Textiles Midterm
Textiles Midterm
Textiles Midterm
0_DEFINE_[TEXTILES]
10.0_GLOSSARY
what is it?
bergen
south hampton hamburg vancouver le havre new york housten marseille rotterdam antwerp gwangyang dalian qinhuangdao tianjin qingdao ningbo guangzhou pulsan
ulsan
yokahama nagoya
long beach
Paci c Ocean
textile - any filament, fibre, or yarn that can be made into fabric or cloth, and the resulting material itself. The term is derived from the Latin textilis and the French texere, meaning to weave, and it originally referred only to woven fabrics. It has, however, come to include fabrics produced by other methods. Thus, threads, cords, ropes, braids, lace, embroidery, nets, and fabrics made by weaving, knitting, bonding, felting, or tufting are textiles. Some definitions of the term textile would also include those products obtained by the papermaking principle that have many of the properties associated with conventional fabrics.
source: http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/589392/textile Images 1-5 furore by lamaconcept.nl
Pac c Ocean
Atlantic Ocean
Indian Ocean
tubarao
7.0 applications
9.0 innovation
10.0 glossary
Producer
European Union
China
United States
Hong Kong
Republic of Korea
India
Justin Baatjes_&_Tim de Beer Advanced Design 1 Supervisors: Camia Young & Jordan Saunders
Value ($)
80.2 Billion
65.2 Billion
12.5 Billion
12.2 Billion
10.3 Billion
10.2 Billion
3.0_SUPPLY CHAIN
4.0_RAW_MATERIALS_ANIMAL
ANIMAL
PLANT
SYNTHETIC
MINERAL
GRASS
raw material
Raw materials
Textile plants
Spinning Weaving Dying Printing Accessories
Apparel plants
Distrib. centres
Retail stores
Customers
goat
sheep
alpaca
vicuna
llama
camel
angora rabbit
musk ox
wool
coat
jacket
poncho
blanket
metal
cloth of gold
stainless steel
glass
rope
cloth
fireproofing
acoustic
insect netting
insulation
cables
space suits
basalt
asbestos
siding
acoustic
fire blanket
vinyl sheeting
raw material
textile application
4.0_RAW_MATERIALS_ANIMAL
ANIMAL
PLANT
SYNTHETIC
MINERAL
4.0_RAW_MATERIALS_SYNTHETIC
GRASS
ANIMAL
PLANT
SYNTHETIC
MINERAL
spandex
exercise apparel
shaped garments
pillows
SHEEP GOAT
GRASS RUSH
polyester
cushioning
insulation
bottles
films
hologram film
vehicle interiors
raw material
CARBON FIBRE
olefin wallpaper rope
vehicle interiors
straw
bamboo
hats
nylon
fabric
carpets
guitar string
rope
bridal veil
fishing line
coir
(coconut fibre)
brushes
floor tiles
twine
doormats
matresses
ingeo
nettle hemp rice cotton pulpwood paper
apparel
bottles
casein
cotton flax jute Ramie hemp bamboo pina
clothing
eye mask
hat
buttons
glue
carbon
grass rush hemp sisal
rope
sports
automotive
arimid
silk worm
cable
rope
speaker diaphram
sails
bulletproof vest
mulberry silk
wild silk
Raw materials and some of their applications for textiles acrylic socks hats gloves scarfs sweaters awnings
5.0_COMPOSITIONAL PROCESSES
weaving
knitting
knotting
crocheting
felting
6.0_MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Bale of raw material
BALE BREAKER
CARDING
PRODUCTS
CLOTH
WINDING WARPING SIZING/ SLASHING/ DRESSING WEAVING
SILVER LAP
WILLOWING BATTING
COMBING
DRAWING
BLOWING ROOM
BREAKER SCUTCHER
SLUBBING
LAPPING
CARDING ROOM
YARN (CHEESE)
REELING BUNDLING
BUNDLE
INTERMEDIATE
SPINNING
two yarns interlaced at right angles to produce or fabric or cloth longitudinal threads are called the warp and lateral threads are called the weft the method of how the warp and weft are woven together affects the characteristic of the fabric produced a loom is used to hold the warp threads in place while the weft threads are weaved through there are three different types of weave - plain weave - satin weave - twill
knitted fabric is created by consecutive rows of loops. Each stich is held on a needle until another loop is passed through it knitting has much more elasticity than woven fabrics due to the meandering loops knitting wales variations courses and weft and warp knit and pearl
fastening material together by tying or interweaving, often with rope other materials used include - sting - twine - strap - chain knots weaken the material that they are created in at the place where the bend occurs a knot works by creating tension on itself in the direction of the load that is exerted on the rope
similar to knitting, the process involves rows of loops however the material is pulled and twisted by a hook only one stitch is active active a time and it is pulled through the next and can then be repeated until a chain is formed most common materials include yarn or string unlike knitting each loop is only linked to the loops on either side of it so if one link was to break, the structure would stay intact and not unravel
non-woven cloth that is created by matting, condensing and pressing woollen fibres different strengths and toughnesss can be created for different functions such as clothing or construction differernt processes of manufacturing felt create different products - wet felting - needle felting - carroting wet felting is where wool fibres are put through a process of constant friction whilst being lubricated by moisture thus building up a cloth needle felting is an arts craft where multiple needles
MULE SPINNING
FINE ROVING
ROVING
RING SPINNING
FINISHING SCUTCHER
SEWING THREAD
DOUBLING BLEACHING WINDING CABLING GASSING SPOOLING
blowing room
carding machine
spinning machine
loop
bight
plain
twill
elbow
starting end
1. bale opener 2. pre-cleaner 3. homogenous mixer 4. storage and feeding machine 5. condenser 6. card 7. silver coiler
roving machine
working end
knot components
crochet components
Blow room is the starting of the spinning operation where the fibre is opened, cleaned, mixed , micro dust removed and evened
satin
A carding machine has wire teeth that comb and clean wool, cotton, or other fibers before the fibers are spun into yarn.
7.0_APPLICATIONS
Why use architectural textiles? The use of architectural textiles offers a number of advantages over more traditional materials in both practical design and environmental terms.
8.0_GEOTEXTILES Geotextiles are permeable fabrics which, when used in association with soil, have the ability to seperate, filter, reinforce, protect, or drain
ROADING
PERMANENT ROAD
By separating the different layers of materials, Geotextiles stabilise road constructions that are designed to resist dynamic and static stresses..
PARKING AREA
Areas subjected to considerable static loads require a stable bearing course. Geotextiles provide this by separating the different layers of materials which is essential to maintain the the bearing capacity. Bitumen-saturated Geotextil prevents surface water from penetrating the bearing course, preventing washing out of fines and reducing the occurrence of fissures and cracks considerably Geotextiles placed below the top gravel layer increase the bearing capacity of the road to withstand continuous heavy traffic loads. No cars, tractors or other vehicles will become stuck in the gravel.
DRAINAGE TRENCHES
ASPHALT MAINTENANCE
SURFACE DRAINS
Surface drains are likely to become silted up from the surrounding soil. Geotextiles keep the fines separated from the drainage layer ensuring the effectiveness of the drain system
TEMPORARY ROADS
SURFACES SPORTIVES
Land in lawn natural, artificial, sand, or gravel are stabilized with geotextiles thanks to the excellent drainage they offer in any type of surfaces. In the construction of foundations and basement walls, Geotextiles ensure a clean and effective circumferential drain, which e.g. prevents damage caused by dampness.
ROAD WIDENING
Geotextiles ensure separation and stability between subsoil and added road building materials.
BUILDING DRAINS
AIRPORTS
In constructions with heavy demands of the surface, Geotextiles stabilise the foundations enabling them to withstand dynamic loads.
FOUNDATIONS
When placed under foundations, Geotextiles replace the blinding layer. It is simple, effective and economical
RAILWAYS
The rapidly increasing speed and weight of trains place heavy demands on the bearing course. Geotextiles stabilise the foundation, enabling it to withstand dynamic loads.
technical textiles
CONCRETE FLOORS
Below concrete floors, the permeable Geotextile protects the drainage layer from contamination from the concrete and the subsoil.
Placing the Geotextile on the bottom of the trench increases the bearing capacity considerably...
STORAGE AREAS
Using Geotextiles prevents mingling or loss of fines in the bearing courses as well as clogging of the drainage layer.
Curtainsiders offer Most canopies are made superior durability and from acrylic-coated, cargo protection for polyester reinforced easy, P.V.C. convenient and safe fire-retardant fabric handling of goods. They specially treated to are long-wearing prevent moisture and easy to clean and wicking. maintain.
Resistant Polyurethane
These are designed for containing diesel, oil or waste from vehicles or motorised equipment both in use and when being cleaned or serviced.
slope
Manufactured from XR5 Thermally bonded wool fabric because conditions and polyester require an extremely insulation for use in tough, chemical and UV the building industry. resistant material. Products designed for Floating covers are ideal ceilings, walls and floors of or other Waste Treatment residential and ponds commercial buildings to assist in energy efficiency
Webbing is a strong fabric woven as a flat strip or tube of varying width and fibres often used in place of rope. Originally made of cotton or flax, most modern webbing is made of synthetic fibers such as nylon, polypropylene or polyester
ROOFS
Geotextiles are used as sliding layer, mechanical protection of roof membranes and as filter protections of any drainage layers.
Bitumen-saturated geotextil absorbs the stresses from cracks or joints in the old surface, preventing reflection through denisphalt composite wearing courses. Grass fields, cinders and gravel courts/grounds are stabilised with Geotextiles due to the effective drainage, ensuring an even surface.
ROOF GARDENS
Geotextiles are used as separation layer, mechanical protection of roof membranes and as filter protection of any drainage layer.
SPORT GROUNDS
CONSTRUCTION
SLOPES
With Geotextiles under the top layer, the slope will withstand subsoil water, rainwater and water from melted snow which would, otherwise, wash out the fines.
GROUND SYSTEMS
9.0_INNOVATION
9.0_INNOVATION
name
Fabriled
Blast protection, sound damping, industrial and geo-fabrics, protective garments, sports apparel & accessories
Litmuscreen
multi-dimensional
innovation
transformational repurposed [process]
Mute room
products
Hammock Chair
Shutters
intelligent
transformational
Transformational materials undergo a physical metamorphis based on environmental stimuli. This change may occur automatically based on inherent properties of the material, or it may be user driven. Transformational materials provide a variety of benefits, including waster reduction, enhanced ergonomics, solar control, illumination, as well as unique phenomenologyical effects. Transformational products offer mutliple functions where one would be expected, provide benefits that few might have imagined, and help us understand the world differetly.
category
explanation
Ultratouch
Brush
Profil
Double-faced felt
Eclipse collection
100% Olefin
Repurposed waster material, nontoxic manufacturing process, recyclable (up to ten times)
jelara
Fabric sculptures & installations, mobile fabric lightweight constructions, textile design objects
Bump
a b c d
100% polyester or blends with other natural and synthetic textiles including cotton, wool, rayon, nylon, acrylic, spandex, etc.
Apparel, hoisery, medical & performance wraps, gloves, equestrian products, footwear, sleep pads
Inego
PLA Textiles
Drapery
krystal weave
Flat window panels, room dividers, decorative screens, theatrical back drops
circulation
Floor rug or wall covering; may be used as an acoustic treatment for interiors
Holofiber
Recycled leather
Gore Tenara KT
100% polytetrafluroethlene
3D fabric solutions for outdoor use, fabric sculptures & installations, lightweight fabric constructions, fabric design objects
cityscape
Floor rug or wall covering; may be used as an acoustic treatment for interiors
Stomatex
Sonic Fabric
Facett
Furniture
Tyvek
Architectural, interior design, & fashion applications; curtains, clothing, bags, window displays Textiles, clothing, upholstery, automotive, sporting goods, household appliances, portable electronics, cosmetics, optical instruments
Fabriled
Delight Cloth
Soft shelf
Industrial wool felt, nylon stitching, Velcro hook & loop fasteners, aluminium eyelets
Flexible storage
Morphotex
Chromogenic Fiber
Polyester, nylon
Blast protection, sound damping, industrial and geo-fabrics, protective garments, sports apparel & accessories
c] indication for change between material & product innovations. d] catalogue of textile material innovations.
Cork fabric
Windochine
Abaca, raffia, jute, buntal palm, pinapple fiber, rattan skin, bamboo silk
Freek
Rugged carpet
Clouds
Fabric, rubber
Cell
Litmuscreen
Doubleface
Woven Horsehair
Screens, wall & window panels, room dividers, lighting, installations, acoustic treatments
TeXtreme
Carbon Fiber
Dream71
Fiber wall
Plains Collection
Shades, panel track systems, room dividers, decorative screens, theatrical backdrops, fabrics for encapsulation in PETG resin
digital dawn
Silk, electroluminescence,
Trasta
Liminal Air
Interior cloudscape
Furore
Mute room
Tarrot
Interior design
Repeat
50-55% cotton, 24-26% polyster, 21-24% rayon, all woven on a Jacquard loom
Seating
felt rocks
Zetix
Monofilament polyester elastomers wrapped with ultrahigh molecular-weight polyethlene (UHMWPE) & woven together with ballistic nylon
Parametre
Partitions, celilings, window treatments, dividers, screens, wall hangings/cove rings, decorative panels, light diffusion
Les Tuiles
Textiles bricks
Casula
Fabric
Liturgical ceremonies
Digital nature
Vinyl
choreographed geomtery
Textile installation, wearable garment, textile interface for human bodies, transformative spatial device
Vy & Elle
airtecture
Vitroflex [natural rubber & integrated glass fiber fabric], Polyester, Polyamid, Hostaflon, Pnuematic muscles, Steel rails
Lightweight structures
Public Receptors
A set of textile structures made of different types of wool felt [Karakul felt, SA Felt, BN felt), zipper, & fastening devies [ribbons, elastic straps]
Soft House
3D knit FR-coated polymer, Svennson fabric with woven aluminium inserts, integrated printed photovoltaic cells & smart switching network, Li-ion rechargeable batteries
Climate control, energy harvesting & distribution; space division & privacy
Hammock Chair
Wave
Lighttex
Polyester, PVC
Daylight control in modular walls, curved and flat modular ceiling panels, window and skylight coverings Real-time monitoring of vital signs, orientation, direction, and impact for sports, medical ambulatory patient monitoring, and defense applications
NanoSphere
RPET Bag
repurposed
Seating
Raum(zeit) Kleider
ultra_performing
multi-dimensional
Textile installation, body architecture, transformative object, clothing, furniture, shelter, body extension, second skin
Zip
Flooring
Shutters
YaZa Collection
intelligent
transformational
recombinant
Roller shades, roman shades, panel track systems, room dividers, decorative screens, theatrical backdrops, fabrics for encapsulation in PETG resin
Bioharness
Wool, natural fibers, nylon, polyester, polypropylene & polyamide yarns; custom combinations available
Flooring
interfacial
repurposed [process]
9.0_INNOVATION
Ultratouch
Natural cotton-fibre insulation
9.0_INNOVATION
Brush
Interior
Profil
Double-faced felt
Eclipse collection
100% Olefin
Repurposed waster material, nontoxic manufacturing process, recyclable (up to ten times)
jelara
Fabric sculptures & installations, mobile fabric lightweight constructions, textile design objects
Bump
Inego
PLA Textiles
Drapery
krystal weave
Flat window panels, room dividers, decorative screens, theatrical back drops
circulation
Floor rug or wall covering; may be used as an acoustic treatment for interiors
Holofiber
100% polyester or blends with other natural and synthetic textiles including cotton, wool, rayon, nylon, acrylic, spandex, etc.
Apparel, hoisery, medical & performance wraps, gloves, equestrian products, footwear, sleep pads
Recycled leather
Gore Tenara KT
100% polytetrafluroethlene
3D fabric solutions for outdoor use, fabric sculptures & installations, lightweight fabric constructions, fabric design objects
cityscape
Floor rug or wall covering; may be used as an acoustic treatment for interiors
Stomatex
Sonic Fabric
Facett
Furniture
Tyvek
Architectural, interior design, & fashion applications; curtains, clothing, bags, window displays Textiles, clothing, upholstery, automotive, sporting goods, household appliances, portable electronics, cosmetics, optical instruments
Delight Cloth
Soft shelf
Industrial wool felt, nylon stitching, Velcro hook & loop fasteners, aluminium eyelets
Flexible storage
Morphotex
Chromogenic Fiber
Polyester, nylon
Windochine
Abaca, raffia, jute, buntal palm, pinapple fiber, rattan skin, bamboo silk
Freek
Rugged carpet
Clouds
Fabric, rubber
Cell
Woven Horsehair
Screens, wall & window panels, room dividers, lighting, installations, acoustic treatments
TeXtreme
Carbon Fiber
Dream71
Fiber wall
digital dawn
Trasta
Liminal Air
Interior cloudscape
Furore
felt rocks
Zetix
Monofilament polyester elastomers wrapped with ultrahigh molecularweight polyethlene (UHMWPE) & woven together with ballistic nylon
Parametre
Partitions, celilings, window treatments, dividers, screens, wall hangings/cove rings, decorative panels, light diffusion
Les Tuiles
Textiles bricks
Vy & Elle
airtecture
Vitroflex [natural rubber & integrated glass fiber fabric], Polyester, Polyamid, Hostaflon, Pnuematic muscles, Steel rails
Lightweight structures
Public Receptors
A set of textile structures made of different types of wool felt [Karakul felt, SA Felt, BN felt), zipper, & fastening devies [ribbons, elastic straps]
Soft House
3D knit FR-coated polymer, Svennson fabric with woven aluminium inserts, integrated printed photovoltaic cells & smart switching network, Li-ion rechargeable batteries
Climate control, energy harvesting & distribution; space division & privacy
RPET Bag
Seating
Raum(zeit) Kleider
Textile installation, body architecture, transformative object, clothing, furniture, shelter, body extension, second skin
Zip
Flooring
repurposed
Defined as surrogates or materials that are used in place of materials conventionally used in an application. Repurposed materials provide several benefits, such as replacing precious raw materials with less-endagered, more plentiful ones; diverting products from the waste stream; implimenting less-toxic manufacturing; and defying convention.
ultra_performing
Ultra-performing materials are stronger, lighter, more durable, & more flexible than their conventional counterparts. They shatter known boundaries and necessitate new thinking about shaping our physical environment.
multi-dimensional
A new trend exploits the z-axis in the manufacture of a wide variety of materials for various uses ranging from fabrics to wall and ceiling treatments. Greater depth allows thin materials to become more structurally stable, and materials with enhanced texture and richness are often more visually interesting.
intelligent
Intelligent is a catchall term for materials that are designed to improve their environment and that often take inspiration from biological systems. They can act actively or passively and can be high or low-tec. Many materials in this catergory indicate a focus on the manipulation of the micro-scopic scale.
9.0_INNOVATION
Ultratouch
9.0_INNOVATION
Brush
Eclipse collection
Inego
Veritex
Deployable temporary housing, dynamic structures & habitats, automotive components, adaptive reinforcement, trapped tooling
Active Protection Smart impact-protection textile Eco leather Leather flooring tiles System tile
Blast protection, sound damping, industrial and geo-fabrics, protective garments, sports apparel & accessories
Cork fabric
Doubleface
Plains Collection
Shades, panel track systems, room dividers, decorative screens, theatrical backdrops, fabrics for encapsulation in PETG resin
Tarrot
Interior design
Repeat
50-55% cotton, 24-26% polyster, 21-24% rayon, all woven on a Jacquard loom
Seating
Fibre optic Hand-tufted wool rug with fiber felt rocks optics rug
Casula
Fabric
Liturgical ceremonies
Digital nature
Vinyl
choreographed geomtery
Textile installation, wearable garment, textile interface for human bodies, transformative spatial device
Hammock Elle Folding fabric vessel and suspended Vy & knitted seat Chair
Wave
Lighttex
Polyester, PVC
Daylight control in modular walls, curved and flat modular ceiling panels, window and skylight coverings Real-time monitoring of vital signs, orientation, direction, and impact for sports, medical ambulatory patient monitoring, and defense applications
NanoSphere
YaZa Collection
Roller shades, roman shades, panel track systems, room dividers, decorative screens, theatrical backdrops, fabrics for encapsulation in PETG resin
Bioharness
Wool, natural fibers, nylon, polyester, polypropylene & polyamide yarns; custom combinations available
Flooring
transformational
Transformational materials undergo a physical metamorphis based on environmental stimuli. This change may occur automatically based on inherent properties of the material, or it may be user driven. Transformational materials provide a variety of benefits, including waster reduction, enhanced ergonomics, solar control, illumination, as well as unique phenomenologyical effects. Transformational products offer mutliple functions where one would be expected, provide benefits that few might have imagined, and help us understand the world differetly.
recombinant
Recombinant materials consist of two or more different materials that act in harmony to create a product that performs greater than the sum of its two parts. Such hybrids are created when when inexpensive or recyclable products are used as filler, when a combination allows for the acheivement of mutliple functions, when a precious resource may be emulated by combining less-precious materials, or when different materials act in symbiosis to exhibit high-performance characteristics.
interfacial
Interfacial materials, products, & systems navigate between the physical & virtual realms. As we spend greater amounts of time interacting with computer-based tools & environments, the bridges that facilitate the interation between the two worlds are subject to further scrutiny. Interfacial materials employ the latest computing & communications technologies & suggest societys further trajectory. Interfacial materials are not infallible, but they expand our capabilities into uncharted territory.
repurposed [process]
10.0_GLOSSARY
10.0_GLOSSARY
Absorbency A measure of how much amount of water a fabric can absorb. Acetate Acetate is a synthetic fiber. Acrylic Acrylic fiber is a synthetic polymer fiber that contains at least 85% acrylonitrile. Aida cloth Aida cloth is a coarse open-weave fabric traditionally used for cross-stitch. Alnage Alnage is the official supervision of the shape and quality of manufactured woolen cloth. Alpaca The wool of the Peruvian alpaca. Angora Angora refers to the hair of the Angora rabbit, or the fabric made from Angora rabbit fur. (Fabric made from angora goat is mohair.) Appliqu Appliqu is a sewing technique in which fabric shapes, lace or trim, are sewn onto a foundation fabric to create designs. Aramid Aramid fiber is a fire-resistant and strong synthetic fiber Argyle An argyle pattern is one containing diamonds in a sort of diagonal checkerboard pattern.
Camel's Hair Camel's Hair is a natural fiber from the camel. Camel hair can produce a variety of different coarseness of yarn. This fiber is a novelty fiber spun by hand-spinners. Canvas Canvas is an extremely heavy-duty fabric used for making sails, tents, marquees, and other functions where sturdiness is required Canvas work Canvas work is embroidery on canvas. Carding Carding is the processing of brushing raw or washed fibers to prepare them as textiles. Carpet A carpet' is any loom-woven, felted textile or grass floor covering. Cashmere Cashmere is wool from the Cashmere goat. Cellulose Cellulose; this fiber processed to make cellophane and rayon, and more recently Modal, a textile derived from beechwood cellulose. Cheesecloth Cheesecloth is a loosewoven cotton cloth, such as is used in pressing cheese curds. Chiffon Chiffon is a sheer fabric made of silk or rayon. Chino cloth Chino cloth is a kind of twill fabric, usually made primarily from cotton. Chintz Chintz is calico cloth printed with flowers and other devices in different colors. It was originally of Eastern manufacture. Coir Coir is a coarse fibre extracted from the fibrous outer shell of a coconut. Colorfast (Colourfast) A term used to describe whether the colors bleed or not in washing. Cord Cord is twisted fibre, usually intermediate between rope and string. It is also used as a shortened form of corduroy. Corduroy Corduroy is a durable cloth. Cotton Cotton is a soft fibre that grows around the seeds of the cotton plant, a shrub native to the tropical and subtropical regions of both the Old World and the New World. The fibre is most often spun into thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile. Crash Crash is a rough fabric made from yarns that are usually undyed. The coarsest type is called Russian crash. Linen is generally used for the warp yarn, while linen and jute are used for the filler. Crepe Crepe is a silk fabric of a gauzy texture, having a peculiar crisp or crimpy appearance. Crinoline Crinoline was originally a stiff fabric with a weft of horse-hair and a warp of cotton or linen thread. The fabric first appeared around 1830. Cross-stitch Cross-stitch is a popular form of counted-thread embroidery in which X-shaped stitches are used to form a picture. Crochet The word crochet describes the process of creating fabric from a length of cord, yarn, or thread with a hooked tool. Crochet hook A crochet hook is a type of needle, usually with a hook at one end, used to draw thread through knotted loops.
Double weave Double weave is a type of advanced weave. It is done by interlacing two or more sets of warps with two or more sets of filling yarns. Dowlas Dowlas is the name given to a plain cloth, similar to sheeting, but usually coarser. Dyes Dye is used to color fabric. There are two main types: Natural dyes and synthetic dyes. The process is called dyeing.
Heddle Common component of a loom used to separate warp threads for passage of the weft. Commonly made of cord or wire. Hem To hem a piece of cloth (in sewing), a garment worker folds up a cut edge, folds it up again, and then sews it down. Hemp The main uses of hemp fibre are rope, sacking, carpet, nets and webbing. Hemp is also being used in increasing quantities in paper manufacturing. Huckaback Huckaback is a type of coarse absorbent cotton or linen fabric used for making towels.
Nainsook Nainsook is a fine, soft muslin fabric, often to used to make babies clothing. Nap Nap is a term for the raised surface of certain cloth, such as flannel. Needlepoint Needlepoint is a form of canvas work created on a mesh canvas. The stitching threads used may be wool, silk, or rarely cotton. Needlework Needlework is another term for the handicraft of decorative sewing and textile arts. Anything that uses a needle for construction can be called needlework. Net Net is a device made by fibers woven in a grid-like structure, as in fishing net, a soccer goal, a butterfly net, or the court divider in tennis Nonwoven fabric Non-woven textiles are those which are neither woven nor knit, for example felt. Non-wovens are typically not strong (unless reinforced by a backing), and do not stretch. They are cheap to manufacture. Nylon Nylon is a synthetic polymer, a plastic. Nylon fibres are used to make many synthetic fabrics and women's stockings.
Sateen Sateen is a fabric formed with a satin weave where the floats are perpendicular to the selvage of the goods. Satin A Satin is a cloth that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. It is formed by a sequence of broken twill floats in either the warp or weft system, which respectively identify the goods as either a satin or a sateen. Satin weave A satin is a broken twill weaving technique that forms floats on one side of the fabric. Seam A seam, in sewing, is the line where two pieces of fabric are held together by thread. Seam ripper A seam ripper is a small tool used for unpicking stitches. Selvage or Selvedge Serge Serge is a type of twill fabric that has diagonal lines or ridges on both sides, made with a two-up, two-down weave. Serging Serging is a sewing term, the binding off of an edge of cloth. Sewing Sewing is an ancient craft involving the stitching of cloth, leather, animal skins, furs, or other materials, using needle and thread. Shag Shag (fabric) is typically used to make a deep-pile carpets. Shed In weaving, the shed is the gap between yarns on a loom when one or more, but not all, of the harnesses are raised. Sheer Sheer is a semi-transparent and flimsy cloth. Shoddy Recycled or remanufactured wool. Historically generated from loosely woven materials. Shuttle A shuttle in weaving is a device used with a loom that is thrown or passed back and forth between the threads of the warp to weave in the weft. Silk Silk is a natural protein fiber that can be woven into textiles. It is obtained from the cocoon of the silkworm larva, in the process known as sericulture, which kills the larvae. Sisal Sisal or sisal hemp is an agave Agave sisalana that yields a stiff fiber used in making rope. Spandex fiber Spandex or elastane is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity (stretchability). Spinning Spinning is the process of creating yarn (or thread, rope, cable) from various raw fiber materials. Staple Staple is the raw material, or its length and quality, of fiber from which textiles are made. Stitch A stitch is a single turn or loop of the thread or yarn in sewing, knitting, and embroidery. Stuff Stuff is a coarse cloth, sometimes made with a linen warp and worsted weft. Super The Super grading system is used to grade the quality of wool fabric. The higher the number, the more yarn is packed in per square inch, therefore all things being equal a super 120s yarn is better than super 100s.
Tatting Tatting is a technique for handcrafting lace. Terry cloth Terry cloth is a type of cloth with loops sticking out. Most bath towels are examples of Terry cloth. Thimble A thimble is a protective shield worn on the finger or thumb. Thread count The thread count is the number of warp threads per inch plus the number of weft threads. Tissue Tissue is a fine woven fabric or gauze. Tulle Tulle is a netting, which is often starched, made of various fibers, including silk, nylon, and rayon, that is most commonly used for veils, gowns (particularly wedding gowns) and ballet tutus. Tweed Tweed is a type of fabric using the twill weave. Twill tape Twill tape is a flat twill-woven ribbon of cotton, linen, polyester, or wool. Twill weave Twill is a type of fabric woven with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs. It is made by passing the weft threads over one warp thread and then under two or more warp threads.
Embroidery Embroidery is an ancient variety of decorative needlework in which designs and pictures are created by stitching strands of some material on to a layer of another material. Epingl fabric A type of velvet fabric woven on a wire loom or pingl loom. The pingl velvet is specific by the fact that both loop pile and cut pile can be integrated into the same fabric. Even-weave Even-weave or evenweave fabric is used in counted-thread embroidery and is characterized by Warp and weft threads of the same size. Eyelet Grommets and eyelets are metal, plastic, or rubber rings that are inserted into a hole made through another material. They may be used to reinforce the hole, to shield something from the sharp edges of the hole, or both.
Intarsia Intarsia is a knitting technique used to create patterns with multiple colours. Interfacing Interfacing is a common term for a variety of materials used on the unseen or "wrong" side of fabrics in sewing.
Jacquard loom The Jacquard loom was the first machine to use punched cards. It uses punched cards to control the pattern being woven. It is a form of dobby loom, where individual harnesses can be raised and lowered independently. Jute Jute is a long, soft, shiny plant fibre that can be spun into coarse, strong threads.
Oilcloth Oilcloth was, traditionally, heavy cotton or linen cloth with a linseed oil coating: it was semi-waterproof. The most familiar use was for brightly printed kitchen tablecloths. Organdy Organdy or organdie is the sheerest cotton cloth made. Combed yarns contribute to its appearance. Its sheerness and crispness are the result of an acid finish on greige (unbleached) lawn goods. Organza Organza is a thin, plain weave, sheer fabric traditionally made from silk, the continuous filament of silkworms.
Baize Baize is a coarse woollen or cotton cloth, often coloured red or green. Ballistic nylon Ballistic nylon is a thick, tough synthetic fabric used for a variety of applications. Barathea Barathea is an indistinct twill or broken rib - usually a twilled hopsack weave - with a fine textured, slightly pebbled surface. Batik Batik is an Indonesian traditional word and refers to a generic wax-resist dyeing technique used on fabric. Bedford-Cord Combination of two kinds of Weave, Namely Plain and Drill. Bias The bias direction of a piece of woven fabric, usually referred to simply as "the bias", is at 45 degrees to its warp and weft threads. Binding In sewing, binding is used as both a noun and a verb to refer to finishing a seam or hem of a garment, usually by rolling or pressing then stitching on an edging or trim. Blend A Blend is a fabric or yarn made up of more than one type of fiber. Bobbin lace Bobbin lace is a delicate lace that uses wound spools of thread (the bobbins) to weave together the shapes in the lace. Bobbinet Bobbinet is a tulle netting with hexagonal shaped holes, traditionally used as a base for embroidery and lingerie. Bombazine Bombazine is a fabric originally made of silk or silk and wool, and now also made of cotton and wool or of wool alone. It is twilled or corded and used for dress-material. Braid To braid is to interweave or twine three or more separate strands of one or more materials in a diagonally overlapping pattern. Broadcloth Broadcloth -material of superior quality Brocade Brocade is the term for forming patterns in cloth with a supplementary weft. Buckram Buckram is a stiff cloth, made of cotton or linen, which is used to cover, and protect a book. Burlap Burlap is a type of cloth often used for sacks.
Velour Velour is a textile, a knitted counterpart of velvet. It combines the stretchy properties of knits such as spandex with the rich appearance and feel of velvet. Velvet Velvet is a type of tufted fabric in which the cut threads are very evenly distributed, with a short dense pile, giving it its distinct feel. Velveteen Velveteen is a cotton cloth made in imitation of velvet. The term is sometimes applied to a mixture of silk and cotton. Viscose Viscose is an artificial cellulose-based polymer, sometimes used as a synonym for Rayon
Felt Felt is a non-woven cloth that is produced by matting, condensing and pressing fibers. The fibers form the structure of the fabric. Felting The process of making felt is called felting. Fiber Fiber or fibre is a class of materials that are continuous filaments or are in discrete elongated pieces, similar to pieces of thread. Fibers are often used in the manufacture of other materials. Filament A filament is a fine, thinly spun thread, fiber, or wire. Finishing Finishing refers to any process performed on yarn or fabric after weaving to improve the look or performanceof the finished textile. Fishnet Fishnet is a material with an open, diamond shaped knit. Flannel Flannel is a cloth that is commonly used to make clothing and bedsheets. It is usually made from either wool, wool and cotton, or wool and synthetic fabric. Flax Flax fiber is soft, lustrous and flexible. It is stronger than cotton fiber but less elastic. The best grades are used for linen fabrics such as damasks, lace and sheeting. Coarser grades are used for the manufacturing of twine and rope. Frieze Frieze is a coarse woollen cloth with a nap on one side, that was raised by scrubbing it to raise curls of fibre. Fulling Fulling is a step in clothmaking which involves the cleansing of cloth (particularly wool) to get rid of oils, dirt, and other impurities.
Knit To make (a fabric or garment) by intertwining yarn or thread in a series of connected loops either by hand, with knitting needles, or on a machine. Knit fabrics Knit fabrics are fabrics that were produced through the process of knitting. Knitting needle gauge A knitting needle gauge makes is used to determine the size of a knitting needle.
Patchwork Patchwork is a form of needlework or craft that involves sewing together small pieces of fabric and stitching them together into a larger design, which is then usually quilted, or else tied together with pieces of yarn at regular intervals, a practice known as tying. Percale Percale refers to a closely woven, high thread count, cotton fabric often used for sheets and clothing. Persian weave Persian weave is a method of weave used in jewelry and other art forms. Pile Wire A steel rod which is inserted in between the base fabric and the pile ends in a pile fabric woven on a wire loom or pingl loom. Plush Plush is a fabric having a cut nap or pile the same as fustian or velvet. Polyester Polyester is a synthetic fiber Poplin Poplin is a heavy, durable fabric that has a ribbed appearance. It is made with wool, cotton, silk, rayon, or any mixture of these. The ribs run across the fabric from selvage to selvage. They are formed by using coarse filling yarns in a plain weave.
Lace A lace fabric is lightweight openwork fabric, patterned, either by machine or by hand, with open holes in the work. Lam Lam is a type of brocaded clothing fabric with inwoven metal threads, typically of gold or silver, giving it a metallic sheen. Lawn Lawn is a fine linen or cotton cloth. Linen Linen is a material made from the fibers of the flax plant. Loden Loden is water-resistant material for clothing made from sheep wool. Loom The Loom is a machine used for weaving fabric. Lucet Lucet is a method of cordmaking or braiding. Lucet cord is square, strong, and slightly springy.
Warp The warp is the set of lengthwise threads attached to a loom before weaving begins, and through which the weft is woven. Warp knit Knit fabric in which intermeshing loops are positioned in a lengthwise, or warp, direction. Weaving Weaving is an ancient textile art and craft that involves placing two sets of threads or yarn made of fibre called the warp and weft of the loom and turning them into cloth. Weft The weft is the yarn that is woven back and forth through the warp to make cloth. Wire loom Weaving machine for pile fabrics or velvets whereby the pile is made by weaving steel rods or wires into the fabrics. When the wires are extracted the warp ends that have been woven over the wires remain as loops on top of the fabric or will form cut pile if the wire is equipped with a cutting blade. Woof The woof is the same thing as the weft. Wool Wool is the fiber derived from the hair of domesticated animals, usually sheep. Woolen Woolen or woollen is the name of a yarn and cloth usually made from wool. Worsted fabric Worsted is the name of a yarn and cloth usually made from wool. The yarn is well twisted and spun of long staple wool. T Woven fabric A woven fabric is a cloth formed by weaving. It only stretches in the bias directions (between the warp and weft directions), unless the threads are elastic.
Q R
Gabardine Gabardine is a tough, tightly woven fabric often used to make suits, overcoats and trousers. Gauge A gauge is a set number of rows per inch (in knitting) or the thread-count of a woven fabric that helps the knitter determine whether they have the right size knitting needles or a weaver if the cloth is tight enough. Gante Gante is a cloth made from cotton or tow warp and jute weft. It is largely used for bags for sugar and similar material, and has the appearance of a fine hessian cloth. Gauze A very light, sheer, fine woven fabric. Geotextile A geotextile is a synthetic permeable textile. Gingham Gingham is a fabric made from dyed cotton yarn. Glass fiber (fibre) Fiberglass is material made from extremely fine fibers of glass. It is widely used in the manufacture of insulation and textiles.
Qiviut Qiviut is the wool of the musk ox. Quilt Quilting is a method of sewing or tying two layers of cloth with a layer of insulating batting in between.
Merino Merino is the Spanish name for a breed of sheep, and hence applied to a woolen fabric. Mesh A mesh is similar to fabric or a web in that it has many connected or weaved pieces. Metallic fiber (fibre) Metallic fibers are fibers used in textiles which are either composed of metal, or fibers of other materials with a metal coating. Microfibre (fiber) Microfibre is a term for fibres with strands thinner than one denier. Fabrics made with microfibres are exceptionally soft and hold their shape well. Mocado Mockado is a woollen pile fabric made in imitation of silk velvet.[4][5][6] Modal Modal is a cellulose fiber made by spinning reconstituted cellulose from beech trees. Mohair Mohair is a silk-like fabric made from the hair of the Angora goat. It is durable, light and warm, although some people find it uncomfortably itchy.
Damask Damask is a fabric of silk, wool, linen, cotton, or synthetic fibers, with a pattern formed by weaving. Darning mushroom A darning mushroom is a tool which can be used for darning clothes, particularly socks. The sock can be stretched over the top of the (curved) mushroom, and gathered-tightly-around the stalk. Denim Denim denotes a rugged cotton twill textile. Dimity Dimity is a lightweight, sheer cotton fabric having at least two warp threads thrown into relief to form fine cords. Dobby loom Dobby loom is a loom in which each harness can be manipulated individually.
Rayon Rayon is a transparent fibre made of processed cellulose. Cellulose fibres from wood or cotton are dissolved in alkali to make a solution called viscose, which is then extruded through a nozzle, or spinneret, into an acid bath to reconvert the viscose into cellulose. Rolag A rolag is a loose woolen roll of fibers that results from using handcards. Roving A roving is a long rope of fibers where all of the fibers are going parallel to the roving. Rug A rug is a form of carpet. It is usually smaller than a carpet.
Tablet weaving Tablet weaving is a process of weaving where tablets, also called 'cards', are used to create the shed that the weft is passed through. It is generally used to make narrow work such as belts or straps. Tactel Tactel is the brand name of a man-made fibre made from nylon. Taffeta Taffeta is a type of fabric, often used for fancy dresses. Tapestry Tapestry is a form of textile art. It is woven by hand on a weaving-loom. The chain thread is the carrier in which the coloured striking thread is woven. Tarlatan Tarlatan is a starched, open-weave fabric, much like cheese cloth. It is used to wipe the ink off a plate during the intaglio inking process.
Calico Calico is a type of fabric made from unbleached, and often not fully processed, cotton. Also referred to a type of Printing. Cambric Cambric is a lightweight cotton cloth used as fabric for lace and needlework.
Yarn Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving and ropemaking.
Research
goat
sheep
alpaca
vicuna
llama
camel
angora rabbit
musk ox
silk worm
wool
cotton
polyester
raw materials
Textile Plant
Spinning Machine
FORMAL INVESTIGATION
SPINNING TIM DE BEER
Research
Research
By spinning around this vertical axis, a symmertical surface is created. This is produced by an array of a single component repeated until the form is complete.
component
process
spinning
modeling
rotation 1
rotation 2
overlap
density
process
component
spinning
modeling
rotation 1
rotation 2
overlap
density
vertical axis one line of symmetry (whole surfaces) two lines of symmetry (individual surfaces) three surfaces 2 points/6 points
component
component
rotation 1
g
circular rotational axis no component rotation
h
circular rotational axis no component rotation
spinning
rotation 2
symmetry
front elevation
front elevation
side elevation
points
density
form
perspective view
perspective view
perspective view
outcome variables
Step 5
component
process
spinning
modeling
rotation 1
rotation 2
overlap
density
2 dimensional surface
2 dimensional surface
3 dimensional form
Generative_Binary_Data_Extraction
A binary code is a way of representing text or computer processor instructions by the use of the binary number system's two-binary digits 0 and 1. This is accomplished by assigning a bit string to each particular symbol or instruction. For example, a binary string of eight binary digits (bits) can represent any of 256 possible values and can therefore correspond to a variety of different symbols, letters or instructions. Black & White 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1
r es ea rch ->
textiles ->
Graphical _Pattern
Binary_Code
Inherent_Data_Set_01
Inherent_Data_Set_02
weaving
pr ogr am & site ->
concept design ->
technical design ->
p re se nta tio n ->
Generating_Woven_Geometries_Grasshopper_Weaving_Definition
a: input_surface_weft b: input_surface_warp c: input_pattern d: inherent_data_set e: F(x)=(x+x)-1 conversion_into_<-/+> values f: <-/+> values
Generating_Woven_Geometries_Grasshopper_Weaving_Definition
c e
Digital_Weave_Principles
warp is the set of lengthwise yarns that are held in tension on a frame or loom. weft is drawn through the warp to create woven geometry
Pattern_Repitition_Factor
<Repeat_X_U> <Repeat_Y_V
digital_weave_principles <weft> <warp> <X / [U]> <Y / [V]>
<0 / 1>
<-/+>
<weft_X / [U]>
<warp_Y / [V]>
<digital_weft&warp>
increasing <X_U> divisions by increments of 5 relation to how refined the weave becomes
0 <- / +>
Fig.1
Repeat_X_U 1 Repeat_Y_V 1
Fig.2
Repeat_X_U 5 Repeat_X_V 1
Fig.3
Repeat_X_U 10 Repear_Y_V 1
1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0
0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1
1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0
0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1
1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0
0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1
1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0
01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01
1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0
0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1
1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0
01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01
0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1
1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0
0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1
1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0
0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1
1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0
0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1
1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0
0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1
1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0
0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1
1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0 1 01 01 0
0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0
1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1
0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0
1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1
0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0
0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1
0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0
0 00 11 1 0 00 11 1 0 00 11 1 0 00 11 1 0 00 11 1 0 00 11 1 0 00 11 1 0 00 11 1 0 00 11 1 0 00 11 1 0 00 11 1 0 00 11 1 0 00 11 1 0 00 11 1
0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0
0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1
0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0
0 01 11 0 0 00 11 1 0 01 11 0 0 00 11 1 0 01 11 0 0 00 11 1 0 01 11 0 0 00 11 1 0 01 11 0 0 00 11 1 0 01 11 0 0 00 11 1 0 01 11 0 0 01 11 0
Fig.4
Weft_Binary
Warp_Binary
Weft_&_Warp_Binary_Overlay
Digital_Weave_ Weft_Amplitude_Field_<+/->
Digital_Weave_ Warp_Amplitude_Field_<+/->
Digital_Weave_Weft_&_Warp_Amplitude_Field_<+/->
Repeat_X_U 1 Repeat_Y_V 1
Fig.5
Repeat_X_U 1 Repeat_X_V 5
Fig.6
Repeat_X_U 1 Repear_Y_V 10
Patterns/Binary_Samples_Catalogue
<Repeat_X_U> <Repeat_Y_V
_001.bmp
_002.bmp
_003.bmp
_004.bmp
_005.bmp
_036.bmp
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_071.bmp
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_106.bmp
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_110.bmp
_006.bmp
_007.bmp
_008.bmp
_009.bmp
_010.bmp
_041.bmp
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_043.bmp
_044.bmp
_045.bmp
_076.bmp
_077.bmp
_078.bmp
_079.bmp
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_111.bmp
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_011.bmp
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_014.bmp
_0015.bmp
_046.bmp
_047.bmp
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_050.bmp
_081.bmp
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_084.bmp
_085.bmp
_116.bmp
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_120.bmp
_016.bmp
_017.bmp
_018.bmp
_019.bmp
_020.bmp
_051.bmp
_052.bmp
_053.bmp
_054.bmp
_055.bmp
_086.bmp
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_090.bmp
_121.bmp
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_123.bmp
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_125.bmp
_021.bmp
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_023.bmp
_024.bmp
_025.bmp
_056.bmp
_057.bmp
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_060.bmp
_091.bmp
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_094.bmp
_095.bmp
_126.bmp
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_026.bmp
_027.bmp
_028.bmp
_029.bmp
_030.bmp
_061.bmp
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_064.bmp
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_096.bmp
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_099.bmp
_100.bmp
_131.bmp
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_134.bmp
_135.bmp
_031.bmp
_032.bmp
_033.bmp
_034.bmp
_035.bmp
_066.bmp
_067.bmp
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_101.bmp
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_136.bmp
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Generating_Woven_Geometries
Generating_Woven_Geometries
Selected_patterns
Selected_patterns
_009.bmp
_010.bmp
_063.bmp
_068.bmp
_091.bmp
_102.bmp
_129.bmp
_137.bmp
_145.bmp
_146.bmp
_Left _View
_Left _View
_Right_View
_Right_View
_Top_View
_Top_View
Generated_Woven_ Geometries
Generated_Woven_ Geometries
Surface_Types
Operations
M X Y Z = = = = Mirror Plane X direction Y direction Z direction mirror_001 mirror_002 mirror_003 mirror_004 mirror_005
planar
pinched
bifurcated
rippled
M M
M M
Operations
lift
stretch
twist
pull
tesselate_[X]
tesselate_[Y]
tesselate_[Z]
corners of surface is raised to a higher position or level while the centre of the surface remains fixed
surface ends turned while 45 & 90 degrees while the rest of the surface remains stationary
drawing the centre of the surface downward while the edges remain fixed
Operations_Planar_Surface
lift stretch twist pull
Operations_Pinched_Surface
lift stretch twist pull
Operations_Rippled_Surface
lift stretch twist pull
Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
lift stretch twist pull
Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
M M X M
Loom_Model_002 Loom_Model_001 Warp - steel Weft - elastic bands Loom - timber Varied warp spacing Gradual increase in weft spacing Warp - timber dowel Weft - elastic bands Loom - timber Alternating warp placement on additional plane Consistent weft spacing
Warp relationship to weft; weft distance adjusts relative to warp spacing. Alternating warp placement onto an additional plane; relationship to vertical space created in the weave. The further apart the warp is placed on the other plane a deeper space is created relative to the weft & warp
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Our role is not to create the latest technical fibre. Nature has already done that, and without an oil rig in sight. Merino wool was born not in a lab, but in the mountains of New Zealand. The Icebreaker fibre factory works 24 hours a day, on the back of a sheep. Sustainability is at the heart of Icebreaker, and we aim for profitable sustainability a business model that balances ecology with economy. Its possible because nature is an astonishing designer. Everything it creates is simple, efficient and beautiful. We believe nature is a powerful force that is within us and around us. We have harnessed this force to become the passionate world leader in merino.
When were designing a new garment, the key question for us is always: how does this perform? Its all about functionality better temperature regulation, mobility, sweat management, and fit. Great design can be as simple as making sure seams dont sit on top of each other when several garments are layered together. The aim is to create styles so light and unrestrictive that people feel as free as if theyre wearing nothing at all, says Rob Achten, Vice-President of Product and Creative Director. The design ethos is under-stated and elegant, and always has an element of surprise interior stitching, or a print on a pocket. Icebreakers roots are in nature, and our designers constantly use New Zealands wild landscape as a source of inspiration.
Today, the Icebreaker apparel system has grown to include underwear, mid layer garments, outerwear, socks and accessories for men, women and kids. You can buy Icebreaker in more than 3000 stores in 43 countries.
OUR FIBRE FACTORY SPANS ONE AND A HALF MILLION A CRES ACROSS THE SOUTHERN ALPS OF NEW ZEALAND
ICE BREAKER NZ
http://nz.icebreaker.com/
Merino farm
There is no such thing as a typical New Zealand merino farm, although most merinos are found in the South Island in conditions that would challenge other types of stock. Merino properties range from 120 to 40,000 hectares; from flat land to steep mountains and may have as few as 2,000 animals to as many as 20,000. Generally the bigger properties are those near to the Southern Alps where rainfall is higher. These farms are more likely to run a higher ratio of other stock such as cattle and deer, and will have greater numbers of merino wethers (castrated males) which are hardier than breeding ewes. The further east you go, the drier, smaller and more intensive properties become. They will run fewer, if any, wethers, and are more likely to have invested in irrigation which enables them to provide high quality green feed all year around. These properties may mate some of their ewes to meat-breed rams thus diversifying their income between fine wool and meat.
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http://www.merinoinc.co.nz/
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