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Cosmetics
Volume 7
Issue 4
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Cosmetics, Volume 7, Issue 4 (December 2020) – 26 articles

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17 pages, 1064 KiB  
Review
Final Publication of the “Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics” and New Prospectives of Cosmetic Science in China
by Zhe Su, Fei-ya Luo, Xin-rong Pei, Feng-lan Zhang, Shu-xia Xing and Gang-li Wang
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 98; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040098 - 17 Dec 2020
Cited by 11 | Viewed by 11722
Abstract
In June 2020, the new “Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics” (CSAR) was finally issued and published in China. This is the first revision of the “Regulations on Hygiene Supervision of Cosmetics” (CHSR) since its publication in 1989. As the basic [...] Read more.
In June 2020, the new “Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics” (CSAR) was finally issued and published in China. This is the first revision of the “Regulations on Hygiene Supervision of Cosmetics” (CHSR) since its publication in 1989. As the basic and fundamental legislation for cosmetics, CSAR has a far-reaching impact on the whole industry and also reveals new trends in scientific research work. To provide an interpretation of this regulation and help enterprises and researchers better understand the new policies, in this study, the main contents of CSAR and its regulatory system were introduced, and the major changes and background considerations were summarized, especially in the definition and scope of cosmetics, classification and categorization, ingredient management, safety evaluation, efficacy substantiation and technical evaluation work. A brief review of technical progress worldwide and a comparison of regulatory requirements were provided where necessary. Finally, new prospects of cosmetic science in China were discussed. In conclusion, CSAR will initiate a renewed and integrated regulatory system for cosmetics. Advanced concepts of supervision, encouragement of innovation, utilization of technical approaches and emphasis on scientific investigations are reflected in the regulations, which will deeply influence the development of both cosmetic products and new ingredients. With all these new challenges and opportunities, everyone involved should get prepared. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2020)
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<p>General distribution of existing special cosmetics in China. It is an approximate proportion generated from the total numbers of valid products in each category.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Major regulations involved in the technical evaluation of cosmetics. In this figure, regulations directly or strongly related to the technical evaluation work of cosmetic products and new ingredients are included, and the curves indicate the relevance of the regulations: (a) these regulations are based on and under the system of the “Provisions for Cosmetic Registration”; (b) the “Standards of IF for Cosmetic Product” is the core regulation in product submission, and technical regulations are cited in the standards as basis or reference; (c) the “Standards of IF for New Cosmetic Ingredient” is the core regulation in new ingredient submission, and technical regulations are cited in the standards as basis or reference. In addition, it contributes to the ingredient management system together with IECIC and STSC; (d) the “Efficacy and Claims Substantiation Standards” and “Rules and Catalog for Categorization” share a unified logic and principle of efficacy category; (e) labeling information of cosmetic products should be based on efficacy and claim substantiation.</p> Full article ">
2 pages, 144 KiB  
Editorial
Special Issue “Exercise-Induced Facial Rejuvenation and Orofacial Strength and Function”
by Takashi Abe
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 97; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040097 - 15 Dec 2020
Viewed by 3505
Abstract
The desire to stay young and beautiful forever is a common aspiration for everyone [...] Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Exercise-induced Facial Rejuvenation and Orofacial Strength and Function)
19 pages, 5972 KiB  
Article
Preliminary Studies on an Innovative Bioactive Skin Soluble Beauty Mask Made by Combining Electrospinning and Dry Powder Impregnation
by Jorge Teno, María Pardo-Figuerez, Nancy Hummel, Vincent Bonin, Alessandra Fusco, Claudio Ricci, Giovanna Donnarumma, Maria-Beatrice Coltelli, Serena Danti and Jose María Lagaron
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 96; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040096 - 11 Dec 2020
Cited by 24 | Viewed by 6969
Abstract
The world of cosmetics is now aiming at biobased materials which are skin-compatible and can be used to generate more sustainable beauty masks with enhanced bioactivity. This work presents, in this line of interest, the combination of two innovative technologies, namely electrospinning and [...] Read more.
The world of cosmetics is now aiming at biobased materials which are skin-compatible and can be used to generate more sustainable beauty masks with enhanced bioactivity. This work presents, in this line of interest, the combination of two innovative technologies, namely electrospinning and dry powder impregnation, to generate biobased skin soluble electrospun pullulan carriers dry impregnated with chitin nanofibrils-nanolignin-glycyrrethinic acid (CLA) complexes, as effective biobased and skin compatible beauty masks. The scalability of the pullulan electrospun carrier and bioactive complexes impregnation were optimized and the morphology evaluated. Subsequently, skin compatibility and mask effectiveness were investigated in vitro and in vivo. The results showed that cell viability was optimal for both impregnated and neat pullulan fibers. Additionally, the CLA impregnated pullulan fibers were able to upregulate the endogenous antimicrobial molecule HBD-2. Preliminary studies in vivo indicated that the beauty mask containing the CLA complexes significantly decreased area, length and depth of forehead and crow’s feet wrinkles, and significantly increased moisturizing levels in the skin. The developed beauty mask was also seen to increase skin firmness, while it did not show skin irritation after the test. The work demonstrates that the combination of these two technologies may open new alternatives to more sustainable bioactive cosmetic products for the skin. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Chitin Nanofibrils and Nanolignin for Advanced Cosmeceuticals)
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Figure 1
<p>(<b>a</b>) Electrospinning equipment Fluidnatek<sup>TM</sup> LE-500; (<b>b</b>) Electrospun pullulan mesh rolled sample.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>(<b>a</b>) Pullulan electrospun mesh being inserted into the pilot equipment for dry impregnation. (<b>b</b>) Sketch of the dry impregnation technology (S-Preg). (<b>c</b>) Pullulan electrospun mesh impregnated with CLA complexes.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>Example of wrinkle study carried out using the image analysis methodology reported above.</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>(<b>a</b>) Representative scanning electron microscope (SEM) images of the pullulan electrospun carrier (2200×); (<b>b</b>) Electrospun pullulan fiber size distribution. Scale bar is 20 microns.</p> Full article ">Figure 5
<p>Particle size distribution of the CLA complexes. [CLA stands for CN-NL-GA].</p> Full article ">Figure 6
<p>Representative SEM micrograph (2500×) of electrospun pullulan mesh impregnated with CLA, visible as microparticles attached to the fibers. [CLA stands for CN-NL-GA]. Scale bar is 40 microns.</p> Full article ">Figure 7
<p>ATR-FTIR spectra of (<b>a</b>) pullulan/CLA (i.e., beauty mask); (<b>b</b>) CLA complex; (<b>c</b>) pure pullulan powder. [CLA stands for CN-NL-GA].</p> Full article ">Figure 8
<p>Bar graph showing ABred%, which indicates metabolic activity of cells after being added during the culture with a piece of soluble beauty mask, either plain or CLA-impregnated pullulan fiber meshes. No statistically significant differences were observed between pullulan and pullulan/CLA in the same cell/timepoint groups (<span class="html-italic">p</span> = n.s.) [CLA stands for CN-NL-GA].</p> Full article ">Figure 9
<p>Relative gene expression of HBD-2 by HaCaT cells in contact with pullulan and pullulan/CLA (beauty mask) for 6 h and 24 h. Data are reported as mean ± SD and are expressed as percentage of increment relative to untreated HaCaT cells (as controls; ctrl). [CLA stands for CN-NL-GA].</p> Full article ">Figure 10
<p>Adipo-differentiated hMSCs: (<b>a</b>) as observed under light microscopy: fat vesicles are pointed by arrows; (<b>b</b>,<b>c</b>) Live cell fluorescent staining (Calcein AM) of adipo-differentiated hMSCs placed together with (<b>b</b>) pullulan and (<b>c</b>) pullulan/CLA beauty mask samples for 5 days. Original magnification 100×. [CLA stands for CN-NL-GA].</p> Full article ">Figure 11
<p>Functional analysis of the anti-irritant effects of mask PBSK-1 and mask PBSK-2 over time. The mean and the standard error of the median are plotted as percentage. A dashed red line is set at T<sub>1</sub> and is indicative of the beginning of each treatment. For statistical significance, a paired t-test was applied to the normalized values of each time point, comparing the treated vs. untreated areas.</p> Full article ">Figure 12
<p>Graphical representation of the total area (<b>a</b>), length (<b>b</b>) and depth (<b>c</b>) of forehead wrinkles before (D<sub>0</sub>), after 15 days of treatment (D<sub>15</sub>) and after 30 days of treatment (D<sub>30</sub>), with mask PBSK-1 or mask PBSK-2, in 30 human volunteers, comparing each volunteer with its own control at D<sub>0</sub>. Statistical significances: * <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05; ** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.01; and *** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.001.</p> Full article ">Figure 13
<p>Graphical representation of the total area (<b>a</b>), length (<b>b</b>) and depth (<b>c</b>) of Crow’s feet wrinkles before (D<sub>0</sub>), after 15 days of treatment (D<sub>15</sub>) and after 30 days of treatment (D<sub>30</sub>), with mask PBSK-1 or mask PBSK-2, in 30 human volunteers, comparing each volunteer with its own control at day 0. Statistical significances: * <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05; ** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.01; and *** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.001.</p> Full article ">Figure 14
<p>Graphical representation of skin firmness quantified in the skin through Cutometer<sup>®</sup>, before (D<sub>0</sub>), after 15 days of treatment (D<sub>15</sub>) and after 30 days of treatment (D<sub>30</sub>), with mask PBSK-1 or mask PBSK-2, in 30 human volunteers, comparing each volunteer with its own control at day 0 and PBSK-1 with PBSK-2 at the same day. Statistical significances: * <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05.</p> Full article ">Figure 15
<p>Graphical representation of skin hydration (<b>a</b>) quantified through Corneometer<sup>®</sup> and TEWL (<b>b</b>) quantified through Tewameter<sup>®</sup>, before (D<sub>0</sub>), after 15 days of treatment (D<sub>15</sub>) and after 30 days of treatment (D<sub>30</sub>), with mask PBSK-1 or mask PBSK-2, in 30 human volunteers, comparing each volunteer with its own control at day 0. Statistical significances: * <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05; ** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.01.</p> Full article ">
10 pages, 1650 KiB  
Article
Changes in Skin Elasticity and Firmness Caused by Cosmetic Formulas Elaborated with Essential Oils of Aristeguietia glutinosa (matico) and Ocotea quixos (ishpingo). A Statistical Analysis
by Tatiana Mosquera, Sebastián Peña, Priscila Álvarez and Paco Noriega
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 95; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040095 - 10 Dec 2020
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 5667
Abstract
External factors such as prolonged exposure to solar radiation and environmental pollution accelerate the aging process of the skin, and this process is a challenge for pharmacological science. To counteract the effects of skin photoaging, the cosmetic industry has introduced natural topical products [...] Read more.
External factors such as prolonged exposure to solar radiation and environmental pollution accelerate the aging process of the skin, and this process is a challenge for pharmacological science. To counteract the effects of skin photoaging, the cosmetic industry has introduced natural topical products that have proved to be effective in reducing signs of age. In this sense, a statistical analysis was conducted on the changes in the properties of firmness and elasticity of the skin caused by cosmetic formulas (lotion and cream) elaborated with essential oils of Aristeguietia glutinosa (matico) and Ocotea quixos (ishpingo) in which the concentration of the oils in two cosmetic products (lotion and cream) varied to be tested in vivo, through the measurement of elasticity and firmness in three times T1 (0 day), T2 (28 days) and T3 (56 days), and in two age groups according to the Glogau scale (30 to 40 and 41 to 50 years). The results showed positive changes in the values of elasticity and firmness of the skin in the presentation of the lotion whose concentration was 20% Aristeguietia glutinosa (matico) and 80% Ocotea quixos (ishpingo), with a minimum application time of 28 days. Full article
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<p>Adjusted means of Sensory test analysis. Note. Two treatments without a common letter are statistically significant (<span class="html-italic">p</span> ≤ 0.05).</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Adjusted means of R5 factors R5 and R6. Note. Two treatments without a common letter are statistically significant (<span class="html-italic">p</span> ≤ 0.05).</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>Adjusted means of factors R0, F0 and F1. Note. Two treatments without a common letter are statistically significant (<span class="html-italic">p</span> ≤ 0.05).</p> Full article ">Figure 3 Cont.
<p>Adjusted means of factors R0, F0 and F1. Note. Two treatments without a common letter are statistically significant (<span class="html-italic">p</span> ≤ 0.05).</p> Full article ">
11 pages, 1698 KiB  
Article
Melanogenesis Effect of 7-acetoxy-4-methylcoumarin in B16F10 Melanoma Cells
by Ji-Han Sim, Sung-Chan Jang, Tae-Jin Park, Won-Jae Chi and Seung-Young Kim
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 94; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040094 - 2 Dec 2020
Viewed by 3601
Abstract
The increased interest in anti-whitening dyes has enhanced the research interest to identify efficient melanogenic activators. Melanogenesis is the process of melanin production by melanocytes in the hair follicles and skin, which is mediated by several enzymes, such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), [...] Read more.
The increased interest in anti-whitening dyes has enhanced the research interest to identify efficient melanogenic activators. Melanogenesis is the process of melanin production by melanocytes in the hair follicles and skin, which is mediated by several enzymes, such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2. This study investigated the melanogenesis-stimulating effect of 4-Methylumbelliferone (4MUMB) and its synthetic derivatives, 7-acetoxy-4-methylcoumarin (7A4MC) and 4-methylheriniarin (4MH) in B16F10 melanoma cells. The cytotoxicity of these compounds was investigated by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay, followed by the assessment of the melanin content and the intracellular TYR activity. Finally, the expression levels of the key enzymes involved in melanogenesis were investigated. 7A4MC increased melanin production in B16F10 cells relative to that by 4MUMB and 4MH treated cells in a dose-dependent manner without significant cytotoxicity. Concomitantly, 7A4MC significantly increased TYR activity and enhanced the expression of MITF, which significantly induced the expression of TRP-1, TRP-2, and TYR. Furthermore, 7A4MC stimulated melanogenesis via increased phosphorylation of c-Jun N-terminal kinases (JNK) and reduced phosphorylation of protein kinase B (AKT). These results confirmed the melanogenesis-inducing effects of 7A4MC and indicated its potential use as an anti-hair bleaching agent in cosmetics industries. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Aesthetic and Cosmetic Dermatology)
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<p>(<b>a</b>) High-pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis of 4-methylumbelliferone (4MUMB), 7-acetoxy-4-methylcoumarin (7A4MC), Structure and Mass analysis of 4MUMB and 7A4MC. (<b>b</b>) HPLC analysis of 4MUMB, 4-methylheriniarin (4MH), Structure and Mass analysis of 4MUMB and 4MH.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Cell viability of 4MUMB, 7A4MC, and 4MH-treated B16F10 mouse cells with (+) or without (-) <span class="html-italic">α</span>-MSH. The cells were supplemented with different concentrations (12.5, 25, and 50 µM) of 4MUMB, 7A4MC, and 4MH for 72 h and the proliferation of the cells was assessed.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>Effects of 4MUMB, 7A4MC, and 4MH on melanin production in B16F10 melanoma cells treated with (+) or without (-) <span class="html-italic">α</span>-MSH. The cells were treated with 4MUMB, 7A4MC, and 4MH (12.5, 25, and 50 µM) for 72 h. <span class="html-italic">α</span>-MSH (200 nM) was used as positive control. The data represent the mean ± SD of quadruple experiments. * <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05, ** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.01, *** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.005.</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>Effects of 7A4MC on tyrosinase (TYR) activity. B16F10 cells were treated with 7A4MC (12.5, 25, and 50 µM) for 72 h. <span class="html-italic">α</span>-MSH (200 nM) was used as positive control. The data represent the mean ± SD of quadruple experiments. ** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.01, *** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.005.</p> Full article ">Figure 5
<p>Effect of 7A4MC on MITF, TRP-1, 2, and TYR expression in B16F10 melanoma cells. Cells were treated with different concentrations of 7A4MC (12.5, 25, and 50 µM) for 48 h. <span class="html-italic">α</span>-MSH (200 nM) was used as positive control. (<b>a</b>) Result of Western blot and protein level of MITF, (<b>b</b>) TRP-1, (<b>c</b>) TRP-2, and (<b>d</b>) TYR. The data represent the mean ± SD of triplicate experiments. * <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05, ** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.01, *** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.005.</p> Full article ">Figure 6
<p>Effects of 7A4MC on the phosphorylation of p-AKT. B16F10 cells were treated with 7A4MC at the indicated concentrations for 4 h—the result of Western blot and protein level of p-AKT. The data represent the mean ± SD of triplicate experiments. *** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.005. p: Phosphorylated, t: Total.</p> Full article ">Figure 7
<p>Effect of 7A4MC on the phosphorylation of p-JNK, p-p38, p-ERK. B16F10 cells were treated with 7A4MC at different concentrations for 4 h. (<b>a</b>) Results of Western blot and protein level of p-JNK, (<b>b</b>) p-p38, and (<b>c</b>) p-ERK. Results are expressed as a percentage of the control. The data represent the mean ± SD of triplicate experiments. * <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05, ** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.01, *** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.005. p: Phosphorylated, t: Total.</p> Full article ">
10 pages, 247 KiB  
Article
Hidden Formaldehyde Content in Cosmeceuticals Containing Preservatives that Release Formaldehyde and Their Compliance Behaviors: Bridging the Gap between Compliance and Local Regulation
by Ammar Abdulrahman Jairoun, Sabaa Saleh Al-Hemyari, Moyad Shahwan, Sa’ed H. Zyoud and Akram Ashames
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 93; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040093 - 1 Dec 2020
Cited by 12 | Viewed by 8656
Abstract
Background: Many personal care products, and particularly cosmetic products, contain preservatives that release formaldehyde. These are potentially harmful to consumer health, especially considering that the levels of formaldehyde in some products are hidden and excessive. Objectives: To study the formaldehyde levels of preservatives [...] Read more.
Background: Many personal care products, and particularly cosmetic products, contain preservatives that release formaldehyde. These are potentially harmful to consumer health, especially considering that the levels of formaldehyde in some products are hidden and excessive. Objectives: To study the formaldehyde levels of preservatives in personal care products and cosmetics on the UAE market and determine the extent of compliance with health and safety requirements. Methods and Materials: Sixty-nine personal care and cosmetic product samples from the UAE market were collected and prepared to determine their formaldehyde content. According to the Second European Commission Directive 82/434/EEC of 2000 and as per the Gulf Technical Regulation, Safety Requirements of Cosmetics and Personal Care Products in GSO 1943:2016, quantitative analyses were performed to identify and quantify the content of formaldehyde as free formaldehyde. Results: With a maximum permissible limit of ≤0.2% w/w, the average formaldehyde content was found to be 0.083 with a 95% CI (0.039–0.13). Nine of the tested personal care and cosmetic products exceeded the recommended formaldehyde level, corresponding to 13% of all samples. None of these samples listed the free formaldehyde content or formaldehyde releaser. Conclusion: Applying good manufacturing practices (GMP), education, and regulatory control to improve the regulation and inspection of cosmetics containing formaldehyde releasers as preservatives, conducting research, and reporting the adverse side effects are highly recommended. There is an urgent need to monitor the incidence of skin sensitivity resulting from the use of cosmetics containing formaldehyde releasers as preservatives. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetovigilance: Public Health Perspective)
14 pages, 663 KiB  
Article
An Investigation into Incidences of Microbial Contamination in Cosmeceuticals in the UAE: Imbalances between Preservation and Microbial Contamination
by Ammar Abdulrahman Jairoun, Sabaa Saleh Al-Hemyari, Moyad Shahwan and Sa’ed H. Zyoud
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 92; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040092 - 24 Nov 2020
Cited by 18 | Viewed by 10295
Abstract
In recent years, concern about certain personal care products and cosmetics suffering from microbial contamination has increased. In this research, we aimed to determine the types and incidence of the most common microorganisms found in unopened/unused personal care and cosmetic products in the [...] Read more.
In recent years, concern about certain personal care products and cosmetics suffering from microbial contamination has increased. In this research, we aimed to determine the types and incidence of the most common microorganisms found in unopened/unused personal care and cosmetic products in the United Arab Emirates (UAE) market. This research involved an analysis of 100 personal care products and cosmetics. For every product, microbial (Candida albicans, Staphylococcusaureus, aerobic mesophilic bacteria, Escherichia coli, yeast and mold, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa) contamination was assessed, and levels were compared with the guidelines used in Europe. Of the total samples, 15% (95% CI: 0.79–22.1) were contaminated by aerobic mesophilic bacteria compared to the maximum microbial limit of 1000 CFU/g. In addition, 13% (95% CI: 0.63–19.7) of the samples were contaminated with yeast and mold compared to the maximum microbial limit of 1000 CFU/g. Of all samples, nine (9%) were contaminated with both aerobic mesophilic bacteria and yeast and mold. However, none of the tested samples were contaminated with Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Candida albicans, or Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Manufacturers of cosmetics and personal care products should be developing and implementing best practices regarding quality control/quality assurance in partnership with government regulators. Additionally, there should be greater control of the quality and safety of this type of product regarding good manufacturing practice (GMP), regulation, research, education, and the reporting of adverse events. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetovigilance: Public Health Perspective)
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<p>Histogram of the estimated aerobic mesophilic bacteria (CFU/g) for cosmetics and personal care products (<span class="html-italic">n</span> = 100). The vertical dashed line shows the microbiological maximum limits according to BS EN ISO 21150:2015.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Histogram of the estimated yeast and mold (CFU/g) for cosmetics and personal care products (<span class="html-italic">n</span> = 100). The vertical dashed line shows the microbiological maximum limits according to BS EN ISO 21150:2015.</p> Full article ">
15 pages, 1138 KiB  
Article
Trending Anti-Aging Peptides
by Marta Salvador Ferreira, Maria Catarina Magalhães, José Manuel Sousa-Lobo and Isabel Filipa Almeida
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 91; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040091 - 14 Nov 2020
Cited by 44 | Viewed by 35883
Abstract
The development of synthetic peptides for skin care dates to the 1980s. The cosmetic industry periodically launches new peptides, as they are promising and appealing active ingredients in the growing and innovative cosmetics market. In this study, trends in the use of peptides [...] Read more.
The development of synthetic peptides for skin care dates to the 1980s. The cosmetic industry periodically launches new peptides, as they are promising and appealing active ingredients in the growing and innovative cosmetics market. In this study, trends in the use of peptides in anti-aging products were analyzed by comparing the composition of the products marketed in 2011 with products launched or reformulated in 2018. The scientific and marketing evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics was also compiled from products’ labels, suppliers’ technical data forms and online scientific databases. The use of peptides in anti-aging cosmetics increased by 7.2%, while the variety and the number of peptide combinations in products have increased by 88.5%. The most used peptides in antiaging cosmetic formulations are, in descending order, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8. In 2011, the majority of peptides were obtained from synthesis, while in 2018, biotechnology processing was the dominant source. This study provides an overview of the market trends regarding the use of peptides in anti-aging products, providing meaningful data for scientists involved in the development of new peptides to identify opportunities for innovation in this area. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2020)
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<p>The prevalence of products containing peptides on anti-aging products marketed in 2011 and 2018. The percentage of products containing only one peptide (1) is represented in green, and the percentage of products containing two or more peptides (2+) is represented in orange. In 2018, there was also a greater diversity of peptides amongst anti-aging cosmetic products, as we were able to identify 29 different peptides versus the 14 peptides identified in 2011 (not illustrated), which represents more than a two-fold increase. Overall, 37 different peptides were used.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Top peptides included in the composition of anti-aging products marketed in 2011 and 2018.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>Sources of peptides.</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>Mechanisms of action for peptides found in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 and 2018.</p> Full article ">
12 pages, 1693 KiB  
Article
Skin Brightening Efficacy of Exosomes Derived from Human Adipose Tissue-Derived Stem/Stromal Cells: A Prospective, Split-Face, Randomized Placebo-Controlled Study
by Byong Seung Cho, Jinah Lee, Yujin Won, Diane I. Duncan, Richard C. Jin, Joon Lee, Hyuck Hoon Kwon, Gyeong-Hun Park, Steven Hoseong Yang, Byung Cheol Park, Kui Young Park, Jinkwon Youn, Junsoo Chae, Minwoong Jung and Yong Weon Yi
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 90; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040090 - 13 Nov 2020
Cited by 26 | Viewed by 14182
Abstract
Studies have shown that stem cells and their derivatives, including conditioned media (CM), have inhibitory effects on skin pigmentation. However, evidence supporting the skin brightening effect of exosomes derived from stem cells is lacking. We studied the antipigmentation effect in vitro and skin [...] Read more.
Studies have shown that stem cells and their derivatives, including conditioned media (CM), have inhibitory effects on skin pigmentation. However, evidence supporting the skin brightening effect of exosomes derived from stem cells is lacking. We studied the antipigmentation effect in vitro and skin brightening efficacy in vivo of exosomes derived from human adipose tissue-derived mesenchymal stem/stromal cells (ASC-exosomes). Exosomes were isolated from the CM of ASCs using the tangential flow filtration method. ASC-exosomes reduced intracellular melanin levels in B16F10 melanoma cells regardless of the presence of the α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH). The skin brightening efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing ASC-exosomes was assessed in human volunteers with hyperpigmentation in a prospective, split-face, double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled study. The ASC-exosome-containing formulation statistically decreased the melanin contents compared to the placebo control. However, the melanin-reduction activity was limited and diminished along with time. A further improvement in efficient transdermal delivery of ASC-exosomes will be helpful for more profound efficacy. In summary, these results suggest that ASC-exosomes can be used as a cosmeceutical for skin brightening. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2020)
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Figure 1

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<p>Characteristics of human adipose tissue-derived mesenchymal stem/stromal cells (ASC-exosomes). (<b>A</b>) A representative Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis (NTA) histogram of ASC-exosomes. (<b>B</b>) Bead-based flow cytometric analysis of ASC-exosomes with antibodies for indicated proteins. ASC-exosomes were captured by Dynabeads coated with antibodies for exosome surface markers including cluster of differentiation 9 (CD9), CD63, or CD81. Then, the phycoerythrin (PE)-conjugated antibodies were reacted with captured ASC-exosomes as indicated. The mouse immunoglobulin G1 (IgG1)-PE was used as an isotype negative control. Gray peaks, PE fluorescence count from isotype control antibody; red peaks, PE fluorescence count from antibodies for indicated proteins (CD9, CD63, and CD81); <span class="html-italic">X</span>-axis, signal intensity of PE. (<b>C</b>) Concentration of calnexin measured by ELISA. <span class="html-italic">n</span> = 4 for ASC-exosomes and <span class="html-italic">n</span> = 1 for cell lysates performed in duplicate.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>No cytotoxicity of ASC-exosomes on B16F10 melanoma cells. The cytotoxic effect of ASC-exosomes was determined by measuring cell viability after incubation of the cells with increasing concentrations of ASC-exosomes for 72 h. Data are presented as the mean ± SD performed in triplicate.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>The antipigmentation effect of ASC-exosomes in the absence and presence of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH). The melanin levels in B16F10 melanoma cells were measured after treatment with ASC-exosomes in the (<b>A</b>) absence or (<b>B</b>) presence of α-MSH for 48 h. Representative data are presented as the mean ± SD from multiple experiments performed in triplicate. (<b>A</b>) * <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05 and ** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.01 vs. the negative control group were considered statistically significant. (<b>B</b>) <sup>#</sup> <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05 and <sup>##</sup> <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.01 vs. the α-MSH control group were considered statistically significant. Arb: arbutin.</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>Clinical evaluation of the skin brightening effect of ASC-exosomes. Melanin levels were measured using a Mexameter on the faces of 21 female volunteers before and 2, 4, and 8 weeks after treatment with a placebo (without ASC-exosomes) or test (with ASC-exosome) formulation twice daily for 8 weeks. (<b>A</b>) Reduction of melanin over time. (<b>B</b>) Reduction of melanin in different age groups. <span class="html-italic">n</span> = 11 for 40s and <span class="html-italic">n</span> = 8 for 50s. * <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05 and ** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.01 vs. placebo-treated area was considered statistically significant. (<b>C</b>) Representative images of two volunteers.</p> Full article ">
8 pages, 721 KiB  
Review
Flavonoids Profile, Taxonomic Data, History of Cosmetic Uses, Anti-Oxidant and Anti-Aging Potential of Alpinia galanga (L.) Willd
by Duangjai Tungmunnithum, Nobuyuki Tanaka, Ayumi Uehara and Tsukasa Iwashina
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 89; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040089 - 11 Nov 2020
Cited by 22 | Viewed by 7425
Abstract
Alpinia galanga is a well-known medicinal plant in Southeast Asia and has been used for a long time as food and medicine. A large number of flavonoid phytochemical compounds have been identified in various parts of this medicinal herb. Flavonoids are commonly known [...] Read more.
Alpinia galanga is a well-known medicinal plant in Southeast Asia and has been used for a long time as food and medicine. A large number of flavonoid phytochemical compounds have been identified in various parts of this medicinal herb. Flavonoids are commonly known as attractive compounds that can be applied to cosmetic or cosmeceutical product development because of their antioxidant, anti-aging and many other potential biological activities. This recent review aims to illustrate and update the taxonomic status as well as the species description that will be helpful for a rigorous identification and authenticate the raw material or living specimen from A. galanga. The flavonoid phytochemical compounds and the bioactivity of this medicinal plant are also provided. The future perspectives and research directions of A. galanga and its flavonoids are pointed out in this study as well. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetopoeia, from the Traditional to the Recent Uses of Plant in Cosmetics)
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Figure 1
<p><span class="html-italic">Alpinia galanga</span> (L.) Willd. (<b>A</b>) Inflorescence. (<b>B</b>) Leafy shoot. (<b>C</b>) Close-up of a single flower. (<b>D</b>) Rhizomes. Scale bars: 5 cm for (<b>A</b>). 1 cm for (<b>C</b>). Pictures by Nobuyuki Tanaka.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Flavonoid phytochemical compounds from <span class="html-italic">A. galanga</span>: (<b>A</b>) Galangin, (<b>B</b>) Kaempferol, (<b>C</b>) Quercetin, (<b>D</b>) Myricetin, (<b>E</b>) Galangin 3-methyl ether, (<b>F</b>) Kaempferide, (<b>G</b>) Isokaempferide, (<b>H</b>) Kumatakenin, (<b>I</b>) Isorhamnetin, (<b>J</b>) Quercetin 3-methyl ether, (<b>K</b>) Pinobanksin 3-acetate, (<b>L</b>) Pinobanksin 3-cinnamate, (<b>M</b>) Alpinone, (<b>N</b>) Pinocembrin, (<b>O</b>) Catechin.</p> Full article ">
15 pages, 2357 KiB  
Communication
Citrate-Coated Platinum Nanoparticles Exhibit a Primary Particle-Size Dependent Effect on Stimulating Melanogenesis in Human Melanocytes
by Shilpi Goenka and Jimmy Toussaint
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 88; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040088 - 9 Nov 2020
Cited by 6 | Viewed by 4598
Abstract
Hypopigmentation disorders due to an underproduction of the pigment melanin by melanocytes cause uneven skin coloration, while in hair follicles they cause grey hair. There is a need for novel materials which can stimulate melanogenesis in the skin and hair for personal care [...] Read more.
Hypopigmentation disorders due to an underproduction of the pigment melanin by melanocytes cause uneven skin coloration, while in hair follicles they cause grey hair. There is a need for novel materials which can stimulate melanogenesis in the skin and hair for personal care use. While titanium dioxide, gold and silver nanoparticles have been extensively used for applications in cosmetic and personal-care products (PCP), the use of relatively inert platinum nanoparticles (PtNPs) has remained underappreciated. PtNPs have been reported to be a mimetic of the enzyme catechol oxidase with small size PtNPs reported to exhibit a higher catechol oxidase activity in a cell-free system, but no testing has been conducted in melanocytes to date. Herein, we have investigated if PtNPs of two sizes (SPtNP: 5 nm; LPtNP: 50 nm) might have an effect on melanogenesis. To this end, we have used MNT-1 human melanoma cells and primary human melanocytes from moderately-pigmented skin (HEMn-MP). Both SPtNP and LPtNP were nontoxic over a concentration range 6.25–25 μg/mL, hence these concentrations were used in further experiments. Both PtNPs stimulated higher extracellular melanin levels than control; SPtNP at concentrations 12.5 and 25 μg/mL significantly stimulated higher levels of extracellular melanin as compared to similar concentrations of LPtNP in MNT-1 cells, in the absence of ROS generation. The effects of PtNPs on melanin secretion were reversible upon removal of PtNPs from the culture medium. The results of primary particle size-specific augmentation of extracellular melanin by SPtNPs were also validated in HEMn-MP cells. Our results thus provide a proof-of-principle that SPtNP might hold potential as a candidate for the treatment of white skin patches, for sunless skin-tanning and for use in anti-greying hair products in cosmetics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2020)
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Figure 1
<p>Particle size characterization by TEM for (<b>A</b>) SPtNP and LPtNP; (<b>B</b>) MNT-1 human melanoma cell viability in the presence of different concentrations of SPtNP and LPtNP for 72 h, as measured by Alamar Blue assay; Data are mean ± SD of at least two independent experiments.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Representative phase-contrast micrographs of (<b>A</b>) MNT-1 human melanoma cells treated with SPtNPs at concentrations (<b>B</b>) 6.25 µg/mL; (<b>C</b>) 12.5 µg/mL; (<b>D</b>) 25 µg/mL and LPtNPs at concentrations (<b>E</b>) 6.25 µg/mL; (<b>F</b>) 12.5 µg/mL; (<b>G</b>) 25 µg/mL for a duration of 72 h; black arrows denote the extended dendrites of the cells. Control group did not show extended dendrites; Images were taken at 20× objective magnification.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>(<b>A</b>) Extracellular and (<b>B</b>) Intracellular melanin levels in cultures of MNT-1 cells treated for 72 h with different concentrations of SPtNP and LPtNP; (one-way ANOVA followed by Tukey’s test: # <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.01 and * <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05 versus ctrl; letter b—<span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.001 versus LPtNP (12.5 µg/mL) and letter a—<span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05 versus LPtNP (25 µg/mL)); (<b>C</b>) Reversibility of the effects of PtNPs on melanogenesis in MNT-1 cells treated with various concentrations of SPtNP and LPtNP for 72 h and further cultured in fresh medium without PtNPs for 72 h; <span>$</span> <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.001 and # <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.01 versus Ctrl; letter x—<span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05 versus LPtNP (6.25 µg/mL), letter y—<span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.001 versus. LPtNP (12.5 µg/mL) and letter z—<span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.001 versus LPtNP (25 µg/mL); All data are mean ± SD of three replicates.</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>(<b>A</b>) cellular tyrosinase activity in MNT-1 human melanoma cells treated for 72 h with different concentrations of SPtNP and LPtNP; (* <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05; One-way ANOVA with Tukey’s post-hoc test); Data are mean ± SD of at least two independent experiments; (<b>B</b>) intracellular ROS generation measured in MNT-1 cells treated with different concentrations of SPtNP and LPtNP; Data are mean ± SD of three replicates.</p> Full article ">Figure 5
<p>(<b>A</b>) Extracellular and (<b>B</b>) Intracellular melanin levels in human epidermal melanocyte from moderately-pigmented skin (HEMn-MP) treated with different concentrations of SPtNP and LPtNP for 48 h; <span>$</span> <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.001, # <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.01 and * <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05 versus Ctrl; letter a—<span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.01 versus. SPtNP (6.25 µg/mL) and letter b—<span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.01 versus LPtNP (12.5 µg/mL); Data are mean ± SD and are combined from at least two independent experiments; (<b>C</b>) Representative phase-contrast photomicrographs showing the morphology of HEMn-MP cells treated with SPtNP and LPtNP over a concentration range 6.25–12.5 µg/mL for 48 h; and quantitation of (<b>D</b>) average dendrite length; Data are mean ± SD and is measured from up to 70 cells from triplicate wells for each treatment group.</p> Full article ">
19 pages, 1779 KiB  
Review
Lecithins from Vegetable, Land, and Marine Animal Sources and Their Potential Applications for Cosmetic, Food, and Pharmaceutical Sectors
by Maria J. Alhajj, Nicolle Montero, Cristhian J. Yarce and Constain H. Salamanca
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 87; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040087 - 9 Nov 2020
Cited by 42 | Viewed by 14823
Abstract
The aim of this work was to review the reported information about the phospholipid composition of lecithins derived from several natural sources (lipids of plant, animal, and marine origin) and describe their main applications for the cosmetic, food, and pharmaceutical sectors. This study [...] Read more.
The aim of this work was to review the reported information about the phospholipid composition of lecithins derived from several natural sources (lipids of plant, animal, and marine origin) and describe their main applications for the cosmetic, food, and pharmaceutical sectors. This study was carried out using specialized search engines and according to the following inclusion criteria: (i) documents published between 2005 and 2020, (ii) sources of lecithins, (iii) phospholipidic composition of lecithins, and (iv) uses and applications of lecithins. Nevertheless, this work is presented as a narrative review. Results of the review indicated that the most studied source of lecithin is soybean, followed by sunflower and egg yolk. Contrarily, only a few numbers of reports focused on lecithins derived from marine animals despite the relevance of this source in association with an even higher composition of phospholipids than in case of those derived from plant sources. Finally, the main applications of lecithins were found to be related to their nutritional aspects and ability as emulsion stabilizers and lipid component of liposomes. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2020)
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Graphical abstract

Graphical abstract
Full article ">Figure 1
<p>The chemical structure and classification of the different types of glycerophospholipid lecithins.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Flowchart showing the information on the search methodology.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>Average composition of phospholipids depending on the origin (lecithin content: fraction of polar lipids in the studied source, PC: Phosphatidylcholine, PE: Phosphatidylethanolamine, PI: Phosphatidylinositol, PA: Phosphatidic acid, PS: Phosphatidylserine, SM: Sphingomyelin, PG: Phosphatidylglycerol).</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>(<b>a</b>) Average composition of phospholipids in the main plant sources. (<b>b</b>) Average phospholipid composition in egg yolk. (<b>c</b>) Average phospholipid composition in milk. (<b>d</b>) Average composition of lecithin phospholipids from marine animals. (PE: Phosphatidylethanolamine, PC: Phosphatidylcholine, SM: Sphingomyelin, PS: Phosphatidylserine, PI: Phosphatidylinositol).</p> Full article ">
17 pages, 2740 KiB  
Article
A Novel Method for the Evaluation of the Long-Term Stability of Cream Formulations Containing Natural Oils
by Deborah Adefunke Adejokun and Kalliopi Dodou
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 86; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040086 - 8 Nov 2020
Cited by 6 | Viewed by 6260
Abstract
This aim of this study is to prepare four novel oil-in-water creams from 100% naturally sourced oil ingredients such as jojoba, baobab and coconut oil, and compare the effect of the oils on the physico-chemical properties of the creams and their short- and [...] Read more.
This aim of this study is to prepare four novel oil-in-water creams from 100% naturally sourced oil ingredients such as jojoba, baobab and coconut oil, and compare the effect of the oils on the physico-chemical properties of the creams and their short- and long-term stability. Four 100 g each oil-in-water active containing creams and their controls (without the active ingredient) were formulated and stored in eight separate glass jars. The short-term stability of the creams was assessed via phase separation resistance, pH, microscopic size analysis, globule size, zeta potential, conductivity and microbial challenge evaluation after 8, 14 and 28 days, under three different storage temperature conditions (4 °C, 25 °C and 40 °C) and at ambient relative humidity. Model creams IA, IB, IIA, and IIB containing 1:1 of jojoba and baobab oil mix, all had good shelf-life or stability at the end of the 28 days after storage at 4 °C, 25 °C and 40 °C, compared to models IIIA, IVA and pairs. The long-term stability of creams stored at 25 °C for 28 days, was subsequently assessed using the Dynamic Vapor Sorption system. Model creams IB, IIB, IA and IIA showed the lowest percentage moisture loss or change in mass during a period of desorption steps. Therefore, the creams containing a mixture of jojoba and baobab oils are capable of retaining moisture easily for an extended period of time when compared to the creams containing jojoba and coconut oil or baobab and coconut oil combinations, thus they were proven to be the best products in terms of stability and quality. The stability ranking of the creams using the novel DVS method was in congruence with the results from the short-term stability experiments. This novel DVS method can, therefore, be generically applied in the cosmetic, food and pharmaceutical industries for the evaluation of the long-term stability of semisolids. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2020)
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Image of newly prepared oil-in-water cream formulation. (<b>b</b>) An active model and its baseline after centrifuging for 15 min at 3000 rpm.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>A graphical representation of the average pH values after 8, 14, 28 days measurements.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>Globule size measurement after 8, 14 and 28 days at 4, 25 and 40 °C.</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>Model IVA under 25 °C storage temperature after 28 days evaluation showing (<b>a</b>) TPC of bacteria &lt;1 CFU/cm<sup>2</sup> (<b>b</b>) TCP of yeast or fungi, no colonies formed.</p> Full article ">Figure 5
<p>Images produced by the dynamic vapour sorption system of sample on 9 mm glass pan after (<b>a</b>) moisture content uptake or absorption and (<b>b</b>) drying phase, at 90% RH and 25 °C steady temperature.</p> Full article ">Figure 6
<p>Graphical illustrations of moisture sorption and desorption kinetics at constant temperature of 25 °C, showing change in mass, DM (red) and % relative humidity, RH (blue) plotted against time/min, DT, of all model creams.</p> Full article ">Figure 6 Cont.
<p>Graphical illustrations of moisture sorption and desorption kinetics at constant temperature of 25 °C, showing change in mass, DM (red) and % relative humidity, RH (blue) plotted against time/min, DT, of all model creams.</p> Full article ">
8 pages, 211 KiB  
Review
Lignin-Based Sunscreens—State-of-the-Art, Prospects and Challenges
by Petri Widsten
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 85; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040085 - 6 Nov 2020
Cited by 22 | Viewed by 6917
Abstract
This review covers the latest developments and challenges in the field of broad-spectrum sunscreens and how sunscreens based on lignin address their requirements in terms of sunlight protection, antioxidants, and preservatives. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Lignins as Natural Active Ingredients for Cosmetics)
12 pages, 2298 KiB  
Review
Cosmetic Potential of Cajanus cajan (L.) Millsp: Botanical Data, Traditional Uses, Phytochemistry and Biological Activities
by Duangjai Tungmunnithum and Christophe Hano
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 84; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040084 - 6 Nov 2020
Cited by 15 | Viewed by 8224
Abstract
Cajanus cajan (aka pigeon pea) is a terrestrial medicinal plant native to Asian and African countries before being introduced to the American continent. This protein-rich legume species, belonging to the Fabaceae family, has been traditionally used to cure various ailments in many traditional [...] Read more.
Cajanus cajan (aka pigeon pea) is a terrestrial medicinal plant native to Asian and African countries before being introduced to the American continent. This protein-rich legume species, belonging to the Fabaceae family, has been traditionally used to cure various ailments in many traditional medicines. Recent works have highlighted it as a rich source of a wide array of flavonoids and other phenolic compounds. The major biological activities that are currently reported on are mainly focused on antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities which are relevant for the cosmetic field. For example, hydroalcoholic extract from C. cajan has been highlighted as a particularly effective antioxidant in various scavenging assays for both reactive oxygen or nitrogen species. One of its constituents, cyanidin-3-monoglucoside, has been reported to suppress inflammatory cytokine production (e.g., TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6 in murine RAW264.7 macrophages). The present review provides an overview on the flavonoids and phenolics from C. cajan as well as their biological activities that can be applied for cosmetic applications. In addition, the botanical data including taxonomic description, flowering season, distribution, synonyms and traditional uses are illustrated, so as to provide an overview of pigeon pea’s cosmetic/cosmeceutical potentials. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetopoeia, from the Traditional to the Recent Uses of Plant in Cosmetics)
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Graphical abstract

Graphical abstract
Full article ">Figure 1
<p><span class="html-italic">Cajanus cajan</span> (L.) Millsp: (<b>A</b>) habitat; (<b>B</b>) leaves; (<b>C</b>) Inflorescence and fruits. The photos were taken by D.T. on 13 January 2019, in North-Eastern Thailand.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Biosynthetic relationship between the main groups of phenolic compounds (flavonoids, stilbenoids and coumarins) accumulated in various organs of pigeon pea. Their biosynthesis starts with the deamination of <span class="html-small-caps">l</span>-phenylalanine by <span class="html-small-caps">l</span>-phenylalanine ammonia lyase (PAL) into <span class="html-italic">trans</span>-cinnamic acid, followed its hydroxylation by cinnamic acid4-hydroxylase (C4H) to form the <span class="html-italic">p</span>-coumaric acid, then the <span class="html-italic">p</span>-coumarate. Coenzyme A ligase (4CL) converts it into <span class="html-italic">p</span>-coumaroyl-CoA, the common precursor of flavonoids, stilbenoids and coumarins. Flavonoids and stilbenoids are formed from the condensation of one molecule of <span class="html-italic">p</span>-coumaroyl-CoA and three molecules of malonyl-CoA but with different cyclization patterns catalyzed by two distinct enzymes: chalcone synthase (CHS) for the flavonoids vs stilbene synthase (STS) for the stilbenoids. The <span class="html-italic">p</span>-coumaroyl-CoA is also the precursor of coumarin biosynthesis starting with the hydroxylation step at position 6′ (<span class="html-italic">ortho</span>) catalyzed by feruloyl-CoA <span class="html-italic">ortho</span>-hydroxylase 1 (F6′H1), then followed by the <span class="html-italic">trans</span> &gt; <span class="html-italic">cis</span> isomerization step of the exocyclic double bond, and a lactonization/cyclization reaction.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>(<b>a</b>) Classical C6-C3-C6 chemical backbone and atom numbering of flavonoids. (<b>b</b>) Structures of the flavonoids identified in pigeon pea as a function of their subgroups: (i) chalcone: 2′,6′-dihydroxy-4′-methoxychalcone; (ii) flavones: apigenin (R<sub>1</sub>=H, R<sub>2</sub>=H, R<sub>3</sub>=H), apigenin-6,8-di-<span class="html-italic">C</span>-<span class="html-small-caps">l</span>-arabinose (R<sub>1</sub>=H, R<sub>2</sub>=<span class="html-small-caps">l</span>-arabinose, R<sub>3</sub>=<span class="html-small-caps">l</span>-arabinose), vitexin (apigenin-8-<span class="html-italic">C</span>-glucoside, R<sub>1</sub>=H, R<sub>2</sub>=H, R<sub>3</sub>=Glucose), isovetixin (apigenin-6-<span class="html-italic">C</span>-glucoside, R<sub>1</sub>=H, R<sub>2</sub>=glucose, R<sub>3</sub>=H), luteolin (R<sub>1</sub>=OH, R<sub>2</sub>=H, R<sub>3</sub>=H) and orientin (luteolin-8-<span class="html-italic">C</span>-glucoside, R<sub>1</sub>=OH, R<sub>2</sub>=H, R<sub>3</sub>=glucose); (iii) flavonols: quercetin (R<sub>1</sub>=H, R<sub>2</sub>=H), quercetin-3-<span class="html-italic">O</span>-glucoside (R<sub>1</sub>=glucose, R<sub>2</sub>=H), quercetin-3-methylether (R<sub>1</sub>=CH<sub>3</sub>, R<sub>2</sub>=H), quercetin 3-<span class="html-italic">O</span>-xylosyl-(1-2)-galactoside (R<sub>1</sub>=xylosyl(1,2)-galactoside, R<sub>2</sub>=H), quercetin-3-<span class="html-italic">O</span>-glucuronide (R<sub>1</sub>=glucuronic acid, R<sub>2</sub>=H) and isorhamnetin (R<sub>1</sub>=H, R<sub>2</sub>=CH<sub>3</sub>); (iv) flavanones: naringenin (R<sub>1</sub>=H, R<sub>2</sub>=OH, R<sub>3</sub>=OH) and pinostrobin (R<sub>1</sub>=OCH<sub>3,</sub> R<sub>2</sub>=H, R<sub>3</sub>=H); (v) isoflavonoids: daidzein (R<sub>1</sub>=H, R<sub>2</sub>=H, R<sub>3</sub>=OH, R<sub>4</sub>=H, R<sub>5</sub>=H), genistein (R<sub>1</sub>=H, R<sub>2</sub>=OH, R<sub>3</sub>=OH, R<sub>4</sub>=H, R<sub>5</sub>=H), 2′-hydroxy-genistein (R<sub>1</sub>=H, R<sub>2</sub>=OH, R<sub>3</sub>=OH, R<sub>4</sub>=OH, R<sub>5</sub>=H), genistein-7-<span class="html-italic">O</span>-glucoside (R<sub>1</sub>=glucose, R<sub>2</sub>=OH, R<sub>3</sub>=OH, R<sub>4</sub>=H, R<sub>5</sub>=H), isogenistein-7-<span class="html-italic">O</span>-glucoside (R<sub>1</sub>=glucose, R<sub>2</sub>=OH, R<sub>3</sub>=H, R<sub>4</sub>=OH, R<sub>5</sub>=H), formononetin ((R<sub>1</sub>=H, R<sub>2</sub>=H, R<sub>3</sub>=OCH<sub>3</sub>, R<sub>4</sub>=H, R<sub>5</sub>=H), biochanin A (R<sub>1</sub>=H, R<sub>2</sub>=OH, R<sub>3</sub>=OCH<sub>3</sub>, R<sub>4</sub>=H, R<sub>5</sub>=H), cajanin (R<sub>1</sub>=CH<sub>3</sub>, R<sub>2</sub>=OH, R<sub>3</sub>=OH, R<sub>4</sub>=OH, R<sub>5</sub>=H), 4′-<span class="html-italic">O</span>-methylcajanin (R<sub>1</sub>=CH<sub>3</sub>, R<sub>2</sub>=OH, R<sub>3</sub>=OCH<sub>3</sub>, R<sub>4</sub>=OH, R<sub>5</sub>=H) and cajanol (R<sub>1</sub>=CH<sub>3</sub>, R<sub>2</sub>=OH, R<sub>3</sub>=OH, R<sub>4</sub>=OCH<sub>3</sub>, R<sub>5</sub>=H); vi) anthocyanins: chrysanthemin (R<sub>1</sub>=H) and peonidin-3-<span class="html-italic">O</span>-glucoside (R<sub>1</sub>=CH<sub>3</sub>). (<b>c</b>) Structures of the prenylated flavonoids identified in pigeon pea as a function of their subgroups: (i) prenylated flavanones: cajaflavanone; (ii) prenylated isoflavonoids: 3′-prenylgenistein, cajaisoflavone, 2′-<span class="html-italic">O</span>-methyl-cajanone and cajanone.</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>(<b>a</b>) Classical C6-C2-C6 chemical backbone and atom numbering of stilbenoids (here <span class="html-italic">trans</span>-stilbenoids are represented). (<b>b</b>) Structures of the different prenylated stilbenoids identified in pigeon pea: cajaninstilbene acid, cajanstilbenoids A-B, cajanusins A-D and longistylin A and C.</p> Full article ">Figure 5
<p>(<b>a</b>) Classical 1,2-benzopyrones chemical backbone and atom numbering of coumarins. (<b>b</b>) Structure of cajanuslactone, a prenylated 4-phenylcoumarin, accumulated in pigeon pea leaves.</p> Full article ">Figure 6
<p>Localization of the flavonoids (blue), stilbenoids (green) and coumarin (red) accumulated in the different organs of pigeon pea. Notes: “*” isoprenylated-genistein was detected in seedlings only; “?” the localization of chrysanthemin and peonidin-3-<span class="html-italic">O</span>-glucoside was not mentioned by the authors.</p> Full article ">
15 pages, 2099 KiB  
Article
Characterization, Stability Assessment, Antioxidant Evaluation and Cell Proliferation Activity of Virgin Coconut Oil-based Nanostructured Lipid Carrier Loaded with Ficus deltoidea Extract
by Nor Azrini Nadiha Azmi, Rosnani Hasham, Farah Diana Ariffin, Amal A. M. Elgharbawy and Hamzah Mohd Salleh
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 83; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040083 - 2 Nov 2020
Cited by 13 | Viewed by 5539
Abstract
In this study, the Ficus deltoidea extract loaded nanostructured lipid carrier was prepared by using the melt emulsification homogenization method. Virgin coconut oil is used as liquid lipid, while glyceryl monostearate is the solid lipid. Particle size, zeta potential, entrapment efficiency, drug loading [...] Read more.
In this study, the Ficus deltoidea extract loaded nanostructured lipid carrier was prepared by using the melt emulsification homogenization method. Virgin coconut oil is used as liquid lipid, while glyceryl monostearate is the solid lipid. Particle size, zeta potential, entrapment efficiency, drug loading and morphology of the obtained nanostructured lipid carrier (NLC) were measured. The size of the nanostructured lipid carrier incorporated with Ficus deltoidea (FDNLC) is 158.0 ± 1.3 nm, with a polydispersity index of 0.15 ± 0.02. The zeta potential obtained is −42.3 ± 1.5 mV. The encapsulation efficiency and active ingredient loading capacity for FDNLC is 87.4% ± 1.3% and 8.5% ± 1.2%, respectively. The shape of FDNLC is almost spherical and the stability assessment showed that the obtained formulation is at least stable for 40 days. When compared with the positive controls, which are Trolox and ascorbic acid, FDNLC shows the highest antioxidant value. Cell proliferation activity study indicates that FDNLC is not toxic to cells, and FDNLC could potentially treat damage by ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2020)
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Nanostructured lipid carrier incorporated with <span class="html-italic">Ficusdeltoidea</span> (FDNLC) and (<b>b</b>) blank dispersions of nanostructured lipid carrier (without <span class="html-italic">Ficus diphenyl tetrazolium bromide</span> deltoidea).</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Effect of the composition of active (FD) on size and PDI of FDNLC. Experiments were done in triplicate (<span class="html-italic">n</span> = 3).</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>The morphology of the nanostructured lipid carrier (NLC) incorporated with FD (FDNLC) from TEM. Magnification × 30, 100.0 kV.</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>Changes of FDNLC particle size during storage at 4 °C, 25 °C and 40 °C throughout 40 days of study. Experiments were done in triplicate (<span class="html-italic">n</span> = 3).</p> Full article ">Figure 5
<p>Changes of PDI of FDNLC during storage at 4 °C, 25 °C and 40 °C throughout 40 days of study. Experiments were done in triplicate (<span class="html-italic">n</span> = 3).</p> Full article ">Figure 6
<p>Percentage of DPPH inhibition by FDNLC and standards (Trolox and ascorbic acid). The experiment was done in triplicate (<span class="html-italic">n</span> = 3).</p> Full article ">Figure 7
<p>Cumulative amount of FD permeated for 24 h using Strat-M as the membrane.</p> Full article ">Figure 8
<p>Cell viability of fibroblast cells (HSF 1184) cultured with increasing concentrations of FDNLC using the MTT assay. Data are presented as mean ± SD (<span class="html-italic">n</span> = 3). Ascorbic acid, 10-ascorbic acid at 10 µg/mL concentration. Control is the cell treated with DMEM only. * <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05 as compared to FDNLC, indicate a statistically significant value.</p> Full article ">Figure 9
<p>The effect of FDNLC on cell viability of fibroblast cells (HSF 1184) after UVB (ultraviolet B) irradiation (15.0 mJ/cm<sup>2</sup>, 320 nm). Data are presented as mean ± SD (<span class="html-italic">n</span> = 3). Ascorbic acid, 10—ascorbic acid at 10 µg/mL concentration. * <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05 as compared to FDNLC, indicate a statistically significant value.</p> Full article ">
10 pages, 2088 KiB  
Article
Characterization of Pro- and Anti-Inflammatory Tissue Factors in Rosacea: A Pilot study
by Elizabeta Lohova, Mara Pilmane, Mara Rone-Kupfere and Janis Kisis
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 82; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040082 - 30 Oct 2020
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 3500
Abstract
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin disease mainly affecting the facial skin. Our aim was to determine the appearance of pro- and anti- inflammatory cytokines in rosacea-affected facial tissue. Materials and Methods: Rosacea tissue were obtained from eight patients (aged 35 to 50 [...] Read more.
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin disease mainly affecting the facial skin. Our aim was to determine the appearance of pro- and anti- inflammatory cytokines in rosacea-affected facial tissue. Materials and Methods: Rosacea tissue were obtained from eight patients (aged 35 to 50 years). The control group (CG) included four facial skin samples (49 to 70 years). Routine staining and immunohistochemistry for IL-1, IL-10, LL-37, HBD-2, and HBD-4 proceeded. Results: Inflammation was observed in all the rosacea samples. A statistically significant difference was seen between epithelial HBD-2 positive cells in comparison to the control. There was a strong positive correlation between HBD-4 in the epithelium and HBD-4 in the connective tissue, IL-10 in the epithelium and IL-1 in the connective tissue, and IL-1 in the epithelium and IL-10 in the connective tissue. Conclusion: Increased levels of IL-10 and decreased levels of IL-1 show the balance between anti- and pro-inflammatory tissue responses. A significant amount of HBD-2 in the epithelium proves its important role in the local immune response of rosacea-affected tissue. The last effect seems to be intensified by the elevated level of LL-37 in the epithelium. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Antioxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds to Be Used in Cosmetics)
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<p>Routine stained micrographs of rosacea-affected facial skin tissues. (<b>a</b>) Note intraepithelial lymphocytes in a 44-year-old female. Hematoxylin and eosin, X 200; (<b>b</b>) inflammation in the subepithelial connective tissue in a 35-year-old female. Hematoxylin and eosin, X 200.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Immunohistochemical micrographs in rosacea-affected tissues and in control samples. (<b>a</b>) Moderate number of IL-1α-positive epitheliocytes and subepithelial cells in a 45-year-old female. IL-1α IMH, X 400; (<b>b</b>) occasional positive structures in epithelium and subepithelial connective tissue of control group in a 49-year-old male. IL-1α IMH, X 400; (<b>c</b>) moderate to numerous IL-10-containing epithelial cells and moderate immunoreactive cells in the connective tissue of a 44-year-old female. IL-10 IMH, X 250; (<b>d</b>) a few positive IL-10 structures in the epithelium and connective tissue of a 66-year-old male. IL-10 IMH, X 200; (<b>e</b>) moderate number of HBD-2-marked immunoreactive positive structures appearing in the epithelium and few to moderate in the subepithelium of a 35-year-old female. HBD-2 IMH, X 400; (<b>f</b>) moderate HBD-2-positive cells in the epithelium and a few positive structures in the connective tissue of a 66-year-old male. HBD-2 IMH, X 400.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>Immunohistochemical micrographs in rosacea-affected tissues and in control samples. (<b>a</b>) Note moderate HBD-4-containing epitheliocytes and in the subepithelial connective tissue of a 32-year-old rosacea-affected male. HBD-4 IMH, X 250; (<b>b</b>) only a few HBD-4-positive structures were displayed in the epithelium and no positive-stained structures in the connective tissue cells of 60-year-old control subject. HBD-4 IMH, X 200.</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>Immunohistochemical micrographs in rosacea-affected tissues and in control samples. (<b>a</b>) Note the moderate LL-37-containing epithelial cells and only connective tissue cells in a 35-year-old female. LL-37 IMH, X 250; (<b>b</b>) a few positive structures in the epithelium and connective tissue of the control group of a 66-year-old male. LL-37 IMH, X 200.</p> Full article ">
15 pages, 2104 KiB  
Article
Bioglea as a Source of Bioactive Ingredients: Chemical and Biological Evaluation
by Marisanna Centini, Mario Roberto Tredici, Natascia Biondi, Anna Buonocore, Roberto Maffei Facino and Cecilia Anselmi
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 81; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040081 - 27 Oct 2020
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 3733
Abstract
This study focused on bioglea in thermal material sampled at Saturnia spa (Tuscany, Italy). Bioglea is the term used to define the thermal plankton consisting of biogenic substances that have been investigated little from the chemical and biological points of view. Bioglea is [...] Read more.
This study focused on bioglea in thermal material sampled at Saturnia spa (Tuscany, Italy). Bioglea is the term used to define the thermal plankton consisting of biogenic substances that have been investigated little from the chemical and biological points of view. Bioglea is mainly formed of cyanobacteria, particularly from the Oscillatoriales subsection, and it seems to have an important role in the maturation of thermal mud for the development of organic matter. This cyanobacteria-dominated community develops in a large outdoor pool at the spa, where the spring water is collected, over the sediments, with matter floating at the surface. Throughout the year, the cyanobacterial species of bioglea were the same, but their relative abundance changed significantly. For chemical characterization an extractive method and several analytical techniques (HPLC, GC-MS, SPME) were used. We also studied the radical scavenging activity using in vitro tests (DPPH, ORAC, ABTS). We found various groups of compounds: saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, hydroxyl acids, alcohols, phenols, amino acids. Many of the compounds have already been identified in the mud, particularly the lipid component. SPME indicated several hydrocarbons (C11–C17) and long-chain alcohols (C12–C16). The qualitative composition of volatile substances identified in bioglea was very similar to that of the mud previously analysed. These results contribute to our knowledge on thermal photosynthetic community and its possible exploitation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2020)
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<p>Cyanobacteria species composition. (<b>a</b>) <span class="html-italic">Oscillatoria</span> sp. from a floating mat; (<b>b</b>) green film dominated by <span class="html-italic">Spirulina</span> cf. <span class="html-italic">labyrinthiformis</span> and <span class="html-italic">Leptolyngbya</span> sp. a brown filament of <span class="html-italic">Oscillatoria</span> sp. is also visible; (<b>c</b>) Diatoms (<span class="html-italic">Pinnularia</span> sp.) growing on the surface of the mud in maturation.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>HPLC chromatogram of bioglea <span class="html-italic">in toto</span>. The peak with interesting UV absorption at 300 nm was highlighted.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>Absoption UV spectra of hydrophilic extracts of surface and bottom bioglea.</p> Full article ">
10 pages, 1295 KiB  
Article
Retinol Has a Skin Dehydrating Effect That Can Be Improved by a Mixture of Water-Soluble Polysaccharides
by James V. Gruber, Venera Stojkoska and Jed Riemer
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 80; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040080 - 27 Oct 2020
Cited by 67 | Viewed by 9961
Abstract
It is common that retinoids used in skincare can cause skin dryness, irritation and redness which is a complaint for the use of these molecules in skincare formulations. Objective: to investigate the influence of a mixture of polysaccharides to improve retinol-based formulations in [...] Read more.
It is common that retinoids used in skincare can cause skin dryness, irritation and redness which is a complaint for the use of these molecules in skincare formulations. Objective: to investigate the influence of a mixture of polysaccharides to improve retinol-based formulations in a 12-day inner volar forearm study. Methods: in total, 22 inner volar forearms were treated over a 12-day topical application of a Placebo formulation containing 0.5% retinol verses a formulation containing 0.5% retinol and 3.0% of a complex of polysaccharides. Application occurred 2X/day in the morning and evening. Skin testing included barrier disruption, erythema, and skin hydration. After a 3-day regression of treatment, skin hydration was measured again. Results: the 0.5% retinol Placebo formulation showed a significant impact on skin dehydration compared to untreated control or polysaccharide-treated areas. The formulation containing retinol and 3.0% of the polysaccharides, maintained skin hydration levels comparable to the untreated control. Neither formulation had a statistically significant impact on skin erythema or barrier disruption. After the 3-day regression, the polysaccharide mixture continued to demonstrate significant moisturization benefits superior to the untreated and active-treated sites. Conclusions: a mixture of polysaccharides was able to mitigate the short-term skin drying effects of retinol and continued to moisturize the skin after a 3-Day regression. Full article
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Graphical abstract

Graphical abstract
Full article ">Figure 1
<p>Arrangement of three treatment sites on each arm. Control measurements were taken near the wrist and near the elbow as to generate control measurements.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Results of Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) measurements (g/m<sup>2</sup>/h). Dark grey is the untreated control, black is the retinol placebo-treated and light grey is the polysaccharide active-treated sites. N = 22, <span class="html-italic">p</span> ≤ 0.05.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>Results of erythema measurements. Dark grey is the untreated control, black is the retinol placebo-treated and light grey is the polysaccharide active-treated sites. N = 22, <span class="html-italic">p</span> ≤ 0.05.</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>Results of skin hydration (µSiemans) measurements. Dark grey is the untreated control, black is the retinol placebo-treated and light grey is the polysaccharide active-treated sites. N = 22, <span class="html-italic">p</span> ≤ 0.05.</p> Full article ">Figure 5
<p>Results of 3-day skin hydration regression study. Dark grey is the untreated control site, black is the retinol placebo-treated site and light grey is the polysaccharide active-treated site. N = 22, <span class="html-italic">p</span> ≤ 0.05).</p> Full article ">
19 pages, 3982 KiB  
Article
A New Benchmark to Determine What Healthy Western Skin Looks Like in Terms of Biodiversity Using Standardised Methodology
by Christopher Wallen-Russell and Sam Wallen-Russell
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 79; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040079 - 16 Oct 2020
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 4209
Abstract
A significant loss of microbial biodiversity on the skin has been linked to an increased prevalence of skin problems in the western world. The primary objective of this study was to obtain a benchmark value for the microbial diversity found on healthy western [...] Read more.
A significant loss of microbial biodiversity on the skin has been linked to an increased prevalence of skin problems in the western world. The primary objective of this study was to obtain a benchmark value for the microbial diversity found on healthy western skin, using the Chao1 index. This benchmark was used to update our 2017 skin health measuring mechanism in line with standardised methodology. It used 50 human participants from Graz in Austria and at a read depth of 6600 sequences, we found the average Chao1 diversity to be ~180, with upper and lower quartiles of ~208 and ~150, respectively. Previous work with a larger sample size was unsatisfactory to use as a benchmark because different diversity indices and evaluation methodologies were used. The Medical University of Graz used the most recent version of the Chao1 index to obtain diversity results. Because of this study, we can transfer other benchmarks of skin microbiome diversity to the methodology used in this work from our 2017 study, such as “unhealthy western skin” and “caveman/perfect skin”. This could aid with the diagnostic assessment of susceptibility to cutaneous conditions or diseases and treatment. We also investigated the effect of sex and age, which are two known skin microbiome affecting factors. Although no statistical significance is seen for sex- and age-related changes in diversity, there appear to be changes related to both. Our preliminary results (10 in each of the five age groups) show adults aged 28–37 have the highest average diversity, and adults aged 48–57 have the lowest average diversity. In future work, this could be improved by obtaining benchmark diversity values from a larger sample size for any age, sex, body site, and area of residence, to which subjects can be compared. These improvements could help to investigate the ultimate question regarding which environmental factors in the western world are the main cause of the huge rise in skin problems. This could lead to future restrictions of certain synthetic chemicals or products found to be particularly harmful to the skin. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2020)
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<p>The mean diversity benchmark value for “healthy western skin” as found in this study is ~180. Alpha diversity boxplots using Chao1 showing the new benchmark of diversity found in this study (red) and comparing it with the results from our previous work (blue). There are no significant changes in alpha diversity between the studies. The black lines indicate average diversity. Samples were rarefied to 6600, so plots were visually comparable to others in this study.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Alpha diversity boxplots using the Shannon diversity index showing the new benchmark of diversity found in this study (red) and comparing it with the results from our previous work (blue). There are no significant changes in alpha diversity between the studies. The black lines indicate average diversity. Samples were rarefied to 6600 sequence reads.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>Beta diversity principal coordinates analysis (PCoA) plots were created for (<b>a</b>) Chao and (<b>b</b>) Bray–Curtis comparing the current study (red) with our previous study (blue). Samples were rarefied to 6600 sequence reads.</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>Alpha and beta diversity comparing female (red) and male (blue) participants. Alpha diversity boxplots were created for (<b>a</b>) Chao1 and (<b>b</b>) Shannon indices of female and male participants. There are no significant changes in Alpha diversity between the sexes. The black lines indicate average diversity. Samples were rarefied to 6600 reads, so plots were comparable with others in this study. PCoA plots were created for (<b>c</b>) Chao and (<b>d</b>) Bray–Curtis of the female and male participants. There is no significant grouping between the sexes, but the controls and the product control (“no”–grey) are grouped separately.</p> Full article ">Figure 5
<p>Redundancy analysis (RDA) plot of female and male participants. “No” (grey) indicates the controls. The figure shows significant differences between the sexes. Female, male, and controls are clustering separately. The overlapping of controls with a female sample indicates a low number of reads in the female sample.</p> Full article ">Figure 6
<p>Alpha and beta diversity of the 50 human participants split into 10 per group, 5 males and 5 females. Alpha diversity boxplots were created for (<b>a</b>) Chao1 and (<b>b</b>) Shannon indices (Group 1, 18–27 years; Group 2, 28–37 years; Group 3, 38–47 years; Group 4, 48–57 years; and Group 5, 58–70 years) where no significant differences were observed. Samples were rarefied to 6600 reads, so plots were comparable with others in this study. The black lines indicate average diversity. Beta diversity PCoA plots were created for (<b>c</b>) Chao1 and (<b>d</b>) Bray–Curtis of the different age groups, as explained above. There is no significant grouping between the age groups, but the controls (“co”, red) and the product control (“pro”, black) are grouped separately.</p> Full article ">Figure 7
<p>RDA plot of different age groups (Group 1,18–27 years; Group 2, 28–37 years; Group 3, 38–47 years; Group 4, 48–57 years; and Group 5, 58–70 years). “Co” (red) are the controls and “pro” (black) the product control. The figure shows that age Groups 1–4 are clustering, whereas Group 5 is separate. The controls are clustered together, and the product control is different from the other samples. The overlapping of controls with Group 5 samples indicates samples with a low number of reads.</p> Full article ">Figure 8
<p>Graph showing the combined benchmarks taken from our previous work [<a href="#B34-cosmetics-07-00079" class="html-bibr">34</a>]. This graph formed the basis for the skin health measuring mechanism, with benchmark values of diversity for a range of different states of health on the skin. For an explanation of each please see our previous work.</p> Full article ">Figure 9
<p>Graph showing how to obtain a multiplication factor between ”healthy” and ”unhealthy” western skin diversity, to be used in transferring the remaining benchmarks from our 2017 work to the new skin health measuring mechanism.</p> Full article ">Figure 10
<p>Boxplots showing the transferred Chao1 diversity benchmarks for “caveman/perfect skin” (blue), “rural healthy” (orange), and “unhealthy/diseased western” (yellow). The “healthy western skin” (grey) is taken directly from the data found in this study in <a href="#sec3dot1-cosmetics-07-00079" class="html-sec">Section 3.1</a>, and the other benchmarks were created using the multiplication factors in <a href="#cosmetics-07-00079-t001" class="html-table">Table 1</a>. As all data in this study was rarefied to 6600 sequences, this is the read depth these benchmarks would apply at; at higher numbers of sequences, the diversity would change. This is a rough example of how we would transfer the benchmarks across, and future work will do this accurately, considering other factors.</p> Full article ">Figure A1
<p>PCoA plots were created for (<b>a</b>) Chao and (<b>b</b>) Bray–Curtis for controls of the study compared with sample data from human participants. It shows that samples, product control, and controls are separate; (<b>c</b>) Rarefaction on RSV level, showing the sequencing potential of all samples based on age groups.</p> Full article ">
12 pages, 1965 KiB  
Article
A New Ex Vivo Model to Evaluate the Hair Protective Effect of a Biomimetic Exopolysaccharide against Water Pollution
by Claire Tubia, Alfonso Fernández-Botello, Jan Dupont, Eni Gómez, Jérôme Desroches, Joan Attia and Estelle Loing
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 78; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040078 - 4 Oct 2020
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 4327
Abstract
As an external appendage, hair is exposed to multiple stresses of different origins such as particles and gases in air, or heavy metals and chemicals in water. So far, little research has addressed the impact of water pollution on hair. The present study [...] Read more.
As an external appendage, hair is exposed to multiple stresses of different origins such as particles and gases in air, or heavy metals and chemicals in water. So far, little research has addressed the impact of water pollution on hair. The present study describes a new ex vivo model that allowed us to document the adverse effects of water pollutants on the structure of hair proteins, as well as the protective potential of active cosmetic ingredients derived from a biomimetic exopolysaccharide (EPS). The impact of water pollution was evaluated on hair from a Caucasian donor repeatedly immersed in heavy metal-containing water. Heavy metal retention in and on hair was then quantified using Inductively Coupled Plasma Spectrometry (ICP/MS). The adverse effects of heavy metals on the internal structure of hair and its prevention by the EPS were assessed through measurement of keratin birefringence. Notably, the method allows the monitoring of the organization of keratin fibers and therefore the initial change on it in order to modulate the global damage in the hair. Results revealed an increasing amount of lead, cadmium and copper, following multiple exposures to polluted water. In parallel, the structure of keratin was also altered with exposures. However, heavy metal-induced keratin fiber damage could be prevented in the presence of the tested EPS, avoiding more drastic hair problems, such as lack of shine, or decrease in strength, due to damage accumulation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2020)
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<p>Example of Xpolar measurement and data analysis. (<b>a</b>) Kmax values experimentally measured. (<b>b</b>) Representation of the fitted image, by replication of the fitted curve Kth(x) along the y direction. (<b>c</b>) Fitted theoretical curve (red) versus the averaged transverse Kmax variations (black), computed from the raw data.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Repetitive exposure to polluted water increases heavy metal content on and in hair fibers. (*** <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.001). (<b>a</b>) Copper content is expressed in parts per million. (<b>b</b>) Cadmium and lead content are expressed in parts per billion.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>Representative photography of hair section analyzed with K-PROBE<sup>®</sup> polarimetric scanner. Kmax experimental images (top panels) and the corresponding fitted image (bottom panels) obtained for a hair diameter of approximately 60 µm, following immersion in heavy metal-containing water without (middle panels) and with EPS pre-treatment (right panels), compared to control (left panels).</p> Full article ">Figure 3 Cont.
<p>Representative photography of hair section analyzed with K-PROBE<sup>®</sup> polarimetric scanner. Kmax experimental images (top panels) and the corresponding fitted image (bottom panels) obtained for a hair diameter of approximately 60 µm, following immersion in heavy metal-containing water without (middle panels) and with EPS pre-treatment (right panels), compared to control (left panels).</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>(<b>a</b>) Birefringence values, as measured on a total of 41 hairs for control, unprotected, and EPS-protected hair (0.1 g/mL). Blue cross: birefringence of one hair averaged from two measures. Red circle: average birefringence of 41 hairs. Black line: ± one standard deviation of the birefringence of 41 hairs. The <span class="html-italic">p</span> values are computed using one sided Student’s t-test for independent samples with unequal variances. (<b>b</b>) Mean birefringence value and standard deviation for each condition (* <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05 versus control).</p> Full article ">
17 pages, 1711 KiB  
Review
Rosmarinus officinalis L. (Rosemary): An Ancient Plant with Uses in Personal Healthcare and Cosmetics
by Francisco José González-Minero, Luis Bravo-Díaz and Antonio Ayala-Gómez
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 77; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040077 - 3 Oct 2020
Cited by 60 | Viewed by 31980
Abstract
This work is a bibliographical review of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) that focuses on the application of derivatives of this plant for cosmetic products, an application which has been recognized and valued since Ancient Egyptian times. Rosemary is a plant of Mediterranean [...] Read more.
This work is a bibliographical review of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) that focuses on the application of derivatives of this plant for cosmetic products, an application which has been recognized and valued since Ancient Egyptian times. Rosemary is a plant of Mediterranean origin that has been distributed throughout different areas of the world. It has many medicinal properties, and its extracts have been used (mainly orally) in folk medicine. It belongs to the Labiatae family, which contains several genera—such as Salvia, Lavandula, and Thymus—that are commonly used in cosmetics, due to their high prevalence of antioxidant molecules. Rosemary is a perennial shrub that grows in the wild or is cultivated. It has glandular hairs that emit fragrant volatile essential oils (mainly monoterpenes) in response to drought conditions in the Mediterranean climate. It also contains diterpenes such as carnosic acid and other polyphenolic molecules. Herein, the botanical and ecological characteristics of the plant are discussed, as well as the main bioactive compounds found in its volatile essential oil and in leaf extracts. Afterward, we review the applications of rosemary in cosmetics, considering its preservative power, the kinds of products in which it is used, and its toxicological safety, as well as its current uses or future applications in topical preparations, according to recent and ongoing studies. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Discovering and Exploiting Natural Cosmetic Materials and Their Functional Mechanisms)
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<p>(<b>A</b>) Non-glandular trichome; (<b>B</b>) peltate octocellular glandular trichome, with a large secretory cavity; (<b>C</b>) stomata; (<b>D</b>) capitate glandular trichome.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Geographic distribution of <span class="html-italic">Rosmarinus officinalis</span> according to the Global Biodiversity Information Facility (GBIF) [<a href="#B27-cosmetics-07-00077" class="html-bibr">27</a>]. For a better understanding of the graphic, see text. GBIF is an international network and research infrastructure funded by the world’s governments, aimed at providing anyone, anywhere, with open access to data about all types of life on Earth.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>Changes in the peltate glandular trichomes of rosemary. Cb, basal epidermal cell; Csb and Cs, secretory cells; CsB, great cavity or secretory head; Epi, epidermis. Bars: 25 µm. The cuticle is not seen in Csb. Image courtesy of [<a href="#B34-cosmetics-07-00077" class="html-bibr">34</a>].</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>(<b>A</b>) <span class="html-italic">Rosmarinus officinalis</span>; (<b>B</b>) <span class="html-italic">Thymus mastichina</span>; (<b>C</b>) <span class="html-italic">Lavandula pedunculata</span>; (<b>D</b>) <span class="html-italic">Salvia verbenaca</span>; (<b>E</b>) <span class="html-italic">Pistacia lentiscus</span>; (<b>F</b>) <span class="html-italic">Cistus ladanifer</span>; (<b>G</b>) <span class="html-italic">Myrtus communis</span>. Photos courtesy of Dr. Rafael González-Albaladejo.</p> Full article ">Figure 5
<p>Structures of the main bioactive molecules in rosemary: (<b>A</b>) 1.8 cineole; (<b>B</b>) camphor; (<b>C</b>) verbenone; (<b>D</b>) β-caryophyllene; (<b>E</b>) carnosol; (<b>F</b>) oleanolic acid; (<b>G</b>) α-amyrin; (<b>H</b>) ursolic acid; (<b>I</b>) genkwanin; (<b>J</b>) rosmarinic acid; (<b>K</b>) caffeic acid.</p> Full article ">Figure 6
<p>Mechanism of lipid peroxidation. (<b>A</b>) Unsaturated lipid; (<b>B</b>) radical lipid; (<b>C</b>) lipid peroxyl radical; (<b>D</b>) lipid peroxide.</p> Full article ">Figure 7
<p>General oxidation reaction mechanism of a phenolic compound.</p> Full article ">Figure 8
<p>Reduction of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone.</p> Full article ">
14 pages, 1002 KiB  
Article
Skin Protective Activity of LactoSporin-the Extracellular Metabolite from Bacillus Coagulans MTCC 5856
by Muhammed Majeed, Shaheen Majeed, Kalyanam Nagabhushanam, Lincy Lawrence, Sivakumar Arumugam and Lakshmi Mundkur
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 76; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040076 - 27 Sep 2020
Cited by 19 | Viewed by 9866
Abstract
Background: Probiotics and their products are increasingly used in skincare in recent years. Postbiotics are defined as any substance derived through the metabolic activity of a probiotic microorganism, which exerts a direct or indirect beneficial effect on the host. The extracellular metabolites of [...] Read more.
Background: Probiotics and their products are increasingly used in skincare in recent years. Postbiotics are defined as any substance derived through the metabolic activity of a probiotic microorganism, which exerts a direct or indirect beneficial effect on the host. The extracellular metabolites of probiotic bacteria have antimicrobial activities, protect against acne, and improve skin condition. We studied skin protective activities of the extracellular metabolite (LactoSporin) of a spore-forming probiotic Bacillus coagulans MTCC 5856 in vitro. Methods: LactoSporin was evaluated for antioxidant activity by free radical scavenging activity and reactive oxygen quenching activity in human dermal fibroblast cells. Protection of fibroblasts from UV-induced apoptosis and cell death was studied by flow cytometry and neutral red uptake assays. Enzyme inhibition assays were carried out for collagenase, Elastase, and Hyaluronidase. Gene expression studies were carried out using polymerase chain reaction. Results: LactoSporin showed antioxidant activity and was found to protect skin cells from UV-induced apoptosis and cell death. LactoSporin inhibited collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase activity and upregulated the expression of hyaluronan synthase, transforming growth factor and epidermal growth factor, which are associated with extracellular matrix integrity. Conclusions: These results suggest LactoSporin is a skin protective postbiotic with wide application in cosmetic formulations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Antioxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds to Be Used in Cosmetics)
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<p>Effect of various concentrations of LactoSporin on (<b>A</b>) 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) free radical scavenging activity and (<b>B</b>) Cell viability at different concentrations of LactoSporin (<b>C</b>) Intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) induced by UV-A, (<b>D</b>) ROS scavenging activity. Data are represented as Mean ±SD, n = 3. UE: Unexposed cells.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>(<b>A</b>). Percentage protection of LactoSporin against UV-A- and UV-B-induced cell death, (<b>B</b>). UV-B irradiated BALB/3T3 cells, treated with 0.5% LactoSporin, stained with Crystal violet (20×). Data are represented as Mean±SD, n = 3.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>Protective effect of LactoSporin on UV-B-induced apoptosis. (<b>A</b>). Dot plot and histogram of UV-B exposed cells treated with LactoSporin, (<b>B</b>) Percentage reduction of apoptotic cells after LactoSporin treatment. Results are expressed as Mean ± SD (n = 3).</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>Effect of various concentrations of LactoSporin in preserving the extracellular membrane layer. (<b>A</b>) Percentage inhibition of collagenase activity; (<b>B</b>) Percentage inhibition of elastase activity; (<b>C</b>) Hyaluronidase enzyme inhibition; (<b>D</b>) Percentage inhibition of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) and (<b>E</b>) Gene expression study of transforming growth factor (TGF)-β, hyaluronic acid synthase (HAS1), and epidermal growth factor (EGF). Data are represented as Mean ± SD, n = 3.</p> Full article ">
16 pages, 969 KiB  
Review
Applications of Natural, Semi-Synthetic, and Synthetic Polymers in Cosmetic Formulations
by Thais F. R. Alves, Margreet Morsink, Fernando Batain, Marco V. Chaud, Taline Almeida, Dayane A. Fernandes, Classius F. da Silva, Eliana B. Souto and Patricia Severino
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 75; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040075 - 25 Sep 2020
Cited by 93 | Viewed by 36830
Abstract
Cosmetics composed of synthetic and/or semi-synthetic polymers, associated or not with natural polymers, exhibit a dashing design, with thermal and chemo-sensitive properties. Cosmetic polymers are also used for the preparation of nanoparticles for the delivery of, e.g., fragrances, with the purpose to modify [...] Read more.
Cosmetics composed of synthetic and/or semi-synthetic polymers, associated or not with natural polymers, exhibit a dashing design, with thermal and chemo-sensitive properties. Cosmetic polymers are also used for the preparation of nanoparticles for the delivery of, e.g., fragrances, with the purpose to modify their release profile and also reducing the risk of evaporation. Besides, other cosmetically active nutrients, dermal permeation enhancers, have also been loaded into nanoparticles to improve their bioactivities on the skin. The use of natural polymers in cosmetic formulations is of particular relevance because of their biocompatible, safe, and eco-friendly character. These formulations are highly attractive and marketable to consumers, and are suitable for a plethora of applications, including make-up, skin, and hair care, and as modifiers and stabilizers. In this review, natural synthetic, semi-synthetic, and synthetic polymers are discussed considering their properties for cosmetic applications. Their uses in conventional and novel formulations are also presented. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2020)
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<p>Main types of polymers natural, semi-synthetic, and synthetic polymers applied in cosmetics.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Results of an overview of original publications about polymers applied in cosmetic formulations (source: Web of Science database by Clarivate Analytics).</p> Full article ">
11 pages, 3346 KiB  
Article
Monitoring of Natural Pigments in Henna and Jagua Tattoos for Fake Detection
by Laura Rubio, Marta Lores and Carmen Garcia-Jares
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 74; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040074 - 24 Sep 2020
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 5418
Abstract
Temporary tattoos are a popular alternative to permanent ones. Some of them use natural pigments such as lawsone in the famous henna tattoos. Recently, jagua tattoos, whose main ingredients are genipin and geniposide, have emerged as an interesting option. This study was conducted [...] Read more.
Temporary tattoos are a popular alternative to permanent ones. Some of them use natural pigments such as lawsone in the famous henna tattoos. Recently, jagua tattoos, whose main ingredients are genipin and geniposide, have emerged as an interesting option. This study was conducted to identify the presence and concentration of henna and jagua active ingredients (lawsone; genipin and geniposide, respectively) in commercial tattoo samples. Since natural pigments are often mixed with additives such as p-phenylenediamine (PPD) in the case of henna, PPD has been included in the study. Green and simple extraction methods based on vortex or ultrasound-assisted techniques have been tested. To determine the compounds of interest liquid chromatography (LC) with diode-array detection (DAD) has been applied; and PPD absence was confirmed by LC-QTOF (quadrupole-time of flight tandem mass spectrometry). This work demonstrated that only one out of 14 henna samples analyzed contained lawsone. For jaguas, genipin was found in all samples, while geniposide only in two. Therefore, quality control analysis on these semi-permanent tattoos is considered necessary to detect these ingredients in commercial mixtures, as well as to uncover possible fraud in products sold as natural henna. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2020)
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Graphical abstract

Graphical abstract
Full article ">Figure 1
<p>Sample preparation procedure.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Chromatogram (λ = 250 nm) and UV-spectra comparison of a mixture of the standards obtained by HPLC–DAD.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>Mass spectrum of PPD.</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>HPLC-DAD profiles of henna and jagua sample. (<b>a</b>) Henna right sample. (<b>b</b>) Henna fake sample. (<b>c</b>) Jagua sample only with genipin. (<b>d</b>) Jagua sample with the two targeted compounds.</p> Full article ">
15 pages, 2918 KiB  
Article
Effect of Addition of PVA/PG to Oil-in-Water Nanoemulsion Kojic Monooleate Formulation on Droplet Size: Three-Factors Response Surface Optimization and Characterization
by Nur Farzana Jaslina, Nur Hana Faujan, Rosfarizan Mohamad and Siti Efliza Ashari
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 73; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040073 - 23 Sep 2020
Cited by 8 | Viewed by 4253
Abstract
An oil in water (O/W) nanoemulsion formulation containing kojic monooleate (KMO) in thin film system was developed. Response surface methodology (RSM) was used to optimize and analyzed the effect of three variables, namely concentration of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) (20–30% w/w), [...] Read more.
An oil in water (O/W) nanoemulsion formulation containing kojic monooleate (KMO) in thin film system was developed. Response surface methodology (RSM) was used to optimize and analyzed the effect of three variables, namely concentration of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) (20–30% w/w), concentration of propylene glycol (PG) (1–10% w/w), and shear rate of high shear homogenizer (3000–9000 rpm) on droplet size as a response, while other compositions remained constant such as KMO (10.0% w/w), Tween 80 (3.19% w/w), castor oil (3.74% w/w), xanthan gum (0.70% w/w), and germall plus (0.7% w/w, PG (and) diazolidinyl urea (and) iodopropynyl butylcarbamate). The optimized KMO nanoemulsion formulation with desirable criteria was PVA (27.61% w/w) and PG (1.05% w/w), and shear rate (8656.17 rpm) with a predicted droplet size (110.21 nm) and actual droplet size (105.93 nm) with a residual standard error (RSE) of less than 2.0% was obtained. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) showed that the fitness of the quadratic polynomial fit the experimental data with a F-value of 65.30, p–value of p < 0.0001, and a non-significant lack-of-fit. The optimized KMO formulation shows the desired criteria of the thin film system and the physicochemical properties (Zeta potential −37.37 mV, PDI 0.13, pH 4.74) and stability at four different conditions indicate its suitability for cosmeceutical applications. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2020)
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<p>Three-dimensional surface graphs showing the effect of percentage PVA and percentage PG on droplet size; shear rate was kept constant.</p> Full article ">Figure 2
<p>Three-dimensional surface graphs showing the effect of percentage PVA and shear rate on droplet size; percentage PG was kept constant.</p> Full article ">Figure 3
<p>Three-dimensional surface graphs showing the effect of percentage PG and shear rate on droplet size; percentage PVA was kept constant.</p> Full article ">Figure 4
<p>The TEM images of the KMO formulation from the 100 nm view.</p> Full article ">Figure 5
<p>Graph of droplet size (nm) observed for 28 days under four different conditions (SE; sunlight exposure).</p> Full article ">Figure 6
<p>Graph of 1/r<sup>2</sup> vs. storage time.</p> Full article ">Figure 7
<p>Graph of r<sup>3</sup> vs. storage time (seconds).</p> Full article ">
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