACE YOUR AD
Mail your copy and first-insertion remit-
tance to: Trading Post, Desert Magazine,

CLASSIFIEDS Palm Desert, California 92260

Classified rates are 25c per word, $5
minimum per insertion.

• BOOKS-MAGAZINES • EQUIPMENT-SUPPLIES
• AUTO ACCESSORIES
HI-FLOTATION TIRES: Armstrong 11:00x15''— "SPECTACULAR LAKE POWELL"—A new SunENJOY BACKPACK camping. Free booklet tells
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Powell. For your copy—postpaid—send $2.25
desert and Indian books a specialty. Send Suppliers, 9322 California Avenue, South
to Sun Country Publications, 2434 East Third
us your wants. No obligation. International Gate, California.
Street, Tucson, Arizona.
Bcokfinders, Box 3003-D, Beverly Hills, Calif.
READ "BURIED Treasure and Lost Mines" by
"OVERLOOKED FORTUNES' in minerals and gem Frank Fish, 93 bonafide locations, photos and HOME STUDY
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emerald the size of your thumb may be $5 00 per share. Faith Bible College and Sem-
worth $1000 or more; learn how to find, "1200 BOTTLES PRICED"—well illustrated, com- inary, Box 1674, Fort Lauderdale, Florida
identify and cash in on them. New simple plete description, covers entire field, 164 33302.
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dale, Arizona 85301. GUIDE TO MEXICO'S gems and minerals: locali-
ties, mines, maps, directions, contacts. Eng- LOST MAYAN Jade Mines. Whlsle. Specials!
"BACKWARD THROUGH A Bottle"—bottles, relics lish-Spanish glossary, too. $2.00 postpaid. Prices per pound. Nephrite Jade (Riverside
arid ghost towns of Arizona Territory. Photos, Gemac, Mentone, Calif. 92359. County mine-run). Dark Flowering greens,
sketches, stories. $2.00. Kay Devner, 8945 greys, mottled, $1.00. Rare grey-green-
Ecst 20th, Tucson, Arizona. ATTENTION GO people: Discover new adven- black-blacks, $1.50. Hand color selected,
tures, places to go, things to do, subscribe $2.00. Natural large chunks, 5 to 150 pounds
"GHOST TOWN Directory of the West"—over to " G o " the travel newsletter that tells all, $1.00. Thulite-Actinolite; rare "pink jade'
3^0 sites in ten western states. Pictures and dates, events, places, helpful tips. Issued pink-green pastels, $1.00. Prehistoric Olmec
maps. Price $ 1 . Pierce Publishing Co., Box monthly. $5 per year. Send check to GO, Box "Clinojadeite;'' green-crea-n-brown zoisite-
5221, Dept. A-9, Abilene, Texas. 571, Barrington, Illinois. saussaurite, etc., rare patterns, 50c. Ophical-
"SUN-COLORED GLASS, It's Lure and Lore,' KNOW THE Southwest. Colorful and fearlessly cite; rare golden, 30c. Spiderweb Agate; rare
50 pages, illustrated, $2.75 postpaid. Mary accurate narratives of its history, people and golden ophicalcite lines, 30c. Epidote-Quartz;
J. Zimmerman, Dept. D., Box 2641, Amarillo, current interests will be found only in "The grass green, 25c. Color Chalcedony; purple-
Texas. Southwesterner," internationally famous greys, 25c. Quartz Monzonite; amphibolite-
monthly devoted to the American Southwest; spotted jadeite-tike feldspars, 25c. Grossular-
GHOST TOWN GUIDE: Complete guide to over recently featured in "Time." $2 per year. ite Garnet; pattern brown-greens, 25c. Over
100 ghost towns in California, only $1.95. Box 10016, El Paso, Texas. 80% gemstone cabbing quality. $5.00 mini-
W. Abbott, 1513 West Romneya Drive, Ana-
OFFERING FILES: Desert—1 944 ; ~ Arizona Tligh- mum order. Add postage, freight. Rockhounds,
heim, California.
ways—1 954; American West—two volumes; dealers welcome. StormJade Mountain Mines,
NEVADA TREASURE Hunters Ghost Town Guide. Civil War Times Illustrated—four volumes; all Chiriaco Summit, (Indio), California 92201.
Lcrge folded maps. 800 place name glossary. issues—U.S.A.L.; all sets and extras Standard
Railroads, towns, camps, camel trail. $1.50. RIVERSIDE, CALIFORNIA. We have everything
Oil Colored Scenics,- 1939 plus. King, 507
Tl-eron Fox, 1296-C Yosemite, San Jose 26, for the rock hound, pebble pups, interesting
Coronado, Long Beach, Calif.
California. gifts for those who are not rock hounds.
"HOW TO Retire In Mexico on $2.47 a Day," Minerals, slabs, rough materials, lapidary
BOOK HUNTING is our business, service is our postage, tax paid, $1.75. Satisfaction guar- supplies, mountings, equipment, black lights.
product. No charge for search. Satisfaction anteed. All orders filled promptly. A. Segard, Why not stop and browse? Shamrock Rock
guaranteed. D-J 8ook Search Service, P. O. DM-5, 463 Mel Avenue, Palm Springs, Calif. Shop, 593 West La Cadena Drive, Riverside,
Box 3352-D, San Bernardino, Calif. 92404. Calif. OVerland 6-3956.
ORIGINAL "GHOST Town Bottle Price Guide" • DESERT STATIONERY POCKET GOLD, $2. Placer gold, $2. Gold dust,
80 page, 5th edition revised. Bottle sketches, DESERT WILDFLOWERS, Roadrunners, other Desert $1. Attractively displayed. Postpaid. Money-
pnotos, color plate, current values, $2.25 Wildlife notecards, 12 assorted—$1.50. Com- back guarantee. Lester Lea, Box 1 125D, Mt.
postpaid. Discount to dealers. Wes Bressie, plete 62 Desert Collection—$6.20. Free bro- Shasta, California.
Rt. 1, Box 582, Eagle Point, Oregon. chure. Artist Henry Mockel, Box 726, Twenty- CHOICE MINERAL specimens, gems, cutting ma-
ARIZONA TREASURE Hunters Ghost Town Guide, nine Palms, Calif. 92277. terial, machinery, lapidary and jewelers sup-
large folded map 1 8 8 1 , small early map, plies, mountings, fluorescent lamps, books.
1200 place name glossary, mines, camps, Sumner s, 21108 Devonshire, Chatsworth, Cal.
Classif ed Ads bring results Twenty-five
Indian reservations, etc. $1.50. Theron Fox,
1296-E Yosemite, San Jose, California. cents a word, $5.00 min mum. Copy must be
"GEMS & MINERALS," the monthly guide to be in Desert Magazine office, Palm Desert, • INDIAN GOODS
gems, minerals, and rock hobby fun. $4.00 California no later than the 10th of the SELLING 20,000 Indian relics. 100 nice ancient
year. Sample 25c. Gems & Minerals, Mentone, second month preceding cover date. arrowheads $25. Indian skull $25. List free.
Calif. 92359. Lear's, Glenwood, Arkansas.

44 Desert Magazine / May, 1966

 INDIAN GOODS • PHOTO SUPPLIES • TREASURE FINDERS
FINEST TRANSISTOR metal locators, $34.95. to
F(WE RESERVATION-MADE Navajo, Zuni, Hopi CUSTOM FILM finishing by mail since 1932.
$275. Find coins, souvenirs, treasure. Informa-
jewelry. Large selection of old pawn and Morgan Camera Shop "The complete photo-
tive folder, "Metal Locating Kinks," 25c.
Kachina dolls now in stock. Many fine old graphic store," 6262 Sunset Blvd., Holly-
IGWTD, Williamsburg, New Mexico.
baskets, moderately priced, in excellent con- wood, California 90028.
dition Navajo rugs, Yei blankets, Chimayo POWERFUL METROTECH locators detect gold, sil-
blankets, pottery. A collector's paradise! Open ver, coins, relics. Moneyback guarantee. Terms
daily 10 to 5:30, closed Mondays. Buffalo • PLANTS, SEEDS free information. Underground Explorations,
Trading Post, Highway 18, Apple Valley, Dept. 3A, Bax 793, Menlo Park, California.
Cal ifornia. WILDFLOWER CATALOG! 1966-67 Wildflower
LOOKING FOR treasure: Complete detailed cir-
and Wild Tree Seed Catalog. Lists more than
cuit information to build low-cost transistor
AUTHENTIC INDIAN jewelry, Navajo rugs, Chi- 800 of the best varieties including 100 new,
metal locator and small detector, two circuits
mayo blankets, squaw boots. Collector's choice kinds, many very rare. Outstanding,
$2. Treasure Hunter, Box 1796, Costa Mesa,
items. Closed Tuesdays. Pow-Wow Indian colorful desert flowers and shrubs. Scientific
Calif.
Trading Post, 19967 Ventura Blvd., East name—common name—bonsai section—in-
Woodland Hills, Calif. Open Sundays. formative—artistic—fascinating—trade secrets EXCITING ADVENTURE locating hidden loot,
on germinating difficult seeds. The most out- treasure, relics, etc., with powerful electronic
ANCIENT, ARIZONA cliff dweller pottery, 700 M-Scope locator. Lightweight. Guaranteed.
years old, for sale piece by piece. 50c for standing book of its kind ever published—a
source and reference book of quality with Very easy terms. Send for free booklet, inter-
list, descriptions and prices, to help pay for esting customer reports. Fisher Research, Dept.
this ad. Dick Sherman, Umatilla, Oregon. permanent value. Price 50c. Clyde Robin, P.O.
Box 2091, Castro Valley, California. KJY; Palo Alto, Calif. 9 4 3 ^
NEW TRANSISTOR instrument detects buried
AN ARBORETUM-NURSERY in the hot dry hi-
• MAPS desert of "Baroque Stature." Impressive . . .
coins, firearms, treasures, gold, silver. $19.95,
up. Free catalog. Relco A-18, Box 10563,
SECTIONIZED COUNTY maps — San Bernardino our hi-desert natives, in the bio-discontinuity
Houston 1 8, Texas.
$3; Riverside $ 1 ; Imperial, small $ 1 , large matrix (precocial micro-organisms, a few ang-
$2; San Diego $1.25; Inyo $2.50; Kern $1.25, stroms, in the electron microscope). Is why our FIND LOST or hidden treasures with new tran-
other California counties $1.25 each. Nevada root-systems, of strong gene action during sistor metal detector, underwater metal de-
counties $1 each. Include 4 percent sales tax. germination development and evolution, can tectors, scintillation counters, etc. Free litera-
Topographic maps of ail mapped western be transplanted almost anywhere in the ture. Gardiner Electronics, Dept. 5 1 , 4729
areas. Westwide Maps Co., 114 West Third world. Rancho Environmental Nursery, 71554 North 7th Ave., Phoenix, Arizona.
Street, Los Angeles 13, California. Samarkand, Twentynine Palms, Calif. 92277.
From Renfro's Real Estate, Smoketree District,
570 MINES and mineral deposit locations in
go 1 '/2 miles north on Lupine, 6 blocks west • WESTERN GOODS
San Bernardino County. Sectionized map giv-
on Samarkand. (One ad worth $2 on one COLLECTORS ITEM. "Penny-in-a-Bottle.' Tiny
ing name each mine, type of mineral deposit.
Prosopis chilensis-europaeus Mesquite.) bottles hand blown around a mint new Lin-
305 locations Kern Country, plus selected
gem, mineral localities. $3 each map. Bar- EL RANCHO Galapagos Cactus Growers. You coln penny one at a time. Be the first to
wood Co., Box 148, Fontana, Calif. are invited to visit our greenhouses and cactus show it. Only 50c postpaid. Wholesale litera-
ture free. Tri-City Supply, Box 156-D, Vista,
gardens on the east slope of Copper Moun-
GOING CAMPING? Take along a map of each Calif. 92083.
tain. Star Route 1, Box 710, Twentynine
state listing nearly 10,000 campsites. Full in-
Palms, California. GHOST TOWN items: Sun-colored glass, ame-
formation on facilities and reservations. Con-
RARE SEEDS: Cacti, Succulents, Exotics, over 700 thyst to royal purple; ghost railroads ma-
venient spiral bound, 5-1/2 x 8-1/2 size.
kinds, fascinating, gorgeous flowers,- plants terials, tickets; limited odd items from camps
$3.95 postpaid. IMCO, Box 2121-D, Menlo
also available. Illustrated catalogue 25c. of the 60s. Write your interest—Box 64-D,
Park, California 94028. _
New Mexico Cactus Research, Box 787D, Smith, Nevada.
U. S. TOPOGRAPHIC MAPS, western states. 75c
Belen, New Mexico.
each plus postage. Del Gagnon Real Estate
Company, 73612 Highway 111, Palm Desert, • MISCELLANEOUS
California. Phone 346-1 101. • REAL ESTATE GOLD NUGGETS (imitation] with quartz show-
ing through, it looks like gold, no two alike,
WEEKEND RANCH or build second home at foot
• MINING plain nuggets, watch charms, stickpins,
of Mt. Whitney "Indian Springs," 1 to 20
$10.00 dozen assorted as you wish, or will
acres on paved road, electricity. Out of this
ASSAYS. COMPLETE, accurate, guaranteed. High- send one of each as samples, $4 prepaid.
world setting. Raise horses, fish Sierra
est quality spectrographic. Only $5.00 per Davis, R 1, Box 2060, Zuni Road, Apache
streams, explore fabulous rock formations,
sample. Reed Engineering, 620-R So. Ingle- Junction, Arizona.
relax in the beauty of incredible views of
wood Ave., Inglewood, California.
mountains, desert and valley. Phone Mr. GRAND CANYON Expeditions, river and trail
WANTED: One Metallic Meteorite, weight 1 to Oyler, TR 6-4105, Lone Pine, Calif., or write trips, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Idaho, Ari-
15 pounds. Prefer one that has been found for brochure, 124 Main Street. zona, Colorado, Mexico, Canada. 518-1/2 F
in Arizona around Winslow area. Union Min- Street, Salt Lake City, Utah 84103.
ARIZONA, LARGE level lot. Water, power, oiled
ing Co., Inc., 10th Floor Benedum-Trees Bldg.,
streets, $495 complete, $10 down, 10 month, NEW POCKET magnetometer automatically re-
Pittsburgh, Pa. 15222.
no interest. Free pictures, map. Write: Box acts to magnetic fields in ore samples, veins,
ABSOLUTELY BEST. Mineral-Metal Identification 486, Kingman, Arizona 86401. float, etc. Pinpoint source of these fields. For
charts. Quickly identifies valuable minerals. laboratory or field use. $24.95. $10 down,
25 " x l 9 " — $ 2 . , with plastic cover: $3. Kenny 400,000,000 ACRES government public land in
$5 month. Free literature. Dee Company,
K. Jorvestad, Chart Service—DM, 1277 Bord- 25 states. Some low as $1.00 acre. 1966
Box 7263-MB, Houston 8, Texas.
well, Colton, Calif. 92324. report. Details $1.00. Public Land, 422DM
Washington Building, Washington, D.C. NAVAJO FRY bread recipe. Delicious, easy for
ATTENTION WEEKEND prospectors—placer min- campers to prepare, $ 1 . Also complete line
ing. Also can work full time if desired. I have TEXAS MOUNTAINTOP ranch estate: 17-room cast iron Dutch ovens, skillets. Free list with
the land and will teach. $350 required. You stone lodge, 7 cottages—cabins, many ruins; recipes. The Country Store, Box 816, Monti-
will own dry wash machine and keep all gold 300 acres, wells, lakes; cool summers, mild cello, Utah 84535.
you mine. Possibilities unlimited. Golden Nug- winters. Write: Ed Bartholomew, Toyahvale,
get Mining Co., 314 North 7th St., Las Vegas, Texas 79786.
Nevada.
FIVE TO 15 acres—West and overlooking Salton
THE PROSPECTORS Club Newsletter: Where the Sea, 3 miles from airport and golf course, CHANGING
amateur and professional meet. A new con- $400 per acre, 2 0 % down and 5 years or
cept in treasure-hunting information. Active equal value property trade. M. Whelan, 6146 YOUR
international membership. Write for free liter- Fountain Ave-, Los Angeles, California 90039.
ature and sample copy to The Prospectors
ADDRESS?
NEWBERRY: FREE information on choice acreage.
Club, P.O. Box 729, Odessa, Texas.
Write agent Ralph Bartholomew, 354 N. New postal regulations make it important
Hartley, West Covina, California, or Burdick's that you send your change-of-address notice
• OLD COINS, STAMPS Office, Route 66, Newberry. to us promptly. And please remember to list
ROGUE RIVER Valley, Oregon ranch sites near your old address as well as your new and
DOLLARS—1878 CC Mint $3.50, very good.
your Zip Code.
1878-79-80-81-82 S. Mint, 1883-84-85-99- Grants Pass and Medford, 5 to 40 acres low
1900-01-04 O Mint uncirculated $3 each. at $150 down and $35 monthly. Free catalog. DESERT Magazine,Palm Desert, Calif. 92260
100 page catalog, Coins, 50c. Shultz, Salt Cal-Ore Ranches, 1054-DX South Riverside,
Lake City, Utah 841 10. Medford, Oregon.

May, 1966 / Desert Magazine / 45

 Jack's
Jottings Letters requesting answers must include stamped self-addressed envelope

Three Cheers for Delaney . . . I Lava Mystery . . .

Each year we devote the May issue of To the Editor: Jack Delaney's four stones in To the Editor: Your readers might like to
DESERT to The Different World of the March issue of DESERT were all thorough- know what I've learned about diamonds in
ly enjoyable—despite the fact that I flunked California. They were found in the Johannes-
Utah. Choral and I have spent many plea- the Coachella Valley Date Quiz! berg area when there was mining there, but
sant and exciting days in the Beehive It is really a pleasure to have the Southwest few, if any, have been reported recently. An
State always finding new thrills and ex- which I love so much described in the stories old timer told me that in the lava of extinct
which Mr. Delaney writes. I hope to visit Idyll- volcanoes, the vug holes often hold these
periences. It would be impossible to cover stones and he had found one which cut into
wild the next time that I am in the area, since
all of Utah in one issue so we have se- the description of the resort town sounds so a carat stone. The best time to search for them
enchanting. Many of us Southwesterners tip is on a dark night with a flashlight. The vol-
lected articles which will give you at canoes appear about 4() miles above Johannes-
our hats to DESERT—but a special tip of the
least a feeling of the adventure you will hat goes out to Jack Delaney. berg on Highway 3 ^ - The lava is rough and
encounter. I want to thank Emanuel you should wear heavy shoes.
JIM McKINNEY, In the April issue you had a story about
Floor and his efficient staff of the Utah National City, California. the bentonite day deposits around Newberry
Travel Council for assistance and also which hold water for artificial lakes. I under-
Frank Jensen, of Cedar City, a great Surviving Reviving . . . stand that blue clay chimneys similar to those
of South Africa exist in that area also. Some-
p h o t o g r a p h e r and writer who has To the Editor: Please send me your latest book day a lucky rockhound might just happen to
"covered" Utah for years. catalog. I have just received my own copy of turn up a diamond deposit there.
Cooking and Camping on The Desert and RETTA EWERS.
Since comparatively new Lake Powell think it is really wonderful. The chapter by Mr. Riverside.
Pepper on desert driving and surviving is
is constantly growing in area and services something that has been needed for sometime. Earp is Everywhere!
anyone wanting detailed information on There are many new people to the Nevada Test To the Ed/tor: In your March, 1966, issue of
Site from the East and with summer coming DESERT magazine, on page 36, there is an
the area should -write to the Superinten-
on you can be sure the book will be highly article by W. D. Stephens entitled "Surprise,
dent, Glen Canyon National Recreational read. Keep sending your book catalog as I Mr. Earp!' stating that Wyatt Earp drove
Area, Page, Arizona or our advertisers use it continuously for reference on desert through the San Gorgonio Pass in 1862
books whenever people inquire on them for stagecoaches full of "gold hungry prospec-
who will be happy to answer questions their own libraries. tors." Impossible, for in 1862 Wyatt Earp was
about their areas. As of this date there MRS. MONA C. LUPO, not in the San Gorgonio Pass nor was he in
are services at Wahweap Basin, Rainbow NTS Librarian the state of California. He did not arrive in
Bridge, Hall's Crossing and Hite Marina. Mercury, Nevada. California until 186-1 so it remains a mystery
just how he could be in Iowa and driving a
Operated by Art and Bill Greene the stage through the San Gorgonio Pass in 1862.
Wahweap Lodge and Marina near Glen Glad Tidings . . . Don t you agree that this would be a tremen-
Canyon Dam and Page, Arizona, is the To the Editor: I like and am glad to have the dous physical feat?
three Arizona articles in the April DESERT. Much has been written about what Wyatt
largest and most complete. A ferry pres- Earp did and did not do. In fact, it has gotten
My compliments for a fine magazine.
ently operating at Hite across the Colo- so out of hand that people are making up wild
FRANK P. KNIGHT, stories, confusing legends and myths about (he-
rado will be replaced by a new bridge Director, man and his times, of which very few know
scheduled to open in early summer. Arizona Dept. of Mineral Resources anything. For 25 years I have been collecting
Phoenix and researching on every phase of this man's
Although Utah's Canyonlands was life, his family and associates, and last June-
made a National Park last year it will had the pleasure of annotating and writing the
tion on how to build your own Grass- foreward for a reprint of an article written in
be sometime before extensive roads arc- 1929 by John Phillip Clum entitled "It All
built through this scenic and rugged area. Hopper with complete plans and photo- Happened in Tombstone," and published by
To see it before it gets too "civilized" I graphs can be obtained by sending $10 Northland Press, Flagstaff, Arizona. One of
my annotations for this article states that the
strongly recommend a 4-wheel guided to J. W. Black, Paradise Motors, 5651 famous so-called "Gunfight at the O.K. Cor
tour, an experience you will never forget. Skyway, Paradise, California. Black also ral" did not happen at the O.K. Corral, the
See advertisers in this issue for the tours. sells all of the parts needed to assemble first time this fact has appeared in print.
Also, this summer I am happy to say m the
the vehicle, including tires. town of Tombstone, Arizona, my personal and
Speaking of backcounty vehicles I private collection of material relating to the
have received numerous letters from rea- Choral Pepper, editor of DESERT Earps will be on permanent display for one-
Magazine, has just returned from a three reason basically—to clear up so many of the
ders of DESERT and Erie Stanley Gard- errors, mysteries and mis-statements concerning
ner's newest book "Hunting Lost Mines week expedition to Baja with Erie Stan- the long and fascinating life of Wyatt Earp.
by Helicopter" asking about the Grass- ley Gardner where she divided her time I enjoy your magazine and hope that you
between the helicopters and Grass-Hop- will print this letter so that people will realize
Hopper, a queer looking vehicle capable that in 1862 Wyatt Earp was not driving a
of going places even a 4-wheel can't go. pers. The first article in a series on the stage through the San Gorgonio Pass. I am also
It is built by }. W. Black, a mechanical expedition during which they found new at work at the present time on what will
cave paintings and other discoveries will eventually be three volumes concerning Earps
genius who also builds other back country life and exploits, which will be completely and
equipment such as the Pak-Jak and Bur- start in the June issue of DESERT historically documented from cradle to grave
Magazine. and I hope at long last will clear up so many
rito. Black built the Grass-Hopper for of the mysteries.
Erie Stanley Gardner for his Baja Cali- JOHN D. GILCHRIESE,
fornia expeditions. It has a special chasis ^ Field Historian,
I 'Diversity of Arizona
and uses a Volkswagen engine. Informa- Library 314.

46 / Desert M a g a z i n e / May, 1966

Every Desert Traveler Should Have This Book! !

Cooking and Camping onthe Desert

By Choral Pepper, Editor Desert Magazine
PUBLISHED FEBRUARY 1966 by THE NAYLOR COMPANY, SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS

Before you load one piece of camping gear, before you lay in your stock of provisions, read this
book from cover to cover. You'll have a better time on your trip because you'll eat better and
travel lighter. In addition to recipes for an amazing variety of flavorsome dishes that can be pre-
pared in camp without fuss or furor, Choral Pepper tells you how to mix flapjack batter without
a bowl . . . how to use your Dutch oven for a complete meal in one utensil . . . how to put plastic
bags and aluminum foil to inspired uses . . . how partial preparation at home can give you more
time for having fun on the desert.

Special Chapter by Foreword

JACK PEPPER by
Driving and Surviving on the Desert COOKING and ERLE STANLEY GARDNER
CAMPING
on the DESERT
CHORAL PEPPER

The new revolutionary way of get- "Choral Pepper is a wizard in the

Two-color printing, illustrated
ting water for survival from a des- art of desert cookery . . . It will
chapter headings and a twelve-
ert still. Did you remember to come as a distinct surprise to
page picture section of exclusive
bring an axe and other basic most people how many, how
desert camping photographs
equipment which this seasoned varied and palatable are dishes
make this book a most attractive
desert traveler lists? Do you know that can be prepared on the
gift. Order your own copy today—
how to drive in sand? If you get desert. This cookbook opens the
include an extra one for a friend.
stuck, do you know how to get out? magic gates."
Do you know what to do if you —ERLE STANLEY GARDNER
break down?

ONLY $3.95

Send Check or Money Order plus DESERT MAGAZINE BOOK DEPARTMENT California residents add 16 cents sales tax
25 cents for mailing fo: Palm Desert, California 92260 No C.O.D's or charges, please.
SET A DATE FOR YOUR AUDIENCE WITH THE QUEEN

An ancient kingdom lies in ruins about her. This is Queen At Bryce you can ride horseback or take a hike down the
Victoria, longest ruling British monarch, who still reigns su- many trails that explore the mysteries of the canyon depths.
preme (and has for centuries) over Utah's incomparable Bryce Pleasure-filled activities also await you at Utah's other two
Canyon. Eroded limestone formations—absolutely breathtak- national parks, nine national monuments, nine national
ing in their reds, pinks and creamy whites—change color forests, 27 state parks and 22 major lakes and reservoirs.
with each passing hour. Bryce Canyon National Park — one And there's nothing quite like the thrill of seeing Temple
of many marvels you'll see in Utah's fabulous Color Country. Square in Salt Lake City or "floating" on Great Salt Lake.

Lake Powell is well stocked with trout and bass. Summer Shakespearean Festival in Cedar City. The Manti Temple in Utah's Panorama Land

Discover the Different World of Mail this coupon today for your FREE Utah Travel Kit: full-
color Utah booklet; complete fact book on attractions, events,
accommodations, rates; and highway map.

UTAH TRAVEL COUNCIL, DEPT. 1 5 7

COUNCIL HALL • CAPITOL HILL
SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH 84114

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A visit to Utah is second best only to living and investing in Utah.