Dyeing and Finishing Polyester/Cellulose blends

Wirote Sarakarnkosol

PES/CEL
Relative ease of processing Versatility of application, leading to a wide range of dyed and finished effects Polyester/cellulosic yarns are used in sewing threads and slub effects for apparel. Woven staple 67:33 polyester/cotton (T/C) and 50:50 polyester/viscose (CVS) blends in numerous constructions form the wellestablished

Pretreatment of PES/CEL blends

Desizing
Enzyme with hot rinse

Scouring
Avoid alkali hydrolysis with NaOH; Na2CO3 should be used.

Singeing
Avoid molten bead of PES (for exhaustion process, it has higher depth) Gas singeing is prefer than Plate singeing

Mercerizing
Concentrate NaOH can not damage PES at room temperature

Heat setting
Temperature should not exceed until CEL part is yellowing

Bleaching
H2O2 and NaClO2 is the suitable bleaching agent

Different dyeing property between PES and CEL

Mildly acidic pH required. Not essential to use electrolyte. High temperature required. Both suitable in exhaustion and continuous process

Polyester

Different dyeing property between PES and CEL

pH 0 4 7 10

14

Cellulose
REDOX ABSENT REDOX PRESENT
Near neutral Neutral - Alkali Temp 80-100oC

Temp 30-130oC

Alkali Strong alkali

Temp 90-100oC Temp 20 - 60oC

ELECTROLYTE FOR ALL

Confliction of simultaneous dyeing on PES/CEL blends

POLYESTER POLYESTER POLYESTER POLYESTER Reduction Clearing Acidic High Surfactant

pH

Temp

Ionic strength

AfterTreatment

Alkali

Normal

Electrolyte

Soaping &Fixing COTTON

COTTON

COTTON

COTTON

Factor of severity of the thermomigration effect :

Constitution and applied depth of the dyes used Heat treatment history of the polyester fibres Degree of penetration of the polyester after thermofixation Degree of staining of the cellulosic fibres Temperature and duration of the heat treatment that causes the thermomigration Presence of other contaminants on the surface of the fibre components

How to solve !
Careful dye selection to avoid dyes prone to thermomigration Adequate thermofixation conditions to ensure optimum penetration of the polyester fibres Thorough post-clearing to minimise residual staining of the cellulosic fibres Lowering the curing temperature in subsequent resin finishing Minimal application of softeners and antistatic agents at the finishing stage

PES/CEL : Dyes selection for exhaust dyeing

PES/CEL blend dyeing Polyester reserve 1. Direct dyes 2. Reactive dyes One-bath/One-stage Solid shade One-bath/Two-stage

Disperse dyes and disazo multisulphonated direct dyes at pH 6 Disperse dyes and reactant-fixable dyes with copper-specific sequesterant Disperse dyes and nicotinotriazine reactive dyes at 130C

Disperse dyes at 130C, then low-reactivity dyes at 8095C Disperse dyes at 130C, then selected vat dyes at 2060C High-reactivity dyes (VS or FP) at low temperature, then disperse dyes at 130C

1. Disperse dyes / Direct dyes

130C 30-60 min 8095C
For Black 22 10-20 Must adjust pH To 10-11 with soda ash

min

Fixing Disperse dye and auxiliaries Adjust pH with Phosphate buffer to 5 - 6 Disulphonate dyes Salt

Selection of direct dyes

Normally Disazo multisulphonate dyes
Y
Y 86 O 39 R 244

G
G 26

Bk 22 Bk 112 R 83

Bl 200 Bl 71 B 199

Direct dyes : Commercial name

Sirius Solophenyl Solar Kayarus (Dystar) (Ciba) (Clariant) (KYK)

2. Disperse / Reactant-fixable direct dyes

130C 30-60 min 8095C 10-20 min

Fixing Disperse dye and auxiliaries Adjust pH with Phosphate buffer to 5 - 6 Disulphonate dyes Copper-specific sequesterant (Plexophor SFI) Salt

Typical reactant-fixable direct dye

Commercial name : Indosol (Clariant)

Fixing for Reactant-fixable direct dyes

The bifunctional type (60oC x 10-20 min): Indosol E-50
gave fastness to washing at 50oC through the formation of an extensive dyeagent complex within the fibre.

The trifunctional type (40oC x 15 min and then alkali 30 40 min): Indosol EF
Forms covalent bonds with cellulose Confers a higher degree of fastness to washing at 60oC even with deep shades

The tetrafunctional reactant resins (Pad Dry Cure 175 180oC) : Indosol CR
Confer the highest fastness, even to washing at the boil. Applied with an N-methylol reactant such as DMDHEU and an acidliberating catalyst e.g. magnesium chloride to give a commercial product sold as a cationic reactant resin. Not only excellent wet fastness but also improved crease resistance and good dimensional stability.

3. Disperse dyes /Nicotinotriazine reactive dyes

130C 45-60 min

Rinse Soaping

Disperse dye and auxiliaries Adjust pH with Phosphate buffer to 6 - 7 Nicotinotriazine reactive dyes Salt

Nicotinotriazine reactive dyes

Commercial name : Kayacelon React (KYK)

Nicotinotriazine reactive dyes

CI Reactive Red 120 Red 221

Substituent X Cl Procion Red H-E3B (Dystar) Kayacelon React Red CN-3B (KYK)

4. Disperse dyes /Low-reactivity reactive dyes

130C 30-60 min 8095C Alkali 30-45 min

Rinse Soaping Disperse dye and auxiliaries Adjust pH with acetic acid to 4-5.5 Reactive dyes Salt

Low-reactivity reactive dyes

Monofunctional
Aminochlorotriazine Trichloropyrimidine Procion H (Dystar) Drimarene X (Clariant)

Bifunctional
Bis(aminochlorotriazine) Procion H-E (Dystar)

Procion H-EXL (Dystar) Procion XL+ (Dystar)

Advantage of alkali clearable disperse dye

Reactive dyes Dyeing At 130oC PES CEL PES CEL

Alkali clearable disperse dyes Alkali add

Soaping PES CEL PES CEL

Highest washing fastness of blends

5. Disperse / Vat dyes

130C 30-60 min Oxidise 2060C Reducing agent 20-40 min Caustic soda 2040C 10 min Rinse

Disperse dye and auxiliaries Adjust pH with acetic acid to 4-5.5 Vat dyes

Vat dyes : Commercial name

Indanthrene Cibanone Nihonthrene (Dystar) (Ciba) (Sumitomo)

Model of Disperse/Vat dyeing on One bath/two stage

Vat dyes Dyeing At 130oC PES CEL PES CEL

Normal disperse dyes Alkali and Reducing agent add

Oxidising and Soaping PES CEL PES CEL

Highest washing fastness of blends

6. High-reactivity reactive dyes/ disperse dyes

130C 30-60 min

40-60C Adjust pH to 4.0-5.5 Alkali 30-60 min Disperse dyes Reactive dyes Salt Rinse Soaping

High-reactivity reactive dyes which resist acid hydrolysis

Vinyl sulphone (VS)
Remazol Sumifix Levafix EA Drimarene K Novacron C Levafix CA Drimarene CL (Dystar) (Sumitomo) (Dystar) (Clariant) (Huntmann) (Dystar) (Clariant)

Fluorochloropyrimidine (FCP) Bifunctional of VS and Fluorotriazine

PES/CEL : Dyes selection for continuous dyeing

PES/CEL blend dyeing Polyester reserve Reactive dyes with sodium bicarbonate and urea Disperse/Vat Solid shade Disperse/Reactive Paddrythermofix - Selected disperse dyes and highreactivity dyes with sodium bicarbonate and urea - Selected disperse dyes and Phosphonic acid derivative reactive dye Paddrythermofixpadsteam Selected disperse dyes and highreactivity dyes

Paddrythermofixpadsteam High-energy disperse dyes and selected vat dyes Paddrythermofix-jig develop High-energy disperse dyes and selected vat dyes

Paddrythermofix (1) : Disperse/Reactive dyes

Rinse Soaping 180 220oC with variation of time

Disperse dyes High reactivity reactive dye Migration inhibitor Reduction inhibitor Hygroscopic agent (Urea?) Wetting agent Sodium bicarbonate or sodium formate

Disadvantage of urea
> 135oC

Alternatives to urea in thermosol dyeing and thermofixation

Suitable reactive dyes

Fluorochloropyrimidine (Levafix EA, Drimarene K) Dichloroquinoxaline (Levafix E) Monofluorotriazine (Novacron F)

Interaction between disperse dyes and MCT dyes

Paddrythermofix (2) : Disperse/Acid fixable reactive dye

Rinse Soaping 180 220oC with variation of time

Disperse dyes Phosphonic acid derivative reactive dye Dicyandiamide Migration inhibitor Reduction inhibitor Hygroscopic agent Wetting agent

Reaction mechanism of phosphonic acid derivative with cellulose

Phosphonic acid derivative reactive dye

Paddrythermofixpadsteam : Disperse/Reactive dyes

Thermofix Steam Rinse Soaping 180 220oC with variation of time 100 120oC with variation of time

Disperse dyes Reactive dye Migration inhibitor Reduction inhibitor Wetting agent

Caustic soda Common salt

Paddrythermofixpadsteam : Disperse/Vat dyes

Thermofix Steam Oxidise Soaping 180 220oC with variation of time 100 120oC with variation of time

Disperse dyes Vat dye Migration inhibitor Wetting agent

Caustic soda Hydros Common salt

Paddrythermofix-jig develop : Disperse/Vat dyes

180 220oC with variation of time Caustic soda Hydros Common salt Disperse dyes Vat dye Migration inhibitor Wetting agent

Oxidise Soaping

Dyeing and Finishing Polyester/Elastane blends

Wirote Sarakarnkosol

Problem of PES/EL blend dyeing

Disperse dye which are dyeing on polyester have the tendency to stain on Elastane Disperse dyes which stained the elastane component of blend has poor fastness Thermomigration of disperse dyes from polyester to elastane occurs which result in colour change

Elastane morphology: Hard and soft segment

Hard segment

Soft segment

Hard segment

Soft segment

Hard segment

Hard segment: For recovery, dimension stability and elastic of elastane Soft segment : For flexibility, stretching and elongation of elastane

PES/EL blends and locking of disperse dyes.

Tg of PES and hard segment of EL Above Tg : dye can migrate Under Tg : dye can be locked

Room temp Tg of soft segment of EL

Useful condition Above Tg : dye can migrate Under Tg : dye can be locked Tg = Glass transition temperature

Heat setting on PES/EL blends

Temperature should higher than Tg of hard block for re-crystallization of elastane. Should not exceed for prevent the yellowing and degradation of elastane Optimum condition for heat setting is 180 190oC for 20-35 seconds.

Scouring of PES/EL blends.

Elastane have a high lubricant level (2-5%) due to the inherent tackiness of the fibers. Main component of lubricant is SILICONE and hydrocarbon types. Aqueous surfactant scouring are extracted only 50% of the oil. Solvent scouring give excellent removal of the fiber lubricants, but it also extract the additive e.g. UV absorber or pollution protecting agent

Dyeing of PES/EL blends

Optimum dyeing temperature should about 125 130oC due to the highest absorption and migration to PES part. Shorter fixation time for disperse dye for minimum damage to EL (fixation time 1530 min) Alkali clearable disperse dyes should use for dyeing on PES/EL blends for highest wet-fastness.

Disperse dyes adsorption on PES and EL in same bath

70 80 90 100 110 120 130 130oC 30 min

100% PES 100% EL

Reduction clearing of PES/EL blends

Alkali dithionite and thiourea dioxide is the most suitable for reduction clearing on PES/EL blends with low temperature (6070oC). Acid reduction clearing is not suitable on PES/EL due to higher temperature (80-90oC) can induce the migration of disperse dyes from EL to rinse bath.

Conclusion :
Polyester/Cellulose blends can be dyed with disperse dyes and other dyes for another blends with suitable dye class and dyeing condition for balancing the essential parameter to highest fastness and reproducibility Polyester/Elastane blends provide the lower fastness than those of original polyester, thus disperse dyes which use for dyeing blends must be selected for highest fastness and reproducibility