This document provides an overview of preparatory processes for wool and silk fibers. It discusses the impurities present in raw wool like lanolin, suint and dirt. The main methods of wool scouring are described as aqueous alkaline scouring, solvent scouring, thermal scouring and freeze scouring. Carbonization and bleaching processes are also summarized. For silk preparation, the document outlines degumming methods to remove the silk gum from the fibroin fibers, as well as bleaching techniques. Pretreatment methods for synthetic and blended fabrics focus on removing finishes, lubricants and dirt prior to further processing.
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This document provides an overview of preparatory processes for wool and silk fibers. It discusses the impurities present in raw wool like lanolin, suint and dirt. The main methods of wool scouring are described as aqueous alkaline scouring, solvent scouring, thermal scouring and freeze scouring. Carbonization and bleaching processes are also summarized. For silk preparation, the document outlines degumming methods to remove the silk gum from the fibroin fibers, as well as bleaching techniques. Pretreatment methods for synthetic and blended fabrics focus on removing finishes, lubricants and dirt prior to further processing.
This document provides an overview of preparatory processes for wool and silk fibers. It discusses the impurities present in raw wool like lanolin, suint and dirt. The main methods of wool scouring are described as aqueous alkaline scouring, solvent scouring, thermal scouring and freeze scouring. Carbonization and bleaching processes are also summarized. For silk preparation, the document outlines degumming methods to remove the silk gum from the fibroin fibers, as well as bleaching techniques. Pretreatment methods for synthetic and blended fabrics focus on removing finishes, lubricants and dirt prior to further processing.
Copyright:
Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
Available Formats
Download as PPT, PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
This document provides an overview of preparatory processes for wool and silk fibers. It discusses the impurities present in raw wool like lanolin, suint and dirt. The main methods of wool scouring are described as aqueous alkaline scouring, solvent scouring, thermal scouring and freeze scouring. Carbonization and bleaching processes are also summarized. For silk preparation, the document outlines degumming methods to remove the silk gum from the fibroin fibers, as well as bleaching techniques. Pretreatment methods for synthetic and blended fabrics focus on removing finishes, lubricants and dirt prior to further processing.
Copyright:
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A LECTURE NOTE ON
PREPARATORY PROCESSES FOR WOOL AND SILK
Adane Haile Institute of Technology for Textile, Garment and Fashion Design
Bahirdar University 2004
PREPARATION OF WOOL
IMPURITIES IN RAW WOOL Raw wool is dirty & consists of impurities
Keratin Dirt
33% 26%
Suint Wax/lipids
12% 28%
Impurities
Mineral Matter
1%
Others: - Added lubricants and pigments
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Dirt: Consists of dried grass, seed, dried oil and so on held by
means of adhesion forces of suint and wool fat.
Suint: This impurity comes from the secretions by sweat glands.
Typically contains potassium salts of fatty acids and amino acids. Wax or wool grease: Mainly lanolin [Complex mixture of hydrocarbons] Mineral matter: Oxides of certain metals (potassium & iron) LARGE AMOUNT OF IMPURITIES ALKALINE & HEAT SENSITIVITY
METHODS OF WOOL SCOURING
AQUEOUS ALKALINE SCOURING SOLVENT SCOURING THERMAL SCOURING FREEZE SCOURING Scouring must be carried out so as to cause as little harm to the wool fiber as possible, both from chemical and
mechanical (felting) point of view.
AQUEOUS ALKALINE SCOURING
Alkaline scouring of wool is carried out in alkaline soap solution.
Sodium carbonate is used as alkali in wool scouring.
Wetting agents & other scouring bath additives
Emulsification and solubilization
AQUEOUS SCOURING PROCESS IN STAGES
Trough No. Soap (%)
Na2CO3 (%)
Time (min)
Temp (0C)
1 2 3 4
0.8 0.4 0.35 Water
0.2 -
2 .5-3 2-3 2 1-2
40-50 40-50 40-50 40-50
Wool scouring can be carried out on: Fiber, yarn or Fabric
SOLVENT SCOURING
High pressure jets of solvent remove the wax, dirt and suint Solvents such as benzene and CCl4 (carbon tetrachloride) Suitable solvent recovery plant is necessary
THERMAL SCOURING
Involves thermal liquefaction of wax by irradiation.
Mixing with grease absorbing material and Rinsing
FREEZE SCOURING Exposing wool to low temperature environment [-30oC] Freezing of wax and dirt matter Mechanical breakage of frozen matter Rinsing
CARBONIZATION OF WOOL The scouring process for wool is primarily engaged in removal of wax and water soluble impurities. Vegetable matters in wool are removed by CARBONIZATION
Carbonizing is done to remove the cellulosic impurities
from wool by treatment with acid or acid producing salts. Primarily sulfuric acid is used. The ultimate effect is hydrolysis of cellulose present in vegetable matters of wool fiber.
CONVENTIONAL CARBONIZING PROCESS
SCOURING ACIDIZING DRYING AND BAKING BURR CRUSHING AND DEDUSTING NEUTRALIZING
Natural color of silk differs upon type of silkworm
DEGUMMING Silk gum together with other impurities inhibit penetration of chemicals used in subsequent silk processing. Scouring of silk practically means removal of the silk gum
and other impurities such as waxy and mineral matter.
DEGUMMING
Cleavage of peptide bonds in sericin by
hydrolysis OR impurity solubilization.
CONVENTIONAL DEGUMMING METHODS
Extraction with water Boil off in soap Degumming with acids Degumming with alkalis
Acid degumming is due to hydrolysis of sericin.
Alkali degumming involves solubilization of sericin by
associated with the silk fibroin cause discoloration in silk in addition to the naturally occurring silk
pigment. Silk can be bleached by oxidative as well as reductive methods. If a very high degree of whiteness is required, a
combination of both methods in the form of double bleach is applied.
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Selection of bleaching agent must consider minimal damage to the silk fibroin. Peroxide bleaching as oxidative method and reductive bleaching using sodium hydrosulphite are conventionally used. The level of whiteness can be controlled by concentration of bleach, length of treatment time, pH and temperature of treatment bath. 23
PRETREATMENT OF SYNTHETICS AND BLENDS
Synthetic fibers generally do not contain naturally
occurring impurities like natural fibers. SPIN FINISHES PROCESSING LUBRICANTS DIRT & SIGHTING COLORS WATER SOLUBLE SIZE The objective of scouring synthetic fiber fabrics is to
remove the dirt, spin finishes and processing lubricants.
Bleaching for removal of sighting colors.
Scouring for PC blends is mainly designed to remove the natural oils and waxes from the cotton portion and the finish oils which manufacturer add to polyester fibers when extruded. Bleaching of PC blends are normally required to remove the natural colors of cotton, sighting colors and if the polyester
portion is turned yellow at the time of heat-setting operation.
Alkaline hydrogen peroxide bleaching is the most preferred system for polyester/cotton blends and bleaching. COMBINED SCOURING/BLEACHING FOR ECONOMICAL PURPOSE
