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QUENCH MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2016 MAKE THEM AGE × 20 WHITE WINES ARE BEST YOUNG AND FRESH. WELL, NO AND YES. AND SOMETIMES. BY TREVE RING SNAPSHOTS OF ARGENTINA × 22 SURVIVING IS A STATE OF MIND. BY TOD STEWART THE ALTRO ALTO × 25 REDISCOVERING A HIDDEN PART OF PIEDMONT. BY MICHAELA MORRIS NEO-NASCETTA × 28 PIEDMONT'S FUTURE MAY BE IN THIS LITTLE KNOWN WHITE WINE GRAPE. BY EVAN SAVIOLIDIS
22 30
FIGHTING YOUR REPUTATION × 30 IS SAUVIGNON BLANC SAVING OR BURYING NEW ZEALAND? BY TIM PAWSEY RE-INVENTION × 34 GETTING OUT FROM UNDER THE SHIRAZ SHADOW. BY MICHAEL PINKUS MAVERICK CHEFS 2016 × 37 LISA HOEKSTRA PROFILES SOME OF CANADA'S MOST INNOVATIVE CHEFS 38 × CHRISTIE PETERS, THE HOLLOWS, SASKATOON, SK 40 × JESSE MCCLEERY, PILGRIMME RESTAURANT, GALIANO ISLAND, BC 42 × JAKOB LUTES, PORT CITY ROYAL, SAINT JOHN, NB 44 × CORY VITIELLO, HARBORD ROOM, TORONTO, ON SAKE TO ME × 46 THESE PEOPLE ARE REVOLUTIONIZING THE LINK BETWEEN SAKE AND FOOD. BY TOD STEWART
DEPARTMENTS NAMASTE × 49 YOGA HAS TAUGHT ME TO BE PATIENT. TO BE IN THE MOMENT. TO LIVE MY LIFE AS MINDFULLY AS POSSIBLE. BY NANCY JOHNSON
THE “MIAMI BEACH” OF NORTHERN EUROPE × 64 ALSACE IS OFTEN MISUNDERSTOOD AND UNDERAPPRECIATED. BY GURVINDER BHATIA
NOTED × 51 EXPERTLY-TASTED BUYING GUIDE OF WINES, BEERS AND SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.
TIPPING THE SCALE × 66 BLAME ROBERT PARKER. HE STARTED IT. BY TONY ASPLER
OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 3
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IT’S MY FAVOURITE TIME OF YEAR. THE WEATHER IS TURNING A BIT COLDER. I HAVE THE CHANCE TO LAYER UP — MAYBE ADD TO MY YEARLY SCARF COLLECTION. This is also the time of year I get back in the kitchen. Just so you understand, I cook a lot. My wife is barely allowed to step anywhere near the cooktop. She, along with the kids, order up their favourite dishes and I work
4 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
Your recent articles about the natural benefits of everyday food [Super Duper, July/August; Folk in Modern Times, September] have been very intriguing. Friends of mine have gone on diets, eating things like acai berries or chia or other things I’d never heard about before my conversation with them. It drives me nuts. Eat well. Eat the right kind of food. We don’t need to buy into all those “magic exotic food” to be healthy! Seriously people. Jessica Posenen, London, Ontario India! Making wine! What a time to be alive. In the last two decades (or more, I won’t admit it though), I’ve seen so many new wine regions - mostly in Canada since, well, that’s where we live - Prince Edward County, Tidal Bay, BC’s emerging Shuswap (check it out if you haven’t already). All that to say, thanks Ron Liteplo for profiling Indian wines [Water Swollen Grapes, September] - I’ve already tried a few and love them all. Scott Williams, email Been on a cider kick lately and always looking for new suggestions. Your cider section of Noted has been a font of new ciders that have intrigued my palate! Erik Molnar
it into the week’s menu. It’s a great deal for all: I get to practice an art that I adore; they get to stuff their faces. So why is October about getting back in the kitchen? Well, from July to September, I am outside on the barbecue. I’m smoking fish or roasting chicken over an open fire. I cook en plein air. As the weather turns I head for my frying pans. I start to braise and bourguignon. Comfort food springs to mind and I get cooking. October is also when I read about our maverick chefs and get inspired. Just hearing about them foraging and melding technique to ingredient gets me into a tizzy. I head for the cooktop, while the whole family takes a seat. It’s a great time of year indeed.
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OPIM TO COME TALKING GMH
with Bec Hardy & Richard Dolan
OCTOBER 8 – 23, 2016 OCTOBER 8: ST. JOHNS OCTOBER 11: HALIFAX OCTOBER 13: MONTREAL OCTOBER 15: TORONTO OCTOBER 17: SASKATOON OCTOBER 19: EDMONTON OCTOBER 20: CALGARY OCTOBER 22: VICTORIA OCTOBER 23: VANCOUVER
opim.ca
Join us as we venture to Southern Australia Bec and Richard don’t really need any introduction. They’ve been active in Opimian activities since they first joined Wines by Geoff Hardy’s team. They honeymooned in Canada way back in 2011, sharing their special time as newlyweds with Opimians across the country. Then, when they welcomed their daughter Matilda into the world, they shared that wondrous moment with us on our Facebook page. Now that Matilda is old enough to travel, we get to meet her and see them again - and we’re very excited! Bec is the daughter of Geoff Hardy, one of Opimian’s longest standing Australian suppliers. She is the viticulturist and brand manager for Wines by Geoff Hardy, which includes Pertaringa, K1 by Geoff Hardy and Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy. You can find these wines on Cellar Offering 244 available in November 2016. After marrying Bec, Richard became the General Manager for Wines by Geoff Hardy. The two of them work together at the vineyard to prepare all the member favourites! Reconnect with Bec and Richard (or meet them in person, if you haven’t already!) at one of their events.
CONTRIBUTORS Michaela Morris is a freelance wine writer, educator and presenter. Though based in Vancouver, she sits on wine panels and judges both locally and abroad. Michaela holds the WSET Diploma, is a Vinitaly International Academy Certified Italian Wine Expert and a Master of Wine student. She balances out all of the eating and drinking with yoga, and occasionally cheats on wine with a Negroni.
Treve Ring is a wine writer and editor for regional, national and international print and digital publications, as well as an international wine judge and speaker. She is based on Vancouver Island, though is most often found on a plane or in a vineyard.
Evan Saviolidis is a Wine Tasting Challenge Champion, CAPS Sommelier Instructor, Ontario Wine Journalist of the Year and Educator of the Year. He offers wine appreciation courses and tastings through his company, Wine-Savvy Consultants. www.evanwinesavvy.com.
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OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 7
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WINES OF NOVA SCOTIA IN FOLDER
À LA CARTE Q SCHOOL × 10 THE BLACK RUSSIAN — A COFFEE LIQUEUR AND VODKA MIX THAT, SURPRISINGLY, WORKS. GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON × 13 USING CURRY TO PUNCH UP YOUR AUTUMN DISHES. UMAMI BY KATIA JEAN PAUL × 14 DANIELLE YOON IS MORE THAN A DRINK SMITH. FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC × 16 THE SWEET POTATO HAS TAKEN OVER, OR AT LEAST SQUEEZED OUT MOST OTHER FORMS OF STARCH FROM THE PANTRY. LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO × 17 SAKE COCKTAILS ARE NOT THAT INTIMIDATING. MUST TRY BY TREVE RING × 18 SOME THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN CELLARING. BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL × 19 WHAT MAKES ONE TEQUILA BETTER THAN ANOTHER AND WHY ARE SOME SO EXPENSIVE?
OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 9
Q SCHOOL
BLACK & WHITE In 1949, a Belgian barman at Hotel Metropole in Brussels created a cocktail for the US ambassador to Luxembourg that shook up the bar scene for coffee lovers around the world. That cocktail? The Black Russian — a coffee liqueur and vodka mix that, surprisingly, works.
NOT ACTUALLY RUSSIAN
The name comes from the use of vodka and the colour. Using vodka as the base means the flavours come from the liqueur, rather than the spirit. Something to remember when you’re choosing your coffee liqueur.
BLACK RUSSIAN
2 oz vodka 1 oz coffee liqueur (Kahlúa or Tia Maria) Ice There are two ways to make this cocktail: Prep #1: In an old-fashioned glass, pour vodka over ice. Add coffee liqueur. Prep #2: Shake ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Strain over ice into a short-ball glass.
GIVE IT A TWEAK
If you like adding sugar to your morning coffee, use more liqueur. If you like it black and bitter, stick to the recipe. Take your coffee with milk? You’d probably prefer the White Russian.
WHITE IS THE NEW BLACK
The simple addition of cream or milk is all it takes to transform a Black Russian into a White Russian. Be warned though, it makes the cocktail slightly more diluted. 10 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
WHITE RUSSIAN
2 oz vodka 1 oz coffee liqueur (Kahlúa or Tia Maria) 1 oz cream (or milk) Ice There are two ways to make this cocktail: Prep #1: In an old-fashioned glass, pour vodka over ice. Add coffee liqueur. Add cream. Prep #2: In an old-fashioned glass, float cream on top of the spirits and ice. Serve with a straw.
MIX IT UP
Both the Black and White Russian cocktails have variations that make for some interesting tasting experiments.
TWISTS ON THE BLACK RUSSIAN
Black Magic: made with a dash of lemon juice and a lemon twist garnish Brown Russian: topped with ginger ale California Russian: made with a shot of triple sec and an orange slice garnish Irish Russian/Smooth Black Russian: topped with Guinness Peri’s Black Russian: made with vanilla vodka and topped with cola Tall Black Russian/Colorado Bulldog: topped with cola Vader: made with Jägermeister
TWEAKS TO THE WHITE RUSSIAN
Anna Kournikova: made with skimmed milk Blind Russian: made with Baileys Irish Cream instead of cream Dirty Russian: made with chocolate milk instead of cream White Belgian: made with chocolate liqueur instead of coffee White Canadian: made with goat’s milk White Cuban: made with rum instead of vodka White Mexican: made with horchata ×
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FLOR DE SAL TO COME
GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON
FALL FEVER It’s soup weather. This fall I’ve decided to try making a different soup every week. This creamy soup tastes like a big bowl of autumn, with the flavour we crave this time of year: pumpkin. Curry powder is added for extra warmth. Use whatever curry powder you prefer — for this recipe I use a mild Indian curry. You can also skip the pumpkin and make the soup with two large sweet potatoes. In addition to its comfy goodness, this soup is also a big bowl of health. Pumpkins and sweet potatoes are both high in vitamin A and fibre. Honey is anti-bacterial. Cilantro may help reduce LDL cholesterol. And don’t even get me started on turmeric. If you believe everything you read, turmeric is the panacea for every illness known to mankind. I will say it has anti-inflammatory properties. Read the rest online and decide if you think it’s all that and a bag o’ chips.
× Search through our huge library of recipes on quench.me/recipes/
CURRIED PUMPKIN SOUP
3/4 cup red onion, minced 1 tbsp olive oil 3 cloves garlic, minced 3 cups chicken stock 1 large sweet potato, peeled and chopped 1 can pumpkin 3/4 tsp cumin 3/4 tsp turmeric 1 1/2 tsp curry powder 1 tbsp honey 1/2 tsp ground ginger About 3/4 cup milk Sour cream, toasted pumpkin seeds and minced fresh cilantro, for garnish 1. In a Dutch oven, cook onion in hot oil until softened. Add garlic and cook a minute longer. Add chicken stock, sweet potato, pumpkin, cumin, turmeric, curry, honey and ginger. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 40 minutes or until potatoes are tender. 2. Purée soup with an immersion blender or, working in batches, purée in food processor. Add milk to achieve desired consistency. Serve garnished with sour cream, pumpkin seeds and cilantro. × OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 13
UMAMI BY KATIA JEAN PAUL
(TAILOR) MADE WITH LOVE A BLACKSMITH FORGES AND SHAPES IRON WITH PRECISION. A wordsmith im-
presses indelible prose on the page. With a Boston shaker in one hand and a strainer in the other, the drinksmith fashions custom libations in the way of artisans of yore: by hand, deftly mixing homemade syrups, tinctures and infusions with fresh, quality ingredients. “Drinksmiths use flavour as [their] medium to create edible (or drinkable, as it were) art that is accessible to anyone,” says Danielle Yoon, a Toronto-based bartender and the co-founder of Drinksmith, a new craft cocktail catering company slinging imaginative as well as custom-made artisanal cocktails for parties, tastings and other gatherings. Among Drinksmith’s repertoire: “The Black Samba,” bourbon infused with cacao nibs and cherry juice syrup, shaken with Chambord (a black raspberry liqueur), lemon juice and egg whites, and topped with shaved chocolate. The drink, concocted by Yoon’s business partner and fellow drinksmith Stefano Pilla, is not unlike black forest cake in a cocktail coupe, says Yoon, and exemplary of the culinary aesthetic behind the nascent brand. “Most of my inspiration comes from foods and flavour combinations I’ve had in the past,” shares Yoon. “Classic combinations from other cultures are a great [source] of inspiration too. [For example], the ingredients of Vietnamese cuisine: mint, cilantro, lemongrass, ginger, lime, cucumbers are very distinct and potent but pair naturally with one another — think of a mojito or a gin-gin mule. Another is kulfi — it’s a traditional Indian frozen dessert consisting of pistachio, rosewater, cardamom, saffron, sometimes mango, and condensed milk. I like my cocktails to [have] a punch of flavour.” Established this past April, Drinksmith came to be when Yoon and Pilla, who met at Toronto’s high-toned The Spoke Club where they previously worked, sought a creative outlet in between freelance bartending gigs. “In creating cocktails for work and competitions, there were a lot of really tasty drinks that didn’t make the cut and I didn’t want to miss out on utilizing these in the future,” says Yoon. Though Yoon, whose resume includes tenures at Citrus at The Grand Hotel and Suites Toronto, and Annette Food Market (where she currently heads the cocktail program), considers herself new to the art of the pour, professionally speaking, Yoon has been slinging her own creations since age 14 for her parents and their guests at the dinner parties they would host. “I was 14 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
always allowed to taste a little bit as I went,” says the Toronto-born, Vancouver-bred entrepreneur. “In retrospect, a lot of people would probably frown on that now.” The cocktail that first piqued her curiosity? The Raffles Hotel Singapore Sling, remembers Yoon. “I was 16 years old and begged my mom to go out and buy Benedictine and cherry brandy — though I had no idea what any of the ingredients tasted like.” Soon after, Yoon worked various jobs at various restaurants in Vancouver, before moving to Toronto to study Food & Beverage Management at George Brown College. Earlier this year, the WSET Level 3 Wine and Spirits Award recipient was among 13 finalists to compete at the MadeWithLove™ National Finals in Montreal. As Drinksmith grows, Yoon hopes to expand her pool of knowledgeable bartenders, and somewhere down the line turn “The Forge,” the company’s digital cocktail compendium, into a book of recipes. Ultimately, however, she hopes to see craft cocktails earn a permanent place in the event landscape. “People are really surprised that this is a service that you can bring into your own home,” says Yoon. “I’d love to see craft cocktails for events become more common — partly for the selfish [reason] to go to a party and get a decent drink!” ×
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A COMPLETE TAKE OVER The sweet potato has taken over our house, or at least squeezed out most other forms of starch from the pantry. What started as a “Whole 30” challenge more than a year ago has turned into a general preference for sweet potatoes over the more common white or yellow varieties. Growing up with European “meat and potato” parents, I only eat regular potatoes. I don’t even think I knew what a sweet potato was till I was a teen. And even for the next decade or two after that, it was not part of any regular meal plan. But now that I have learned to make it in a variety of ways (mashed with regular potatoes, grilled with BBQ rub, etc.), I feel that there is no turning back (plus it’s good for you; lower glycemic index, etc.). But my affection for sweet potatoes really took off when I substituted them one day in my morning hash. I needed something a little more filling than eggs, and I had run out of regular potatoes. On a whim, out came the sweet potato, and boy was I happy with the results. They cook fast, they are filling, they brown well, and their mild sweetness allows for the use of strong spices (hello, chipotle); they also balance well with hot sauce, for those who like even a bit more kick. I generally make a couple of sunny-side up eggs to go on top; the runny yolks covering the sweet potato hash are a combo like no other. For days when lunch might be skipped completely, there is no better combo to keep me going.
16 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
SWEET POTATO HASH
1 1/2 lbs sweet potato, peeled and medium diced 1 onion, diced 1 cup Brussels sprouts, thinly sliced 2 tbsp vegetable oil 2 tbsp pork fat (or other flavoured oil) Salt and pepper, to taste 1 tsp chipotle powder (or sweet smoked paprika) 1. Preheat a large cast-iron pan over medium heat. Once heated, add vegetable oil and sweet potato. Stir occasionally for 10 minutes. 2. Add pork fat and onions, stirring to incorporate. Allow mixture to cook for additional 3 minutes. 3. Turn the heat up to high and add Brussels sprouts, salt and pepper, and cook for additional 3 minutes. Allow mixture to begin browning. Stir occasionally to avoid burning. 4. Add chipotle powder (ensure face is not above the pan while doing this). Serve and enjoy with eggs for breakfast or as a side with dinner. ×
LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO
Don't be intimidated! INTIMIDATED BY SAKE? Take heart: You’re undoubtedly
not alone. In fact, with an estimated 40,000 brands of sake in Japan, you’d probably be a little foolish not to be worried that wading into the world of rice wine might land you in deep water pretty quickly. That doesn’t mean we shouldn’t at least try to get better. Some of the confusion comes from the fact that we think of sake as rice wine, when, for starters, it’s a brewed product, making it more analogous to beer. “Sake is not classified by the rice strain that they’re using so it’s not like wine, where the grape varietal is predominant in identifying it,” says Miki Ellis, sake specialist for Vancouver and Toronto’s Miku restaurants. “Which can actually be a little more consumer-friendly since you don’t have to learn names like Miyama Nishiki, Omachi or Gohyakumangoku — you know, crazy Japanese words for all the different strains.” Unless, of course, you really want to, or are determined to master the next-level details of sake production, since, to the top experts, the rice does matter. But, as Ellis explains, it doesn’t matter nearly as much as the “polish,” which refers to the level of milling the rice has been subject to prior to fermentation. The process removes the husk from the rice (where the proteins and oils live), leaving mostly starch that can be converted into sugar. “I read a sake label like I would an Italian wine label, in that once you figure out what each word means, it’s kind of like putting a recipe together, and that’s what you have in the bottle,” she explains. “So if you had a label that read ‘junmai-daiginjō-nigori-genshu,’ when you break it down, you find out that junmai means pure
× Visit quench.me/mixed/ for more drink recipes
rice, daiginjō means high-polish, nigori means cloudy and genshu means cask-strength. What you’re going to have is ‘x.’” Although there are some funky, unpasteurized, cloudy and unique sakes being produced that have a serious cult following, Ellis leads novices towards the gold standard — a clear, high-polish sake — so they can establish a good baseline. Whether it’s a funky sake or a clear and polished one, she strongly suggests that, when making cocktails with it, bartenders should showcase the specific brand’s unique flavour — often melon, pear, apple mixed with floral and herbal notes — as opposed to try using it as a vodka substitute. In other words, put away your saketini recipes and learn to love this Japanese icon for its own sake. As an excellent example of a sake-forward cocktail, Ellis shares her Aburi Pearl with Quench:
ABURI PEARL
1 1/2 oz Momokawa Pearl 1 oz Pama (pomegranate liqueur) 1 oz spiced ginger syrup (simple syrup with fresh ginger and bird’s eye chilis) Tōgarashi sugar (Japanese chili spice with sugar — for the rim) Candied ginger Shake all ingredients — except ginger and tōgarashi sugar — over ice. Rim a rocks glass with tōgarashi sugar and fill with crushed ice. Strain cocktail into rimmed rocks glass and garnish with candied ginger on skewer. × OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 17
MUST TRY BY TREVE RING
Surviving the cellar We often put a lot of thought into selecting each bottle in our cellar. Most times they are consumed within the first two weeks of purchase. Every once in a while, a wine makes it past that mark. Here are some things you should keep in mind.
CLOSURES
While all closures have the same goal — keep the wine in the bottle and avoid harmful contact with oxygen — the type of closure greatly affects the ageability and longevity of wine. Wines under screwcap age quite differently from wines aged under cork. Natural cork remains the closure of choice for long-term bottle aging, with slow, moderate and controlled oxygen exchange being part of the aging process. Synthetic corks, especially those manufactured by Nomacorc, can come with differing oxygen-transmission levels to suit different wine styles and aging regimes. Screwcaps have proven great success in the preservation and ageability of certain wines, with some regions — like Australia’s Clare Valley — taking to them nearly exclusively for packaging their longest-living Rieslings. Screwcaps vary greatly, though — most significantly in the inner liner. Some liners contain a tinfoil layer that acts as a barrier to gas exchange and are better suited to long aging of wines. Liners that lack the tinfoil layer have higher oxygen-transfer properties, and faster wine aging results.
CELLARING
Storage conditions greatly affect the longevity of wine. The lower the temperature, the slower the maturation. Conversely, you can “age” a wine quickly and see secondary flavour and aroma notes by storing a wine in warm conditions. In general, the slower a wine matures, the greater the complexity of flavour compounds. Slow and steady wins the taste race. × 18 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL
ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM
What makes one tequila better than another and why are some so expensive? A better question is when the heck did tequila go from a morning-after regret to getting shout-outs in rap songs and commanding single malt whisky-style prices? Back in my day, tequila was more of a joke than a serious contender for liquor supremacy. Something you’d drink on a dare with a lick of salt and a wedge of lime. Today, it’s literally liquid gold with the likes of Justin Timberlake and George Clooney pushing their own luxury brands and fueling this current state of tequilamania. What makes one tequila better than another? Well, let’s start with some background. It can only be made in certain areas of Mexico, primarily in and around the city of Tequila in the state of Jalisco, which is midway down the spine of the country. It has to be made from at least 51 percent blue agave, a large, spiky plant that can take up to 10 years to mature. The best are made with 100 percent blue agave, so if the bottle in your hand isn’t bragging that fact, it’s a blend of agave and other sugars that’s been nicknamed a mixtos. Of the 100 percent varieties, age plays a big part in quality and cost. A blanco (or white tequila) sees no age and is actually the best to use in a margarita. A joven is a blanco that’s been flavoured with caramel or other colouring source, while a repasoda has aged for at least two months (but less than a year) in oak barrels to gain its colour, and an añejo ages a minimum of a year (but not over three years) in small barrels. An extra añejo is aged for no less than three years.
× Ask your questions at bonvivant@quench.me
Body, flavour intensity and overall sophistication increase (along with the value) as the quality level rises. If you like sipping your tequila as you would a fine brandy, you’ll be able to tell the difference. If, on the other hand, you’re going to bury it underneath lime juice and orange liqueur, let your budget be your guide.
Is there a New Zealand wine you can recommend that isn’t a Sauvignon Blanc?
Sadly, the rut many wine-producing countries get trapped in is getting so well known for producing one grape that the world won’t take them seriously when it comes to the rest of their output. Just ask Argentina. It makes a wide variety of wine styles, but consumers love them for Malbec and won’t settle for much else from the country. Though not as far gone as Argentina, New Zealand is close to the tipping point where if it can’t successfully convey the stories of its other grapes soon, it might as well just ripe them up and go all-in with Sauvignon Blanc, which it produces with world-class results. If you like white wines, NZ Pinot Gris (and, depending on the winery, Pinot Grigio) are top-notch, offering varied personalities and plenty of variety to explore. I’m a fan of their Rieslings, which are typically a drier take on the grape, making them refreshing to drink and eminently food-friendly. On the red side, New Zealand is arguably the cool-climate king of Pinot Noir, especially from the South Island region of Otago (where they shot much of The Lord of the Rings). Short of Merlot and Syrah, which are getting some attention internationally, New Zealand is best at blending red grapes together, creating full-figured, proprietary labeled wines (my favourites are from the Hawkes Bay region) that can knock your socks off and maybe, just maybe, make you think of the Kiwi winemakers as more than just one-trick ponies. × OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 19
MAKE THEM AGE by Treve Ring
It’s common knowledge, right? Red wines are best with some age, and white wines are best young and fresh. Well, no, and yes. And sometimes. The only thing black and white in the wine world is the grape varieties —provided we don’t get started on teinturier grapes, the red-fleshed varieties. While it’s true that many red wines benefit from age, so do many whites. In fact, some of the world’s longest-lived wines are whites — maturing, improving and complexing for decades — some for up to 100 years or more. But how to know which whites are cellar-worthy, which will improve and for how long? Turns out it’s a hazy shade of teinturier.
WHAT MAKES A WINE AGE?
Wine science is not conclusive when it comes to determining a wine’s ageworthiness, though it’s generally agreed that the key influencing factors are acidity, phenolics (see below) and grape variety. Sugar and free sulfur dioxide also play a role, as does the wine’s interaction with oxygen. Of course, closure and storage are also components to be taken into consideration (see sidebars). In reality, it’s not one key factor that determines a wine’s longevity, but rather the concentration and complex interaction among these traits. For red wines, tannins from the grape skins provide much of the structure. Tannins are one of the phenolic compounds (polyphenols) that are found in highest concentration in the stems, seeds and skins of grapes. They act as a preservative, which is necessary when you’re thinking about holding/aging a wine for a long period of time. The majority of white wines aren’t in contact with these elements to the degree that reds wines are, so they don’t have the preservation power of phenolics in the same way. The total amount of phenols found in a glass of red wine is somewhere around 200 mg, versus approximately 40 mg in a glass of white wine. Without that phenolic framework, white wines rely 20 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
more on a backbone of acidity to create structure. Acidity is not just the structural backbone of a wine, it also determines the pH level of that wine. Generally, the higher the acidity, the lower the pH. The benefit of high acidity/low pH is creating an environment unfavourable to microorganisms that could spoil the wine. For white wines that are not fermented on their skins, and thus afforded more phenolic protection, acidity and pH are critical. The white grapes with the best aging potential thus tend to be those with a high amount of natural acidity. This is why Chenin Blanc and Riesling, high-acid grapes, have the potential to age for decades; and why cool-climate, higher-acid white Burgundy tends to have more ageworthiness than lower-acid California Chardonnay. But Mother Nature is not that simple, nor that straightforward. Unfortunately, that simple acid equation doesn’t explain why Sémillon tends to age better than its blending cousin, the higher-acid Sauvignon Blanc, or why relatively low-acid/highpH Marsanne ages better than high-acid/low-pH Roussanne. Likewise, Muscadet can be screaming with natural acidity, but age-worthy Muscadets are rare. Balance is key: acidity is constant and does not change as a wine ages. Therefore, if the acid isn’t balanced with sugar, alcohol, et cetera, to begin with, the wine will show more of that imbalance over time. Similarly, if a wine doesn’t have a considerable concentration of flavours and aromas in its youth, it’s not going to create them in the bottle. Some of the longest-lived white wines in the world are sweet — think about Sauternes and Trockenbeerenauslese. However, for all their ample sugar content, they have pitch-perfect acidity to match. For a white to have aging potential, you need a wine that is balanced in youth, with a high intensity of concentration and acidity.
WHAT TO EXPECT
Though white wines make up a much smaller percentage of collectors’ cellars, some of the greatest wines for aging are whites. Also useful is the fact that many of these wines are relatively affordable to purchase in youth, something you don’t see as often with their age-worthy red cousins. As white wine ages, its colour will eventually fade to a golden hue, then to brown. Such changes occur due to the chemical and oxygen reactions of the phenolic compounds in the wine. Much like how an apple will colour and fade once cut, grapes and their by-product wine will oxidize over time. Primary aromas of fresh fruits and flowers will change to a bouquet, whereas more secondary notes of dried fruit, savoury earth, honey and nuts will emerge. With all wines, there will come a point when the wine has reached its peak and will plateau for a time, before a gradual demise. So what white grapes, and wines, are the best value to stock up on now for aging? Riesling remains king, its potent draw being its natural and piercingly high acid, providing the wine with tremendous structure and allowing it to nimbly balance out ridiculous levels of residual sugar. The high-wire balancing act between razor acidity and ripe sugars is an addictive effort — for the vintner, the drinker and the collector. Germany is a natural here, and balanced German Rieslings, of all Prädikat levels, can regularly clock decades. Cooler-climate Australian Rieslings (from the Clare and Eden valleys, in particular) remain excellent value in our market for seriously age-worthy wines. Chenin Blanc is another cellar star. Whether racy and dry, or heady and sweet, unmistakably constant in cared-for wines is a spiking acidity, apparent even through softening with time in wood or via heavy-handed winemaker intervention. Chenin can continue to mature for decades, transforming greengage and angelica notes into mushroom, salt, honey and toast. When noble rot (Botrytis cinerea) affects this grape, the results can be otherworldly — Bonnezeaux and Quarts-de-chaume are such cosmic examples. Though Sémillon changes dramatically from youth through twilight, it always carries itself with an air of nobility. Young versions show bright, sometimes racy acidity, citrus and hay/herb notes. With bottle age, these wines tend towards fatness, with a waxy, honeyed heft that gains weight and complexity. And, of course, the long-lived sweet wines of Bordeaux — Sauternes — owe much of their complexity and credibility to Sémillon. Australia’s Hunter Valley Sémillon grapes are particularly well regarded for producing brilliant, age-worthy wines that compete with the top wines in the world — for a fraction of the price. Marsanne is most commonly seen in the Rhône Valley, where it is often found arm in arm with blending partner Roussanne. On its own, however, Marsanne produces deeper hued wines that are rich and nutty, with hints of spice and pear, even in youth. As Marsanne ages, the wine takes on an even darker colour and the flavours can become more complex and concentrated, with an oily, honeyed texture. Perhaps due as much to its recognition as its availability, most people don’t think of reaching for this grape for the cellar, but it remains one of the best buys in Canada for cellar-worthy whites. ×
Tahbilk, in the Goulburn Valley in Victoria, Australia, has Marsanne vines dating back to 1927, and still makes wines from these vines. The winery also has a Museum
Release program through which they release back vintages, allowing consumers the chance to taste property-aged Marsanne, even if they don’t have the means or interest to do it themselves. The wines below are currently available and around the $20 mark; if you can’t find them at your local shop, ask the stockist to look into finding you some.
TAHBILK MARSANNE MUSEUM RELEASE 2008, GOULBURN VALLEY, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA Honeysuckle is scented with light macadamia, smoked stone, eraser and bitter lemon pith in this 8-year-old Marsanne, bottled under the “Museum Release” label. The palate flows with an oily slickness, though there is a subtle fine grip through to the very lengthy, ashen and salty finish. Pale gold in hue, this wine is lagging in its evolution more than some vintages, showing hints of the fruity characteristics of young Marsanne but with some of the secondary characteristics of the age-worthy grape. Has a ways to go still: 5 years easy. A cellar-worthy steal to buy now.
TAHBILK MARSANNE 2010, GOULBURN VALLEY, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA Petrol, eraser and faint honeysuckle line the nose and the glass of this 6-year-old Marsanne, showing some of the grape’s age-worthy characteristics. A light golden-yellow hue; bitter marmalade, scrubby herbs and lemon thistle carry along a light slick of oil, finishing with pear-skin spicing. A fine thread of persistent acidity runs the length of this lean-bodied wine right to the extended finish. This is all about tension and savoury stoniness. Another 6+ years easy.
TAHBILK MARSANNE 2013, GOULBURN VALLEY, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA Pale green/yellow in hue, streaked with herbed salts, citrus, meadow grasses, subtle hedge and light white honey. Juicy and brisk in the palate, with frisky acidity and clean, tight citrus and green apple notes on a light/medium-bodied frame. An apple-skin grip adds a light savoury and textural element to an oil-slicked palate, finishing with fine spice. A shadow of age here, but after 5–10 years in the cellar (or beyond), this will be an entirely different wine.
OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 21
SNAPSHOTS OF ARGENTINA by Tod Stewart
FOOD FOR THOUGHT Veronique’s brains lay, unmoving, on the plate in
front of her. I had the hunger, and those brains were what I craved. Veronique was my host (or more accurately, babysitter) on this trip to Mendoza, Argentina. Though I was doing my best to be professional and
treat her with respect, I yearned for her tender brains. And as much as I’d like to deny “her brains were fried,” they actually were. By nature, I’m pretty shy, and I have never seen The Walking Dead, so it took a little (unusual) moxie for me to lean over, all friendly like, and slither in with: “Veronique, I think you are a real special person. So, like, can I eat your brains?” I instinctively ducked and feinted left to avoid the right hook I expected (and have always expected in these sorts of encounters). But Veronique was a pro in the care and keeping of media department, and probably concluded, way ahead of the encounter, that curtailing my ability to write due to a concussion, embolism or not having my sheets tucked in, would have been a bad thing. “Sure, suck ’em up,” she said. Actually, what she said was, “Yeah, chow down, you sick puppy,” but we’ll just let that go. I’m sure, at that moment, she was wishing she had a nice, stable accounting job that had nothing to do with chaperoning a media brat. Dead-ish or otherwise. So I ate Veronique’s brains. Right off her plate. She also slipped me some tongue. It was beef, I assume, and not so offal … okay, stop me for god sake. The charming restaurant, Fuente y Fonda, had plenty of less challenging victuals on call for those in a less undead state than I. I groped across the table for some as another of my extremities plopped off …
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I PACKED MY BAGS LAST NIGHT, PREFLIGHT
As I overpacked the night before my flight to Mendoza, I mused — glass of 2014 Terrazas de los Andes Reserva Torrontés in hand — about the state of the Argentinian wine industry, while casting a loving glance at my brand spanking new luggage. I had finally decided that since I was now a “world traveller,” some decent haulage was due to me. Baggage on an airplane is sort of like socks in a dryer: what goes in doesn’t typically come out the same way. My old luggage was proof. So I had settled on a dashing new olive green TravelPro Platinum Magna 2. Apparently, it’s the choice of flight crews around the world, so I took that as a pretty decent endorsement. Be that as it may, I thought about the progress the Argentinian wine industry had made in a pretty short time span, going from a country that produced vast quantities of pretty questionable swill for a largely domestic market, to a global exporting powerhouse with Malbec as its engine. What challenges lay ahead? Hopefully the next few days would tell me but I figured the biggest one would be convincing the world that taking a chance on an over $10 Malbec would likely be worth the gamble.
HOOFING IN THE FOOTHILLS “I have two rules when it comes to drinking wine,”
cautioned Raúl Labat, owner of Argentina’s Estancia El Puesto. “The first is: I only drink wine when I’m eating duck. The second is: I only drink wine when I’m not eating duck.” We weren’t eating duck
and Labat was pouring generous glasses of Terazzes do los Andes Reserva Chardonnay and Reserva Torrontés. In fact, we were hoovering back helpings of freshly baked empanadas, thankful for both the skill of the resident cook and Labat’s Rule #2. Snugged up against the foothills of the mighty Andes, Estancia El Puesto offers a range of services and programs for those seeking relaxation amongst amazing scenery. What it was providing us on that April morning was a guided horseback excursion to check out the surrounding terrain. A light, low-hanging grey mist partially obscured our line of sight to the looming mountains, but none of us was complaining. With our horses hitched outside, we retreated into the cozy, fire-warmed comfort of El Puesto, enjoying Labat’s stories, photos, wine and empanadas. And, of course, beef. Always more beef.
MY BIGGEST BEEF
I’m not sure if there are vegans in Argentina. If there are, they must be rather peckish most of the time. Or they’re actually on the menu. Whatever. In any case, I was literally submerged in beef most of the time I was eating in Mendoza. It was not a bad thing. The meat came from hill-slope-exercised, grass-fed beasties. And man, was it good. I actually had the best steak of my life at a modest little lunch for about 400-plus people during the kickoff of a campaign staged by the Terrazas de los Andes winery to promote the marriage of its red wines to local beef. It was an amazing piece of flesh. When set down in front of me, my first reactions was, “More brains!” Actually, that’s not true. My first reaction was, “You’re kidding, right?” I mean, you could have built real estate on the thing. And it was (only) lunch. But, guess what, it all went down the hatch, expedited by glasses of Terrazas Single Vineyard Malbec 2012. The meat had a certain lightness that I previously had not experienced in a steak. The wine matched heroically. Compliments to the chef. And he was quite the chef. Essentially Argentina’s answer to Mario Batali and Bobby Flay, Francis Mallmann is a chef and restaurateur who has obviously mastered the art of beef 10,000 ways. Well, actually, about seven ways. See, the Argentinian style of cooking (mostly beef ) typically takes one of seven different styles, all using wood. Which technique Mallmann used at lunch didn’t really matter to me: I had absolutely no beefs with the beef.
GUSTAVO URSOMARSO, WINEMAKER AT TERAZZES DO LOS ANDES
CHAMPAGNE WISHES AND (BEEF) DREAMS “It’s funny to think,” I recalled, as I stared at the sun setting on the snow-capped Andes and slipped into a sort of 'tell me I never have to leave' delusionary state, “that one of the best champagne experiences I’ve ever had would be here, in Argentina.”
Yet it was. A presentation of some fine vintages of Möet & Chandon’s best cuvées, including the unveiling of the venerable firm’s most luxurious offering. Led by Benoît Gouez, Möet’s Chef de Cave, the decadent experience started with the lemon custard, brioche and hazelnut scented Brut Imperial, followed by the 2006 Grand Vintage (aromas of marzipan, buttered toast and baked apple, with rich, toasty flavours leaning towards baking spice and mild anise). Next up was the stunning 1999 Grand Vintage. With eight years on lees and another eight in the bottle, it offered up a complex smoky, mineral-tinged nose with a dash of lemon polish and toasty/smoky complex flavours. The night capped off with the captivating, complex and unique MCIII. Space doesn’t allow me to fully elaborate on how this rich, intense bubbly with overtones of a top-notch white Burgundy came to be, but the story’s pretty interesting. (Look it up!) OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 23
CHEVAL DES ANDES WINEMAKER, LORENZO PASQUINI
HANGING ON THE TERAZZAS
The guest house at Terrazas do los Andes winery was to be headquarters for my Mendoza “research assignment.” Modern, well equipped and, well, quite pretty (like the winery itself ), the kitchen had a slab of … Guess what? (Hint: not brains.) If you guessed beef … in front of me only a few minutes after I had unpacked. Herve Birnie Scott, Director of Terrazas, was enthusiastic about what lay ahead for the winery and for Argentina’s wine industry in general. Turns out the future will depend on both attitude and altitude. “The altitude of the vineyard imparts a natural freshness to our wines; but it’s not the only thing that matters,” he revealed. “Before cultivating a vineyard — or even planting one — we do a thorough soil analysis, digging hundreds of holes in the ground to help us define the sub-terroir that exists within the same vineyard. The soil variations within these sub-terroirs allow us to determine the best way to manage specific blocks — or even blocks within blocks — in terms of viticultural practices.” Pretty scientific, but Scott emphasized that only by determining the vast nuances that lay within each vineyard, and treating them accordingly, would truly great wines be realized. “In a way, we follow the practices of great Old World appellations,” he opined, “with small clos or blocks being managed individually and differently.” A tasting with winemaker Gonzalo Carrasco certainly showed that the efforts being undertaken at Terrazas were paying off. The whites — Terrazas do los Andes Reserva Chardonnay 2015 and Reserva Torrontés 2015 — were elegant and balanced while the reds (which included, among others, the Terra do los Andes Malbec Single Vineyard Las Compuertas 2012, Cabernet Sauvignon Single Vineyard Los Aromos 2012 and Malbec Single Parcel Les Castaños 2012) were complex and refined, showing none of the overwrought “fruit bomb” characteristics that have characterized “old-style” Argentinian tintos. Clearly the research and attention to elevation and vineyard management was paying off in a dramatic way. 24 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
A HORSE WITH A BIG NAME Some 1,070 metres above sea level, the pristine
vineyards of Cheval des Andes stretch out towards the snow-capped peaks of the mountains.
Located in Luján de Cuyo, one of the most coveted grape-growing regions of Mendoza, Cheval des Andes represents a unique marriage between France’s Premier Grand Cru Classé A Saint-Emilion Château Cheval Blanc and the Terrazas de los Andes winery. The warm morning fall sun shone from a crystalline blue sky as Gustavo Ursomarso, Vineyard Manager for both Terrazas de los Andes and Cheval des Andes, led us through the vines and discussed the joint winery’s objective. “We are aiming for a French style that emphasizes elegance,” he pointed out. “Most Argentinian wines are big, full and rich. The wines of Cheval des Andes are completely different.” In fact, the philosophical aim of Cheval des Andes is to mirror the vinous stylings of its French sister. Similar to its partner winery in France, Cheval des Andes makes a single wine from a blend of black Bordeaux varietals, which are fermented separately. The percentage of each variety in the final assemblage varies from year to year. Tasting through a series of vintages suggested that what the winery was doing was far from “typical Argentina.” The showroom/tasting room/kitchen/thingy where we did our sampling was much like the wine itself: elegant, sleek and an extension of the surroundings. Enclosed in glass and enveloped in cedar, it’s a modern designer’s fantasy. Starting with the mineral/currant/sandalwood and herbal Cheval des Andes 2012 and capping with the graphite-laced, cassis-infused 2005 (still a baby) with the tobacco leaf, plum, slate and smoke-tinged 2010 sandwiched in between (with some lovely sparkling Baron B rosé acting as a palate-refresher), I had to agree that the DNA of Saint-Émilion certainly coursed through the blood — and wine — of Cheval des Andes. In the words of Technical Manager Lorenzo Pasquini, “Balance before power; elegance before intensity.” ×
THE ALTRO ALTO by Michaela Morris
A slip of the finger transforms Alto Piemonte into Altro Piemonte. The former is the official name of a collection of 10 DOPs located in the northerly reaches of Piedmont at the foothills of the Alps. Altro or “other” is an equally fitting moniker for this less travelled corner. While it also boasts wines based on the noble Nebbiolo grape, they are virtually unknown next to their famous Langhe cousins, Barolo and Barbaresco. My first visit to Alto Piemonte was in 2007 and consisted of a brief stop at Antoniolo in Gattinara. I felt slightly proud of myself for having ventured off the beaten track and was captivated by the austere, angular nature of the wines. After a fascinating couple of hours with Alberto Antoniolo, I jumped in the car and raced south to the well-worn circuit of the Langhe hills, bypassing Bramaterra and Lessona, completely ignorant of their existence. Hindsight is 20/20, so I now see it was a blundering error, which I rectified last year by spending days rather than mere hours in this forgotten area. Producers are quick to remind visitors that in the 16th century, the wines of Gattinara and Ghemme were more famous than those of Barolo and Barbaresco. By the 19th century, the entire area of Alto Piemonte counted 40,000 ha under vines — many more plantings than in the Langhe hills. Today, however, less than 1,000 ha is all that remains. “Just three generations of industry managed to wipe out 25 generations of viticulture,” explains Lessona producer Luca De Marchi. After the ravages of phylloxera, very few vineyards were replanted. Emigration drained the area and those who stayed behind were lured by the promise of reliable income from the burgeoning textile and automobile industries. A devastating hailstorm in 1905, which destroyed virtually the entire year’s
harvest, was the straw that broke the camel’s back, giving locals an excuse to abandon their vineyards altogether. De Marchi calls himself “an archaeological winemaker.” Despite the challenges faced by his ancestors, he sees the greatness of the past and is working to revive it. Talking to me at his Sperino property in Lessona, he says, “The first step is to get producers proud of their history.” De Marchi himself has a lot to be proud of. His father, Paolo De Marchi, is the man behind Isole e Olena in Tuscany. But Paolo is originally from Piedmont and Proprietà Sperino has been in the family since the early 1900s. The return of the De Marchis to Lessona has brought much needed attention to Alto Piemonte. The key to appreciating the wines from Alto Piemonte is understanding what makes them distinct from their brethren in the Langhe. While producers may tire of such comparisons, the reference is helpful. Alto Piemonte produces truly alpine wines. The mountains are so close you can almost touch them and the air is chilly but invigoratingly fresh. Rainier and cooler, the climate here results in a more delicate and tighter expression of Nebbiolo, which is known locally as Spanna. Extreme diurnal temperatures accentuate Nebbiolo’s already evocative aromas, a huge plus in my eyes. Structurally, the wines are higher in acid, but feature less body, alcohol and usually less tannin. OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 25
VALLANA 2006, GATTINARA DOCG ($35) Gattinara tends to be the brawniest of Alto Piemonte’s DOPs and Vallana winemaker Francis Fogarty believes it needs 10 years to come around. So here it is. Perfumed and floral on the nose, yet still tight and firmly structured on the palate.
ANTONIOLO SAN FRANCESCO 2008, GATTINARA DOCG ($68.25) Pure elegance and refinement from Gattinara’s most renowned producer. Forest berries, savoury mineral and balsamic notes held together by silky tannin.
LE PIANELLE 2010, BRAMATERRA DOC ($60) One of the properties where Cristiano Garella is a consultant and a winery to watch. A beautiful and pure expression of Bramaterra, with mint, wild strawberry and earthy nuances.
LE PIANE MAGGIORINA 2014, COLLINE NOVARESI DOC ($35) Hailing from old vines grown using the unique Maggiorina trellising system once traditional in Alto Piemonte. (Three intertwined vines provide a protective “roof” to help mitigate damage due to wind and hail.) The wine is a field blend of mostly Nebbiolo and Croatina with 11 other grapes. Simple and light, but not banal, it’s a crunchy red fruit cocktail clocking in at a refreshing 11.5%.
TENUTE SELLA OMAGGIO A QUINTINO SELLA 2008, LESSONA DOC ($60) This homage to Quintino Sella is only made in the best years and blends Nebbiolo with 15% Vespolina. It demonstrates the exceptional finesse imparted by Lessona’s sandy soils. A heady and seductive mix of potpourri and iron with an assertive grip.
IOPPA BRICCO BALSINA 2011, GHEMME DOCG ($45) One of Ioppa’s single-vineyard bottlings, Bricco Basina is characterized by sandy soils. Fine-boned and appetizing with cherries, subtle clove and a long finish.
PROPRIETÀ SPERINO UVAGGIO 2013, COSTE DELLA SESIA DOC ($60) A blend of predominantly Nebbiolo with Vespolina and Croatina coming from vineyards in the Lessona and Bramaterra DOCs earns the “Uvaggio” the overarching Coste della Sesia denomination. It explodes with flowers, exotic spice and summer berries. Creamy and delicious!
NERVI MOLSINO 2006, GATTINARA DOCG ($70) Nervi is Gattinara’s oldest estate and its Molsino cru is considered one of the best. The 2006 vintage demonstrates that Gattinara is not just about brute force. Intriguing aromas of truffles and dried petals lead to ripe tannins and a lingering minerality. 26 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
Le Piane's Christoph Kuenzli
Traditionally, Nebbiolo has struggled to ripen in these cooler reaches, so blending with other grapes is common. Both Vespolina and Croatina are used to give colour and body to the paler and leaner Nebbiolo. Specifically, Vespolina adds a balsamic, black peppery snap while Croatina lends a creamy fleshiness. The bright and fresh Uva Rara also shows up in small amounts. The earth is also different here, described as soils of fire and ice. Boca, Gattinara, Coste della Sesia and Bramaterra sit on volcanic bedrock while Ghemme and Fara are defined by glacial moraine. While each has its own unique characteristics, all of Alto Piemonte’s DOPs possess acidic soil, rather than alkaline as in Langhe. “This promotes a greater uptake of minerality by the vine,” professes Christoph Kuenzli at Le Piane in Boca. Certainly it’s manifested in the wines, and descriptors such as salt, iron and stone keep coming up in my tasting notes. This unique expression is what drew Kuenzli to the area. Originally an importer in Germany, he was selling the wines of Antonio Cerri, who was one of only two remaining producers in the Boca DOC in the ’80s. As Cerri had no heirs, he agreed to sell his property to Kuenzli, which became the foundation of his Le Piane property and the catalyst for the restoration of Boca.
Andrea Ioppa
Affordable land prices have encouraged a revival throughout Alto Piemonte and made investment viable. A planted vineyard may go for €80,000 per hectare whereas the most renowned cru sites of Barolo can easily cost €1.5 million per hectare. Obtaining property, however, is another story. As holdings are minuscule, Kuenzli had to persuade 10 different owners to sell in order to cobble together one single hectare, for example. The other option is to start from scratch. Vineyards that were abandoned early in the last century have been taken over by forests and cinghiale (wild black boar). A mere €10–20,000 will buy you a hectare but you must then be willing to sink in an additional €100,000 to actually establish a vineyard. Though, as the wines of Alto Piemonte gain recognition, the effort seems worth it. Ian D’Agata, author of Native Wine Grapes of Italy — and arguably the foremost expert on Italian wine — believes producers here “are sitting on a gold mine.” The 21st century has brought a string of warmer vintages and has people wondering if traditionally prized sites in Barolo and Barbaresco are becoming too hot. This phenomenon has certainly put a spotlight on cooler regions. “We have a great advantage being so close to the mountains,” says Andrea Ioppa of the Ioppa estate in Ghemme. “Thanks to this fantastic fresh and windy microclimate, we succeed in obtaining equally fresh and bright wine.” The subject of climate change is complex. Cristiano Garella, who consults for 10 wineries in Alto Piemonte and has his own label, Colombera & Garella, remarks: “We know that the second half of the 20th century was like a short ice age and now we are in a warmer period.” Harvest dates are earlier and sugar levels
in the grapes have increased. Christoph Kuenzli points out that vineyard practices in the cooler decades of the ’50s and ’60s were less sophisticated and favoured higher yields. The combination of all of these factors made it harder to fully ripen grapes. In those days, four out of 10 vintages were considered good. Today, there are only one or two off years per decade. Wines, especially those from the warmest of years, tend to be more approachable early and are less austere than in the past. Yet Garella prefers the fresher years (like 2005, 2008, 2010, 2013) and believes that they exhibit the true identity of Nebbiolo from northern Piedmont. “If you want to produce elegant and long-aging wine, your base must be the acidity and not the alcohol.” Furthermore, warmer vintages don’t come without their own set of challenges. For Alto Piemonte, it means an increase in hail. Marina Olwen Fogarty of La Vallana in Boca observes: “Until about 10 years ago, hail often occurred at night in August. Now, we have more and more hail during spring, both during the day and the night, compromising yields.” Weighing the struggles against the results, the quality of the wines comes out on top and consumers win big. Alto Piemonte’s wines are in no way cheap and cheerful; however, they tend to be less expensive than those from the Langhe. While top-tier Barolo and Barbaresco easily sell for more than $100, the very best bottles from Alto Piemonte fall well below that, with some great examples starting at $30. As producers rediscover the glory of the past, now is the time to get on the train. It has an eye-opening treasure trove of undiscovered gems and is a savvy alternative for Nebbiolo lovers. × OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 27
NEONASCETTA by Evan Saviolidis
MOVE OVER ARNEIS. Step aside Gavi.
Erbaluce, exit stage left. Moscato, God bless your sweet and bubbly personality. I have seen the future of Piedmontese white grapes — and its name is Nascetta. After 20 years in the wine business, I have seen and heard “Next Big Thing” applied to countless grapes and wines. So many, in fact, that my vinous blood pressure stopped exceeding 120 over 80 a long time ago, since the majority of those canonizations never materialized. So when I say that there is something special spreading through the Langhe Hills of Italy, it’s with deep sincerity. The white varietal Nascetta was first documented more than 140 years ago. Originally from the town of Novello, next door to Barolo, it is the only indigenous white grape from the Langhe, since Arneis comes from Roero and Cortese (the grape of Gavi) originates from Alessandria. The name “Nascetta” was coined by Giovanni Gagna, a 19th-century Piedmontese oenologist. Erroneously, he believed that the grape was related to the Sardinian grape Nascu (meaning “moss”). For the better part of the 18th and 19th centuries, Piedmont and Sardinia were part of the Duchy of Savoy and later the Kingdom of Sardinia. With the seat of power located in Turin, trade between Sardinia and Piedmont was commonplace. The producers of the day held Nascetta in high esteem because it produced concentrated and full-bodied whites. However, post-phylloxera, only a few parcels of the 28 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
grape were planted, and in the aftermath of World War II, when the mandate was to expand all forms of agriculture to nourish the masses, Nascetta almost disappeared when growers decided to turn their sights to high-yielding varietals, such as Cortese. To put it in perspective, Cortese can easily yield 100 bottles of wine from 100 kilos of grapes. By contrast, Nascetta, in a good year, will only produce 40 bottles. It’s the passion of a handful of producers that staved off its complete extinction. Nascetta’s re-emergence in the modern era dates to 1990, when the first new vineyard plantings began under the guidance of Giacamo and Raffaella Bologna, owners of the famed Braida Winery, which was also the first to introduce the world to the concept of premium Barbera. Low yielding and judiciously oaked, this style has now been copied by most Barbera producers, to world acclaim. So, what does Nascetta taste like? Well, if Grüner Veltliner and Assyrtiko were to have a love child that was subsequently baptized by Chenin Blanc, it would be Nascetta. Its personality ranges from the pepper/herbal/citrus qualities (think Kamptal G.V.) in lighter versions to full-blown tropical styles (such as Wachau Smaragd) in riper renditions. All versions have a crunchy saline/crystalline minerality, classic to the Santorini varietal. With age, they tend to take on a Chenin quality with wet wool and apple. The other hallmark of the Nascetta grape is that it is extremely resistant to oxidation. Leave
a bottle open for a few days and there will be no adverse effects. DNA testing is still ongoing, but as it stands right now, it is a singular grape with no known relations. Regarding vinification, it is pretty much open season. Producers are still trying to figure out which methods work best. Some employ stainless steel, others old wood, and a small percentage are experimenting with new French oak in varying degrees. Skin maceration and reductive winemaking are among some of the other techniques used. For me, the finest interpretations were the ones without new wood, which allowed the purity of the grape to shine. As for aging, many believe that the best Nascettas will last for upwards of a decade. Part of the reason is the wine’s malic and tartaric acids are very stable, and have high potential alcohol. However, the track record is still limited, so no one really knows, but the older vintages I sampled were holding the line quite nicely. Friends, this is a grape with which you need to become more familiar, as its stature and demand will only continue to grow in the coming years. The following is a selection of wines I tasted at this year’s inaugural Associazione Indigenous Langa tasting in Alba. Out of the 25 wines I sampled, many scored high — an indication of the overall quality that this varietal can produce. As for price, in Italian enotecas, these wines range between 6 and 15 euros. With Piedmont known for big reds, isn’t it time that a big white joined the echelon?
SERRA DEI FIORI OWNERS GIUSEPPE BOLOGNA BRAIDA AND THE GIACOSA BROTHERS
CANTINA TERRE DEL BAROLO 2015
CANTINA DEL NEBBIOLO RIVEVERSE 2014
From Novello, the birthplace of Nascetta, comes this peach, honey, apple, white flower, citrus and herbal rendition. Salty minerality and excellent length.
Made via reductive winemaking — so as to preserve the aromas — this wine explodes with a very Grüner personality of peach, honey, grapefruit, white and green pepper and salty minerality. Crisp and lovely.
A 72-hour cold soak was followed by a year of aging in a combination of cement and stainless steel. Wax, peach, honey, flowers, spice and yellow apple are framed by a fresh personality. Long-lasting.
AZIENDA AGRICOLA LA TRIBULEIRA 2014
PODERI CELLARIO SÉ 2015
CASCINA BALLARIN 2014
An intense bouquet of honey, flowers, spice, apple, pineapple and grapefruit. Weighty with excellent length and a long-lasting aftertaste.
Fullish, there is white pepper, grapefruit, honey and smoke. Good concentration and a perfect pairing with pickerel and asparagus topped with a beurre blanc sauce.
ELLENA GIUSEPPE 2013
OSVALDO VIBERTI 2013
From the village of La Morra, renowned for Barolo, comes this 12% Nascetta, which reveals aromas of honey, citrus, flowers and white peach. On the taste buds, there is green apple and, interestingly enough, some caramel.
A wild ride! Aged for 1 year on its lees in stainless-steel tanks, this wine resembles a beautiful Pessac-Léognan. Peach, toast, spice, citrus, grapefruit, pineapple, herbs and honey explode out of the glass and into the mouth with this medium, full-bodied wine.
A great Nascetta racked, backed and stacked with classic vegetal, white pepper, honey, grapefruit, tree fruit and florality. Superb finish.
AZIENDA AGRICOLA DIEGO CONTERNO 2014 A great Nascetta with flowers drenched in honey, sweet peach, white pepper, earth, minerals and vegetal qualities. Great length and brisk on the finale. Well worth seeking out.
MARCO CAPRA 2015 Still tightly wound, but showing depth on the palate, you will find banana, peach, citrus, spice and deep minerality. Medium-plus body with 13% alcohol and great length.
AZIENDA AGRICOLA GERMANO ETTORE 2013 Age has allowed this wine to shine: pink grapefruit, sweet peach, cracked pepper, petrol and sweet apple soar out of the glass.
RIVETTO DAL 1902 BOREA 2013
SERRA DEI FIORI LA REGINA 2014 A lot is going on in the glass: peach, olive oil, honey, lime zest, mineral, white flower and white pepper. On the lips, there is very good length with citrus and herb echoing all the while.
PODERI CELLARIO SÉ 2011
Cherry pith, honey, pepper, pineapple and mineral. Medium body with splendid length and a crisp personality.
The oldest wine of the tasting but still holding the line at 5 years of age. Much complexity in the form of yellow apple, peach compote, white pepper, honey and some bruised fruit notes on the palate. Excellent length with nice lift.
RIVETTO DAL 1902 2012
OSVALDO VIBERTI 2014
Peach jam, honey, smoke and pepper on the nose meet up with creaminess, apple and dried flowers on the taste buds. Very good length.
Earth, white flowers, grapefruit, peach skin, lemon, honey and a salty tang are in play. Very good length and so ready to drink. ×
DIEGO CONTERNO 2015
OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 29
I can recall vividly my very first tasting of New Zealand wines. It took place in an unassuming upstairs office in a walk-up in South Vancouver — and it was a while back in the last century.
bottom: Brent Marris's The Ned is becoming a household name; right: Ata Rangi winemaker Helen Masters; bottom right: Nikolai St George, chief winemaker at Ara
YOUR REPUTAT
30 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
FIGHTING by Tim Pawsey
ION
What struck me, even then, was the remarkable range of varieties and styles that New Zealand had to offer. In those days, the tsunami of Sauvignon Blanc was but a ripple. That other country from down under yielded tropical-toned Chardonnays; juicy but elegant, citrus-kissed Rieslings; plummy Merlots; even a few vibrant Pinots; and, yes, some grassy and gooseberry-toned “Savvies” — a hint of great things to come. That thought crossed my mind when this year’s New Zealand road show rolled into town under the moniker of “The Great New Zealand Wine Tiki Tour.” On tour was a wealth of tastes to be sampled — including more than the odd Sauvignon Blanc. In fact, hot on the heels of this year’s tour was International Sauvignon Blanc Day, when the one percent of the population that hasn’t tried Sauvignon Blanc promptly rushes out and discovers it. Not only does the varietal continue to win fans around the world but, in the past few years, winemakers have also been working hard to exploit the benefits of contrasting terroirs and different sub-regions. Which is a good thing. I’d be the last person to suggest that Sauvignon Blanc has been anything but the equivalent of the wine mother lode for New Zealand. Right up there with kiwis, green-lipped mussels, Gandalf and tongue-in-cheek Air New Zealand ads, it’s been the best export that ever happened — especially in the famously hard-to-crack UK market, which now consumes some £600 million worth a year, give or take a few litres. In fact, in the UK, says wine dynamo Brent Marris, Sauvignon Blanc (and his The Ned, in particular) has become a household word. “A bit like 50 Shades of Grey,” he muses. However, there’s no question that, for all its deliciousness, Sauvignon Blanc lopsidedly overshadows the rest of all that New Zealand has to offer at every turn. Yet maybe it’s not so much the Kiwis’ fault but more the mega-marketers’ (from UK supermarkets to Canadian monopolies) who are only too happy to capitalize on such demand. To some folks, it might seem verging on the heretical to suggest that, one day, the world’s unbridled passion for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc might wane, or even be replaced by something else. However, as consumers, we are fickle animals. A wholesale shift even in matters of wine is not unheard of. In the truest form of flattery, there are now a few Sauvignon Blancs hailing from everywhere from Chile to South Africa. The question is: at what point does New Zealand come to grips with the friendly elephant in the room — which now accounts for 72 percent of its total production — in the same way that Australia has with Shiraz, that Argentina gradually is with Malbec and that even Germany now has with Riesling? OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 31
ARA SELECT BLOCKS 2012, MARLBOROUGH, WAIHOPAI VALLEY ($25) Dark, earthy with some barnyard hints, followed by a cherry-toned palate with balanced tannins, acidity and some savoury hints that nod to Burgundy.
CLARK ESTATE BLOCK 8 RIESLING, MARLBOROUGH, AWATERE ($20) Repeated lees stirring brings added weight and texture. Upfront floral, citrus and honey flavours before a juicy, gently off-dry lemon-lime palate with a good fruit/acid balance and clean finish.
INVIVO RIESLING 2014, CENTRAL OTAGO ($20) Fairly developed with some petrol notes on the nose, orchard fruits and a touch of mineral up front, followed by citrus zest, green apple and an off-dry finish.
SACRED HILL PINOT NOIR 2014, MARLBOROUGH ($30) Lifted cherry and vanilla notes precede a soft, approachable entry underpinned by juicy acidity on a fresh, strawberry palate.
STONELEIGH PINOT NOIR 2014, MARLBOROUGH ($20) More evidence that Pinot’s star is on the rise from one of the region’s largest budget producers. Wild-fermented in open-top fermenters, with 90% placed in barriques (20% new oak) for 8 months. Upfront red berry fruit with some mineral hints, appealing cherry and raspberry notes on a structured palate.
TE PĀ PINOT NOIR 2013, MARLBOROUGH ($30) Dark cherry and floral notes open to a plush palate with spicy oak and evolving savoury undertones before a lengthy finish.
TOI TOI RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2014, CENTRAL OTAGO, CLUTHA ($30) Lifted bright cherry notes on top followed by a generous polished cherry and raspberry palate with earthy notes and hints of spicy oak in the close.
VILLA MARIA HAWKE’S BAY CELLAR SELECTION SYRAH 2014 ($35) Upfront plummy and meaty notes before a well-balanced, juicy and slightly peppery palate, with approachable tannins and a lingering finish.
WAIMEA ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2012, WAIMEA PLAINS ($30) Lifted black cherry notes on top, followed by a plush medium-bodied palate. Some mocha and plum hints wrapped in approachable tannins.
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From Hawke’s Bay Bordeaux varieties to Central Otago Pinot Noir and much, much more, this remarkable island nation has a full array of wines to tease our palates. In fact, when I first visited, I was struck both by the contrast among the regions and by the remarkable variety of wines produced. I was also surprised to discover that there are parts of New Zealand that are very reminiscent of British Columbia. For instance, if you drive east through the strikingly beautiful and rugged Gibbston Valley into Central Otago, you will likely be reminded very much of the Similkameen, with vineyards planted on mountainside benches. Once in Otago, the similarities to the Okanagan Valley — both in climate and landscape — are unmistakeable. Similarly, head west to Nelson and you might be reminded of a corner of Vancouver Island, except with greener grass and more sheep. MUCH LIKE THE OKANAGAN, but on a far greater scale, what New Zealand has its land mass and viticultural regions going for it, stacked up by longitude rather than by latitude — as is the case in most of the world’s major wine-producing countries. New Zealand’s grape-growing regions span almost the entire length of its 1,600 kilometres. Not only that, almost every vine planted is at most 120 kilometres from the ocean (and usually a whole lot less), which means that maritime influences result in ideal diurnal conditions to help nurture the acidity that defines so many Kiwi wines. The wide array of differing climates and settings allow New Zealand winemakers the chance to grow a remarkable diaspora of different varieties. Since it’s the driver behind Sauvignon Blanc, it should come as no surprise that Marlborough accounts for 77 percent of the country’s production. However, as elsewhere, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris are on the rise.
left: Head winemaker at Waimea Estate, Trudy Sheild; top: The MacDonald family from Te Pã
The point is that, while the Kiwis now make wicked Sauvignon Blanc in just about every style imaginable, they’re more than able to keep their powder dry for other varieties. And the signs are there that things might be changing. A couple of years ago, Jancis Robinson noted: “Diversity is in and it was notable that when three of New Zealand’s finest wine producers separately trekked to London recently to show off their past and present vintages, among more than 50 wines shown not a single one was a Sauvignon Blanc.” A prominent Kiwi who’s spoken out on the need to think ahead to the post-Savvy era is Villa Maria founder Sir George Fistonich. While he never downplays the incomparable role that Sauvignon Blanc plays and will continue to play, he’s also been busy looking at other options. One grape that interests him is Albariño, which his winery grows in Gisborne. In fact, the Villa Maria Cellar Selection Gisborne Albariño 2014 won Pure Gold at the Air New Zealand 2014 Wine Awards. While Albariño may be the sexy new kid on the block, it’s more likely that Pinot Noir will continue its ascent as New Zealand’s favourite red, with increasing attention being paid to Chardonnay and Pinot Gris — all of which represent similar volumes in the country’s plantings. Even though Pinot Noir accounts for a mere 8 percent of total production, its fortunes also continue to be on the rise — in great part due to a focus on quality and attention to terroir rather than volume, which has more than caught the attention of Burgundy lovers and Pinotphiles around the world.
One of the country’s Pinot pioneers, Ata Rangi helped led the early charge that helped put tiny Martinborough (in Wairarapa, North Island) on the map alongside Central Otago’s rise to Pinot pre-eminence. Founder Clive Paton sold his herd of cattle to establish his vineyard in the late 1970s. He was intrigued by studies that drew comparisons between Martinborough and Burgundy, and had a hunch that this area’s rocky soils, windy climate and distinctive alluvial gravel terrace could be just the ticket. Ata Rangi was also a trailblazer in other areas that have since become part of the modern Kiwi mantra. The winery was among the earliest proponents of sustainable winemaking (which laid the foundation for the industry’s SWNZ initiative) and was among the first ISO 14001 certified wineries in the world. Again, New Zealand’s range of contrasting soils and climates allows the largest producing regions of Martinborough, Marlborough and Central Otago to produce varying styles. Over the last couple decades in particular, plantings have continued to expand, partly in response to outside influences. New Zealand Wine reports that Pinot Noir acreage increased from 10,039 acres in 2006 to 13,748 acres in 2015. Furthermore, exports of Pinot Noir almost doubled between 2008 and 2015. While production will never rival the volume of Sauvignon Blanc produced, New Zealand’s reputation as a quality-driven producer of Pinot Noir and other varieties across the board more than bodes well for the future. × OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 33
RE-INVENTION by Michael Pinkus
AUSTRALIA… we all know it as the home of Shiraz (which, as we all know, is just Syrah in the witness protection program). But Australia does more than just Shiraz, though it is their most planted red variety. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot would be the next big grapes in the country’s red sphere, followed by Pinot Noir, then varietals like Grenache, Malbec, Mourvèdre, Tempranillo and Petit Verdot. Even the Tuscan staple Sangiovese is making an appearance in Australian vineyards. Whites shouldn’t come as any surprise: Chardonnay remains king, with the global favourites Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc also high on the list. But Sémillon is also there — and, let me tell you, aged Australian Sémillon can be one of the most intriguing white wines in the world. And Pinot Gris and Viognier are also in the mix. The Aussies fully admit that they needed an evolutionary period, one where they came to realize they were no longer top dog and that they needed to change to win back wine drinkers. That need to re-invent themselves has resulted in a revolution: wineries making more than just Chardonnay and Shiraz, but not by phasing out those grapes either. The days of over-oaked wines and big fruit bombs are in the past (and, although that style still does exist, it seems less common among the higher end wines). The focus is now on better styles, more modern approaches and, above all, fruit and terroir. It is no longer just okay to deliver big red raspberry, pepper and chocolate (Shiraz) or vanilla buttery baked apple, oak-laden (Chardonnay) — finesse, depth and freshness are all playing a part in Australia’s revolution and we are the winners for it. 34 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
But let’s face facts: Australia is still the home of the big reds — that’s what having all that heat and sunshine will do for you. So, when looking at the new face of Aussie reds, that face still includes Shiraz, but there is so much more from which to choose.
WIRRA WIRRA CHURCH BLOCK CABERNET SAUVIGNON/SHIRAZ/ MERLOT 2013 ($19.95) A blend with a real pulse: fruit-forward but with vanilla, smoked-cherry and sweetmeat flavours on the finish.
MOLLYDOOKER THE BOXER SHIRAZ 2014 ($33.95) Dark, brooding with wild blueberry, blackberry and smoky dark fruit, and a peppery finish. Sounds typical but there’s finesse behind the power.
THORN-CLARKE SHOTFIRE QUARTAGE 2013 ($21.95) Get to know Thorn-Clarke and their lineup of awesome reds, including this 4-grape blend with mocha, blackberry and white pepper flavours.
WAKEFIELD JARAMAN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013 ($24.95) Far from ordinary, herbs and spices mix with smoky black fruit, olive and bay leaf. Quite complex and really enjoyable.
PIPING SHRIKE SHIRAZ 2013 ($18.95) Think you know Aussie Shiraz? Think again. Here, we have blue- and blackberry, cassis, coffee bean and white pepper. Some you know, some are new and welcome flavours.
THORN-CLARKE SHOTFIRE SHIRAZ 2013 ($21.95) Always such a delicious wine. This time with chocolate, blackberry, cherry, herb and spice. Rich and flavourful, it’s what you’re looking for in a Shiraz but lifted to another level.
BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE GRENACHE/SHIRAZ/MOURVEDRE 2012 ($21.95) GSMs are standard Aussie fare, but standard in such a good way: silky red fruit, a little white smoke, raspberry, cherry and subtle spice.
GLAETZER WALLACE SHIRAZ/GRENACHE 2012 ($28.95) If you see Grenache on the label, be ready for something good, especially from Oz and especially when blended. Fruit-forward raspberry and strawberry, with chocolate, violets and wood smoke, this one’s pretty and very flavourful.
GLAETZER BISHOP SHIRAZ 2013 ($40) Don’t write off Glaetzer for making high-alcohol wines: their wines are layered and luxurious, which is what makes them so good. Blackberry, white pepper, plum, cherry, vanilla and oak feature in this Shiraz. Ripe and yummy.
BRASH HIGGINS NERO D’AVOLA AMPHORA PROJECT 2015 ($55) Not what you’d expect from Australia and Nero (first, you don’t expect Nero), but this one is loaded with juicy raspberry, strawberry, white pepper, violets and nice round tannins — it’s a new way to look at Nero.
ALPHA BOX HEAD WINEMAKER SAM BERKETA
STEVE FLAMSTEED FROM INNOCENT BYSTANDER
OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 35
with mineral, spice, dark berries and bittersweet chocolate, and a gritty/spicy finish.
MOSS WOOD AMY’S 2014 ($55) A blend of Cab Sauv, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot that is just layered with aromas and flavours: mocha, liquorice, black cherry and vanilla, along with touches of smoky and cedary notes on the finish.
LEEUWIN ESTATE ART SERIES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013 ($68) Creamy palate that shows off milk chocolate notes (a real rarity in any wine), plus there’s also raspberry, cherry and blackberry. A total treat.
CIRILLO 1850 THE VINCENT GRENACHE 2015 ($30)
BRAD HICKEY (AKA BRASH HIGGINS)
MR RIGGS YACCA PADDOCK TEMPRANILLO 2013 ($20.95)
TWO HANDS SEXY BEAST CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013 ($27.95)
A Spanish staple goes south with great results: chocolate, pepper, cherry, cola and spice with nice tannins. This one shows real personality in the glass.
Gorgeous and silky with mint, strawberry, cassis, blackberry and a spicy finish.
TWELFTREE GREENOCK EBENEZER GRENACHE/MATARO 2012 ($23.95)
Not big and over the top, this Grenache is soft and subtle with raspberry and chocolate. Also shows a lovely juiciness in a sweet-ish (of fruit) not sugar sense. Sexy and pretty style of wine.
Mataro (aka, Mourvedre) shows its softer side when you pair it with something big and bold like Grenache. Floral, cherry, plum and vanilla; this one’s quite silky.
GEMTREE UNCUT SHIRAZ 2012 ($25) Pretty all the way through, with minerally/ chalky, liquorice, cedar and dark chocolate layers. Spiced-raspberry, and elegant peppery goodness on the finish.
HOLLICK RAVENSWOOD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012 ($75) Delivers rich, ripe dark fruit à la black cherry, with touches of eucalyptus, white pepper and really balanced acidity.
OCHOTA BARRELS I AM THE OWL SYRAH 2015 ($60) First thing to notice is the name: out with Shiraz, in with the more-worldly Syrah. Meaty, smoky and minerally, along with balsamic, strawberries and peppery notes. Very elegant. 36 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
JAUMA LIKE RAINDROPS GRENACHE 2015 ($60)
ALPHA BOX & DICE XOLA AGLIANICO 2011 ($45) Another Italian grape exiles itself on Australian shores. Aged 4 years in seasoned oak. Cooked plums and baked cherries mix with floral elements on the nose — the palate shows off some liquorice, herbal and spicy character along with cassis and blackberry.
SOUMAH SINGLE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2015 ($34.95) Fruit-forward in a California kind of way: big raspberry with hints of strawberry course through the mouth, but then it pulls back the reins with good acidity to balance everything off.
D’ARENBERG THE DERELICT VINEYARD GRENACHE 2012 ($35) An abandoned century-old vineyard is resurrected in this bottling to great effect
A light style of Grenache compared to many coming from Australia: ripe raspberry and plenty of other red fruit but all with a gentle, reserved kind of juiciness that doesn’t mow you down with flavour; it sidles up to you seductively and kisses your taste buds.
INNOCENT BYSTANDER PINOT NOIR 2015 ($25) Surprisingly delicate and elegant for Australia, which is sometimes not the most delicate place to find Pinot: strawberry and raspberry with those tell-tale earthy notes that really make this one a winner.
ULUPNA LATE HARVEST SHIRAZ 2012 ($29) Not a dessert wine but one that gets harvested late and remains dry, with such concentrated fruit and other characteristics — like mocha and black cherry — then there’s a pepperiness that sneaks up on you and lingers.
ELDERTON HIGH ALTITUDE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013 ($19.95) The acidity is surprising for an Aussie wine and it is so beautifully balanced. Plus there are layers of floral, anise, plum and mocha. And all at only 13.5% alcohol.
STONIER PINOT NOIR 2015 ($40) The mid-palate screams cranberry while raspberry and strawberry round it off on the finish — but it’s that hint of sour fruit at the start that makes you stand up and take notice. ×
MAVERICK Every year, Quench profiles Canadian chefs who are making a mark on the culinary world. We’ve seen trendsetters make “eating local” part of the everyday menu. We’ve highlighted unique protein choices (kangaroo, anyone?); and then there’s the fun blend of traditional cuisine with a modern twist. Our current line of Mavericks do all of the above (except, maybe, the kangaroo thing) but what really sets them apart is their defining factor: they’re bringing the garden back to centre stage … or centre plate, if you will. Chef Jesse McCleery serves forest-foraged goodies and locally sourced produce at Pilgrimme in British Columbia. In Saskatoon, Chef Christie Peters serves fresh vegetables from her backyard garden at The Hollows. Chef Cory Vitiello sources produce from Toronto’s farms to highlight in his dishes at The Harbord Room. Finally, Chef Jakob Lutes adds brightness and energy to traditional Maritime recipes. Among other things, I asked all four Mav Chefs about this shift to make veggies the main dish, instead of just a supporting character. Their answers were quite enlightening, proving that they’ve definitely earned the title of Maverick.
2016
by Lisa Hoekstra
CHEFS OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 37
CHRISTIE PETERS THE HOLLOWS SASKATOON, SK Chef Christie Peters redefines green thumb. Her vegetable-focused menu uses ingredients she literally grows in the backyard. In 2011, after working in San Francisco, Amsterdam and Spain, Peters opened her own restaurant with her partner and husband, Kyle Michael. Her menu includes contemporary food that focuses on natural, seasonal products. When her garden lies dormant for the winter, she serves up a range of delicious fermented dishes made by her and her staff throughout the growing season. What’s really intriguing, though, is that her menu changes as she evolves as a chef — she’s constantly experimenting with new ways to bring out the flavour of her garden in unique Saskatchewan cuisine.
WHY OPEN YOUR OWN RESTAURANT? I feel that it was always something that I just knew I was going to do, even before I started cooking. My decision to start cooking was actually spurred by my early desire to have my own restaurant. Watching other restaurant owners, I realized that you don't have a lot of power or say in a restaurant unless you are the one cooking the food.
WHEN YOU PLANNED YOUR RESTAURANT, WHAT WAS THE BIGGEST HURDLE YOU HAD TO OVERCOME? Getting capital to start The Hollows with no investors was more difficult than anticipated. Bankers informed me that restaurants are too high risk. But if I wanted to open a Tim Hortons, maybe they would reconsider (very Canadian of them). I had to apply for a small personal loan and lie about how I was going to use it.
HOW DO YOUR EXPERIENCES IN AMSTERDAM AND SAN FRANCISCO INFLUENCE THE MENUS YOU CREATE? In Amsterdam, I worked at De Kas, a restaurant inside a greenhouse. It was the first restaurant that I had worked at that had its own garden on site, and their own farm growing produce specifically for them. I was inspired by the quality of the ingredients and the connection to the land, with cooks actually going out and harvesting. Even the lack of packaging was impressive: farmers would bring in vegetables in big baskets, still covered in dirt. In San Francisco, I was inspired by Chef Daniel Patterson’s foraging around the city, creating an authentic cuisine, local to San Francisco. He was discovering new ingredients and giving those ingredients value. This is what we try to do every day with the cuisine of Saskatchewan, because there is so much here that is undiscovered. 38 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO GROW YOUR OWN VEGETABLES? Gardening is a major passion of mine. It is an important and difficult skill that takes years to master. Each year is different, so you really need to be in tune with nature. Being able to grow your own food is a skill that goes hand in hand with cooking. We have been able to be self-sufficient above and beyond other restaurants that are ordering from large suppliers. They have no control over the market, and often not the quality. Growing our own produce, the quality and freshness are unparalleled. Also our gardens inspire the way I cook: seeing the work that goes into growing the food makes me appreciate the true value of each ingredient and to find new and creative ways to use all parts of the vegetable. A chef friend of mine recently tweeted “chefs gardening is the new chefs foraging.” I laughed at the trend but I will continue to do both.
USING INGREDIENTS FROM YOUR OWN GARDEN AND LOCALLY SOURCED INGREDIENTS, IS THERE A RISK THAT YOU’LL RUN OUT BEFORE A NIGHT IS THROUGH? Quite the opposite! Running out of ingredients is not an issue. In Saskatchewan, the growing season is brief and intense. We have to grow enough food in the summer months to sustain us throughout the rest of the year. We are constantly experimenting with new preservation methods in order to stretch the bounty of the summer harvest through the dead of winter.
WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT COOKING? I love that it is hands on, practical and puts you in the moment. To be able to feed yourself and those around you is one of the most important life skills a person can have.
WHAT IS YOUR MOST MEMORABLE/FAVOURITE FOOD MOMENT TO DATE? After my first stage at Boneta, I sat at the bar and Chef Jérémie Bastien cooked for me. The first course was a slice of firm, fresh ahi tuna that he had just hand-selected from the fishmonger that afternoon. His expert preparation was so simple and pure that it is still one the most memorable food experiences. Now, as a Chef, I know that the most simple preparations require the most skill, and can have the most dramatic impact. It’s all about quality and subtlety, and the ingredient itself.
HOW DO YOU MANAGE RUNNING TWO SUCCESSFUL RESTAURANTS AND A THRIVING GARDEN? I couldn’t do any of this without my business partner and husband, Kyle Michael. We have a great team that is always willing to help out with any of my crazy endeavours, from stealing alley rhubarb to brushing out freshly tanned hides. Our servers are always willing to pitch in, whether with kitchen prep, processing the harvest or blending wild-foraged teas. Our restaurants are very close in proximity, which allows me to go back and forth between them countless times in a day. We also have a professional horticulturist on staff who oversees our gardens, and we work together very closely. Around here, we are never bored — on a slow night you may find us testing new recipes, experimenting with new cocktails, or “researching” new rosés. The way that we run our restaurants keeps everyone engaged.
WHAT IS THE ONE THING YOU ABSOLUTELY CAN’T STAND ABOUT THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY THAT YOU HAVE TRIED TO FIX/CORRECT IN YOUR RESTAURANT? The waste. We have tried to rectify this in our restaurants in every way possible. We compost all of our food waste. We do only whole animal butchery, using every part of the animal, including tanning the hides and making soap from the excess animal fat. All broken glass is donated to a local glass artist. Both restaurants share one dumpster that is picked up once a month, and is rarely ever full.
BEET STEM CONSERVE 1 lb beet stems, minced against the grain 1 large onion, diced 1 bulb garlic, thinly sliced 2 tbsp salt 250 ml extra virgin olive oil 10 garden tomatoes, skin removed and crushed (roma tomatoes preferred) 1. Sauté beet stems, onions, garlic and salt in olive oil in a large pot over medium heat until tender. 2. Add crushed tomatoes to increase acidity; bring to a boil. 3. Ladle into hot, sterilized canning jars. Tighten lids. Wait for jars to seal (listen for that satisfying “pop”). Can be eaten immediately, or cellared until later. 4. Delicious on pasta, with polenta, or as a flavour addition to soups and sauces.
OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 39
JESSE MCCLEERY PILGRIMME RESTAURANT GALIANO ISLAND, BC Jesse McCleery creates a taste of the island at his forest restaurant with his unpretentious approach to food: guests share platters of delicious, creative flavours made from local produce and foraged ingredients. McCleery has cooked his way all over British Columbia, from the Clayoquot Wilderness Resort on Vancouver Island to the King Pacific Lodge in northern BC. His resumé also includes a six-month apprenticeship at Noma in Copenhagen, where fermented, pickled and powdered cooking techniques are applied with great success. McCleery applies his experience wisely at Pilgrimme: the entire menu is ingredient driven, with a strong focus on vegetables and Canadian grains. WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT COOKING? The fact that you will never know everything; there will always be something to learn. And perfection doesn’t exist, only the idea.
WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO OPEN PILGRIMME? Basically, to have the freedom to express my philosophies and ideas of food, our food system and our environment — to create the change I wanted to see.
IF YOU COULD DESCRIBE YOUR CULINARY STYLE IN ONE WORD, WHAT WOULD IT BE?
HOW IMPORTANT ARE VEGETABLES WHEN YOU’RE PLANNING YOUR MENU? Vegetables are almost always the primary focus. In the winter months, we tend to be heavy on the ferments, pickles and dried ingredients. It gives us a wider range of flavours and textures when winter squash and winter greens are a lot of what we see.
USING LOCALLY SOURCED INGREDIENTS, IS THERE A RISK THAT YOU’LL RUN OUT? Yes, we tend to put the more limited ingredients on our blackboard, and print the menu with the dishes where the ingredients have a more steady harvest or we have a good stock of preserves.
Simple, ingredient driven.
WHAT SURPRISES HAVE YOU HAD WITH A RESTAURANT IN A FOREST AND ON AN ISLAND? There have been many surprises, things I had never thought about: worries of the well running dry in the summer; trees falling in the middle of the night ripping out our phone line; no Internet at the restaurant for the payment system. These are just a few things that changed the way we were used to doing things that make us cautious, aware and grateful.
WHAT SORT OF INGREDIENTS DO YOU FORAGE IN THE FOREST AND WHAT ROLE DO THEY PLAY IN YOUR RESTAURANT? We forage for many things from the forest, fields, beaches and water. Tree tips and buds, daisy leaves and flowers, sea vegetables and bull kelp — and many more. They all play an important role at Pilgrimme because they are of the island and full of life. We want our guests to try new things, to become grounded with a sense of place. We hope they leave with the feeling that Galiano is as special a place as we believe it to be.
WHAT IS THE ONE THING YOU ABSOLUTELY CAN’T STAND ABOUT THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY THAT YOU HAVE TRIED TO FIX/CORRECT AT PILGRIMME?
WHY SERVE YOUR DISHES AS SHARING PLATES INSTEAD OF INDIVIDUAL DISHES?
Ha ha, where to begin. I can’t say I try to correct it, but one thing I hope for is that people will stop feeling the need to take so many photos of the food. Instead, be present in the moment, enjoy it and company you are in. I’d be a liar if I said I never photograph an amazing plate, but sometimes one is enough, sometimes none is better. I believe the experience — the energy, tastes and people one chooses to share the meal — even as a faded memory many years later, can outlive any social media post or photo.
There are several reasons. First and foremost, we like to eat that way; to share food, create discussion and chemistry between our guests. Secondly, we started with bare equipment and literally only myself in the kitchen doing all the cooking and dishes for the first seven months — it was the only possible way to put the food out in an organized way when the dining room was busy. We do plan on adding a tasting menu in the very near future and currently serve tasting menus when desired, kind of omakase style.
40 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
PEACHES STEWED IN KVASS AND BUTTER When BC fruits are abundant in peak summer we end up with many that are a little far gone. As well, making real sourdough in the restaurant, we do not sell them all or have stale ends. So we make a fermented beverage or stick with rye berry, the left over bread, honey and aromatics. Our food is very simple in most ways but involves a lot of building blocks that need advance preparation (bases, ferments, etc.) This is one snack we serve.
250 25 250 35
Peaches, overripe g organic cream g honey g kvass (recipe to follow) g butter Fresh dill Parsley leaves
1. Cut peaches in half around the pit and separate. Remove pit and set aside. 2. Take peach halves and place in a dehydrator at 125˚F until quite dry but still malleable (time varies depending on size). Set aside. 3. Crack peach pits with a hammer or mallet. Not too hard, as you do not want to crush the kernel. Remove small kernel from each pit.
4. Peel each kernel, revealing the white, fragrant, true peach kernel. Steep peeled kernels on low heat in cream and honey. Strain and discard kernels. Let cream cool. Once chilled, whisk to soft peaks and set aside. 5. Place dried peach halves in a sauce pot; add kvass and butter. Simmer and cook down until peaches soften and a nice sauce forms. Remove from heat and stir to emulsify the kvass and butter sauce. 6. Spoon warm peaches and sauce into a plate. Garnish with dill and parsley, spoon over kernel cream. Serve at room temperature.
KVASS
1 kg water 75 g honey 200 g stale sourdough 75 g sprouted rye berry 15 g salt Fresh bay leaves 10 g each toasted: peppercorn, coriander seed, caraway seed (all toasted) Combine all ingredients and seal in a container, let ferment 1 week stirring or agitating the mix at least 3 times a day. After 6 to 7 days the liquid should be soured and slightly carbonated. Strain and refrigerate in an appropriate container, glass is best. OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 41
JAKOB LUTES PORT CITY ROYAL SAINT JOHN, NB There’s a lot more to eat in the Maritimes than just fish. In fact, Maritime cuisine has a long tradition of comforting, filling recipes — something Chef Jakob Lutes is trying to tell the world through his restaurant. Lutes serves dishes like ploye, crispy haddock and beet salad. His menu rotates regularly, based on the ingredients available locally — and the inspiration provided by his customers and team. At Port City Royal, they do small-batch cooking, preparing just enough for the people they expect and not wasting any food. Modern, with a bit of grit; comfortable luxury — these are just a few ways to describe Port City Royal and the mark Lutes is making on the New Brunswick restaurant scene.
WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT COOKING? I enjoy the hospitality of it all. The relationship between the guest and host is fascinating to me. Otherwise, I’m pure glutton.
WHY DID YOU CHOOSE SAINT JOHN AS YOUR BASE OF OPERATIONS? I felt the history, aesthetics and location could act as a catalyst for the restaurant’s creativity.
YOUR MENU IS MADE UP OF LOCAL MARITIME CUISINE — WHY CHOOSE TO MAKE DISHES LIKE PLOYE? The cultural history of the Maritimes fascinates me. The food at one point was very much sustenance driven, valuing textures that have since fallen out of fashion, and a taste that favoured the sweet. I like drawing connections between Maritime cuisine and others from around the world. For instance, the ploye would have originally been used as a wrap. Because it’s only cooked on the one side, it folds without tearing, making it well suited for travel. Interpreting these dishes and reimagining them for the restaurant is a lot of fun.
HOW IMPORTANT ARE VEGETABLES WHEN YOU’RE PLANNING YOUR MENU? Vegetables are the truest reflection of the season, so they really are the most important element. When they are at their prime, we do our best to leave the flavour as pure as possible. But we also immediately get to work preserving them for the winter and early spring as well. 42 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
USING LOCALLY SOURCED INGREDIENTS, IS THERE A RISK THAT YOU’LL RUN OUT BEFORE A NIGHT IS THROUGH? There is, especially with proteins. We allow the market to dictate how the menu develops. If our poultry supplier only has eight Cornish game hens, then that is what we work with. The menu will change as often as daily. Most customers understand when a dish is no longer available. Customer inconvenience is the price we pay to ensure the suppliers get a fair wage and that the product is as sustainable as possible.
WHAT IS THE ONE THING YOU ABSOLUTELY CAN’T STAND ABOUT THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY THAT YOU HAVE TRIED TO FIX/CORRECT IN YOUR RESTAURANT? Our kitchen isn’t structured in the typical hierarchal way most kitchens are. I want to hear everyone's opinion. Everyone has a say. But with creativity comes rejection, which can be hard to take. There is a lot more communication needed with this structure.
PHOTO: SCOTT MUNN
BLACKENED CATFISH WITH WILD GARLIC PURÉE We serve this dish with seasonal vegetables and fresh wild garlic bulbs. When not in season, we replace the wild garlic with wild garlic purée (recipe below).
CATFISH
Blackening Blend (recipe below) Butter 1. Coat one side of the catfish with the Blackening Blend. 2. Heat a small cast-iron pan on high with a tablespoon of but-
ter in the pan. When the butter begins to foam, add the catfish to the pan, blackening blend side down. If the fish begins to fry dry, add another tablespoon of butter. Cook until blackened, approximately 2 minutes. 3. Flip the fish and remove from heat. Continue to cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish.
BLACKENING BLEND
WHERE DOES THE NAME PORT CITY ROYAL COME FROM? Monica Adair of Acre Architects suggested it. We had tossed ideas around for months, but Port City Royal encompassed the soul of the restaurant and its place within the city and province.
WHAT IS YOUR MOST MEMORABLE/FAVOURITE FOOD MOMENT TO DATE? Breakfast at my grandparents’. The bacon was microwaved and the orange drink was Tang, but everything else was fresh and the hospitality reigned supreme.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE COMFORT MEAL? Toast, jam, bacon and eggs, layered as an open sandwich with salt and fresh-cracked pepper.
1 1 3 3 3 5
g dried thyme g dried lemon thyme g black pepper g white pepper g dried yarrow g kosher salt
Blend together until uniform.
WILD GARLIC PURÉE 200 g wild garlic tops 100 g butter 300 g water 50 g pear vinegar 1.3 g xanthan gum Salt
Place the wild garlic, butter, water and vinegar in a blender. Blend until smooth. With the blender running, slowly sprinkle in the xanthan gum. Season to taste. OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 43
CORY VITIELLO HARBORD ROOM TORONTO, ON If there were ever a Maverick who was born to cook, it would be Chef Cory Vitiello. He began cooking commercially when he was 15 years old, running a catering company from his parents’ house in Brantford, Ontario; he attended the Stratford Chefs School when he was 17 and apprenticed at Scaramouche Restaurant at 19. Today, he is a familiar face to foodies across the country — he has appeared on ETalk, Canada AM, Global, CityLine, Breakfast Television, The Marilyn Denis Show and NBC’s Today Show as well as the Food Network’s cooking show Chef in Your Ear. But television appearances aside, he hasn’t lost touch with his more modest roots. At Harbord Room, he combines small-town hospitality with big-city flair, serving seasonally driven plates made to include everything from nose to tail.
WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT COOKING? Mostly it’s about working alongside inspired people towards a common goal that is hospitality.
IF YOU COULD DESCRIBE YOUR CULINARY STYLE IN ONE WORD, WHAT WOULD IT BE? It's always evolving but boils down to simplicity. I don’t like fussy food.
HOW IMPORTANT ARE VEGETABLES WHEN YOU’RE PLANNING YOUR MENU? My cooking has evolved over the years to showcase vegetables as the stars on the plate — there are endless flavours, textures and possibilities.
HOW HAVE YOUR EXPERIENCES INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE AND MENU DEVELOPMENT? Working at Scaramouche under Keith Froggett was hands down the most influential period of my education. He’s a perfectionist in the kitchen, a natural teacher and mentor to his team, and leads by example. If there is any one chef/restauranteur I wish I could emulate, it’s Keith. My years as Anthony Rose’s sous-chef, though I’ll rarely publicly admit it, were equally impactful in shaping the way I cook and think about food to this day. He taught me about natural, beautiful food with all the bullshit stripped away. 44 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO OPEN YOUR OWN RESTAURANT? It had a lot to do with where the restaurant industry was at nine years ago, and the type of place I wanted to work in. At that time, there were very few small, chef-driven restaurants; AmuseBouche and Niagara Street Café were revelatory experiences for me back then and I craved that environment.
WHEN YOU PLANNED YOUR RESTAURANT, WHAT WAS THE BIGGEST DECISION YOU HAD TO MAKE/ BIGGEST HURDLE YOU HAD TO OVERCOME? Fortunately, I had two partners (and still do) to hit the highs and lows with. For us, and I’m sure for any new restaurant, financing was by far the biggest challenge. We barely managed to get the doors open and had an even tougher time keeping them open for that first February in 2008.
USING LOCALLY SOURCED INGREDIENTS, IS THERE A RISK THAT YOU’LL RUN OUT BEFORE A NIGHT IS THROUGH? We try to use as much locally sourced product as we can, for many obvious reasons, first and foremost to support the community that supports us here in the restaurant. You have to pay it forward.
STEAMED SUMMER BERRY PUDDING 1 3 3 1 1/2 1/2 1/4 3/4 3/4
cup sugar, divided + 2 tbsp for dusting ramekins tbsp canola oil Canola spray (about 1 tsp) eggs, separated cup milk cup fresh lemon juice cup cake flour, sifted tsp salt cup fresh blueberries cup fresh raspberries Fresh mint leaves, for garnish Vanilla ice cream, for serving
1. Preheat your oven to 350°F. 2. Spray and sugar 10, 6 oz (175 ml) ramekins and lay them in
HAVE YOUR TV APPEARANCES IMPACTED YOUR BUSINESS OR DAILY LIFE? TV and media work allowed our restaurant to hit a much larger audience. We’re so fortunate that various media outlets and journalists have taken such an interest in us. It’s still humbling all these years later.
WHAT IS YOUR MOST MEMORABLE/FAVOURITE FOOD MOMENT TO DATE? My most memorable food moment to date is always the last time I was able to cook for my parents. Doesn’t happen enough.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE COMFORT MEAL? Fried chicken.
a rectangular cake pan that is deep enough to allow for boiling water to come 2/3 the way up their sides. 3. In a large mixing bowl, whip the egg yolks and half the sugar until light and airy. Combine the milk, lemon juice, cake flour, pinch of salt and canola oil very gently into the egg yolks, taking care not to over mix. You just want to bring this mixture together – overworking it will result in a tough final product. 4. In a large, clean mixing bowl, whip the egg whites until light and fluffy. Slowly add the remaining sugar while continuing to whisk. We’re looking for stiff peaks and a very glossy finish. 5. Gently fold the whites into the batter mixture until just incorporated. 6. Evenly distribute the fresh berries into the 10 ramekins and pour the batter over until it reaches 1 cm under the lip of the ramekin. 7. Place the cake pan holding the ramekins on the middle rack and carefully pour boiling water 2/3 of the way up the ramekins. Cook the pudding for approximately 30 minutes or until just cooked but still very moist in the middle. 8. Serve immediately by inverting the ramekins onto the dessert plate to release the pudding, serving with fresh berries, mint leaves and vanilla ice cream. × OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 45
SAKE IT TO ME by Tod Stewart Course 1: Striped Bass / Fish Broth / Jalapeño / Cilantro by Chef Scott Vivian Course 2: Crispy Olíffes 90-Day Chili Beef with Szechuan Peppercorn Pastrami / Pickled Wild Leeks / Grilled Garlic Scapes / Fried Chili by Chef Nick Liu Course 3: Toroniku / Marinated Negi / Soft Egg, Seeds by Chef Richie Nakano Course 4: Chocolate / Sesame Tea / Rhubarb by Chef Bertrand Alépée Course 5: Yuzu / Bergamot / Lime + White Chocolate-wrapped Caramel / Caramelized Hazelnut + Milk Chocolate Dragée with Kinako Sake Kasu / Honey + Sake Bonbon with Rice Cracker Crunch / Miso Butterscotch Bonbon by Chef David H. Chow As a foodie, you’re likely strapping on the drool cup. As a somm, it’s cold sweat time. How can you possibly be expected to pair wine with this cyclone of aromas, flavours, textures, spices and sweetness? First, start by passing on wine. What really worked for the amazing gastronomic adventure outlined above was beer. Oh, right ... beer! Beer works with everything, right? The hops, the malt, the bubbles! Okay, right match, wrong type of beer. The beer that accompanied these dishes was the one that’s often mistakenly called “wine” — namely, sake. That sake is rapidly gaining interest, especially in Canada, is a bit of an understatement. According to some recent export figures provided by Japan External Trade Organization (JETRO), Canada is (significantly) outpacing the rest of the world in sake volume imports. The growing popularity of sake — and the ever-present popularity of eating — has led, not surprisingly, to the predilection towards pairing the two. But if you are inclined to think the Japanese are masters at this, with a long, respected tradition of sake and food pairing, think again. 46 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
At the fifth annual Kampai Toronto Festival of Sake, I had the good fortune to attend a sake and food-pairing seminar led by John Gauntner, a fellow widely recognized as the world’s foremost non-Japanese sake expert. What he had to say on the subject was as interesting as it was eye opening. “The matching of sake and food in Japan developed much like the matching of wine and food: the local beverage was a natural counterpart to the local cuisine,” said Gauntner. “If you study the flavour profiles of sake from around Japan, you can easily see how well the local sake jibes with the original cuisine of the various regions.” He cited the natural relationship between the salt-preserved and fermented foods of the mountain regions and the sturdier sake produced in those regions; and the combination of lighter, suppler sake styles and seafood from coastal regions and port towns. However, as the country’s population began to expand beyond these two main regions — and international dishes became more available — the pairing of specific sake with specific types of food
became more varied. Still, Gauntner noted that actual “thought-out” sake and food pairing is a relatively new concept in Japan. “The truth is that, until recently, sake had taken much more of a supportive role in cuisine in Japan,” he said, adding that this situation is changing... fast. Pairing sake and food in Japan — both traditional and more modern — would seem to be something of a no-brainer (“what grows together, goes together,” and all that). But it’s only beginning to be commonplace in Canada. Challenges still face those trying to get the sake/food (of any kind) message across. “The number one challenge is most people don’t think of pairing sake and food. And the number one misconception is that it only works with light, seafood-based dishes,” says Vivian Hatherell, owner of Metropolitan Wines and Spirits, a leading Ontario sake distributor. “The overall challenge is really due to sake being misunderstood, with most people still believing it to be either the unpleasant, rough alcohol type served hot, or far too niche to be flexible for general use. If we get over that hump, then the misconcep-
SCOTT VIVIAN
MICHAEL TREMBLAY OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 47
Size matters
You might have noticed that sake typically comes in bottle sizes that are pretty unique. No wine-bottle-sized 375, 750 or 1,000 ml, but rather, 180, 300 and 720 ml and 1.8 litre numbers. What gives? I ask Mariko Tajiri, a sake specialist and national brand manager with That’s Life Gourmet Ltd. to clue me in. “The masu is the basic unit of measurement in Japan, and it is 180 ml,” she explains. “It’s the volume of the square wooden box used to measure rice in Japan during the Feudal period. Sake uses this unit of measurement, which is why a bottle of sake is traditionally 1.8 l (10x180 ml) or 720 ml (4x180 ml).” I personally find the handy 180 ml size to be perfect for a single serving with dinner. “The 300 ml bottles were created as people in Japan started to consume less sake,” Tajiri reveals, “and for the export market.” In any case, the higher alcohol content and unique constitution of sake ensure that an open bottle of sake will stay fresh in in the fridge for up to a couple weeks. But fresher is better!
tion is that pairing suggestions will be for lighter dishes, when really some sakes are fantastic with smoked flavours, spicy flavours and pickled flavours.” That sake and food really does work was made deliciously apparent to me over the course (or several courses, to be accurate) of some recent sake dinners, including the one whose menu prefaces this piece. It was the brainchild of Hatherell and staged at Toronto’s The Tempered Room. While not exactly “traditional” (and not exactly Japanese), it certainly helped demonstrate the ability of sake to match beautifully with not-exactly-Asian dishes. (More on that in a bit.) The other dinner events (and “events” is putting it mildly) took place again in Toronto, at ki modern Japanese + bar, and Miku, two upmarket Japanese dining establishments. 48 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
At these dinners, the fact that the sake and main courses worked together nicely wasn’t a huge surprise. The dishes served were complex, relatively subtle and often richly textured. The sake tended to fit the same profile: each one had a creamy mouthfeel, balanced acidity and delicate-yet-intricate flavours that wrapped themselves around each bite. There were, however, a few definite surprises. Like sake and dessert. My dinner at Miku wrapped up with a decadent but impossibly airy chocolate-mousse-like-thingamabob (Sorry, Chef, I didn’t get the actual name — though I doubt it was “thingamabob.” Blame the sake). The next day, I again found that sake and chocolate made for cozy bedfellows at the Kampai seminar mentioned earlier, where sake specialist Mariko Tajiri led us through a tasting featuring, well, “unexpected” foods. Besides chocolate (great with Tengumai Yamahai Junmai), we also successfully married sake with fruit, cheese, pretzel sticks with Dijon mustard, and summer sausage, among other things. I was starting to wonder what sake wouldn’t work with. (Actually, the one thing it didn’t work with was an incredibly spicy salami, which wouldn’t have really worked with anything.) “Sake is naturally a very versatile beverage and always seems to get along with food,” confirms Michael Tremblay, ki’s National Head Sake Sommelier and Canada’s first and only certified Advanced Sake Professional. “One of the reasons sake can work with even some of the foods that wine has a problem with — like asparagus, soy, wasabi — is that its composition is quite different than wine. For instance, sake has about a fourth of the acidity you would find in a glass of white wine. In addition, sake has a complex array of amino acids, including glutamic acid, which is one of the key ingredients in umami. Lastly, with the exception of a few over-the-top styles, the aromas in sake tend to be subtle and not intrusive when matching food.” Sake also doesn’t have any tannin — a blessing or a curse, depending on your predilections. Sake also has a distinct advantage over wine when it comes to serving temperature. Tremblay elaborates: “I have had the pleasure of pairing food and sake for a multitude of sake dinners at ki. One of the most important tricks up my sleeve is the idea of serving temperature. Unlike almost
every other alcoholic beverage on the planet, sake can be served at 55˚C or 5˚C. That’s a huge range. And what is most interesting is how different a sake’s profile will be if you serve it at several temperatures. Generally, when you warm a sake, you amp up its acidity, sweetness and umami, making it work well with dishes like pork belly, beef and game, or fatty fish.” At the ki dinner, Tremblay put his money/sake where our mouths were, so to speak, pairing the same Wakatake Onikoroshi Tokubetsu Junmai Genshu chilled with seared scallops, and warmed with sake-braised pork belly. The effect was almost startling; it was like pairing the dishes with two distinctly different drinks. And both matches were terrific. Try heating up that Sauvignon Blanc you were enjoying with the fresh oyster appy, then sip it with the rare steak main. Yeah, good luck. Speaking of steak, you might figure a restaurant called Beast would be the last place you’d expect to find sake. But Chef Scott Vivian is a recent convert. “I’ve always been fond of sake,” he admits. “But I never had the opportunity to taste different styles side by side. I knew that I wanted to create a small and somewhat accessible sake menu at the restaurant to complement the many Asian-inspired components that are on the menu at Beast. After sitting down and tasting through a gamut of bottles, I got a much better understanding of how versatile and complementary to all kinds of food sake can be. After putting together the list at Beast, I took the time to sit down and try some sake pairings with our dishes. I was pleasantly surprised that they went very well with the majority of the menu and realized that you could easily drink sake throughout the entire meal. “The good part is that it is available in a few different sizes — 180 ml cans and bottles, 300 ml bottles and 720 ml bottles. This allows our patrons a variety to choose from. Something to start the dinner off, something to sip on during the first round of dishes and definitely something to enjoy throughout the entire meal.” So, if your first memory of sake is somewhat like your first memory of rosé (likely not so special), I suggest you reconsider. I predict the sake revolution will escalate here in Canada — we typically get these things ahead of the curve. ×
BOUQUET GARNI BY NANCY JOHNSON
NAMASTE
I’ve been practising yoga for 14 years, on and off, but mostly on. Unlike any other exercise I’ve ever endured, I actually look forward to yoga. I think of it as a stretching and strengthening exercise for my body, mind and soul. In other words, it’s good for me. Yoga has taught me to be patient. To be in the moment. To live my life as mindfully as possible.
ANGEL HAIR PASTA WITH THREE-TOMATO SAUCE
I love yoga, although I’ll admit I’m not a thing of beauty when folding my body into a weird little pretzel shape. Truth be told, I do tend to stretch out my Lululemon pants right along with my soul. But the thing is, I believe this basic tenet of yoga: wherever I am, is where I am. Eyes down, heart focused, deep nourishing breaths. I’ve never expected an award for best pigeon pose. I’ve only expected inner peace. Even though pigeon pose is one of my finest poses — and I should get an award for it. At the beginning of each practice, I set my intention. Sometimes I decide to send all my strength to a loved one. Or sometimes I decide to send all my love to a sometimes violent and unsteady world. And then sometimes I just decide to fix the rumbly in my tumbly, since I never eat before yoga. That’s when I set the intention to make one of these delicious dishes when I get home. Namaste, my friends. Namaste.
SERVES 4 Simple and easy is the key after yoga. This time of year and all through the winter, cherry tomatoes are about the only tomatoes that taste like real tomatoes. But that’s just my opinion. Canned San Marzano tomatoes are sweet and meaty, and well worth the slightly higher price tag. Toss this sauce with sautéed shrimp, scallops, crab meat or chicken for a heartier version.
1 lb angel hair pasta 1/2 cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, chopped and oil reserved 3 cloves garlic, minced 1/4 tsp red pepper flakes 1 can whole San Marzano tomatoes 1 lb cherry tomatoes, halved Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste Fresh oregano leaves, for garnish 1. Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the pasta water. Return pasta to pot. 2. In a large saucepan, heat 2 tbsp sun-dried tomato oil over medium heat. Add garlic and red pepper flakes. Cook about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes with juice. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until thickened, about 20 minutes. 3. Break up tomatoes with a spoon or chop right in the saucepan with kitchen shears. Add cherry tomatoes, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until tomatoes are softened. 4. Pour sauce over pasta. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with oregano. MATCH: Love this with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.
× Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on quench.me/recipes/
OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 49
TURKEY CLUBS WITH SRIRACHA MAYO
SERVES 4 This time of year, you might have some leftover turkey. This is a great way to enjoy the leftovers. You can also use chipotle adobe sauce or chili powder instead of the Sriracha. If you prefer no heat, mix mayo with a spoonful of ketchup and a spoonful of sweet pickle relish. I like my sandwich bread toasted, but you don’t have to toast it if you don’t want to.
1/2 8 225 4 4 4
cup mayonnaise Dash Sriracha sauce, to taste slices multigrain bread, toasted g roast turkey, thinly sliced slices cooked bacon slices sharp cheddar cheese romaine lettuce leaves
In a small bowl, stir together mayo and Sriracha sauce. Spread on 4 slices of toasted bread and pile on turkey, bacon, cheese and lettuce. Top with remaining bread to make 4 sandwiches. MATCH: Beaujolais actually works well with Sriracha sauce.
STEAMED CLAMS
SERVES 4 TO 6, DEPENDING ON APPETITES October is all about clams. It took me a while to figure out that clams don’t have to be served at elaborate clambakes with all the fixings, like chowder, chicken, corn, sweet potatoes, coleslaw and chocolate cream pie, although that would be good too. Clams are just fine simply steamed and served with butter all on their own. Since clams are the only thing I really go to clambakes for, steaming alone does seem to make sense. Add freshly baked crusty bread to soak up the butter and juices. In a large pot, soak 6 to 8 pounds steamer clams in several changes of water until there is no sand at the bottom of the pot. Place the clams in 1 cup liquid, such as chicken broth, beer or white wine. Cover pot, turn heat to high and cook clams until they open, about 8 minutes. Discard any that don’t open. Strain broth through cheesecloth or coffee filter to remove any residual sand. Serve clams in shallow bowls with broth. Offer melted butter, tartar or cocktail sauce. MATCH: Serve with Chenin Blanc.
50 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
BEEF FILETS WITH TARRAGON DIJON SAUCE
SERVES 4 The word “Namaste” means “The divine in me honours the divine in you.” I like that thought; it’s a pure and honest belief in every human, a trust in each person’s goodness, an acknowledgement of the higher purpose of each soul. This dish is so delicious, your guests will definitely say “Thank you!” And, if you’re lucky, maybe even “Namaste.”
4 1 1/2 2 1 2
filet mignons Salt and pepper, taste tbsp olive oil cup dry white wine tbsp Dijon mustard tbsp butter tbsp fresh tarragon, chopped
1. In a large skillet, sauté filets in olive oil over medium-high heat. Season with salt and pepper. Cook about 5 to 7 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer to dinner plates. 2. Add wine to skillet; whisk in mustard. Simmer until slightly thickened, 1 to 2 minutes. Whisk in butter. Pour sauce over each steak. Garnish with tarragon. MATCH: Serve with Pinot Noir. ×
NOTED 93 TAWSE CHARDONNAY ICEWINE 2013, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($34.95/200 ML)
An oak-aged Chardonnay Icewine is a rarity in Ontario. Straw-coloured with a spicy, honey and peach bouquet, the wine is richly extracted with sweet honey and nectarine flavours carried on lively acidity. A joy to drink. (TA)
91 K1 CHARDONNAY 2012, ADELAIDE HILLS, AUSTRALIA ($27)
93 CAKEBREAD CELLARS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, NAPA, UNITED STATES ($115)
Clear, medium-deep yellow. Aromas include ripe apple, orange marmalade, pineapple, some vanilla and spice from oak fermentation, and a hint of pine sap. A rich, ripe, oaky Chard with buttery baked-apple and caramel flavours on the long finish. A food wine, good with a rich, gooey fettucine Alfredo. Drink up. (RL)*
90 SANTA IRENE BONARDA ORGANIC 2015, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA ($17)
From Mendoza, this wonderful organic Bonarda shows plump, juicy and pure fruits of cherry, cassis and blackberry with spicy undertones. It’s soft and plush on the palate with very ripe currants, blackberries, earth and mocha with a long finish. (RV)
91 TOWNSHIP 7 RIESLING 2015, OKANAGAN ($24.97)
From Fool’s Gold Estate, north of Oliver. Lifted orchard and stone-fruit notes on the nose precede a luscious, juicy palate of lemon lime with some stony notes and a streak of minerality wrapped in bright acidity, with alcohol kept in check at 11.5%. (TP)
Dense purple in colour with a cedary nose of blackcurrants and plums heightened by well-integrated oak; full-bodied, dry and fleshy but elegant thanks to its fine balance of fruit, oak, acidity and alcohol. Drinking well now but will last a decade. (TA)
91 BLUE MOUNTAIN PINOT NOIR 2015, OKANAGAN FALLS ($29.90)
Pretty garnet in the glass with upfront cherry and vanilla before a sleek palate of cherry and earthy savoury notes with a touch of spice, wrapped in fine tannins with the perfect balance of oak and fruit. Drink now, but better still, put some away for a few years. (TP)
90 RÉVA SAUVIGNON LANGHE 2015, PIEDMONT, ITALY ($26.95)
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris, which exudes grapefruit, passion fruit, nectarine, white peach, white flowers and herbs. Bright on the palate with fine length and a mineral-tinged finale. (ES)
× Find a collection of tasting notes for wine, beer and spirits at quench.me/thenotes/
90 VINCENT DELAPORTE SANCERRE CHAVIGNOL 2014, LOIRE, FRANCE ($28.15)
Very pale. Typical nose of citrus, a light floral note and a mineral undertone. Clean and fresh, the fine acidity holds the mid-palate together, leading to a sharp finish. Drink or hold a few years. (GBQc)
92 RIVETTO DAL 1902 BAROLO RISERVA LEON 2010, PIEDMONT, ITALY ($90)
Tobacco, balsamic, potpourri, dark cherry, blackberry, anise and minerals are layered on a firm yet lovely palate. Superb aftertaste and great longevity — 25 years. (ES)
OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 51
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Our scores are based on the wine's quality as well as price point. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Carefully study the commentaries to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Sarah Parniak, Treve Ring, Tim Pawsey, Silvana Lau and Jonathan Smithe. QUENCH USES THE 100-POINT SCALE 95-100 = Exceptional 90-94 = Excellent 85-89 = Very good
SPARKLING 96 DOM PÉRIGNON BRUT VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE 2007, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($297.95) When I win the lottery, this is the wine I will celebrate with — and drink daily afterwards. Yellow straw in colour, it offers a lovely vanilla, citrus and apple nose enhanced with apple-blossom perfume. It fairly dances on the palate with its light and elegant lemony-green apple flavour — a flavour that lingers unconscionably long. (TA)
91 TANTALUS BLANC DE NOIR NV, EAST KELOWNA, BC ($27.74)
This inaugural release comes from a single block of old vines planted in 1985 by the pioneering Den Dulik. A fine stream of bubbles with apple and some brioche notes on the nose, before a palate of red fruits and citrus hints with grippy, earthy undertones and a lengthy close. (TP)
91 QUARTZ REEF MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE NV, CENTRAL OTAGO, NEW ZEALAND ($30)
Light golden in hue, this biodynamic Pinot Noir/Chardonnay from Bendigo, Central Otago spent 24 months on the lees, and it is integrated beautifully. That savoury lees is joined by red apple, delicate florals and cherry, all grounded by a subtle brioche nuttiness and lifted by crisp mineral and pink-grapefruit vibran52 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
80-84 = Good 75-79 = Acceptable 70 & under = Below average *Available through wine clubs
cy. Fresh and complete, with a lingering pithiness on the very lengthy finish. (TR)
apple-fruit core. A plastic note lingers on the shorter finish. Drink now. (TR)
91 SPERLING VINEYARDS SPARKLING BRUT 2010, OKANAGAN, BC ($49.95)
88 THIRTY BENCH SPARKLING RIESLING NV, BEAMSVILLE BENCH, ONTARIO ($35)
In recent days, Ann Sperling has turned her attention ever more to the “home” vineyard, which also happens to be the site of the pioneering Casorso family’s 1925 planting. This méthode classique blend of Pinot Noir (70%) and Chardonnay (30%) sports a fine mousse with vibrant cherry and earthy notes with an elegant, crisp and clean body. (TP)
91 LOUIS ROEDERER BRUT PREMIER CHAMPAGNE, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($69.95)
This is the kind of Champagne that you wouldn’t waste on launching a ship. Pale straw in colour, it has a gorgeous minerally, apple nose with yeasty-bready notes. Medium-bodied and crisply dry, it’s mouth-filling with lemon, apple and an engaging note of bitterness on the finish. (TA)
88 KIM CRAWFORD SMALL PARCELS FIZZ MÉTHODE TRADITIONELLE 2009, MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND ($28)
This 60/40 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay has spent 42 months on the lees before disgorging July 2013. Grapes were sourced from Marlborough’s Aware and Southern valleys. Ample toast and dough come across coarse on the palate, though there is a pleasant cherry, firm pear and red
Silver medal winner at this year’s Ontario Wine Awards. The base wine for this bubbly come from the 2013 vintage. Made in the traditional method, there is a pale straw colour with pinpoint bubbles. Petrol, mineral, citrus, apple and yeast are supported by brisk acidity. (ES)
87 OYSTER BAY SPARKLING CUVÉE BRUT NV, NEW ZEALAND ($23) Lemon blossoms, pear and sheering green apple open this Marlborough traditional method fizz. 100% Chardonnay, but not labeled Blanc de Blanc (in line with the Keep It Simple Stupid camp). Tight and lively, with dusty stone, lemon, a light sweet pear core and overt pithy white grapefruit throughout. Leaves a powdery citrus note on the finish. (TR)
87 SORELLE BRONCA PROSECCO SUPERIORE BRUT PARTICELLA 68 NV, DOC PROSECCO SPUMANTE, VENETO, ITALY ($30)
Refers to the official land registry plot number for the exact part of the hill in Colbertaldo where these grapes are grown, 250-320 m high. Glera is splashed with Bianchetta and Perera, here creating a near-dry fizz with light white flowers, lemon peel, tight pear and yellow apple. Some powdered stone texture and bitter pear skin closes out the light palate. (TR)
86 WOLF BLASS YELLOW LABEL SPARKLING BRUT NV, AUSTRALIA ($17.99)
Shows agreeable floral and yellow fruit with a splash of vanilla on the nose and more clearly focused lemon citrus and apple in the mouth backed by refreshing acidity and fine mousse. (SW)
WHITE ARGENTINA 87 GRAFFIGNA CENTENARIO PINOT GRIGIO RESERVE 2015, SAN JUAN ($12.50) This Pinot Grigio was sourced from vineyards in Pedernal and Tulum Valley in San Juan, and created in a tribute to the 100th anniversary of the winery, founded 1870. Bright, clean and cushioned with a veil of fine lees, this streams along the palate with meadow grass, green apple and grapefruit, to a shorter, warming, grapefruit-oil finish. Chill this lean-bodied white and enjoy with prawns. (TR)
86 ALAMOS CHARDONNAY 2014, MENDOZA ($13.50)
This Mendoza Chardonnay underwent partial malolactic fermentation before 4 to 6 months on the lees in French and American oak. Rich and full, with ample toasty wood and clove spice, topped by a layer of red apple and buttered pear, and a sheen of lemon on the top. A nice ribbon of lemon works hard to lift the weight, but this simple white finishes somewhat clumsy and lacking cohesion. Pour with seafood chowder or creamy pasta dishes for best results. (TR)
AUSTRALIA 88 FOUNDSTONE CHARDONNAY/ VIOGNIER 2014, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA ($14)
Clear medium-deep lemon-peel yellow. Fairly powerful nose of peaches and citrus, especially lemon. On the palate, it presents rich peach and orange flavours,
well-balanced with acidity. Crowd-pleasing party wine. At its best now. (RL)*
88 SHOTTESBROOKE ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, ADELAIDE HILLS ($18.33)
Clear, pale silvery-yellow. Medium-intensity nose of gooseberry, nettles and lime. Light-bodied with more gooseberry and lime, and also grapefruit nuances. Drink up. (RL)*
CANADA 92 BLUE MOUNTAIN PINOT BLANC 2015, OKANAGAN FALLS ($17.90)
More evidence that BC still does Pinot Blanc (which used to be the most widely planted white variety) very well. Winemaker Matt Mavety says “pushing the envelope a little” means delaying malolactic fermentation, which in turn emphasizes terroir and minerality. Impeccably balanced, with aromas of peach and tropical notes followed by a creamy palate with citrus undertones and clove notes. (TP)
92 HILLSIDE MUSCAT OTTONEL 2015, NARAMATA ($21.73)
White flower and perfume notes before a generous palate of peach and nectarine with formidable but balanced acidity and a lengthy finish; some spicy hints in the close. Made from the oldest vines on the estate, planted by the visionary Vera Klokocka in the early 1980s. Perfect with duck liver paté and gooseberry marmalade. History in a bottle. (TP)
ingau in style with a lovely mouthfeel; a floral note and touch of honeyed sweetness in mid-palate give this wine distinction while finishing dry on a lime note. (TA)
92 TINHORN CREEK OLDFIELD SERIES GOLDEN MILE BENCH CHARDONNAY 2014, OKANAGAN ($35)
A rich, golden hue and an elegant nose of poached pear, citrus, toasted vanilla and spice with a gorgeous subtle honeycomb accent. Perfectly dry on the palate, with ripe pear, apple, grilled pineapple and integrated vanilla/spice notes. A lot to love about this Chard that will show even better with a bit of time in the cellar. (RV)
91 ST HUBERTUS & OAK BAY ESTATE RIESLING 2014, OKANAGAN ($16.75)
From some of the oldest Riesling vines in the valley, upfront notes of citrus and petroleum followed by a juicy, balanced palate of lemon lime with a taut mineral undertone before a lingering, dry zesty close. (TP)
91 FEATHERSTONE BLACK SHEEP RIESLING 2015 ($17)
The nose shows a bright profile of lime, grapefruit, sherbet and apple in a fresh and vibrant style. It is light and refreshing on the palate with a playful tug of sweet, tart citrus and orchard fruit on the palate. Lovely balance and clean through the finish. (ES)
91 VINELAND ESTATES ELEVATION BO-TEEK VINEYARD PINOT GRIS 2015, NIAGARA ($20)
It has a spicy nose with poached pear, lime and lemon zip, and gorgeous minerality. It feels bright and fresh on the palate, with beautiful texture and the pear-citrus notes lifted by electric acidity. Wonderful Chard. (RV)
This is a skin-contact Gris with a complex nose of apple skin, marmalade, bruised apple, mature peach and a touch of spice. It shines on the palate with beautiful texture in a dry but ripe fruit style that is exactly as winemaker Brian Schmidt intended: savoury and complex with a refreshing finish. Let your geek flag fly! (RV)
92 THIRTY BENCH SMALL LOT RIESLING WOOD POST 2014, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($30)
91 SUMMERHILL VINEYARD BIODYNAMIC CHARDONNAY 2015, OKANAGAN ($29.90)
92 MALIVOIRE MOTTIAR VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2013, ONTARIO ($30)
Very pale in colour with a lime tint; minerally, green apple and citrus nose. Very Rhe-
From the winery’s original certified organic vineyard, 25% aged 2 months in OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 53
NOTED American oak to produce just the right balance of creamy texture and structure without detracting from fresh fruit flavours of orchard fuit, apple and pear with a hint of citrus. (TP)
91 40 KNOTS L’ORANGE SCHÖNBURGER 2015, COMOX ($30)
90 TOWNSHIP 7 VINEYARDS AND WINERY MUSCAT 2015, BC ($18)
Lovely, stylistic nose of ripe tropical fruits, citrus rind and spice. It’s dry on the palate with stone fruits in a fresh, lively, crisp style with spicy undertones on the finish. (RV)
This is essentially an “orange” wine. It shows an amber hue in the glass and has an interesting nose of beeswax and honey with marzipan, marmalade, citrus and bruised apple. It’s tangy and vibrant on the palate with notes of tart citrus, Meyer lemon and a complex, textured, somewhat tannic, highly acidic finish. Totally weird and wonderful wine. (RV)
90 THIRTY BENCH SMALL LOT RIESLING TRIANGLE VINEYARD 2014, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($30)
91 THIRTY BENCH SMALL LOT RIESLING TRIANGLE VINEYARD 2014, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($30)
90 MALIVOIRE MOIRA CHARDONNAY 2012, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($39.95)
Very pale in colour with a lime tint but much broader on the nose than the Wood Post — minerally, apple and citrus nose with a light petrol note. Light-bodied, off-dry, good tension between sugar and acidity, and great mouthfeel. (TA)
90 CEDARCREEK RIESLING 2014, OKANAGAN ($15.29)
Showing some pleasing development on the nose, with mineral and petrol notes followed by a juicy entry of citrus above a stony background on a generous, mouth-filling palate. (TP)
90 TINHORN CREEK GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2015, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($15.99) This first Golden Mile Bench labeled Gewürz is a bold salute to one of the early wines that put Tinhorn on the map. Rose petal and ginger hints on the nose before a lush palate of stone fruit and pear. A touch of tropical and citrus with exotic spices before a crisp, clean end. (TP)
90 TAWSE SKETCHES OF NIAGARA RIESLING 2014, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($17.95)
Pale straw in colour with a hint of lime; a nose of grapefruit and already developing petrol notes; medium-bodied, off-dry with honey, apple and lime flavours, and good length. And well priced. (TA) 54 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
Sweet apple, white peach, mineral, lime cordial, apricots, bergamot and citrus are all in play. There is excellent length, and even though there is some residual sugar, the steely acidity gives an impression of dryness. (ES)
A full-bodied, oaked style of Chardonnay with a creamy texture. Banana, spice, honey, sweet apple, cream and anise carry long into the sunset, where mineral notes chime in. Lobster in butter is what you want to serve with beauty. (ES)
89 ARROWLEAF CELLARS PINOT GRIS 2015, OKANAGAN ($15.40)
Aromas of orchard and stone fruit before a lively palate of bright apple and pear notes with some mineral hints wrapped in good acidity through a fresh, fruity close. (TP)
89 CAVE SPRING GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2013, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($17.95)
Occasionally Ontario makes a Gewürztraminer that measures up to the Gewürz they make in Alsace. Light straw in colour with that characteristic lychee and rose-petal nose — flavours that are replicated on the palate. It’s dry and elegant with good length. An ideal partner to lightly curried dishes or Thai food. (TA)
89 40 KNOTS ZIGGY SIEGERREBE 2015, COMOX ($20)
Named after the vineyard whippet, Ziggy, and not a certain Ziggy Stardust, as I first thought. This is an interesting and entirely delicious wine from one of Vancouver
Island’s shining stars. The nose shows a range of citrus, peach, apple and apricot. It’s light but fruity on the palate with a basket of perfectly dry apricot, grapefruit, peach fruits and zippy, refreshing lime zest on the finish. (RV)
89 THIRTY BENCH GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2015, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($30)
A textbook Gewürztraminer! An explosion of lychee, rose, honey, cardamom, sweet peach and vanilla. It is dry with a broad mouthfeel and a long honey/ spiced finale. Pair with Munster or other washed-rind cheeses. (ES)
88 KACABA UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2015, NIAGARA ($15) Crisp and clean with no oak to take away from the purity of the fruit. Ripe apple, pear, citrus, lilac and minerals. Dry and refreshing with great persistency. (ES)
88 KACABA RIESLING RESERVE 2015, NIAGARA ($18)
Citrus, bergamot, crushed rock, white flower and white peach lead into a palate that gives an impression of dryness. Fresh acidity provides lift, and there is great length. Chilled shellfish platter please! (ES)
CHILE 85 ICALMA CHARDONNAY 2014, WINE OF CHILE ($12.99)
Shows surprising leafy herbal scents together with floral and citrus notes, and refreshingly light citrus, green apple and a touch of stone fruit. Good value for money. (SW)
FRANCE 89 BESTHEIM CLASSIC GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2014, ALSACE ($18.95)
Golden straw colour with a spicy nose of lychee, sweet grapefruit and notes of rose water. The true varietal character you’d expect from Alsace: off-dry, lychee and melon flavours, lovely mouthfeel with great length. (TA)
89 DROUHIN-VAUDON CHABLIS 2014, BURGUNDY ($24.25)
Very pale. Aromatic nose with notes of white fruits, citrus, dry stone and seashells. Light body, sharp flavour of ripe citrus. Full mid-palate, barely fat with an intense finish of good length. Ready to drink, it calls for oysters. (GBQc)
89 WILLIAM FÈVRE CHAMPS ROYAUX CHABLIS 2014, BURGUNDY ($25)
Very pale. Classic Chablis nose of citrus, limestone. There is more fruit and less minerality on the palate than the nose suggests. Tender acidity throughout leading to a round and nicely fruity finish. Drink now. (GBQc)
88 DOMAINE DU TARIQUET CLASSIC 2014, CÔTES DE GASCOGNE, SOUTHWEST ($13)
Pale yellow. Minerally, light citrus and white currant plus a floral touch. Very light and refreshing, delicate fruity taste, sharp finish. It will go down easy on its own and with light dishes. (GBQc)
88 ROSELINE PRESTIGE 2015, IGP VIN DE PAYS DU VAR, LANGUEDOC ($16)
Very pale salmon-pink. Light strawberry and dried herb notes plus a hint of fresh cream. Very light body, fresh fruity taste, good balance and an impression of volume in the mid-palate. Drink now. (GBQc)
88 JULES WINE CÔTES DE PROVENCE 2015, AOP CÔTES DE PROVENCE ($28)
Sun-ripened strawberries, pear and stones rule this medium-bodied, dryish rosé from Côtes de Provence. Cinsault, Tibouren, Grenache in a 70/15/15 blend come across with a lovely fruity silkiness, carried by a wave of glycerol and finishing with a quenching juiciness. (TR)
87 PERRIN LA VIEILLE FERME 2015, LUBERON AC ($13.99)
Attractive floral, clean citrus and tropical fruit on the nose with citrus, yellow pear and tropical fruits playing through on the palate. Finishes with a touch of gravelly mineral and crisp, refreshing acidity. Solid, ever-reliable value. (SW)
87 F LURTON FUMÉES BLANCHES 2014, IGP CÔTES DE GASCOGNE, SOUTHWEST ($15.35)
Pale yellow. Citrus and grassy notes on the fresh and sharp nose. Refreshing with its light body and grapefruit-juice taste. Good persistence. Drink now. (GBQc)
86 CAZAL-VIEL VIOGNIER 2014, IGP PAYS D’OC, LANGUEDOC ($18)
Pale yellow. Delicate aromas of tropical fruits, quince, pineapple, pear. Thick texture, moderate acidity and some bitterness give an unsophisticated edge to the mid-palate and finish. Drink now with white meat or fish in creamy sauce. (GBQc)
GERMANY 91 WEINGUT ST URBANS-HOF NIK WEIS WILTINGER ALTE REBEN 2014, SAAR ($30)
Though Schlangengraben means “snakepit” in German, there are no snakes around this vineyard, though there are lots of little lizards that love the hot, red-slate soils. Also loving the slate soils here: Riesling vines, up to 110 years old (Alte Reben means old vines). Concentration with restraint, with ample stone, light honeysuckle, herbed Bosc pear and fragrant Mediterranean lemon filling the honed frame. The slippery palate pulses with a precision that is highly alluring — fortunate because with only 10.5% alcohol, this smashable Riesling goes quickly. Wild ferment, a subtle, herbal minerality draws throughout this quietly confident wine. (TR)
90 DOMDECHANT WERNER HOCHHEIMER RIESLING KABINETT 2012, RHEINGAU ($21.95) For my palate, one of the best all-yearround white wines is a German Riesling of Kabinett quality because it’s low in alcohol and its vibrant acidity makes it very refreshing. This Riesling is straw-coloured with a hint of lime; it has a spicy-minerally nose of honey and citrus fruits with a light petrol note. On the palate, it’s off-dry with a honeyed grapefruit flavour and is beautifully balanced. (TA)
89 ST URBANS-HOF OLD VINES RIESLING 2014, MOSEL ($21.95)
White gold in colour with a minerally, lime and white peach nose lifted with a light floral note. Light-bodied and off-dry with honey and green-apple flavours. Great with a subtle rabbit dish with steamed vegetables. (TA)
GREECE 88 BOUTARI MOSCHOFILERO, MANTINIA ($12.95)
Boutari has it done it again, delivering a bang-for-the-buck Moschiofilero for the masses. A perfume of banana, lemon, white peach, honey, melon, jasmine and hints of ginger leads to a light yet lengthy palate full of refreshing acidity. At 11% alcohol it will go down easy all by itself, or even better with sushi. (ES)
87 THALIA WHITE 2015, CRETE ($9.95)
Smoky mineral, herbs, grapefruit, lemon, white peach, green apple and white flowers are all present in the delicate blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Vilana. Refreshing with great length and a structure that makes for a perfect pairing with shellfish or mild cheeses. (ES)
ITALY 90 LA BIANCARA DI ANGIOLINO MAULE MASIERI 2013, IGT VENETO ($40/1.5L)
There is so much I love about this wine, the least of which is that it’s so smashable that it is only produced in magnum. Of course, there’s the wild ferment, natural farming, volcanic soils, no added sulphites and no filtration to also love. But most importantly, the taste: fresh hay, green apple skin, light almond, subtle wildflowers and fine bitter lemon zest humming along on the finish. A fine slick of earthy lees oils the bottom of the palate, while herbal lemon oil laced acidity brightens the whole to a lightly grippy finish. To summarize: easily smashable. In a highly shareable size — and affordable price. (TR) OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 55
NOTED 90 SCHIOPETTO COLLIO FRIULANO 2014, FRIULI ($45)
Delicate aromas of white flowers, peach and herbs, with full flavours of yellow orchard fruit, citrus, mineral and a touch of blanched almond on the finish, with a grippy texture, full body and long, clean finish. Great with shellfish or Prosciutto di San Daniele. (GB)
90 LES CRETES CHARDONNAY CUVÉE BOIS 2014, VALLE D’AOSTA ($50) Rich and full-bodied with aromas and flavours of baked apple, spice and vanilla, complex and layered with a creamy texture, firm with present, but integrated oak, mineral, bright acidity and a long finish. Structured enough for a veal chop, but fresh enough for salmon with a beurre blanc. (GB)
89 TERRE STREGATE SVELATO FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO 2014, CAMPANIA ($20)
Elegant and mouth-filling with slightly ripe tropical fruit showing pineapple, peach and citrus; medium to full body, mineral, with bright acidity and a refreshing finish. Great with halibut. (GB)
89 VILLA MATILDE TENUTE DI ALTA VILLA 2011, GRECO DI TUFO DOCG ($25.99)
Deep gold tone in the glass reveals bottle age, with rich, concentrate, honeyed orange and tangerine citrus aromatics. Stays with the rich developed citrus theme in the mouth balanced by good acidity and an agreeable touch of bitterness. A powerful, complex wine but time to drink up. (SW)
88 VIGNETI DI MONTAGNA PINOT GRIGIO 2013, TRENTINO DOC ($18) Grown in the cool foothills of the Dolomites, this is an elegant, aromatic wine offering fresh yellow and green fruit scents, yielding to lively green apple and pear flavours, with mineral and refreshingly crisp acidity in the mouth. (SW)
88 CANELLA PROSECCO CONEGLIANO VALDOBBIADENE SUPERIORE 2014, DOCG MILLESIMATO, VENETO ($22)
Lively and bright, with green apple, pear 56 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
and fresh spring flowers, this vintage Prosecco was blended from selected parcels thought to typify the 2014 vintage. Very well balanced, down to the almond and light stones on the perfumed pear finish. Off-dry. (TR)
87 LAGARIA PINOT GRIGIO 2014, IGT VENETO ($15)
From Veneto’s Lagarina Valley, this bright, lean Pinot Grigio brings pear, yellow apple and melon to a crisp, green, short finish. Fragrant flowers and almond play a secondary note, but this is all about the youthful and tight fruit with a twist of lees. Compact and crisp; chill and drink now with sushi or assorted shellfish. (TR)
87 ARNALDO CAPRAI ANIMA UMBRIA GRECHETTO 2014, UMBRIA IGT ($16.79)
Floral scent suggests acacia blossom with bright yellow fruit and crisp, though pleasantly ripe, apple and pear flavours; a touch of stony mineral, finishing very clean and dry. (SW)
86 CASTELLANI TOMAIOLO 2014, ORVIETO DOC CLASSICO ($12.99) Aromatic, lightly honeyed fruit suggests honeydew melon together with tropical fruit and a whiff of pineapple. Expansive flavours of melon, citrus and stone fruit shift to yellow pear with a touch of almond on the finish. (SW)
82 LACRYMA CHRISTI DEL VESUVIO 2014, DOC SORRENTINO VESUVIO ($16.33)
Clear pale copper. Faint nose of strawberries. Light-bodied; tastes of rhubarb and strawberry pie, with a surprisingly long finish. Patio wine for a hot summer day. Drink up. (RL)*
88 WARWICK PROFESSOR BLACK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014 ($14.83)
Pale silvery-yellow. Medium-intensity nose showing gooseberry, lime and green apple aromas. Medium-bodied. Rich and soft, but with sufficient acidity to frame grapefruit and gooseberry flavours. Short finish. Drink up. (RL)*
88 DE MEYE CHENIN BLANC 2014, STELLENBOSCH ($16.17)
Clear, medium-to-deep lemon-peel yellow with a slight greenish tinge. Light nose of citrus, flowers and honey. Medium-bodied with tart apple and stonefruit flavours and a slight bitterness on the long finish. Drink up. (RL)*
SPAIN 90 GORU EL BLANCO MOSCATEL/CHARDONNAY 2015, JUMILLA ($13.95)
From Jumilla, Spain’s hotbed of value, comes this singular blend of Muscat and Chardonnay. Dry; there is great texture and ripe fruit that inundates the senses. Orange blossom, banana, pineapple, honey, red and delicious apple and spice are all in play. It is long-lasting with just the right pinch of acidity. Fish tacos or Szechuan-inspired dishes are made for this wine. (ES)
UNITED STATES 90 CLOS DU BOIS CHARDONNAY 2014, CALIFORNIA ($18.99)
SOUTH AFRICA
Enticing fresh lemon butter with smoky and toasty aromas evolve to delicate lemon drops with zesty acidity, a lick of mineral and lingering apple/pear notes on the finish. Delicious and harmonious California-style Chardonnay delivering more than expected. (SW)
88 ZALSE BUSH VINE CHENIN BLANC 2015, WINE OF ORIGIN COASTAL REGION ($13.99)
88 CHATEAU ST JEAN CHARDONNAY 2014, SONOMA COUNTY ($18.95)
Combines yellow tropical fruit with zesty ripe citrus character, a light herbal note and a crisp, refreshingly lively finish. Fine value. (SW)
A wooded Chardonnay, soft and creamy with smoke, honey, fruit salad, pineapple, yellow apple, smoke and spice. There is a solid backbone of
acidity that alleviates any heaviness on the lengthy finale. Summer is not over yet. Bundle up and take this wine out on the patio. (ES)
85 ROBERT MONDAVI WOODBRIDGE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, CALIFORNIA ($14.99) Bright green herb and grapefruit scents yield to delicate citrus and green fruit with a touch of tropical fruit in the mouth. Balanced, medium weight with a clean, lightly mineral note on the finish. Steady reliable value. (SW)
ROSÉ 91 FEATHERSTONE CUVÉE JOY ROSÉ 2014, NIAGARA ($30)
Made with 100% Pinot Noir, the nose displays notes of cherry, cranberry, raspberry and violets. On the palate, look for pretty red fruits, a vigorous mousse and a balanced perkiness through the finish. (RV)
90 HARPER’S TRAIL ROSÉ 2015, KAMLOOPS, BC ($16.49)
Vibrant rose-pink in the glass with bright strawberry and rhubarb up front before a vibrant palate of juicy red fruit with citrus hints over distinct mineral undertones that rule through the dry close. (TP)
89 MALIVOIRE VIVANT ROSÉ 2015, BEAMSVILLE BENCH, ONTARIO ($21.95)
This Pinot Noir rosé was produced via a direct pressing, hence the orange/peach colour. Floral, cherry, earth and spice on the nose. Elegant and tart with a cherry-fruit finish. (ES)
88 MALIVOIRE LADYBUG ROSÉ 2015, NIAGARA ($15.95)
A blend of primarily Cab Franc with Gamay and Pinot Noir acting as backstop. 24 hours of skin contact has produced a vibrant pink colour. Herbal, violets, cassis, cherry, tobacco, herbal, spice and cocoa are all present. Charcuterie and smoked salmon come to mind. (ES)
RED ARGENTINA 89 TRAPICHE GRAN MEDALLA MALBEC 2012, MENDOZA ($25.99)
Refined dark fruit and fine spice on the nose shows developed vinosity. Redcurrant and dark berry-fruit flavours are seamlessly melded with fine spice and integrated oak, rounded out harmoniously with a light splash of dark chocolate. Polished, well-made wine. (SW)
88 LUIS SEGUNDO CORREAS VALLE LAS ACEQUIAS MALBEC OAK 2011, MENDOZA ($23)
Pipe tobacco, wild blackberry, leather lead this medium-bodied, concentrated Malbec. 10 months in French oak ups the structure, but the density of the fruit can handle it, leaving tannins plush and welcoming. Juicy black plum, vanilla-dried black raspberry and dark chocolate cherry close out the lingering, spicy finish. (TR)
87 PEÑAFLOR BEEFSTEAK CLUB THE MEATY MALBEC 2015, MENDOZA ($17.99)
Pleasantly perfumed red berry, redcurrant and spice on the nose lead the way for rounded red fruit flavours supported by supple tannins, brisk acidity and a light dollop of milk chocolate, finishing firm and dry. (SW)
AUSTRALIA 90 MITOLO GAM SHIRAZ 2012, MCLAREN VALE ($39.95)
Dense purple colour with a spicy, smoky, herbal, blackberry bouquet. Full-bodied, dry and fruity; richly extracted plummy black fruit flavours with a firm tannic finish. (TA)
89 PIRRAMIMMA STOCK’S HILL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, MCLAREN VALE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($24.99)
Ripe blackcurrant with a whiff of clove, cinnamon and an elusive floral scent, together with an overtone of cedary
wood, give way to generous blackberry and blackcurrant flavours wrapped in velvety tannins. Finishes with harmoniously integrated fruit, oak, spice and dark chocolate. Better with another 3 years cellaring. (SW)
86 19 CRIMES SHIRAZ/DURIF 2014, VICTORIA ($18.50)
This ripe, full and fleshy Victoria red is a spicy blend of Shiraz and Durif (Petite Sirah), full of mulled berries, spices, raspberry and blueberry jam. Happily riding the wave of sunbaked sugars, with ripe thick tannins, bittersweet cocoa and nutmeg spicing. A brisk, bitter espresso note cuts the finish off short and amplifies the heat; best mitigated with saucy braised beef ribs. (TR)
CANADA 93 MALIVOIRE COURTNEY GAMAY 2013, NIAGARA ($26)
Perhaps the best, most complex and interesting Gamay being made in Niagara. This is wow wine, even though Gamay purists will scoff at the fact that 20-30% of the fruit is aged in tight-grain French oak. But it works here beautifully. The expressive nose shows a range of plums, cassis and black cherry with toasted oak and spice notes. It’s juicy and spicy on the palate with hedonistic dark and red fruits and wood spice undertones. This is wow wine, and there is no reason you can’t cellar this for a bit. (RV)
92 CEDARCREEK MERITAGE 2013, OKANAGAN ($20.99)
Blend of Malbec (36%), Cab Sauv (35%), Merlot (2%) and Cab Franc (1%) yields toasty notes with dark berry and smoky hints of black fruit and cassis on the nose. Followed by spicy black pepper and leathery hints with juicy acidity on a structured palate wrapped in well-integrated tannins before a generous ending. Excellent value. (TP)
91 HILLSIDE OLD VINES GAMAY NOIR 2012, NARAMATA ($21.73)
From old vines planted in 1984, red fruit and savoury notes on top followed by OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 57
NOTED a vibrant, juicy palate with underlying freshness and acidity; bright raspberry and mulberry tones on the medium-bodied palate wrapped in gentle tannins before a juicy end. (TP)
91 OROFINO SYRAH WILD FERMENT 2015, SIMILKAMEEN ($29)
Intense aromas of black fruit over meaty and gamey hints before a palate of dark berries. Very fruit-driven and varietally correct, with definite stony notes wrapped in plush and approachable tannins, before a juicy middle and black peppery ending. Made in a custom concrete tank produced with local sand and gravel. (TP)
91 TINHORN CREEK OLDFIELD SERIES PINOT NOIR 2012, OKANAGAN ($32)
An attractive nose of savoury cherry, dried herbs, earth, bramble, anise and stylish oak spice notes. Plenty of red berries on the palate but also earthy/loam, herbs and elegant oak spices. This is serious Pinot that’s caressing on the palate and delivered on a bed of silky tannins. (RV)
91 SEVEN STONES MERITAGE 2010, SIMILKAMEEN ($35) This blend of 51% Merlot, 40% Cab Sauv, 6% Cab Franc and 3% Petit Verdot is just entering its prime, with an enticing aroma of raspberry, mocha and toasty notes. Followed by a plush and plummy palate wrapped in vanilla and spice before a lengthy end. (TP)
90 ARROWLEAF CELLARS PINOT NOIR 2015, OKANAGAN ($17.90)
Upfront red fruit and earthy notes before a light- to medium-bodied palate of vibrant cherry and raspberry with a touch of savoury and leather; nicely structured with fine tannins from well-managed French oak. (TP)
90 MALIVOIRE SMALL LOT GAMAY 2015, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($19.95) Malivoire continues to lead the Gamay revolution in Ontario. Pepper, raspberry, strawberry, earth, red flowers and cocoa. Excellent length and ready to drink or can be cellared for a couple of
58 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
years. Serve with burgers topped with blue cheese or spaghetti topped with an Italian sausage ragout. (ES)
firmly structured with an earthy plum flavour enhanced by well-integrated oak and well-managed tannins. (TA)
90 MOUNT BOUCHERIE SYRAH FAMILY RESERVE 2012, SIMILKAMEEN ($25)
89 HENRY OF PELHAM OLD VINES BACO NOIR, ONTARIO ($19.95)
Lifted aromas of black cherry and spice notes precede a generous, well-balanced, mouth-filling palate of dark plum and cassis over approachable tannins before a full and lingering finish. (TP)
90 HILLSIDE SYRAH 2013, NARAMATA ($26.08)
From the Baco-masters comes this full-bodied rendition made from 30-yearold vines. It is chock full of dark cherry, blackberry, cassis, barbecue spice and cocoa. Baco’s natural acidity streaks through the concentrated and lengthy palate. Grilled and braised meats will shine with this wine. (ES)
Winemaker Kathy Malone offers a potent reminder that the Okanagan’s first Syrahs came from Naramata Bench. This black-fruited and peppery drop is defined by blackberry and cassis notes in a well-balanced palate of carefully managed French oak before a lingering close. (TP)
89 TRIUS RED 2014, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($22.95)
90 MALIVOIRE STOUCK MERLOT, LINCOLN LAKESHORE ($40)
A characterful Pinot from BC. Tawny ruby in colour with a cedary nose of black raspberry and violets; medium-bodied, dry, with ripe plum flavours and good length. (TA)
A minor miracle for the vintage! Harvested at less than 1 ton per acre, a deep cherry colour with purple highlights leads into a bouquet of dark cherry, plum, oregano, hickory, dill, coconut and cured meats. Full in the mouth with ripe fruit and just a hint of herbaceousness. There is abundant tannin, but I would choose to drink over next 5 years. (ES)
90 POPLAR GROVE THE LEGACY 2011, OKANAGAN ($52)
The ruby-garnet tint is a sign of evolution. Dried fruits and a good deal of oak (vanilla, soft spices) on the nose. Rather firm on the palate, but there is a good deal of fruity extract to wrap the fine tannins. Finish is very firm. It will evolve further. (GBQc)
89 CREEKSIDE ESTATE LAURA’S RED 2012, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($19.95)
A blend of 6 varieties — 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc, 3% Syrah, 2% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot. Dense purple in colour with a spicy, cedary nose of black fruits; medium-bodied, dry, medium- to full-bodied,
Dense purple in colour with a nose of cedar and blackcurrant; medium-bodied, dry and elegant, beautifully balanced with a lengthy finish and soft tannins. (TA)
89 BURROWING OWL PINOT NOIR 2014, OKANAGAN ($40.95)
88 KACABA CABERNET/ SYRAH 2013, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($18.95)
This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah is dense purple in colour with a spicy cherry and plum nose lifted with herbal notes. It’s medium-bodied and dry with cherry and redcurrant flavours finishing firmly with supple, ripe tannins. (TA)
CHILE 90 CONCHA Y TORO MARQUES CASA CONCHA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, DO MAIPO ($24.99)
Opens on the nose with opulent, developed dark fruit together with subtle notes of cinnamon, clove and fine oak. Generously ripe dark fruit is sweet but not jammy, and comes wrapped in velvety smooth tannins with good overall structure and a satisfying, harmonious finish. (SW)
89 COUSIÑO-MACUL DON MATIAS RESERVA SYRAH 2014, MAIPO VALLEY ($14.95)
One of the best buys from Chile is this Syrah: a dense purple wine with a smoky, blackberry nose augment by vanilla oak. Full-bodied and dry, it offers richly extracted flavours of blackcurrants and blackberries shaped by sweet tannins. It’s an impressive wine for the price. (TA)
89 EMILIANA NOVAS GRAN RESERVA CARMÉNÈRE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, COLCHAGUA VALLEY ($16)
This organic offering shows a range of blackberries, cherries, currants and spice on the nose. It’s a substantive wine on the nose with a thick broth of plums, cassis and currants with spicy wood nuances through the finish. (RV)
89 CONCHA Y TORO MARQUES CASA CONCHA SYRAH 2014, DO BUIN ($24.99)
Aged 16 months in French oak, this one shows spicy white pepper and developed raspberry fruit on the nose with blackberry mixing with raspberry on the palate. Tannins are moderate, with well-modulated acidity, a touch of chocolate and lingering fruit on the dry, slightly tannic finish. (SW)
86 ICALMA MERLOT 2014, WINES OF CHILE ($12.99)
Yet another budget-priced Chilean wine showing good varietal character with dark plum, cherry, earthy herbal notes and food-friendly drying grip on the finish. (SW)
FRANCE 91 FAMILLE PERRIN LES SINARDS CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2012, RHÔNE ($36.95)
From the renowned Beaucastel estate, this wine is deep ruby in colour; the nose has that spicy blackberry aroma tinged with wild herbs. Medium- to full-bodied, it’s dry and savoury, beautifully balanced and elegant with great length. (TA)
90 C & C MARÉCHAL CHOREY-LÈSBEAUNE 2012, BURGUNDY ($41) Light ruby. Enticing nose of small red berries, a touch of spices and earth, developing into delicate red flower notes in the glass. Sophisticated oak to match. Medium-bodied at most; the fine structure, the acidity and the light tannins are in perfect harmony. Enjoyable now or keep 3 to 5 years. (GBQc)
89 CHÂTEAU GRAND MOULIN VIEILLES VIGNES 2012, MIDI ($15.95) A blend of 40% Syrah with 20% apiece of Carignan, Grenache and Mourvèdre. Dense purple in colour with an attractive nose of black fruits with smoky, herbal, animal notes; full-bodied, dry and savoury with a dark chocolate flavour tinged with dried herbs. Great value. (TA)
89 DOMAINE DES TERRISSES GRANDE TRADITION GAILLAC 2012, GAILLAC ($17.95)
The Gaillac region in southwest France produces some nifty red wines from grapes you may not have ever heard of. This wine is made from Duras, Broucal and a little Syrah. It’s deep purple-ruby in colour with an earthy black-fruit nose in which the small amount of Syrah sings through. Medium-bodied and dry, the smoky, savoury flavours make it the perfect red wine for barbecued meats. (TA)
89 CHÂTEAU LES HAUTS D’AGLAN 2010, CAHORS, SOUTHWEST ($19.30)
Dark ruby. Seductive notes of very ripe red berries. Full bodied; the rich fruity extract more than compensates for the firm tannins typical of this appellation. The finish is compact and overall, the wine is quite satisfying right now. (GBQc)
89 MAS DES BRESSADES LES VIGNES DE MON PÈRE 2012, MIDI ($21.95)
France’s Midi region is a crescent-shaped zone that stretches along the Mediterranean coast from the Spanish border to the mouth of the Rhône River. An ideal climate for growing
Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. This wine is dense purple in colour; savoury flavours of blackcurrant and blackberry with liquorice and dark chocolate fill the mouth to a finish of dusty tannins. (TA)
89 J DROUHIN SANTENAY 2012, BURGUNDY ($30)
Dark ruby. Inviting nose of red berries and flowers. Very supple on the palate, it charms with its elegant fruity taste and easy approach. Tannins are of great quality, very finely grained. Finish is firm. (GBQc)
88 CHÂTEAU DU PIN 2012, AOC BORDEAUX ($13.33)
Clear medium-deep garnet. Forward nose of cherry pie with a herbal background. Medium-bodied with slight strawberry-jam fruit, dusty tannins and a short finish. Drink now. (RL)*
88 CHÂTEAU JOUANIN 2012, AC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX ($15.67)
Clear medium-deep plum red. Medium-intensity nose of blueberries and raspberries robed in cedar. On the palate, it shows red berries and some herbaceousness, with tannins still prominent but in decent balance. Not from the best of vintages, but this will last another year or 2. (RL)*
88 MONTMIJA LA CHAPELLE ORGANIC CABERNET 2013, PAYS D’OC IGP ($16.99)
Made from Cabernet Franc, this is a characterful wine showing fleshy berry and plum flavours with herbal and savoury notes, somewhat astringent tannins and a splash of dark chocolate on the finish. Pair with Mediterranean-style spicy grilled meats or firm-ripened cheeses. (SW)
88 CHÂTEAU SAINTE-EULALIE PLAISIR D’EULALIE 2014, MINERVOIS, LANGUEDOC ($18)
Purplish. Inviting red and black berries on the nose, very little oak. Medium bodied; the very soft tannins are almost not perceptible. Finish is lifted by acidity for a lighter style from this appellation. Drink now. (GBQc) OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 59
NOTED 88 CHÂTEAU DE GOURGAZAUD RÉSERVE 2012, MINERVOIS LA LIVINIÈRE, LANGUEDOC ($20)
Full ruby. Intense red-fruits notes and soft spices from the oak. Fresh fruity taste, round mid-palate, soft tannins, approachable. Well done and ready to drink. (GBQc)
88 BRUMONT TOUR BOUSCASSÉ 2010, MADIRAN AC ($25.99)
Intensely flavoured, full-bodied wine showing black cherry, plum, dark chocolate with dense tannins and balanced acidity. Like most Madiran, it will benefit from more aging. Pair with cassoulet, game meats and aged cheeses. (SW)
88 CHÂTEAU BLAIGNAN 2010, CRU BOURGEOIS MÉDOC AC ($29.79) Leads off with piquant blackcurrant and green herbal scents, a whiff of clove, cinnamon and a trace of oak. Medium weight on the palate, showing blackberry, black cherry and blackcurrant flavours, supported by firm sooty tannins and rather youthful acidity. Well-structured, with some finesse, it needs 3 to 5 years to soften tannins and acidity. (SW)
87 COMTE JEAN BAPTISTE DE MONPEZAT LE GOULEYANT MALBEC 2014, AOP CAHORS, SUD-OUEST ($16)
Tobacco and light smoke filter through the juicy black plum and leather leading this Malbec, strengthened by sinewy tannins and plumped with ripe cherry and sweetly herbal raspberry fruit. The rusticity of the tannins sticks out on the finish, outlasting the fruit, and leaving an ashen note and a curl of heat. The Vigouroux family was a pioneering force in Cahors, making wine there since 1887, and re-establishing ancient vineyard sites after phylloxera wiped out the area. (TR)
87 CHÂTEAU DE MONTMIRAIL LE GRAMINIER 2012, AC GIGONDAS ($23)
Clear medium-deep garnet. Medium-intensity nose of candied plums. Raspberry and strawberry flavours are uncharacteristically thin on the palate. The tannins are still hard — this can be kept another year, but won’t improve much. (RL)* 60 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
86 CHÂTEAU GOURGAZAUD 2011, MINERVOIS AC ($14.99)
Fleshy dark fruit scents with redcurrant, a dry herbal aroma, a pinch of cinnamon and a trace of liquorice on the nose. Shifts to blackberry and blackcurrant flavours backed by dense tannins, black chocolate and a firm dry finish. (SW)
GREECE 88 KIR-YIANNI PARANGA 2013, MACEDONIA ($14.75)
This blend of 50% Xinomavro, 25% Syrah and 25% Merlot exudes black cherry, black liquorice, plum, rose, roasted herbs, tar and vanilla. It is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a lingering aftertaste. Ready to drink with a nice plate of pasta topped with braised sausage or veal in a tomato sauce. (ES)
87 BOUTARI AGIORGITIKO 2014, NEMEA ($12.95)
Huge florality gives way to black cherry, cassis, cocoa, earth and clove qualities. Light with an appealing, easy-drinking structure. Drink now and it won’t break the bank. (ES)
87 TSANTALI RAPSANI 2013, RAPSANI ($13.40)
From the southern slopes of Mount Olympus comes the blend of equal parts of Xinomavro, Krassato and Stavroto, in which 6 months in oak have produced a nose of black cherry jam, roses, sweet spice, vanilla, plum, tomato paste and black olive. Somewhat grippy on the palate (which bodes well for the red meat factor), there is lifted acidity and persistency. (ES)
ITALY 94 PIETRADOLCE VIGNA BARBAGALLI ETNA ROSSO 2012, SICILY ($100)
Elegant, fragrant and fresh with penetrating sour cherry, wild berries and wild currant aromas and flavours, great structure and focus with finesse and a stony minerality; freshly herbal and lengthy, crisp finish. The vineyard on the slopes
of Mt Etna, the tallest active volcano in Europe, and high altitude contribute to the vibrancy, intensity and minerality of the wine. Don’t let the lighter colour fool you, this wine has loads of finesse and character and is the perfect example to show that a wine doesn’t need to be dark and heavy to be great. 100% Nerello Mascalese from 80- to 100-year-old pre-phylloxera bush wines. (GB)
93 CASTIGLION DEL BOSCO TOSCANA ROSSO PRIMA PIETRA 2011, TUSCANY ($80)
Elegant, rich and layered, but still powerful, the wine combines layers and layers of plush, dark fruit, with lovely, polished tannins, a focused firm structure, a touch of mocha and spice; wonderfully integrated and balanced, and a long, long enveloping finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. One of the best wines I’ve tasted recently from the Tuscan coast. (GB)
93 RÉVA BAROLO RAVERA 2012, PIEDMONT ($89.95)
The discovery of this winery at this year’s Nebbiolo Prima was one of my highlights! Powerful; the cherry, plum, vanilla, spice, cocoa, tar and dried earth carry long into the sunset. With all the tannins, there is a 20-year life ahead. (ES)
93 SPERI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO MONTE SANT’URBANO 2011, VENETO ($85) So often, Amarone can be overwhelmingly rich, but this elegant version is fresh and floral with aromas and flavours of slightly dried cherries, raspberries, plum, spice and dried herbs, firm but silky tannins and a lifted finish. Shows the right amount of restraint while expressing its region and style, and maintaining a lovely drinkability. A selection of flavourful cheeses with walnuts, dried cherries and fig compote would match well. (GB)
93 CA’ DEL BOSCO FRANCIACORTA DOSAGE ZÉRO NOIR VINTAGE COLLECTION RISERVA 2006, LOMBARDY ($135) Bright, complex, rich and smoky with cherry and raspberry aromas and
flavours. Citrus and toasted brioche, persistent and elegant bubbles with wonderful structure and focused acidity. Amazing texture and balance, and a persistent finish that begs another taste. 100% Pinot Noir. (GB)
92 MONTI BAROLO MONFORTE D’ALBA 2012, PIEDMONT ($50)
Made in an ultra-modern style where new oak envelopes the sweet cherry, tar, cola, anise, humus and chestnut. Full-bodied, super ripe with a long finish; lots of flavour and enough stuffing to age 2 decades. Purists might scoff at this wine, but there is no denying the quality. (ES)
92 MONTI BAROLO RISERVA BUSSIA 2010, PIEDMONT ($65)
Full-bodied, this modern Barolo sees a healthy dash of new oak, coming out on the other side with a perfume of sweet cherry, vanilla, flowers, earth, tar and spice. Long on the finish with lots of polished tannins that bodes well for a great life ahead. (ES)
92 CASCINA DEL MONASTERO BAROLO RISERVA RIUND BRICCO ROCCA 2010, PIEDMONT ($95)
Opens up with a volley of cherry, spice, earth, dried rose and liquorice. The palate delivers sweet fruit with a long vanilla and berry-tinged finale. Deep, balanced and refined. Start to drink after 2020 as it is still youthful. (ES)
91 GEOGRAFICO CONTESSA DI RADDA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2012 ($21) Textbook Chianti Classico with its nose of earthy red berries, forest floor and lovely woodsy spices. It’s complex and rich on the palate with cherries, raspberries and currants that play well with the earthy/loamy/spice bits through the finish. It has structure and complexity with medium-plus tannins. (RV)
91 CHIARLI LAMBRUSCO GRASPAROSSA DI CASTELVETRO FRIZZANTE SECCO VILLA CIALDINI 2015, EMILIA-ROMAGNA ($26)
Dark and youthful with wild fruity aromas, big broad flavours of wild black cherry, blueberry, plum and dark raspberry with a slightly creamy texture;
firm tannins, bright acidity, savoury; finishing fruity, but dry. A well-made wine that doesn’t take itself too seriously. A great match for cured meats and barbecue pork. (GB)
91 ZANATO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2011, VENETO ($52.95)
They don’t come much bigger and more voluptuous than this! Dense purple-black in colour, the nose is both savoury and sweet with plum and prune fragrance heightened by a floral grace note. Rich and full on the palate, it offers spicy, cedary flavours of dried fruits with a note of pencil lead on the finish. 16.5% alcohol but carries it well. (TA)
91 RÉVA BAROLO 2012, PIEDMONT ($59.95)
This superb Barolo is fragrant, revealing a bouquet of rose, cherry, cocoa, plum, fried leaves, vanilla and clove. Great length, with lots of grippy tannins that will allow the wine to evolve over the next 15+ years. (ES)
91 MAURO VEGLIO BAROLO CASTELLETTO 2012, PIEDMONT ($65)
A well-balanced Barolo with high notes of plum, vanilla, cherry, rose and dried earth. Rich and concentrated with excellent length. (ES)
91 PIRA LUIGI BAROLO MARGHERIA 2012, PIEDMONT ($80)
From the commune of Serralunga d’Alba comes this full-bodied Nebbiolo with an intense nose of sweet cherry, flowers, plum, raspberry, vanilla and spice. Concentrated; there is great length and structure that will allow a long life. (ES)
91 MARCHESI ANTINORI TIGNANELLO 2013, TUSCANY ($102)
The great thing about Tignanello from vintage to vintage is the purity of the fruit. While not as robust as the 2011, this vintage is dense purple in colour, showing great extraction. The nose offers light cedar, vanilla, oak, blackcurrant and cherry aromas. A beautifully poised wine, elegant and harmonious with a firm structure. (TA)
90 GEOGRAFICO MONTEGIACHI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2012, TUSCANY ($23) A blend of 95% Sangiovese and the rest Colorino. An inviting nose of plums, maraschino cherry, bramble and toasted wood spice. It has a balanced attack on the palate with an amalgamation of fruit, spice, tannin, structure and wonderful finesse on the finish. (RV)
90 ANTINORI VILLA ANTINORI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2011, TUSCANY ($30)
Built to last, it is already approachable with its ripe, almost sweet red-fruits taste and obvious oak that will need time to integrate. Structure is quite firm, even a bit rough in the finish with a slight vegetal edge. Better wait at least 5 years. (GBQc)
90 TEDESCHI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2011, VENETO ($42.95)
Dense purple in colour with a fruit cake nose of currants, black fruits, raisins and wood spice. Full-bodied, sweet and raisiny with balancing acidity and a firm structure. (TA)
90 CASTELGIOCONDO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011, TUSCANY ($49.95)
Already showing its rich potential. Deep ruby in colour with some maturity at the rim; cedary, cherry bouquet lifted with vanilla oak; firmly structured, full-bodied, dry with great length and quite forward. One would expect nothing less from Frescobaldi. (TA)
90 PAOLO MANZONE BAROLO MERIAME 2012, PIEDMONT ($65)
This house continues to produce attractive wines at attractive prices. Cherry, plum, earth, spice and earth are all built on concentrated fame. Long aftertaste and lots of life ahead. (ES)
90 RENATO RATTI BAROLO CONCA 2012, PIEDMONT ( $75)
A textbook Barolo full of cherry, prune, flowers, earth, vanilla and spice. Splendid length and well suited to braised lamb shanks. (ES) OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 61
NOTED 90 BROVIA BAROLO ROCCHE DI CASTIGLIONE 2012 ($100)
Plum, cherry, earth, spice, vanilla, game, floral and tar. Nice weight and length. Drink this wine over the next decade. (ES)
90 TOMMASI CA’ FLORIAN AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO RISERVA 2008, VENETO ($100)
Rich and full-bodied with dried plum, cherry and fig, slightly bittersweet with a velvety texture, firm underlying structure and lots of concentrated dried fruit flavours on the lingering finish. Needs something rich and flavourful to match, like bison with a Saskatoon-berry reduction. (GB)
89 CONTE LEOPARDI VILLA MARINA 2010, ROSSO CONERO DOC ($18.99)
100% Montepulciano grapes harvested from estate vineyards, with complex, piquant scents of blackcurrant and redcurrant interwoven with clove, cinnamon and green herb. Shifts to black cherry, blackberry with secondary blackcurrant with thick tannins, brisk acidity and well-integrated fruit and spice in the mouth. Give it a bit more time to soften forward acid and rough tannins. (SW)
89 VARVAGLIONE VIGNE & VINI 12 E MEZZO 2014, PRIMITIVO DEL SALENTO IGP ($19.99)
Complex, perfumed ripe dark fruit, with a subtle overlay of sandalwood and cinnamon spiciness on the nose, introduces sweet ripe blackcurrant, blackberry, raspberry and milk chocolate flavours on the palate. Well structured and balanced, it finishes with attractively integrated spice and tannic grip. (SW)
89 GEOGRAFICO FERRAIOLO TOSCANA IGT 2012 ($20)
This Super Tuscan blend is 70% Sangiovese and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose reveals cherries, currants, plums, earth, spice and subtle note of blood orange. The tannins are soft with a rich broth of dark fruits and spice that caress the palate through the finish. (RV) 62 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
PORTUGAL 92 ESTOPA RESERVA 2009, DOC DOURO ($18.83)
Clear but opaquely deep plum-red. Strong, smoky nose of stewed plums and black liquorice. A tooth-stainer that will put hair on your chest with powerful, oaky plum and cherry flavours, and sturdy tannins. Best with a dry-aged grass-fed New York striploin steak done medium-rare. Good for another couple of years. (RL)*
92 VALE DE FORNOS 2012, VINHO REGIONAL TEJO ($15.17)
Clear medium-deep garnet. Forward nose of raspberries and blackberries with some stemmy aromas from the Castelão grapes. Stewed red berry fruit is rich, but a bit upstaged by high tannins and high acidity. At its best now. (RL)*
SOUTH AFRICA 89 VAN LOVEREN FAMILY VINEYARDS BLUE VELVET PINOT NOIR 2013, WINE OF ORIGIN WESTERN CAPE ($15.99)
Reveals good Pinot varietal character with appealing scents of strawberry and red cherry together with a dry herbal note and a dusting of cinnamon. Cherry flavours are more assertive on the palate, with a splash of chocolate, moderate tannins and velvety texture. Cherry and strawberry flavours linger on the finish. (SW)
87 NEDERBURG CABERNET SAUVIGNON WINEMASTER’S RESERVE 2013, WO WESTERN CAPE ($11.50)
Dark and wild blackcurrant, black cherry and tobacco are framed with finely structured tannins in this medium-bodied, smoothed red. Light smoke and black pepper carry through the finish. Ideal now with some age under its belt. Great value. (TR)
87 ANTHONJI RUPERT PROTEA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, WO WESTERN CAPE ($15)
Cabernet Sauvignon from the Groenekloof ward in the Darling area goes into this smooth, supple, medium-bodied red.
1 year in a mix of French oak (various sizes and ages) and stainless steel has provided thin, slightly sticky tannins while preserving freshness. The silken palate carries branch, leather, fresh cherry and black raspberry to a finely rasped peppercorn, bitter-espresso finish. (TR)
86 ROODEBERG RED 2014, WO WESTERN CAPE ($10.50)
Sweet raspberry jam, cherry and cinnamon bark pervade this simple, medium-bodied red. A smooth blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz and Ruby Cabernet, this carries enough freshness to keep the super ripe fruit from cloying. Finishes with a black pepper kick. (TR)
SPAIN 92 TORRES MAS LA PLANA 2010, PENEDÈS ($59)
Dark ruby. Intense notes of ripe red and black berries, subtle oak and overall nicely fresh. Supple in its attack, the refined fruity taste largely dominates the oak at this stage. Full bodied, well balanced, ripe and elegant mid-palate. Intense finish of great length, tight without any graininess. Simply beautiful and a great value that will last 20 years. (GBQc)
90 EL COTO CRIANZA 2012, RIOJA DOC ($18.80)
An outstanding value, this fine Rioja shows the impact of aging in new oak barrels, with spicy, warmly ripe perfumed berry-fruit and subtle notes of vanilla oak on the nose. Generously ripe berry fruit in the mouth, led by bright raspberry, with deftly balanced acidity, lightly firm tannins, and a splash of mocha; culminates with fine fruit and deftly integrated oak on the long finish. (SW)
90 TORRES GRAN CORONAS CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVA 2012, PENEDÈS ($18.95)
Remarkable value here. Deep ruby-purple in colour with a spicy nose of sandalwood, cedar and red berries; medium-bodied, dry and firmly structured with coffee bean and chocolate notes on the finish. (TA)
90 GARCIA CARRION ANTAÑO 2009, RIOJA RESERVA DOC ($20)
Intriguingly complex nose encompasses developed dark fruit, sandalwood, cinnamon and cigar-box scent. Rounded dark berry and fine spice flavours are enveloped in velvety tannins with brisk acidity and a splash of dark chocolate. Although quite developed, this wine will integrate more harmoniously over the next 3+ years. (SW)
87 BOGARVE LACRUZ TEMPRANILLO 2014, DO LA MANCHA ($16)
This fruity, youthful Tempranillo from La Mancha carries bright raspberry and plum, spiced with medicinal black-cherry notes. The 2 months in barrel is overly evident — strident wood grain rules the mouthfeel, though tannins are sanded pretty smooth. Simple, but authentically La Mancha; solid choice for barbecue ribs or chops. (TR)
UNITED STATES 92 STAG’S LEAP CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, NAPA ($49.25)
Like all Napa Cabs, this is a dense purple in colour with a cedary, blueberry and blackcurrant nose accented with vanilla oak. Full-bodied, dry and elegant, this wine is gorgeously harmonious and firmly structured. A wine built to last. (TA)
90 ROBERT MONDAVI CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, NAPA VALLEY ($35.95)
Dense purple in colour with a nose of cassis and crushed stones, cedar and savoury-herbal notes; full-bodied, dry and elegant blackcurrant and red liquorice flavours — firmly structured with good length. (TA)
90 RAYMOND RESERVE SELECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, CALIFORNIA ($39.95)
Dense purple-ruby in colour with an intense bouquet of cedar and blackcurrants; full-bodied, dry and firmly structured, it offers firmly structured flavours of plums and blackcurrants with evident tannins. Hold 3 to 5 years. (TA)
88 WENTE VINEYARDS RIVA RANCH SINGLE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2013, ARROYO SECO, MONTEREY COUNTY, CALIFORNIA ($28) From the gravel-loam soils of Riva Ranch vineyard in Arroyo Seco, Monterey, this Pinot Noir is made of parcels dating back to 1963. Plush and silken on the palate, with waves of subtle smoke, soft black raspberry, cherry and wild raspberries riding fine, slightly powdery tannis. Quite harmonious and round until a hot and cocoa-dusted finish, this would be best with a fire-grilled pork chop. (TR)
87 ROBERT MONDAVI WOODBRIDGE ZINFANDEL 2013, CALIFORNIA ($14.99)
Zesty wild berry, peppery spice and green herb carry through on the palate with lively wild berry (brambleberry) flavours together with peppery and herbal notes and a light splash of chocolate. Easy to like and a good match for charcuterie, grills and pizza. (SW)
DESSERT 91 DONNAFUGATA PASSITO DI PANTELLERIA BEN RYÉ 2013, SICILY, ITALY ($48/375 ML)
Rich and mouth-coating with bright aromas and flavours of candied citrus, fig, dried apricot, orange marmalade and spice; ample acidity to balance the residual sugar and a lingering finish. 100% Zibibbo (Moscato d’Alessandria). Try with a ricotta torta with bits of dark chocolate and a hint of orange zest. (GB)
90 CHÂTEAU IMPERIAL TOKAJI 3 PUTTONYOS TOKAJI ASZÚ 2004, TOKAJ-HEGYALJA, HUNGARY ($25)
Golden colour; honeyed peach bouquet with an earthy note; full-bodied, sweet and spicy flavours of honeyed apricot and orange peel with a long lingering finish. (TA)
86 YALUMBA CHRISTOBEL’S MOSCATO 2015, AUSTRALIA ($15)
A bowl of fragrant fruit salad in a blooming garden of flowers sums up this new Moscato from Yalumba. Crystal-
line lime and a bead of spritz livens up baked pear, tangerine, lemongrass and ripe gooseberry fruit, all wrapped up in a sweet, zippy body and with 8.5% alcohol. A lime sherbet note lingers on the finish. Oz meets Asti, great for light fruit desserts. (TR)
BEER PEI BREWING COMPANY GAHAN 1772 INDIA PALE ALE STRONG BEER, PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND ($3.99/500 ML) This unpasteurized all-natural brew shows distinctive clean herbal hoppy scents and fruity malt flavours, rapidly evolving to bitter hoppy dryness on the back palate. Classic IPA style. (SW)
AUTHENTIC SEA COAST BREWING COMPANY RARE BIRD RED ALE, NOVA SCOTIA ($3.88/500 ML)
Made from Canadian rye as well as the customary malted barley, this red/ amber coloured ale opens with rich malty and fruity aromas with a whiff of spice. Rounded, lightly sweet dried fruit and malt flavours come with medium weight on the palate, gentle effervescence and an agreeable light bitterness on the finish. (SW)
TATAMAGOUCHE BREWING CO NORTH SHORE LAGERED ALE, NOVA SCOTIA ($16.95/473 ML)
Initially top-fermented (like an ale) then cold-aged lager-style, this shows a slightly hazy appearance. Pleasant malty and fresh citrus aromas play out on the palate, with citrus fruitiness and generous malty flavours, finishing with a good hit of refreshing hoppy bitterness. (SW)
HURBANOVA BREWERY GOLDEN PHEASANT ORIGINAL SLOVAK LAGER, SLOVAKIA ($5.49/500 ML) Light amber in colour, showing nutty malt and herbal hoppy aromas, with nicely balanced, full-flavoured fruity malt and refreshing hoppy bitterness in the mouth. Easy to drink; satisfying medium-weight brew. (SW)
OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 63
DAVINE BY GURVINDER BHATIA
THE “MIAMI BEACH” OF NORTHERN EUROPE LOCATED IN NORTHEASTERN FRANCE, bordering Germany, the region
of Alsace is often misunderstood and underappreciated. Perhaps it is because the region has, throughout history, been tugged back and forth between the two countries, exhibiting influences from both. According to many producers, in the 16th century when Alsace was part of Germany, it was the “Miami Beach” for northern Europe and the ripe, fresh, rich wines were very popular. Thereafter, when Louis XIV of France acquired Alsace, it — again, according to many producers — “killed” the wine industry because being from the northern part of the Roman Empire, the wines were thought of as too acidic relative to the fruitier, fatter wines of southern Europe. In more recent history, the Germans occupied Alsace during WWII, before the region was liberated (some in the region may disagree with this characterization) in 1945. When traveling in the region today, it is easy to forget that you are in France versus Germany. Alsace is hilly with warm summers, cool winters and one of the driest regions in France (although this year has been excessively rainy). During the growing season, hot days and cooler nights result in grapes with high acidity and wines that are naturally fresh and vibrant. The diversity of soils — sandstone, limestone, granite, clay, volcanic — influences the character of the wine, in particular the aroma, texture and structure. 90 percent of the wines produced in Alsace are white and traditionally the wines tended to be fermented dry, but some producers have adopted a lighter, sweeter style akin to some German wines, which can cause confusion for consumers. When the residual sweetness is balanced with bright acidity, the wines are rich but still fresh. In the absence of ample acidity, the wines become sweet and flabby. Producers, in my opinion, need to be true to the region as opposed 64 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
SÉVERINE AND THOMAS SCHLUMBERGER WITH ALAIN BEYDON-SCHLUMBERGER
to dumbing down the wines. Creating unnecessarily simplistic wines in an attempt to appeal to a mass market results in homogenization and the eradication of any sense of the place and ability to differentiate the wines from the sea of generic juice inundating retail shelves and restaurant wine lists. For me, the top wines in the region are the flinty, bone-dry, sometimes austere Rieslings; rich, textural and structured Pinot Gris; and perfumed, round and excellent-value Pinot Blanc. There are also outstanding wines produced with Gewürztraminer, Muscat and Sylvaner. The region also produces youthful and refreshing sparkling wines, Cremant d’Alsace, using the methode traditionelle. Perhaps the greatest asset of the wines of Alsace is their versatility with food. The bright acidity, minerality, texture, freshness and richness of the wines makes them extremely food-friendly and allow the richly textured and structured whites to pair well even with red meat. Many in the industry tout Alsatian
Gewürztraminer as an ideal match with Indian and Thai curries. I do not share this view as I find the intensity and spiciness of the wine to be in conflict with the flavours of most curries. I would suggest that a Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris (or a Riesling with a touch of residual sweetness) from the region would be a better match in this situation. But much of the beauty and appeal of wine and food is the discovery. Here are several suggestions to aid in rediscovering the wines of Alsace.
WOLFBERGER CRÉMANT D’ALSACE BRUT VIEILLES VIGNES ($30) Just ripe apple and citrus aromas and flavours with pleasant creamy texture, good complexity and length, soft acidity and lingering finish. A blend of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Auxerrois and Riesling.
ZIND-HUMBRECHT RIESLING VOLCANIQUE 2014 ($44) Smoky, oily, peach and citrus, mineral and stony, textural and rich.
OLIVIER HUMBRECHT
ZIND-HUMBRECHT RIESLING CALCAIRE 2014 ($60)
the wine fresh, bright and drinkable without being overwhelming.
Intense, deliberate and penetrating, with ripe peach, citrus and apple; rich and fresh with mineral, herbs and spice.
ROLLY GASSMANN RIESLING DE RORSCHWIHR SGN 2010 ($400)
ZIND-HUMBRECHT PINOT GRIS CLOS WINDSBUHL 2014 ($65) Rich fruit and honey on the nose. Mineral, bracing acidity, richness and amazing structure on the palate. Reminds you of how amazing and complex Pinot Gris can be.
ZIND-HUMBRECHT GEWÜRZTRAMINER GRAND CRU ‘HENGST’ VENDANGE TARDIVE 2011 ($150) Intense, decadent and rubenesque late harvest with spice, mineral, lychee and tropical fruit, bright focused acidity to balance the residual sweetness, long, lingering finish.
OSTERTAG SYLVANER LES VIEILLES VIGNES 2014 ($35) Pretty floral and slightly fruity nose with good concentration, citrus, stone fruit, mineral; penetrating, flinty with good acidity on the fresh finish. A great example of quality Sylvaner from the region.
ROLLY GASSMANN AUXERROIS ROTLEIBEL DE RORSCHWIHR 2003 ($300) Intense, penetrating, viscous, mouth-filling, nectarine and apricot with 83 g/l of residual sugar, but enough acidity to keep
Concentrated, rich and penetrating; honey, citrus, apricot, nectarine and plum, smoky and minerally, with an amazing texture, bracing acidity and incredibly long, mouth-watering finish.
SCHLUMBERGER PINOT GRIS LES PRINCE ABBÉS 2014 ($25) Vibrant with pear, peach, mineral, rich texture, great balance and focus, finishing with ample acidity and great length.
PAUL ZINCK RIESLING GRAND CRU EICHBERG 2014 ($50) Broad and flinty with yellow orchard fruit, focused and minerally; spice with great balance and juicy acidity.
LÉON BEYER RIESLING R DE BEYER 2009 ($58) Earthy, mineral and pure with stone-fruit aromas and flavours, nervous acidity; elegant and rich with great length and salinity.
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LÉON BEYER PINOT GRIS COMTES D’EGUISHEIM 2008 ($58)
your wine deserves the very best home
Golden yellow with pear, peach, apricot and a touch nutty, rich and powerful; almost tannic, with spice, mineral and vibrant acidity and a long, dry, savoury finish. Would love this with a veal chop. ×
416.285.6604 RosehillWineCellars.com OCTOBER 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 65
AFTER TASTE BY TONY ASPLER
TIPPING THE SCALE BLAME ROBERT PARKER. He started it. The Wine Spectator jumped on the bandwagon and then virtually every other wine magazine in North America followed suit, including Quench. Under pressure from its readers, Britain’s august Decanter Magazine (founded in 1975), having resisted for many years, reluctantly adopted the concept. I’m talking about the 100-point system tasters use to evaluate wines. You’ll find it too in authoritative wine newsletters, like Michael Vaughan’s “Vintage Assessments,” which first appeared in 1990. Initially using a star-only system, Vaughan now rates all the wines in the LCBO’s Vintages’ biweekly releases, averaging around 120 products, using both stars and scores out of 100 points. I confess that I too became a centurion for my website, changing over from a five-star system (which was really marking out of 10 since I used half-stars as well). The problem with assigning numbers to wine, whether it be a 20-point system or 100 points, is that it is not scientific. Tasters are human; they may accord a wine 89 points in the morning and when presented with the same wine blind in the evening they may score it one point lower or higher — at best. The 100-point system is really a misnomer. In practice it’s nominally a 20-point scale because very few writers have given a wine less than 80. For the Ontario Wine Awards competition, which I have run for 22 years, I instruct the judges to score the wines they are about to blind-taste between 80 and 100. To gain a bronze medal, a wine must achieve 86-87 points; a silver medal, 88-89 points and a gold 90+ points. If a panel of, say, four judges was allowed to use the entire scale of 1-100, the disparity of numbers would skew the results when the scores were averaged. (To ensure that one judge is not out of kilter with his or her colleagues in the numbers department, the panels discuss the flight when everyone has finished tasting; if one member differs egregiously from the others, the wine is re-tasted by all.) Another problem with the 100-point scale is the propensity for some wine writers to use it for self-promotion, elevating their scores to ensure that their name will appear on neck labels and wine lists — a practice colluded in by liquor boards who know that publishing high scores will guarantee sales. And then there is the phenomenon of the 100-point wine (Parker again). Receiving such an Olympian score makes the wine an instant icon resulting in a stratospheric price. 100 out of 100 66 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2016
in my book is perfection: there has never been a perfect wine, not even when it was changed from water to wine in Galilee. In short, numbers are shorthand and mean nothing without a vivid description of the wine. The problem with any system that evaluates wine by numbers is that the wine itself may taste different to even seasoned tasters depending on the day. Rudolph Steiner, the Austrian philosopher, propounded the theory of biodynamic farming in the early 1920s based on the position of the moon in the heavens. This inspired the notion that wine will taste better on certain days. The following concept evolved: Earth days: when the moon is in Earth signs (Capricorn, Taurus, Virgo), this is not the best time to enjoy wine. Flower days: when the moon is in Air signs (Gemini, Libra, Aquarius), your aromatic wines such as Gewürztraminer or Viognier will taste terrific. Leaf days: when the moon is in Water signs (Cancer, Scorpio, Pisces), it’s not a good time to taste wine. Fruit days: when the moon is in Fire signs (Aries, Leo, Sagittarius), that’s the best time to taste wine. But then again, any day is a good day if you’re tasting wine. (Now how do you rate this column? ... 86 points. Shame on you. Go back and re-read it.) × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM
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