7 2
fa padella
2.part
RECEPTS ENGIADINAIS —‘THE FRYING PAN
BE 70
COLLECTED BY
CILGTA NOGLER-PEDRUN
The PLACEBO PRESS
‘BEAUFORT, S. C.
1983@)
FORENORD.
(Cookbook p. 2)
‘In the last years a great nunber of cookbooks have been written, One might
‘an inundation of cookbooks. Most of these books come out in grandiose
, ang the dishes bear pompous, exotic names,
fore, we were pleasantly surprised that our modest Skillet (1st Part)
‘an extremely good reception. The five editions are proof of that. ‘This
“encouraged us to continue with the collection of Engadinese* recipes and
The Skillet (La Padella), Part Two.
all those who helped Mrs. Nogler-Pedrun collect the recipes we give our
thanks, and thanks even more to those ladies who "gave them up". Family
had been’ stored away just like treasures. ‘The dishes were, at any rate,
Jess the sane in every family, at least within a given village, | Certain
‘were common up and down the valley and even beyond. ‘The family "tricks"
| — were secrets!
So then, taboos -- at least to some extent -- have been abolished among us, too!
« by Ciglia Nogler-Pedrun
2 by Eva Gaidon and Annanaria Gaudenz
2 by Jacques Gaidon
by Hans Steiner
"NOTE: "Engadinese" refers to the Latin people of the Engadine
Valley (SE Switzerland, Canton of Graubuenden) and to
their culture.
(Cooke. 3)
QD VEGETABLES
1. Milk Soup
2. Milk Soup, Zernez Style
3. Rice with Savoy Cabbage
4. piér (Dry Engadinese Cheese Soup)
5. Good King Henry Greens
Engadinese Braised Beef
Great-Grandnother's Rabbit Stew ¢
Mutton, Ftan Style 7
i(3)
INDEX (Concluded)
MEAT DISHES,
11. vnk Meatballs
12. Engadinese "Leftover Wedding"
13. Potatoes with Bacon
POTATO DISHES
14. Souffle, Ramosch Style
15. Potato Kbechli
16. Potato Dumplings
17. Cornmeal "Maluns"
‘TYPES OF DUMPLINGS
18. Rolled Dumplings
19. Grandmother Mary's Dumplings
20. Dumplings, Tschlin Style
24. Stuffed Eggs, Street Urchin Style
25. Noodles with Beestings
26. Cake with Beestings
27. Rice and Milk Prepared with Bygs and Butter
28. (Corn Dumplings)
‘SAEED DISHES
29. Chalendamarz Caramels
30. Zernez Flatcakes
31. “Bernardins da Baltisar"
4 32. "One, ‘wo, Three"
33. Rosenklhechli
34. “Horseshoes”
35. Madame Domenica's Sbouts
36. Cherries in Toasted Flour
37. Engadinese Pancakes
38. Rice Cakes
39. Cream Cakes
40. Potato Cakes
41. “Ustrida”
42. Aquarius
43. Spanish Bread
44. Little Cakes(4)
‘A FEW DETAILS OF CULTURAL HISTORY
(Cookbook p. 4)
the hired hands, haymakers and laborers who worked for daily wages,
‘2 day were served in the Upper Engadine.
che Lower Engadine vas famous for its sides of bacon — vp to. 100 years
Be the proper tine, a nother vould tell her daughter which sie of
ae ee er? the honor of coming to the table on the occasion of its own
feast.
in general, they used to eat Little meat, but many dishes with flour
wezy greasy and heavy.
Right after the big famines of 1771-1773, they
and corn for milling.
began to cultivate more
barleycorns or hemp seeds (a
tn their pockets they kept "ustridas"
hemp seed, crushed barley and
‘ustrida was made with honey, butter,
In the Lover Engadine, y adopted (at least in the 16th
) the vice of drinking i Tt seems that they drank
ab carly as breakfast and that they would make tidbits with the
for adults and children.
1 they:
for the holiday of course, but also
eee "85 thay took up theix plates full of food, and of the big
fe was said that they were "hauling in their harvest".
sn the 1920s, the native style of cocking no longer seened to be in
qed stead. Eventually “haute cuisine” was cultivated, which was determined
hack away at the barbarism of native cocking.
Nowadays we.can point to.a return to simple cocking. OF course,
deces of grease have had to adapt to the stomachs of the present day. ‘They
gzen't made out of cast iron anymore!
yore: the index of photos which appears on p. 48 of the original cookbook
is translated directly below:
Illustrations
Pastry mould
Bread cutting board
15 Bronze pot
17 Small cupboard
23 Spice case
28 Pretzel iron
38 40“ Mortar
46 Gourd ,
48 Rosenkliechli iron*
"* see recipe #33. —— D. J. AySCHOPPA DA LAT
(LX SOUP)
potatoes, unpeeled and cubed
‘cp (7 deciliters) water
salt
(30 grams) rice
oil
flour :
(1 liter) milk
potatoes, water, salt and rice together 10 mins, Brown oil and flour
in skillet, then add with milk to other ingredients. Cook for
mins. Add salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.
SCHOPPA DA LAT A LA MODA DALS MAGLIACHOGNAS
(CLK SOUP, ZERNEZ STYLE)
(Bs Liters) milk
‘ext (1 liter) water
bouillon cube
‘end pepper
‘c=. (200 grams) pasta:
of chives
“cornets" and vermicelli
RIS E VERSAS
(RICE WITH SAVOY CABBAGE)
‘ences (50 grams) bacon, cubed
ead (Savoy) cabbage
cances (300 grams) rice \
2/3 - 3 1/3 cups (7-8 deciliters) beef stock
bacon about 14 mins. Cut cabbage into thin strips. Steam bacon,
and cabbage for about 15 mins. ‘Then add rice and beef stock;
until rice is done. Flavor with butter and cheese.x
mR
(GS |LADNESE CHEESE SOUP)
(300 grams) old cheese or
Zceces (100 grams) Parmesan and
J cmces (200 grams) Gruyére cheese
= 1 1/4 cw (2-3 deciliters) bouillon liquid
‘= (2 ceciliter) white wine
Geese coarsely. Cut bread into small bits and arrange on a baking
Pour wine and bouillon on bread, then top with cheese. Cook in the
‘= 350°-400° for 20-25 mins. ‘Then, ten minutes before serving, mix
(one beaten egg and one minced onion, and pour on the pl&r. Don't
to serve with a good green salad.
wacrs
"(00D KING HENRY GREENS)
"S NOTE: "Good King Henry" is a wild Buropean plant,
BONUS-HENRICUS, sometimes called "Mercury" or "Markery")
Awonderful meal, though somewhat forgotten today. You can find this
plant in the richer fallow fields, in meadows and along the Alps.
‘gemnds (1 kilograms) Good King Henry greens (without stems and flowers,
washed, then boiled in salt water for 5 mins.)
Ts oil
Bs, diced
(100 grams) bacon, cubed
‘bacon and onion in oil for 10 mins. Then add greens, whole or diced.
20. mins.
refine the recipe, add a little bouillon, 1/4 cup milk, a little wild
and a bit of butter. Also, about 2 ounces of grated cheese goes
well mixed in with the greens.
©) STUFO A L'ENGIADINAISA
(ENGADINESE BRAISED BEEF) ~
2 romds (1 kilogram) beef or mitton roast
Berinade:
‘Ti/4 cup (3 deciliters) red wine
3/4 cup (2 deciliters) vinegar, put in a bowl with the wine
Tcarrot, chopped
Z leek, chopped
2cnion, chopped
2 cloves garlic
B little salt7
Marinate the roast 3-5 days, turning once a day,
‘Then pat the roast
st dry, roll in flour, and brown in hot oil, Put roast in
a pot, adding:
1 2/3 cup of the marinade
4 cup water
A pinch of sugar
A little salt and pepper
3 cloves
Place in the oven, turn often, basting the roast, Cook for 1;-2 hours,
(7) FRATEMF DA CUNIGL DA LA TATA
(GREAT-GRANDMOTHER'S RABBIT STEW)
9 ounces (250 grams) bacon, diced
1 onion, coarsely chopped
3; rabbit, cut into pieces
1 TBS flour
3/4 cup (2 deciliters) bouillon liquid
3/4 cup (2 deciliters) white wine
A pinch of salt , Some pepper
Thyme, marjoram and nutmeg to taste
A sprig of parsley
1 cabbage-lettuce
1 carrot
Start frying the bacon, then ada onion,
the meat begins to change ddlor.
4dd rabbit pieces and fry until
Light brown.
Sprinkle flour on the meat and fry until
Place in a pot with all other ingredients and cook for 5 - 3/4 hr.
(8) CHARN DA BESCH
(MUTTON, FTAN STYLE)
1 pound (600 grams) potatoes
1 pound (600 grams) mutton
3 carrots
2-3 onions
2-3 cloves garlic
Salt and pepper
2 bay leaves
Yarjoram
Fry the bits of mutton with the onion, garlic, salt, pepper, bay leaf and
Berjoram, Then in a greased mould (or pan) put:
A layer of sliced potatoes
‘% layer of meat
2% layer of carrot slices (and celery, if desired)
with layers of potatoes, followed by layers of meat and carrots,
‘the last potato layer spread the minced onion and dots of butter,
some beef stock on top to moisten ingredients.
in the oven 24 hours, covered with a lid. Add more stock if necessary.(8)
(9) ‘TSCHANFLECHS
(TRIPE)
1 pound (600 grams) tripe, stripped
A little grease
1 ‘onion
A little salt
A dash of cumin
Heat oi1 in a pan, fry onions and add seasoning, Md tripe and fry to
taste. Simer about 1%; hours with the following ingredients:
A little flour PR ri
A glass of white GAlso, Hy — | Mf cups (2-3 dect ters) bef br th
cumin \ — ’”
When finished, serve with plenty of grated cheese.
VARIATION: Add fresh vegetables, minced, or julienne strips of
dried (dehydrated) vegetables.
(10) cuaton Da es-cH
(LEG OF MUTTON)
1 leg of mutton, rubbed with dry mstard and browned in hot oil,
ook in a roast pan in the oven at 475°, From tie to time, baste with hot
oil. Cook 1-2 hours, depending on the weight and age of the sheep. The
@ish is cooked when a metal knitting needle stuck in to the bone comes out
hot. While the mitton is in the oven, prepare the following:
2 cups (5 deciliters) hot water
‘Soup bones
1 onion garnished with 3 cloves and a bay leaf
2 cloves garlic
2 small carrots
Iet all these ingredients come to a slow boil and reduce to about 1 1/4 cup
(3 deciliters), Strain through a sieve and add a little Madeira wine to
RS)
S
(11) CULLAS DA VNA
(JNA MEATBALLS)
10 raw potatoes, peeled, finely grated and well-drained
8 ounces (200 grams) bacon, chopped
2 smoked sausages cat inte small cubes
Salt
Fnough flour to hold the mixture together,
‘Mix all ingredients, Make balls with twosoupspoons (dipped repeatedly in hot
water to avoid sticking). Drop the balls in boiling water. They are cooked
when they rise to the top. Fry in a little oil until light brown,(9) .
(12) LA NO2ZA DALS VANZETS A L'ENGIADINAISA
(ENGADINESE "LEFTOVER WEDDING")
“Tatsch" Paste:
4 beaten eggs
1 pinch salt
3/4 cup (2 deciliters) water and milk mixture
10 eunees (300 grams) Flour ¢
Mix all of the above into a coarse paste,
4 raw potatoes, cut into small slices
Leftover meat, chopped diced, or minced
1 TSP baking powder
Mix potatoes, meat, and baking powder thoroughly into the “tatsch" paste,
Garnish with strips of bacon. Put in the oven for around 3/4 hour at
350°. To test for "doneness", stick in.a metal knitting needle; if the paste
does not stick to the needle, the dish is cooked,
VARIATION: Instead of meat leftovers, use 3 smoked sausages. Cook 20 mins,
Peel and cut into small bits. Add to paste as for meat.
(13) ARDOFFELS CUN LARD
(POTATOES WITH BACON)
1 pound (500 grams) raw potatoes, cut into 1/4" slices
About 2 quarts (2 liters) water .
Salt
1
Add salt to water, cook potatoes over low flame for 10 mins,
Gover the bottom of a cooking mould (or pan) with bits of bacon, Arrange
Potatoes in layers, covering with grated cheese. “
Mix one EGG, one pinch of SALT and a little NUIMEG well with a whisk and
Pour on top of the other ingredients. Garnish with bits of bacon. Put ina
medium-hot oven and cook for about % hour.
(14) weLTsEg! AL MOD DA RoMOSCH
(SOUFFLE, RAMOSCH STYLE) ~
3 pounds (14; kilograms) raw potatoes
4-5 TBS flour
1 TSP salt
8 ounces (200 grams) bacon
Salami or any available sausage
Plenty of cooking grease
Grate potatoes coarsely and mix with salt, diced meat and flour. Grease a
Gish (preferably a dish with a V"-2" rim). Pour the mixture in and flatten
‘out by hand. Dot with grease or clarified butter (formerly the soufflé was
‘cooked on’a griddle in the oven). Cook for 40 mins, at medium-high heat in
‘the hearth-oven,
(TRANSLATOR'S NOTE: Experiment at medium to medium-high heat in a rodemoven).
‘The surface should be golden brown and crusty.
Serve the soufflé on a baking dish. Maybe you should drain off a little of
the grease, because today's stomachs ... !
8 cooked potatoes, still in their peels: mashed
1-3 TBS flour
A pinch of salt
A little
7 ounces (120 grams) fresh, rich cheese, sliced
1 onion, sliced in rings
Mix mashed potatoes, flour and salt. Roll out the paste and cut out circles
with a cup or glass. Place slices of cheese and onion rings on top, ook
in a 475° oven for 10-15 mins.
(26) Guocs D'aRDorrELs
(POTATO. . DUMPLINGS)
2 pounds (1 kilogram) potatoes (cooked in peels and xun through the blender
while still hot) 7
10412 ounces (300-400 grams) flour
1 TSP salt (blended into mashed potatoes)
A little nutmeg
Roll mixture out into finger-sized rolls and cut into 3/4"=1 1/4" (2-3
centimeter) pieces, Roll the dumplings with a fork to give then their
pattern and shape. ,
Cook the dumplings (in small portions) in the following Liquid for 10 mins.
2 quarts (2 liters) water ~
Salt
1 TBS oil
Flavor with butter and grated cheese, Serve with a portion of tomato sauce,
22 ounces (350 grams) cormeal
21/4 ap (3 deciliters) water
1 pinch salt
6 cumces (150 grams) cooked and finely grated potatoes
Tet all of the abowe incredients sock tocether for 2 hours.(18) BIZOCHELS STRUSCHOS
(ROLLED DUMPLINGS)
9 ounces (250 grams) flour
3, - 3/4 cup (1-2 deciliters) water
1 TSP salt
1 TBS oil
Mix thoroughly into a paste (paste should not be too wet). After the paste
has sat for 4 hour, out cimplirgs a little thinner than 2 pencil and
about 2 1/4 - 3 inches (6-8 centimeters) long,