Abstract The medieval Kipčak burial at the Chungul Kurgan in the southern Ukrainian steppe presen... more Abstract The medieval Kipčak burial at the Chungul Kurgan in the southern Ukrainian steppe presents a seemingly paradoxical situation. On the one hand, the burial—here dated to the opening decades of the thirteenth century—is inserted into a previously extant tumulus of Bronze Age date, and the evidence of funerary ritual points towards the continuation of shamanist practices. On the other hand, the grave goods are largely composed of luxury objects associated with elite patronage among the sedentary societies of Western Europe, Rus’, and the Mediterranean zone. This juxtaposition is carried through in the partially preserved costumes excavated from the burial. These present features that recall elements of official court dress in Byzantium and in the neighboring Christian and Islamic polities. While several of the garments take the essentially Turkic form of the caftan, they incorporate in their applied decoration elements not normally associated with this particular garment. Close examination of the textiles from the Chungul Kurgan has revealed that they almost certainly represent the reuse of imported silks, gold-woven bands, and gold embroideries that came into the possession of the nomadic Kipčaks as gifts, trade items, or spoils of their raids on their sedentary neighbors. These include a panel of figural embroidery likely cut from a liturgical textile. Another group of embroideries and appliqués once formed a loros, the ceremonial scarf of Byzantine emperors, which was widely imitated in the dress and portraiture of other rulers in the region. A range of possible degrees of intentionality can govern the use of textile spolia—from strictly utilitarian reuse to the deliberately imitative, or victorious, appropriation of the insignia of another culture. The authors conclude that the way in which the textile elements were redeployed on the preserved garments represents at least a partial understanding of their meaning within their original contexts. Their reuse for the decoration of riding caftans incorporates the symbolic language of power and prestige that these insignia conveyed among the neighboring courtly cultures while preserving a distinctive, nomadic sartorial identity.
... In the meantime, I went to the University of Pennsylvania for a conference, where I met for t... more ... In the meantime, I went to the University of Pennsylvania for a conference, where I met for the first time Renata Holod who was the founding convenor of the Aga ... RENATA HOLOD, AHMET EVİN, SUHA ÖZKAN, Editors MODERN TURKISH ARCHITECTURE Page 2. ...
... The contemporary mosque: Architects, clients, and designs since the 1950s. Post a Comment. CO... more ... The contemporary mosque: Architects, clients, and designs since the 1950s. Post a Comment. CONTRIBUTORS: ... SPONSOR(S): ABSTRACT: Simultaneously published in London under title: The mosque and the modern world : architects, patrons, and designs since the 1950s. ...
Personal patronage the state as client commissions by local government bodies mosques for public ... more Personal patronage the state as client commissions by local government bodies mosques for public and commercial institutions local community projects worldwide Islamic centres in the West.
Abstract The present work introduces the first architectural energetics analysis of a medieval tu... more Abstract The present work introduces the first architectural energetics analysis of a medieval tumulus from the Eurasian/Pontic steppe. In contrast to New World earthworks, tumuli on the steppe were constructed 1) with sod taken from the environment immediately surrounding the construction site, 2) with the use of draft animals and metal tools, and 3) in identifiable phases as part of funerary rituals over a period of weeks or months. These variables introduce problems which are confronted through 1) the application of novel historically attested rates for construction and 2) the creation of new, replicable mathematical methods for modeling materials transport.
Abstract The medieval Kipčak burial at the Chungul Kurgan in the southern Ukrainian steppe presen... more Abstract The medieval Kipčak burial at the Chungul Kurgan in the southern Ukrainian steppe presents a seemingly paradoxical situation. On the one hand, the burial—here dated to the opening decades of the thirteenth century—is inserted into a previously extant tumulus of Bronze Age date, and the evidence of funerary ritual points towards the continuation of shamanist practices. On the other hand, the grave goods are largely composed of luxury objects associated with elite patronage among the sedentary societies of Western Europe, Rus’, and the Mediterranean zone. This juxtaposition is carried through in the partially preserved costumes excavated from the burial. These present features that recall elements of official court dress in Byzantium and in the neighboring Christian and Islamic polities. While several of the garments take the essentially Turkic form of the caftan, they incorporate in their applied decoration elements not normally associated with this particular garment. Close examination of the textiles from the Chungul Kurgan has revealed that they almost certainly represent the reuse of imported silks, gold-woven bands, and gold embroideries that came into the possession of the nomadic Kipčaks as gifts, trade items, or spoils of their raids on their sedentary neighbors. These include a panel of figural embroidery likely cut from a liturgical textile. Another group of embroideries and appliqués once formed a loros, the ceremonial scarf of Byzantine emperors, which was widely imitated in the dress and portraiture of other rulers in the region. A range of possible degrees of intentionality can govern the use of textile spolia—from strictly utilitarian reuse to the deliberately imitative, or victorious, appropriation of the insignia of another culture. The authors conclude that the way in which the textile elements were redeployed on the preserved garments represents at least a partial understanding of their meaning within their original contexts. Their reuse for the decoration of riding caftans incorporates the symbolic language of power and prestige that these insignia conveyed among the neighboring courtly cultures while preserving a distinctive, nomadic sartorial identity.
... In the meantime, I went to the University of Pennsylvania for a conference, where I met for t... more ... In the meantime, I went to the University of Pennsylvania for a conference, where I met for the first time Renata Holod who was the founding convenor of the Aga ... RENATA HOLOD, AHMET EVİN, SUHA ÖZKAN, Editors MODERN TURKISH ARCHITECTURE Page 2. ...
... The contemporary mosque: Architects, clients, and designs since the 1950s. Post a Comment. CO... more ... The contemporary mosque: Architects, clients, and designs since the 1950s. Post a Comment. CONTRIBUTORS: ... SPONSOR(S): ABSTRACT: Simultaneously published in London under title: The mosque and the modern world : architects, patrons, and designs since the 1950s. ...
Personal patronage the state as client commissions by local government bodies mosques for public ... more Personal patronage the state as client commissions by local government bodies mosques for public and commercial institutions local community projects worldwide Islamic centres in the West.
Abstract The present work introduces the first architectural energetics analysis of a medieval tu... more Abstract The present work introduces the first architectural energetics analysis of a medieval tumulus from the Eurasian/Pontic steppe. In contrast to New World earthworks, tumuli on the steppe were constructed 1) with sod taken from the environment immediately surrounding the construction site, 2) with the use of draft animals and metal tools, and 3) in identifiable phases as part of funerary rituals over a period of weeks or months. These variables introduce problems which are confronted through 1) the application of novel historically attested rates for construction and 2) the creation of new, replicable mathematical methods for modeling materials transport.
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