Honduras

Tegucigalpa

& around

Built on the region’s mineral wealth, Tegucigalpa, the capital of Honduras, is a relentless urban dynamo, neither beautiful nor compelling, but as a hub of business and transport, essential and unavoidable.

The chaotic Tegucigalpa – or Tegus as it is called by locals – is cramped and crowded, but still somehow retains a degree of charm in what remains of the colonial centre. If you can bear to stay away from the Caribbean for a few days, it has much more history and charisma than its rival San Pedro Sula, to the north.

Surrounded by sharp, high peaks on three sides, the city is built on the lower slopes of El Picacho. Its smattering of Spanish colonial plazas, churches and townhouses contrast with much newer structures – high-rise office blocks, condos and shopping malls – which are signs of the city’s growing, if unevenly distributed, wealth and commercialism. The commercial centre is around Boulevard Morazán, an area known as ‘zona viva’, full of cafés, restaurants and shops. For contrast to the modern functional city, you can visit some of the centuries-old mining settlements set in forested valleys among the nearby mountains that are ideal for hiking.

Essential Tegucigalpa

Finding your feet

The winding of streets in the city means that moving around in the first few days is as much about instinct as following any map. The Tegucigalpa section of the city uses both names and numbers for streets, but names are used more commonly. In Comayagüela, streets designated by number are the norm. Addresses tend not to be very precise, especially in the colonias around Boulevard Morazán east and south of the centre of Tegucigalpa.

Best places to stay

Humuya Inn, see here

Minister Business Hotel, see here

Nuevo Boston, see here

Granada 2 and Granada 3, see here

Getting around

There are cheap buses, but for safety it is better to use taxis.

Tip...

On arrival it is very much easier – and recommended for safety – to take a taxi to your hotel until you get to know the city.

safety

Best restaurants

Hacienda Real, see here

La Cumbre, see here

Rojo, Verde y Ajo, see here

El Patio, see here

Don Pepe’s Terraza, see here

Generally speaking, Tegucigalpa is cleaner and safer (especially at night) than Comayagüela. If you have anything stolen, report it to Dirección de Investigación Criminal (DGIC), 5 Avenida, 7-8 Calle (next to Edificio Palermo), T2237-4799.

Tip...

For good restaurants, take a walk down the pedestrianized stretch of Avenida Paz Barahona. In the evening, take a taxi to Boulevard Morazón.

When to go

The city’s altitude gives it a reliable climate: temperate during the rainy season from May to October; warm, with cool nights in March and April; and cool and dry with cool nights from November to April. See also the climate chart on see here.

Sights

Crossing the river in Tegucigalpa (altitude 1000 m, population 1.1 million) from Comayagüela by the colonial Mallol bridge, on the left is the old Casa Presidencial (1919), home to the National Archive. When this was a museum, visitors could see the president’s office and the Salón Azul state room. Try asking – you may be lucky. (The new Palacio Presidencial is a modern building on Boulevard Juan Pablo II in Colonia Lomas del Mayab.)

Calle Bolívar leads to the Congress building and the former site of the University, founded in 1847. The site adjoining the church in Plaza La Merced is now the Galería Nacional de Arte Tue-Fri 0900-1600, Sat 0900-1200, US$1.50, a beautifully restored 17th-century building, housing a very fine collection of Honduran modern and colonial art, prehistoric rock carvings and some remarkable pre-Colombian ceramic pieces. There are useful descriptions of exhibits, and explanations of the mythology embodied in the prehistoric and pre-Colombian art.

Calle Bolívar leads to the main square, Plaza Morazán (commonly known as Parque Central). On the eastern side of the square is the Palacio del Distrito Central, and the domed and double-towered cathedral, built in the late 18th century but which have had a complete facelift. See the gilt colonial altarpiece, the fine examples of Spanish colonial art, the cloisters and, in Holy Week, the ceremony of the Descent from the Cross.

Avenida Miguel Paz Barahona, running through the north side of the square, is a key venue. To the east is the church of San Francisco, with its clangorous bells, and, on 3 Calle, called Avenida Cervantes, the old Spanish Mint (1770), now the national printing works.

From Plaza Morazán, heading west towards the river to Avenida Miguel Paz Barahona, opposite the post office is the Museo Para La Identidad Nacional T2238-7412, www.min.hn, Tue-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1100-1700, US$3.30, a museum that is unashamedly about Honduras for Hondurans. There is a good multimedia presentation (with an audioguide, in Spanish only), and a well-thought-out trip through Honduran history, from plate tectonics to the present day. Its star attraction is ‘Virtual Copán’ – a wide-screen CGI recreation of the Maya ruins, entrance US$1.65; there are also occasional temporary exhibitions. It offers just enough detail without getting heavy; every capital city in Central America should have a museum like this.

BACKGROUND

Tegucigalpa

Founded as a silver and gold mining camp in 1578, Tegucigalpa means silver hill in the original indigenous tongue; miners first discovered gold at the north end of the current Soberanía bridge. The present city is comprised of the two former towns of Comayagüela and Tegucigalpa which, although divided by the steeply banked Río Choluteca, became the capital in 1880 and are now united administratively as the Distrito Central.

Being off the main earthquake fault line, Tegucigalpa has not been subjected to disasters by fire or earthquake, unlike many of its Central American neighbours, so it has retained many traditional features. The stuccoed houses, with a single, heavily barred entrance leading to a central patio, are often attractively coloured. However, the old low skyline of the city has been punctuated by several modern tall buildings, and much of the old landscape changed with the arrival of Hurricane Mitch.

The rains of Hurricane Mitch in October 1998 had a devastating effect on the Distrito Central. But the damage caused by the Choluteca bursting its banks is hard to see these days, with the exception of the first avenue of Comayagüela, where abandoned homes and buildings remain empty. Bridges washed away by the floodwaters have now been replaced, power supplies are back and, in some respects, traffic is actually better now, since many routes were diverted from the heart of downtown. Today, Hurricane Mitch lives on as painful memory.

Heading east a block, then left (north) along 5 Calle (Calle Los Dolores), is the 18th-century church of Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores. Two blocks north and three blocks west of the church is the beautiful Parque Concordia with good copies of Maya sculpture and temples. On a hilltop one block above Parque Concordia, on Calle Morelos 3A, is the Museo de la Historia Republicana Villa Roy, the former site of the Museo Nacional and, in 1936, home of the former president, Julio Lozano. Sadly, the building sustained severe structural damage from landslides in 2014 and at the time of research the museum was closed for the foreseeable future. It may or may not reopen; check with the tourist office for the latest news.

Back on Avenida Miguel Paz Barahona, and further west, are the Teatro Nacional Manuel Bonilla, with a rather grand interior (1915) inspired by the Athenée Theatre in Paris and, across the square, the beautiful old church of El Calvario. Built in elegant colonial style, El Calvario’s roof is supported by 14 pillars.

In Colonia Palmira, to the southeast of the city, is Boulevard Morazán, with shopping and business complexes, embassies, banks, restaurants, cafeterías and bars. You can get a fine view of the city from the Monumento a La Paz open till 1700, on Juana Laínez hill, near the Estadio Nacional (National Stadium), but don’t walk up alone.

The backdrop to Tegucigalpa is the summit of El Picacho, with the Cristo del Picacho statue looming up to the north (see Valle de Angeles, below), although this can be hard to see at times. From Plaza Morazán go up 7 Calle and the Calle de la Leona to Parque La Leona, a small handsome park with a railed walk overlooking the city and safer than Monumento a La Paz.

Higher still is the reservoir in El Picacho, also known as the United Nations Park, which can be reached by a special bus from the No 9 bus stop, behind Los Dolores church (in front of Farmacia Santa Bárbara, Sunday only, US$0.15); alternatively, take a bus to El Piligüin or Corralitos (daily at 0600) from the north side of Parque Herrera in front of the Teatro Nacional Manuel Bonilla.

Comayagüela

Crossing the bridge of 12 de Julio (quite near the Teatro Nacional Manuel Bonilla, see above) you can visit Comayagüela’s market of San Isidro. In the Edificio del Banco Central, is the Pinacoteca Arturo H Medrano 12 Calle entre 5 y 6 Av, which houses approximately 500 works by five Honduran artists, and the Museo Numismático Mon-Fri 0900-1200, 1300-1600, which has a collection of coins and banknotes.

Listings Tegucigalpa map see here

Tourist information

Instituto Hondureño de Turismo Edif Europa, Av Ramón E Cruz and Calle República de México, 3rd floor, Col San Carlos, T2222-2124; also at Toncontín Airport, open 0830-1530.

Tourist offices provide lists of hotels and sell posters and postcards. Information on cultural events around the country from Teatro Nacional Manuel Bonilla is better than at regional tourist offices.

Where to stay

There is a 4% tax on hotel bills, plus 12% sales tax: check if it is included in the price.

$$$ Aparthotel Guijarros Col Lomas del Guijarro, Calle Roma 3929, T2235-6851, www.guijarros.com. Enjoying a good location in a safe residential neighbourhood, Aparthotel Guijarros offers a range of modern rooms, suites, and apartments, all fully kitted with 32 inch screens, microwave, mini-fridge, Wi-Fi, hair-dryers and more. Offerings in the restaurant include home-grown organic produce. A decent and reliable option with very accommodating staff.

$$$ Honduras Maya

Av República de Chile, Col Palmira, T2280-5000, www.hotelhonduras maya.hn. Spacious rooms and apartments, dated decor, casino and pool, Bar Mirador with nightly happy hour 1700-1900, cafeterías, restaurant, very good buffet breakfast, conference hall and convention facilities for 1300, view over the city from upper rooms. Excellent travel agency in the basement. Expensive internet access.

$$$ Humuya Inn

Col Humuya 1150, 5 mins from airport, T2239-2206, www.humuyainn.com. Helpful, homey and professionally run lodgings with lots of good reports. Accommodation includes rooms and service apartments, US owner. Quiet family atmosphere and nice views from the rooftop terrace. Recommended.

$$$ Minister Business Hotel

Col Florencia Norte, Blvd Suyapa 2340, T2280-6464, www.ministerbusiness.com. This swish business hotel boasts stylish contemporary decor and a superb rooftop bar with 360-degree views of the city. Rooms are smallish but well-attired with plush fixtures and modern amenities, including cable TV, high-speed Wi-Fi and coffee machine. A very comfortable and presentable option. Recommended.

$$$ President House Hotel

Col Lomas del Guijarro, Av Enrique Tierno Galvan, T2231-0431, www.presidenthousehotel.com. Well-situated in a quiet residential neighbourhood, this refurbished colonial-style townhouse was originally built for Honduran ex-president Ramón Ernesto Cruz. Perched on a hill, it offers airy terraces with a restaurant and coffeehouse. Accommodation is in comfortable rooms with a/c, cable TV, hot water, safe box and Wi-Fi. A good deal for single travellers ($).

$$$-$$ Real Colonial Hotel Col Palmira, Calzada San Martín 458, T2220-7497, www.realcolonialhotel.hn. The Real Colonial is a cosy, 6-storey hotel with attentive service, bright murals and a small outdoor patio where you can enjoy breakfast. Rooms are simple, comfortable and modern, featuring all the usual amenities including high-speed Wi-Fi, a/c, and 32 inch screen. Nestled in an exclusive neighbourhood.

$$ Hospedaje Café Cibreo

Col Palmira, Calzada San Martín 452, T2220-5323, www.hospedajecafecibreo.cdvhotels.com.

Formerly Leslie’s Place, this homely and well-established B&B has a restaurant-café serving Mediterranean-style cooking in an open-air courtyard. Rooms have high-speed Wi-Fi, hot water, cable TV and a/c. Close to bars and restaurants. Down-to-earth and pleasant.

$$ Nuevo Boston

Av Máximo Jerez 321, T2237-9411.

In a central location, this well-run, simple place has spotless rooms with good beds, and hot water. Rooms on the street side are noisy. Good value, no credit cards, free coffee, mineral water and cookies in lounge, stores luggage. Recommended.

$ Granada 2 and $ Granada 3

T238-4438 and T2237-0843, on the street leading uphill (to Barrio Casamate) from northeast corner of Parque Finlay.

Good beds, hot water and safe parking. It can be noisy from passing traffic so try to get a room at the back. Recommended.

$ Palmira Hostel

Av Juan Lindo, T2236-9143, www.palmirahostel.com.

A cheap, comfortable, reliable hostel located in a safe part of town opposite the French embassy and around the corner from the US embassy. They offer well-kept dorms and private rooms, clean and spartan. There is a small outdoor terrace and indoor communal areas, including a kitchen. Wi-Fi included.

Comayagüela

Comayagüela is convenient for buses to the north and west and there are many cheap pensiones and rooms. It is noisier and dirtier than Tegucigalpa and many places are unsuitable for travellers. If you are carrying luggage, take a taxi.

Restaurants

Most places close on Sun.

$$$ El Corral

4a Av, opposite Hotel Clarión, Col Alameda, T2232-5066.

Big, brash steakhouse, with excellent grilled meats and decent wine list. Lively at weekends, with live music, karaoke and dancing.

$$$ Gino’s Pasta Café

Distrito Hotelero San Martín, Col Palmira, www.ginos-pastacafe.com.

Gino serves some of the best home-cooked Italian food in Honduras, fresh, simple, and flavourful, the way good Italian food should be. Soups, salads, pastas and pizza are among the authentic offerings at this cosy and popular eatery.

$$$ Hacienda Real

Plaza Colprosumah and Blvd Juan Pablo II, west side of Hotel Marriot, T2239-6860, www.hacienda-real.com.

One of the finest steakhouses in Honduras, set in a handsome colonial-style building and part of a high-end international franchise with branches in Guatemala and El Salvador. Prices are steep, but not by western standards. Popular for business lunches.

$$$ La Cumbre

Northeast of the city, El Hatillo Km 7.5, T2211-9000, www.lacumbrehn.com.

La Cumbre promises a memorable fine dining experience with its disarming hilltop setting and expansive views over the valley and city below. Prices for its pasta, steaks and seafood aren’t cheap, but the cuisine and service are exceptional. Romantic and intimate, one of the best.

$$$ Rojo

Verde y Ajo, Av República de Argentina 1930, Col Palmira, T2232-5653, www.rojoverdeyajo.com.

A very stylish and well-executed restaurant with diverse international offerings such as beef medallions in cognac sauce and shrimp with champagne butter. Occasional live music, guest chefs and wine-tasting events. Warm and convivial. Recommended.

$$ Aroy

Blvd Morazán, T9481-9095, www.aroyhn.wix.com/aroy.

Aroy serves authentic Thai cuisine with a tempting menu of delectable delights such as summer rolls, stuffed cucumber, chicken satay, Thai coco soup, and green papaya salad. Wholesome home-cooking and a pleasant interior.

$$ Duncan Maya

Av Colón 618, opposite central Pizza Hut. This popular locals’ haunt is a lively place and it occasionally hosts live music. Food is filling and reasonably priced fare, including mostly national staples.

$$ Marjaba Café

Av República Dominicana 3641, T8880-7358, www.marjabacafe.com. Tue-Sun for lunch only. Wholesome, tasty, affordable and fully authentic Middle Eastern fare, and occasional belly dancers. For lunch, the buffet-style menú del día includes a meat dish, 5 sides and a drink. Friendly service and vegetarian options too.

Tip...

There are good Chinese restaurants on Calle del Telégrafo in the centre; they offer huge servings at reasonable prices.

$$ Tony’s Mar

Col Florencia, Blvd Suyapa, T2232-5266, www.tonysmarrestaurante.com.

This reliable seafood joint has been serving up fish, prawns and ceviche for 25 years. Large servings, fresh, tasty, wholesome and reasonably priced. The current menu has lots of variety, including octopus and conch.

$$-$ El Patio

Easternmost end of Blvd Morazán, T2221-3842, www.elpatiohn.com.

Traditional food served in a large casual dining hall bedecked with old photos and fairy lights. Good service and atmosphere, and generous portions.

A long-standing Tegus favourite. Recommended.

$ Don Pepe’s Terraza

Av Colón 530, upstairs, T2222-1084. Central, cheap, live music, but typical Honduran atmosphere. Heaty locals’ joint with hearty grub. Recommended.

$ La Cacerola

Col Lomas del Mayab, Av República de Costa Rica 1692.

This chilled out little eatery specializes in comida típica, of which its hot soups are particularly renowned; the sopa de caracol (conch soup), a national favourite, is not to be missed. Sandwiches and wraps are also available. A light, cosy, friendly place, good for an inexpensive lunch.

$ Merendero El Buen Gusto

Calle Hipolito Matute, behind the cathedral.

An unpretentious downtown joint where you can rub shoulders with the locals and wolf down some hearty home-cooked grub. Convenient, but not fine dining.

Cafés and bakeries

Café y Librería Paradiso

Av Paz Barahona 1351.

Excellent coffee and snacks, good library, paintings and photos to enjoy, and newspapers and magazines on sale. A good meeting place with a bohemian atmosphere.

Salman’s

Blvd Morazán, next to Centro Comercial Maya, www.pansalmans.com.

Several outlets. Good bread/pastries, including baguettes and doughnuts.

Bars and clubs

In front of the Universidad Nacional on Blvd Suyapa is La Peña, where every Fri at 2100 there is live music, singing and dancing, entrance US$1.40.

Blvd Morazán has plenty of choice in nightlife including Taco Taco, a good bar, sometimes with live mariachi music; next door Tequila, a popular drinking place only open at weekends. Tobacco Road Tavern, a popular gringo hangout, in the downtown area on Calle Matute. Iguana Rana Bar is very popular with locals and visitors, similarly La Puerta del Alcalá, 3½ blocks down from Taca office on Blvd Morazán, Col Castaño Sur. Pleasant open