Cosmetics

11 pages, 2130 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Characteristic Evaluation of Various Formulations of Anti-Aging Cream from Carotenoid Extract of Bacterial Symbiont Virgibacillus salarius Strain 19.PP.Sc1.6

by Lia Kusmita, NFN Mutmainah, Agus Sabdono, Agus Trianto, Ocky Karna Radjasa and Ratih Pangestuti

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 120; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040120 - 17 Dec 2021

Cited by 6 | Viewed by 4844

Abstract

Premature aging can be triggered by free radicals from UV rays, since exposure to these rays can cause the skin to experience oxidative stress. Oxidative stress induces intracellular DNA damage, protein denaturation, and lipid peroxidation that lead to cell death. However, cell death [...] Read more.

Premature aging can be triggered by free radicals from UV rays, since exposure to these rays can cause the skin to experience oxidative stress. Oxidative stress induces intracellular DNA damage, protein denaturation, and lipid peroxidation that lead to cell death. However, cell death can be prevented with antioxidants such as carotenoids, which are among the potential natural compounds for its treatment. Sources of carotenoids include microbial symbionts associated with Sinularia sp., one of which is the bacterium Virgibacillus salarius strain 19.PP.Sc1.6, a carotenoid-producing bacteria. This study aims to explore the utilization of carotenoids from the bacterium V. salarius strain 19.PP.Sc1.6 for the preparation of anti-aging creams. Furthermore, the method employed three formulations (vs, ow, and wo) containing different types of cream tested for stability, and antioxidant and sunscreen abilities. The results obtained established that the carotenoid extract from V. salarius strain 19.PP.Sc1.6 was more stable in the cream vs. the oil-in-water type cream with an anionic emulsifier. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Green Ingredients in Cosmetics and Food (Volume II))

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(a) Bacterial culture and (b) carotenoid extract of V. salarius strain 19 PPSc1.6. Full article ">Figure 2
vs (a), ow (b), and wo (c) cream. Full article ">Figure 3
Evaluation of cream stability (a) pH; (b) spreadability; (c) viscosity; (d) stickiness. Full article ">Figure 3 Cont.
Evaluation of cream stability (a) pH; (b) spreadability; (c) viscosity; (d) stickiness. Full article ">Figure 3 Cont.
Evaluation of cream stability (a) pH; (b) spreadability; (c) viscosity; (d) stickiness. Full article ">Figure 4
Antioxidant activity of the cream before and after (a) storage and % decrease activity (b). Full article ">Figure 5
Sunscreen activity of the cream before and after storage (a) and % decrease activity (b). Full article ">

7 pages, 5711 KiB

Open AccessCommunication

The Protective Effect of Hamamelis virginiana Stem and Leaf Extract on Fine Dust-Induced Damage on Human Keratinocytes

by Jiyoung Choi, Dongki Yang, Mi Yeon Moon, Gi Yeon Han, Moon Sik Chang and Joonseok Cha

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 119; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040119 - 16 Dec 2021

Cited by 5 | Viewed by 5591

Abstract

Witch hazel extracts have been used for decades as cosmetic ingredients in skin care products. Our present study aims to evaluate its potential in anti-pollution products using a previously reported in vitro model. Calcium is a universal second messenger, and we used human [...] Read more.

Witch hazel extracts have been used for decades as cosmetic ingredients in skin care products. Our present study aims to evaluate its potential in anti-pollution products using a previously reported in vitro model. Calcium is a universal second messenger, and we used human respiratory and skin cells to detect changes in intracellular Ca²⁺ concentrations upon particulate matter contact. Both an increase in pro-inflammatory markers and a decrease in tight junction proteins were confirmed, as previously reported. Witch hazel stem and leaf extract showed significant attenuation of Ca²⁺ response upon the challenge; it displayed systematic regulations of the signal generator, PAR-2; a pro-inflammatory marker, NF-κB; and a tight junction protein, Occludin. We identified hexagalloylglucose from the extract and concluded that it is a major component regulating protection from particulate matter. Based on these results, witch hazel extract containing hexagalloylglucose is an active ingredient in anti-pollution skin care products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Green Ingredients in Cosmetics and Food (Volume II))

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[Ca2+]i of HBT-SM (A) and HaCaT (B) cells were monitored. Both cells showed previously reported Ca2+ influx by DPM addition at the indicated time (arrows, 25 μg/mL in the media), which HVE (2% in the media) successfully inhibited (red curves). Ns indicate the number of cells that we analyzed for the quantification. After normalization, the difference between DPM only and DPM+HVE was analyzed using a Student’s t-test. *** p < 0.001. Full article ">Figure 2
HVE supported HaCaT cells to recover from the DPM-induced damage state. The levels of PAR-2 (A) and NF-κB (B) were increased by DPM treatment (25 μg/mL in the media), but HVE could reduce them to or below the normal level. On the contrary, the level of Occludin (C) was decreased by DPM, but returned to the normal level by HVE. Densitometry data were normalized by β-actin and the significance was analyzed using a paired Student’s t-test. * p < 0.05; ** p < 0.01. Full article ">Figure 3
HGG is an active compound that can manifest the protective effect of HVE on the cells. (A) The structure of HGG resolved by NMR. (B) HGG (100 μg/mL in the media) showed almost identical effect with HVE (2% in the media) on the [Ca2+]i of HBT-SM cells upon DPM treatment at the indicated time (arrows). (C) HGG could also decrease the [Ca2+]i of HaCaT cells, suggesting the protection from the DPM damage. After normalization, the significance of difference to the control (DPM only) was analyzed using a Student’s t-test. *** p < 0.001. Full article ">

16 pages, 35331 KiB

Open AccessArticle

New Functions of Low-Molecular-Weight Hyaluronic Acid on Epidermis Filaggrin Production and Degradation

by Moe Hashimoto and Kazuhisa Maeda

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 118; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040118 - 16 Dec 2021

Cited by 9 | Viewed by 6689

Abstract

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a high-molecular-weight polysaccharide with high moisturizing power. It is composed of repeating disaccharides of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucuronic acid. Low-molecular-weight hyaluronan (LMHA) is obtained by changing the molecular weight or modifying the functional groups of HA and is commonly used [...] Read more.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a high-molecular-weight polysaccharide with high moisturizing power. It is composed of repeating disaccharides of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucuronic acid. Low-molecular-weight hyaluronan (LMHA) is obtained by changing the molecular weight or modifying the functional groups of HA and is commonly used together with HA in cosmetics. The objective of this study was to determine whether LMHA promotes the synthesis of filaggrin (FLG). We also investigated whether LMHA activates FLG-degrading enzymes. Three-dimensional (3D) models of the human epidermis were cultured with LMHA. Real-time PCR was used to quantify the mRNA levels of profilaggrin (proFLG), involucrin (IVL), and FLG-degrading enzymes. FLG protein levels were measured by fluorescent antibody staining and Western blotting. The mRNA was quantified using a 3D epidermis model, and it was observed that the mRNA levels of proFLG, IVL, caspase-14 (CASP14), and bleomycin hydrolase were increased by the application of LMHA. Immunofluorescence results showed an increase in FLG proteins, and results from experiments using 3D epidermis models showed that LMHA increased the activity of CASP14. This suggests that the topical application of LMHA would result in an increase in natural moisturizing factor and promote moisturization of the stratum corneum. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue The Application of Biopolymers in Cosmetics)

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10 pages, 1752 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Simultaneous Distillation–Extraction of Essential Oils from Rosmarinus officinalis L.

by Bárbara Silva Ribeiro, Maria de Fátima Ferreira, José Luís Moreira and Lúcia Santos

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 117; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040117 - 16 Dec 2021

Cited by 8 | Viewed by 4144

Abstract

The present study describes a procedure to isolate essential oils from Rosmarinus officinalis L. using simultaneous distillation–extraction (SDE). Rosmarinus officinalis L. can be used for medicinal purposes, as well in the cooking and cosmetics industries. SDE technique extraction combines a steam distillation combined [...] Read more.

The present study describes a procedure to isolate essential oils from Rosmarinus officinalis L. using simultaneous distillation–extraction (SDE). Rosmarinus officinalis L. can be used for medicinal purposes, as well in the cooking and cosmetics industries. SDE technique extraction combines a steam distillation combined with a continuous extraction using a solvent or a co-solvent mixture, providing faster extractions with low extraction solvent volumes. The effect of the solvent nature and the extraction time on the simultaneous distillation–extraction efficiency was evaluated. The best performance was achieved using pentane as a solvent for 1 h of extraction. The essential oils obtained by simultaneous distillation–extraction extracts were analyzed by gas chromatography with flame ionization detection (GC-FID). Extraction efficiencies ranged from 40 to 70% for the majority of the compounds tested, and the precision (measured by the relative standard deviation) varied between 6 and 35%. Among the compounds analyzed the most abundant in the Rosmarinus officinalis L. sample were 1,8-cineole, (-) –borneol, α-pinene, (S)-(-)- α–terpineol, (-)-bornyl acetate, linalool, and 2,2,6-trimethylcyclohexanone. The SDE method proved to be a suitable option for obtaining extracts free from cuticular waxes or chlorophylls. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Green Ingredients in Cosmetics and Food (Volume II))

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11 pages, 1445 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Cosmeceutical Potentials of Grammatophyllum speciosum Extracts: Anti-Inflammations and Anti-Collagenase Activities with Phytochemical Profile Analysis Using an Untargeted Metabolomics Approach

by Yodying Yingchutrakul, Wattanapong Sittisaree, Thanisorn Mahatnirunkul, Thitikorn Chomtong, Tatpong Tulyananda and Sucheewin Krobthong

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 116; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040116 - 9 Dec 2021

Cited by 15 | Viewed by 4328

Abstract

Grammatophyllum speciosum is the largest orchid species and a well-known traditional medicinal plant. Due to skin aging, natural products that inhibit this process can attract the attention of consumers and scientists because radical-scavenging activity, collagenase inhibition, and inflammatory suppression are valuable in dermatological [...] Read more.

Grammatophyllum speciosum is the largest orchid species and a well-known traditional medicinal plant. Due to skin aging, natural products that inhibit this process can attract the attention of consumers and scientists because radical-scavenging activity, collagenase inhibition, and inflammatory suppression are valuable in dermatological applications. This study investigated the phytochemicals in G. speciosum leaves extracts that have cosmeceutical potentials, including radical-scavenging, anticollagenase, and anti-inflammatory abilities. G. speciosum leaves were extracted using water-based extraction methods. High-resolution mass spectrometry was used to identify the phytochemicals in the extracts. Fibroblast and keratinocyte cell cytotoxicity was determined. Antioxidant abilities were measured using DPPH and ABTS assays. The effect of the extracts on nitric oxide (NO) in macrophage cells was investigated. ELISA of the collagenase enzyme was determined. A total of 721 annotated metabolites were identified in the extracts. Vitexin and orientin were the most abundant metabolites. Cell viability was >80% in both cell lines when the extract concentration was <1 mg/mL. The IC₅₀ values for DPPH and ABTS were 56 and 117 μg/mL, respectively. Furthermore, the extracts revealed that NO and collagenase activity were suppressed by 42% and 23%, respectively. The extracts can suppress ROS, inflammatory, and collagenase activities without causing fibroblast and keratinocyte cell death. Thus, this study provides information on metabolites in G. speciosum leaves, which is promising as cosmeceuticals or pharmaceuticals with anti-inflammatory and anti-collagenase activities. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Ingredients with Bioactive Properties, and Its Potential Application in Cosmetics)

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16 pages, 3430 KiB

Open AccessArticle

A Promising Cutaneous Leishmaniasis Treatment with a Nanoemulsion-Based Cream with a Generic Pentavalent Antimony (Ulamina) as the Active Ingredient

by Johnny Bullón, Laura Márquez, José Alejandro Fernández, César Scorzza, José Vicente Scorza, Jimmy Rodríguez, Atilio Cordero, Francia Véjar, Sonia Koteich-Khatib and Ana Forgiarini

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 115; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040115 - 3 Dec 2021

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 4287

Abstract

Leishmania parasites are the etiological agents of Leishmaniasis, a tropical disease that affects around 15 million people in about 90 countries. The chosen therapy for this disease is based on antimony V compounds, such as meglumine antimoniate. It can be administered as a [...] Read more.

Leishmania parasites are the etiological agents of Leishmaniasis, a tropical disease that affects around 15 million people in about 90 countries. The chosen therapy for this disease is based on antimony V compounds, such as meglumine antimoniate. It can be administered as a parenteral, subcutaneous or perilesional form as successive infiltrations with pre-established doses localized in the border of the granuloma that characterizes the wound of Cutaneous Leishmaniasis (CL). Herein, a topical pharmaceutical recipe, such as an emulsion, is proposed to eliminate the trauma caused by administering the medicine in parenteral form to the face or other difficult access zones. The evaluation of this vehicle was performed by analyzing parameters such as pH, viscosity, homogeneity and droplet size distribution. Furthermore, the effectiveness of the emulsion was proved by in vitro experiments using Strat-M synthetic membranes, showing that the transdermal passage of the antimonial complex is guaranteed. Moreover, complete healing of the wound has been attained in patients with CL, as shown with two clinical cases in this article. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2021)

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28 pages, 1087 KiB

Open AccessReview

Essential Oils and Their Individual Components in Cosmetic Products

by Eduardo Guzmán and Alejandro Lucia

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 114; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040114 - 3 Dec 2021

Cited by 82 | Viewed by 26577

Abstract

The current consumer demands together with the international regulations have pushed the cosmetic industry to seek new active ingredients from natural renewable sources for manufacturing more eco-sustainability and safe products, with botanical extract being an almost unlimited source of these new actives. Essential [...] Read more.

The current consumer demands together with the international regulations have pushed the cosmetic industry to seek new active ingredients from natural renewable sources for manufacturing more eco-sustainability and safe products, with botanical extract being an almost unlimited source of these new actives. Essential oils (EOs) emerge as very common natural ingredients in cosmetics and toiletries as a result of both their odorous character for the design and manufacturing of fragrances and perfumes, and the many beneficial properties of their individual components (EOCs), e.g., anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, and, nowadays, the cosmetic industry includes EOs or different mixtures of their individual components (EOCs), either as active ingredients or as preservatives, in various product ranges (e.g., moisturizers, lotions and cleanser in skin care cosmetics; conditioners, masks or antidandruff products in hair care products; lipsticks, or fragrances in perfumery). However, the unique chemical profile of each individual essential oil is associated with different benefits, and hence it is difficult to generalize their potential applications in cosmetics and toiletries, which often require the effort of formulators in seeking suitable mixtures of EOs or EOCs for obtaining specific benefits in the final products. This work presents an updated review of the available literature related to the most recent advances in the application of EOs and EOCs in the manufacturing of cosmetic products. Furthermore, some specific aspects related to the safety of EOs and EOCs in cosmetics will be discussed. It is expected that the information contained in this comprehensive review can be exploited by formulators in the design and optimization of cosmetic formulations containing botanical extracts. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2021)

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12 pages, 275 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Analysis of Fluoride Concentration in Toothpastes in the United Arab Emirates: Closing the Gap between Local Regulation and Practice

by Ammar Abdulrahman Jairoun, Sabaa Saleh Al-Hemyari, Moyad Shahwan, Obaida Jairoun and Sa’ed H. Zyoud

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 113; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040113 - 30 Nov 2021

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 5130

Abstract

Background: While there is much scientific evidence supporting the benefits of fluoride for oral health, the concentration of fluoride in over-the-counter fluoride toothpaste should meet United Arab Emirates (UAE) regulations of a fluoride concentration not exceeding 0.15%. Objectives: The current study examines the [...] Read more.

Background: While there is much scientific evidence supporting the benefits of fluoride for oral health, the concentration of fluoride in over-the-counter fluoride toothpaste should meet United Arab Emirates (UAE) regulations of a fluoride concentration not exceeding 0.15%. Objectives: The current study examines the fluoridated toothpaste products available on the UAE market and aims to quantify their total fluoride content. Methods: A total of 50 toothpaste products were collected and analyzed in this study. Ion Chromatography (IC) conductivity analysis was performed to determine the total fluoride content. Results: Among the 50 products tested, 10 exceeded the recommended concentration of total fluoride of less than 0.15%, while 12 had a total fluoride concentration that was less than was declared on their labels. Moreover, this study has revealed that 22 of the sampled products had a total fluoride concentration below 1000 ppm fluoride. An increased risk of higher total fluoride content was observed in the toothpaste products with monofluorophosphate active ingredients than in products with potassium nitrate/sodium fluoride and sodium fluoride (p = 0.011). Conclusions: There is a need to reassess the effectiveness of current regulations in the UAE to ensure that all fluoridated toothpastes available on the market are safe and effective for the consumer. Specifically, appropriate guidelines should be established on the basis of the risks and benefits inherent in fluoride exposure. Moreover, fluoridated toothpastes need to be subject to stricter monitoring and control regarding their safety and quality through good manufacturing practices (GMPs), education, research, and adverse event reporting. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advances in Regulatory and Technological Aspects of Cosmetics)

16 pages, 3819 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Alaskan Bog Blueberry (Vaccinium uliginosum) Extract as an Innovative Topical Approach to Prevent UV-Induced Skin Damage

by Erika Pambianchi, Zachary Hagenberg, Alessandra Pecorelli, Mary Grace, Jean-Philippe Therrien, Mary Ann Lila and Giuseppe Valacchi

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 112; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040112 - 27 Nov 2021

Cited by 9 | Viewed by 4373

Abstract

Our body is continuously exposed to various exogenous aggressors, and, in particular, the skin represents the main target for outdoor stressors, including ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UV exposure is well-known to be associated with the development/worsening of extrinsic photoaging and a multitude of skin [...] Read more.

Our body is continuously exposed to various exogenous aggressors, and, in particular, the skin represents the main target for outdoor stressors, including ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UV exposure is well-known to be associated with the development/worsening of extrinsic photoaging and a multitude of skin conditions. Considering the role of photoprotection in skin health, the research of natural photoprotective molecules becomes of great importance. Therefore, in this work we wanted to evaluate the beneficial protective effects of ripe berries of Vaccinium uliginosum (Alaska bog blueberry (BB)) extract (100 μg/mL) for preventing the cutaneous oxidative, inflammatory, and structural damage induced by exposure to 200 mJ of UVA/UVB radiation. We observed that the topical application of BB extract on human ex vivo skin explants averted the UV-induced cutaneous OxInflammatory phenomenon by quenching the increase in the oxidative and inflammatory marker levels, such as 4-hydroxynonenal (4HNE), heme-oxygenase-1 (HO-1), cyclooxygenase-2 (COX2), and aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR); as well as by counteracting the loss of structural proteins (filaggrin and involucrin) induced by UV radiation. Our data propose the use of a topical application of Alaska bog blueberry extract as a natural and valuable approach to ensure photoprotection against UV-induced skin damage and premature aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2021)

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HPLC profile of Alaskan bog blueberry with identification of individual peaks. Dp= delphinidin, Cn = cyanidin, Pt = petunidin, Pn = peonidin, Mv = malvidin, ac = acetoyl, gal = galactose, glc = glucose, arb = arabinose. Full article ">Figure 2
Tissue structure and morphology upon BB pre-treatment and UV exposure. H&E staining of ex vivo human skin explants, untreated or pre-treated with Alaskan blueberry extract (BB) and then exposed to UV light (200 mJ of UVA/UVB). Scale bar 100 μm. Full article ">Figure 3
Skin exposure to UV induces peroxidative damage (4HNE, HO-1), however, pre-treatment with BB extract prevents this oxidative damage. Ex vivo human skin biopsies were untreated or pre-treated with BB and then exposed to 200 mJ of UVA/UVB, following 4HNE, and HO-1 protein levels were evaluated. (a) Green fluorescence staining represents 4HNE-protein adduct levels at the original magnification 40×. (b) Semi-quantification of 4HNE green fluorescence intensities performed with ImageJ are depicted in the histogram panel. (c) HO-1 protein levels measured via Western blot assay at 24 h (T24) upon UV exposure. (d) Relative quantification of HO-1 protein levels measured by ImageJ. Data are expressed as arbitrary units (average of three independent experiments), * p < 0.05 Air vs. UV; $ p < 0.05 UV vs. UV BB by ANOVA. Scale bar 100 μm. Full article ">Figure 3 Cont.
Skin exposure to UV induces peroxidative damage (4HNE, HO-1), however, pre-treatment with BB extract prevents this oxidative damage. Ex vivo human skin biopsies were untreated or pre-treated with BB and then exposed to 200 mJ of UVA/UVB, following 4HNE, and HO-1 protein levels were evaluated. (a) Green fluorescence staining represents 4HNE-protein adduct levels at the original magnification 40×. (b) Semi-quantification of 4HNE green fluorescence intensities performed with ImageJ are depicted in the histogram panel. (c) HO-1 protein levels measured via Western blot assay at 24 h (T24) upon UV exposure. (d) Relative quantification of HO-1 protein levels measured by ImageJ. Data are expressed as arbitrary units (average of three independent experiments), * p < 0.05 Air vs. UV; $ p < 0.05 UV vs. UV BB by ANOVA. Scale bar 100 μm. Full article ">Figure 4
Skin exposure to UV induces inflammatory damage, but pre-treatment with BB extract prevents the induction of pro-inflammatory markers. Ex vivo human skin biopsies were untreated or pre-treated with BB and then exposed to 200 mJ of UVA/UVB, then, AhR and COX2 protein levels were evaluated via immunofluorescence. (a) Green fluorescence staining represents AhR protein levels at the original magnification 40×. (b) Semi-quantification of AhR green fluorescence intensities produced with ImageJ are depicted in the histogram panel. (c) Green fluorescence staining represents COX2 protein levels at the original magnification 40×. (d) Semi-quantification of COX2 green fluorescence intensities produced with ImageJ are depicted in the histogram panel. Data are expressed as arbitrary units (average of three independent experiments), * p < 0.05 Air vs. UV; $ p < 0.05 UV vs. UV BB by ANOVA. Scale bar 100 μm. Full article ">Figure 4 Cont.
Skin exposure to UV induces inflammatory damage, but pre-treatment with BB extract prevents the induction of pro-inflammatory markers. Ex vivo human skin biopsies were untreated or pre-treated with BB and then exposed to 200 mJ of UVA/UVB, then, AhR and COX2 protein levels were evaluated via immunofluorescence. (a) Green fluorescence staining represents AhR protein levels at the original magnification 40×. (b) Semi-quantification of AhR green fluorescence intensities produced with ImageJ are depicted in the histogram panel. (c) Green fluorescence staining represents COX2 protein levels at the original magnification 40×. (d) Semi-quantification of COX2 green fluorescence intensities produced with ImageJ are depicted in the histogram panel. Data are expressed as arbitrary units (average of three independent experiments), * p < 0.05 Air vs. UV; $ p < 0.05 UV vs. UV BB by ANOVA. Scale bar 100 μm. Full article ">Figure 5
Skin exposure to UV impairs skin barrier functions (filaggrin, involucrin), which were normalized by the pre-treatment with BB extract. Ex vivo human skin biopsies were untreated or pre-treated with BB and then exposed to 200 mJ of UVA/UVB, then, filaggrin and involucrin protein levels were evaluated. (a) Filaggrin protein levels measured via Western blot assay at 24 h (T24) upon UV exposure. (b) Relative quantification of filaggrin protein levels measured by ImageJ. (c) Involucrin protein levels measured via Western blot assay at 24 h (T24) upon UV exposure. (d) Relative quantification of involucrin protein levels measured by ImageJ. Data are expressed as arbitrary units (average of three independent experiments), * p < 0.05 Air vs. UV; $ p < 0.05 UV vs. UV BB by ANOVA. Full article ">Figure 5 Cont.
Skin exposure to UV impairs skin barrier functions (filaggrin, involucrin), which were normalized by the pre-treatment with BB extract. Ex vivo human skin biopsies were untreated or pre-treated with BB and then exposed to 200 mJ of UVA/UVB, then, filaggrin and involucrin protein levels were evaluated. (a) Filaggrin protein levels measured via Western blot assay at 24 h (T24) upon UV exposure. (b) Relative quantification of filaggrin protein levels measured by ImageJ. (c) Involucrin protein levels measured via Western blot assay at 24 h (T24) upon UV exposure. (d) Relative quantification of involucrin protein levels measured by ImageJ. Data are expressed as arbitrary units (average of three independent experiments), * p < 0.05 Air vs. UV; $ p < 0.05 UV vs. UV BB by ANOVA. Full article ">

19 pages, 842 KiB

Open AccessReview

Apiaceae as an Important Source of Antioxidants and Their Applications

by Punniamoorthy Thiviya, Ashoka Gamage, Dinushika Piumali, Othmane Merah and Terrence Madhujith

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 111; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040111 - 22 Nov 2021

Cited by 48 | Viewed by 8774

Abstract

The excess level of reactive oxygen species (ROS) disturbs the oxidative balance leading to oxidative stress, which, in turn, causes diabetes mellites, cancer, and cardiovascular diseases. These effects of ROS and oxidative stress can be balanced by dietary antioxidants. In recent years, there [...] Read more.

The excess level of reactive oxygen species (ROS) disturbs the oxidative balance leading to oxidative stress, which, in turn, causes diabetes mellites, cancer, and cardiovascular diseases. These effects of ROS and oxidative stress can be balanced by dietary antioxidants. In recent years, there has been an increasing trend in the use of herbal products for personal and beauty care. The Apiaceae (previously Umbelliferae) family is a good source of antioxidants, predominantly phenolic compounds, therefore, widely used in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, cosmeceutical, flavor, and perfumery industries. These natural antioxidants include polyphenolic acids, flavonoids, carotenoids, tocopherols, and ascorbic acids, and exhibit a wide range of biological effects, including anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, anti-atherosclerosis, and anticancer. This review discusses the Apiaceae family plants as an important source of antioxidants their therapeutic value and the use in cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds)

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11 pages, 980 KiB

Open AccessArticle

N-Succinyl-S-Farnesyl-L-Cysteine (SFC): A Novel Isoprenylcysteine Analog with In Vitro Anti-Inflammatory Activity and Clinical Skin Protecting Properties

by José R. Fernández, Karl Rouzard, Corey Fitzgerald, Jason Healy, Masanori Tamura, Michael Voronkov, Jeffry B. Stock, Maxwell Stock and Eduardo Pérez

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 110; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040110 - 20 Nov 2021

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 3708

Abstract

Over the past 15 years, small molecule isoprenylcysteine (IPC) analogs have been identified as a potential new class of topical anti-inflammatories. Clinical studies have demonstrated that IPCs are both safe and effective in promoting healthy skin when applied topically. This work aims to [...] Read more.

Over the past 15 years, small molecule isoprenylcysteine (IPC) analogs have been identified as a potential new class of topical anti-inflammatories. Clinical studies have demonstrated that IPCs are both safe and effective in promoting healthy skin when applied topically. This work aims to demonstrate N-Succinyl-S-farnesyl-L-cysteine (SFC) as a novel IPC molecule that provides a broad spectrum of benefits for skin. Human promyelocytic cell line HL-60, human dermal microvascular endothelial cells (HDMECs), human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs), and normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) were exposed in culture to various inducers to trigger reactive oxygen species, cytokines, or collagenase production. A 49-subject randomized double-blind, vehicle-controlled, split face trial was performed with 1% SFC gel, or 5% niacinamide and vehicle applied for 12 weeks to evaluate anti-wrinkle and anti-aging endpoints. We demonstrated that SFC inhibited GPCR and TLR-induced pro-inflammatory cytokine release in NHEKs and HDMECs from several inflammatory inducers such as UVB, chemicals, cathelicidin, and bacteria. SFC successfully reduced GPCR-induced oxidation in differentiated neutrophils. Moreover, photoaging studies showed that SFC reduced UVA-induced collagenase (pro-MMP-1) production in HDFs. Clinical assessment of 1% SFC gel demonstrated improvement above the vehicle for wrinkle reduction, hydration, texture, and overall appearance of skin. N-Succinyl-S-farnesyl-L-cysteine (SFC) is a novel anti-inflammatory small molecule and is the first farnesyl-cysteine IPC shown to clinically improve appearance and signs of aging, while also having the potential to ameliorate inflammatory skin disorders. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue The Application of Biopolymers in Cosmetics)

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SFC blocks superoxide formation in HL-60 cells and pro-inflammatory cytokines in HDMECs in a dose-dependent manner. (A) HL-60 cells were differentiated with 1.3% DMSO for five days resulting in differentiated neutrophils (dHL-60). Cells were pre-incubated with SFC for 10 min, then burst initiated with addition of fMLP (200 nM) to induce oxidative burst response (rapid release of ROS). Media supernatants were collected after 24 h, and absorbance measured at 550 nm and 556.5 nm. IC50 value (25 µM) was determined by data fitting using the Hill, three-parameter equation. (B) Primary human dermal microvascular endothelial cells (HDMECs) were co-treated with cathelicidin (LL-37, 10 μg/mL) and compounds for 24 h. Media supernatants were collected after 24 h and analyzed by ELISA for Interleukin-6 (IL-6). Data represents mean ± StDev from three independent experiments. * p < 0.05; ** p ≤ 0.01 relative to inducer + vehicle treated cells. Full article ">Figure 2
Primary normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) were co-treated with (A) 12-O-Tetradecanoylphorbol 13-acetate (TPA, 5 ng/mL); (B) peptidoglycan (PGN, 10 μg/mL) and SFC for 24 h. Media supernatants were collected after 24 h and analyzed by ELISA for tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) or Interleukin-8 (IL-8). Data represents mean ± StDev from three independent experiments. * p < 0.05; ** p ≤ 0.01 relative to inducer + vehicle treated cells. Full article ">Figure 3
Clinical study utilizing 1% SFC gel shows improvement in hydration level over vehicle-treated skin. The data represent mean ± SEM. ** p ≤ 0.01 indicates a statistically significant difference compared to baseline (week 0) reading. Full article ">Figure 4
Proposed mechanism of action of SFC to reduce skin inflammation and slow aging. N-Succinyl-S-Farnesyl-L-cysteine (SFC); ultraviolet light A (UVA); ultraviolet light B (UVB); peptidoglycan (PGN); toll-like receptor 2 (TLR2); nuclear factor kappa-light-chain-enhancer of activated B cells (NF-κB); Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEKs); Cathelicidin (LL-37); g-protein coupled receptor (GPCR); formyl peptide receptor-like 1 (FPRL-1); Human dermal microvascular endothelial cells (HDMECs); Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS); Activator Protein 1 (AP1); matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs); extracellular matrix (ECM). Full article ">

29 pages, 1782 KiB

Open AccessReview

Valorization of Wine-Making By-Products’ Extracts in Cosmetics

by Israa Hoss, Hiba N. Rajha, Rindala El Khoury, Sahar Youssef, Maria Letizia Manca, Maria Manconi, Nicolas Louka and Richard G. Maroun

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 109; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040109 - 18 Nov 2021

Cited by 26 | Viewed by 8321

Abstract

The increased demand for conscious, sustainable and beneficial products by the consumers has pushed researchers from both industries and universities worldwide to search for smart strategies capable of reducing the environmental footprint, especially the ones connected with industrial wastes. Among various by-products, generally [...] Read more.

The increased demand for conscious, sustainable and beneficial products by the consumers has pushed researchers from both industries and universities worldwide to search for smart strategies capable of reducing the environmental footprint, especially the ones connected with industrial wastes. Among various by-products, generally considered as waste, those obtained by winemaking industries have attracted the attention of a wide variety of companies, other than the vineries. In particular, grape pomaces are considered of interest due to their high content in bioactive molecules, especially phenolic compounds. The latter can be recovered from grape pomace and used as active ingredients in easily marketable cosmetic products. Indeed, phenolic compounds are well known for their remarkable beneficial properties at the skin level, such as antioxidant, antiaging, anti-hyperpigmentation and photoprotective effects. The exploitation of the bioactives contained in grape pomaces to obtain high value cosmetics may support the growing of innovative start-ups and expand the value chain of grapes. This review aims to describe the strategies for recovery of polyphenols from grape pomace, to highlight the beneficial potential of these extracts, both in vitro and in vivo, and their potential utilization as active ingredients in cosmetic products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Green Ingredients in Cosmetics and Food (Volume II))

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13 pages, 2682 KiB

Open AccessArticle

HPLC Method for Separation of Cannabidiol Hemp Seed Oil with Skin Lipids and Tandem HRMS Technology for Characterization of a Chemical Marker

by Yuxin Liu, Yu Wang, Zhigang Hao and Long Pan

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 108; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040108 - 17 Nov 2021

Cited by 5 | Viewed by 4641

Abstract

Cannabidiol (CBD) hemp seed oil is a commercial raw material with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits that has been formulated into body wash and skin care products. The biggest analytical challenge is how to simultaneously quantify CBD and hemp seed oil as they deposited [...] Read more.

Cannabidiol (CBD) hemp seed oil is a commercial raw material with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits that has been formulated into body wash and skin care products. The biggest analytical challenge is how to simultaneously quantify CBD and hemp seed oil as they deposited on the skin surface. CBD is easily separated and quantified from skin surface extracts via a HPLC-mass spectrometry methodology. However, the structural skeleton of triacylglycerides (TAGs) in hemp seed oil is same as those from the skin surface sebum. The strong hydrophobicity with subtle structural difference challenges their separation. In this project, a new reverse phase HPLC-high resolution mass spectrometry methodology was developed with a strong mobile phase normal propanol. The separated hemp seed oil TAGs in the chromatogram were identified and characterized using data-dependent acquisition (DDA) technology. Based on the daughter ion characterization, the separated peak with an ammonium adduct at 890.7226 [M + NH₄]⁺ was confirmed as the parent ion of glycerol with three omega-3 fatty acid chains. This is the first time TAG structure with direct HPLC-tandem mass spectrometry technology has been elucidated without a hydrolysis reaction. The confirmed TAG structure with an ammonium adduct at 890.7226 ± 0.0020 can be used as a representative chemical marker for the hemp seed oil quantification. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetic Applications of Cannabinoids)

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12 pages, 572 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Acne Vulgaris Potential of the Ethanolic Extract of Mesua ferrea L. Flowers

by Wongnapa Nakyai, Wachirachai Pabuprapap, Wichuda Sroimee, Vachiraporn Ajavakom, Boon-ek Yingyongnarongkul and Apichart Suksamrarn

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 107; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040107 - 12 Nov 2021

Cited by 10 | Viewed by 6786

Abstract

Acne vulgaris is a common chronic inflammatory skin disease. In the present study, we reported the anti-acne vulgaris effect of the Mesua ferrea (M. ferrea) flower extract. The extract was evaluated for three anti-acne-causing bacteria properties including Cutibacterium acnes (C. [...] Read more.

Acne vulgaris is a common chronic inflammatory skin disease. In the present study, we reported the anti-acne vulgaris effect of the Mesua ferrea (M. ferrea) flower extract. The extract was evaluated for three anti-acne-causing bacteria properties including Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes), Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis) and Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus). The results indicated that the M. ferrea flower extract could be considered as the bactericidal agent against S. epidermidis and S. aureus with MIC values of 0.78 and 6.25 mg mL⁻¹ and MBC values of 1.56 and 12.50 mg mL⁻¹ and the bacteriostatic agent against C. acnes with MIC and MBC values of 3.12 and 25.00 mg mL⁻¹, respectively. The extract at a concentration of 25 µg mL⁻¹ also presented potent anti-inflammatory activity with a significant decrease of nitric oxide (NO) and tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α productions in RAW 264.7 macrophage cells stimulated by LPS. In addition, the extract showed moderate to weak anti-oxidative capacities against DPPH, ABTS, FRAP and NO assays and also showed weak anti-tyrosinase activity. M. ferrea flower extract may serve as the alternative natural anti-acne formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Green Ingredients in Cosmetics and Food (Volume II))

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24 pages, 1137 KiB

Open AccessReview

Natural Antioxidants from Plant Extracts in Skincare Cosmetics: Recent Applications, Challenges and Perspectives

by Hien Thi Hoang, Ju-Young Moon and Young-Chul Lee

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 106; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040106 - 10 Nov 2021

Cited by 108 | Viewed by 44148

Abstract

In recent years, interest in the health effects of natural antioxidants has increased due to their safety and applicability in cosmetic formulation. Nevertheless, efficacy of natural antioxidants in vivo is less documented than their prooxidant properties in vivo. Plant extracts rich in vitamins, [...] Read more.

In recent years, interest in the health effects of natural antioxidants has increased due to their safety and applicability in cosmetic formulation. Nevertheless, efficacy of natural antioxidants in vivo is less documented than their prooxidant properties in vivo. Plant extracts rich in vitamins, flavonoids, and phenolic compounds can induce oxidative damage by reacting with various biomolecules while also providing antioxidant properties. Because the biological activities of natural antioxidants differ, their effectiveness for slowing the aging process remains unclear. This review article focuses on the use of natural antioxidants in skincare and the possible mechanisms underlying their desired effect, along with recent applications in skincare formulation and their limitations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2021)

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15 pages, 3325 KiB

Open AccessProject Report

Strategy for the Development of a New Lipstick Formula

by Luigi Rigano and Marta Montoli

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 105; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040105 - 5 Nov 2021

Cited by 5 | Viewed by 8555

Abstract

The strategy to adopt for the development of a new lipstick formula requires, as a first step, the definition of the most important characteristics of a modern product. Successively, the identification of the key properties of any innovative ingredient is necessary. Then, a [...] Read more.

The strategy to adopt for the development of a new lipstick formula requires, as a first step, the definition of the most important characteristics of a modern product. Successively, the identification of the key properties of any innovative ingredient is necessary. Then, a comprehension of the key parameters in the establishment of a stable equilibrium among the different formula components in the solid state is important. Moreover, it is necessary to study the interactions among the new ingredients and the other structural components in the formula. Finally, an evaluation of the sensory properties of the different final formulae for fine-tuning of practical performances needs to be carefully carried out. In this study, a systematic formulation approach tried to obtain a new lipstick formula using a new vegetal-derived emollient *(INCLUDING COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE, HYDROGENATED OLIVE OIL UNSAPONIFIABLES) with sensorial properties similar to some types of silicones. Some application trials of the new raw material were carried out. The following aspects of this ingredient were investigated: (1) Compatibility and thickening with waxes, (2) dispersion power of pigments, and (3) influence on sensory characteristics of the formulated lipstick. This new emollient has been shown to improve some aspects of a lipstick formula, in particular shine, homogeneity, and covering effect. The optimization of the formula, in order to increase the sensation of softness on the lips, is described. *Plantasens Olive LD SP ECO, supplier Clariant Gmbh. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2021)

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15 pages, 3335 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Di (Isoquinolin-1-Yl) Sulfane (DIQS) Inhibits Melaninogenesis by Modulating PKA/CREB and MAPK Signaling Pathways

by Jung Yoon Yang, Dae-Seop Shin, Kyu-Seok Hwang, Seong Soon Kim, Byung Hoi Lee, Se Hwan Ahn, Jin Hee Ahn and Myung Ae Bae

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 104; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040104 - 5 Nov 2021

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2927

Abstract

The novel synthetic compound Di (isoquinolin-1-yl) sulfane (DIQS) was identified by zebrafish larva screening during the development of an agent to inhibit abnormal hyperpigmentation. In this study, we investigated the inhibitory effect of DIQS on melanogenesis and its underlying mechanism. DIQS inhibited melanin [...] Read more.

The novel synthetic compound Di (isoquinolin-1-yl) sulfane (DIQS) was identified by zebrafish larva screening during the development of an agent to inhibit abnormal hyperpigmentation. In this study, we investigated the inhibitory effect of DIQS on melanogenesis and its underlying mechanism. DIQS inhibited melanin production and tyrosinase activity in B16F10 cells stimulated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), as well as zebrafish embryos and reconstituted human skin tissue containing melanocytes. DIQS decreased the mRNA and protein expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase at a concentration of 10 μM. DIQS also inhibited the phosphorylation of cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) and p-p38 and p-JNK stimulated by α-MSH. These results suggest that DIQS attenuates hyperpigmentation via inhibition of the cAMP/PKA/CREB/MITF/tyrosinase axis and MAPK pathways. Liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry analysis revealed that DIQS blocked the conversion of tyrosine to L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) in zebrafish embryos. Finally, we confirmed that DIQS was non-toxic in reconstituted human tissues such as the epidermis, used to test skin sensitization, and the cornea, used to test eye irritation. In summary, the results of this study suggest the potential of DIQS as a small-molecule agent for skin-whitening cosmetics and the treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders without biological toxicity. Full article

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Di (isoquinolin-1-yl) sulfane (DIQS) induced an anti-melanogenic effect in B16F10 murine melanoma cells. (A) The chemical structure of DIQS is shown. (B) B16F10 cells were treated with various concentrations of DIQS for 48 h. The viability of B16F10 cells was determined using the Cell counting kit-8. (C) The cells were harvested to measure melanin content. Cell lysates were photographed prior to measurement of the melanin content. (D) Melanin content in B16F10 cells was significantly inhibited by DIQS treatments. (E) Tyrosinase activity induced by α-MSH was decreased in B16F10 cells at a concentration of 10 µM after 48 h of DIQS treatment. DIQS inhibited tyrosinase activity in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. Data are means ± standard deviation (SD). * p < 0.05; ** p < 0.01 (vs. the α-MSH treated group). Full article ">Figure 2
DIQS affected the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins and upstream signaling pathways. (A) B16F10 cells were incubated with the indicated concentrations of DIQS for 48 h. mRNA levels of the melanogenesis-related genes MITF, tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 were determined by qRT-PCR. The results are expressed relative to untreated cells after normalization against the GAPDH level. (B) B16F10 cells were incubated with the indicated concentrations of DIQS for 48 h. Arbutin was used as a positive control. The protein levels of MITF, tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 were determined by Western blot analysis. (C) Phosphorylation levels of CREB and MAPKs were also determined by Western blot analysis. The phosphorylation level of each MAPK is expressed relative to the respective total protein level. Protein levels were quantified using myImageAnalysis v2.0 software. Data are means ± SD. * p < 0.05 and ** p < 0.01 (vs. the α-MSH-treated group). Full article ">Figure 3
DIQS treatment inhibited melanin synthesis in pigmented human skin tissue. (A) Representative images of cultured human skin tissue. Melanin pellets were prepared as described in the Materials and Methods, and photographs were taken prior to measurement of melanin content. (B) Melanin content in the Neoderm-ME model was inhibited by 10 µM DIQS. (C) Tyrosinase activity in the Neoderm-ME model was inhibited by 10 µM DIQS. Data are means ± SD. * p < 0.05 and ** p < 0.01 (vs. the α-MSH-treated group). Full article ">Figure 4
DIQS treatment inhibited melanogenesis in zebrafish embryos. Synchronized embryos were treated with 0.08% dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), 0.2 mM PTU, 20 mM arbutin, and various concentrations of DIQS. (A) Zebrafish embryos were photographed using the Leica MZ10 F stereomicroscope and edited using the Leica Application Suite software. Lysates from zebrafish embryos were prepared as described in the Materials and Methods. Photographs were taken prior to measurement of the melanin content. (B) Melanin content in zebrafish embryos was dose-dependently inhibited by DIQS treatment. (C) For tyrosinase activity measurements, 2500 μg total protein was incubated with 100 µL of 1 mM L-DOPA for 1 h at 37 °C, and the absorbance was measured at 495 mm. Data are means ± SD. * p < 0.05 and ** p < 0.01 (vs. the DMSO-treated group). Full article ">Figure 5
DIQS treatment attenuated melanin content without melanophore damage. (A) Zebrafish were treated with DIQS at 2.5 days post-fertilization to evaluate its effects on melanophore morphology. Melanophores in DMSO-, arbutin-, and DIQS-treated zebrafish embryos were visualized using the Leica MZ10 F stereomicroscope. (B) Melanin pellets were prepared and photographed for comparisons between groups. (C) Melanin content was analyzed in zebrafish embryos. (D) Tyrosinase activity was measured as described in the Materials and Methods. (E) Tyrosine and L-DOPA in zebrafish embryos were quantitatively analyzed by liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry (LC–MS/MS). Data are L-DOPA/tyrosine ratios. * p < 0.05; ** p < 0.01 (vs. the DMSO-treated group). Full article ">Figure 6
DIQS did not exhibit irritable effects in artificial human skin and cornea tissues. DIQS toxicity assays were performed using artificial skin and cornea models in accordance with the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) guidelines. (A) The effect of DIQS on skin irritation was tested using the Neoderm-ED reconstituted human skin model. (B) The effect of DIQS on acute cornea irritation was tested using the Neoderm-CD reconstituted human cornea model. Full article ">

11 pages, 252 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Analysis and Quantification of Alkyl (C12-22) Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride Content in Cosmetics: Regulatory Compliance Gap Analysis

by Ammar Abdulrahman Jairoun, Sabaa Saleh Al-Hemyari, Moyad Shahwan and Sa’ed H. Zyoud

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 103; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040103 - 3 Nov 2021

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 5137

Abstract

Background: Exceeding the recommended Alkyl (C12-22) trimethyl ammonium bromide and chloride levels in cosmetics and personal care products is a serious health threat. Objectives: To quantify and investigate Cetrimonium chloride and Behentrimonium chloride in cosmetics and personal care products in the UAE market [...] Read more.

Background: Exceeding the recommended Alkyl (C12-22) trimethyl ammonium bromide and chloride levels in cosmetics and personal care products is a serious health threat. Objectives: To quantify and investigate Cetrimonium chloride and Behentrimonium chloride in cosmetics and personal care products in the UAE market to gauge whether or not they adhered to requirements for safety and health. Methods: A total of 164 cosmetics products were collected and analyzed in this study. The gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS) method was developed and validated for the determination of Cetrimonium chloride and Behentrimonium chloride surfactants in cosmetics products. With each product, Cetrimonium chloride and Behentrimonium chloride (%) were calculated. To test cross-group differences in Cetrimonium chloride and Behentrimonium chloride (%), Kruskal–Wallis test was applied. Results: Of the 125 tested cosmetics and personal care products, five (4%) exceeded the recommended Cetrimonium chloride level in rinse-off hair products (2.5%), 10 (8%) exceeded the recommended Cetrimonium chloride level in leave-on hair products (1%), and 24 (61.5%) exceeded the recommended Cetrimonium chloride level used as a preservative in cosmetics products. Moreover, of the 125 tested cosmetics and personal care products, 21 (53.8%) exceeded the recommended Behentrimonium chloride level used as preservatives in cosmetics products. Conclusions: Although several structures for cosmetics quality and control across the globe are fairly comprehensive and intricate, there is a need to make them more rigorous to apply compliance with GMP and ensure regulatory control. Doing so would help enhance the inspection and regulation of cosmetics containing Behentrimonium chloride/Cetrimonium chloride preservatives. Furthermore, there is a dire need to establish a unified cosmetovigilance worldwide. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2021)

10 pages, 1229 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Miniaturized Sample Preparation Methods to Simultaneously Determine the Levels of Glycols, Glycol Ethers and Their Acetates in Cosmetics

by Maria Celeiro, Laura Rubio, Carmen Garcia-Jares and Marta Lores

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 102; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040102 - 3 Nov 2021

Cited by 6 | Viewed by 4039

Abstract

Two environmentally friendly methodologies based on ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) and micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion (µMSPD) followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis are proposed for the first time for the simultaneous analysis of 17 glycols, glycol ethers, and their acetates in cosmetics. These sample [...] Read more.

Two environmentally friendly methodologies based on ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) and micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion (µMSPD) followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis are proposed for the first time for the simultaneous analysis of 17 glycols, glycol ethers, and their acetates in cosmetics. These sample preparation approaches result in efficient and low-cost extraction while employing small amounts of sample, with a low consumption of reagents and organic solvents. The use of a highly polar column allows for the direct analysis of the obtained extracts by GC-MS without a previous derivatization step, drastically reducing the sample preparation time and residues and thus complying with green analytical chemistry (GAC) principles. Both the UAE and µMSPD methodologies were validated in terms of linearity, accuracy, and precision, providing satisfactory results. LODs were found to be lower than 0.75 µg g⁻¹, allowing the determination of trace levels of the forbidden target compounds. Finally, the validated methodologies were applied to real cosmetics and personal care products, showing suitability, and providing a reliable and useful tool for cosmetics control laboratories. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Trends in Cosmetics: New Ingredients and Properties, Regulatory Issues and Analytical Challenges)

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13 pages, 3056 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Ceriporia lacerata Mycelium Culture Medium as a Novel Anti-Aging Microbial Material for Cosmeceutical Application

by Jeong-Hwan Kim, Changhun An, Seong Deok Hwang and Yoon Soo Kim

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 101; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040101 - 2 Nov 2021

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 5507

Abstract

Skincare is very critical in preventing aging and skin trouble, which is difficult to recover if progressed. However, the development of effective anti-aging solutions is still on the horizon. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the functional efficacy of Ceriporia lacerata [...] Read more.

Skincare is very critical in preventing aging and skin trouble, which is difficult to recover if progressed. However, the development of effective anti-aging solutions is still on the horizon. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the functional efficacy of Ceriporia lacerata exo-pharmaceutical substance (CLEPS) in view of its use in innovative skin care cosmetics. CLEPS was found to have no cytotoxicity against normal human dermal fibroblasts and B16 melanoma cells in a wide concentration range of 0.05–7 mg/mL. It exhibited a whitening effect by inhibiting melanin synthesis comparable to that of the respective reference compound (arbutin). Notably, CLEPS not only substantially increased collagen (65.4%) and filaggrin synthesis (36%), but also significantly inhibited the activity of collagenase (93.4%), suggesting that CLEPS could prevent skin barrier damage or skin wrinkles. In addition, it showed an excellent anti-inflammatory effect and wound-healing effect. Overall, CLEPS exhibited exceptional anti-aging effects in human skin cells, designating as a potential natural cosmeceutical ingredient. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics in the Age of Green Technologies)

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Full article ">Figure 1
Green manufacturing method of Ceriporia lacerata exo-pharmaceutical substance (CLEPS), including solid culture (a) and downstream processes (b) such as pre-culture (i), main culture (ii), and filtration (iii). Full article ">Figure 1 Cont.
Green manufacturing method of Ceriporia lacerata exo-pharmaceutical substance (CLEPS), including solid culture (a) and downstream processes (b) such as pre-culture (i), main culture (ii), and filtration (iii). Full article ">Figure 2
Anti-oxidation efficacy of CLEPS via DPPH (a) and ABTS (b) assays. p > 0.05 vs. 0 mg/mL. Full article ">Figure 3
Cell viability and anti-inflammatory tests. Cell viability assays performed with a MTT assay on human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) (a) and B16 melanoma cells (b). Effects of CLEPS on expression of filaggrin mRNA (i) and proteins (ii) in HaCaT cells (c) (* p < 0.05 ** p < 0.01 *** p < 0.001 vs. untreated). Melanin inhibition in B16 melanoma cells was evaluated by comparing the change in melanin content (%) according to the change in absorbance of the CLEPS untreated group with α-MSH (d) (p > 0.05 vs. control). Full article ">Figure 4
Anti-inflammatory effects of CLEPS (100-500 µg/mL) by inhibiting the inflammatory factors, including NO (a), iNOS (b), COX2 (c), and TNFα (d). * p < 0.05 vs. normal, # p < 0.05 vs. control. Full article ">Figure 5
Effect of CLEPS on synthesis of collagen (a) (p > 0.05 vs. control) and inhibition of collagenase (b) (p > 0.05 vs. no PMA). Full article ">Figure 6
CLEPS-mediated acceleration of wound recovery. A wound healing assay was performed from 0 h to 48 h to analyze the effects of CLEPS (0–1 mg/mL) in HaCaT cells. Scale bar = 100 μm (a). Wound recovery by CLEPS treatment was quantified compared to each zero dose group (* p < 0.05) (b). Full article ">

2 pages, 164 KiB

Open AccessEditorial

Special Issue “Current and Evolving Practices in the Quality Control of Cosmetics”

by Kalliopi Dodou

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 100; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040100 - 29 Oct 2021

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 3596

Abstract

Quality Control (QC) testing of Cosmetic personal care and fragrance products is a key part of the products’ launch to the market [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Evolving Practices in the Quality Control of Cosmetics)

15 pages, 4785 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Exploring the Utility of Diffusing Wave Spectroscopy (DWS) as a Novel Tool for Early Detection of Stability Issues in Cosmetic Emulsions

by Mackenzie Kolman, Gregory Boland and Samiul Amin

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 99; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040099 - 28 Oct 2021

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 4668

Abstract

In the current cosmetic and personal care industry, it is of great importance to have a technique that detects instabilities quickly and effectively, as consumers are demanding more innovative and sustainable ingredients. Diffusing wave spectroscopy (DWS) is a potential solution as it is [...] Read more.

In the current cosmetic and personal care industry, it is of great importance to have a technique that detects instabilities quickly and effectively, as consumers are demanding more innovative and sustainable ingredients. Diffusing wave spectroscopy (DWS) is a potential solution as it is a modern optical technique that can measure the spatial movement of particles or droplets in an emulsion—i.e., the mean square displacement (MSD), as a function of time. In the current investigation, systematic visual and diffusion behavior emulsion stability studies over a 3-h period on jojoba and avocado oil emulsions containing varying equal percentages of cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) and sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) were conducted. The turbid emulsions studied had differing stabilities with unknown instability mechanisms to further explore if diffusing wave spectroscopy can offer a fast and early identification of problem cosmetic formulations. It was observed that, for emulsions displaying instability from 4 to 123 h, the greater the change in the MSD values over a 3-h period, the greater the instability of the emulsion. For all systems, the MSD values lowered and shifted to the right from hour 0 to hour 3. We conjecture that the emulsion droplets began to aggregate, potentially growing and giving rise to larger particles. The increasing particle size was the cause for the slowing down of the dynamics and thus diffusion, giving rise to the lowering of the MSD values. Our findings indicate that by testing an emulsion over a 3-h period, it is possible to determine whether it will be a problem formulation using DWS. Studies into this technology should be continued on a wider range of emulsions with known instability mechanisms to further our understanding of using DWS as a vital emulsion instability detector. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2021)

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10 pages, 7256 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Addressing Human Skin Ethnicity: Contribution of Tissue Engineering to the Development of Cosmetic Ingredients

by Christophe Capallere, Marianne Arcioni, Laura Restellini and Isabelle Imbert

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 98; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040098 - 15 Oct 2021

Viewed by 3925

Abstract

Recent publications describe various skin disorders in relation to phototypes and aging. The highest phototypes (III to VI) are more sensitive to acne, with the appearance of dark spots due to the inflammation induced by Cutibacterium acnes (previously Propionibacterium acnes). Dryness with [...] Read more.

Recent publications describe various skin disorders in relation to phototypes and aging. The highest phototypes (III to VI) are more sensitive to acne, with the appearance of dark spots due to the inflammation induced by Cutibacterium acnes (previously Propionibacterium acnes). Dryness with aging is due to a lower activity of specific enzymes involved in the maturation of lipids in the stratum corneum. To observe and understand these cutaneous issues, tissue engineering is a perfect tool. Since several years, pigmented epidermis with melanocytes derived from specific phototypes allow to develop in vitro models for biological investigations. In the present study, several models were developed to study various skin disorders associated with phototypes and aging. These models were also used to evaluate selected ingredients’ ability to decrease the negative effects of acne, inflammation, and cutaneous dryness. Hyperpigmentation was observed on our reconstructed pigmented epidermis after the application of C. acnes, and pollutant (PM10) application induced increased inflammatory cytokine release. Tissue engineering and molecular biology offer the capability to modify genetically cells to decrease the expression of targeted proteins. In our case, GCase was silenced to decrease the maturation of lipids and in turn modify the epidermal barrier function. These in vitro models assisted in the development of ethnic skin-focused cosmetic ingredients. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2021)

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Microscopic observation and immunodetection of proteins in RHPE. Microscopic observation after hematoxylin/eosin staining (a) and melanocyte observation (dark arrows) after Fontana-Masson staining (b). Immunodetection of pmel17 (c) and tyrosinase (d) in melanocytes present in the basal layer of pigmented epidermis (at day 10). Full article ">Figure 2
Effect of Myrciaria Dubia fruit extract on hyperpigmentation induced by C. acnes. Melanin was stained by Fontana-Masson staining. RHPE were pretreated with Myrciaria dubia fruit extract once a day for 2 days from Day 10. C. acnes was applied at day 12 for 24 h. Staining was performed on RHPE at day 14 (three pictures per condition were analyzed). Full article ">Figure 3
Effect of Myrciaria Dubia fruit extract on inflammation induced by pollutant (PM10) on RHPE. Histological observation was performed on RHPE after hematoxylin/eosin staining. RHPE were pretreated with Myrciaria Dubia fruit extract once a day for 2 days from Day 10. PM10 (particulate matter < 10 µm) were applied at day 12 for 24 h. Staining was performed on RHPE at day 14. Full article ">Figure 4
Effect of Myrciaria dubia fruit extract on lipid synthesis in GCase-deficient RHE. Keratinocytes were silenced with siGBA before the reconstruction. At day 6, RHE were treated with Myrciaria Dubia fruit extract for 2 days. Nile red staining was performed on RHE at day 8 (three pictures per condition were analyzed). Full article ">

12 pages, 2569 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Detection of Raspberry Ketone after Percutaneous Absorption of Rhododendrol-Containing Cosmetics and Its Mechanism of Formation

by Lihao Gu, Akio Fujisawa and Kazuhisa Maeda

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 97; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040097 - 12 Oct 2021

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 3380

Abstract

Here, we aimed to elucidate the mechanism of rhododendrol (RD)-induced leukoderma. We investigated the skin permeability of RD in an aqueous solution and in different cosmetic formulations (lotion and emulsion) in an in vitro skin permeation study. The samples were analyzed using high-performance [...] Read more.

Here, we aimed to elucidate the mechanism of rhododendrol (RD)-induced leukoderma. We investigated the skin permeability of RD in an aqueous solution and in different cosmetic formulations (lotion and emulsion) in an in vitro skin permeation study. The samples were analyzed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), and an unknown substance appeared on the spectrum. For identification, we analyzed various possible substances, such as raspberry ketone (RK) and rhododendrol quinone, using HPLC and then compared the detected absorption spectra and further verified the matched components using liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry. The unknown substance was found to be RK. To clarify the mechanism of formation of RK, we conducted a 24-h skin permeation test on heat-treated skin. By quantifying the RK in the samples using HPLC, we observed that an enzyme in the skin seemed to be the cause of RK generation and that the components of the emulsion formulation could also be a cause. To investigate the enzyme, we reacted alcohol dehydrogenase with RD and observed that it was one of the converting enzymes. As RK has been reported to be a substance that causes leukoderma, the intraepidermal metabolism of RD to RK may be one of the mechanisms of susceptibility to leukoderma. Full article

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Reduction of raspberry ketone (RK) to rhododendrol (RD). Full article ">Figure 2
Repeated application of the 2% RD solution increased skin permeability (circles, ○: one application; diamonds, ◇: two applications; and triangles, △: three applications). All data points are the means of two experiments. Full article ">Figure 3
Cumulative rate of permeation of RD with different cosmetic formulations after different times (a) and permeation rates of RD with different cosmetic formulations in different time periods (b) under application of a 2% RD solution with a finite dose (○, water; ◇, lotion; and △, emulsion). Each point shows the mean ± standard deviation (n = 3). Full article ">Figure 4
The unknown peak appearing at 210 nm on the HPLC chromatogram. Full article ">Figure 5
Mass spectra of different substances. Mass spectra of (a) RK standard and (b) RK in the sample. Full article ">Figure 6
RK generation by the skin with different treatments. RK concentrations in 24-h samples are shown under application of a 2% RD solution with a finite dose (█, normal skin; ▨, no skin; and □, heated skin). *, p < 0.05, emulsion formulation vs. water formulation with the same normal skin; **, p < 0.01, heat treatment (−) vs. heat treatment (+) with the same emulsion formulation). RK concentrations of NS (water, lotion, and emulsion) and HS (water and lotion) were below the detection limit. Full article ">Figure 7
Conversion of RD to RK by alcohol dehydratase (ADH). The effect of different concentrations of ADH and different times on the RK conversion ratio is shown with the application of different doses of ADH (in final concentrations of 0, 0.98, 9.8, or 98 units/mL) after different times (□, 30 min; ▨, 60 min; and █, 120 min). Data are presented as means ± standard deviation (n = 3). RK concentrations after 30 min (when ADH concentrations were 0, 0.98, 9.8, and 98 units/mL) and after 60 min (when ADH concentrations were 0 and 0.98 units/mL) were below the detection limit. Full article ">

18 pages, 1230 KiB

Open AccessArticle

New Antioxidant Ingredients from Brewery By-Products for Cosmetic Formulations

by Roberta Censi, Dolores Vargas Peregrina, Maria Rosa Gigliobianco, Giulio Lupidi, Cristina Angeloni, Letizia Pruccoli, Andrea Tarozzi and Piera Di Martino

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 96; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040096 - 7 Oct 2021

Cited by 7 | Viewed by 6092

Abstract

The purpose of this work was to evaluate the total phenol content and antioxidant activity of different types of handcrafted beers (Ego, Alter, Fiat Lux, Triplo Malto, Ubi, and Maior), as well as the starting materials (malts, hops, and yeast), the intermediate products, [...] Read more.

The purpose of this work was to evaluate the total phenol content and antioxidant activity of different types of handcrafted beers (Ego, Alter, Fiat Lux, Triplo Malto, Ubi, and Maior), as well as the starting materials (malts, hops, and yeast), the intermediate products, and the waste products (spent malts, hops, and yeast), in view of their use in innovative cosmetic formulations. Extractions from starting and spent samples were taken from water or 70° alcohol. The total phenol content (Folin Ciocalteau Essay) of all the brewing products depended on the specific product under investigation. The highest values were found in starting hops (ranging from approximately 93 to 155 mg GAE/g, according to the extraction solvent), intermediate ones in starting malt and starting yeast, and the lowest values in wort. The total phenol content in the final beers originates from the phenols that were extracted from the different ingredients, namely the starting malts, hops and yeast, but non-negligible values were still observed in spent products. The method used for the evaluation of the antioxidant activity, trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (DPPH), ferric-ion reducing antioxidant parameter (FRAP), and radical cation scavenging activity and reducing power (ABTS) strongly influenced the results. In general, the results reflected the trend observed for the total phenol content: that beers are progressively enriched by phenols originating from all the starting ingredients, and that spent products still possess non-negligible antioxidant activity. It is interesting to note that waste yeast frequently showed higher values than those of the starting material; it can be inferred that yeast is able to absorb phenols from the beer during brewing. By considering the interest in exploiting waste derived from processing foods, the biological activity of waste Alter brewery products has been evaluated on a cell culture of keratinocytes (spent products of malt, hop, and yeast). Preliminary in vitro assays in keratinocyte HaCaT cells were carried out to assess the potential bioactivity of spent extracts. Among the spent extracts, the spent hop and yeast extracts showed the ability to improve the mitochondrial activity and prevent oxidative stress in HaCaT cells, two features in skin ageing. In conclusion, this study offers evidence that waste from handcrafted beers can be an interesting source of phenols for the preparation of skin anti-aging cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Green Ingredients in Cosmetics and Food (Volume II))

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Illustration of the craft beer brewing process. Full article ">Figure 2
Cytotoxicity of SP-M, SP-H and SP-Y extracts in HaCaT cells. Cells were treated with various concentrations of extract (0.003-3 mg/mL) for 24 h. At the end of treatment, cell viability was evaluated by MTT assay, as described in the method section. Data are expressed as percentage of control cells and expressed as mean ± SD of three independent experiments (*** p < 0.001 vs. untreated cells; one-way ANOVA with Bonferroni post hoc test). Full article ">Figure 3
Effects of SP-M, SP-H and SP-Y extracts on mitochondrial activity in HaCaT cells. Cells were treated with 0.03 mg/mL extract for 4 h in absence of nutrient medium. At the end of treatment, mitochondrial activity was evaluated by MTT assay, as described in the method section. Data are expressed as percentage of control cells and expressed as mean ± SD of three independent experiments (§§§ p < 0.001 vs. cells with nutrient medium; * p < 0.05 and ** p < 0.01 vs. cells without nutrient medium; one-way ANOVA with Bonferroni post hoc test). Full article ">Figure 4
SP-M, SP-H and SP-Y extracts counteract the ROS formation induced by H2O2 in HaCaT cells. Cells were treated with extract (0.03 mg/mL) and H2O2 (100 µM) for 30 min. At the end of treatment, intracellular ROS formation was evaluated using the fluorescent probe H2DCF-DA, as described in the method section. Data are expressed as fold increase in ROS formation versus untreated cells and reported as mean ± SD of three independent experiments (*** p < 0.001 vs. cells treated with H2O2; one-way ANOVA with Dunnett post hoc test). Full article ">Figure 5
SP-H and SP-Y, but not SP-M, extracts prevent the ROS formation induced by H2O2 in HaCaT cells. Cells were treated with extract (0.03 mg/mL) for 2 h. Subsequently, the extract treatment was discarded and the cells was treated with H2O2 (100 µM) for 30 min. At the end of treatment, intracellular ROS formation was evaluated using the fluorescent probe H2DCF-DA, as described in the method section. Data are expressed as fold increase in ROS formation versus untreated cells and reported as mean ± SD of three independent experiments (* p < 0.05 vs. cells treated with H2O2; one-way ANOVA with Dunnett post hoc test). Full article ">

18 pages, 43903 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Physicochemical Performance of Collagen Modified by Melissa officinalis Extract

by Katarzyna Adamiak, Marzanna Kurzawa and Alina Sionkowska

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 95; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040095 - 30 Sep 2021

Cited by 8 | Viewed by 3577

Abstract

Collagen-based materials are widely used as adhesives in medicine and cosmetology. However, for several applications, their properties require modification. In this work, the influence of Melissa officinalis on the properties of collagen films was studied. Collagen was extracted from Silver Carp skin. Thin [...] Read more.

Collagen-based materials are widely used as adhesives in medicine and cosmetology. However, for several applications, their properties require modification. In this work, the influence of Melissa officinalis on the properties of collagen films was studied. Collagen was extracted from Silver Carp skin. Thin collagen films were prepared by solvent evaporation. The structure of films was researched using infrared spectroscopy. The surface properties of films were investigated using Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM). Mechanical properties were measured as well. Antioxidant activity was determined by spectrophotometric methods using DPPH free radicals, FRAP, and CUPRAC methods. Total phenolic compounds were determined by the Folin–Ciocalteau method. It was found that the addition of Melissa officinalis modified the roughness of collagen films and their mechanical properties. Moreover, the obtained material has antioxidant properties. The parameters mentioned above are very important in potential applications of collagen films containing Melissa officinalis in cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue The Application of Biopolymers in Cosmetics)

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9 pages, 1208 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Antiaging and Skin Irritation Potential of Four Main Indonesian Essential Oils

by Dwinna Rahmi, Retno Yunilawati, Bumiarto Nugroho Jati, Ira Setiawati, Arief Riyanto, Irmanida Batubara and Rika Indri Astuti

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 94; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040094 - 30 Sep 2021

Cited by 11 | Viewed by 6154

Abstract

Essential oils possess antiaging properties due to their antioxidant activity. This study aims to determine the antiaging activities of four main Indonesian essential oils and their irritation potential on the skin. The spot yeast and in vivo rat skin with UVB exposure methods [...] Read more.

Essential oils possess antiaging properties due to their antioxidant activity. This study aims to determine the antiaging activities of four main Indonesian essential oils and their irritation potential on the skin. The spot yeast and in vivo rat skin with UVB exposure methods were used to analyze the antiaging activity of essential oils on aging triggered by endogenous and exogenous factors, respectively. Meanwhile, patch tests and clinical evaluations were used for the skin irritation potential analysis. The antiaging activity results from the endogenous factor showed that the use of clove, patchouli, nutmeg, and citronella oils increased yeast viability at concentrations of 20, 40, 60, and 100 µg/mL, respectively. Furthermore, nutmeg, cloves, citronella, and patchouli oils decreased the wrinkle score on rat skin after UVB exposure (exogenous factor). The skin irritation potential results of patchouli, nutmeg, citronella, and clove oils were none (0), slightly (0.02), moderately (0.09), and very irritating (0.39), respectively. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Trends in Cosmetics: New Ingredients and Properties, Regulatory Issues and Analytical Challenges)

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Graphical abstract

Graphical abstract
Full article ">Figure 1
Chromatography spectra of (a) clove oil, (b) citronella oil, (c) patchouli oil, and (d) nutmeg oil. Full article ">Figure 2
Effect of essential oils’ antiaging properties on yeast S. pombe’s viability. The yeast culture in YES+DMSO and without DMSO medium was used as a control. Full article ">Figure 3
Effect of essential oils on yeast S. pombe’s aging. The yeast culture in YES + DMSO and without DMSO was used as a control. Moreover, the organism was grown on a medium of 3% and 0.3% glucose as a negative and positive control, respectively. Full article ">Figure 4
Wrinkle scores on rat skin after UVB exposure, where the naive was unexposed, and the blank exposed. The essential oil was a carrier subjected to UVB, with *, **, *** having values of <0.05, 0.01, and 0.001, compared to the blank. Full article ">Figure 5
Effects of UVB exposure and essential oil influence on the dorsal skin of the rat’s back legs: (a) naive, (b) blank, (c) clove oil, (d) citronella oil, (e) patchouli oil, and (f) nutmeg oil. Naive is rat’s back legs without being sampled and without UVB exposure. Blank is hairless rat’s back legs with sampling and UVB exposure. Full article ">

15 pages, 1475 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Three New Dexpanthenol-Containing Face Creams: Performance and Acceptability after Single and Repeated Applications in Subjects of Different Ethnicity with Dry and Sensitive Skin

by Ana Barrionuevo-Gonzalez, Sonja Trapp, Raffaella de Salvo, Marina Reitmann, Eva Cassar, Siham Rharbaoui, Florence Reber and Hans Stettler

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 93; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040093 - 29 Sep 2021

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 4896

Abstract

Three novel face creams containing dexpanthenol with different lipid contents were developed for dry skin sufferers: a day face cream (DFC), a day face cream with sun protection (DFC-SPF), and a night face cream (NFC). Three identically designed studies (N = 42–44 each) [...] Read more.

Three novel face creams containing dexpanthenol with different lipid contents were developed for dry skin sufferers: a day face cream (DFC), a day face cream with sun protection (DFC-SPF), and a night face cream (NFC). Three identically designed studies (N = 42–44 each) were conducted with healthy adults of three ethnicities (African, Asian, Caucasian) with dry/sensitive skin. Effects on stratum corneum (SC) hydration, SC lipid content, and skin elasticity were quantified by established noninvasive methods during the 4-week studies. After single and repeated once-daily applications of the face creams, facial hydration significantly increased from baseline. On day 28, the mean increments in skin hydration amounted to 27%, 26%, and 27% (p < 0.0001 each) for DFC, DFC-SPF, and NFC, respectively. Favorable effects of DFC, DFC-SPF, and NFC on facial moisturization were observed in all three ethnic groups. The enhancements in SC hydration were not paralleled by improvements in skin elasticity parameters but lipid analyses showed significant increases in SC cholesterol, SC free fatty acid, and/or SC ceramide levels. All three face creams were well tolerated and achieved a high product satisfaction and acceptability by study participants. Our findings support the once-daily use of the face creams in adults of different ethnicities with dry and sensitive skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue The Role of Lipids in Skin and Their Impact on Stress, Aging and Inflammation)

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Figure 1
Continuous capacitance color maps of one representative subject per ethnicity. Color maps were assessed at baseline (Day 0) and following once-daily application of DFC over approximately 4 weeks (Day 28). The color code for corneometry values (0–110 a.u.) is shown on the right. Blue color represents hydrated skin and red color represents dry skin. Full article ">Figure 2
Mean ± SD content of ceramides in stratum corneum by ethnicity following once-daily application of DFC over approximately 4 weeks. N = 14, 14, and 14 for Caucasians, Africans, and Asians, respectively. D 0 = baseline value; D 7 = day 7; D 28 = day 28; a.u. = arbitrary units. Full article ">Figure 3
Continuous capacitance color maps of one representative subject per ethnicity. Color maps were assessed at baseline (Day 0) and following once-daily application of DFC-SPF over approximately 4 weeks (Day 28). The color code for corneometry values (0–110 a.u.) is shown on the right. Blue color represents hydrated skin and red color represents dry skin. Full article ">Figure 4
Mean ± SD content of cholesterol in stratum corneum by ethnicity following once-daily application of DFC-SPF over approximately 4 weeks. N = 14, 14, and 14 for Caucasians, Africans, and Asians, respectively. D 0 = baseline value; D 7 = day 7; D 28 = day 28. Full article ">Figure 5
Continuous capacitance color maps of one representative subject per ethnicity. Color maps were assessed at baseline (Day 0) and following once-daily application of NFC over approximately 4 weeks (Day 28). The color code for corneometry values (0–110 a.u.) is shown on the right. Blue color represents hydrated skin and red color represents dry skin. Full article ">Figure 6
Mean ± SD content of free fatty acids in stratum corneum by ethnicity following once-daily application of NFC over approximately 4 weeks. N =14,15, and 13 for Caucasians, Africans, and Asians, respectively. D 0 = baseline value; D 7 = day 7; D 28 = day 28; FFA = free fatty acids. Full article ">

21 pages, 1718 KiB

Open AccessReview

Genetic and Epigenetic Aspects of Skin Collagen Fiber Turnover and Functioning

by Nikolay N. Potekaev, Olga B. Borzykh, German V. Medvedev, Marina M. Petrova, Oksana A. Gavrilyuk, Elena I. Karpova, Vera V. Trefilova, Olga M. Demina, Tatiana E. Popova and Natalia A. Shnayder

Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 92; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040092 - 29 Sep 2021

Cited by 8 | Viewed by 8382

Abstract

One of the most important functions of the skin, i.e., protection from mechanical damage, is ensured by collagen fibers and their interaction with other elements in the extracellular matrix. Collagen fiber turnover is a complex multi-stage process. At each stage, a disruption may [...] Read more.

One of the most important functions of the skin, i.e., protection from mechanical damage, is ensured by collagen fibers and their interaction with other elements in the extracellular matrix. Collagen fiber turnover is a complex multi-stage process. At each stage, a disruption may occur, leading to a decrease in the mechanical properties of the connective tissue. Clinically, collagen formation disorders manifest themselves as increased flabbiness and looseness of the skin and as early signs of facial aging. In addition to the clinical picture, it is important for cosmetologists and dermatologists to understand the etiology and pathogenesis of collagenopathies. In our review, we summarized and systematized the available information concerning the role of genetic and epigenetic factors in skin collagen fiber turnover. Furthermore, we focused on the functions of different types of collagens present in the skin. Understanding the etiology of impaired collagen formation can allow doctors to prescribe pathogenetically based treatments, achieve the most effective results, and minimize adverse reactions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Trends in Cosmetics: New Ingredients and Properties, Regulatory Issues and Analytical Challenges)

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Figure 1
Main skin collagens: dermal (types I and III) and dermal-epidermal junction (types IV, VII, and XVII) collagens. Full article ">Figure 2
Tropocollagen synthesis and the genes responsible for the synthesis of procollagen α-chains in the skin: COL1A1, COL1A2—genes encoding collagen type I; COL3A1—gene encoding collagen type III; COL4A1, COL4A2—genes encoding collagen type IV; COL5A1, COL5A2—genes encoding collagen type V; COL6A1, COL6A2, COL6A3, COL6A5, COL6A6—genes encoding collagen type VI; COL7A1—gene encoding collagen type VII; COL14A1—gene encoding collagen type XIV; COL17A1—gene encoding collagen type XVII. Symbols: 1—gene; 2—transcription; 3—splicing and processing; 4—messenger ribonucleic acid (mRNA); 5—collagen α-chains; 6—ribosomes; 7—transfer ribonucleic acid (tRNA). Full article ">Figure 3
Intracellular post-translational modifications of tropocollagen and the genes involved in post-translational changes of skin procollagen: P4HA1, P4HA2, P4HB—genes encoding prolyl-4-hydroxylase; PLOD1, PLOD2, PLOD3—genes encoding procollagen lysine,2-oxoglutarate-5-dioxygenase; LOX—gene encoding lysyl hydroxylase. Symbols: 1—α-chain of collagen; 2—hydroxylation; 3—glycosylation; 4—interchain bond formation at C-terminal domains; 5—procollagen triple helix formation. Full article ">Figure 4
Extracellular post-translational changes in tropocollagen and the genes involved in post-translational changes in skin procollagen: ADAMTS1, ADAMTS2, ADAMTS10—genes encoding the enzyme called A disintegrin and metalloproteinase with thrombospondin motifs; BMP1, BMP2, BMP4, BMP7—genes encoding bone morphogenetic proteins/tolloid-like proteinase; LOX—gene encoding lysyl oxidase. Symbols: 1—N-propeptide; 2—C-propeptide; 3—D-period; 4—cleavage of terminal propeptides; 5—assembly of microfibrils; 6—collagen fibril; 7—aggregation of fibrils into collagen fiber. Full article ">Figure 5
Collagen degradation and the genes responsible for the stages of skin collagen degradation: MMP1, MMP2, MMP3, MMP8, MMP9, MMP13—genes encoding matrix metalloproteinases; TIMP1, TIMP2, TIMP3—genes encoding matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors. Designations: 1—cleavage of intact bonds in the collagen helix (MMP-1); 2—denaturation of gelatin (MMP-2, MMP-9); 3—phagocytosis of collagen residues by fibroblasts and macrophages. Full article ">

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Cosmetics, Volume 8, Issue 4 (December 2021) – 29 articles

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