WO2014049390A1

WO2014049390A1 - A textile assembly with air and water vapor permeable elastomeric coating

Info

Publication number: WO2014049390A1
Application number: PCT/IB2012/055095
Authority: WO
Inventors: Malkanthi Chandima Batuwitage HEMAKUMARA; Achala Sajeeva SATHARASINGHE
Original assignee: Mas Research And Innovation (Private) Limited
Priority date: 2012-09-25
Filing date: 2012-09-25
Publication date: 2014-04-03

Abstract

The present disclosure relates to a textile assembly comprising textile substrate, fabric or garment made out of the textile substrate or the fabric comprising an elastomeric coating with air and water vapor permeability. An elastomeric material with predetermined viscosity is applied onto at least a portion and at least one side of the textile substrate, fabric or the garment made out of textile substrate to provide designed localized elastic modulus enhancements. The said elastomeric coating is embedded within the textile substrate interior, providing excellent handle, hand feel and drapability, low friction and possibility of reshaping with appropriate molding conditions.

Description

A TEXTILE ASSEMBLY WITH AIR AND WATER VAPOR PERMEABLE

ELASTOMERIC COATING TECHNICAL FIELD

The present disclosure relates to a textile assembly comprising textile substrate, fabric, or garment thereof comprising areas of enhanced elastic modulus, air and water vapor permeability, by way of coating said textile substrate, fabric or garment with an elastomeric material of pre-determined viscosity.

BACKGROUND AND PRIOR ART OF THE DISCLOSURE

In the field of textile and apparel, numbers of different techniques have been employed to achieve localized increase in power and elastic modulus on garments. In one method, fabrics with different elastic modulus properties are joined together by stitching or gluing. This method is not only time consuming but also the joints are physically and visually prominent, which gives discomfort to the wearer. In another method the textile substrate is reinforced by laminating an elastomeric film on top of the fabric in the areas where increased power and elastic modulus is desired using an adhesive. In this method, not only does the area become non breathable and bulkier but also a separate lamination process is necessary.

Using a similar concept, there is a method in which, certain area of fabrics are made with different fabric structures and yarn combinations, where change in elastic modulus is desired, using jacquard knitting technology and jacquard weaving technology. However, the level of elastic modulus variations achievable with this method is also limited and the process requires sophisticated machinery. Similarly there are products made by employing a thermoplastic yarn in combination with ground yarns, using either jacquard knitting or jacquard weaving technology in the areas where increased elastic modulus is desired. Once the knitting is complete the fabric is subjected to heat treatment where the thermoplastic yarn melts within the fabric structure to increase the elastic modulus in the desired areas. In this method, elastic modulus is increased by reduction of stretch which can restrict the wearers' freedom of movement. Although this method does not impair the breathability, it not only requires sophisticated machinery to produce but also makes the garment heavier and thicker in the areas of higher elastic modulus. In both the above cases, since the change of elastic modulus is done at an earlier stage of the garment manufacturing value stream, which is the fabric manufacturing stage, it dramatically reduces the process flexibility and hence the ability to respond to customers' dynamic requirements rapidly.

In the recent past, the techniques of using elastomeric coatings were heavily employed to achieve a similar purpose. There are a number of patents which describe the application of an elastomeric coating onto textile substrates and garments, from which some of them provide controlled stretchable properties on the applied areas. But none of these claim to have air permeability in the applied areas in addition to increase in elastic modulus.

Few of the patents and patent documents with some similarities along with major differences to the instant disclosure are as follows. Further, US 20100055334 Al relates to a liquid silicone rubber (LSR) composition useful for forming a breathable coating film on a textile, in particular, woven, non-woven or knitted fabric and synthetic leather for clothing, and a process for forming a breathable coating film on a textile. In this particular disclosure the word "breathable coating film" intends to mean a coating film which does permeate moisture (water vapor), but does not allow water droplets to permeate (water proof). Nonetheless, it is to be noted that in this prior art document, the elastomeric coating does not claim to impart air permeability to the textile and also the method in this document employs a thermo expandable material to achieve moisture permeability which forms cellular structure on the surface of the substrate which is very different to the surface morphology of the current disclosure.

Further, US 4,548,859 relates to sheet materials for providing vacuum passageways and to methods of making the same, and more particularly, to such materials in which a ribbed surface of and holes through a layer of breather material provide the passageways and in which the breather material is formed by shrink drying a silicone rubber release compound on a stretchable ribbed fabric. Nonetheless, it is to be noted that this prior art document, does not describe an elastomeric coating application for the end use in apparel and also the method in this document is limited to stretchable ribbed fabric. Further, this document also does not describe localized application of the LSR coating to achieve localized control in stretch. Additionally, US 20110083246 Al, yet another prior art document, relates to a garment comprising a fabric and an elastomeric coating on at least a portion of at least one side of the fabric to provide designed, localized stretch and support in a garment, wherein the elastomeric coating is located where reduced stretch of the garment is desired. Garments having structures to facilitate cooling and heating are also described. Nonetheless, it is to be noted that the garment is not imparted air permeability by the elastomeric coating. Further, the elastomeric coating of this prior art invention has a 3 Dimensional surface appearance due to the increased thickness of the coating material.

Further, WO/2009/042539, yet another prior art document, relates to laminated fabric construction with polyolefm compositions. More specifically, this invention relates to articles including multiple layer (comprising at least two layers) construction, wherein said layers comprise at least one, polyolefm composition. The polyolefm composition is stated to be placed adjacent or between the layers to provide stretch recovery, increase in elastic modulus, moldability, breathability, air and moisture/vapor transport and flexibility property for the article. These articles are stated to be formed into fabrics and/or garments. Nonetheless, it is to be noted that this invention does not disclose the property of retaining two-dimensional surface nature of the substrate after application of elastomer, without any additional processing. This invention also does not relate to application of coating in areas of the garment where restriction in stretch and enhancement in elastic modulus is desired. This invention suggests altering the film to make it porous, to obtain air-permeability which would require additional process steps. Further, the quantification of air-permeability is also not disclosed in this invention. There is also noticeable layer of elastomeric coating and hence increased thickness on the articles of this invention. Further, this invention uses the polyolefm layer to increase friction on the applied areas and not maintain it.

With the recent trends in the global apparel and textile industry there is a high emphasis for enhancing performance without compromising on comfort related properties like air permeability, moisture permeability, drapability and haptic properties as well as aesthetic properties. For certain applications like lingerie and sportswear comfort is of utmost importance along while maintaining aesthetic properties, in addition to performance. In cases discussed in prior art, the areas of elastic modulus enhancement is bulky and has different texture, friction levels and drapability properties to that of the base fabric, which affects the comfort properties. The bulkiness not only impairs the comfort but also the aesthetic value of the product. The aim of the present disclosure is to address the aforementioned disadvantages, by maintaining continuity of comfort and aesthetic properties throughout the fabric, while maintaining physical dimensions more specifically the thickness of the fabric where the enhancement of elastic modulus is desired. STATEMENT OF THE DISCLOSURE

Accordingly, the present disclosure relates to a textile assembly comprising textile substrate, fabric or garment thereof having an elastomeric coating embedded on at least one portion of at least one side of the textile substrate, the fabric or the garment; and a process for obtaining a textile assembly comprising textile substrate, fabric or garment thereof having an elastomeric coating, said process comprising acts of a) coating and embedding the textile substrate or the fabric or the garment with the elastomeric material on at least one portion of at least one side of the textile substrate or the fabric and b) curing the coated textile substrate or the fabric or the garment to obtain the textile assembly c) optionally, obtaining the textile assembly comprising the garment from the cured textile substrate or the fabric .

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING FIGURES

In order that the disclosure may be readily understood and put into practical effect, reference will now be made to exemplary embodiments as illustrated with reference to the accompanying figures. The figure together with a detailed description below, are incorporated in and form part of the specification, and serve to further illustrate the embodiments and explain various principles and advantages, in accordance with the present disclosure wherein:

Fig 01 shows the plan view of a garment made with the elastomeric coating on selected zones, where increased elastic modulus is desired.

Fig 02 shows a section of a fabric with the elastomeric coating applied with a shape of a brassier.

Fig 03 shows the garment panel of the brassier after cutting through the cut marks shown in Fig 02.

Fig 04 shows the plan view of the border of the non-coated and coated areas depicted by a circle in Fig 01, Fig 02 and Fig 03.

Fig 05 shows the cross section of the coated/non coated border marked by the dashed line A- A' in Fig 04.

Fig 06 shows an enlarged view of the area 508 demarcated in the Fig 05. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE

The present disclosure relates to a textile assembly comprising textile substrate, fabric or garment thereof having an elastomeric coating embedded on at least one portion of at least one side of the textile substrate, the fabric or the garment.

In an embodiment of the present disclosure, the textile substrate and the fabric are in piece form or continuous form, and wherein the coating is embedded on the textile substrate, or fabric where one or several parts of the garment's predetermined boundary lies.

In another embodiment of the present disclosure, the garment is made of the textile substrate or the fabric as above.

In yet another embodiment of the present disclosure, the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment are produced by method selected from a group comprising knitting, weaving, non- woven, electro-spinning or blow-spinning.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment are manufactured with one or a blend of fibre material, filament or yarn selected from a group comprising animal based fibre, plant based fibre, man-made fibre and mineral based fibre or any combination thereof.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, material for the elastomeric coating is silicone.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the elastomeric coating has viscosity in the range of about 3000cP to about 20000cP at the point of coating.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the elastomeric coating is applied onto the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment using techniques selected from a group comprising silk screen printing, screen printing and extrusion nozzle application, or any combination thereof.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the elastomeric coating is applied onto the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment to form a layer of coating having thickness ranging from about 0.1 micron to about lOmicron. In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment so coated have enhanced elastic modulus, wherein the elastic modulus increase is in range of about 50% to about 500% of original uncoated textile substrate, fabric or garment.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment so coated are air permeable, wherein relative air permeability is in range of about 10% to about 100% of original uncoated textile substrate, fabric or garment.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment so coated are water vapor permeable, wherein the water vapor permeability is in range of about 10% to about 90% of original uncoated textile substrate, fabric or garment.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment so coated retains dimension of original substrate.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment so coated are thermoformed to stable three-dimensional shape.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment are thermoformed using thermal molding process.

The present disclosure further relates to a process for obtaining a textile assembly comprising textile substrate, fabric or garment thereof having an elastomeric coating, said process comprising acts of:

a) coating and embedding the textile substrate or the fabric or the garment with the elastomeric material on at least one portion of at least one side of the textile substrate or the fabric; and

b) curing the coated textile substrate or the fabric or the garment to obtain the textile assembly;

c) optionally, obtaining the textile assembly comprising the garment from the cured textile substrate or the fabric . In an embodiment of the present disclosure, the coating is carried out by applying the elastomeric material onto the textile substrate, the fabric or the garment to form a layer of coating having thickness ranging from about 0.1 micron to about lOmicron. In another embodiment of the present disclosure, the curing is carried out by technique selected from a group comprising heat curing, ultra-violet radiation curing, moisture curing, infrared radiation curing, microwave radiation curing, steam curing and room temperature curing or any combination thereof. In yet another embodiment of the present disclosure, the heat curing is carried out at temperature ranging from about 80°C to about 200°C.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the curing is carried out for a time duration ranging from about 10 seconds to about 48 hours. In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the coated textile substrate and the fabric are cut through the coated predetermined boundary of the garment to get reinforcement in said boundary area of the garment.

The present disclosure relates to a textile assembly comprising textile substrate, fabric or garment made out of the textile substrate or the fabric comprising an elastomeric coating with air and water vapor permeability, made using an elastomeric material (of pre-determined viscosity) on at least a portion and at least one side of the textile substrate, the fabric or the garment made out of textile substrate to provide designed localized elastic modulus enhancements. Here, elastic modulus refers to the build-up of tensile force within the material at a given level of extension within the elastic range, in the direction of extension of the material. The said elastomeric coating is embedded within the textile substrate interior, providing excellent handle, hand feel and drapability, low friction and possibility of reshaping with appropriate molding conditions. The present disclosure further focuses on a textile substrate or fabric in piece form or continuous form or a garment made of similar textile substrate or fabric with an elastomeric coating, which provides solutions to the disadvantages related to the prior art mentioned above. The present disclosure describes a textile substrate or fabric in piece form or continuous form or a garment made of similar textile substrate or fabric with an elastomeric coating, on at least a portion of at least one side of the substrate or the fabric, wherein the coating is located in a portion of the substrate or the fabric where increased elastic modulus is desired.

In an embodiment of the present disclosure, the coated elastomeric substance lies within the substrate's or fabrics' interior, with only a thin layer, in the range of about 0.1 micron to about 10 micron, more specifically a layer less than 1 micron remaining on the surface of the substrate using a single application process followed by curing process, which does not affect the surface properties of the substrate. Further, the thickness of the elastomeric coating is dependent on the structure of the textile substrate or the fabric used and areal density of the coating during the application process.

In another embodiment of the present disclosure, the areas of the coating allow air and water vapor to permeate from one side of the substrate, fabric or the garment to the other side.

In yet another embodiment of the present disclosure, the surface morphology of the substrate, fabric or the garment in the coated areas remains two dimensional and flat throughout the coated surface and the boundaries of the coating.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the surface texture of the substrate, fabric or the garment remains unchanged in the coated areas, with unaffected haptic properties compared to that of the un-coated areas of the substrate, fabric or the garment. Further the friction level of the surface in the coated areas remains unaltered to that of the substrates surface and the draping properties of the coated areas remain similar to that of the original substrate.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the coated areas are thermoformed to a stable three dimensional shape using a thermal molding process with appropriate conditions.

In the present disclosure, it is to be noted that in the event the fabric substrate has moldability properties, this initial property of moldability is maintained subsequent to the application of the elastomeric coating. However, the application of the elastomeric coating does not impart the property of moldability to a textile substrate that is not inherently moldable. Measurement of moldability is subjective, which is quantified with reference to a given shape or size since there is no standard method for measuring moldability. Moldability can be broadly defined as the ability of a material to change its surface to a stable three dimensional shape with an external influence. The external influence for example is heat and/or pressure. In the instant disclosure, the moldability of the substrate is retained to an extent, even when the coating is a thermoset (materials which does not change shape physical form with heat) material such as silicone. Since the porosity of the substrate is maintained even after the application of the coating, the yarn/fibre structure is free to move and reshape when an external force is given. Once the reshaping is done the yarn/fibre structure is heat set to permanently retain the shape, even after the external force is removed. This process is facilitated largely by the areas of the yarn/fibre which are free of the elastomeric coating, in the coated areas (Fig. 6).

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the coated areas of the textile substrate, fabric or garment are thermoformed to a stable three dimensional shape using a thermal molding process with appropriate conditions (temperature, pressure, dwell time, shape of the mold.) Generally in thermoforming, the substrate is heated just above the glass transition temperature (T_g) or the softening point and well below the melting point and pressed to the required shape using a heated metal mold or pair of molds. Finally, the molded substrate is cooled to the ambient temperature to retain the shape. Appropriate conditions in this regard will vary in a wide range, depending on the properties of the substrate such as thermal properties, composition, thickness, structure, surface properties, elastic properties; and the properties of the elastomeric coating such as thermal properties, composition, thickness, elastic properties; and required shape and size of the molded area.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the coating is placed on the area of the textile substrate or the fabric where the final garments' intended boundary lies and then cut through the intended boundary with the coating to get reinforcement in the boundary area of the garment without doubling the substrate or the fabric at the boundary.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the textile substrate, fabric or the garment are produced with one of either but not limited to technologies such as knitting (Warp knitting such as raschel Tricot, weft knitting such as circular or flat), weaving, non- woven methods (blow spinning, staple nonwoven, spun laid, air-laid, needle punched, thermal bonded, hydro-entangled, chemical bonded and so forth), electro-spinning, blow- spinning etc.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the textile substrate is manufactured with one or a blend of either but not limited to fibre materials or yarns made with fibre materials such as Polyamide, Polyester, Polyolefm, Polyurethane, Polyacrylonitrile, Natural cellulose, regenerated cellulose, natural protein etc.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, textile substrate is porous, extensible and/or elastic at least in one direction. The substrate of the instant disclosure is made out of fibres/filaments or fibre/filament assemblies made from one or a combination of Animal based fibres such as Byssus, Chiengora, Qiviut, Yak, Rabbit, Wool, Lambswool, Cashmere wool, Mohair wool, Camel hair, Alpaca / Vicuna / Guanaco / Llama wool, Angora wool; Plant based fibres such as Abaca, Coir, Cotton, Flax, Jute, Kapok, Kenaf, Raffia, Bamboo, Hemp, Modal, Pina, Ramie, Sisal, Soy protein; Man-made fibres such as Rayon(Viscose), Acetate, Polyester, Aramid, Acrylic, Lyocell, Nylon, Spandex, Polyurethane, Olefin, PLA (Poly Lactic acid) fibre, Polylactide; Mineral based fibres such as glass, metal, ceramic etc.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the elastomeric coating material is one of either but not limited to a silicone, polyurethane, PVA (Polyvinyl acetate), acrylic, polyolefm, rubber, hot melt elastomer, cyanoacrylate, epoxy, polyvinyl acetate, plastisol, thermoplastic (including polyurethanes, polyesters, and polyamides), latex polymer, thermoset or a combination which are in liquid form or is converted to liquid form or a liquid dispersion at the point of application.

Properties of elastomeric material:

Adhesion- It is important that the elastomeric material or elastomer chosen has good compatibility with the chosen substrate, in terms of adhesion or bond strength. The elastomeric material so chosen especially needs to be durable to washing, abrasion etc. The elastomeric coating of the instant disclosure possesses this adhesion property.

Elastic properties - The elastomeric material or elastomer should have sufficient stretch & recovery properties depending on the application. For example for a high stretch/ low elastic modulus application, an elastomer with high elastic modulus properties may not be suitable. The elastomeric material of the instant disclosure possesses this elastic property. Viscosity - The elastomeric material or elastomer should be in liquid form at the point of application, with sufficient flow/self-leveling/penetration properties, to allow it to absorb/embed into the fibrous structure (in a structure such as a knitted or woven fabric where the liquid goes into the yarn and stays between the fibres of the same yarn or adjacent yarns (Fig.5 and Fig.6) and/or coat the fibrous structure (in a non-woven structure where the liquid makes a thin coating on the surface of the fibres, and makes a bond at contact points of fibres). These flow/self-leveling properties are dependent on the viscosity. If the viscosity is low the flow/self-leveling/penetration will be high and vice-versa. When the viscosity is high the liquid will not readily flow, self-level and penetrate into the structures as described above, but will instead stay on the surface of the fabric as a continuous film and/or partially in the structure, blocking the gaps between the yarns (in structures such as knitted and woven) or fibres (in structures such as non-woven) which diminishes or impairs the desirable properties such as breathability, softness/surface texture, low- friction and drapability. The aspect of change in viscosity affecting the property of fabric is inferred from (Table 1) of the instant disclosure.

Tensile properties - The elastomeric material or elastomer should have sufficient tensile strength which also depends on the application. For example for an application such as sportswear where high impact forces are involved, an elastomer with high tensile properties may be required. Whereas for intimate apparel, this might not be of high importance, since there is less impact forces on the garment. The elastomeric material of the instant disclosure possesses this tensile strength. In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the viscosity of the elastomeric coating liquid in the non-cured stage is within the range of about 3000cP to about 20000cP.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the elastomeric coating is mixed with one or more of either but not limited to, colour pigments, fluorescent pigments, flame retardant materials, low density fillers, in the non-cured form.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the application of the elastomeric coating is carried out with one of either but not limited to a silk screen printing, screen printing (Flatbed, circular or Rotary) a stencil printing, a doctor blade application or coating, a gravure coating, a spraying method, a transfer printing, an extrusion nozzle application or nozzle extrusion, sprinkling, pad printing, painting etc.

In still another embodiment of the present disclosure, the curing after the application of the elastomeric coating is carried out with one of either but not limited to heat curing, ultra-violet radiation curing, moisture curing, infrared radiation, microwave radiation curing, steam curing, and room temperature curing, depending on the properties of the elastomeric coating material type. A more complete understanding of the instant disclosure can be obtained by reference to the following specific examples, which are provided for purposes of illustration only and are not intended to limit the scope of the disclosure.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

A single jersey knitted fabric [Fabric 1/Garment 1] with 88%/12%:Nylon/Elastane blend and a weight of 290g/m² is fully coated on technical back side with the silicone gel with a viscosity of 15,000cP, using a silk screen printing process. The areal density of the elastomeric coating is controlled to around 100 g/m² by adjusting the print settings and the silk screen mesh size. The printed fabric is subjected to heat curing post coating at 140°C for 60seconds in a conveyer oven. The coated and non-coated fabrics are tested for fabric modulus at 40% stretch level, elongation at 7.5 lbf force using the test method Limited Brands LTD 03 (Stretch Fabrics - Power and Recovery). Also the level of air permeability is measured on the coated and non-coated fabrics with the Test Method: BS 5636: 1990. Similarly the coated samples are tested after 25 wash cycles of AATCC 124 and tested for same parameters. The results are shown in Table 1.

Example 2

A single jersey knitted fabric [Fabric 2/Garment 2] with 72%/28% Nylon/Elastane blend and a weight of 90g/m² is fully coated on technical back side with the silicone gel with a viscosity of 15,000cP, using a silk screen printing process. The areal density of the elastomeric coating is controlled to around 60 g/m² by adjusting the print settings and the silk screen mesh size. The printed fabric is subjected to heat curing post coating at 140°C for 60 seconds in a conveyer oven. The coated and non-coated fabrics are tested for fabric modulus at 40% stretch level, elongation at 7.5 lbf force using the test method Limited Brands LTD 03 (Stretch Fabrics - Power and Recovery). Also the level of air permeability is measured on the coated and non-coated fabrics with the Test Method: BS 5636: 1990. Similarly the coated samples are tested after 25 wash cycles of AATCC 124 and tested for same parameters. The results are shown in the Table 1.

From the results shown in the Table 1 below, after the coating, elastic modulus of both the fabrics are significantly enhanced ranging from about 70% to about 450% compared to the base fabric for different fabrics and stretch directions. It is also observed that air permeability is maintained above 55% for Fabric 1, and above 86% for Fabric 2, compared with base fabric, after the application of the coating. It is clear that both the fabrics have good wash durability even after 25 wash cycles, retaining more than 80% of the non-washed elastic modulus, after wash. Also it is clearly observed that air permeability has significantly improved after 25 washes.

Table 1- Comparison of modulus and air permeability before and after elastomeric coating with silk screen printing

All the measurements herein are given in comparison to the corresponding properties on the non-coated base fabric.

Example 3

A single jersey knitted fabric [Fabric 1/Garment 1] with 88%/12%:Nylon/Elastane blend and a weight of 290g/m² is coated on technical back side with the silicone gel with a viscosity of 15,000cP, using continuous extrusion nozzle printing. The areal density of the elastomeric coating is controlled to around 100 g/m² by adjusting the nozzle setting, and the extrusion pressure while the fabric is run at a speed of 2m/min. The printed fabric is subjected to heat curing post coating at 140°C for 60seconds in a conveyer oven. The coated and non-coated fabrics are tested for fabric modulus at 40% stretch level, elongation at 7.5 lbf force using the test method Limited Brands LTD 03 (Stretch Fabrics - Power and Recovery). Also the level of air permeability is measured on the coated and non-coated fabrics with the Test Method: BS 5636: 1990. Similarly the coated samples are tested after 25 wash cycles of AATCC 124 and tested for same parameters. The results are shown in Table 2.

Example 4

A single jersey knitted fabric [Fabric 2/Garment 2] with 72%/28% Nylon/Elastane blend and a weight of 90g/m² is coated on technical back side with the silicone gel with a viscosity of 15,000cP, using a continuous extrusion nozzle printing. The areal density of the elastomeric coating is controlled to around 60 g/m² by adjusting the nozzle setting, and extrusion pressure while the fabric is run at a speed of 2m/min. The printed fabric is subjected to heat curing post coating at 140°C for 60 seconds in a conveyer oven. The coated and non-coated fabrics are tested for fabric modulus at 40% stretch level, elongation at 7.5 lbf force using the test method Limited Brands LTD 03 (Stretch Fabrics - Power and Recovery). Also the level of air permeability is measured on the coated and non-coated fabrics with the Test Method: BS 5636: 1990. Similarly the coated samples are tested after 25 wash cycles of AATCC 124 and tested for same parameters. The results are shown in the Table 2.

Table 2- Comparison of modulus and air permeability before and after elastomeric coating with extrusion nozzle printing

With the analysis of the data in Table 2 it can be observed that similar change in modulus increase, and air permeability for Fabric 1/Garment 1 and Fabric 2/Garment 2 occurred for the extrusion nozzle printed fabric when compared with silk screen printed Fabric 1/Garment 1 and Fabric 2/Garment 2, with only a slight drop in modulus increase and air permeability.

Quantification of Breathability/Air permeability

A quantitative measure of relative breathability is given as Relative air permeability (AP_R) = Air permeability in the coated area X 100

Air permeability in the non-coated area "Air Permeability" is measured on the coated and non-coated fabrics with the Test Method: BS 5636: 1990.

The ratings are given according to the below guidelines.

Table 1A

Quantification of Elastic Modulus Increase

A quantitative measure of Elastic Modulus increase is given as Modulus increase (M_R) = Modulus in the coated area - Modulus in the non coated area X 100

Modulus in the non-coated area

"Elastic modulus" refers to the Modulus at 40% elongation measured on the coated and non- coated fabrics with the Test Method: Limited Brands LTD 03 (Stretch Fabrics - Power And Recovery)

The ratings are given according to the below guidelines.

Table IB

The below example will explain the effect of viscosity in the silicone coating on the breathability, hand feel and elastic modulus increase in comparative terms. Example 5

A set of trials are carried out using elastomeric silicone coating combinations of different viscosities. 2 types of fabrics given in Table 3 are employed as base fabric to assess hand feel and breathability properties after coating with the change in silicone viscosity. All other parameters are kept constant other than for the viscosity of the silicone. Summary of the results for Fabric 3/Garment 3 and Fabric 4/Garment 4 are given in Table 3 and 4 respectively.

Table 3- Fabric Details

Table 4- Hand feel and breathability change with the silicone viscosity-Fabric 3 and Fabric

Quantification of Hand-feel (Haptic Properties)

Quantification of hand-feel is a subjective measurement. There are several different aspects to the handfeel in this context of the instant disclosure, such as softness, surface friction, flexibility, two dimensionality (flatness or planer nature) drapability (ability of a material/substrate to closely maintain a shape/contour of a rigid/solid object when covered/wrapped/dressed with it) etc. As these aspects are not quantifiable, qualitative measurements instead are given in comparison to such aspects of the non-coated area of the fabric with the coated area, in the instant disclosure. For example a rating of "Excellent" is given if all the mentioned aspects of the coated fabric closely match the relevant aspects of the non-coated fabrics. Similarly a rating of "Poor" is given if all or most of the mentioned aspects of the non-coated fabric are significantly altered after the application of the coating. Intermediate ratings of "Good" and "Moderate" are given based on similar interpretation.

Both comfort and aesthetic properties are more qualitative and subjective, depending on the perception of the user. However, according to generally accepted guidelines mentioned above, these properties are explained on this context as below.

As described in the prior art section of the instant disclosure, comfort is a composite property which consists the aspects like air permeability, moisture vapor permeability, drapability and handfeel, softness etc. Some of these may also be interdependent.

The aesthetic properties in this context more specifically refer to the uniformity of the appearance of the coated areas, when worn on to a body. In most cases described in prior art, methods used make the garment bulkier/thicker and irregular, which will be reflected from the outside when worn on to a body. Also due to the stiffness or low flexibility of some of the prior embodiments, the drapability is impaired, which reduces the aesthetic value of the product. On the contrary, in the instant disclosure the elastomeric coating is fully embedded to the porous textile substrate, hence the surface of the substrate is two dimensional (flat or planar) and regular. When combined with the superior drapability, the flatness of the substrate will result in uniformity and smooth contours on the surface when worn on to a body.

Description of the accompanying figures:

FIG. 1 depicts a garment according to an embodiment of the present disclosure. As illustrated, an elastomeric coating 102 is applied to the garment 101 in predetermined areas. The elastomeric coating increases the elastic modulus of the fabric in areas where it is applied, thereby providing the garment with enhanced modulus over a specific area. Thus, a single panel of fabric is designed to possess varied elastic modulus features at multiple locations as desired. In FIG. 1, high modulus zones 103 are located where the elastomeric coating 102 is applied to the garment 101. The area 104 shows the boundary between of the coated and the non-coated fabric which is enlarged in the Fig 4 and Fig 5.

FIG 2 depicts a section of a fabric which is applied with the elastomeric coating according to the embodiment of the present disclosure. As illustrated, the elastomeric coating 202 is applied to the fabric piece 201 with a shape of front side of a brassier, in the areas where increase in elastic modulus is desired. The coating 202 is done in such a way that it covers the boundary 303 of the finished garment panel shown in Fig 3. The boundary is depicted as dotted lines 203. The coated fabric panel will be cut through 203 to get the garment panel 301 shown in Fig 03. The areas 205 are kept without coating, so that they have the elastic modulus level of the non-coated fabric. The area 204 shows the boundary between of the coated and the non-coated fabric which is enlarged in Fig 4 and Fig 5.

FIG 3 depicts the finished garment panel 301 after cutting through the boundaries 203 shown in Fig 2. The areas 302 covers the zones of the finished garment panel 301 where the increase in elastic modulus is desired and the areas 305 is left uncoated to have the elastic modulus of the base fabric. The boundary 303 made by cutting through 203 in Fig 3 is reinforced with coating 302 so that the boundary has high elastic modulus. Also the boundary 303 is supported by the coating 302 which is embedded inside the fabric, so that the fibre fragments in the cut edge of the fabric does not protrude. The area 304 shows the boundary between the coated and the non-coated fabric which is enlarged in the Fig 4 and Fig 5.

FIG 4 depicts the enlarged plan view of the areas 104, 204 and 304 shown in Fig 01, Fig 02 and Fig 03 respectively. As illustrated, the figure shows the close up of the yarn and loop structure of the knitted fabric employed for the garments shown in Fig 01, Fig 02 and Fig 03. The non-coated area 401 and the coated area 402 are separated by the border 403 indicated by the dotted line B-B' in Fig 4. On the coated side of the fabric shown in Fig 01, Fig 02 and Fig 03 the ribbed loop structures 404 and 405 run parallel to each other, in vertical direction of the fabric. The ribbed loop structures 404 and 405 are held together by the connecting yarns 406 and 407 in the knitted structure. The holes 408 and 409 between the ribbed loops 404 and 405 and the connecting yarns 406 and 407 help to transfer air, and water vapor from one side of the fabric to the other side. The ribbed loop structures in the coated area 405, maintain their physical dimensions similar to that of the ribbed loop structures in the non- coated area 406. Similarly the connecting yarns in the coated area 407, maintains the physical dimensions similar to that of the connecting yarns in the non-coated area 406, hence the holes in the coated area 409 will allow same amount of air and water permeability to that of the holes in the non-coated area 408. This is due to the fact that the elastomeric coating penetrates into the fibre structure, without leaving a continuous film on the fabric surface. There is only a thin elastomeric coating, left on the surface of the yarn structure once the application is done. Hence not only the coated area remains two dimensional, but also the surface texture and haptic properties of the coated areas remains unchanged from the non- coated areas This is further discussed with the illustrations in Fig 5 and Fig 6.

FIG 5 depicts the cross sectional view of the section demarcated by dotted line A-A' in Fig 4. As illustrated, the cross section of the ribbed loop structures 501 and 502 made out of bundles of fibres which are held together closely, by the internal forces within the structure. The coated and non-coated areas are separated by the dotted line B-B, which is analogous to the dotted line B-B' in Fig 4. The elastomeric coating penetrates through the fibre bundle down to the level 507 as shown in the Fig 5. The level of penetration may depend on several factors such as the pressure of application, the amount of coating applied, the viscosity of the coating in non-cured form, the porosity of the fabric and yarn structure etc. As earlier discussed the physical dimensions remain unchanged in the elements 502,504 and 506 in the coated area to that of the elements 501,503 and 505 in the non-coated area, with only a thin coating which is negligible compared to the dimensions of the yarn (less than 1 micron) of the elastomer remaining on the surface of the yarn. The holes in the coated area 506 and the holes in the non-coated areas 505 acts similarly in transferring air and water vapor through the structure.

FIG 6 shows an enlarged view of the area 508 demarcated in Fig 5. The figure clearly illustrates the cross sections of the yarns in the coated area 603 and the yarn in the non-coated area 602. There are interstitial spaces 604, 605 between the fibres 601 throughout the yarns 603 and 602. These interstitial spaces have effective diameters smaller than fibre diameter, generating strong capillary forces which facilitate liquid penetration in to the yarns 602 and 603. When the low viscose elastomeric coating is applied to the area 402 in Fig 4 the interstitial spaces between the fibres in the coated area 605 readily get filled with the coating, and embedded inside the yarn leaving only a very thin layer 606 on the surface of the yarn, before the curing of the coating takes place. The interstitial spaces between the yarns in the non-coated area 604 remain vacant, which provide additional pathways for air and vapor permeation. Hence the non-coated areas always show higher permeable properties, which is clearly understandable. Therefore, the present disclosure, relates to a textile assembly comprising a textile substrate, fabric or a garment made using the said textile substrate or fabric, wherein the textile assembly is coated with an elastomeric material on at least one portion of at least one side of the textile assembly and wherein the elastomeric coating is embedded within the textile assembly. The textile assembly so coated possesses the properties of air permeability, water vapor permeability, dimensional continuity (ability to retain the 2-Dimensional surface property of the textile assembly after coating un-affected) and other comfort and aesthetic properties such as drapability, softness, handfeel/haptic property, retention of surface friction, flexibility etc. The textile assembly of the instant disclosure further has the ability of being thermoformed into a stable 3-Dimensional shape. The present disclosure further relates to a process of obtaining the textile assembly comprising the textile substrate, the fabric or garment thereof.

Claims

We Claim:

1. A textile assembly comprising textile substrate, fabric or garment thereof having an elastomeric coating embedded on at least one portion of at least one side of the textile substrate, the fabric or the garment.

2. The textile assembly as claimed in claim 1, wherein the textile substrate and the fabric are in piece form or continuous form, and wherein the coating is embedded on the textile substrate, or fabric where one or several parts of the garment's predetermined boundary lies.

3. The textile assembly as claimed in claim 1, wherein the garment is made of the textile substrate or the fabric as claimed in claim 1.

4. The textile assembly as claimed in claim 1, wherein the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment are produced by method selected from a group comprising knitting, weaving, non-woven, electro-spinning or blow-spinning.

5. The textile assembly as claimed in claim 1, wherein the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment are manufactured with one or a blend of fibre material, filament or yarn selected from a group comprising animal based fibre, plant based fibre, man- made fibre and mineral based fibre or any combination thereof.

6. The textile assembly as claimed in claim 1, wherein material for the elastomeric coating is silicone.

7. The textile assembly as claimed in claims 1 and 6, wherein the elastomeric coating has viscosity in the range of about 3000cP to about 20000cP at the point of coating.

8. The textile assembly as claimed in claim 1, wherein the elastomeric coating is applied onto the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment using techniques selected from a group comprising silk screen printing, screen printing and extrusion nozzle application, or any combination thereof.

9. The textile assembly as claimed in claim 8, wherein the elastomeric coating is applied onto the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment to form a layer of coating having thickness ranging from about 0.1 micron to about lOmicron.

10. The textile assembly as claimed in claim 9, wherein the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment so coated have enhanced elastic modulus, wherein the elastic modulus increase is in range of about 50% to about 500% of original uncoated textile substrate, fabric or garment.

11. The textile assembly as claimed in claim 9, wherein the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment so coated are air permeable, wherein relative air permeability is in range of about 10% to about 100% of original uncoated textile substrate, fabric or garment.

12. The textile assembly as claimed in claim 9, wherein the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment so coated are water vapor permeable, wherein the water permeability is in range of about 10% to about 90% of original uncoated textile substrate, fabric or garment.

13. The textile assembly as claimed in claim 9, wherein the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment so coated retains dimension of original substrate.

14. The textile assembly as claimed in claim 9, wherein the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment so coated are thermoformed to stable three-dimensional shape.

15. The textile assembly as claimed in claim 14, wherein the textile substrate, the fabric and the garment are thermoformed using thermal molding process.

16. A process for obtaining a textile assembly comprising textile substrate, fabric or garment thereof having an elastomeric coating, said process comprising acts of:

c) optionally, obtaining the textile assembly comprising the garment from the cured textile substrate or the fabric .

17. The process as claimed in claim 16, wherein the coating is carried out by applying the elastomeric material onto the textile substrate, the fabric or the garment to form a layer of coating having thickness ranging from about 0.1 micron to about lOmicron.

18. The process as claimed in claim 16, wherein the curing is carried out by technique selected from a group comprising heat curing, ultra-violet radiation curing, moisture curing, infrared radiation curing, microwave radiation curing, steam curing and room temperature curing or any combination thereof.

19. The process as claimed in claim 18, wherein the heat curing is carried out at temperature ranging from about 80°C to about 200°C.

20. The process as claimed in claim 16, wherein the curing is carried out for a time duration ranging from about 10 seconds to about 48 hours.

21. The process as claimed in claim 16, wherein the coated textile substrate and the fabric are cut through the coated predetermined boundary of the garment to get reinforcement in said boundary area of the garment.