ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V UNIT IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING 3D Body scanning 3D Body scanning is a technology that produces a 3D model through scanning. An individual stands in the scanners view, while it captures his body image and produces 3D images within seconds. The scanner uses a series of light sensors to produce a 3D image. Images are captured in 360 degrees within a short period of time along with body measurements and human body surface. This data is archived or further processed according to the requirement. 3D body scanning and digitized images are used in mass customization of apparels, where the consumer is measured three dimensionally, and through the digitized image seen on the computer screen, he can choose a garment with a style that goes with his choice. The technology of three dimensional body scanning is used in diversified fields. A renowned application of this scanning process is in the field of custom tailoring. People are of various sizes and shape. This created a problem of fitting. Manufacturers needed more accurate information to produce perfect fitting garments. Customizing garments to correctly fit the consumer depends on the availability of comprehensive set of measurements. Progression in the field of Information Technology comes to the aid of retailers and manufacturers through the procedure of 3D Body Scanning. In this process, individual measurements can be obtained more accurately and quickly. The 3D scanned data contains standardized tailoring measurements like chest size, body size, circumference, and also a complete 3-D data of the individual. This new technology is changing aspects of the apparel industry. 3D body scanning: It is a fast, accurate and easy process. It includes a scanner and measurement extraction software. The scanner extracts hundreds of images of the individual and the software automatically extracts thousands of measurements. The consumers measurements are taken through the scanner digitally and a digital twin is created by the computer on the screen. Based on this image on screen, the computer confines all the measurements that match almost with the consumers actual, individual measurements. 1 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V A 3D model is created by digitizing the surface of the individual. The scanner generates number of 3D images of the consumer. Each image is a partial 3D model exhibiting a single view of the consumers structure. To create a 360 degree image of the consumer number of images are taken and all images are aligned in a proper format and one final 3D image is created. Once the image is created, the measurement extraction software installed in the computer takes hundreds of individual measurements from head to toe. This data is then forwarded to the manufacturer who uses his creativeness and creates the garment in a very short time with the exact measurements that matches the consumer. Types of 3-D Body Scanning: 1) Laser Scanning: This technology consists of using laser rays to project unto the human body. Light sensors capture the measurements. A laser beam scans the consumers body in a fraction of a second. It is a contact free and does not have any health hazards. The scanner uses low power micro waves to illuminate the human body. These waves easily penetrate the clothing and reach the persons body. To avoid offensiveness of the light beam only eye-safe lasers are used. The computer software then analyzes the high resolution pictures of the human body and decides the exact tailoring measurements for that individual. Within seconds, hundreds of measurements are taken 2 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V from head to toe to create the exact 3D data. The scan takes hundreds of individual measurements, despite only a few will be used when tailoring the garment. White light body scanning: This system uses a white light based scanner, and measurement extraction software. Hundreds of images are captured and automatically accurate measurements are extracted through the software. A series of light fringes are projected into the individual whose measurements need to be taken. 3D information is acquired by analyzing the deformation that the projected light reflects after touching the consumers body. An integrated camera captures the series of images and exhibits the series of deformation in the reflected light. The projection and image formation takes only a few seconds. From these images the measurements of the surface of the object, that is the consumers measurements are obtained. This method is superior than laser technology in a way that data capture happens in a very short time period and also digitization of the entire surface parts are made possible. Combination of Modeling and Image Processing: In this process 3D measurements are not used, but 2D images are used to extract and generate 3D information. Three images of the person, two from the front and one from the side in acquired, and measurements are calculated based on the body silhouette. The produced computer models are very realistic. This is less expensive when compared to the other two ways of processing. 3-D Body Scanning in the Apparel Industry Linking Tradition with Technology: Human body shapes vary by age, way of life, and geographic location. A research among American women revealed that the average waist size of a white woman is 33 inches, 34 for Hispanics and 35 for black women. But the current trend in the apparel industry is mass manufacturing and marketing. Garments are tailored only for the standard hour glass figure. Clothes that fit correctly on the shoulder might hang loosely from the waist, resulting in fitting 3 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V problems. Many surveys showed that almost 50 percent of the women surveyed were not able to find well fitting apparels under the current sizing system. Manufacturers and retailers lacked the individual consumers accurate body measurements to create perfect fitting garments. 3-D body scanning technology is useful to develop custom fit garments, size prediction, virtual try on, custom pattern development for home sewers etc. It enables the retailers to quickly collect three-dimensional data for each consumer, and provide individualized sizing and design features. It allows consumers to take advantage of the modern form of custom tailoring. Once the consumers personal data is created on the computer, it is then transferred to the manufacturer online. This makes the tailoring process quicker and by eliminating middlemen and their expenses becomes economical also. The acquired measurements can be archived by the retailer with the consumers due permission, so that a range of garments can be ordered by the consumer anytime in future. The data collected through this technology provides real time information to the apparel industry, wherein clothes will be manufactured with attached labels mentioning the bust, waist, and hip sizes thereby guiding the consumers to select a garment with perfect fittings. It has remarkable implication for consumers buying through all distribution channels like direct, catalog and online shopping. Mass Customization of Apparels: Until recently, apparel customization and economical pricing were mutually exclusive. The high cost involved in the process made garment customization possible only for the wealthier class of the society. Delivering high quality customized garments quickly, and at a lower price is the obligation of consumers. The concept of mass customization emerged to fulfill the above requirements. Mass customization is the personalization of apparels for individual customers at a mass production price. It aims as serving a wider market segment at a low cost, and the application of 3D body scanning technology helps the manufacturers to satisfy the consumers aspiration of customizing garments. Precise measurements taken through the 3D scanning process helps in mass customizing operations. This process employs four basic steps: 1. First a sales representative measures the customer with the aid of a computer. 2. Then the salesperson enters the measurement data into a computer and customizes the garment according to the customers choice. 4 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING 3. Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V Third, the adjusted measurements are sent to the manufacturer to create a customized garment. 4. Fourth, the finished garment is labeled with a bar code and retailed Virtual Try-on Solutions: This process provides the customer with a virtual image of how he or she will look in a particular garment. General information about the consumer like, small waist, narrow shoulders, long hair etc is entered in the computer. The software in the computer develops an image of the consumer based on these descriptions and displays it on the screen. The consumer can make modifications on the displayed virtual image so as to match it with himself. The computer then displays various types of garments on the screen. The consumer chooses different types of clothing and tries them on his virtual image available on the computer screen. The computer applies this clothing image on the virtual image of the consumer created and displays the picture on the screen. The image is also rotated in 360 degrees so that the consumer can get a perfect idea of the fitting. The computer highlights areas of good and bad fit, and guides the consumer to select the most appropriate apparel. Current scenario The ultimate goal of this technological innovation is to provide the customer with appropriate information and guide them in selecting the right apparel with a perfect fit. 3D scanning is still in its early stages of development, and its awareness among retailers and manufacturers as well as its application in the apparel industry is very minimal. The cost involved in the process of body scanning is way too expensive to be utilized by the consumers with average income. This 3D process is not well integrated with the computer systems, thus making it seldom for the consumers to choose a design all by themselves. They have to rely on a professional designer to use the body data and alter the design pattern and create a customized garment that best fits the individual consumer. This again makes the body scanning process a complex matter and all the 5 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V more expensive. Therefore a need for an affordable, and user friendly body scanning system is required. Future of this technology: 3D scanning technology has the potential to inculcate positive changes in the apparel industry. Optimum utilization of this technology will create a drastic change in the business paradigm. This will give a value added positive rise in the market curve of the apparel industry and cause a drastic change in the way apparel shopping is done now. It is an effective strategy for maximizing customer satisfaction and minimizing inventory cost. Development of this technology will provide the apparel industry with different tools to design different types of apparels and provide the market segment with right fitting clothing. But ultimate success of 3D Body Scanning technology depends on the consumers acceptance and application of the process. The customers acceptance depends on the fit and finish of the final product, the total cost involved, his awareness of the technology, and accessibility of these applications. These factors play a crucial role and influence the consumers decision of whether or not to buy a 3D body scanned garment. Essential Pattern and CAD Software for Garment Industry Crea: It is worldwide recognized as the most intuitive and easy to use CAD for pattern making, size grading and made to measure. Developed on the windows interface for the pattern makers that are totally autonomous after only 3 days of training. Headquartered in Italy, and grown up working with the most popular fashion brands of the world, Crea Solution has developed the complete CAD CAM for fashion & apparel suite equipped with all direct importers of other CAD formats. Crea is having a huge success even in industries like aerospace, furniture, automotive, bespoke and made to measure, technical textiles and composite garment industry. Lectra It is one of the worldwide renowned CAD software for garment entrepreneurs. They have developed a high-end CAD solution for the fashion industry. Pattern makers love to use Lectra for its simplicity and powerful features. It also admired in fashion and apparel, furniture, automotive as well as other industries like composites, textiles, and leather. Their cutting solutions are perfect for smooth operations. Their headquarters situated in Paris in French. 6 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V Gerber Accumark It is one of the popular CAD software for garment manufacturers. This software is user-friendly along with advanced features. It’s a comprehensive and full-featured CAD pattern making software for the apparel industry. Their software and hardware solutions are perfect for fashion & apparel, aerospace, construction, packaging, furniture, automotive industry, technical textiles, digital printing, graphics industries. Their headquarters situated at West Tolland in the USA. GT CAD Software It is an integrated and accurate pattern making software for perfect fitting garments. Their interface has designated very simply so that everyone can handle it quickly. Optitex It exists 2D and 3D pattern making option with a lot of advanced features. You can use their package by paying low subscription to get lifetime customer support. It was a startup venture of Silicon Valley. Their CAD, pattern, cutting solutions are easy to use for all apparel industries. Etelestia Telestia formed by the Fashion School SITAM-AB in Greece on 2004. It is a comprehensive and full-featured CAD pattern making software for the apparel industry. Their 2D & 3D CAD/CAM solutions are perfect for Pattern-Designing, Grading, detailing, marker layout and CAD drafting in Garment industry. Tuka CAD It’s appropriate for Pattern-Designing, Grading, and Marker-Making in Garment industry. You can use their service by paying low monthly subscription to get their premium service. They also provide free online unlimited training for their subscribers. Their software’s are perfect for accurate measuring. Their headquarters situated in Los Angeles in the USA. Fashion Cad They have an integrated pattern making software for high-end customers. Their CAD solutions are user-friendly for pattern drafting, modification, grading, pattern cloning, detailing, and marker making. It is an Australia-based company. Richpeace They have a complete CAD solution for pattern making, pattern treatment, grading, detailing, editing, pattern cutting. It can be downloaded from their official websites by paying low yearly 7 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V subscription. Their headquarters situated at tianjinshi in China. They also provide different types of cutting & sewing machine, embroidery, quilting machine. Gemini CAD System They provide integrated software and hardware solutions for pattern creation, modification, measuring, grading, pattern cutting including 2D and 3D pattern making option. It is a Romaniabased company. PAD Systems It’s powerful but easy software for pattern designing, grading, pattern alteration, cloning. It has some user-friendly Interface for making innovation. Thus, you can choose it for your production unit. It invented by iWork Ltd, a Hong-Kong based company. Romans CAD It is innovative and dynamic software for manufacturers and designers to accomplish Pattern Making, Pattern Treatment, Grading, and Marker Making Solution. Their sophisticated solutions are especially admired in footwear and leather goods industries to accomplish the critical task. Their headquarters situated at rungis in French. Dimension CAD It is an advanced pattern making, grading, editing, eliminating, and marker making solution that will make more efficient your production process and reduce operating cost. It is also an idle and affordable pattern making software for home based or commercial businesses. It situated in San Diego in the USA. Wild Ginger Wild Ginger publish the most comprehensive and cost-effective range of pattern making software on the market. It exist many custom features for pattern creation, grading, pattern tampering, marker-making, mass customization and custom mode of tailoring. You can use their education version without free of charge. Computer-aided pattern grading or three dimensional grading: Computed grading (CAD) is the fastest pattern grading techniques. But when it first came, it was only used by larger fashion or apparel manufacturers for their production process. Now CAD is more affordable software. By this method every manufacturer’s get more accurate, precise, detailed patterns in a short time. Computer grading is the most recent development in grading technology. It is also the fastest method. Computer grading, however, is expensive and usually 8 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V only large manufacturers can afford it. Computer grading takes the processes of the two former methods and digitizes them. There is not a superior method; they are all equally capable of producing a correct garment grade. Computer based grading systems operate in one of two ways: 1. The grading increments are feed into the computer and the different sizes are generated automatically using the same methods as applied for manual grading. 2. The pattern for each individual size is calculated separately starting from the data in the size specification charts. The resulting nest of patterns can be displayed to scale on the computer monitor for visual assessment and if necessary, adjustment. Once the pattern set has been generated on the computer, it may be used in various ways, depending on the level of automation in the factory. In a fully automated system, the garment parts will be sorted automatically and arranged into a lay plan which can then be transmitted in the form of a control program to the automatic laying and cutting system. Alternatively, the patterns can be sent to a large plotting device where they will be drawn at full scale to serve as paper patterns for manual cutting. The patterns can also be used in an automatic device for cutting templates from more durable material. Advantages:  9 Quick process i.e. less time consumption; Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING  Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V High accuracy may be obtained Disadvantages:  High initial cost is involved  Skilled operator is required. Principles of computer grading The principles of computer grading are 1. The computer constructs diagrams by using mathematical co-ordinates which can be recorded by placing the pattern on a digitizer which works as an electronic grid and it records special points around the shape by means of cursor. 2. The centre of cross hairs of the cursor is placed on the points to be recorded. 3. When the cursor button is pressed signals are sent to the computer which is translated into a numerical record of the shape and information for the piece. 4. Once a basic shape, its significant features and grading information is stored in the computer memory. 5. Then range of sizes can be graded and plotted out onto pattern paper or used to construct lay plans for production markers. Methods of grading There are 3 basic methods of pattern grading: Cut and spread This is considered the easiest method. It is performed by cutting the pattern and spreading the pieces by a certain amount, to grade up or down. The only tools needed are a pencil, ruler, scissors and measuring tape. Fig. Cut and spread grading method 10 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V Pattern shifting This method is done by moving the pattern around at a constant distance. The designer redraws the outline in order to produce the same results as the previous cut and spread method. Fig. Shifting grading method Computer grading Has developed with the advance of new technologies. It is considered the fastest method. It basically uses the same process as the ‘cut and spread’ and ‘pattern shifting’ methods and digitizes them. 11 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V Difference between grading a pattern and altering a pattern Grading a pattern and altering a pattern are two very different and separate processes. When you grade a pattern every measurement point is changed based on a strict formula. Garment maintains the same fit and proportion in each new size. Basically, you are creating the same style in another size. Pattern altering process When altering a pattern, only some parts of the pattern are changed. The same fit and proportions are not maintained, a new size is created for a specific custom size. For example, the shoulder width stays the same, but the bust circumference is adjusted to a bigger size. Grade rules and Grade rule libraries The grading rule determines how much each POM (point of measurement) is made larger or smaller in order to fit a wide range of sizes. The main purpose of it is to ensure good fit and overall balance of shape in a manufactured garment. For example, the grade rule will determine how much the chest measurement will decrease or increase in size. In a standard size range this POM ‘grades’ 1-2 inches between sizes. If your sample size is M and you are making a size L, you’d make the chest 2 inches larger: 12 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V Fig. Setting grading rule for chest circumference The/A grade rule library is basically a collection of grade rules. It is used to grade the whole pattern according to the desired size specifications. Grade libraries vary according to design features, fabric properties and the type of grade. For example, the grade library for a knit pair of pants will be different from the grade library of woven pants in the same style. Fig. Grade rule library for a men’s jacket 13 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V Pattern making process is required to run an apparel business smoothly. Accuracy in pattern decides garment quality. With the time, everything is coming in software so pattern making cannot be an exception. Before it accomplished manually, but now it is quite impossible to run it perfectly considering time, situation and business volume. Manual pattern making task was tough and clumsy because all tasks handled by a skilled technician. Now it become very easy due to the advancement of computer technology. The pattern making software is a part of CAD system. Abbreviation of CAD is Computer Aided Designing. A CAD system is used for pattern making as well as for marker making and pattern grading. Other than garment business, many professionals use the CAD system to provide pattern making services. Pattern making is a system where a pattern maker can transform a sketch into a digital image and then can be printed through a plotter. The efficiency and overall profit & loss of the industries depend on pattern making and marker making efficiency. Thus, a proper CAD software should be chosen. Common Features Provided by any Pattern Making Software Pattern Making All the above listed software provides pattern making tools to make pattern faster and accurately Digitizing Many time buyer gives a manual block and by using digitizer, manual blocks are transferred in to software to alter in to required shapes. After alteration these patterns are used for further process. Pattern Grading In this process, patterns of different sizes are produced from the original master pattern. In the tech pack grading chart is given – Pattern maker follow that grading chart and then do grading. Digitally graded pattern blocks are perfected for each size and digitally checked for accuracy for each size before proceeding to final bulk production. Marker Making After pattern making by using tools or by altering pattern from digitization- grading is done. After grading the next process is marker making. Marker efficiency is the percentage of total fabric that is actually used in garment parts. This is determined automatically by marker making software. Marker efficiency is the most important part of garment manufacturing as this is 14 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V directly connected to fabric cutting and how much fabric may waste during the production. Fabric utilization directly affects costing so all software making companies are continuously working hard to provide special features to get maximum efficiency. 3D Visualization and Simulation This program is getting popular in apparel industry. Many are working on 3D virtual fit simulation. How any design will look with a particular drape property can be visualized with 3D simulator. These are some common features provided by the pattern making software, one can always learn more about the software by visiting their official website, and by knowing individual features. CAD-CAM plays wide-ranging and extensive applications. To have an elegant and competent work almost every machine can be interfaced with computer. By knowing the steps of clothing construction and fashion designing, CAD-CAM technologies uses in fashion designing can be illustrated well because in each step use of CAD-CAM can develop the process. Digitizer: Since it digitizes and simplifies the entire design process, CAD software has all but replaced the traditional drawing board. Recent CAD software affords opportunity to stay away from small operations and manual work, to lift up meticulousness, productivity and organize information flow. The usage of garment designing systems eliminates the time-consuming, creation of layouts and repositioning of written information. The computer systems are meant for the execution of every single process and the integration of all processes into one joint flow, for the organization of logistics and the mobility of work tasks. CAD for students: The students of the Institute of Textile Materials Technologies and Design, are enrolled with different levels of training – with and without knowledge in garment designing. Preliminary knowledge of the students is superficial or feeble and needs to be enhanced. Apparel designing taught about sketching, constructing, designing and gradation of templates. To gain knowledge of CAD-CAM software in textile, there are many software, they are as follows Grafis, Comtense, Staprim, Lectra, Gerber and Koppermann. Students should obtain understanding on the formation of the clothing CAD system Lectra development ethics and utility on the basis of Modaris V6R1; the principles of garment pattern design; the rules of pattern grading by size; the definition of a style and its 15 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V versions; marker making subsystem Diamino V5R4; choice of styles and sizes; creating markers on fabrics with definition and changing parameters; preproduction garment specifications using KaledoStyle V2R2; preparation of pattern blocks for 3D imitation in CAD. The gaining of systems takes place together with practical apparel designing – the manually accomplished tasks are performed on the computer afterwards with the help of the CADCAM systems. Thereby, the existent knowledge is extended, new knowledge is acquired and work productivity and the usage of CAD-CAM systems is favored. Marker Planning Marker Marker is a long thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for different sizes for a particular style of garments. It is planned in such a way that fabric wastage would be least. Fig. Example of a Marker By making a marker it is possible to achieve more benefit by producing a garment with reduced wastage. Normally the width of a marker is kept according to the cutable width of the fabric and the length of a marker normally depends on the number and sizes of pattern placed on a marker. The length also depends on1. Number of garments to be produced from a spread lay 2. Length of cutting table 3. Production planning etc. For marker making, white paper or newsprint paper is used. At first all large patterns are placed on the marker. After that small sized patterns are placed in between the gaps of large patterns. In 16 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V this way higher marker efficiency can be achieved. To produce a marker with better efficiency, a very efficient marker maker is required. Purpose of Marker Making 1. Using the least amount of fabric to produce a garment and make industry profitable every time. 2. To cut huge amount of fabric in short time. 3. To calculate the consumption for a particular style. 4. For cutting large amount of fabric using less people.  To cut the fabric with perfection according to the measurement.  To make a perfect production plan. Points to be considered before Marker Making  Fabric width must be higher than the marker width(1/2+1/2″”)  Fabric length must be higher than the marker length(1”+1”)  When the pattern pieces are laid down on the layer of fabric, the grain line should be parallel to the line of the warp in a woven fabric and wales in a knit fabric. Where pattern pieces are laid across the layer, the grain line is kept parallel to weft/course.  All the pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when laid down on an asymmetric fabric.  Length of cutting table should be considered.  Plan for garments production should also be considered. For efficient marker planning, it is required to ensure the following things:  One should easily see the full length.( Applicable for manual marker making)  To know about the appropriate width/ Cutable width of the fabric.  The marker starts with the large pattern pieces. Then fits the smaller pieces in the gap of the larger pieces. Thus the fabric wastage is minimized and efficiency is increased. (It is the common technique) ü After that the patterns are shuffled in various directions to reduce the marker length. It also helps to increase marker efficiency Computer application in Marker making Marker can be made either in i) Manual method or in ii) Computerized method. 1. Manual Method: 17 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V The method of marker making which is done by the hand of people with his own planning is known as manual method of marker making. In this method physical & mental industry is necessary. Manual method is of two types: a) Marker planning with full size pattern. b) Marker with minimized pattern. a) Marker planning with full size pattern:  In this method, all patterns are in full dimension according to standard measurement.  Hard patterns are placed on paper or on fabric and then all patterns are marked by turning different direction to minimize the fabric usage.  The tables, on which the markers are placed, are arranged in such a way so that they do no tilt.  Vacuum system is arranged under the table for suction.  This method is suitable for markers of shorter length. When different sizes of patterns are taken for making a marker, in that case it is not useful. Constraints of Marker Planning Though we always want to plan marker with highest efficiency to confirm the highest use of fabrics but it is always not possible to place the pattern pieces as desired. This occurs because during planning marker we have to maintain some requirements. The constraints for which we cannot plan marker as desired are as1. The nature of the fabric, desired shape and style of the garments. 2. The requirements of quality of cutting. 3. The requirements of production planning 1. The nature of the fabric: Pattern alignment in relation to the grain line of the fabric: Pattern pieces must carry the grain line when they are laid down on the marker paper & the grain line should be parallel to the warp or wales. When laid across the fabric then the grain line should be parallel to weft or course. If marker planner does not pay proper attention to the grain line, the finished garment will not hang or drape correctly when worn. It restricts the freedom of marker planner. Fabric symmetry or asymmetry: 18 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V Many fabrics can be turned 1800 and retain the same appearance which is termed symmetrical. They require no special attention during marker making. Asymmetrical fabrics are those which show different appearance when they are turned 1800. Example of this type of fabric is pile fabric. The marker should be planned in such a way that it is in accordance with symmetry of the fabric. All pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when laid on an asymmetric fabric. It is also one kind of restriction for a marker planner. Characteristics of garment design: If a vertical stripe does not show a complete mirror image repeat, the right and left sides of a garment (along the CFL) may not be mirror images to each other. In this case the pattern pieces should be placed on checks or stripes in such a way that the design matches when sewing up. 2. The requirements of quality of cutting:  For majority of cutting situation when a knife blade is used, the placement of the pattern pieces in the marker must give freedom for knife movement. A blade which has even normal width cannot turn a right angle in the middle of the pattern piece. For this reason space must always be allowed for a knife to turn such curves. The amount of space depends on actual cutting method employed.  The number of pattern in a marker must be counted just after finishing the marker making process. If the number of pattern is improper & fabric is cut, then the problem will arise during sewing. That time it will cause huge loss of time & money. For example, if there are six individual sizes pant & each size of pant contains sixteen patterns, so the total number of pattern should be 6X16=96. These 96 patterns must have to be calculated in above the marker after marker making.  Correct labeling of cut garment parts is essential to identify correctly the components of whole garment. It is essential for the marker planner to code each pattern pieces with its sizes as the marker is planned. This will help to avoid the mixing of pattern of one size to another size. 3. The requirements of production planning: When an order is placed for a quantity of garments, normally specifies a quantity of each size & color. The quantity of garments is expressed in Dozen. In the work order/ Order sheet the quantity of garments are clearly mentioned according to the size & color. Example, The order sheet of women’s dress is given of 1500 dozen, in which 600 dozen is white, 600 dozen is blue 19 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V & 300 dozen is of cream color. Sizes will be 15, 16, 17 & 18 and ratio will be 2:4:4:2. If the sewing room requires the cut work urgently, the marker planner makes two markers: 1. Short marker. 2. Long marker. For long marker, it can be made according to the size proportion and different size. The process is very much efficient but takes more time & increase shade variation. Example, total 2+4+4+2=12 patterns of 15, 16, 17 & 18 sizes are drawn in a single marker in case of long marker. For short marker and for particular order two markers can be made. This process is less efficient but takes less time thus increase production. Small cutting table is enough to serve this purpose. Each short marker is near about half of long marker. Example, 2+2+2=6 patterns of 15, 16 & 17 sizes are drawn in one marker & 2+2+2=6 of 16, 17 & 18 sizes are drawn in another marker. So 12 patterns are divided into 6+6 of two short markers. From the above discussion it is clear that marker making & efficiency are directly related to production planning. So the marker maker should think about it before making the marker. Otherwise many problems may arise. b) Marker with minimized pattern:  Full sized patterns are minimized 1/5 part by a pantograph and the patterns are made up of hard paper or plastic sheet.  Marker is planned with small pattern pieces.  After making, snaps are taken by camera.  The covered area of pattern in marker is measured by planimeter.  Marker efficiency is measured by calculating marker area & pattern area.  Marker photograph and miniature markers are stored.  From more minimized marker, full size markers are made with more marker efficiency.  Sometimes, for pantographs’ problem, full size markers give more efficiency.  Suitable for large volume. 20 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V Fig: Pantograph Planimeter: An instrument for measuring the area of any plane figure, however irregular, by passing a tracer around the bounding line. Fig: Planimeter 2. Computerized Method: 1. This is the best method of marker making and widely used. 2. In this method, every component of patterns is kept in the memory of the computer and Grade rule is also mentioned. 3. Then the computer makes the marker by its pre-fashioned programming technique. 4. The information of patterns can be stored by  Digitizing System  Scanning System Digitizing System:  In this process, patterns are placed in the digitizing board.  Every portion of the components are send to the memory of the computer by clicking special mouse around the pieces. 21 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V Scanning System:  This is a special type of machine like photocopiers.  Working patterns are placed on the scanning glass and then marker is made in a selected size.  Grade ruler is used for making other sizes. Advantages Of Computerized Method: 1. Suitable for large-scale production. 2. Marker efficiency is higher than manual method. 3. Least amount of wastage of fabric. 4. If required, printout of marker is possible anytime. 5. Automatic grading. 6. Less time and manpower required, so production is higher. Disadvantages Of Computerized Method: 1. High initial investment. 2. Skilled operator needed. Difference Between Manual Technique And Computerize Technique: 22 Computerize Technique Manual Technique Computerized is the best method of marker making and widely used. Manual is not the best method of marker making and not widely used. In this method, every component of patterns is kept in the memory of the computer and Grade ruler is also mentioned. In this method, every component of patterns is kept in the memory of the marker maker and Grade rulers are not mentioned. small scale Suitable for large scale production. Suitable for production. Marker efficiency is higher than manual method. Marker efficiency comparatively lower. is Least amount of wastage of fabric. Large amount of wastage of fabric. If required, printout of marker is possible anytime. Printout of marker is not possible anytime. Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING Automatic grading. Only manual grading. Less time required, so productivity is higher. Productivity is lower. High initial investment. Lower initial investment. Skilled operator needed. Workable operator. without SEMESTER V skilled The information of patterns can be stored by – Computerized Marker Making: Computerized marker making method is of two (2) types. They are – 1. Automatic Marker Making 2. Interactive Method Automatic Marker Making:  In this process computer itself produces marker form different pattern pieces.  In the automatic marker making system, the computer makes the marker itself according to the command given to computer.  In this process, higher marker efficiency can be achieved but it is a time-consuming method, because computer use permutation – combination method to produce marker.  The modern systems however overcome this problem of time and now a days it is possible to get automatic marker only in 2 minutes with a satisfactory level of marker efficiency. Interactive method:  It is a common process, here the marker planner plan markers by interacting directly with the system through a computer screen.  Two horizontal lines are shown in middle of the screen which indicates the marker width.  A vertical line in the left indicates the start of the marker and right side is open at first.  All the pattern pieces are displayed in the miniature form at the top of the screen.  They are dragged & dropped in the marker area.  After placing of all pattern pieces, it is possible to see the data like marker efficiency, marker length, and marker width etc. information just below the parallel lines. 23 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V  After completion of marker making, it is saved in the computer memory & it is possible to take the printout of the marker any time. Difference between Automatic & Interactive method of marker making: Automatic Method Most efficient marker making system More time required to make marker Marker is made by previously planned data Interactive Method Less efficient than automatic system Comparatively less time required Marker is made by a manual-computer combination Small size patterns are displayed in computer All the pattern pieces are displayed in screen, but full size in computer memory miniature at the top of screen. Computerized marker Computerized marker making is more accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for pattern manipulation, marker efficiency, reuse of previously made markers, and shortest response time. Production patterns may be developed on the computer and/or digitized or scanned into the computer. In addition, parameters for markers are entered into the computer from cutting orders. These might include style numbers, size distribution, and fabric width. Technicians manipulate pattern images on computer screens and experiment with various configurations to determine the best material utilization for the marker. Protective devices are built into the programs to ensure grain alignment and prevent overlapping or omission of pieces or other errors. Once markers have been planned and stored, they can be printed or recalled and modified for new cutting orders. With newer marker-making software, markers can be automatically created. A computer can automatically develop different markers according to the criteria set by a technician. Automated marker making may be used to determine yardage requirements and fabric costs for designs prior to line adoption. Other firms use automated marker making to generate their markers. With automatic marker making, a 50- piece marker can be generated on the computer screen in less than a minute. Plotting Plotting is the process of drawing or printing pattern pieces or markers on paper so they can be reviewed or cut. Computer-driven plotters may draw pattern pieces, graded nests of patterns, and/or markers with complete annotation, depending on the needs of the apparel firm. New multi-head jet plotters are much faster and can print variable line density and width, text 24 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V identification information, and bar codes. Plotting may be the bottleneck in the pre-production processes if a firm runs a lot of copies. Firms using computerized cutters may not need paper markers to guide the cutting process and therefore may only print identification information for bundles. Computerized Method This is the best method as it gives higher marker efficiency. In this method, the pattern size, pattern pieces, grade rule, screening are fed to the computer and set in the memory which produces maker automatically. This method normally is a part of an integrated system which includes: 1. Digitizing system: In this system, the working patterns are placed on to the digitizing board/table, then clicking according to the pattern dimensions. 2. Scanning system: Scanner is one kind of machine like photo copier. The working patterns are placed on to the glass of the scanner and then marker is made for a selected size. Advantages of computerized method over manual method 1. Suitable for large scale of production. 2. Marker efficiency is higher than that obtained in manual method. 3. Least fabric wastage. 4. Low production cost. 5. Marker can be printed out if necessary. 6. Grading of the pattern could be done automatically. 7. Few time assumption. 8. Disadvantages compared to manual method 9. Initial investment is high. 10. Skilled operator is greatly necessary. Difference between manual and computerized method of marker making: 25 Manual method Computerized method Suitable for small amount of production. Used for large scale of production. Marker efficiency is lower. Higher Initial investment is not high. Higher It is usually a slower method. Quicker method Production cost is high. Low Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING Fabric wastage is high. Low Can not be copied as and when wish. Can be copied as and when desired. SEMESTER V Marker Efficiency: The ratio between the areas of all required patterns in the marker to the area of the marker which is expressed as a percentage is known as marker efficiency. Marker Efficiency = (Area of all patterns in the marker/ Total area of the marker) X 100 The marker planner measures his success by the efficiency of the marker plan. Higher the marker efficiency, lower will be the fabric wastage & profit will be high. Factors Related To Marker Efficiency: The following factors are related to marker efficiency Marker Planner: Marker efficiency depends on the experience, honesty, sincerity & technological knowledge of the planner. The more the number of markers practiced for a particular style, the more is the possibility to get higher efficiency. Size of Garments: The more the number of pattern sizes are included, the more possibility to get more efficiency, but excessive number of pattern sizes, may cause problem. Marker Length: Higher the marker length, higher will be the efficiency, but excessive marker length may cause a problem. Pattern Engineering: Marker efficiency can be increased by changing the pattern design (Suppose, a big component can be divided into two parts), but should be very careful about the final appearance. Fabric Characteristics: Symmetrical fabrics are those which are similar to all directions. Marker efficiency is good in those types of fabrics. However, marker efficiency will be less for asymmetrical fabrics. Especially in case of stripe & check fabrics, the tendency of lower marker efficiency is higher.  Symmetric fabric = Marker Efficiency (Higher).  Asymmetric fabric = Marker Efficiency (Lower).  In case of check & Stripe fabric == Marker Efficiency (Lower). 26 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V Marker Making Method: Marker can be made by two methods. One is manual & other computerized. Computerized marker is more efficient when it is done interactively with the planner. So marker efficiency varies from method to method. Sometimes a skilled operator can make more efficient marker than computer. Marker Width: Marker width normally depends on the fabric width. The more the fabric width, this is easier to plan or make marker by the marker maker which will increase the efficiency. This may not be applicable for tubular fabric. Style of Garments: There are some garments which have only large patterns such as overcoat. If there is less number of small components, the marker will be less efficient. Because after placing large patterns, no small patter to place in the gaps. So the gaps remain unused and hence fabric wastage occurs. Computerized Marking on Paper: When the marker planning is finished on the computer screen, then that marker is stored in the computer memory. As a result, that marker can be displayed on the screen any time. The printout of the marker can be obtained from the plotter attached to the computer. The markers that are drawn or copied with the help of computer, they are very beautiful and accurate. With the help of a beam and a pen in computer plotter, the image of each pattern is drawn by their combined movement. If there is big plotter, then full size pattern is obtained and if there small plotter, mini size marker can be drawn. Generally a computer is given instructions at night for multiple copies. As a result the computer and the plotter themselves copy the marker whole night without presence or assistance of anybody. The required papers for marker are kept store in rolls at one side of the table from where paper is supplied continuously. For shrinkable fabrics, the pattern larger than requirement, for example 1% longer patterns also can be drawn with the help of computer. Computer aided marker drawing and copying is the best and accurate method, but its initial investment cost is very high. If there is computer controlled cutting arrangement, then there is no need of marker drawing and copying. Because using only disc, the computer controlled fabric cutting knife can be operated. 27 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V Benefit of CAD in Marker planning and grading The main objective of the CAD system is making digital patterns, 3D simulation of the garment sample, pattern grading, checking the garment fitting, and quick correction of patterns based on the fit comment. 1. Eliminate manual steps in the design process. You can reduce manpower and improve the performance of the pattern making department. 2. Draft the garment pattern from scratch. Drafting a 2D pattern in the computer can be done by using CAD tools provided by the CAD provider. 3. Digitize existing hard-copy patterns. You might have made the paper patterns which is ready with you and approved by the buyer. You can digitize those hard-copy patterns in the CAD and store digitally. 4. Edit and finalize existing digital patterns easily. Pattern editing, pattern grading, and checking of the digital patterns can be electronically. 5. Store and restore digital patterns easily. You can save your designs (patterns) developed in the CAD and easily restore when you need. Copy and paste of the existing pattern can be done. 6. Visualize measurements of different styles and gain control of internal features such as notches, buttons, and drill holes. 7. Walk a pattern while you correct the shape, add or adjust details, and import patterns with every layer intact. 8. Darts, seam allowance, special corners, advanced measurement techniques, pleats, curves, and facings, are all fitted to trade, to meet the needs of customers across a wide range of product and style types. 9. Importing and exporting of patterns file to and from all major CAD formats is possible. 10. Make digital marker. After pattern making, you can prepare the marker with hundreds of combination and see on the computer screen which combination gives you the best utilization of fabric. It is called as nesting. You can take printout of the maker and use the maker in the fabric lay for cutting 11. Mini-marker printout. You can take a printout of the mini-marker, which is used for material consumption calculation. The same can be filed in the production file and given to vendors or CMT factories. 28 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA ADVANCED COMPUTER APPLICATION IN CLOTHING Unit - IV COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN DESIGNING SEMESTER V 12. Estimate material consumption. In manual method fabric consumption is calculated based on the patterns and a marker of the average size garment. With the CAD system, you can calculate size wise fabric consumption in various marker-ways. This would help you optimize the fabric consumption and cost in fabric sourcing. Even you can prepare a separate marker for the different fabrics width. All these benefits altogether reduce the sample development time, reduce the cost of sample development, and better fit for some kind of garments. ************* 29 Prepared by GOPALAKRISHNAN D & Mrs.LAKSHMIPRIYA