Everyone knows that person who spends weeks sniffing around travel blogs, going deep into Tripadvisor rabbit holes, collecting Google docs from friends of friends, and creating A Beautiful Mind–style spreadsheets to come up with the best vacations and itineraries possible. In this recurring series, we find those people who’ve done all the work for you and have them walk us through a particularly wonderful, especially well-thought-out vacation they took that you can actually steal.
I have a 3-year-old son and traveling together is one of my favorite things to do. Of course, it can be extremely challenging at times. I don’t cover nearly as much ground as I did when I worked as a travel editor and a lot of the spontaneity has been removed. Spur-of-the-moment trips and long meandering afternoons in foreign cities have been replaced with travels planned months in advance and thought-out schedules. I know it won’t always be like this, so until I have a bit more freedom, I try to embrace the last-minute opportunities that come my way.
Over the summer a friend of my husband offered us a free place to stay in Paris. She was in town for several months filming a movie and they were going on hiatus, so her apartment rental would be empty. We had a small opening in our schedule where we could realistically make a trip happen.
I had been to Paris several times before — first, as a child with my family on the way home from Nice, where my grandmother grew up — and later for work, when last-minute trips were more of a regular occurrence. I wouldn’t consider myself an expert by any means, but I’ve been there enough times to know my way around and have a handful of favorite restaurants and shops that I like to return to.
My most recent visit, with my husband, Joe, and our son, Callum, had been a year prior, on the way home from a family wedding in Provence. Our long-planned return after COVID had been exhausting and underwhelming. Navigating diaper changes, nap times, and all the other trappings of early parenthood during a heat wave left me wondering if my beloved city breaks were a thing of the past. Planning a second trip so soon seemed questionable, but I had already done the research of what to see and do with a young child and had a handful of new spots bookmarked in an Instagram folder because, well, you never know when a trip to Paris might pop up. We booked our tickets to depart two days later and I’m so glad we did. It is one of my favorite visits to date.
Day 1
10 a.m.: Fly to Paris and settle into your apartment
It was my first time flying JetBlue internationally and I was impressed. The seats were roomy and the food was surprisingly good. My husband and I had an iPad loaded with Bluey and Scooby-Doo episodes for my son, but luckily, he slept most of the overnight flight.
Our luggage was carry-on, including my son’s WAYB Pico Portable Car Seat and Babyzen Yoyo Stroller (both fit in the overhead compartment), so after customs, we headed to the taxi stand at Charles de Gaulle. The taxi took us to our friend’s three-bedroom apartment rental in the eighth arrondissement. Her flight was leaving later in the afternoon, so we settled in and caught up while she finished packing.
Paris has many wonderful hotels, but I find apartment rentals to be more comfortable when traveling with my son. He can have his own room (which means we all sleep better) and we have access to a kitchen to prepare some of his meals. We booked this Marais-adjacent Airbnb on our last visit. The owner was easy to work with and I found it to be just the right size for our family of three. La Place Dauphine is a favorite from my travel-editor days. You can’t beat the location — a historic building on Île de la Cité — and the apartments, while small, are very charming. You can rent one or all six for larger groups.
3 p.m.: Fight the jet lag
The lack of sleep was starting to affect all three of us (my husband and I were ready for a nap and my son was running circles around the apartment). We headed out in search of coffee and a playground. It was the first week of August, when most Parisians leave the city for summer vacation, and the streets were noticeably quiet. Within minutes my son was asleep in his stroller. We made our way to Noir (8 Rue Saint-Florentin), a stylish coffee chain with outposts around the city. My husband and I ordered cappuccinos. From there we walked to the kids section of Jardin des Tuileries, a lush public garden in the center of the city. My son spent hours at the trampoline park, merry-go-round, and playground on our previous visit, but we could barely get him to open his eyes. We grabbed a table at Le Village (25 Rue Royale), a few minutes walk from the park, and settled in for an early dinner of wine, steak tartare, and paillard de poulet caesar (chicken caesar salad). My son continued napping through dinner — which meant my dreams of an early bedtime were unlikely.
Day 2
9 a.m.: Grocery shop for essentials
Feeding a 3-year-old on the go can be tricky, so I tried to start our days with a solid breakfast that I knew he would eat. While my husband and son slept in, I walked to the local Monoprix (13 Rue de Lévis), a French grocery store chain, for bottles of Evian, apples, sourdough bread, eggs, milk, and yogurt. In France, the yogurt selection is vast and can take up an entire aisle. I opted for a plain vanilla flavor from Bonne Maman because that’s what my son likes, but you can find everything from sheep and goat milk yogurts to dessert lactés (custards, mouses, and creme caramel). If you’re into French mom things, Isabelle Bertalami, an American mom in France, is an excellent Instagram follow. She shares grocery store hauls and had me on the lookout for her favorite butter with sea-salt crystals from an island off the coast of France.
10:30 a.m.: Sightsee and visit Museê Rodin
It is unseasonably cool for August and the weather called for rain, so we dressed warmly and packed our raincoats and umbrella. On our way to the bus we stopped at Lenôtre Courcelles (15 Blvd. de Courcelles), an upscale pâtisserie chain, for a madeline and fresh-squeezed orange juice for my son. This was my first time taking the bus in Paris and it felt similar to the process in New York City. We followed the schedule on Google maps and paid for our tickets on the bus with Euros. The route had us winding around the Arc de Triomphe and let us out a few feet from the Eiffel Tower. We didn’t take my son on our last visit and I regret not snapping a photo of him out front.
After attempting a few shots, all of which include my son in some sort of running pose, we headed to Museé Rodin (77 Rue de Varenne), the former home of French sculptor Auguste Rodin. The kids room has hands-on stations with clay and markers to color, a giant chalkboard, a slide, and a stage for climbing on. My son was immediately drawn to the slide and became fully engrossed in a game of tag with a few other children. Afterward, we walked out to the seven-acre garden, where he continued running around while my husband and I looked at the many sculptures. I appreciated how stroller-friendly the whole experience was — from the special entrance with ramps to the stroller check at Hôtel Biron.
2 p.m.: Eat a classic French brasserie lunch
Our next stop was Brasserie Lipp (151 Blvd. Saint-Germain), a Left Bank institution on the Boulevard Saint-Germain. Before we left for Paris, I did a quick scroll on AmiGo, a new-to-me travel app that offers curated recommendations from a small community of tasteful travelers, and this was one of the spots I bookmarked.
The restaurant feels like an elegant, less touristy, alternative to Café de Flore with dark wood interiors and waiters in black tuxedo jackets. My son and I shared the filet de boeuf, while my husband ordered the steak tartare and a plate of perfectly crisp french fries. For dessert, we ordered profiteroles glacées and Callum was delighted by the friendly waiter who made silly faces at him while pouring a small pitcher of chocolate sauce overtop.
3:30 p.m.: Dodge the rain and shop for souvenirs
We planned to spend the afternoon in Jardin du Luxembourg, but the weather wasn’t cooperating. We avoided the rain as best we could and made a beeline for my favorite French department store, Le Bon Marche (24 Rue de Sèvres). I could easily spend a few hours browsing the clothing and shoe sections, but that visit was for the toy department and food hall. They carry all the classic French toy brands (Moulin Roty, Djeco, and Janod) and Callum took his time picking out a box of pirate-themed French pastry toys. We headed across the street to La Grande Épicerie de Paris (38 Rue de Sèvres) for flower-shaped sugar cubes for my mom and chestnut paste (another Isabelle Bertalami recommendation).
From there we walked to more shops: Marin Montagut (48 Rue Madame) a delightful jewel box of a store with stationery, porcelain dishware, and hand-painted glasses); Astier de Villatte (16 Rue de Tournon) sells delicate handmade ceramics; and Officine Universelle Buly 1803 (6 Rue Bonaparte) a beautiful, old-school-style apothecary with an elegant selection of souvenir options, like scented matches and acetate combs and lip balm compacts that you can have engraved. Callum fell asleep on the walk back, so we picked up take-out near the apartment.
Day 3
10 a.m.: See kid-friendly art at Centre Pompidou
We spent our morning at Centre Pompidou’s (Place Georges-Pompidou) Les Plantamouves exhibit. The city’s largest modern and contemporary art museum usually has something wonderful on for kids and this show, in particular, was really special. Callum was in heaven running around the colorful plush sculptures and playing with the other children.
12 p.m.: Snack on garlicky olives and chocolate mousse in the Marais
We walked to the Marais for lunch at Chez Janou (2 Rue Roger Verlomme). It’s one of those Parisian bistros that is always filled with Americans, but the Provençal-style food is reliably good and I appreciate that you can get a table without waiting too long. The waiter brought around a small bowl of garlicky olives tossed in herbs de Provence at the beginning of our meal and Joe and I took turns pulling the pitts out for Callum. We ordered the entrecôte bistrot and risotto aux asperges vertes to share among the three of us and finished with a plate of the signature mousse au chocolat, served family-style from a giant bowl.
1:30 pm: Shop some more
We headed to Boulevard Beaumarchais to visit a few of my favorite shops. La Maison Plisson (93 Blvd. Beaumarchais) is a specialty grocer that reminds me of The Green Grape in Fort Greene. We stopped in to browse but didn’t end up buying anything. Next was Merci (111 Bd Beaumarchais), the trendy three-story concept store selling clothing and accessories for men and women alongside kitchen decor, stationery, bathroom products, and children’s toys. I rarely leave empty-handed; on this visit, I picked up one of their L.L. Bean-esque tote bags and a bar of botanical soap from a new-to-me brand called Orris. From there we moved on to Bonton (5 Bd des Filles du Calvaire), a children’s clothing and furniture emporium that was originally opened (and later sold) by the family behind Merci and Bonpoint. They sell their own line of clothing along with an assortment of furniture and toys from around the world. Our last stop was a bit further north, about a fifteen-minute walk. Landline (107 Avenue Parmentier) is a new-ish modern general store that sells everything from brooms and table linens to children’s birthday party invitations and board games.
4 p.m.: Break for ice cream and wine
Callum and Joe were reaching their shopping limit, so we walked to Folderol (10 Rue du Grand Prieuré), an ice cream shop and wine bar (genius combo for parents). The adults ordered glasses of rose, while Callum dug into a bowl of mango sorbet.
5:30 p.m.: Warm up over a bowl of udon
It’s chilly out, so we ended our day at Udon Jubey (39 Rue Sainte-Anne), another AmiGo recommendation. The tiny udon joint on Rue Saint-Anne (home to dozens of Japanese restaurants) had a line out the door, but Callum was relaxing in his stroller so we were happy to wait. They seated us at the bar up front and we ordered Niku Udon (sliced beef, onion, chrysanthemum, ginger) and Tempura Udon (prawn tempura, chives, crisped lotus) to share.
Day 4
12 p.m.: Take a walking tour of Montmartre
We spent the morning at the apartment while I finished a work project. On our agenda for the day was a self-guided walking tour of Montmartre that I planned to loosely follow. The author, Zoë Petit, is another good Instagram find for anyone traveling to Paris with kids. She does in-person tours, which I hope to try on another visit. I downloaded the tour onto my iPhone and we headed out the door. Our first stop was Aux Merveilleux de Fred (2 Rue Lepic), a pâtisserie specializing in desserts from northern France. Callum gobbled up their namesake merveilleux (pastry made with two rounds of meringue and whipped cream, topped with chocolate shavings) and wouldn’t let me try a bite, so I took his word that it was delicious. The tour was geared toward older children, so we didn’t follow it point for point, but managed to see Le Bateau Lavoir (the building where Picasso lived) and the Wallace Water Fountain (One of the 1,200 free water points around Paris where you can fill up a water bottle) on our way up to Sacre Coeur.
2 p.m.: Order Breton-style buckwheat crepes for lunch
We started looking for a place to eat lunch and saw a Breizh Café (93 Rue des Martyrs) nearby. The mini-chain specializes in Breton-style buckwheat crepes and was a favorite on our last trip, so it was an easy decision. Worth noting: The restaurant makes delicious caramelized onions that you can add to any crêpe. I ordered the jambon blanc artisanal de Bretagne (ham from Britany, sunny-side-up egg, comte) and asked for the onions on top and a side salad with cider vinaigrette. Joe got the andouille de Guémené fumé (smoked andouille sausage, onion confit, sunny-side-up egg, comte, mustard) and a side salad with wasabi vinaigrette. For Callum, we ordered a crepe with cheese (which they kindly slice up like a roll of sushi) and sparkling apple juice.
3:30 p.m.: Recess at Sacre Coeur
We spied a merry-go-round and small playground at the foot of Sacre Coeur, near the entrance to the stairs. Callum and I took a few spins before walking over to the playground where he made friends. Once he was done playing, we rode up to Sacre Coeur on the funicular. It was crowded, but the panoramic view of Paris was worth the trip. We walked over to the small town adjacent to the church and got Callum a cone with vanilla gelato before heading back to the apartment.
Day 5
10 a.m.: Visit the Sunday morning market
It’s Sunday morning and one of the city’s largest markets, Marché Bastille (2018 Bd Richard-Lenoir), was open for browsing. I loved seeing the seasonal fruit and vegetables on display, along with the specialty stands that sell cheeses, breads, and fresh-shucked oysters. There were several playgrounds alongside the market. We stopped at one that felt the most age-appropriate for Callum but I saw others that would work for both younger and older children.
12 p.m.: See Picassos in Paris
Our next stop was Musée Picasso (5 Rue de Thorigny). The museum is housed in one of my favorite Parisian buildings, a grand 17th-century mansion called Hôtel Salé. The line to enter was noticeably long and snaked around the courtyard, but we were whisked to the front because we had a young child in a stroller. One of the things I appreciate the most about traveling in Europe is how accommodating everyone is to parents and young children. After making our way around the galleries we stopped by the art room on the lower level where they had tables set up with materials for kids to draw and collage.
It was time for lunch, so we walked over to Le Petit Celèstin (12 Quai des Célestins), a neighborhood spot I had been wanting to visit, but they were closed for the holiday. I remembered a pizza restaurant on the left bank that I read about on Monica Ainley’s Substack and gave them a call to see if they were open.
2:00 p.m.: Eat chic pizza in Saint-Germain-des-Prés
I’m so glad we ended up at Pizzachic (13 Rue de Mézières). The restaurant is elegant with white tablecloths, nice glassware, and Italian wine, but 100% kid-friendly with welcoming waiters and delicious pizza that my son gobbled up. I later found out that it is owned by the son of the founder of Bonpoint, Merci, and Bonton, which makes total sense. We ordered the margherita and giulietta (tomato, mozzarella, spicy sausage, mushroom cream, truffle cheese) pizzas, and glasses of rose for the adults. We were the last ones in the restaurant (they close between lunch and dinner), but no one seemed to mind.
3:30 p.m.: Play at Jardin du Luxembourg
We spent the rest of the afternoon at Jardin du Luxembourg. We started off at Ludo Playground, which is big and fenced in with a large slide, rope walkway, zipline, sandbox, swings, and so much more. There’s a small fee, which is well worth it in my opinion. Also good to know: they have clean bathrooms and outlets for charging your phone. Elsewhere in the garden, there’s a merry-go-round, vintage toy boat rentals for the pond, a marionette theater, and food stands. You can easily spend half a day here as we did on our last trip.
6 p.m.: Order roast chicken at a French bistro
We strolled over to La Rôtisserie D’Argent (19 Quai de la Tournelle), a French bistro serving roast chicken on traditional red and white checkered tablecloths. The outdoor seating was closed that day, so we sat inside, but if you plan to visit during the warmer months call ahead and request one of the tables overlooking the Seine. Everyone got the roast chicken, which is as good as all the reviews I read.
Day 6
9:30 a.m.: Burn off energy at Domaine National du Palais-Royal
It was our last day in Paris and we started our morning in the courtyard at Domaine National du Palais-Royal. A friend once described it to me as a “giant, contained chessboard” for children to run around, which is a spot-on description. There are black and white striped columns in various sizes that Callum spent forty-five minutes climbing on while I snapped photos. We stopped at Cafe Kitsune Palais Royal (51 Gal de Montpensier) and picked up a financier and matcha lattes.
11 a.m.: Return to Centre Pompidou then get a healthy-ish lunch
Callum had been talking about the “colorful snakes,” also known as the Les Plantamouves exhibit at Centre Pompidou since we left, so we went back for a second round. Afterward, we walked to Cafe Berry (10 Rue Chapon), a healthy-ish brunch spot, for the Turkish egg plate and Greek yogurt with granola and poached peaches. Everything was delicious. From there we walked to the playground at Square du Temple — Elie Wiesel, which is a nice size for younger children.
3:00 pm: Jump on trampolines
We took our time walking towards the Louvre and eventually made our way to the entrance of Jardin des Tuileries where we stopped at a stand for water and coffee. Our next destination was the kids section, where we attempted another (more successful) visit to the trampoline park, merry-go-round, and playground.
5:30 pm: Have a last supper
We walked to Chez Georges (1 Rue du Mail), a favorite quintessential French bistro from a previous visit, but sadly they were closed for the summer holiday. We ended up at a random cafe nearby that wasn’t anything special — one of the hazards of not having a set schedule when you travel. Overall I’d say we did pretty well this trip considering how little I planned. Most of the spots we wanted to visit were open despite the summer holiday and we were able to walk into many restaurants without reservations.
Berit’s Paris Packing List
The one lip balm I return to over and over again. I appreciate the clean ingredients and that one swipe is enough to cure even the most chapped of lips.
The best and most recent addition to my travel arsenal. I like the sleek profile and multiple pockets for stashing bigger cords.
Themed sticker books hold my son’s attention far longer than coloring books and are compact enough that I can toss one or two in my purse for entertainment at meals.
There are much nicer packing cubes out there, but these do the job and are inexpensive enough that I can have several sets for each family member.
The individual-size electrolyte drink mixes are nice to have on hand for long travel days. I like the taste and they give me a quick energy boost.
These linen bags remind me of a set I picked up a few years ago in Tokyo. I use them to carry snacks for my family, so we don’t have to rely on airport food.
In an effort to preserve my son’s clothes, I have a few of these spot-treatment wipes tucked in my purse at all times.
These sleek toiletry bags are for children, but I’m tempted to buy one for myself. They come in a wide array of colors, hold a ton of products, and can be hung up for easy access.
My son’s favorite game is incredibly travel friendly. It comes in a sturdy tin container and can be played for a few minutes — or longer if time allows.
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