Tucked on the edge of Wailea Beach, Four Seasons Resort Maui is far more than the backdrop of the original White Lotus. The oceanfront property occupies one of Maui’s best beaches, with calm waters, soft sands and clear views of Lāna’i. From premier dining options like Wolfgang Puck’s flagship Spago to an infinity pool with state-of-the-art cabanas and ocean-front massage huts, this property has it all. The newest addition is Komo—an intimate, 50-seat restaurant where Japanese fare meets Hawaiian hospitality. Helmed by Tokyo-born chef and 25-year industry veteran Kiyokuni “Kiyo” Ikeda, this concept, opening Jan. 28, was three years in the making and pays tribute to time-honored traditional techniques, with a modern Maui twist.
Located in the open-air lobby, Komo is inspired by the island’s diverse landscape. Designed by Atelier Pond, the restaurant’s interior features a variety of organic textures from lava stone, richly veined quartzite and marble, which commingle to pay tribute to Maui’s volcanic history. Though patrons can choose to sit at intimate tables dispersed throughout the space, the 14-seat sushi bar is the star of the show. “It feels like a haven where guests can kick back and truly revel in the moment,” chef Ikeda tells Observer.
The lighting, by L’Observatoire International, creates a warm glow with golden-toned bulbs that work in tandem with the lush, tropical foliage to soften the structured, post-modern architecture. Large mirrors behind the sushi bar ensure that guests facing the bar get a glimpse of Maui’s sunsets.
Though the menu is sushi-centric, guests can expect a dining experience beyond the standard sashimi and maki roll. “At Komo, we want to bring something different by extending our focus beyond fresh fish,” chef Ikeda explains. “We use traditional aging techniques to help develop a stronger umami flavor, but everything we do, from sourcing ingredients to the final plating, is designed to give guests a memorable experience.” Even the soy sauce, made from three types of soy and a house-made dashi, is one-of-a-kind.
When ordering, patrons can choose between chef-driven platters or à la carte rolls and nigiri, but for the true Komo experience, try the signature Mystery Box, which is a surprise selection of rare nigiri that changes weekly. “From the energy to the quality to the surprises, the idea of the Mystery Box was inspired by my experiences at the Japanese fish markets,” Ikeda says. “Every week, we receive a special delivery from Misaki Megumi Suisan in the Kanagawa Prefecture.”
Even chef Ikeda doesn’t know what they’ll receive, challenging him and his team to get creative while giving guests an authentic taste of Japan’s diverse seafood selection. Some of Ikeda’s favorite deliveries thus far have included scorpion fish, Japanese sea bass (Suzuki), wild red sea bream and young yellowtail.
If you opt to create your own sushi spread, start your meal with the savory snow crab and caviar soba noodles. Though you might not expect it, this dish is served cold and boasts a rich, umami flavor that is met with soft soba noodles, with a subtle tang from the thin-shaved lime garnish. The yasai salad maki is a more refreshing starter featuring seasonal veggies wrapped in daikon, but it is the ginger vinaigrette that kept me coming back for more.
Though the apps start your meal on the right foot, save plenty of room before diving into Komo’s premium selection of nigiri. “The nigiri is made with our special shari (sushi rice), which is seasoned with matured sushi vinegar,” chef Ikeda tells Observer. “I want guests to slowly savor each piece, one by one.” In addition to clean and fresh pieces of tuna, salmon and scallop nigiri, Komo also offers more creative sushi under the “Sosako” section. The Yellowtail Sosako is topped with sansho, green onion, shiso and chili crisp, while the Bluefin Sosako is a rich combination of tuna, toro, caviar, truffle salt and kaiware.
In addition, Komo serves an elevated sake and beverage selection, curated to enhance the dishes. It is the only place in Maui to serve Sohomare Kimoto Junmai Daiginjo “Tuxedo” sake, made from the world’s finest “Designation A” Yamadanishiki rice. Other drink options include a premium array of Japanese beer and specialty cocktails like the shiso yuzu margarita.
The last piece of the meal isn’t an afterthought—you’re sure to end the evening on a sweet note with a decadent treat from executive pastry chef Ashish Thalakkat. The signature Hōseki-Bako “Jewel Box” is just as beautiful as it is delicious. “When I designed the desserts, I was inspired to create something that tells the story and essence of Komo,” chef Thalakkat tells Observer. “Our signature Hoseki-Bako Jewel Box reflects the dining style of a small-bite experience, where every detail matters.” Upon opening the box, guests are greeted by creations like a matcha raspberry roulade, a bibiki chocolate torte, a strawberry sake cheesecake and a yuzu cremeux tart, each of which is crafted in the image of a tiny jewel. “This concept mirrors the essence of Komo—a true jewel nestled within our resort’s lobby,” chef Thalakkat says. The dessert menu also features fun yet elevated takes on Japanese street food like taiyaki and mochi donuts.
“Komo’s design has a gentle beauty and elegance,” chef Ikeda tells Observer. “It feels like a haven where guests can kick back and truly revel in the moment.”
