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Exp Dermatol. 2010 Sep;19(9):813-20. Epub 2010 Jul 2. Azelaic acid modulates the inflammatory response in normal human keratinocytes through PPARgamma activation. Mastrofrancesco A, Ottaviani M, Aspite N, Cardinali G, Izzo E, Graupe K, Zouboulis CC, Camera E, Picardo M. Laboratorio di Fisiopatologia Cutanea e Centro Integrato di Metabolomica, San Gallicano Dermatologic Institute IRCCS, Rome, Italy. Abstract Azelaic acid (AzA), a nine-carbon dicarboxylic acid, is an agent for the topical treatment of acne. It has also been shown to be effective in rosacea; however, the mechanism of action has not been clarified. Because inflammation is a common feature of both conditions, we investigated the effects of azelaic acid on the inflammatory response of normal human keratinocytes to ultraviolet B light, which is a photosensitizer agent in rosacea. AzA, at 20 mM, a concentration achievable following topical application of a 15% gel, suppresses ultraviolet B light-induced interleukins-1beta, -6 and tumor necrosis factor-alpha mRNA expression and protein secretion. Mechanistically, azelaic acid significantly reduced the ultraviolet B light-induced nuclear translocation of nuclear factor kB p65 subunit and the phosphorylation of the p38 mitogen and stress-activated protein kinase. Moreover, as peroxisome proliferators-activated receptor gamma, (PPARgamma) which has a crucial role in the control of inflammation, is activated by fatty acids and products of lipid peroxidation, we further investigated the effect of azelaic acid on the expression of this nuclear receptor. AzA induced peroxisome proliferators-activated receptor-gamma mRNA and its transcriptional activity. The PPARgamma antagonist GW9662 abrogated the inhibitory effects of AzA on the UVB-induced pro-inflammatory cytokines release and on the cell proliferation. Our study provides new insights into the molecular mechanisms of the activity of azelaic acid and lands additional evidences for its therapeutic effects on inflammatory skin diseases, such as rosacea. PMID: 20545756 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE] Dermatol Ther. 2007 Sep-Oct;20(5):308-13. Skin lightening preparations and the hydroquinone controversy. Draelos ZD. Department of Dermatology, Wake Forest University School of Medicine, Winston-Salem, North Carolina, USA. zdraelos@northstate.net Abstract Skin lightening preparations are widely used in dermatology by persons of all Fitzpatrick skin types. Fitzpatrick skin types I-III require local pigment lightening for the treatment of hormonally induced melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation caused by acne and trauma. Fitzpatrick skin types IV and darker have an even greater need for skin lightening for social reasons, as well as pigmentary changes that occur around the eyes, in the intertriginous areas, following dermatitis, or with acne and trauma. The gold standard dermatologic agent for skin lightening was hydroquinone, until regulatory agencies in Japan, Europe, and most recently in the United States questioned the safety of this substance. This has encouraged research into alternative agents to inhibit skin pigmentation such as retinoids, mequinol, azelaic acid, arbutin, kojic acid, aleosin, licorice extract, ascorbic acid, soy proteins, and N-acetyl glucosamine. The efficacy and safety of each of these ingredients is examined as possible topical alternatives to hydroquinone. PMID: 18045355 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE] Cutis. 2006 Feb;77(2 Suppl):22-4. The use of topical azelaic acid for common skin disorders other than inflammatory rosacea. Del Rosso JQ. University of Nevada School of Medicine, Las Vegas, USA. Abstract Topical azelaic acid (AzA) is approved for the treatment of acne vulgaris and inflammatory (papulopustular) rosacea. Because of diverse mechanisms of action that correlate with potential therapeutic benefit, AzA has been used to treat several common dermatoses including acne vulgaris, inflammatory rosacea, erythematotelangiectatic rosacea, perioral dermatitis, melasma, and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. This article reviews the therapeutic use of topical AzA for the treatment of common skin disorders other than the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA)approved indications of acne vulgaris and inflammatory rosacea. PMID: 16566285 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE] J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2009 Jan;2(1):26-30. Rosacea, reactive oxygen species, and azelaic Acid. Jones DA. Department of Dermatology, Brigham and Women's Hospital, Boston, Massachusetts. Abstract Rosacea is a common skin condition thought to be primarily an inflammatory disorder. Neutrophils, in particular, have been implicated in the inflammation associated with rosacea and mediate many of their effects through the release of reactive oxygen species. Recently, the role of reactive oxygen species in the pathophysiology of rosacea has been recognized. Many effective agents for rosacea, including topical azelaic acid and topical metronidazole, have antiinflammatory properties. in-vitro models have demonstrated the potent antioxidant effects of azelaic acid, providing a potential mechanistic explanation for its efficacy in the treatment of rosacea Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2010 Apr;9(4):578-85. Photoprotective effects of nicotinamide. Damian DL. Dermatology, Gloucester House Level 3, University of Sydney at Royal Prince Alfred Hospital Camperdown, NSW, 2050, Australia. diona.damian@sswahs.nsw.gov.au Abstract Sun protective measures can reduce numbers of both precancerous actinic keratoses and cutaneous squamous cell carcinomas within relatively short periods of time even in high-risk populations. Sunscreens, which tend to provide greater protection against shortwave UVB than against longer wavelength UVA radiation, can however provide only partial protection from the mutagenic and immune suppressive effects of sunlight. In large part, this reflects poor compliance with proper sunscreen application and reapplication. Skin cancer is by far the most common malignancy in Caucasian populations, and additional strategies to reduce the morbidity and economic burden of this disease are now urgently needed. Nicotinamide, the amide form of vitamin B3, is an inexpensive agent which is used for a variety of dermatological applications with little or no toxicity even at high doses. Nicotinamide has photoprotective effects against carcinogenesis and immune suppression in mice, and is photoimmunoprotective in humans when used as a lotion or orally. UV irradiation depletes keratinocytes of cellular energy and nicotinamide, which is a precursor of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide, may act at least in part by providing energy repletion to irradiated cells. PMID: 20354654 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE] Int J Mol Med. 2010 Feb;25(2):249-53. Visualization of the melanosome transfer-inhibition in a mouse epidermal cell co-culture model. Kim HJ, Kazi JU, Lee YR, Nguyen DH, Lee HB, Shin JH, Soh JW, Kim EK. Department of Biological Engineering, National Research Laboratory of Skin-bioactive Material, Inha University, Incheon 402-751, Korea. Abstract Transfer of melanin-containing melanosomes from melanocytes to neighboring keratinocytes results in skin pigmentation. To provide a more practical method of visualizing melanosomes in melanocytes as well as in keratinocytes, we attempted to use murine cell lines instead of human primary cells. We generated various fluorescent fusion proteins of tyrosinase, a melanin synthesis enzyme located in the melanosome, by using green fluorescent protein and red fluorescent protein. The intracellular localization of tyrosinase was then examined by fluorescence and confocal microscopy. Co-culture of murine melanocytes and keratinocytes was optimized and melanosome transfer was either stimulated with alphaMSH or partially inhibited by niacinamide. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study showing that a murine co-culture model, in addition to human primary cell co- culture, can be a good tool for depigmenting agent screening by monitoring melanosome transfer. PMID: 20043134 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE] Int J Dermatol. 1991 Dec;30(12):893-5. The treatment of melasma. 20% azelaic acid versus 4% hydroquinone cream. Baliña LM, Graupe K. Source Department of Dermatology, Argerich Hospital, Buenos Aires, Argentina. Abstract The efficacy of 20% azelaic acid cream and 4% hydroquinone cream, both used in conjunction with a broad-spectrum sunscreen, against melasma was investigated in a 24-week, double-blind study with 329 women. Over the treatment period the azelaic acid cream yielded 65% good or excellent results; no significant treatment differences were observed with regard to overall rating, reduction in lesion size, and pigmentary intensity. Severe side effects such as allergic sensitization or exogenous ochronosis were not observed with azelaic acid. PMID: 1816137 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE] Evidence-based topical skin rejuvenation Alexander A. Navarini 1,* , Ximena Calvo 1,* 1 and Inja Bogdan Allemann 1 Department of Dermatology, University Hospital of Zurich, Zurich, Switzerland •these authors have contributed equally to this study, Corresponding author: alexander.navarini@usz.ch Introduction: A large choice of agents with preventive or rejuvenating effects is available. However, which ones should be chosen and recommended to our patients? The published clinical studies on the effect of topical agents in the reduction of facial wrinkles in vivo lack accepted measuring standards and defined endpoints. As a clinical indicator of efficacy, we noted the maximal clinical effect on facial wrinkles of each compound, together with the duration and type of each study. In addition, we compared the extent of epidermal thickening that the Clinical effects of compounds used to treat wrinkles % of amelioration of the parameter with the most improvement compared to target parameter at baseline Sum-up of study results Compound, formulation Duration of Type of trial study (cl, db-bld etc) 52% 51,6% (facial wrinkle counts) (p<0.05 comp. to baseline) niacinamide 4% 12 wks 51% 51% (mean improv. average roughness of skin surface by laser profilometry) (p<0.001 comp. to 50% 50% 12 wks tretinoin 0.05% 24 wks at least 50% improvement comp. to baseline in 55% of the treated patients (global response to treatment) tretinoin 0.05% 24 wks at least 50% improvement comp. to baseline in 67% of the treated patients (global response to treatment) 45% % increase in epidermal thickness Mean % of epidermal thickness compared to target parameter at baseline 75% 75% (epidermal thickness) 125% (rise n 17-βof dermal papillae) and 77% (n blood estradiol vesels) (p<0.01comp. to baseline and 0.01% p<0.05 comp. to control) Compound, Duratio Type of study Number formulation n of trial (cl, db-bld of etc) patients 24 wks 44.5% tretinoin 44,5% (mean increase epidermal thickness) (p<0.001 comp. to baseline but 0.05% p>0.05 compared to vehicle) Sex, Age Skin area tested rd, db - bld, comp 18/36 post-m wm, btw 45–55 facial skin daily at night Freq. of appl. Moraes, 2009 Ref. 58/359 41% 24 wks multic, rd, dbbld, vc and comp mn and wm, >=18 yrs facial skin daily at night Kang, 2001 38% estradiol 0.01% and glycolic acid 15% 24 wks rd, db-bld, split 22/65 face vc post-m wm, btw 39- 83 facial skin twice a day Fuchs, 2003 29.5% tazarotene 29,5% (mean increase epidermal thickness) (p<0.05 comp. to baseline but 0.1% p>0.05 compared to vehicle) 24 wks multic, rd, dbbld, vc and comp mn and wm, >=18 yrs facial skin daily at night Kang, 2001 27% 27% (increase in epidermal thickness, p=0.0046 compared to control) glycolic acid 15% 24 wks rd, db-bld, split 21/65 face vc post-m wm, btw 39- 83 facial skin twice a day Fuchs, 2003 24% 24% (increase in epidermal thickness, p<0.01 comp. to control) tretinoin 0.05% 24 wks mc, rd, dbl-bld, 62/125 vc mn and face, daily wm, 30- 65 neck, left yrs forearm and hand skin Lowe, 1994 23% 23% (increase in epidermal thickness, p=0.0045 compared to control) estradiol 0.01% 24 wks rd, db-bld, split 22/65 face vc post-m wm, btw 39- 83 facial skin twice a day Fuchs, 2003 20.8% 20.8% (epidermal thickness) and 36% (n blood vesels) (p<0.05 comp. to baseline) genistein 4% 24 wks cl, rd, db bld, comp post-m wm, btw 45–55 facial skin daily at night Moraes, 2009 16.5% 16.5% (epidermal thickness) (p<0.05 comp. to control) glycolic acid 20% 12 wks rd, db-bld, split 15 forearm vc wm, 51- 68 forearm yrs skin 12% 12% (epidermal thickness) (no SS measured) lactic acid 12% 16 wks open label 14 mn and facial skin twice a wm, 35- 50 day yrs Smith, 1996 9.1% 9,1% (epidermal thickness) (no SS measured) lactic acid 5% 16 wks open label 10 mn and facial skin twice a wm, 35- 50 day yrs Smith, 1996 59/359 18/36 twice a day Chiu, 2007 wm, 40-75 yrs periorbital skin twice a day Beitner , 2003 wm, 40- 55 yrs facial skin daily Barel, 1995; Samuel , 2005 daily at Kang, night 2001 tazarotene 0.1% 24 wks multic, rd, 16 wks and comp open label 41% (facial wrinkle cts), 6,8% (facial spot cts), 15.9% (facial pore cts), 16,3% (facial evenness cts), 16.7% (facial corneal moisture) and 10% (facial skin erythema) (p<0.05 niacinamide 4%+ kinetin 0,03% 12 wks rd, db-bld, 27 vc, split face comp. vitamin C 5% (Active C ®) 24 wks 59/359 mn and wm, >=18 facial skin daily at Kang, yrs night 2001 mn and wm, 35- facial skin 50 yrs asian mn and wm, facial skin 30- 60 yrs twice a day twice a day Smith, 1996 Chiu, 2007 rd, db-bld, 19 vc, split low neck/forear m comp. wm, 51- 59 yrs low neck and dorsal aspects of forearms daily Humbe rt, 2003 wm, 31-49 yrs facial skin twice a day Kawad a, 2008 db-bld, vc 14 ) 34% 34% (mean improv. wrinkle grade score, p<0.001 comp. to control and baseline) 11,3% (mean improv. in Ra: average roughness of skin surface, p<0.05 comp. to control and p<0.01 comp. to baseline) niacinamide 4% 8 wks rd, db-bld, split face vc 33% (overall global assessment grade) 29% (fine lines/wrinkles grade) 26% (skin roughness/dryness grade) 37% (skin hydration grade) (no SS measured) idebenone 1.0% 6 wks rd, db- bld, 20/41 comp. wm, 30- 65 yrs facial skin twice a day McDani el, 2005 33% (periocular wrinkle score) 25% (perioral wrinkle score) (no SS measured) mixture of human growth 24 wks factors and cytokines (PSP ® Processed skin cell proteins-) idebenone 0.5% 6 wks open label wm, 35- 65 yrs facial skin twice a day Hussai n, 2008 rd, db- bld, 21/41 comp. wm, 30- 65 yrs facial skin twice a day McDani el, 2005 argireline 10% O/W emulsion 30 days split periorbital, vc rd, db-bld, vc 10 wm periorbital skin twice a day x/20 post-m wm, 4560 yrs facial, neck twice a and forearm day skin BlanesMira, 2002 Haftek, 2008 18/35 peri or post-m facial and wm, 45- 60 yrs neck skin li 30% 30% ) 30% (overall global assessment grade) 27% (fine lines/wrinkles grade) 23% (skin roughness/dryness grade) 37% (skin hydration grade) (no SS measured) up to 30% (depth of periorbital wrinkles measured by skin topography, no SS measured) 29 11 29,5% (mean improv. global clinical score: hydratation, roughness, suppleness, fine and coarse wkls, radiance, lustreless, brown spots and skin homogeneity) (p<0.001 comp. to baseline) vitamin C 5% and madecassoside 0.1% (Redermic ®) 24 wks 29.1% (wkl count) 9.72% (wkl depth score) (p>0.05 compared to control) progesterone 2% 16 wks rd, db-bld, 29% (clinical score of overall severity, p<0.001 comp. to control) 23% (subject assessed overall skin appearance) 30% (subject assessed wkls, p<0.01 comp. to control) tretinoin 0.05% 24 wks mc, rd, db- 62/125 mn and wm, 30bld, vc 65 yrs 27% (periocular wrinkle depth measured by microtopography, no SS measured) CoQ10 0.3% 24 wks 25% (clinical score fine lines, p<0.05 comp. to baseline) 11% (clinical score wkls, p<0.05 comp. to baseline and control). By skin replica: 21.3% (mean total surface with wkls) 17.5% (Rz) 14,5% (Ra) 14%(mean length of the surface with wkls) (p<0.05 retinol 1%+ lactose 5%+ glycolic acid 4% 12 wks split periorbital, vc rd, db-bld, split face vc 25,5% (average roughness -mayor line-, p<0.05 comp. to baseline) 11,7% (average roughness -fine line and texture-, p<0.05 comp. to baseline) 20% (Shadow EW -fine line and texture-, p<0.05 comp. to baseline) (p>0.05 comp. to control) >110 growth factors and cytokines topical gel (NouriCel-MD ®) 24 wks rd, db-bld, vc 23% (red. skin surface volume) 52% (roughness) 76% (scaling) (measured by Visioscan) (p<0.05 compared to control) ectoin 2% 4 wks 21% (mean reduction RZ-D: average of the maximal depths of roughness) (p=0.0005 compared to estriol 0.3% 24 wks rd, db-bld, 24 split forearm vc rd, 30/58 comparativ e 20% (periocular score for sup. lines and wkl, no SS calculated) lactic acid 5% 16 wks 18,6% (periorbital wkl score, p=0.0005 comp. to ctr) 15% (perioral wkl score, p=0.01 comp. to ctr) 13% (cheeks wkl score, p=0.006 comp. to ctr) 8% (forehead wkl score, p=0.07 comp. to ctr) ascorbic acid 10% and 12 wks tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate 7% rd, db-bld, 10 split face, vc 18% 18.3% (decrease total length fine line/wkl by quantitative image analisis, p<0.10 compared to placebo) pal-KTTKS 12 wks 18% 18% (mean reduction RZ-D: average of the maximal depths of roughness, p=0.002 compared to estradiol 0.01% 24 wks rd, dbl-bld, 93 split face vc rd, 28/58 comparativ e 18% (overall assessment score, p<0.05) 22% (fine wkls score, p>0.05) 22% (mottled hyperpigmentation score, p>0.05) 42% (roughness score, p>0.05) (p value compared to control) lactic acid 8% 22 wks rd, db-bld, vc 17% (overall assessment score, p<0.05) 22% (fine wkls score, p>0.05) 14% (mottled hyperpigmentation score, p>0.05) 44% (roughness score, p>0.05) (p value compared to control) glycolic acid 8% 22 wks 17% 17% (periocular wkls score) 13% (perioral wkls score) (p<0.05 compared to baseline) 17% 17% (Shadows N-S) 0.06% (Ra N-S) (measured by skin surface image) (p=0.03 compared to control) 13% 13% (fine wrinkles score) 12% (global clinical score) (p<0.001 compared to baseline) 29% 29% 29% 27% 25% Methods: We performed a literature search in Pubmed among clinical trials with the keywords “skin” and “wrinkle” or “aging” or “antiaging”. The search was done within articles published in between 01.01.1999 and 01.06.2009; older articles were included if they were mentioned as precedent in newer articles and the methodology and results of the study were found to be appropriate and reliable. The search yielded 476 articles. We manually looked for clinical trials within the resulting list. The shaded lines in the tables indicate that no statistical relevance was reached or no relevant statistics were published. asian mn and wm, facial skin 30- 60 yrs 34% (global clinical score: hydration, roughness, laxity, suppleness, fine wrinkles and coarse wrinkles. P<0.05 comp. to control) 14,5% (Ra, average roughness by skin replica) and 13,2% (peak to valley mean of roughness by skin 33% Bernstein, 2001 Ref. 34% 33% twice a day Freq. of appl. yrs lactic acid 12% li Skin area 58/359 mn and wm, >=18 facial skin 45% (periocular score for sup. lines and wkl) (no SS measured) t b 38% (epidermal thickness, p=0.00018 comp. to control) multic, rd, db-bld, vc (p<0.05 comp. to control) Epidermal thickness increase by compounds used to treat wrinkles rd, db-bld, 25 vc, split face comp. rd, db-bld, 32 split face vc rd, db-bld, 17 split face vc Sex and age and comp (p<0.05 comp. to control) 50% different agents were able to elicit. lipoic acid 5% 50% (fine wkls score) 32% (overall severity of photoageing score) 21% (coarse wkls score) (p<0.05 comp. to control) control) Numb er of patien ts dt 25% b li d t l) vc daily Holzer, 2005 face, neck, daily left forearm and hand skin elderly volunteers periorbital daily skin Lowe, 1994 40 wm, 35- 50 yrs facial skin twice a day Bertin, 2008 30/60 mn and wm, 2565 yrs facial skin twice a day Mehta, 2008 20 Hoppe, 1999 wm, 30- 60 yrs forearm twice a day Heinric h, 2007 peri or post-m wm, 41- 67 yrs (mean age 53) facial and neck skin daily Schmid t, 1996 mn and wm, 3550 yrs - facial skin twice a day daily Smith, 1996 Fitzpatr ick, 2002 wm, 35- 55 yrs facial skin twice a day peri or post-m wm, 43- 66 yrs (mean age 54) facial and neck skin daily Robins on, 2005 Schmid t, 1996 24/74 wm, 40 -70 yrs facial and twice a forearm skin day Stiller, 1996 rd, db-bld, vc 21/74 wm, 40 -70 yrs facial and twice a forearm skin day Stiller, 1996 mixture of human growth 8 wks factors and cytokines (Processed Skin Cell Proteins; PSP®) vitamin C (Cellex-C high12 wks potency serum; Cellex-C International, Toronto, Ontario) kinetin (Kinerase ®) 24 wks open label 18 wm, 38- 65 yrs facial skin twice a day Gold, 2007 rd, db-bld, split face vc 19 mn and wm, 3672 yrs facial skin daily Traikov ich, 1999 open label 30 mn and wm, 3272 yrs facial skin twice a day 7% 7% (clinician rated overall appearance, p<0.05 compared to control) DMAE gel 3% 16 wks mc, rd, db- 105/15 mn and wm, 35bld, vc 6 60 yrs facial skin - 5% 5% (wrinkle length by computer image analysis, p=0.0005 compared to control) niacinamide 12 wks rd, db-bld, 50 split face, vc wm, 35- 60 yrs facial skin twice a day McCull ough J, 2002 Gross man, 2005 Bissett, 2005 placebo controlled double blind studies, accepted measuring standards 4% 4.3% (mean reduction wkl volume by PRIMOS system, p<0.05 compared to control) arctium lappa fruit extract 1,2% 4 wks rd, split face vc wm, 39- 65 yrs periorbital skin twice a day Knott, 2008 and defined objective endpoints are needed for the future. 0% no significant clinical improvement green tea cream 10% and green tea supplementation 300 mg oral 8 wks rd, dbl-bld, 13/30 vc wm facial and arms skin twice a day Chiu, 2005 Conclusion: Tretinoin reduced facial wrinkles (-29 to -50%) and induced epidermal thickening (+24 to +44.5%). Niacinamide (-34 to -52%) and lipoic acid (-51%) showed similar efficacy on facial wrinkles, while estrogens were less effective (-21% on facial wrinkles) but induced epidermal thickening (+75%). The phytoestrogen genistein induced weaker epidermal thickening (+20%) without showing convincing effects on wrinkles. Vitamin C had an intermediate effect on wrinkles (-34% to -29%). The collagen-inducing tripeptide pal-KTTKS (-18% wrinkles, no significant difference to placebo), ectoin (-23%) and kinetin (-13%), and green tea extracts had no effect at all. Taken together, a simple global analysis of efficacy shows differences between the agents already today, although higher quality randomized 23% 21% estradiol by Wilcoxon test) 20% 18% estriol by Wilcoxon test) 18% 17% 5% open label 10 38 facial skin