Cosmetics

13 pages, 1516 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Development of an Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, and Photoprotective Phytocosmetic from Discarded Agave sisalana Perrine Roots

by Guilherme dos Santos Mazo, Julia Amanda Rodrigues Fracasso, Luísa Taynara Silvério da Costa, Valdecir Farias Ximenes, Natália Alves Zoppe, Amanda Martins Viel, Lucas Pires Guarnier, Beatriz de Castro Silva, Luan Victor Coelho de Almeida and Lucinéia dos Santos

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 104; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030104 - 20 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1269

Abstract

The primary source of hard fiber globally is Agave sisalana Perrine, also known as sisal. In areas where sisal is grown, the roots of the plant are usually left in the field after it has stopped producing, which leads to soil degradation and [...] Read more.

The primary source of hard fiber globally is Agave sisalana Perrine, also known as sisal. In areas where sisal is grown, the roots of the plant are usually left in the field after it has stopped producing, which leads to soil degradation and decreased sisal productivity. It is, therefore, critical to find alternatives to reuse this waste. This study explores the potential use of sisal waste in the cosmetic industry by incorporating a hydroethanolic extract (HER) into a cream–gel formulation, taking advantage of the plant’s recognized ethnopharmacological value. The study involves analyzing the extract’s phytochemical composition (flavonoids) and evaluating its cytotoxicity. Subsequently, the antioxidant and antiglycation activities of the extract and cream–gel are evaluated, as well as ex vivo ocular toxicity, photoprotective activity, and preliminary stability analyses. The HER extract showed a flavonoid composition (catechin, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, and chrysin) and maintained cell viability above 70% throughout all time points analyzed in the MTT assay. Furthermore, the extract and the formulation demonstrated proven antioxidant and antiglycation activities. The cream–gel’s UVB and UVA protection effectiveness with the HER was comparable to that of synthetic UVB/UVA sunscreens, with the samples proving nonirritating and stable. In conclusion, the extract has a significant presence of flavonoids, and the cream–gel developed with it did not present cytotoxicity and met the stability requirements, indicating phytocosmetic potential with antioxidant, antiglycation, and photoprotective properties. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)

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Chromatograms of (A) reference flavonoids and (B) HER fingerprint obtained by high-performance liquid chromatography. (1) rutin; (2) morin; (3) kaempferol; (4) isorhamnetin; (5) fisetin; (7) chrysin; and (8) catechin. Full article ">Figure 2
Mean ± SD of cell viability of the NC—negative control (physiologic solution 0.9%), PC—positive control (2% Tween 80%), and the HER (100 µg/mL, 200 µg/mL, 400 µg/mL, 800 µg/mL, and 1600 µg/mL) by the MTT method. A one-way ANOVA followed by Tukey’s post hoc test was performed. An asterisk (*) indicates if there is a significant difference (p < 0.05) from the negative control. Full article ">Figure 3
Mean ± SD of values in % of antioxidant activity in the (A) DPPH and (B) Lipoperoxidation tests after the following treatments: NC—negative control (physiologic solution 0.9%), PC—positive control (quercetin solution 300 µg/mL), HER (50 µg/mL, 100 µg/mL, 200 µg/mL, 400 µg/mL, and 600 µg/mL), and the cream–gel with HER (C1—200 µg/mL, C2—400 µg/mL, and C3—600 µg/mL). A one-way ANOVA followed by Tukey’s post hoc test was performed. An asterisk (*) indicates if there is a significant difference (p < 0.05) from the negative control. Full article ">Figure 4
Mean ± SD of the values in % of anti-aging activity through (A) BSA/GLU and (B) BSA/MGO after the following treatments: NC—negative control (physiologic solution 0.9%), PC—positive control (quercetin 300 μg/mL), HER (50 µg/mL, 100 µg/mL, 200 µg/mL, 400 µg/mL, and 600 µg/mL), and the cream–gel with HER (C1—200 µg/mL, C2—400 µg/mL, and C3—600 µg/mL). A one-way ANOVA followed by Tukey’s post hoc test was performed. An asterisk (*) indicates if there is a significant difference (p < 0.05) from the negative control. Full article ">

14 pages, 5038 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Establishing the Inhibition of the Serine Protease Plasmin as a Skin Anti-Aging Pathway

by Remo Campiche, Dominik Imfeld, Chennakesava Cuddapah, Leithe Budel and Mathias Gempeler

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 103; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030103 - 19 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1011

Abstract

Plasmin is a serine protease induced by UV-irradiation in skin that contributes to inflammation. We showed that plasmin is upregulated in photo-exposed facial skin and that this correlates with increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Plasmin activity upregulates downstream pathways such as pro-inflammatory cytokines [...] Read more.

Plasmin is a serine protease induced by UV-irradiation in skin that contributes to inflammation. We showed that plasmin is upregulated in photo-exposed facial skin and that this correlates with increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Plasmin activity upregulates downstream pathways such as pro-inflammatory cytokines and matrix-metalloproteinases (MMPs). In addition, the plasminogen system modulates cutaneous melanogenesis. In this study, we investigated potential skin-aging effects of plasmin with a dual inhibitor of plasmin and its activator urokinase (uPA). We established a range of in vitro and ex vivo assays to investigate inflammation, MMP-9 activation, and collagen modulation, and the melanogenesis modulation activity of plasmin. A specific plasmin inhibitor, Amidinobenzyl Benzylsulfonyl D-Seryl Homophenylalaninamide Acetate (ABSHA), was used in these assays to downregulate these effects. We found that ABSHA was able to down-regulate UV-irradiation-induced MMP-9 expression, and subsequent collagen IV degradation, ex vivo. In addition, the increased melanin synthesis in epidermal melanocytes was reduced significantly by ABSHA. Furthermore, dermal fibroblasts treated with the plasmin inhibitor showed increased collagen I synthesis. We further investigated these effects in a two-month, monocentric, placebo-controlled human study on female Chinese volunteers. We found a significant increase in collagen density by ultrasound measurement and an increase in elasticity by cutometer assessment in the group using a formulation consisting of a 10 ppm ABSHA solution. This resulted in decreased wrinkle volumes on both the forehead and crow’s feet as shown by Primos CR. Looking at age spots, there was a decrease in overall ITA° and melanin density as well as in the total age spot area. Our results establish plasmin as a skin-aging enzyme. Using specific inhibitors against plasmin shows promise against age-induced skin conditions. Full article

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13 pages, 2802 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Exploring the Use of Natural Ingredients for the Protection of Textured Hair from Ultraviolet Radiation: An In Vitro Study

by Ewa Markiewicz and Olusola C. Idowu

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 102; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030102 - 19 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1130

Abstract

Human hair is characterized by significant diversity, which is dictated by the individual genetic makeup. It is estimated that up to 70% of the world’s population has textured hair, with a significant proportion also living in areas with high exposure to ultraviolet radiation [...] Read more.

Human hair is characterized by significant diversity, which is dictated by the individual genetic makeup. It is estimated that up to 70% of the world’s population has textured hair, with a significant proportion also living in areas with high exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR). This highlights the unique requirements for textured hair care products that can protect hair shafts from the harmful effects of the environment whilst enhancing the natural features of the fibre. In this study, we investigated the UV-protective effects of hair conditioner formulated from active ingredients, mangiferin, ferulic acid and naringin. The analysis of UV-irradiated straight and textured hair was performed by measurements of hair thickness and darkness, the uptake of the fluorescent dye, spectral absorbance of keratin extracts, ATR-FTIR and SEM. We found that textured hair was more sensitive to UVR-induced changes than straight hair, with the primary molecular targets represented by chemical groups in keratins. Pre-treatment of the hair with conditioner had protective effects against structural damage and oxidative stress caused by UVR. These data indicate the importance of the personalized approach to hair research and the formulation of hair care products tailored to the individual demands of textured hair types. Full article

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UV-absorbing and antioxidant capacities of natural ingredients of novel hair conditioner. (a) Spectral absorbance profiles of 0.005% (w/v) mangiferin, ferulic acid and naringin; (b) total antioxidant capacities (TAC) of the ingredients at 1% (w/v) concentration. Error bars are mean ± SEM, n = 3, with statistically significant outputs ** where p < 0.01 in one-way ANOVA with post-hoc Tukey HSD test. Full article ">Figure 2
UV-protective capacities of the conditioner. (a) Spectral absorbance profile of 0.1% conditioner; (b) TAC of hair keratin extracts prepared from control, UV-irradiated and conditioner-treated hair, demonstrating the increased antioxidant effect of the conditioner on curly hair. Error bars are mean ± SEM, n = 3, with statistically significant outputs ** where p < 0.01 in one-way ANOVA with post-hoc Tukey HSD test. Full article ">Figure 3
Protective capacities of the conditioner against structural damage of hair fibre by UVR. (a) A decrease in hair thickness after exposure to increasing doses of UVR, particularly prominent in curly hair, is prevented by pre-treatment of both hair types by the conditioner; (b) bleaching of the hair caused by UVR is also more pronounced in curly hair, where pre-treatment of both hair types with the conditioner prevents the loss of hair darkness due to irradiation. Error bars are mean ± SD, n = 3, with statistically significant outputs ** where p < 0.01 in one-way ANOVA with post-hoc Tukey HSD test; (c) light microscopy images of hair samples (10× lens magnification, scale bar is 100 μm). Full article ">Figure 4
Enhanced penetration of harmful molecules to damaged textured hair is prevented by the conditioner. (a) Uptake of rhodamine B after irradiation of hair with increasing doses of UV is significantly increased in curly hair compared to straight hair. Both hair types are resistant to rhodamine B after pre-treatment with the conditioner before UV irradiation. Error bars are mean ± SD, n = 3, with statistically significant outputs ** where p < 0.01 in a one-way ANOVA with post-hoc Tukey HSD test; (b) fluorescence microscopy images of hair samples (10× lens magnification, scale bar is 100 μm). Full article ">Figure 5
Spectral absorbance profiles of alkaline extracts from straight and curly hair with a peak of absorbance at 210 nm corresponding to keratins. (a) Control hair; (b) UV-irradiated hair; (c) hair pre-treated with the conditioner before irradiation. Full article ">Figure 6
ATR-FTIR spectra of hair samples with defined absorption bands related to specific molecules and chemical bonds. The main absorption bands were detected as hydroxyl groups (3287–3281 cm−1), alkane groups (2925–2924 cm−1), lipid acyl CH2 groups (2858–2853 cm−1), amide I (1639–1636 cm−1), amide II (1532–1529 cm−1) and amide III (1241 cm−1) corresponding to keratins and S-OR esters (857–853 cm−1). Alterations in the molecular arrangement and quantities of the chemical bonds are reflected by differences in absorbance and band displacement. (a) Control hair; (b) UV-irradiated hair; (c) hair pre-treated with the conditioner before irradiation. Full article ">Figure 7
Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) images of straight and textured hair after exposure to UV irradiation alone or with pre-treatment with the conditioner. The images were recorded at SEM magnifications of 200×, 1.00 kx and 5.00 kx. Scale bars are 200 μm for the upper panel, 50 μm for the middle panel and 10 μm for the lower panel. Full article ">

14 pages, 1734 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Effects of CE Ferulic^® Combined with Microneedling in the Treatment of Pigmentary Disorders: A Monocentric, Split Face, Comparative Study

by Ilaria Proietti, Stefania Guida, Agnieszka Dybala, Alessandra Spagnoli and Concetta Potenza

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 101; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030101 - 17 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1097

Abstract

Pigmentary disorders of the face present a significant challenge in dermatology, impacting the confidence and well-being of affected individuals. Various approaches have been developed to address these concerns, including microneedling and topical vitamin C products. This study involved 15 participants undergoing three treatment [...] Read more.

Pigmentary disorders of the face present a significant challenge in dermatology, impacting the confidence and well-being of affected individuals. Various approaches have been developed to address these concerns, including microneedling and topical vitamin C products. This study involved 15 participants undergoing three treatment sessions over 12 weeks, assessing the efficacy of a combined microneedling and CE Ferulic^® serum approach. Clinical evaluation and statistical analysis were conducted before and after the intervention. Significant improvement of akin hyperpigmentation was observed, particularly on the side treated with microneedling and CE Ferulic^® serum compared to microneedling alone. The integrated treatment protocol demonstrated a synergistic effect in improving skin texture and appearance. Integrated treatment protocols, such as combining microneedling with CE Ferulic^® serum, show promise in managing facial hyperpigmentation disorders. Further research with larger cohorts is warranted to validate these findings and optimize treatment strategies, highlighting the potential of combined therapeutic modalities for achieving optimal clinical outcomes in pigmentary disorder management. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Advances in Medical and Cosmetic Dermatology)

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Boxplot containing median values (horizontal line), interquartile range (box length), highest and smallest values without outliers (whiskers) of the Griffiths Photonumeric Scale per group (Side) at each visit (baseline, after 12 weeks). Full article ">Figure 2
Case 1. Female patient, 49 years old. Morphometric pictures (OBERV 520x). (A) Pictures captured at baseline visit and after 12 weeks, showing marked improvement of hyperpigmentation and redness. (B) Pictures comparing left and right sides of patient’s face, showing more improvement of skin quality on the side with microneedling and CE Ferulic application compared to the side with microneedling treatment only. Full article ">Figure 3
Case 2. Female patient, 53 years old. (A) Pictures captured at baseline visit and after 12 weeks, showing marked improvement of hyperpigmentation and redness. (B) Pictures comparing left and right sides of patient’s face, showing the skin quality on the side with microneedling and CE Ferulic application compared to the side with microneedling treatment only. Full article ">Figure 4
Case 3. Female patient, 52 years old. (A) Pictures captured at baseline visit and after 12 weeks, showing marked improvement of hyperpigmentation. (B) Pictures comparing left and right sides of patient’s face, showing the skin quality on the side with microneedling and CE Ferulic application compared to the side with microneedling treatment only. Full article ">

11 pages, 7113 KiB

Open AccessArticle

A Split-Face Comparison of Novel Microneedle Patch versus Botulinum Toxin-A and Microneedle Patch for Improvement in Undereye Skin Texture

by Polen Te, Jitlada Meephansan, Punyaphat Sirithanabadeekul, Purit Pureesrisak, Kittipong Tantisantisom, Sattra Thongma, Yossawat Rayanasukha, Punyanuch Adulyaritthikul and Paisan Khanchaitit

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 100; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030100 - 17 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1279

Abstract

(1) Background: The emergence of microneedle patch technology and its development as a transdermal drug delivery platform have shown proven results in improving skin texture and appearance. This study was conducted to determine the efficacy of the microneedle patch (MNP)-only cosmesis of undereye [...] Read more.

(1) Background: The emergence of microneedle patch technology and its development as a transdermal drug delivery platform have shown proven results in improving skin texture and appearance. This study was conducted to determine the efficacy of the microneedle patch (MNP)-only cosmesis of undereye skin texture and wrinkles against patch cosmesis with diluted botulinum toxin-A. (2) Methods: A total of 23 Thai females volunteered for this prospective clinical trial. Each participant was treated according to a split-face design, with the application of diluted botulinum toxin-A through MNP technology to the right undereye and a normal saline MNP application to the left undereye. Test areas were recorded at baseline and 2, 4, 8, 12, and 16 weeks after the initial treatment. (3) Results: Botulinum toxin-A was successfully delivered to the skin by MNP technology. After the initial treatment, these novel transdermal drug delivery patches significantly improved infraorbital hollowness at week 8 and wrinkles at week 16. In addition, the skin surface was markedly enhanced, with no adverse effects observed during the trial. (4) Conclusions: Novel MNPs are an effective and safe technology for use in the management of undereye skin aging. Combination treatment with botulinum toxin-A-impregnated devices gave a higher patient satisfaction than MNPs alone. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Delivery Systems for Dermatologic and Dermocosmetics Products)

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(a) Top view and (b) side view of the scanning electron microscope images of the four-point star-shaped microneedle array situated on the fabric substrate. (Inset) An optical image showing the height of the microneedle array. (c) Schematic structure and components of the microneedle array patch. (d) The setup for microneedle penetration depth evaluation with polymeric films and the optical images of a polymeric film in each layer after microneedle array insertion. Full article ">Figure 2
(a) The active ingredient or solution delivery mechanism of the four-point star-shaped microneedle array fabricated on the fabric substrate. (b) The microneedle patch was applied to each undereye area. (c) The solution was pushed through the syringe connected with the reservoir of the microneedle patch identified by the arrow in the schematic structure of the microneedle patch that was used in this clinical study. Full article ">Figure 3
Merz infraorbital hollow resting scale assessed by a dermatologist; P* significant result in the within-subject group (botulinum toxin-A+ MNP, MNP+ saline); P** significant result in the between-subject group. Full article ">Figure 4
Scientific Assessment Scale of Skin Quality: (a) skin surface roughness; (b) wrinkles; P* significant result in the within-subject group (botulinum toxin-A+ MNP, MNP+ Saline); P** significant result in the between-subject group. Full article ">Figure 5
Patients’ satisfaction score by mean change. Full article ">Figure 6
Photograph of subjects’ undereye skin (right: MNP + botulinum toxin-A; left: MNP + normal saline). Full article ">Figure 7
Photograph of subjects’ undereye skin (right: MNP + botulinum Toxin-A; left: MNP + normal saline). Full article ">

22 pages, 2992 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Thermophilic Composting as a Means to Evaluate the Biodegradability of Polymers Used in Cosmetic Formulations

by Timothy W. Gillece, Helen K. Gerardi, Roger L. McMullen, William T. Thompson and Daniel H. Brown

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 99; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030099 - 16 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1287

Abstract

In the last decade, a growing demand for sustainable cosmetic ingredients has yielded numerous biodegradation protocols. While OECD (Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development) aquatic assays are suitable for water-borne chemicals, it is crucial for the personal care industry to consider the persistence [...] Read more.

In the last decade, a growing demand for sustainable cosmetic ingredients has yielded numerous biodegradation protocols. While OECD (Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development) aquatic assays are suitable for water-borne chemicals, it is crucial for the personal care industry to consider the persistence of plastics in soil, compost, and municipal sludge. Adopting this cradle-to-grave holistic approach would strengthen product appeal while increasing the accuracy and ethical integrity of green product labeling. The aim of our study was to employ quantitative CO₂ detection and thermophilic composting protocols specified in ASTM D5338, along with pass level criteria outlined in ASTM D6400, to assess the mineralization of plastics commonly formulated into personal care products. Our results indicate that many cellulose ethers, cationic guars, starches, proteins, and labile polyesters demonstrate satisfactory disintegration, biodegradation, and seed germination rates to secure an ASTM D6400 compostability claim. By contrast, macromolecules designed with carbon–carbon backbones resisted acceptable mineralization in composting experiments, advocating that unadulterated municipal compost lacks the microbial diversity to enzymatically digest many synthetically derived resins. Additionally, polymers that demonstrated acceptable biodegradability in internal and published OECD aquatic studies, including chitosan and polyvinyl alcohol, exhibited limited respiration in local municipal compost; hence, untested correlations between aquatic, soil, and compost testing outcomes should never be assumed. Full article

(This article belongs to the Collection Editorial Board Members' Collection Series: "Sustainability in Materials and Processes in Cosmetic Science")

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Radish (left), turnip (center), and barley (right) plants grown in neat compost for 15 days. Full article ">Figure 2
Effect of intrinsic compost carbon content on the average measured biodegradability rates of xanthan gum powder (sd = ±5.7) and xanthan gum slugs (sd = ±7.2) in mature municipal compost; and xanthan gum powder in activated vermiculite (sd = ±3.9). The red dashed line demarcates 100% absolute biodegradability, in which biodegradation ≫ 100% suggests contributions from positive priming. Full article ">Figure 3
Molecular structure of κ-carrageenan. Full article ">Figure 4
Chemical conversion of (a) chitin to (b) chitosan. Full article ">Figure 5
Molecular structure of CGG. Full article ">Figure 6
Chemical conversion of (a) cellulose into the sodium salt of (b) CMC. Full article ">Figure 7
Growth rate of seedlings in neat compost. Terrestrial safety studies indicated that barley grows more rapidly in neat compost than radish and turnip plants. The 95% confidence intervals (dotted lines) and mean ± 10% bands (solid lines) bracket the mean shoot height values as a function of time for each seed type. As per guidelines in ASTM D6400, the seedlings were germinated in a 1:2 (w/w) mixture of composted plastics and neat compost. The green, blue, and red bracketing colors are used to clearly distinguish the three data sets. Full article ">Figure 8
Comparison of 28-day biodegradation rates using aquatic and ASTM D-5338 composting protocols. The following OECD aquatic methods were applied: 301D (low MW cellulose = SigmaCell Type 20; high MW cellulose = α-cellulose; CMC-2; PVA); 302B (CGG-1; CGG-2); and 306 (guar gum; PCL). See References 23, 24, and 26 for details of each OECD protocol. Full article ">

9 pages, 3743 KiB

Open AccessCommunication

Skin Care Function of Lactoferrin Was Characterized Using Recombinant Human Epidermal Model

by Tong Xie, Wu Qiao, Tinghan Jia and Ken Kaku

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 98; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030098 - 15 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1420

Abstract

The effect of lactoferrin on skin was simulated using a recombinant human epidermal model. The anti-inflammatory and soothing effect of lactoferrin was verified using IL-1α and TSLP Elisa assay. The effects of lactoferrin on the expression of related genes and proteins were detected [...] Read more.

The effect of lactoferrin on skin was simulated using a recombinant human epidermal model. The anti-inflammatory and soothing effect of lactoferrin was verified using IL-1α and TSLP Elisa assay. The effects of lactoferrin on the expression of related genes and proteins were detected using qPCR and immunofluorescence staining. The results showed that lactoferrin can effectively enhance the Transepidermal Electrical Resistance (TEER) and inhibit the secretion of inflammatory cytokine IL-1α and TSLP. In addition, it was confirmed using qPCR that lactoferrin had high expression levels on AQP3, FLG, IVL, CLDN1 and HAS1 genes. Immunofluorescence staining confirmed that lactoferrin had high fluorescence intensity and expression in AQP3, Filaggrin and Involucrin. The results showed that lactoferrin improved the skin barrier at higher than 1.5 mg/mL. At the same time, it can have anti-inflammatory and moisturizing effects. This study provides a strong basis for the application of lactoferrin in cosmetics and daily chemical products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue In Vitro Skin Models for Skin Function Assessment: Applications in Cosmetics and Dermocosmetics)

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14 pages, 1996 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Exploring the In Vitro Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, and Cytotoxic Properties of Kaempferia galanga Linn. Rhizome Extracts for Cosmeceutical Formulations

by Panikchar Wichayapreechar, Ranit Charoenjittichai, Anchalee Prasansuklab, Maria Pilar Vinardell and Wandee Rungseevijitprapa

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 97; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030097 - 13 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1054

Abstract

Kaempferia galanga Linn. (KG), a member of the family Zingiberaceae, is native to India, and commonly found in China, Indonesia, and Thailand. It has been used as a food condiment, folk medicine, and to relieve skin diseases due to its biological activities. However, [...] Read more.

Kaempferia galanga Linn. (KG), a member of the family Zingiberaceae, is native to India, and commonly found in China, Indonesia, and Thailand. It has been used as a food condiment, folk medicine, and to relieve skin diseases due to its biological activities. However, its anti-aging effect has not yet been investigated. In this study, the rhizome of Kaempferia galanga Linn was extracted with solvents of different polarities (deionized water, absolute ethanol, ethyl acetate, and hexane). Phytochemical screening assay, total flavonoid and total phenolic contents, antioxidant activity (DPPH^•, FRAP, ABTS ^+• assay), anti-aging activity (anti-collagenase, anti-elastase), and cell cytotoxicity on human dermal fibroblasts were investigated. The outcomes revealed that the extraction in highly polar solvents resulted in a high extract yield. Flavonoids, phenolic, and terpenoid compounds were detected in KG extracts using all extraction solvents. However, deionized water as a solvent exhibited the lowest level of flavonoids and phenolics, as compared to the other solvents. The highest total flavonoid and phenolic contents were achieved through extraction with absolute ethanol and ethyl acetate, respectively. Interestingly, the extract obtained with absolute ethanol exhibited the most potent antioxidant activities (the IC₅₀ value of DPPH^• was 0.612 mg/mL, the FRAP value was 62.79 mmol of Fe²⁺/g of extract, and TEAC value was 9.21 mg TE/g of extract in ABTS^+• assay) and anti-aging properties (the percentages of collagenase inhibitory and elastase were 71.83%, and 66.35%, respectively). Regarding cell cytotoxicity, both KG extracts obtained with deionized water and absolute ethanol showed lower toxicity on human dermal fibroblasts compared to those obtained with ethyl acetate and hexane. Ethanol-based KG extract demonstrated a good antioxidant, anti-aging capacity and is considered safe for cosmeceutical products focused on anti-aging applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds - 2nd Edition)

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Kaempferia galanga Linn. (KG). (A) Rhizome of KG; (B) small pieces of KG rhizome; (C) finely powdered KG. Full article ">Figure 2
Percentage of extraction yield. Kaempferia galanga Linn. (KG) extracted by maceration method with different polarity solvents. Full article ">Figure 3
Collagenase inhibitory activity of KG extracts obtained with solvents of different polarities. The final concentration of the tested samples was 0.5 mg/mL. The values are expressed as the mean ± SD in triplicate experiments. Different alphabet letters indicate a statistically significant difference between solvents (p < 0.05). Full article ">Figure 4
Elastase inhibitory activity of KG extracts obtained with solvents of different polarities. The final concentration of the tested samples was 0.5 mg/mL. The values are expressed as the mean ± SD in triplicate experiments. Different alphabet letters indicate a statistically significant difference between solvents (p < 0.05). Full article ">Figure 5
The cytotoxicity of KG extracts obtained with solvents of different polarity on human fibroblast cells (WS-1). The values are expressed as the mean ± SD in triplicate experiments. The asterisk mark (*) indicates a statistically significant difference at p < 0.05 compared to the control group. Different alphabet letters indicate a statistically significant difference at p < 0.05 among the different solvents. Full article ">

16 pages, 1401 KiB

Open AccessSystematic Review

How Do Artificial Intelligence, Social Media Platforms and Photo Editing Applications Influence Cosmetic Surgery Choices—Literature Systematic Review and Prospective Study

by Malek Benamor, Stefana Luca, Jed Bouguila, Oxana Madalina Grosu, Bianca Maria Avadani, Dan Cristian Moraru and Mihaela Pertea

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 96; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030096 - 11 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1678

Abstract

Background: In recent years, social media and AI have indirectly taken control of our daily lives. We bring attention to the impact that social networks, photo-editing applications, and artificial intelligence have on potential patients when they are looking for a surgeon for a [...] Read more.

Background: In recent years, social media and AI have indirectly taken control of our daily lives. We bring attention to the impact that social networks, photo-editing applications, and artificial intelligence have on potential patients when they are looking for a surgeon for a possible cosmetic surgery, as well as the criteria they consider in relation to the interest in the use of the internet by surgeons. Methods: A systematic review of the past 10 years (2014–2024) was conducted following the PRISMA structure. PubMed and Google Scholar were searched for articles containing the following terms: plastic/esthetic surgery, social media, AI, filters, dysmorphia. All articles were saved using Zotero software version 6.0.37. We reported a prospective study including a 141 patients applying for esthetic surgical interventions in the time interval between February and October 2021. It also involved 44 esthetic surgeons from Tunisian clinics. The influence of social media was evaluated using questionnaires made based on the literature. Results: Using the keyword search, 71 articles were found. A total of 19 articles were selected for data extraction. It was observed that in the last 3 years, the literature has focused on photo-editing and AI in the cosmetic surgery field. A total of 107 patients chose their surgeon based on a surgeon’s social medias rather than their reputation and their website. Conclusions: The increased advancements of the internet have clearly influenced decision making in the field of cosmetic surgery. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Treatment for Anti-aging and Rejuvenation)

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13 pages, 1655 KiB

Open AccessArticle

A Mn (II) Quinoline Complex (4QMn) Mitigates Oxidative Damage Induced by Ultraviolet Radiation and Protein Aggregation

by Marián Merino, Sonia González, Mª Paz Clares, Enrique García-España and José L. Mullor

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 95; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030095 - 6 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1022

Abstract

Solar radiation, specifically ultraviolet radiation (UVR), is one of the harmful external factors that affect the integrity of the skin upon sun overexposure. Its detrimental effects include skin aging (photoaging), pigmentation disorders, and skin cancer. Upon UVR exposure, a cascade of different cellular [...] Read more.

Solar radiation, specifically ultraviolet radiation (UVR), is one of the harmful external factors that affect the integrity of the skin upon sun overexposure. Its detrimental effects include skin aging (photoaging), pigmentation disorders, and skin cancer. Upon UVR exposure, a cascade of different cellular responses is initiated, giving rise to inflammatory processes, oxidative stress, protein misfolding, and DNA lesions, among other effects. Therefore, there is a growing need to explore and characterize new compounds for safeguarding the skin from solar radiation-induced damage. In this work, we analyze the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory capacities of the Mn (II) quinone complex (4QMn) in different cellular models and human skin explants. Importantly, our results suggest that 4QMn is able to ameliorate the oxidative damage produced by protein aggregation by reducing ROS levels, mitochondrial ROS (MitoROS), and DNA oxidative damage (8OH-dG) in a protein accumulation model. These findings suggest that the 4QMn compound could mitigate the deleterious effects of different sources of oxidative damage. Full article

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Ball–and–stick representation of chemical structure of 4Q compound (A) and 4Q coordinated with manganese, 4QMn (B). Full article ">Figure 2
Bar graph showing ROS levels generated in (A) HNEK cells, (B) NHDF cells, and (C) human skin explants after UVA radiation. Statistical analysis refers to UVA-irradiated cells or skin. ** p < 0.01, *** p < 0.001 and **** p < 0.0001. Full article ">Figure 3
Bar graph showing CAT, NRF2, and SOD1 gene expression levels generated for (A–C) HNEK cells, (D–F) NHDF cells, and (G–I) human skin explants after UVA radiation. Statistical analysis referred to UVA-irradiated cells or skin. * p < 0.05, *** p < 0.001, **** p < 0.0001. Full article ">Figure 4
Bar graph showing IL6, IL8, and TNFα gene expression levels generated for (A–C) HNEK cells, (D–F) NHDF cells, and (G–I) human skin explants after UVA radiation. Statistical analysis referred to UVA-irradiated cells or skin. * p < 0.05, ** p < 0.01, *** p < 0.001, **** p < 0.0001. Full article ">Figure 5
Bar graph showing (A) ROS, (B) MitoROS, and (C) 8 OH-dG levels in HEK293T cells. 121Q—transfected cells producing protein aggregation; 4QMn—cells treated with 4QMn compound. Statistical analysis referred to non-treated transfected cells (121Q). * p < 0.05, ** p < 0.01, *** p < 0.001, **** p < 0.0001. Full article ">

15 pages, 3839 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Chemical Profile and Antioxidant and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activity of Chamaemelum nobile L. Green Extracts

by Luciana Maria Polcaro, Antonietta Cerulli, Francesco Montella, Elena Ciaglia, Milena Masullo and Sonia Piacente

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 94; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030094 - 6 Jun 2024

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1224

Abstract

The request for skin-whitening agents and bioactive principles able to control hyperpigmentation disorders is continuously growing. Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is used as a remedy for skin diseases, but little is known about the ability of Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) [...] Read more.

The request for skin-whitening agents and bioactive principles able to control hyperpigmentation disorders is continuously growing. Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is used as a remedy for skin diseases, but little is known about the ability of Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) to act as a skin-whitening agent. With the aim to investigate antioxidant and lightening potential, fresh aerial parts of C. nobile were extracted by maceration, ultrasound-assisted extraction, and solid–liquid dynamic (SLDE-Naviglio) extraction using EtOH/H₂O mixtures. Moreover, 32 metabolites (flavonoids, sesquiterpenoids, amides, and polar fatty acids) were identified by liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry. Principal component analysis revealed how the extract EtOH/H₂O 50% (Naviglio and long maceration), along with the extract EtOH/H₂O 60% (maceration) were richest in flavonoids. All extracts were tested by TEAC and DPPH assays, and to determine their in vitro antioxidant activity, the DHR 123 probe–intracellular ROS assay in HaCaT cells, for some extracts, was performed. Moreover, their ability to exert a whitening effect was tested by analyzing their tyrosinase inhibitory activity. The quantitative determination of apigenin, known as a natural tyrosinase inhibitor, was performed by LC-ESI/QTrap/MS/MS using the multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) method. These results are promising for selecting an extraction method to obtain a sustainable product rich in bioactives. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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UPLC-HRMS base peak profile (in positive ion mode) of C. nobile EtOH/H2O 50% extract obtained by long maceration. Full article ">Figure 2
Principal component analysis of specialized metabolites in C. nobile extracts obtained by UPLC-HRMS targeted analysis: (A) PCA score scatter plot; (B) PCA loading plot. Full article ">Figure 3
Total phenolics content assay result of green extracts of C. nobile. Full article ">Figure 4
TEAC (A) and DPPH (B) assays of “green” extracts of C. nobile. Full article ">Figure 5
Effect of extracts of C. nobile (10 μg/mL) and apigenin (1.35 μg/mL) on ROS formation in HaCaT cells stimulated with H2O2. The data were analyzed using one-way ANOVA followed by Dunnett’s test as the post test. (*): p < 0.05; (**): p < 0.01; (****): p < 0.0001. Full article ">Figure 6
Tyrosinase inhibition assay of green extracts of C. nobile. Full article ">

16 pages, 1855 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Electrospray-Mangiferin Nanoparticles Gel: A Promising Agent for Sun and Age Defense

by Neungreuthai Chomchoei, Pimporn Leelapornpisid, Pratchaya Tipduangta, Jakkapan Sirithunyalug, Busaban Sirithunyalug and Pawitrabhorn Samutrtai

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 93; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030093 - 5 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1105

Abstract

UV irradiation causes skin damage and aging. This study aimed to develop and evaluate a gel formulation loaded with electrospray mangiferin nanoparticles (MNPs) as a double-action product with photoprotective and anti-aging properties. The MNPs were prepared using the electrospraying technique and loaded in [...] Read more.

UV irradiation causes skin damage and aging. This study aimed to develop and evaluate a gel formulation loaded with electrospray mangiferin nanoparticles (MNPs) as a double-action product with photoprotective and anti-aging properties. The MNPs were prepared using the electrospraying technique and loaded in a gel formulation. The MNP formulation was evaluated regarding its physical appearance, viscosity, in vitro sun protection factor (SPF), and in vitro anti-oxidant activity and compared with a formulation containing purified mangiferin (PM) at the same concentration of 0.2% (w/v). Moreover, both formulations were analyzed for their in vitro release and ex vivo skin permeation. The MNP formulation had a considerably higher SPF value than the PM formulation at the same concentration (20.43 ± 0.13 and 12.19 ± 0.27, respectively). The in vitro anti-oxidant activities of the formulations with MNPs and PM were 74.47 ± 2.19% and 80.52 ± 1.05%, respectively. The MNP formulation showed potent photoprotective and anti-oxidation activities with acceptable stability in all parameters under accelerated conditions (4 ± 2 °C 48 h/45 ± 2 °C 48 h for 6 cycles) and after 30 days of storage under various conditions. The release profile data of the MNPs showed a controlled release pattern at 76.97 ± 0.06% at 480 min. Furthermore, after using a Franz diffusion cell for 8 h, the MNP formulation showed the release of 37.01 ± 2.61% and 22.39 ± 1.59% of mangiferin content in the skin layer as stratum corneum and viable epidermis, respectively. Therefore, the overall results demonstrate that electrospray MNPs in a gel formulation are suitable for skin and constitute a promising delivery system for mangiferin in developing cosmetics and cosmeceutical products with good potential. Full article

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UV-VIS spectrum of (a) purified mangiferin and (b) mangiferin standard. Full article ">Figure 2
Physical appearance of formulations F1 (loaded 0.2% PM) and F2 (loaded 0.2% MNPs) before (day 0) and after stability test; accelerated and 30-day storage under various conditions (day 30). RT = room temperature. Full article ">Figure 3
Stability study of formulations F1 (loaded 0.2% PM) and F2 (loaded 0.2% MNPs) for in vitro anti-oxidant activity (a), and in vitro SPF (b) parameters compared with day 0. All data are presented as mean ± SD based on three measurements (n = 3). * denotes results that significantly differ from day 0 according to t-test statistics (p < 0.05). Full article ">Figure 4
Mangiferin release profile of formulations F1 (loaded 0.2% PM) and F2 (loaded 0.2% MNPs) in PBS pH 7.4. All data are presented as mean ± SD based on three measurements (n = 3). * denotes results that significantly differ from day 0 according to t-test statistics (p < 0.05). Full article ">Figure 5
The mangiferin content in the skin layers from using formulations F1 (loaded 0.2% PM) and F2 (loaded 0.2% MNPs): the percentage of stratum corneum, viable epidermis, and dermis. The quantitative content of mangiferin in all of the skin layers was determined using HPLC after 8 h. All data are presented as the mean ± SD based on three measurements (n = 3). * denotes the results that significantly differ from day 0 according to the t-test statistics (p < 0.05). Full article ">

14 pages, 5588 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Comparative Efficacy and Safety of 250 μm versus 350 μm Long Microneedle Patch on Under-Eye Skin

by Apisama Arepagorn, Jitlada Meephansan, Punyaphat Sirithanabadeekul, Kittipong Tantisantisom, Sattra Thongma, Yossawat Rayanasukha, Thitikorn Boonkoom and Paisan Khanchaitit

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 92; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030092 - 5 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1170

Abstract

Background: Microneedle patch (MNP) technology is now applied for many purposes, including transdermal drug delivery and percutaneous collagen induction in the cosmetic and dermatology fields. Previous research showed that a MNP effectively improved skin appearance, while treatments using larger or deeper microneedles were [...] Read more.

Background: Microneedle patch (MNP) technology is now applied for many purposes, including transdermal drug delivery and percutaneous collagen induction in the cosmetic and dermatology fields. Previous research showed that a MNP effectively improved skin appearance, while treatments using larger or deeper microneedles were not easily tolerated by human subjects. Few studies have compared MNP designs in humans. Study Objective: To compare novel MNP designs with high length and low density versus low length and high density for rejuvenating skin wrinkles under the eyes. Methods: This non-randomized split-face clinical trial was conducted as a double-blind study with 36 Thai female participants. Each participant was treated with two different MNP designs, one on each side of the face. The microneedle lengths were 250 μm with a density of 945 needles/cm² on the left side of the face under the eye and 350 μm with a density of 482 needles/cm² on the right side of the face under the eye. The treatments were applied for 12 weeks, with the assessment outcomes evaluated at the baseline and 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 weeks. Results: The application of these two novel MNP designs successfully rejuvenated under-eye wrinkles with low pain level scores. Increasing the length of the needle or having a 350 μm long MN can better reduce under-eye wrinkles without statistical significance. During the study period, there was an improvement in skin surface roughness in both groups accompanied by a consistent reduction in under-eye skin wrinkles, without statistically significant differences observed between the groups when using the Antera 3D system. However, the 350 μm long MN also slightly increased the pain compared to the shorter needles (250 μm long MN) with a higher density of needles. There were no side effects associated with the two designs. Conclusions: The two novel MNPs gave favorable results as a safe non-invasive treatment for the rejuvenation of skin wrinkles under the eyes. Increasing the number of needles and increasing the length of the needles were both effective in safely reducing under-eye wrinkles without any adverse effects. Additionally, participants could self-apply them at home and were highly satisfied. However, increasing the length of the needles may result in slightly more pain compared to increasing the number of needles. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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13 pages, 1554 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Towards the Development of a Cream with Antiviral Properties Targeting Both the Influenza A Virus and SARS-CoV-2

by Philippe Mangeot, Kristell Lazou, Aurelia Blin, Valerie Gorzelanczyk, Olivier Jeanneton, Chantal Kurfurst, Karl Pays, Bruno Bavouzet, Carine Nizard, Theophile Ohlmann and Anne-Laure Bulteau

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 91; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030091 - 4 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1149

Abstract

Objective: Many severe acute respiratory infections are caused by viral pathogens, and viruses are responsible for a large number of deaths worldwide. Among the most common respiratory viruses are the influenza A virus (IAV) and, more recently, the SARS-CoV-2 that emerged in 2019 [...] Read more.

Objective: Many severe acute respiratory infections are caused by viral pathogens, and viruses are responsible for a large number of deaths worldwide. Among the most common respiratory viruses are the influenza A virus (IAV) and, more recently, the SARS-CoV-2 that emerged in 2019 and caused the most significant human pandemic of the beginning of the 21st century. Both IAV and SARS-CoV-2 share clinical features and a common transmission route through the emission of viral particles via aerosols and droplets. These penetrate the host after entry from the nose and mouth or an indirect mode of transmission via contact contamination of different media. These facts prompted us to investigate the possibility of designing a soft cream with a virucidal activity targeted against IAV and SARS-CoV-2. Methods: We first investigated the action of chemical compounds known to have antiviral properties such as cyclodextrin, or algae extracts containing sulfated polysaccharides, on cultured cells infected with lentiviral viral particles pseudotyped (VP) with either proteins HA (hemagglutinin) and NA (neuraminidase) from IAV or the G protein from the vesicular stomatitis virus or spike-bearing particles in order to select molecules with antiviral activities in human embryonic kidney (HEK293T) cells. Results: Our results show that some cyclodextrin-containing creams can significantly reduce the stability of HANA- and spike-bearing particles when they are applied prior to challenge with a viral inoculum on skin. Conclusions: We observed some specificities of these creams towards either IAV or SARS-CoV-2, indicating that the neutralization of viral activity is correlated with the mechanism of receptor interaction and entry of these two pathogens. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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Identification of compounds inhibiting infection in a cell culture transduction assay: (A) principle of the transduction assay. HEK293T-target cells plated at d 0. At d 1, the culture media were replaced and supplemented with compounds before infection with two doses of viral particles (VP). At d 3, the means of fluorescence in transduced cells (MFI) were measured using FACS. (B) Scheme of VPs used: G-VPs and HA-VPs consist of YFP-encoding lentiviral vectors pseudotyped with VSV-G and HANA, respectively. (C) Characterization of particle batches. Graphs represent the dynamic of transduction efficiencies measured for both VP types. Increasing amounts of particles led to a linear increase in means of fluorescence (MFI) in target HEK293T cells. Titers of VP preparations are indicated. Arrows show the doses used in the assay. (D) Transduction assays using VPs-G and VPs-HA in HEK293T target cells treated with different reagents: Phosphate-buffered saline (PBS), CAD pantetheine sulfonate (CAD), dipotassium glycyrrhizate (DG), one algae extract containing a hybrid of kappa–beta carrageenan complex (AE), one extracellular sulfated polysaccharide (EPS) extract from the genus Porphyridium (Porphyridium cruentum extract) and KLEPTOSE® (K). MFI of target cells 48 h after transduction are given for each treatment. Bars indicate percentages of transduction inhibition measured for cells treated with CAD pantetheine sulfonate (CAD) and AE. Statistical analysis is expressed vs. phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) (mean ± SEM; n = 3; ** p < 0.01, with Student’s t-test). Full article ">Figure 2
Identification of formulations conferring an antiviral protection to living skin: (A) Framework of the living skin assay. Skin explants were cultivated at 37 °C and treated with formulated creams before the addition of a viral inoculum on the skin surface. The viral solutions contained both HA-VPs and spike-VPs. After 30 min of exposure, VP solutions were retrieved from skin surfaces and titered on HEK293T cells expressing ACE2. (B) Effect of cream mixture on viral stability. Transduction efficiency measured for non-treated skin (NT) was fixed at 100%. Placebo (Pl) and compound-containing mixtures are indicated. CAD pantetheine sulfonate (CAD), dipotassium glycyrrhizate (DG), AE, EPS, KLEPTOSE® (K) and Hydrapatch® (Hp) concentrations are provided in the Materials and Methods Section. (+) indicates higher concentrations for K, AE and EPS. Results are shown as the infection efficiencies measured for VPs-HA (in grey) or spike-VPs (in black). Analyses were performed 48 h after transduction with harvested inoculum (n = 3). Statistical analysis is expressed vs. NT (mean ± SEM; n = 3; ** p < 0.01, with Student’s t-test). Full article ">Figure 3
Treatment of skin with Liposkin® decreases the infectivity of exposed SARS-CoV-2 VPs. Cream formulations supplemented with Liposkin® (LIPS) were tested for their capacity to affect the infectivity of spike-VPs. Placebo (Pl) and formulations b and c were supplemented with Liposkin® (LIPS): these new mixtures are noted as Pl’, b’ and c’, respectively. The results show transduction efficiencies achieved with spike-VPs in reporting ACE2-HEK293T (RFP signal) after retrieving of inoculum from treated skin. Compounds in formulation are noted. (+) indicates a 10-fold higher concentration of KLEPTOSE® (K) AE and EPS. Bars indicate the level of transduction inhibition observed for conditions supplemented with Liposkin® (LIPS) as compared with the non-supplemented condition. (n = 3). Statistical analysis is expressed vs. NT (mean ± SEM; n = 3; ** p < 0.01, with Student’s t-test). Full article ">

28 pages, 14514 KiB

Open AccessReview

Disturbances in the Skin Homeostasis: Wound Healing, an Undefined Process

by Montserrat Férnandez-Guarino, Jorge Naharro-Rodriguez and Stefano Bacci

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 90; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030090 - 4 Jun 2024

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1326

Abstract

This review was written with the aim of examining the effects that cause an insult, such as a wound, to an organ, such as the skin. Before examining the cellular mechanisms relating to wound healing, the reader is invited to read about the [...] Read more.

This review was written with the aim of examining the effects that cause an insult, such as a wound, to an organ, such as the skin. Before examining the cellular mechanisms relating to wound healing, the reader is invited to read about the structure of the skin as a necessary basis for understanding the final aim of this review. The structure of the skin as a basis for understanding the phenomena relating to wound healing is addressed, taking into account the updated literature that addresses the numerous problems of the skin microenvironment. Starting from this awareness, the paragraphs dedicated to wound healing become complicated when this phenomenon is not implemented and therefore while the problems of chronic wounds, keloids, and hypertrophic scars are addressed, these are pathologies that are still difficult to understand and treat today. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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10 pages, 2597 KiB

Open AccessCommunication

Comparing a Low-Fluence Picosecond 1064 nm Nd:YAG Laser with a 532 nm Nd:YAG Laser for the Treatment of Pigmented Lesions in Chinese Patients: A Retrospective Analysis

by Po-Hsuan Lu, Xiao-Feng Yao, Yang-Chih Lin and Pa-Fan Hsiao

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 89; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030089 - 3 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1040

Abstract

The use of low-fluence picosecond (LFPS) 1064 nm neodymium-doped yttrium aluminum garnet (Nd:YAG) lasers, referred to as laser toning, is increasingly acknowledged as an effective treatment for pigmentation disorders in the Asian skin phenotype. This study aimed to conduct a comparative analysis on [...] Read more.

The use of low-fluence picosecond (LFPS) 1064 nm neodymium-doped yttrium aluminum garnet (Nd:YAG) lasers, referred to as laser toning, is increasingly acknowledged as an effective treatment for pigmentation disorders in the Asian skin phenotype. This study aimed to conduct a comparative analysis on the effectiveness and safety of utilizing LFPS 1064 nm Nd:YAG lasers against picosecond 532 nm Nd:YAG lasers in treating pigmented lesions among Chinese patients. A retrospective photographic analysis and chart reviews were performed on 31 subjects exhibiting Fitzpatrick skin types III–VI who underwent LFPS 1064 nm Nd:YAG or picosecond 532 nm Nd:YAG treatments at a single tertiary center. Utilizing VISIA Complexion Analysis, comparative photographs were taken. Two independent physicians evaluated treatment efficacy using a visual analog scale (VAS) to assess the percentage of pigmentary clearance in standard photographs. Solar lentigines were the most prevalent pigmentary disorder, followed by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), nevus zygomaticus, melasma, freckles, and nevus of Ota. The clinical effectiveness of picosecond 532 nm and LFPS 1064 nm laser treatments proved comparable for lesions on the face, with mean VAS scores of 2.2 ± 1.1 and 1.8 ± 0.8, respectively. There were two cases of PIH in the picosecond 532 nm group, which resolved within one month. Overall, the LFPS 1064 nm laser demonstrates promise as a safe and efficient therapeutic modality for managing pigmented lesions in Chinese patients. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Treatment for Anti-aging and Rejuvenation)

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8 pages, 826 KiB

Open AccessCommunication

Deodorant Efficacy of Xylityl Sesquicaprylate Vehiculated into Roll-on and Stick Prototype Formulations

by Lilian Mussi, André Rolim Baby, Cecilia Nogueira, Flávio Bueno de Camargo Junior and Wagner Vidal Magalhães

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 88; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030088 - 31 May 2024

Viewed by 954

Abstract

Given the burgeoning global market for deodorant products, it is paramount to develop novel, safe, and efficacious molecules that align with the cosmetic industry’s trend toward active compounds sourced from natural, sustainable, and renewable sources. In this context, we in vitro and in [...] Read more.

Given the burgeoning global market for deodorant products, it is paramount to develop novel, safe, and efficacious molecules that align with the cosmetic industry’s trend toward active compounds sourced from natural, sustainable, and renewable sources. In this context, we in vitro and in vivo investigated the deodorant potential of xylityl sesquicaprylate, a compound that, besides other functions, has antimicrobial activity. We performed the time–kill test to challenge the xylityl sesquicaprylate against Staphylococcus epidermidis, Staphylococcus aureus, and Corynebacterium xerosis and in vivo trial efficacy was established through a sniff test using two deodorant prototype formulations containing xylityl sesquicaprylate at 0.35% (w/w). The xylityl sesquicaprylate at 0.35% (w/w) in glycerin presented in vitro deodorant activity through a bactericide/bacteriostatic profile against S. epidermidis, S. aureus, and C. xerosis. The in vivo efficacy trial performed by the sniffers through a single application of the roll-on and the stick prototype formulations added to the developed active compound deodorant’s effectiveness with a reduction in axillary bad odor, in comparison to the respective blank sample, for 2, 4, 8, and 12 h. When the deodorant efficacy was evaluated subjectively by the participants, there was always no difference between the stick sample and the blank; however, the roll-on deodorant was perceived as effective after 4 and 8 h of a single application of the sample, as established by the volunteers. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)

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13 pages, 8271 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Effectiveness of a Complex Antioxidant Product Applied by Sonophoresis and Micro-Needle Mesotherapy

by Anna Jaros-Sajda, Elzbieta Budzisz and Anna Erkiert-Polguj

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 87; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030087 - 30 May 2024

Viewed by 812

Abstract

Antioxidants (including Vitamin C, ferulic acid, and phloretin) are among the compounds used in skincare products. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a combination containing L-ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, and phloretin. The delivery of active substances was facilitated [...] Read more.

Antioxidants (including Vitamin C, ferulic acid, and phloretin) are among the compounds used in skincare products. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a combination containing L-ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, and phloretin. The delivery of active substances was facilitated by micro-needle mesotherapy and sonophoresis. The study was completed by 22 volunteers. The study resulted in a significant reduction of erythema and an improvement in skin hydration. According to participants, the therapy yielded visible anti-aging effects. The combination of up to three antioxidant-active ingredients and the use of transdermal application methods proved to be both safe and effective. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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18 pages, 3734 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Physicochemical Properties of a Bioactive Polysaccharide Film from Cassia grandis with Immobilized Collagenase from Streptomyces parvulus (DPUA/1573)

by Kétura Ferreira, Kethylen Cardoso, Romero Brandão-Costa, Joana T. Martins, Cláudia Botelho, Anna Neves, Thiago Nascimento, Juanize Batista, Éverton Ferreira, Fernando Damasceno, Amanda Sales-Conniff, Wendell Albuquerque, Ana Porto and José Teixeira

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 86; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030086 - 29 May 2024

Viewed by 856

Abstract

(1) Background: Polysaccharide films are promising vehicles for the delivery of bioactive agents such as collagenases, as they provide controlled release at the wound site, facilitating tissue regeneration. This study aimed to investigate the physicochemical properties of Cassia grandis polysaccharide films with immobilized [...] Read more.

(1) Background: Polysaccharide films are promising vehicles for the delivery of bioactive agents such as collagenases, as they provide controlled release at the wound site, facilitating tissue regeneration. This study aimed to investigate the physicochemical properties of Cassia grandis polysaccharide films with immobilized collagenase from Streptomyces parvulus (DPUA/1573). (2) Methods: Galactomannan was extracted from Cassia grandis seeds for film production with 0.8% (w/v) galactomannan and 0.2% (v/v) glycerol with or without collagenases. The films underwent physical-chemical analyses: Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), color and opacity (luminosity-L*, green to red-a*, yellow to blue-b*, opacity-Y%), moisture content, water vapor permeability (WVP), thickness, contact angle, and mechanical properties. (3) Results: The results showed similar FTIR spectra to the literature, indicating carbonyl functional groups. Immobilizing bioactive compounds increased surface roughness observed in SEM. TGA indicated a better viability for films with immobilized S. parvulus enzymes. Both collagenase-containing and control films exhibited a bright-yellowish color with slight opacity (Y%). Mechanical tests revealed decreased rigidity in PCF (−25%) and SCF (−41%) and increased deformability in films with the immobilized bioactive compounds, PCF (234%) and SCF (295%). (4) Conclusions: Polysaccharide-based films are promising biomaterials for controlled composition, biocompatibility, biodegradability, and wound healing, with a potential in pharmacological applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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SEM images showing the surface structure of galactomannan film with and without bioactive compound incorporations. (a1–a3) 100× magnitude; (b1–b3) 250× magnitude; (c1–c3) 1000× magnitude. Full article ">Figure 2
Variation in effective coefficients for WVP in polysaccharide films related to relative humidity at 20 °C. Full article ">Figure 3
FTIR Spectra of the polysaccharide films after the incorporation of commercial collagenase enzymes and collagenase produced using Streptomyces parvulus. Full article ">Figure 4
FTIR Spectra (before and after UV exposure) of the polysaccharide films (a) polysaccharide film with commercial collagenase enzyme (b) and polysaccharide film with collagenase produced using Streptomyces parvulus (c). Full article ">Figure 5
Thermogravimetric analysis of the polysaccharide films (a), polysaccharide film with commercial collagenase enzyme (b) and polysaccharide film with collagenase produced using Streptomyces parvulus (c). Full article ">Figure 6
Representative image of the galactomannan film with immobilized collagenase obtained Streptomyces parvulus on black (a) and white (b) background. Full article ">

11 pages, 2219 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Nanotechnology for Effective Epilation: Assessment of the Application of a Protease-Containing Microemulsion

by Monika Skórka, Manfred Gahrtz, Maria D. Chatzidaki, Aristotelis Xenakis and Thomas Whitfield

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 85; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030085 - 29 May 2024

Viewed by 899

Abstract

Background: Epilation is a very effective way to remove unwanted hair because of its long-lasting effects. However, there are some disadvantages such as pain during the procedure, the possibility of ingrown hairs and perifollicular inflammation. In the present study, we investigated whether a [...] Read more.

Background: Epilation is a very effective way to remove unwanted hair because of its long-lasting effects. However, there are some disadvantages such as pain during the procedure, the possibility of ingrown hairs and perifollicular inflammation. In the present study, we investigated whether a protease-containing post-epilation microemulsion is effective in improving epilation performance and alleviating the above problems. Methods: The application characteristics and effects of the tested microemulsion were evaluated during and after three applications in 30 female volunteers. This was conducted by measuring hair density, assessing hair strength, and evaluating the subjective experience of the volunteers using a questionnaire. Results: The measurements showed that after three applications, the apparent hair density in the axilla was reduced from 43.89 ± 12.44 hairs/cm² to 16.67 ± 6.61 hairs/cm² (p < 0.0001). In general, volunteers observed a reduced hair regrowth rate, resulting in longer epilation intervals, and more soothed and moisturized skin. Volunteers who previously experienced ingrown hairs or perifollicular inflammation reported the absence or improvement of these problems. Conclusions: The protease-containing microemulsion not only improves the performance of the epilation procedure, leading to less frequent epilation, but also improves possible negative effects of epilation such as ingrown hairs and perifollicular inflammation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Nanotechnology Advances in Cosmetics)

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Trypsin hydrolysis of LNA in microemulsion system Lec/MCT (A) and in water. (B)—Initial rates (0–60 s) at 25 °C. The conditions are shown in the graph box. λ = 381 nm. Full article ">Figure 2
Apparent hair density at the axilla. (a) Average apparent hair density at the axilla before and after application of the protease-containing microemulsion after epilation. (b) Typical volunteer tester’s axilla details before and after epilation/treatment. T0: Before the first application; T1: before the second application; T2: before the third application T3: after the third application. Full article ">Figure 3
Change in the duration of epilation intervals. The average duration of the interval between epilations by the subjects before and at the end of the study is shown. The mean time between 2 epilations increased during the study from 16.31 ± 6.37 days before the study to 27.09 ± 8.61 days at the end of the study (p < 0.0001). Full article ">Figure 4
Subjective rating of basic product features. (a) Rating of the product preparation before use and of the spreading features of the microemulsion. (b) Rating of the absorption behavior of the microemulsion. Full article ">Figure 5
Subjective rating of the microemulsion’s effects on hair growth, skin health, and on epilation side effects. (a) Rating of epilation-related effects of the microemulsion. (b) Rating of effects of the microemulsion on the skin condition. (c) Rating of effects on epilation side effects. Full article ">

11 pages, 2037 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Natural Extracts and Essential Oils as Ingredients in Cosmetics: Search for Potential Phytomarkers and Allergen Survey

by Laura Rubio, Andrea Pita, Carmen Garcia-Jares and Marta Lores

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 84; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030084 - 24 May 2024

Viewed by 1460

Abstract

The increasing use of natural ingredients such as essential oils (EOs) and natural extracts (NEs) in cosmetics is an analytical and legislative challenge due to their complex composition, which includes recognized allergenic compounds. In this work, 17 EOs and NEs have been characterized [...] Read more.

The increasing use of natural ingredients such as essential oils (EOs) and natural extracts (NEs) in cosmetics is an analytical and legislative challenge due to their complex composition, which includes recognized allergenic compounds. In this work, 17 EOs and NEs have been characterized by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC-MS) of dilutions of the original samples. Additionally, solid phase microextraction (SPME) was applied for the analysis of volatile components. The results obtained allowed the identification of more than 90 compounds, including 20 allergens, in the analyzed samples and the study of potential phytomarkers of the addition of EOs and ENs in cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)

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13 pages, 1248 KiB

Open AccessArticle

A Randomized Controlled Prospective Cohort Study on the Efficacy of a Witch Hazel Extract Cream for the Eyelids and Eye Contour Area and a Cleansing Face Cream in Dermatitis of the Eyelids

by Federica Veronese, Elia Esposto, Chiara Airoldi, Nunzia Di Cristo, Pamela Paganini, Paola Savoia and Elisa Zavattaro

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 83; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030083 - 22 May 2024

Viewed by 1268

Abstract

Background: Eyelid dermatitis is a common, multifactorial, chronic, and/or relapsing condition with a considerable impact on life quality that represents a diagnostic and treatment challenge. Methods: We carried out a single-blind, controlled, randomized, parallel-group study to evaluate the efficacy of two dermo-cosmetics (cream [...] Read more.

Background: Eyelid dermatitis is a common, multifactorial, chronic, and/or relapsing condition with a considerable impact on life quality that represents a diagnostic and treatment challenge. Methods: We carried out a single-blind, controlled, randomized, parallel-group study to evaluate the efficacy of two dermo-cosmetics (cream for the eyelids and eye contour area and cleansing face cream) in which the key ingredient was witch hazel extract, compared to generic cream, in the treatment of patients affected by eyelid dermatitis. Enrolled subjects were treated and followed-up for 4 weeks; dermatological evaluation was objectively performed using the DLQI, OSDI, NRS–itch, and EDSI indicators. Results: The products tested proved to be more effective than the placebo in ameliorating the dermatitis in the treated patients, based on all considered dermatological scores. In the treatment arm, we observed a reduction in both DLQI score and in the indicators related to the extension of dermatitis, greater than that observed in the control arm. Conclusions: This comparative study demonstrates the role of dermo-cosmetic products tested not only as a support treatment, but also as a first-choice clinical approach. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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16 pages, 4054 KiB

Open AccessArticle

N-Acetylneuraminic Acid Inhibits Melanogenesis via Induction of Autophagy

by Kei Yoshikawa and Kazuhisa Maeda

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 82; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030082 - 21 May 2024

Viewed by 1052

Abstract

N-acetylneuraminic acid (Neu5Ac) is the predominant form of sialic acid present in the glossy swiftlet (Collocalia esculenta). It is also the only form of sialic acid detected in the human body. In this study, we investigated the mechanism underlying melanogenesis [...] Read more.

N-acetylneuraminic acid (Neu5Ac) is the predominant form of sialic acid present in the glossy swiftlet (Collocalia esculenta). It is also the only form of sialic acid detected in the human body. In this study, we investigated the mechanism underlying melanogenesis inhibition by Neu5Ac. We discovered that a reduction in tyrosinase protein levels led to an inhibition of melanin production by Neu5Ac. Additionally, the mRNA and protein levels of ubiquitin-specific protease (USP5) and microtubule-associated protein 1 light chain 3 (LC3)-II increased, while those of p62 decreased, indicating enhanced autophagic activity. Lysosomal cathepsin L2 protein levels also increased, and immunostaining revealed colocalization of lysosomal membrane protein (LAMP)-1 and tyrosinase. Additionally, levels of chaperonin containing T-complex polypeptide (CCT), implicated in increased autophagic flux, were elevated. Altogether, these findings suggest that tyrosinase-containing coated vesicles are transported by Neu5Ac into the autophagic degradation pathway, suppressing mature melanosome generation. This process involves increased USP5 levels preventing recognition of polyubiquitin by proteasomes. Furthermore, elevated CCT3 protein levels may enhance autophagic flux, leading to the incorporation of tyrosinase-containing coated vesicles into autophagosomes. These autophagosomes then fuse with lysosomes for cathepsin L2–mediated degradation. Thus, our findings suggest that Neu5Ac reduces tyrosinase activity and inhibits melanosome maturation by promoting selective autophagic degradation of abnormal proteins by p62. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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12 pages, 12251 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Fractional Ablative Carbon Dioxide Laser versus Fractional Non-Ablative 1410 nm Diode Laser in the Treatment of Acne Scars: A Clinical and Immunohistochemical Study

by Mai Abdelraouf Osman, Shaimaa Mohamedadel Fawy, Dalia M. Abouelfadl, Mohamed Fouad Abdel Salam, Amin Sharobim and Abeer Attia Tawfik

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 81; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030081 - 20 May 2024

Viewed by 1148

Abstract

Background: Effectively managing acne scars while minimizing consequences is still a challenging task. The primary determinant in selecting and continuing therapy for a specific device is stimulating collagen production and dermal remodeling with the fewest possible complications. Objective: To evaluate the clinical and [...] Read more.

Background: Effectively managing acne scars while minimizing consequences is still a challenging task. The primary determinant in selecting and continuing therapy for a specific device is stimulating collagen production and dermal remodeling with the fewest possible complications. Objective: To evaluate the clinical and immunohistochemical results of ablative fractional carbon dioxide (FCO₂) laser versus fractional non-ablative diode laser for treating facial acne scars. Methods and Materials: Thirty patients with atrophic acne scars were included in a split-face comparative study. Right and left facial sides received three sessions of FCO₂ and diode laser, respectively, at one-month intervals. One month after the third session, patients were evaluated using photographs, the Goodman and Baron qualitative and quantitative global scarring grading system, the investigator’s global assessment, and patient satisfaction. A sample was collected from the area that had been treated, and the tissue was examined using hematoxylin and eosin (H–E) staining and immunohistochemistry staining for collagen I. Results: Goodman and Baron global scores showed a statistically significant difference compared to baseline on both sides of the face. However, there was no statistically significant difference between the two treatment modalities. Biopsy specimens showed an increased deposition of collagen I by both laser devices, which was validated and described by immunohistochemistry staining. Conclusion: Both FCO₂ and fractional non-ablative diode lasers proved their efficacy in treating different types of acne scars. For patients who are interested in no downtime and no complications, fractional non-ablative diode laser is recommended as an efficient alternative modality. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Laser Therapy and Phototherapy in Cosmetic Dermatology)

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Clinical photographs show improvement in a patient with severe boxcar scars. (a,c) Right and left sides prior to treatment; (b,d) marked improvement following 3 months of FCO2 and diode laser treatments, respectively. Full article ">Figure 2
Clinical photographs show improvement in a patient with severe ice pick scars. (a,c) Right and left sides prior to treatment; (b) mild improvement and (d) marked improvement following 3 months of FCO2 and diode laser treatments, respectively. Full article ">Figure 3
Clinical photographs show improvement in a patient with severe SFM (erythematous) and SPS scars. (a,c) Right and left sides prior to treatment; (b,d) marked improvement following 3 months of FCO2 and diode laser treatments, respectively. Full article ">Figure 4
Mean collagen I area percentage between the two sides in all cases. Full article ">Figure 5
Mean collagen I area percentage between the two sides within each scar subtype. Within all cases, the mean and SD of collagen I on the right side (FCO2 laser) was 39.7 ± 7.3 (%), while on the left side, it was 37.8 ± 7.1 (%). There was no statistically significant difference between the two sides. Full article ">Figure 6
Histological specimen of rolling acne scar was observed via H–E staining. (a) At baseline, fibrous anchoring of the dermis to the subcutis (blue arrow) resulted in superficial shadowing and undulating appearance of scar. Dense collagen deposition (black arrows) after 3 months of both treatments: (b) FCO2 laser on right side induced more dense collagen deposition than (c) diode laser on left side. Micrograph images represents collagen 1 area percent expression stained by IHC stain (d) at baseline, (e) collagen fibers stained blue after 3 months of treatment by FCO2 laser on right side, and (f) diode laser on left side. Full article ">

19 pages, 995 KiB

Open AccessReview

Deciphering the Effects of Different Types of Sunlight Radiation on Skin Function: A Review

by Sophia Letsiou, Elpida Koldiri, Apostolos Beloukas, Efstathios Rallis and Vasiliki Kefala

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 80; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030080 - 20 May 2024

Viewed by 2028

Abstract

Sunlight radiation is a fundamental component of our daily lives. Specifically, blue light as well as UV light appear to play a role in the development of oxidative stress, DNA damage, photoaging, and pigmentation through the chromophores in skin tissues. However, several skin [...] Read more.

Sunlight radiation is a fundamental component of our daily lives. Specifically, blue light as well as UV light appear to play a role in the development of oxidative stress, DNA damage, photoaging, and pigmentation through the chromophores in skin tissues. However, several skin problems like psoriasis, eczema, and atopic dermatitis can be avoided with short-duration exposures to low-energy blue light radiation or UV radiation. In addition, exploring the effects of blue light as well as UV radiation on skin is quite essential for the development of minimally invasive antiaging strategies and for the design of innovative cosmetic formulations in modern aesthetics and cosmetology. Thus, in this review, we present the advantages as well as the disadvantages of light radiation, with a special focus on blue light and UV radiation activity on the human skin. We also discuss the molecular action of blue light and UV radiation on human skin. Other types of light radiation are included to holistically approach the effect of light on human skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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16 pages, 294 KiB

Open AccessReview

Computational Methods as Part of Scientific Research in Cosmetic Sciences—Are We Using the Opportunity?

by Laura Krumpholz, Sebastian Polak and Barbara Wiśniowska

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 79; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030079 - 14 May 2024

Viewed by 1340

Abstract

In the field of the cosmetic industry, significant efforts are made to develop methods that are not only cost effective and time effective but are also environmentally friendly and cruelty free. Cosmetic tests using in vivo animal models are currently banned in the [...] Read more.

In the field of the cosmetic industry, significant efforts are made to develop methods that are not only cost effective and time effective but are also environmentally friendly and cruelty free. Cosmetic tests using in vivo animal models are currently banned in the European Union. To fulfil regulatory requirements, new approach methodologies (NAMs) are implemented, and thereupon, in silico techniques have constantly acquired significance. This review aimed to show the general picture of the available computational methods and approaches, give some examples of their applications, present capabilities and limitations, and propose the way forward. The general information about in silico modelling and examples of its usage in the context of cosmetics and its legal regulation are presented. The review is divided with a focus on three endpoints of interest: (1) safety assessment, (2) exposure assessment, and (3) formulation characterization. With this comprehensive analysis, we try to answer the question as to whether we are using the opportunity. Full article

22 pages, 10723 KiB

Open AccessReview

Contact Dermatitis Due to Hair Care Products: A Comprehensive Review

by Marta Cebolla-Verdugo, Juan Pablo Velasco-Amador and Francisco José Navarro-Triviño

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 78; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030078 - 9 May 2024

Viewed by 1937

Abstract

Hair cosmetics are in fashion. Numerous products are commonly used in combination. Frequent allergens are present in hair cosmetics, which, with almost daily use, increase the risk of sensitization. Familiarity with the clinical distribution of the eczematous rash is necessary to seriously consider [...] Read more.

Hair cosmetics are in fashion. Numerous products are commonly used in combination. Frequent allergens are present in hair cosmetics, which, with almost daily use, increase the risk of sensitization. Familiarity with the clinical distribution of the eczematous rash is necessary to seriously consider patch testing. Not all the products on the market are haptens. It is necessary to know how to patch your own products. When avoidance of the allergen is not possible, new treatments are evaluated to combat allergic contact dermatitis, mainly of the occupational type. In this manuscript, a complete and practical review of the main allergens and contact sources of hair cosmetic origin has been carried out. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Recent Advance in Hair Science and Hair Care Technologies: 2nd Edition)

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12 pages, 2478 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Effect of Fermentation and Extraction Techniques on the Physicochemical Composition of Copoazú Butter (Theobroma grandiflorum) as an Ingredient for the Cosmetic Industry

by Luisa L. Orduz-Díaz, Kimberly Lozano-Garzón, Willian Quintero-Mendoza, Raquel Díaz, Juliana E. C. Cardona-Jaramillo, Marcela P. Carrillo, Diana Carolina Guerrero and Maria Soledad Hernández

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 77; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030077 - 8 May 2024

Viewed by 1503

Abstract

The Copoazú is a Theobroma species of Amazonian origin, and its derived products have a high content of lipids valuable for both the cosmetic and food industries. The composition of the butter extracted from its seeds can vary depending on the postharvest process [...] Read more.

The Copoazú is a Theobroma species of Amazonian origin, and its derived products have a high content of lipids valuable for both the cosmetic and food industries. The composition of the butter extracted from its seeds can vary depending on the postharvest process and the diverse extraction techniques employed. In this study, the composition of this butter processed with and without seed fermentation was analyzed using two extraction techniques: expeller pressing and hydraulic pressing. Parameters such as lipid profile, quality indexes, melting point, and the content of phytosterols and glyceric compounds were compared with a highly sought-after commercial raw material assessed through standardized volumetric and spectroscopic methodologies. The results showed that non-fermentation and cold-pressing conditions preserved the properties of the butter. This analysis is the first step in a standardized process for developing high-quality cosmetic ingredients derived from Copoazú butter. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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Color of the control sample (commercial) and the four evaluated treatments. WF EXP: extracted non-fermented butter via expeller pressing; FER EXP: extracted fermented butter using expeller pressing; WF HP: extracted non-fermented butter via hydraulic pressing; FER HP: extracted fermented butter using hydraulic pressing; COM: trading pattern used as control. Full article ">Figure 2
(a) Score plot based on the composition of fatty acids in the treated copoazú butter. The x-axis (T [<a href="#B1-cosmetics-11-00077" class="html-bibr">1</a>]) explains 46.8% of the total variance, while the y-axis (T [<a href="#B2-cosmetics-11-00077" class="html-bibr">2</a>]) explains 33.7%, for a total variance of 70%. (b) The axes represent Pearson correlation coefficients in the loading plot based on the composition of fatty acids in the treated copoazú butter. Full article ">Figure 3
Chromatographic profile of triacylglycerols in copoazú butter samples obtained via GC-FID-HT analysis. Full article ">Figure 4
Multivariate analysis based on the chromatographic data of the triacylglycerol profiles. Here, 95% of the total variance of the data is presented in the first two components. Full article ">Figure 5
Average FTIR-ATR spectrum of copoazú butter samples. Full article ">

17 pages, 722 KiB

Open AccessReview

Polyglutamate: Unleashing the Versatility of a Biopolymer for Cosmetic Industry Applications

by Mónica Serra, Eduardo Gudina, Cláudia Botelho, José António Teixeira and Ana Novo Barros

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 76; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030076 - 8 May 2024

Viewed by 1866

Abstract

Polyglutamic acid (PGA), a biopolymer comprising repeating units of glutamic acid, has garnered significant attention owing to its versatile applications. In recent years, microbial production processes have emerged as promising methods for the large-scale synthesis of PGA, offering advantages such as sustainability, efficiency, [...] Read more.

Polyglutamic acid (PGA), a biopolymer comprising repeating units of glutamic acid, has garnered significant attention owing to its versatile applications. In recent years, microbial production processes have emerged as promising methods for the large-scale synthesis of PGA, offering advantages such as sustainability, efficiency, and tailored molecular properties. Beyond its industrial applications, PGA exhibits unique properties that render it an attractive candidate for use in the cosmetic industry. The biocompatibility, water solubility, and film-forming characteristics of PGA make it an ideal ingredient for cosmetic formulations. This article explores the extensive potential cosmetic applications of PGA, highlighting its multifaceted role in skincare, haircare, and various beauty products. From moisturizing formulations to depigmentating agents and sunscreen products, PGA offers a wide array of benefits. Its ability to deeply hydrate the skin and hair makes it an ideal ingredient for moisturizers, conditioners, and hydrating masks. Moreover, PGA’s depigmentating properties contribute to the reduction in hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, enhancing the overall complexion. As the demand for sustainable and bio-derived cosmetic ingredients escalates, comprehending the microbial production and cosmetic benefits of PGA becomes crucial for driving innovation in the cosmetic sector. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)

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13 pages, 3306 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Effects of Chlorinated Water on Neurite Length of Cultured Dorsal Root Ganglion Neurons and Semaphorin 3A Content of Cultured Epidermal Keratinocytes

by Kazuhisa Maeda, Neneka Okumura, Aoba Ogawa and Hatsumi Takeda

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 75; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030075 - 7 May 2024

Viewed by 1303

Abstract

The tap water that we normally use contains certain concentrations of free residual chlorine to kill microorganisms and viruses and make it safe for use. Water containing free residual chlorine not only dries out our hair and skin but can also cause irritation [...] Read more.

The tap water that we normally use contains certain concentrations of free residual chlorine to kill microorganisms and viruses and make it safe for use. Water containing free residual chlorine not only dries out our hair and skin but can also cause irritation and itching in some people—especially those with sensitive skin or reduced skin barrier function. We investigated the effects of free residual chlorine on cultured dorsal root ganglion neurons and cultured epidermal keratinocytes. First, we measured neurite length in cultured rat dorsal root ganglion neurons. Next, to evaluate the effects of chlorine on semaphorin 3A (Sema3A) and nerve growth factor (NGF) levels in cultured human epidermal keratinocytes, we used an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay to measure NGF in the supernatant and polymerase chain reaction and Western blot to determine Sema3A and NGF levels. Chlorine elongated the neurite length and increased the number of projections in cultured rat dorsal root ganglion neurons. Although there were no changes in NGF mRNA or protein levels in the supernatant of cultured human epidermal keratinocytes in the presence of chlorine, Sema3A mRNA and protein levels decreased, and the ratio of Sema3A to NGF was also reduced. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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