Quench November 2017

KANPAI! WWW.QUENCH.ME NOVEMBER 2017 PM40063855 $7.95

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ARMAGNAC DE MONTAL VSOP “This is delightfully delicate as far as Armagnac goes. From an excellent producer that’s been around since the 17th century, it’s juicy and redolent of sweet stone fruit, apple, orange peel and brown sugar, with penetrating warmth underscored by baking spices and brown butter.”

ARMAGNAC IN FOLDER

Beppi Crosariol The Globe and Mail

MEET THE FAMILY

Pictured above 1987, XO, Hors d’Age, 1997 and VS. Also available Blanche d’Armagnac and older vintages starting from 1893. Good taste runs in the family.

Armagnac de Montal

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QUENCH MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2017 A BEST SELLER × 18 VERY FEW PEOPLE REALIZE THAT SOJU IS ONE OF THE BEST-SELLING SPIRITS IN THE WORLD. BY JORDAN ST. JOHN GANBEI! × 20 PUSHING CHINA’S BAIJIU FORWARD. BY TOD STEWART NEVER EMPTY × 23 THE CONCEPTS OF COURTESY AND HOSPITALITY INFUSE JAPANESE CULTURE AND THE WAY YOU SHOULD SERVE SAKE. BY LISA HOEKSTRA

25 42

BŌSHITSU × 25 ONLY THE JAPANESE WOULD CREATE A WORD FOR THE “ACCIDENTAL DISAPPEARANCE OF FINISHED SAKE.” BY TOD STEWART KANPAI! × 30 USING ASIAN FLAVOUR FOR YOUR NEXT COCKTAIL PARTY. MAKING THE SCENE × 34 A MICROBREWERY EXPLOSION IS TAKING OVER THE EAST ASIAN BEER SCENE. BY CRAIG PINHEY FLIGHTS OF FANCY × 36 COOL CLIMATE CHARDONNAY IS TAKING THE STAGE. BY MICHAEL PINKUS MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017 × 39 EVERY YEAR, THE EDITORS OF QUENCH CHOOSE THE BEST ASSEMBLAGES, SINGLE VARIETAL AND OTHER DRINKS FROM AROUND THE WORLD. FOOD CITY: ST JOHN’S, NEWFOUNDLAND × 42 AN ISLAND FOR ALL FOODIES OUT THERE. BY LISA HOEKSTRA

DEPARTMENTS ALL AROUND THE WORLD × 48 EATING MY WAY THROUGH MY ANCESTRY. BY NANCY JOHNSON NOTED × 50 EXPERTLY-TASTED BUYING GUIDE OF WINES, BEERS AND SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.

IN SEARCH OF THE NEXT BIG THING × 64 WINERIES AROUND NORTHERN BRITISH COLUMBIA ARE LITERALLY BREAKING NEW GROUND. BY GURVINDER BHATIA MATCH UP × 66 NEW KIDS ON THE BC BLOCK CHALLENGE THE ESTABLISHMENT. BY TONY ASPLER NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 3

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VERY RARELY IN MY CULINARY WORKINGS DO I GET TO SEE SOMETHING TOTALLY AND UTTERLY NEW. MAYBE THERE IS A TWIST ON A CLASSIC. AN INTERPRETATION ON A THEME. It’s not too

often that I am surprised. And that is how I got my sake obsession. I had maybe tasted a hot sake served in a strip mall sushi joint. It was

4 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

I have travelled to many wine regions in BC (where I live, just north of the Okanagan), Washington, Oregon, Bordeaux, and probably a few others. I love drinking wine, especially good reds, so I regularly scrutinise your “Noted” wines, and have done so for many years. With respect, your ratings may seem logical to you but they are not really helpful. There are, I think, two flaws in your point system, which make the ratings opaque, not transparent. First, the spread is too narrow. The reds in the September 2017 issue range from 93 to a low of 85, so all were excellent or very good according to your ratings. And second, there is no way to sort out price as a component of the wine. Is it worth it to pay $183 for a bottle of 93 point 2012 Toscana, or would I be better off getting 5 bottles of 93 point Skaha Bench? Robert McDiarmid, Kamloops, BC CORRECTION Pulses (like the ones mentioned on page 14 of the October 2017 issue) are the dry, edible seed of a pod plant, which includes dry field peas, dry beans, lentils, chickpeas and Fava beans. Mustard, sunflower, canary seed and buckwheat are not pulses. The image on page 23 of the October 2017 issue was actually for Michael Hunter’s Ricotta Cavatelli with Venison Ragu recipe on page 27.

never the shelf I went to see at the liquor store — not like they had a worthwhile selection back then. About 10 years ago, my palate was enthralled by a Junmai Ginjo sake I happened upon while travelling. I was hooked. The simplicity of flavours. Its ability to match well with some of my favourite dishes. This one sake drew me into a new world of exotic notes. It’s what I was waiting for. These days you can walk into most liquor stores and find an impressive list of sake, soju and now baijiu. Some stores even have specialized multi-shelf sections. How far we have come from three bottles in obscure store locations. So, for us who love to explore, this is our time. For those of you just starting to dip your toes in the maelstrom of new liquids, my advice is to just dive in. Your world will never be the same again.

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CONTRIBUTORS Tara Luxmore is a Prud’homme Beer Sommelier, and freelance writer for publications like Toronto Life and Food & Drink. Together with her real-life sis Crystal, Tara runs the Beer Sisters; they lead corporate and private tastings, speak at festivals across North America, and consult with brands. Follow the sisters on Instagram and Facebook @beersisters, and at www.beersisters.com.

Food editor Nancy Johnson logged 30 years in the music industry before segueing into writing about food, wine and life. She never turns down a glass of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Or any other wine for that matter.

Jordan St. John is an author, educator and blogger on the subject of beer. Based out of Toronto, he frequently travels in order to explore what beverages the world has to offer.

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NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 7

Q SCHOOL

MAKING THE DOUGH

Dough making is the safest and easiest place for your amateur chef to start their career. They expend their energy mixing flour with water, beating eggs, and kneading dough that will eventually become delicious baked goods. Make sure they get time to enjoy using the messier implements like the wire whisk, blender, and the rolling pin. After all, making a mess is the first step to learning to clean it up.

OVEN SAFETY AND OPERATION

For little ones, the range can be one of the most intimidating kitchen appliances. It is often taller than they are and gives off an enormous amount of heat that they can feel right against their little faces. It is imperative that you teach them that they shouldn’t operate it without an adult present. When you are present, however, let them work the knobs, and instruct them about what parts they should not touch.

BOILING WATER

4 fundamental skills kids can learn in the kitchen The children are the future, so people say, and the future is coming faster than you think. You know those little chefs want to help parents out in the kitchen. Learning to cook is not only a fun activity to share but also a fundamental skill that leads to health and happiness later in life. When you are ready to teach a lesson to your little chef-in-training, here are four fundamental skills kids should learn early on. 8 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

Boiling water is one of the most important skills to learn early on. Emphasis should be on not using too much or too little heat and keeping pan handles from sticking out over the edge of the stove top. Whether it leads to them preparing soups, pasta or sauces, this first step will take them far in the kitchen. If using the stove top, you should give them a chair or other elevated surface to step on to keep everything at eye level and within their reach.

MEAT AND VEGETABLE PREP

It might be somewhat nerve-wracking at first to put knives in little hands, but learning to safely carve meat and slice vegetables is instrumental in helping kids gain confidence in their kitchen skills. The prep counter is probably the first place little ones will ask to help out because it looks like the most fun. Take the time to safely instruct them in how to safely hold and use a knife as well as washing their hands before and after handling meat. If you are nervous at first, take it slow and only let them cut when your hands are over theirs. These four skills are just the start of a journey with your junior chef. As they get confident with the basics, you can begin to teach them some of the more advanced tricks of the trade. ×

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GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON

SLOWLY BUT SURELY

SLOW COOKER BARBECUED PULLED PORK SERVES 8

1 1 2 3 1 1/2 1 1/2 1/4 1 1 1 1

Pulled pork is always welcome at a casual gathering, especially on a cold winter’s hockey night in Canada. Look for a whole bone-in pork shoulder with – yes – lots of fat. If your store doesn’t carry a whole pork shoulder, go with a pork butt roast. For best results, cook pork the day before serving.

× Search through our huge library of recipes on quench.me/recipes/

tsp olive oil pork shoulder roast (6 lb) onions, roughly chopped cloves garlic, crushed and chopped cups bottled barbecue sauce cup low-salt chicken broth cup apple cider vinegar cup brown sugar tbsp chili powder tbsp honey mustard tbsp Worcestershire sauce tsp dried thyme Salt and pepper, to taste Buttered, oven-toasted sandwich buns

1. Pour the olive oil in the bottom of a slow cooker. Place the pork, onions and garlic into slow cooker. 2. In a medium bowl, stir together barbecue sauce, chicken broth, vinegar, brown sugar, chili powder, mustard, Worcestershire sauce and thyme. Pour over roast. Cover and cook on high for 7 hours. Remove pork from slow cooker and transfer to large covered bowl or container. Pour sauce into separate bowl or container. Store both in refrigerator overnight. 3. Three hours before serving, remove hardened fat from sauce. Transfer pork and sauce to slow cooker. Cook on high 2 to 3 hours or until heated through. You may also reheat pork in 350˚F oven for about 1 1/2 hours. 4. Shred pork with two forks, salt and pepper to taste, and serve on toasted sandwich buns. Pass additional barbecue sauce at table. Great with potato salad, coleslaw and baked beans. MATCH: Beer is always a good choice with pulled pork, but you may also want to uncork a rosé or two. × NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 11

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LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO

Revive your corpse

THE JURY’S STILL OUT WHEN IT COMES TO CLAIMS THAT TURMERIC CAN CURE EVERYTHING FROM ARTHRITIS TO DEPRESSION. It may

not qualify as a “superfood,” but I still think it’s a super food. Its power lies in its ability to infuse everything it touches with a bright, gingery flavour, which, we’re starting to realize, can be used in things other than curry. Turmeric is finally finding its way into everything from salad dressings to lattés, desserts to smoothies. With the news that, a turmeric liqueur — Von Humboldt’s Cordial — was recently released in the United States, it’s clear the next frontier for this spice is none other than cocktails. Simon Ogden, bar manager at Veneto Tapa Lounge in Victoria’s Hotel Rialto, was ahead of the game a few years back, having made a turmeric-infused rum that was featured in Victoria Walsh and Scott McCallum’s A Field Guide to Canadian Cocktails. As it happened, when Quench called him recently for spice advice, he was just introducing a new turmeric drink, the Corpse Pose Reviver, at Veneto. The timing was perfect. “I’ve actually used it very little, probably more than anything because it’s such a problematic ingredient to work with in cocktails,” says Ogden. “Don’t get me wrong, I love it. If I were on a desert island and could only have one style of regional cuisine, it would be Indian.”

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Ogden’s favourite cookbook, in fact, is Vij’s Indian, which he uses regularly and, since turmeric is on his home kitchen’s spice-rack-speed-rail, he said it was only natural that he would try to find a way to make it work in cocktails. Still, even for Ogden, who has considerable experience with both Indian spices and a huge range of cocktail ingredients, it was a challenge. “As soon as you try working with it in cocktails, you realize it’s the Incredible Hulk,” he says. “It’s overbearing and suddenly your lovely bar is stained yellow everywhere, as well as your hands. Which makes sense, of course, since it was used in dye for clothing long before it was used in cuisine.” So, to keep the hulk from smashing everything in sight, Ogden advises “quick and delicate” infusions, cautioning that even he was surprised at how quickly the turmeric-fenugreek-fennel combo imparted flavour to his “Ayurveda bitters.” When he added the turmeric, he used a tea bag, since straining out powdered spices is “remarkably annoying,” requiring the use of several coffee filters or cheesecloths. The alternative, fresh turmeric, is another option but, he points out, you have to be even more quick and delicate with the potent fresh spice.

CORPSE POSE REVIVER

1 1/2 oz Sipsmith gin 1 oz fino sherry 1/2 oz Odd Society’s Mia Amata Amaro* 5 solid dashes Ayurveda bitters** In a mixing glass with ice, stir all ingredients together until chilled. Strain into coupe. Finish with one light spray of cinnaspritz.***

* Odd Society’s Mia Amata Amaro will be

hard to find outside of British Columbia. Ogden advises using Amaro Montenegro or Ramazzotti in its place if you can’t find it. Still, he highly advises going out of your way to track it down since, he says, Mia Amata’s chocolatey-orange rhubarb amaro will knock your socks off.

** To make Ayurveda bitters, add one tbsp each of fenugreek seeds, fennel seeds, a pinch of gentian root and ground turmeric (in a teabag) to 5 oz Canadian whisky. Let infuse for 3 days and strain. Add an ounce of honey and bottle.

*** To make cinnaspritz, soak cinnamon

sticks in vodka overnight and decant into an atomizer. × NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 13

MUST TRY BY GILLES BOIS

HIERARCHY

LAST APRIL, DOZENS OF WINE JOURNALISTS GATHERED IN THE SMALL TOWN OF PÉZENAS, LANGUEDOC FOR THE ANNUAL “TERROIRS ET MILLÉSIMES” EVENT. But

why Pézenas? Located halfway between Béziers and Montpellier, it is said to be the next village to be granted the much sought-after AOC status, top of the French wine hierarchy. There are few other reasons why you may want to go there: maybe to pay tribute to Molière, the great playwright who started his career there or to visit the many antique shops that abound in the city. The vineyard is small at 200 hectares located just north of the town; it includes a variety of soils where Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre thrive among old vines of Cinsault and Carignan. The wines are red only, with about three dozen producers — only a few are familiar to us, Prieuré St-Jean de Bébian or Paul Mas. That could change with an upgraded appellation.

PRIEURÉ ST-JEAN DE BÉBIAN 2013 ($39) Dark ruby. Deep nose of red and black berries; a vegetal note adds freshness to the moderate oak. Open flavours, full bodied. It feels very fresh on the palate. Finish is tight and slightly astringent; it needs time.

PAUL MAS CÔTÉ MAS PÉZENAS 2015 ($17)

DOMAINE LA GRANGE ICONE 2010/2011/2015 ($53) Enticing nose on the 2011: blackberry and black fruits, smoke. Rich and full bodied. Tight, powdery tannins. The 2010 was even firmer yet velvety with intense thyme and garrigue aromas. In 2015, the oak brings liquorice to the nose. Tannins are tight and well wrapped. Very satisfying; hold 4 to 5 years.

DOMAINE DE LA FONT DES ORMES 2014 ($30) Blackberries and soft spices from the well-dosed oak. Roundness is noticeable on the palate in spite of slightly peaking acidity. Finish is clean and compact.

LES TROIS PUECHS CUVÉE EXCELLENCE 2014 ($38) A strong aroma of thyme fills the glass, complemented by red fruit notes. Oak is not overly present in spite of 12 month aging in new barriques. Beautiful in the mouth, perfectly balanced, very fruity taste. Nourishing.

Surprisingly complex nose of red berries, kirsch and garrigue; discreet oak notes. Soft attack due to lower acidity, it seems a little bit loose on the palate, not tight or firm, but there is a nice ripe fruit flavour. Drink soon.

DOMAINE MAGELLAN PÉZENAS 2014 ($18)

DOMAINE LACROIX-VANEL FINE AMOR 2014 ($18)

MAS GABRIEL CLOS DES LIÈVRES 2014 ($24)

The nose has finesse, little or no oak and a seductive floral touch. Half-bodied with supple texture but a tight core and clean fruit.

Inviting nose of red fruits and well-dosed oak. Supple with soft tannins, half- to full-bodied. Finish is firm, compact.

DOMAINE LE CONTE DES FLORIS VILLAFRANCHIEN 2014 ($26)

DOMAINE PECH ROME CLEMENS 2014 ($21)

Light ruby. An elegant wine, easy to drink, supple and half-bodied with subdued tannins and oak on red fruit flavours. 14 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

Light ruby. Light and delicate nose of red fruits, empyreumatic notes. Not more than half-bodied but flavourful, elegant and round mid-palate. Only the finish is on the firm side. Delicious.

Light ruby. Pleasant nose, red berries, only a touch of oak if any. Easy-to-like taste of sweet red fruits, supple and well balanced. The 2015 was very similar. Ready to drink. ×

ALL AROUND THE WORLD BY BUCK TITUS

These savoury vegetables are the stars Lamb, goat and beef are quite wellknown among aficionados of Moroccan food, but those who abstain from meat have a lot to like about the cuisine too. Vegetables play a starring role in many Moroccan dishes, and for good reason. Moroccan cuisine uses so many different types of vegetables that it’s impossible to form an exhaustive list. Here are just a few:

LENTILS: This legume is an ever-present component of Moroccan tagines and soups, often flavoured with delectable local vinegars. EGGPLANT: A popular candidate for grilling. Along with tomato, it’s a key ingredient in zaalouk, one of Morocco’s distinctive salads.

TOMATO: Technically a fruit from the New World, soon after it

was discovered, this plant was incorporated into many salads and soups in the typical Moroccan fashion.

MALLOW LEAVES: Mallow, also known as khoubiza or bakoula, is often sautéed to create a delicious bread dip seasoned with plenty of olive oil and preserved lemon. CHICKPEA: This hearty bean can bulk up a main course all on its own. It’s also common to see chickpea flour used for dishes such as kalinti.

FAVA BEAN: This is another bean with many uses throughout Moroccan cuisine. Try bessara, an alternative to hummus featuring pureed fava bean, garlic and olive oil.

Where can you find vegetables for Moroccan cooking? Some elements of Moroccan cooking are easier to find than others. Vegetables such as cucumbers, artichokes, and sweet potato are used in many different recipes and can be found in a standard grocery store. But what about ingredients like mallow leaves or preserved lemon, or the hard-to-find dried Mediterranean chickpea, in contrast to the larger and more common Mexican garbanzo bean? It might take some searching, but with care, you’ll be rewarded with a fine selection of Moroccan delicacies. Try specialty grocers billing themselves as “Middle-Eastern,” “Mediterranean” or “North African.” Don’t be afraid to ask at the counter for what you’re in search of. You can even contact your local Moroccan restaurant; many will run a Moroccan grocery right next door. Whether you cook it at home or enjoy it served to you, Moroccan cuisine is one of the friendliest in the world for vegetable-lovers. × NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 15

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BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL

ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM

What’s the most popular wine-producing country in the world? Talk about your loaded question. No matter what country I say is the most popular, there will no doubt be oodles of you with a differing opinion — especially if you have a vested interest (like being born there) in the wine from a particular piece of geography. To come to a conclusion that just might stand up to the wrath of the internet trolls, let’s look at three key industry factors: Who makes the most, sells the most and drinks the most. According to 2016 stats, when it comes to cranking out fermented grape juice, Italy is king of the hill — but not by much. Having topped the charts consistently for much of the 21st century, runner-up France trails its Italian counterpart by a very slim margin. Some crappy vintages have twisted a corkscrew through the heart of many of France’s major regions and, with production on the downswing, allowed Italy to pick its way to a near photo finish. Ongoing “Acts of God” in the vineyards across Europe will no doubt make the race for the top spot too close to call when the 2017 rankings are revealed. France gets an edge over Italy when it comes to the value of its exports. Arguably the French make some pretty pricey wines, which, for some of you, will make this comparison more of a footnote than a ticked box for the crown of most popular. When it comes to consumption, the Americans drink more than anyone else. Of course, when compared to other western countries, there’s a lot more of them to reach for a glass than say, no. 2 France and no. 3 Italy. Even so, the French are only a few points behind the leader, which is impressive when you again consider their headcount. So with all that taken into consideration, I’m awarding this popularity contest to France. Let the angry emails fly.

What’s with all this hoopla around “natural” wines lately? Is it warranted?

When it comes to hoopla, natural wines are currently knee-deep in it. Before you get all hot and bothered about all that unnatural wine you’ve been drinking, the bare-bones definition of a

× Ask your questions at bonvivant@quench.me

“natural” wine is one that has had nothing (or at the least next to nothing) added or subtracted during its creation. Avoiding the use of chemicals, supplements and even modern production methods, the wines hit the bottle as Mother Nature intended. Now no one ever accused Ms Nature of being a winemaker, so while the growing list of hipsters getting into wine appear to appreciate their beverage of choice in its naked form, there are just as many aficionados who find wine in the raw to be both visually (some can look as murky as a neglected fish tank) and stylistically unsettling. While many natural-wine producers follow an organic or biodynamic production path, they are different in the fact that they just let things happen inside the winery rather than support their output with even modest intervention as is typical of organic or biodynamic producers. Drinking like an ancient Greek has a certain appeal, especially if you’re a student of the true origins of wine. Some will say that if you’re a natural-wine fan, you’re really a connoisseur of the faults that, while rooted out of the juice made by those utilizing contemporary winemaking techniques, will undoubtedly show up in wines created au natural. Personally I’m on the fence. I’ve had just as many naturally-made wines that turned me on as off. What I do like is hearing people debate about wine, so may the conversation continue. × NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 17

A BEST SELLER by Jordan St. John

YOU WOULD BE FORGIVEN FOR NOT KNOWING MUCH ABOUT ONE OF THE WORLD’S BEST-SELLING SPIRITS.

Although Jinro’s Chamisul soju more than doubles the sales of Smirnoff vodka in volume, the vast majority of that volume is consumed in South Korea. In fact, South Korea leads the world in the consumption of hard liquor by an enormous margin, and soju is central to that phenomenon. Across the Sea of Japan, an equivalent beverage, shochu, has been steadily gaining market share over the last decade. As soju continues to grow in popularity, it’s important to understand the context that created it and the drinking culture that fosters its enjoyment. Distilling liquor is not a technique indigenous to either South Korea or Japan, and in both countries the word soju or shochu translates identically as “burned liquor,” referring to the heat needed for distillation. In South Korea, the ability to make liquor was transplanted during the Yuan Dynasty — borrowing techniques from Persia and the Levant where arak had become popular. Possibly due to the successful repulsion of invasions during the Yuan Dynasty, Japan became a later adopter, only taking to distillation by the mid-1500s. Traditionally, soju would have been a single-distillation product made up of a single grain fermentation, most commonly rice although wheat, barley and millet were also used. The process of creating rice wine prior to distillation typically takes 15 days. The nature of this labourious task meant that historically, production was decentralized. In the 1920s, there were more than 3,200 soju distilleries throughout the Korean peninsula. The resulting rice spirit remained above 35 percent alcohol up until the 1960s. 18 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

It’s the period leading up to the 1960s that explains this current boom. In rapid succession, Korea dealt with Japanese colonial rule, the division of the country into north and south, the Korean War and the April Revolution. By 1965, it became necessary to prohibit the use of rice in the manufacture of soju in order to ensure the nation’s food supply. This led to relaxed standards for alcohol content and a certain amount of creativity. Like distilling itself, the sweet potato was a transplant to Korea, and it became instrumental to the production of soju. While the character of soju distilled from grain bases was desirable in a single-distilled liquor, alternative sources of starch required a few more passes to become palatable. The majority of mainstream soju brands don’t engage in distillation at all, acquiring ethanol from a single producer. Multiple-distilled sweet potato ethanol is the basis for all non-traditional varieties, and while the prohibition on using rice was lifted in 1991, it is the diluted version that dominates the market. Since 1965, the alcoholic content of the beverage has been on a steady decline even as sales figures have climbed dramatically. At 20.1 percent alcohol, Jinro’s Chamisul was only introduced in 2002, and managed to dominate the market within 15 years even as Jinro has introduced lower-alcohol variants. GIVEN THAT THE ALCOHOL ALL COMES FROM ONE SOURCE, THE DILUTED CATEGORY DEPENDS ON A NUMBER OF FACTORS IN ORDER TO DEFINE FLAVOUR PROFILES. Since ethanol is fairly neutral, the base white spir-

it is fairly close to vodka in flavour once diluted with water. Of course, depending on the water being used, the minerality will be different between producers. Typically, sugar or an artificial sweetener is added in order to call to mind the sweetness of the rice in traditional versions and to make the soju more palatable. Some versions include citric acid in order to brighten the liquor with a hint of citrus, while others include small amounts of salt to bolster the mouthfeel. The end result is a vodka-like beverage with additional sweetness, viscosity and an alcohol content that typically sits at about half of vodka’s strength. Other ingredients are used for aroma and flavour, but subtly, as soju is not typically used as a drink for reflection or savouring. “It would be appropriate to give someone a bottle of whisky as a present,” explained a Korean friend. “If you give someone soju, you’d better be drinking it with them.” The consumption of soju is highly ritualized; but, rather than a sense of formal structure, it provides a sense of communality. “It’s rules upon rules upon no rules.” Although there are a few conventions that seem to be strictly observed (see sidebar), the activity will be largely familiar to anyone who survived an undergrad residence as a series of drinking games.

The most important thing about drinking soju is that it should be done in a group. Drinking communally is important to the enjoyment of the beverage to the extent that it is a faux pas to pour your own drink. If someone at the table has an empty glass in front of them, you should ask whether they would like another shot, and then pour it for them with both hands (which is similar to sake in some respects; see page 23). When on the receiving end of a pour, it is proper to hold your glass with both hands. It is expressive both of gratitude and of presence. At the beginning of a soju session, it is common for the oldest person at the table to pour the first shot. In this instance, the proper etiquette is to receive the pour with both hands, turn your head away (so as not to display your teeth) and down it in one go.

Soju is best served as cold as possible, as the temperature helps to balance the ethanol sting and sweetness in the body. Since the conventional serving vessel is approximately the size of a shot glass, the taste of the beverage is secondary to the function it performs as a social lubricant. Juice-box-sized containers are available from vending machines and convenience stores for approximately the same price as bottled water. When not consumed communally, soju is typically mixed with water or fruit juice. There is, however, a movement in both Korea and Japan to return to traditional methods of production. In Korea, this means single distillation from rice, which falls under the category of Andong soju. In Japan, single distillation is more diverse, with a variety of shochu bases. While rice and barley are the most commonly used ingredients for this purpose, retaining the subtleties of those base grains in the flavour of the liquor, some more distinctive ingredients have been given World Trade Organization designations. Satsuma shochu from Kagoshima is made with sweet potato, and tends to have a stronger taste than grain-based versions. These higher-quality artisanal versions are making a push in the market even as the lower-alcohol products gain traction with younger drinkers, perhaps forecasting a decline in the mid-range of the category, which gravitates to around 25 percent alcohol. Whether you choose to explore the extremely popular range of lower-alcohol soju beverages or the high-end single distillates, there’s one certainty: it is best enjoyed among a group of friends in a spirit of frivolity and fun. × NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 19

GANBEI! by Tod Stewart

A LIGHT, WARM RAIN WAS FALLING AS DIGNITARIES, DELEGATES AND MEDIA descended on the Hilton Hotel To-

ronto/Markham Suites Conference Centre & Spa just northeast of Toronto. The Jiangsu Yanghe Distillery Co., one of China’s oldest, largest and most established spirit makers, had invited us to welcome something truly iconic to the Ontario market. As the afternoon progressed, there were flashy presentations, flashy entertainers and speeches. Many, many speeches. I understood not a word of most of them since my familiarity with Mandarin is about equal to my familiarity with the product at the centre of all the attention, namely, baijiu. The reason for the festivities was that Ontario’s chief liquor purveyor, the LCBO, had ordered four of Yanghe’s baijius. Judging by the turnout for the event and the (apparent) earnestness of what was being said at the podium, this seemingly unremarkable act by a provincial liquor board was a Very Big Deal indeed.

I drove home with a few questions on my mind: Were baijiu distillers seriously looking to expand outside their own domestic market? If so, why wasn’t there a stronger non-Asian media presence in the room? (And why not at least a few speeches in English?) But mainly I wondered if most baijiu was just too “out there” to gain wide appeal. The December/January 2016/17 issue of Quench ran a thorough story that gave the lowdown on baijiu — its production, classification, consumption and importance in Chinese culture — which you can read by going online (www.quench.me/ drinks/baijiu-bridges/) if you don’t have a copy handy. To give you the Coles Notes version, baijiu is a high-octane spirit that’s created in a rather complex manner from a variety of grains and other raw materials, then aged in earthenware containers until ready to bottle. The aroma and flavour of baijiu has been politely called “challenging,” which again made me wonder if there was s a global market for the stuff.

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“Absolutely,” affirmed Derek Sandhaus when I posed him the question. “Hundreds of millions of Chinese drink baijiu every day and love it, and we’re operating with the same hardware.” Sandhaus literally wrote the book on baijiu, or at least the definitive English-language book, Baijiu: The Essential Guide to Chinese Spirits. The national drink of China is, by all accounts, one of the most popular spirits in the world based on the volume consumed (hundreds of millions of Chinese can’t be wrong). According to China’s National Bureau of Statistics, the country produced around 13 billion litres of the stuff last year. Billion. So why is it more-or-less off the radar outside the People’s Republic? “The biggest obstacles to baijiu’s broader international acceptance, in my view, are accessibility — people don’t know what it is or how to drink it — and availability — people don’t know where to buy it,” Sandhaus opines.

FEN CHIEW, SHANXI XINGHUA CUN FENJIU DISTILLERY CO. LTD ($30)

James Ji, Sales Manager for Shanxi Xinghua Cun Fenjiu Distillery Co. Ltd. (it just rolls off the tongue) reports that his company is indeed making efforts to break into new markets. “Our products have been exported to over 50 countries,” Ji says. “We design, produce and supply products to new markets based on the needs of the foreign buyers. We also modify our packaging, engage in sales, marketing, and promotional activities, advertise and participate in trade and consumer exhibitions.” Some of which is certainly paying off. The availability of baijiu in Canada (or, at least from my perch in Ontario) seems to be gradually growing as beverage alcohol importers, like those in Ontario and BC, realize the sales potential locked up in this virtually untapped market. That being said, this untapped market is made up almost exclusively of those of Chinese descent, and while Sandhaus may be correct in stating that the Chinese share the same “hardware” as the rest of the earth’s

Crystal clear and bottled at 53% ABV, this spirit shows a vaguely nutty, earthy, acetate nose that leads to a dry, dusky and hot, hot, hot palate. All said, somewhat medicinal and pretty aggressive, with a long, earthy/mineral finish.

FEN CHIEW, SHANXI XINGHUA CUN FENJIU DISTILLERY CO. LTD ($55/500 ML) Other than the more elaborate packaging and strength of 48% ABV, there’s not much to initially distinguish this Fen Chiew from the one above. Apparently, the difference has to do with the number of times this one has been distilled and how long it’s been aged. Certainly very different aromatically — not as volatile, with musky, earthy, vegetal, wet gravel aromas. The flavours are, well, pretty hard to describe. Funky and very dry, with hot, peppery, vegetal notes. Finish is persistent with vegetal/soy flavours.

CHU YEH CHING CHIEW, SHANXI XINGHUA CUN FENJIU DISTILLERY CO. LTD ($60/500 ML) A modest 45% ABV for this very pale, straw-coloured number that lists bamboo leaves and sugar on the ingredients list. I can only surmise that this is a sort of flavoured version of what I’ve reviewed above. Earthy, soy sauce, miso and all things aromatically funky, meaty and mysteriously fermented. Viscous and sweetish, with beefy, vegetable soup and fermented soy notes. The finish is very long. And persistent. And, well, let’s just say it’s different. Very different.

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population, this doesn’t necessarily mean similar tastes exist everywhere. We may all have the same instrument, but they are often tuned rather differently. SO HOW DO THE UNINITIATED GET INTO THIS DECIDEDLY ALIEN STUFF? Well, first accept that it won’t be

GUJINGGONG YUANJIANG LIQUOR, ANHUI GUJING DISTILLERY COMPANY LIMITED ($65/500 ML) The packaging is kinda cute — a red bottle in an equally cute red and yellow bag. Aromatically, however, it goes in places where the average nose rarely wants to go. Can something be candied, meaty and fishy all at once? Sweet and savoury, it’s kind of like tasting Juicy Fruit gum and Bovril (combined with a 50% ABV spirit) at the same time.

TIANZHILAN CELESTIAL BLUE, JIANGSU YANGHE DISTILLERY CO. LTD. ($100/500 ML) This spirit is bottled at either 42% or 52% ABV. But, as there is no indication on the attractive blue sample bottle I have, I’m not sure which version I tasted. Very forceful on the nose with a rather intriguing combination of grape bubblegum, steamed Brussels sprouts and nail polish remover. In the mouth, it’s fruity/earthy/funky/sweaty/vegetal/bovine/marine and just about the strangest thing I’ve ever tasted.

MENGZHILAN DREAM BLUE M6, JIANGSU YANGHE DISTILLERY CO. LTD. ($315/500 ML) Ever wonder what a $315 per 500ml Chinese spirit tastes like? Well, I’m going to tell you anyway. Pretty similar (as far as my unaccustomed nose can tell) to the previous sample, it sports the same incongruent aromas of fruit, funk and fermented matter. It’s definitely earthier than the previous sample, not as overtly fruity and more complex. At 53% ABV, it’s surprisingly smooth — and incredibly persistent, with a finish that just does not let up. Which could be good or bad, depending on your personal tastes. 22 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

easy. Baijiu can be a pretty intense spirit. “There are about 12 aromas to classify baijiu styles,” says Renmei Nie, Deputy General Manager of Guizhou Moutai Chiew I & E Co., Ltd., producer of the most famous baijiu brand. “The three main aroma styles are Sauce Aroma, Strong Aroma, and Light Aroma. Moutai represents the Strong Aroma, which also has the most complicated production process. The taste and aroma of Moutai are unique and complex; it has over 155 different flavours and aromas in every drop. Some of these include wheat, grain, soy sauce, malt beer, strawberries, mango, coconut, chocolate, caramel, smoke and more.” A newbie wishing to explore this (more or less) uncharted drinking frontier is best to venture forth thusly: “I have found that most people who approach baijiu clean — with no past experience or preconceptions — generally enjoy at least one or two of the predominant styles,” Sandhaus confirms, adding that the relative assertiveness of the main styles should also be factored in. “When I am introducing people to baijiu for the first time, I like to do a tasting of the four major styles in increasing complexity — rice aroma, light aroma, strong aroma, then sauce aroma — so they can see the category’s diversity,” he says. That’s fine. But the problem is knowing to what style a certain baijiu conforms. Even getting confirmation on that front can be tricky. To begin, are there three major styles or four (or 12)? In any case, heeding the advice of Saundhaus, I cleared my mind as best I could and waded into unfamiliar flavours. If my notes sound like I don’t exactly know what I’m talking about, it’s because I don’t. There is no benchmark to reference. I tasted them all neat, at room temperature, and completely sober. ×

NEVER EMPTY

by Lisa Hoekstra

The concepts of courtesy and hospitality infuse Japanese culture — from elegant tea ceremonies to dinner-table etiquette (for example, saying Itadakimasu before you eat to show appreciation for the meal and its ingredients). So, it’s no surprise that sake has its own set of “rules,” which are followed to express appreciation for the brewed rice wine as well as your host and hospitality to your guests. “If I have to pick one serving rule: you do not pour for yourself in Japan,” says Etsuko Nakamura. A Sake Samurai and Advanced Sake Professional certified by The Sake Education Council, Nakamura leads tours of sake breweries around Japan (www.saketours.com) and works for the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association in Tokyo. “Your guests should never have an empty glass and you shouldn’t pour for yourself,” says Mariko Tajiri. “It’s a gesture of hospitality and respect. If you ever go to Japan, have Japanese guests or have a Japanese boss, make sure their glasses are never empty!” Tajiri is the National Brand Manager for That’s Life Gourmet, a boutique sake and wine agency. She’s completed her WSET training for wine as well as being certified as an Advanced Sake Professional through the Sake Education Council and the Sake Service Institute. Recently, she took on the role of VP of Knowledge and Education with the Sake Institute of Ontario (the people behind events like Kampai Toronto and the Toronto International Sake Challenge), where she plans events and teaches future sake lovers all about this unique Japanese brew. Serving comes with its own set of cultural and traditional rules, the first of which is, as Tajiri and Nakamura mention, to never pour it yourself. The second is never letting a cup run dry. That “cup” is usually an ochoko, which, according to Tajiri, can look different depending on where you are in Japan because “there are regionally traditional tableware styles throughout Japan.”

“Different types of sake vessels will definitely affect your experience. The shape and texture of the glass or cup will impact how you enjoy aroma and flavour,” Nakamura says. “In Japan, you often see sake served in a small ceramic cup or glassware. Sake with a big flavour can work well with a thick pottery cup. Outside of Japan, wine glasses would work very well. Enjoy light and aromatic sake in wine glasses with a thin rim.” However, you can enjoy sake just as well from whatever glass you have in your cupboard. “I personally recommend using a wine glass like an ISO so that you can nose and taste sake like you would with wine,” Tajiri says. “My grandfather drank out of his tea mug that could probably fit half a bottle!” Pouring sake is an art in and of itself, one that requires two hands and a pleasant smile. (Okay, maybe not the pleasant smile, but I think after a sip or two of sake, you’ll be smiling anyway). To serve, you hold the tokkuri (or bottle) in the middle using your right hand. Then, you place your left hand on the side of the flask — “to be polite,” Nakamura explains. But presumably it’s also to steady the flask so you don’t spill all over your guest. NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 23

Terminology

Like wine, beer and spirits, sake has its own language — and I’m not just referring to Japanese! Here are the common words you’ll find on the labels and in your sake journey.

BOTTLE & CONTAINER SIZES Issho-bin: 1.8 litre Nigo-Tokkuri: 360 ml Shitodaru: 72 litres Ichigo-Masu: 180 ml

CUPS

Choko: smaller porcelain or ceramic cup; typical sake cup you’d see around Masu: wooden, box-like cup Sakazuki: flat, saucer-like cup Guinomi: usually larger and made of porcelain or ceramic

DECANTERS

Tokkuri: ceramic serving flasks Katakuchi: bowl-shaped vessel with a mouth for pouring along the rim O-choshi: long-handled vessel used to pour sake into cups; also called choshi

ACCOMPANIMENTS

O-toshi: pre-meal snack served at a restaurant; also called saki-zuke O-hiya: water served at a restaurant Yawaragi-mizu: water chaser served with your sake

Speaking of your guest, they are also participating in this quasi-ritual. Those receiving sake should lift their glass or ochoko, also using both hands — one hand holding the ochoko and the other under the bottom. “This is to show respect to the person pouring sake,” explains Nakamura. It is also customary because the size of tokkuris make them difficult to pour. “When someone is pouring for you, you should lift your glass or ochoko,” Tajiri mentions. “Especially when it’s an isshobin [1.8-litre magnum bottles], it’s super difficult to pour into a glass that’s on the table … do your server or sommelier a service and lift it up.” As with wine, beers and pretty much every other thing you might want to taste, sake follows the look-sniff-swirl-taste pattern. Nakamura gave me the breakdown: “For sake tasting, you often see sake in a white porcelain cup with two blue circles inside the cup. Check the colour first. Then, you check the aroma. Sip and taste. See the colour and clarity of sake by using the blue concentric circle in the bottom of the sake cup as a measure. Swirl the sake cup gently, so that the aroma of sake is rising from the cup. Breathe in the aroma. Sip the sake. Spread it over the surface of your tongue and taste it. See if it is rich or light flavoured. Is it mild or dry? Exhale gently through the nose and smell the fukumi-ka scent.” 24 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

Now, proper etiquette on the host’s part is to always pour for you and ensure your glass never runs dry. But what do you do if you don’t want any more sake? This depends on the situation you’re in. “If you’re in Japan, in a business environment, I would try to avoid saying no to more sake,” cautions Tajiri. “Just drink slower.” “However,” Nakamura adds, “if you cannot drink sake any more, simply say, ‘Thank you, but no thank you.’” When you’re out with friends, it’s not a big deal to say “no.” In fact, when you’re in a casual environment, just enjoying sake, shake off that fear of not following proper etiquette and just enjoy. “The traditions and gestures are certainly nice and we should respect them. But no one is going to penalize you for not knowing them, or not following them too closely,” says Tajiri. “Take a sip. Even when the cup is small, it is not a shot glass. So, no ‘bottoms up,’” Nakamura says. “Enjoy the sake. Also, enjoy the sake with food and see how well it pairs with different type of cuisine.” Following the customs and etiquette helps you enjoy the cultural and traditional heritage of this beverage, but you’re not going to be shunned by the masses if you pour with one hand, forget to lift your glass or drink it from a mug. In fact, sake etiquette is changing, too. “These ‘rules’ are also being challenged and adapting all the time,” Tajiri states. “I had an 80-year-old Chairperson of a very well-known sake brewery tell me that she thinks that many of these rules, like not pouring for yourself, are silly in this day and age … I think the lesson here is to not overthink sake and enjoy it as you would any other drink.” The end goal is enjoyment and the ancient traditions help to serve that goal. “It is a way to show hospitality, but more than that, it is great way to start a conversation, or to enjoy the time with people you are drinking with,” Nakamura adds. “I would not worry too much about etiquette for drinking occasions, formal or informal. When in Japan, I think one rule to remember is to serve others. But when you share some sake with Japanese people, you’ll soon find them pretty relaxed about the pouring rules.” ×

BŌSHITSU by Tod Stewart

PHOTOS: PETER WELD

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Not quite an edge-of-your-seat page-turner, The Textbook of Sake Brewing by the Brewing Society of Japan nonetheless offers some rather eloquent prose: “The moisture content of steamed rice influences the ease of handling through factors such as its hardness or the ease by which the lumps of the steamed and the cooled rice can be broken up, and the growth of the Kōji fungi around the kernel or its enzyme activity,” to cite but one example. It also sports a glossary of sake brewing terms where the inquisitive can learn the meaning of such exotic terms as shinseki, hikikomi, tsubodai, dakidaru and bōshitsu, the latter being particularly noteworthy. BŌSHITSU: Accidental disappearance of finished sake. Leave it to the Japanese to devise a term specific to the pilfering of the nation’s national drink. The midsection of that word is likely the utterance of any brewmaster upon discovering the “accidental” disappearance of his work. It was a rather warm February afternoon on the observation deck of Tokyo’s Haneda Airport. Truth be told, the warmth was accentuated courtesy of a few rather fine shots of Japanese whisky that I had at a rather fine airport whisky bar. Lacking any other English reading material, and, frankly, lacking the energy to go looking for some, I cracked the spine of The Textbook of Sake Brewing. I almost made it through the opening paragraph before my mind started to wander, leading me to think about the circumstances surrounding the non-accidental disappearance of finished sake (a fair amount to be honest) down my throat over the past little while. I had landed at Haneda two weeks earlier with the Lonely Planet Japan guidebook clutched in hand, the Google Translate Japan package loaded on my phone and perhaps the worst cold I’d ever had screwing with the jet-lagged mush that was, at some point in time, my brain. But whatever, I was in Japan to gain intimate knowledge of sake and I wasn’t about to let little things like crossing the International Date Line as a Type 1 diabetic with a cranium-compressing malady mess with my party. (I mention the diabetic part only to assure other diabetics that travelling through multiple time zones is no big deal … Japan was actually easier than I had anticipated. If you want tips, please email me at tstewart@quench.me)

First-timers (as I was) to Japan will find the country fascinating, perplexing and totally alien. At once a mixture of incredible precision and efficiency, it’s also frustratingly formal and awash in rules and regulations (some written; most not) and subtleties that even the most fastidious outsiders will likely miss. Depending on your particular demeanour, Japan will be totally your bag or totally not. The language thing is definitely a thing. Your worldly friends might encouragingly say, “Oh, don’t worry, everyone there speaks English.” They don’t. Maybe in the airports, swank hotels and the downtown-iest parts of downtown Tokyo, but stray a tad off the beaten track and you’re S.O.L. (As an aside, the Google Translate Japan package really does work, and it got me out of a few uncomfortable situations.) On the upside, the Japanese are almost impossibly courteous and ac-

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commodating. They know you are feeling a bit, well, lost in translation. Luckily, the first half of my stay was as a guest of the Japan Sake and Schochu Makers Association (hereafter known as the JSS) with the fluent-in-English Etsuko Nakamura (a Sake Samurai — yep, that’s a real title) acting as my translator, guide and tour coordinator. The focus of my trip was largely to be an exploration of the sakes of the Hiroshima Prefecture — and all that goes into their production and enjoyment. However, before jetting from Tokyo to Hiroshima, I was first treated to a couple of informative presentations, one from Yoshiro Okamoto of the JSS and one from John Gauntner, who is widely regarded as the world’s foremost non-Asian sake expert. Okamoto’s presentation revealed some interesting facts: consumption of premium sake domestically is on the upswing,

particularly among the young ’uns, and, next to the United States, Canada is the number one non-Asian export market. Gauntner gave me a crash course in sake, taking me through the styles, labourious production steps and the importance of each sake component — from the polished and steamed rice, the mysterious koji that works together with specific yeast strains to create a unique “parallel fermentation” and, of course, the water used, and how fermentation is slower using soft water rather than hard. Soft water is what you’ll typically find in the Hiroshima Prefecture. A producer of some of Japan’s most premium sake today, this wasn’t always the case. Up until about 120 years ago, the region had a less-thangreat brewing reputation: its water lacked the minerals necessary to nourish fermentation. This changed when a brewer named Senzaburo Miura, from the village

of Akitsu, which faces the beautiful Seto Inland Sea, mastered soft water brewing. He also created a new style of sake — ginjo — and focused national attention on the area when the sake produced here started to consistently take home top awards from the Zenkoku Shinshu Kampyou-kai, Japan’s most prestigious sake competition. “Try a hundred things, and make a thousand improvements,” Miura is quoted as saying. You can see the house where Miura lived from the Imada Shuzo Sake Brewery Co., a small, family-run producer of top-quality sake established in 1868. The brewery’s white outer walls reflected the afternoon sun as I sat at a table enjoying some extremely elegant and complex Fukucho sake and scarfing down fantastic fried local oysters. If the song of sake is to ring throughout the English-speaking world, the JSS

could do worse than to recruit Miho Imada as the bandleader. Personable, passionate and photogenic, Imada not only speaks fluent English, but she’s also a woman toji or master brewer. And she owns the brewery. Though more women are working in the sake industry, it’s still pretty male dominated. Having a toji who is also a brewery owner who is also a woman is a rare circumstance. Imada’s Fukucho brand sakes epitomize what Hiroshima is all about: aromatic, balanced, subtly complex, gently fruity, with a silky mouthfeel and a clean, lasting finish. The ingredients are basic(ish): polished, steamed rice, koji, yeast and water (okay, brewer’s alcohol too, in the case of non-junmai-grade sake). The quality of each ingredient is crucial, and how they are treated and interact is precise. Rice is to sake as grapes are to wine — though with sake, the strain of yeast used during fermentation is a more important NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 27

flavour component than the yeast used for wine. Yamadanishiki is perhaps the most popular sake rice, but other, more local varieties are also being used (Bizen-Omachi, Hattan Nishiki and Iwai being a few). Yet it’s more about how the rice is treated that reflects the pedigree of a particular bottling. I WATCHED CLOUDS OF VAPOUR BILLOWING OUT OF RICE STEAMERS IN A NUMBER OF BREWERIES. Steaming —

as far as I could tell — typically takes place at an hour when most nocturnally inclined writers are still half-dead. Nonetheless, I bravely hauled myself out of bed on a daily basis to board the bus, don slippery slippers (shoe wearing being verboten in breweries) and observe the rice-steaming ritual, shivering while the early morning winter sun streamed through open windows. After the rice is washed and soaked to clean away the rice dust (I’ll talk about where that 28 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

comes from in a bit), it’s steamed to soften the grains, preparing them for the infusion of koji and ensuring they break up during fermentation. The aim is to get them to a “reverse al dente” state: firm on the outside, soft on the inside. Today’s misty observations are happening at the Fujii Shuzo Sake Brewery in the preservation district of Takehara City (aka, Little Kyoto) with its intricate latticework, heritage sites and historic residences and temples dating back to the Edo Period. The brewery itself was founded in 1863 and today remains a small, artisanal producer of exclusively junmai sake (pure rice sake with no added alcohol). The brewery’s Ryusei brand sakes are award-winning, relying on the high-quality local water and a blend of three strains of sake rice specially grown by local farmers. “Sake is not a man-made product,” says fifth-generation proprietor Yoshifumi Fuji, “but a product of nature.” From the rice growing (more often than not by locally contracted farmers), to the polishing, washing, steaming and koji cultivation, through to the particular yeast strains, the creation of the yeast starter, the “parallel fermentation” that’s unique to sake brewing, the filtration and the final aging, making sake takes a lot of hard work. Most of the breweries I visited, including a handful of artisan producers in the town of Saijo — Hiroshima’s “sake town” where you can tour eight top-quality breweries on foot — sport little, if any, automation. Even the newer breweries, like Saijo’s Kamoizumi Shuzo (only 105 or so years old), adhere to traditional production methods even while pioneering new styles. There’s plenty of information available that deals with the ins and outs of sake production so I will try not to belabour it here. However, it is interesting to see how many peripheral entities aid in the process. Earlier, I talked about rice dust, which is the result of the rice being

polished during the initial stage of sake production. Some breweries polish their own rice while others have it polished by an outside mill. Koji, the mould (Aspergillus oryzae) that breaks down the rice grain’s starch core, rendering it fermentable, is cultivated by outside companies, like Osaka’s Higuchi Matsunosuke Shoten Co., one of only six companies in Japan to breed the stuff. Yeast used for fermentation is also incredibly important for developing the aromas and flavour components of sake. Ongoing research, experimentation and quality enhancement is equally important. Cultivation of the various yeast strains and their distribution is largely handled by the Brewing Society of Japan, with the experimentation, research, quality enhancement and oversight of the Annual Japan Sake Awards handled by the National Research Institute of Brewing and Sake Appraisal (NRIBS). THE JSS TOUR LEFT ME INFORMED, ENLIGHTENED AND EXCITED TO LEARN EVEN MORE ABOUT JAPAN’S NATIONAL DRINK. And that was only

the first of my two-week stint. I spent another week on my own, continuing my

(somewhat wide-eyed) explorations as I blasted from Osaka to Kyoto to Tokyo on the incredible Shinkansen “bullet” trains, collecting memories, souvenirs and unforgettable experiences, many revolving around Japan’s incredible cuisine. An amazingly presented and paced (not to mention deliriously tasty) kaiseki lunch at Kyoto’s Seiwasou with Tsuneo Maruyama, President of the Tamanohikari Shuzo Brewery and Production Manager Matsushima Yasuyuki, and a mind-blowing omakase dinner served to me personally, piece by piece (about 24 of them as far as I could count), by Kodan (Ken) Tenmabashi, Owner and Chef of Osaka’s Omakase Kodan are but two of my countless food adventures. Kaiseki is a stylish and stylized dining ritual that is nirvana for the type of person who appreciates subtlety, beauty, relaxation and, well, meditation when it comes to dining. If you are a pizza and beer type, keep away. Far away. Maruyama courteously poured more sake every time my glass was rendered half full. His glass remained empty for probably half the meal as I totally forgot the “I fill yours, you fill mine” sake-drinking etiquette (see page 23). I did mention that there were subtle-

ties involved with kaiseki, right? As I recall, he finally resorted to pouring his own. (My apologies, Tsuneo.) Omakase might, in the grand hierarchy of Japanese eating, be viewed as less sophisticated than kaiseki, but it’s no less delicious (and far less fussy). Born in Osaka, Tenmabashi spent a couple of years in British Columbia before returning to Osaka to open Kodan. “How adventurous are you?,” he asked, with what I took to be a “I dare you” tone of voice. “I’m not saying I’m going to like it all,” I lied knowing I probably would, “but hit me with everything you’ve got.” He did … and I did. The multi-course masterclass in gastronomic bliss was matched with a range of craft sakes and capped off by a dram of Nikka Taketsuru 17 Year Old Japanese single malt whisky. I’ve seriously contemplated flying back to Japan solely for a repeat performance. As Air Canada Flight 006 ascended from Haneda, with the glittering nighttime expanse of downtown Tokyo disappearing as the landing gear thunked snugly into the belly of the plane, I shut off the reading light, slid in the noise-cancelling earbuds and drifted off … exhausted, slightly overwhelmed and eager to return. × NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 29

KANPAI! Whether it’s the nuanced notes of sake or a bold shot of baijiu, these distinctive Asian drinks make exotic bases for your next cocktail party.

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ROSEMARY CRANBERRY PUNCH 2 oz baijiu 1 oz rosemary simple syrup (recipe below) 1 oz orange juice 2 oz cranberry juice Pitted cranberries Place the pitted cranberries in the freezer overnight. Mix the baijiu, rosemary simple syrup, orange and cranberry juices in a tall glass. Stir until blended. Add just a bit of ice (to avoid diluting the drink too much). Add the frozen cranberries just before you serve for some extra chill.

ROSEMARY SIMPLE SYRUP 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup water 4 springs of rosemary

Heat the sugar and water over medium-low until the sugar is completely dissolved. Stir on a regular basis. Remove from the heat and add the rosemary. Bruise the rosemary a bit by gently pressing on the sprigs. Infuse the rosemary and simple syrup for a couple hours. Bottle it for future use. It will last a couple of weeks in the refrigerator.

NOVEMBER 2017 Ă— QUENCH.ME Ă— 31

SAKE FIZZ 3 oz nigori sake 2 oz berry sparkling water Strawberries Using the cloudy, unfiltered nigori will give the cocktail an almost candy-like finish. Mix the ingredients together and finish with some ice and sliced strawberries.

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BLACKBERRY CRUSH

2 oz soju 4 oz club soda 1 oz lavender simple syrup* Blackberries Stir the soju, club soda and simple syrup together. Crush 3 to 4 blackberries per glass. Stir some more. Add ice and a sprig of lavender. *To make the lavender simple syrup, follow the same instructions as the rosemary version on page 31 but with lavender instead of rosemary. I guess that’s obvious. ×

NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 33

MAKING THE SCENE by Craig Pinhey

The Western world, particularly North America, has exploded with small breweries crafting a diverse range of flavourful beers — and this has been amped up over the past five years. However, this microbrewery explosion is not unique to the West as the East Asian beer scene is now also seeing major growth. Although there is evidence that early fermented beverages in China — those dating back to before 5000 BC — were at least partially made from grain, and could thus be called beer, the modern history of beer in Asia began with the German influence in the late 1800s. A good example is Japan. German influence resulted in the big brewery Japanese beers most people know today, including Kirin, Sapporo (founded in 1876) and Asahi. As explained in Rod Phillips’ book, Alcohol, A History, the commercial production of beer started in Japan in the 1870s, based on German practices and style, and it quickly displaced much of the foreign beer imports. The first beer hall opened in Tokyo in 1899, but beer was also a popular beverage in teahouses and restaurants. To get a feel for the scene at that time, you can visit the Sapporo Beer Museum and Biergarten in Tokyo, housed in a beautiful 1890 building that was originally a sugar factory. Similar crisp, hoppy German-influenced lagers are the core of the industry in much of the rest of Asia, including in China (Tsingtao, founded in 1903 by German settlers), Thailand (Singha, Chang), and India (Kingfisher). Just like Bud and Coors — although the Asian lagers are generally more bitter and flavourful — they are still the biggest selling beers in their markets, but microbrewery beers (or Jibiru,

as they call them in Japan) are growing in popularity. Pretty much all of East Asia is experiencing a good beer boom. Just like in North America, the big breweries are getting into the game, brewing classic European- or American-style beers in addition to their basic golden lagers. But it is the small breweries that pioneered the movement towards full-flavoured beer. A great example is Shiga Kogen, which I visited way back in 2006 while in the area to see the famous snow monkeys. Produced by the pioneering Japanese microbrewery and historic (since ~1805) sake producer Tamamura Honten in Yamanouchi, near Nagano, Shiga Kogen beers could pass for West Coast microbrews. Their pale ale was inspired by Sierra Nevada — a worthy role model — and they have been brewing Western-inspired hoppy IPAs and porters since 2004. Although, thanks to such pioneers, it’s increasingly easy to find West Coast-style IPAs in Asia, there’s much more on offer. Charles Guerrier is Conference Director for the Southeast Asia Brewers Conference (SEA Brew, held this year on August 17-18 in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam), and has over 20 years of food and beverage experience in Asia. While he notes that American-style hoppy beers are one of the two biggest

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trends in Asia, the other trend is using local ingredients. “Many breweries realize the need to develop their own identity,” he explains, “and work hard to create beers using ingredients their patrons are familiar with.” Examples include Passionfruit Wheat from Pasteur Street Brewing Co., Vietnam; Puppet Master ThaIPA from Full Moon Brew Works, Thailand (a collaboration with Australia’s Stockade Brewing); and Sticky Mango from Lamzing Brewery, Thailand. As for American-style IPAs and their ilk, “These may not necessarily be the best thing for the Southeast Asian region,” notes Guerrier, “where the weather is hot all year round and not entirely suited to big, bold hoppy beers — more breweries are now starting to move into more subtle varieties in order to grow their market share.” Guerrier cites these as three of the most exciting breweries in South East Asia: Pasteur Street Brewing Company (Ho Chi Minh City) - “They have a huge repertoire of fantastic beers and are the leaders in the SE Asian market at the moment. Their Jasmine IPA is a must-have in Vietnam: clean and crisp with a delicate hint of locally grown jasmine.” Boxing Cat Brewery (Shanghai, China) “Anything from their barrel-aging project.” Encanto Brewery (Philippines) - “They are brewing very good lighter beers, less

full-bodied, with an aim to opening up the craft beer market in the Philippines and making their flavours more accessible to new craft beer converts.” The relatively new microbrewing scene in India started in 2009, according to Ajit Balgi, a certified wine educator who runs The Happy High, a Mumbai-based beverage consulting and marketing company. “It started in 2009 in Gurgaon and Pune,” he says, “and then Bangalore, and now there are about 100 brewpubs in India. The number of breweries in Bangalore and Gurgaon in the Indian context is unparalleled, with Mumbai and Pune at a distant third.” Balgi explains that the Indian consumer is just beginning to wake up to good beer. “Wheat beers, stouts and IPAs are understood by most people,” he notes, although extremely high IBU beers are far from mainstream. “A few trends in the craft scene in India are bottled beers from brew pubs being sold at retail and institutions, and apple ciders,” says Balgi. “Indians have a sweet tooth and these ciders

get them initiated into the beer scene.” He, like Guerrier, notes the local trend. “The use of local flavours has been rampant across the country, with some flavours being mango, coconut, jaggery, hibiscus, Indian spices and more.” Bajit’s two favourite breweries are The Biere Club in Bangalore and The Barking Deer (Mumbai’s first), which opened in 2015. “I like the Fallen Angel Chocolate stout from the latter,” he says. He also recommends Independence Brewing from Pune and Biergarten Bengaluru. According to Theresa Pinhey, a beer lover from Calgary currently teaching high school English in Japan, the German influence is still strong there. “Nowadays, the most common styles you’ll see here are kölschs, pilsners and weizens. Some breweries do make ales and other styles as well, but what I have noticed is how the German styles sell big. All the Japanese people here are used to Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo, so they generally prefer those flavours, and the microbreweries are reflecting that.”

She has been dipping her toes in the Jabiru scene, including attending the recent Kofu Kraft Bier festival, in Kofu, Yamanashi, featuring breweries from the area. “There were around seven of them,” she says, “which is six more than I anticipated.” In addition to Tokorozawa, from Yamanashi, she was very impressed by Minoh, from Osaka. “They had something different than the others. Most microbreweries in Japan are trying the same thing as everyone else — get an ale, a pilsner, an IPA, a golden ... basically everyone is starting with the same formulas. Which is still awesome but Minoh had a lot of different stuff to show.” In yet another example of the local trend, Minoh brews seasonal beers with ingredients like yuzu, a bitter citrus fruit, and umeshu, Japanese plum wine. “If I had to pick a specific Japanese-special beer,” she says, “that yuzu IPA is definitely up there.” So, whether you are in Canada or Asia, it’s clear that local is most important when it comes to good beer — and that’s as it should be. × NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 35

FLIGHTS OF FANCY by Michael Pinkus

Look, there is no doubt that there are two camps when it comes to Chardonnay: those who love it and those we call ABCers (Anything But Chardonnay). The i4C (International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration) is geared mainly to those who fall into the former category rather than the latter. I classify myself among the ABC camp, though I’m probably not as staunch as some I have met over the years. As a taster of wine and a reviewer who has been writing about wines for more than 15 years, I have tasted more than my fair share of Chardonnay and have come to know what I personally like and don’t like in the wines made from this grape. What the i4C does for me is open my eyes to those countries that are now making Chardonnay (and it is a growing membership). 36 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

LEFT: Adamo winemaker Shauna White pours for grape grower Matthias Oppenlaender. BELOW: Simon Gauthier, winemaker at Vignoble du Domaine St-Jacques

ADAMO ESTATE WINERY SOGNO UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2016, ONTARIO ($17.25) Fresh and lively with peach, pear and pineapple notes.

Since Ontario hosts the event, there are plenty of local wineries in attendance, but who would have thought “cool” Chardonnay could come from such places as Spain, Chile or Uruguay (yes, Uruguay), which are making surprisingly delicious versions. When I see that, I am reminded of what a winemaker once said to me, “Chardonnay is like a weed: it grows anywhere; it finds a way.” Of course, there’s no surprise that New Zealand, France, Austria and Canada all make fine “cool” Chardonnays. But it was a surprise that both Nova Scotia and Quebec have stepped up to the plate and shine on a “world” stage, showing that it’s not just about Ontario and British Columbia any more. On the other side of the coin, we still find offenders from California and Australia, who continue to dilute their Chardonnay with too much oak, which in turn continues to divide the camps, and might even be the root of the ABC movement and why it continues. That said, I am happy to report that there are producers who are getting the message about lighter oak usage. Chardonnay continues to divide people who have to pick which type of Chardonnay is right for them. But after tasting through the i4C wines, I realized that maybe it’s not Chardonnay’s fault that it’s such a polarizing grape – after all, it is one of the most pliable grapes in the world and can chameleon itself into whatever a winemaker wants it to be. Instead, maybe it’s not the player (Chardonnay), maybe it’s the game (winemaking) – a perfect example of Don’t Hate the Player, Hate the Game. In the end, you can’t stay mad at wine for long, can you? Sooner or later, something will win you over.

BACHELDER NIAGARA CHARDONNAY 2015, ONTARIO ($24.95) Aromas of lime meringue kick things off, then vanilla, peach and apple purée appear in the mouth with a nice, long finish.

BORTHWICK VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2016, WAIRARAPA, NEW ZEALAND ($25) A small-batch Chardonnay made from 1 hectare of fruit, producing only 800 cases. Oak aged for a mere 6 months for texture, this wine has lovely minerality and pear fruit with a fine finish.

CREMASCHI FURLOTTI CHARDONNAY RESERVE 2016, CHILE ($17) Six months in second-use oak barrels keeps the freshness, with lemon and lime on the nose; grapefruit and green apple finish.

DELOACH O.F.S. CHARDONNAY 2013, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES ($44) Very oak-dominant California style with plenty of buttered toffee on the nose and palate, leading to apple purée and a certain smokiness on the finish.

DOMAINE BERGER-RIVE MANOIR DE MERCEY CLOS DES DAMES 2015, BOURGOGNE HAUTES CÔTES DE BEAUNE, FRANCE ($26.95) The Burgundians love to dive deep when it comes to naming a wine, giving it a specific location. It’s hard not to like the mineral-stoniness of this wine, which also delivers apple and pear notes. NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 37

FAMILIA TRAVERSA CHARDONNAY 2016, URUGUAY ($12.95) Only 1 month in medium-toast American oak barrels still gives this wine a smoky note, which shows the intensity of the fruit. The finish is reminiscent of smoked apples.

INVIVO GISBORNE CHARDONNAY 2016, NEW ZEALAND ($16.95) A richly developed Chardonnay for not a lot of dough. Peach, melon, vanilla, buttery and delicately spiced on the finish.

JACKSON-TRIGGS RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2016, NIAGARA ($13.95) A fruit-forward number with a kiss of vanilla, along with apple, pear, peach and some lemonade notes. Amazing depth and complexity considering the mere 6 to 8 months in oak.

HAHN CHARDONNAY 2015, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES ($23) A bare-bones California Chardonnay with subtle melon and tropical aromas and flavours, and good acidity backing it all up.

DOMAINE LAROCHE CHABLIS SAINT MARTIN 2015, BURGUNDY, FRANCE ($25.25) Crisp and dry, which is important to note off the top because of the pretty sweet pear and apple notes that emit from the glass upon sniffs one and two before the delicate minerality of Chablis takes over in the mouth.

PELLER ESTATES PRIVATE RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2015, NIAGARA ($18.95) Nice freshness right from the get-go, then in sweeps hints of vanilla and white fruits — like apple and peach — with a grapefruit-rind finish.

DOMAINE ST-JACQUES CHARDONNAY RÉSERVE 2015, QUEBEC ($24.25) Known primarily for iced cider these days, Quebec wineries are starting to make noise with “the weed.” Fresh, clean and ultimately drinkable, with time St-Jacques will be a leader with this grape in the province.

EMILIANA ORGANIC VINEYARDS NOVAS CHARDONNAY 2016, CHILE ($17) Fresh and juicy with lots of peach and pear at its core.

ESTERHAZY CHARDONNAY LEITHABERG 2015, AUSTRIA ($19.95) This is a citrus bomb of flavour with lime zest on the finish and a mineral-driven mid. 38 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

MAYCAS DEL LIMARI CHARDONNAY RESERVA ESPECIAL 2015, CHILE ($18.95) Tropical fruits like guava and pineapple with some peach and vanilla taking it to another level.

JEAN LEON 3055 CHARDONNAY 2016, SPAIN ($18.95) I’m pretty sure Spain is not your go-to place for Chardonnay but this one is juicy with apple and pear and balanced by acidity; maybe we should start looking here more often.

MIGUEL TORRES SONS OF PRADES 2014, SPAIN ($32) Another 6-month oaked wine that really turns it up in the flavour department: creamy yet with good acidity, lime zest and stony-minerality. Another surprising Spanish gem.

VENTISQUERO GREY SINGLE BLOCK CHARDONNAY 2015, CHILE ($20) Rich, full-bodied Chardonnay that has a creamy mid-palate along with pineapple, apple, peach and caramel. Surprising notes because 70% of this wine was aged in stainless steel and the other 30% in oak for 12 months, which it explains the acidity’s balancing effect. ×

Every year, the editors of Quench choose the best assemblages, single varietal and other drinks from around the world. Tasters are Gurvinder Bhatia, Ron Liteplo, Tod Stewart, Treve Ring, Rick VanSickle, Sean Wood, Tony Aspler, Gilles Bois and Tim Pawsey.

MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS

2017

GEOFF HARDY K1 TZIMMUKIN 2009, ADELAIDE HILLS, AUSTRALIA ($73) Made from slightly dried Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, reminiscent of Amarone. Clear, very deep garnet. Nose worthy of Cyrano de Bergerac: black cherries nestled in pipe tobacco and sprinkled with vanilla. Full-bodied; packed with very ripe cherry and plum flavours. The epitome of balance, it holds the high alcohol level very well. May last another couple of years, but why wait? Lovely with lamb sausage flavoured with lemon and thyme, and served with a hearty ratatouille. (RL)*

MASI HISTORIC VENETIAN ESTATES FOJANEGHE DEI CONTI BOSSI FEDRIGOTTI 2011, ROSSO VIGNETTI DELLE DOLOMITI IGT ($34.50)

An intriguing blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and a small percentage of Teroldego, the wine shows very dark in the glass, with dark fruit scents revealing distinctive blackcurrant, vanilla and a dash of clove. Intensely concentrated blackberry, blackcurrant and dark chocolate flavours are enveloped in velvety though still firm tannins, with a splash of vanilla evolving into a smoothly integrated, drying finish. (SW)

OROWINES CAN BLAU KIA MONTSANT 2013, DO MONTSANT, SPAIN ($25.50)

Anise, broken stone, wild blackberry lead this perfumed and wild Montsant. One of the great-value wine regions of the

world, Montsant is a horseshoe around Priorat, sharing many of the same soils and all of the grapes. This is driven with the area’s singular llicorella (slate) soils, buzzes with limestone and is grounded with the clay along a tightly mineral and textural palate, perfumed with violets, anise and light peppery spicing. Finishes warm, and yearning for lamb or wild boar. This is a blend of Garnacha, Cariñena and Syrah that has spent 1 year maturing in French oak barrels. (TR)

REICHSGRAF VON KESSELSTATT SCHARZHOFBERGER RIESLING/SPÄTLESE 2015, SAAR, GERMANY ($45)

The steep, south-facing Scharzhofberger vineyard is one of the Saar’s most famous and climatically coolest site. With 6.6 ha, Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt numbers among the largest owners with holdings in the site. Loess, coarse grey and reddish slate (up to 70%) contribute to the characteristic minerality of this site. This striking wine certainly complies, with ample crushed stone, wet slate, honeyed pear, quince, yellow apple, crystalline lemon and earthy, dried herbs filtered throughout. (TR)

CULMINA SAIGNÉE 2016, OKANAGAN ($24)

The blend of this rosé is Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec — another brilliant effort in this style from Culmina. The nose is pretty with notes of strawberry, cherry and mineral made in a delicate, contemplative style. It’s gorgeously dry on the palate with a mix of red berries and subtle herbs. (RV) NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 39

SEA STAR STELLA MARIS 2016, SOUTHERN GULF ISLANDS, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($24)

White flower, honey and slight rose-petal top followed by a crisp palate of lychee and citrus; well-balanced acidity, juicy and lusciously textured with a touch of minerality before a crisp, dry finish. (TP)

BOEKENHOUTSKLOOF THE CHOCOLATE BLOCK 2015, WO WESTERN CAPE, SOUTH AFRICA ($40)

Boekenhoutskloof was established 1776 and today, in the hands of talented maverick winemaker Marc Kent, they are still kicking off great things, like the behemoth that is Chocolate Block, known in markets the world over (thanks to its 500,000 bottles per year). The 2015 Chocolate Block is a blend of Syrah, Grenache Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Viognier —for the first time, this is all Swartland fruit. There’s a greater splash of Grenache than in previous years, which is noticeable up front on the massive florality here (the Grenache was matured in 600 L barrels to retain its fruity aromas and vibrancy). There is also mulberry, brooding black plum and kirsch on the full palate — one smooth and housed by fine, firm tannins. This is a polished wine, but not overtly so, with a textural fruitcake spicing throughout to a dark mocha finish. The wine matures in 1st (all the Cabernet Sauvignon), 2nd and 3rd fill French oak barrels (eight 2,500 L French oak foudres) for 16 months before it undergoes a light egg-white fining and filtration. (TR)

PLAY ESTATE IMPROV 2014, OKANAGAN ($20)

This well-balanced blend of Merlot (70%) and Syrah (30%) sports appealing aromas of red fruit, mocha and vanilla before a well-textured, quite full-bodied palate wrapped in juicy acidity. Easy, well-integrated tannins and toasty notes from 14 months in used French oak. (TP)

OSOYOOS LAROSE LE GRAND VIN 2013, OKANAGAN ($48.95)

Dense purple in colour with a bouquet of cedar, black fruits and vanilla oak. Full-bodied and dry, the black plum and blackcurrant flavours are nuanced with bitter chocolate and finely resolved tannins. (TA)

ERIC TEXIER CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGE VAISON LA ROMAINE 2013, AOC CÔTES DU RHÔNE ($25)

40+-year-old Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault fill the frame of this Côtes du Rhône from naturalist leader and pioneer Eric Texier. Biodynamic principles lead Texier’s intelligent, questioning, terroir-driven philosophy. In La Romaine, the grapes were whole-cluster fermented in cement vats. Black plum leads the mineral-driven palate of the structured, medium-bodied red, with wild strawberry, raspberry and a fragrant redcurrant on the tight core, reflective of the grapes in the blend. Acidity is quenching, and tannins are downy fine and leathery. An alluring mineral-salts entice on the finish. (TR) 40 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

Pinot Noir MEYER FAMILY VINEYARDS REIMER FAMILY VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2013, OKANAGAN ($50)

Elegantly perfumed classic Pinot nose offers enticing scents of strawberry and fine spice. Shifts towards more cherry-like flavours in the mouth with velvety tannins; still somewhat forward acidity, and a light splash of milk chocolate. (SW)

FIVE ROWS CRAFT WINE PINOT NOIR 2014, NIAGARA ($55) This classic Niagara Pinot shows a lighter red colour in the glass with aromas of brambly raspberry, violets, earth, beetroot, savoury cherry, mushrooms and elegant spice notes. It’s tight at this stage but forgiving, with a medium tannic structure, brambly red fruits, mineral notes, complexity and length through the finish. (RV)

VILLA WOLF PINOT NOIR 2014, PFALZ, GERMANY ($15)

Dark red with light ruby reflections. Red berries, soft oaky and earthy notes. Light body, velvety tannins, soft texture, nice fruity taste. Notes of fruit stones appear in the slightly bitter, fresh finish. Drink up with soft cheeses or charcuterie. (GBQc)

NORMAN HARDIE COUNTY PINOT NOIR 2014, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY, ONTARIO ($50)

The king of Prince Edward County seems to be a master of delivering fresh, elegant, flavourful, layered and complex wines while maintaining incredible drinkability. We need to get over the “heavier is better” mentality and this wine goes a long way to help the cause. Remarkably, the alcohol content of this wine is only 10.9%. (GB)

REICHSGRAF’S WOLFGANG MERTES, MONA LOCH, MICHAEL WEBER

Sake NARUTOTAI YAMAHAI TOKUBETSU JUNMAI, JAPAN ($35/720 ML)

Stickie CHÂTEAU DERESZLA TOKAJ ASZÚ 5 PUTTONYOS 2009, TOKAJ-HEGYALJA, HUNGARY ($45.95/500 ML)

Old gold in colour with a honeyed, waxy nose of peaches. Medium-bodied, with a flavour of apricot jam balanced by lively acidity. Rich and full on the palate with great length. (TA)

GARDET EXTRA BRUT 120 ANNIVERSARY NV, FRANCE ($65.67)

A blend of a dozen vintages. Clear, medium-deep gold, with lots of fizzy bubbles. Complex nose featuring yeast, ripe apple, cultured butter, lime and caramel. Creamy mouthfeel; full-bodied, classic and elegant with a long finish. Drink up. (RL)*

TANTALUS BLANC DE NOIR 2014, EAST KELOWNA, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($24)

Beautiful pale pink, lifted strawberry and red fruit aromas with some toasty notes, followed by a creamy palate buoyed by well-balanced acidity and freshness with great length and a lingering wild raspberry finish. (TP)

SPERLING VINEYARDS BRUT RESERVE 2010, OKANAGAN ($50)

Disgorged in 2014, this elegant bubble displays fine, persistent mousse with delicately perfumed floral scent, citrus and green fruit notes. Lemon-citrus and green-apple flavours contrast with creamy brioche leading into a lean, grippy mineral finish. (SW)

Couple things here: Yamahai and Tokubetsu. The first is a brewing method that uses a unique yeast starter (look it up) while the latter means “special” (though what is “special” is rather undefined — typically a higher rice-polish ratio than the category usually employs). On the nose, toasted nuts, melon, cucumber, mild banana and some creamy/lactic “funk” (thanks, Yamahai). Quite dry in the mouth, with herbal, savoury, steamed rice, cocoa and vanilla flavours. (TS)

MIO SPARKLING SAKE, JAPAN ($13/300 ML)

Looking for something different in your bubbles? Try sparkling sake. MIO (named after the Japanese term for iridescent spray-trailing cruise ships) sparkling sake offers red apple, sweet pear, strawberry cream and some earthy/mushroom “out there” aromas and a medium-sweet palate that showcases a delicate fizz highlighting pear and apple nuances. At a mere 5% ABV, it’s a perfect weekend brunch washdown. (TS)

GORIN JUNKO KOSHINO LABEL, JAPAN ($80/720 ML) This is a blended sake with the component parts being Gorin Junmai Daiginjo (45% rice polish with no additional alcohol added) and Gorin Junmai (60% rice polish with no additional alcohol) and with a label designed by Junko Koshino. Slightly earthy on the nose with a trace of mushroom and wet slate, but also with a nice fruity component, thereby showing elements of both sake styles. Quite rich and viscous in the mouth with fruity/nutty notes. A nice match with the pan-seared jumbo scallop with truffle cream sauce. (TS)

HOKKO JUNMAI, JAPAN ($20/720 ML)

Brewed with Hitogotchi rice polished to 70%, it shows distinct banana and pineapple aromas, with more subtle melon/almond/ nougat. At +5 SMV (“sake meter value”), it’s dry and crisp, mildly fruity and elegant. Great with lighter dishes (and worked well with asparagus/lemon/basil risotto). (TS) × NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 41

ST

by Lisa Hoekstra

JO

FOOD CITY

Merely saying “Newfoundland” evokes — for me, anyway — salty sea spray on a rocky shore, distant seagull cries and plates filled with seafood. Once that sensory overload fades, I then think of small towns, heavily accented people welcoming visitors with a wave and offers of food or indecipherable directions. My mental stereotypes are off, though, I can assure you. What Canadians across the country are starting to realize, is that St John’s culinary scene has grown up.

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OHN’S CHINCHED BISTRO www.chinchedbistro.com 5 Bates Hill

Chef Michelle LeBlanc and her husband, Chef Shaun Hussey, have made their mark on the St John’s culinary scene. They opened Chinched Bistro in 2010 to showcase their passion for Newfoundland culture, food and preservation. Their goal is to break assumptions and show the world that Newfoundland has more to offer foodies. “I guess the biggest thing that people have assumed in the past, from my experience, would have been that everybody just thought it was just fish and chips, and Jiggs Dinner sort of things. Those are two totally Newfoundland dishes,” LeBlanc explains. “But in the last five or 10 years, there’s been a huge change in the culinary scene here and the education of the cooks .… There’s been a tremendous amount of farms that have opened and started doing stuff. Just knowledge about product and the overall education of the culinary scene in general has started to slowly eliminate the myth or stigma, if you will.” Chinched Bistro doesn’t have either of those dishes on its menu. Rather, it’s packed with nose-to-tail charcuterie and meats that are finger-licking good. Fish is on the menu; the steamed, pan-fried cod with potato hash is the restaurant’s take on fish and chips. “We do a potato-wrapped cod — a play on fish and chips, if you will,” says LeBlanc. “It’s still deep fried, but instead of doing a straight-up battered fish with French fries, we try to take it to another level.” While the cod is a popular dish, it’s the restaurant’s charcuterie that’s drawing crowds. LeBlanc and Hussey focus on local ingredients and products. “There’s so much; it’s so bountiful,” says LeBlanc. “From sea urchins to berries, to seaweed and plants that are growing, sort of, on the ocean floor and on beaches — it seems silly to have that stuff coming from somewhere else.” They take these local ingredients and apply older cooking methods and traditional techniques. “We do a lot of our dry curing and preserving,” LeBlanc mentions. “The charcuterie program is a huge part of what we do and who we are. So, that’s bottling, pickling — that sort of thing. Just bringing back those traditional methods.” So, when you’re there, order up the charcuterie with a cilantro-jalapeño Margarita to get the full Chinched experience.

DINNER & DRINKS

SALTWATER RESTAURANT

www.saltwaterrestaurant.ca 284 Duckworth Street Chef and owner Serge Stojic transforms local ingredients and products into seafood dishes that look as good as they taste — even if they are a bit on the pricier side. “Our philosophy at Saltwater Restaurant,” explains Stojic, “is that we want every guest to feel like they traded their hard-earned money for an equal value and get the best quality and quantity possible. No one leaves hungry.” Start off your meal with an amuse-bouche to get your taste buds watering, then enjoy one of the appetizers, like the organic steamed Newfoundland Mussels, served up in a Caesar-style sauce. If you’re more of a scallop person, Saltwater’s look, smell and taste scrumptious (and they change the sauce occasionally, so it’ll always be a new treat whenever you go). Main dishes look simple — simply listed by the main protein (Cod, Salmon, Tuna) — but they display a depth of flavour that may surprise you. The Steak, for example, is savoury and distinguished by a brandy and roasted-mushroom jus, accompanied by a mushroom and green-pea ragout. Stojic and his team ensure that their ingredients shine on the plate. “What I love the most about cooking in Newfoundland is all beautiful ingredients that are available to us from the ocean and land,” explains Stojic. “And working with local fishermen, farmers, hunters and foragers to bring the best to every plate.” The culinary scene in St John’s, and throughout Newfoundland, helps Stojic elevate his traditional Newfoundland dishes. “Newfoundland’s culinary scene has changed dramatically in very short period of time,” Stojic says. “World-class chefs and restaurants are all working together; it is very tight community, and the unique thing is that we still cook traditional Newfoundland dishes but with sophisticated flavours and presentations.” A stop at this bright, white and airy restaurant, replete with all the traditional St John’s seafood you could want, is a must. NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 43

FOGO ISLAND INN

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FOGO ISLAND INN RESTAURANT www.fogoislandinn.ca/b/dining 210 Main Road, Joe Batt’s Arm, Fogo Island

Located at the eastern edge of Newfoundland, about six hours away from St John’s — so a bit of a hike — is Fogo Island. This solid-granite mass of land has a population of about 2,700 and one of the most interesting scenic landscapes in Canada. Zita Cobb built Fogo Island Inn and its restaurant to revive her island home and its folklore. Given the critical acclaim received — you only have to scroll down to the bottom of the website to see the list of awards and credits received — she’s done her job well. The building is white, angular and perched on stilts. Just outside the windows, guests can watch the churning waters of the North Atlantic as they enjoy their meal, prepared by Chef Timothy Charles. “We focus on the idea of place and its importance both in the cooking we do and our guest experience,” states Charles. “We continue to employ the power of sense, place and all of its textures as guiding principles in the direction we choose to take. We hope that the guests leave with a feeling of having actually been somewhere.” “Place” is reflected in the fare served at the restaurant. The menu is seasonally driven and ingredients are sourced as locally as possible. “Deciding what is ‘local’ is challenging as I could say that something is local because it is from Newfoundland but the distance between Fogo Island and St John’s is almost that of Paris and London,” Charles says. “We buy from Fogo Island first, Newfoundland second, Atlantic Canada third, Eastern Canada and the U.S. Eastern Seaboard fourth and onward. This keeps our spending focused close to home, which hopefully nurtures growth while giving our guests the best products we can find.” Dinner starts off with an amuse-bouche and bread, followed by a starter, main and dessert. The menu changes almost daily, incorporating traditional Newfoundland dishes that tourists and visitors can try, knowing that they will have a burst of delicious flavours. Salted cod, rabbit omelettes and moose meat all make an appearance on the menu when the seasons align. “The seasonality is inspiring,” Charles states. “Berry season brings everyone out onto the hills with their buckets; during the food fishery, you will see boats zipping out of the harbour and back in with cod; in moose season, you will see carcasses hanging in sheds or being hauled in the pans of pickup trucks; and in turr season, you will find the fine down flying about in the wind after the boats land and the birds are plucked.” A visit to Fogo Island Inn and its restaurant will always be a breath of fresh (salttinged) air, worth revisiting time and time again.

BERNARD STANLEY GASTROPUB

www.bernardstanleygastropub.com 223 Duckworth Street Brunch, daily specials, happy hour and late-night weekends are all accentuated by seasonal cocktails, good food and Quidi Vidi beer on tap. This venture by Chef Chris Herritt is a must-visit for casual pub fare.

THE RELUCTANT CHEF

www.thereluctantchef.ca 290 Duckworth Street Owner Anthony Butt, the original Reluctant Chef, works with Chef Jeremiah Stafford and Sommelier Scott Cowan to provide locals and tourists alike with an extensive tasting menu paired with great Canadian wines. The five-course tasting menu changes every month to reflect local seasonal ingredients available from land and sea. If you’re looking for bistro fare, The Brasserie (marketed as “Old-world Parisian charm meets approachable luxury”) has an à-la-carte menu filled with French bistro classics — including a daily vegetarian option. When you’re done your meal, whichever you choose, head over to The Vinyl Room, a speakeasy-style lounge with small plates (if you’re still hungry), hand-made artisan cocktails, wines and craft beer.

RAYMONDS RESTAURANT

www.raymondsrestaurant.com 95 Water Street Two Jeremys came together to start Raymonds Restaurant: Head Chef Jeremy Charles, and Manager and Sommelier Jeremy Bonia. The building is classic Newfoundland and Labrador architecture; it was built in 1915 to overlook St John’s harbour and features high ceilings, regal lines and austere, 18th-century decor. Sitting down to a meal here is an experience like no other. The menu only adds to that unique experience. Each dish is beautifully plated and made with locally caught, farmed and foraged ingredients. You can choose from three-, five- or seven-course meals. The season plays a huge role in what’s served up each night. In the summer, you’ll find lighter options like pasta, carrot salad or carpaccio to start, with cod, pork or lobster as your main, and strawberries and rhubarb on the dessert menu. In the winter, the restaurant provides heftier, heartier fare, like red surf clams with lardo, a crisped cracker and Canadian caviar, followed by pasta with moose ragout and blood sausage.

MALLARD COTTAGE

www.mallardcottage.ca 8 Barrows Road Cozy up for a night of authentic Newfoundland hospitality at the The Inn by Mallard Cottage and its restaurant, led by Chef and Innkeeper, Todd Perrin.

ADELAIDE OYSTER HOUSE

334 Water Street What’s a stop in St John’s without visiting an oyster house? The Adelaide Oyster House is popular with visitors and locals alike, offering up small plates packed with flavour. NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 45

MUST VISIT MICROBREWERIES & DISTILLERIES QUIDI VIDI BREWING COMPANY www.quidividibrewery.ca 35 Barrows Road

One of the only craft breweries in St John’s, Quidi Vidi Brewing makes craft beers with Canadian ingredients and Newfoundland charm. “Unfortunately, Newfoundland doesn’t grow many of the ingredients that go into making beer,” states Marketing Manager Justin Fong. “But most of our ingredients come from Canada, so we’re still trying to keep it as close to home as possible!” Since the brewery was established in 1996, it’s worked to promote the local craft drink industry. “Our main focus is to make great beer and continue to lead the Newfoundland craft scene as it grows,” says Fong. They began focusing on draft beers over the last few years, and as a result, have seen an increase in Newfoundland draft beer sales (by approximately 25 percent). The beer lineup includes eight brands, each suited to a different taste profile within the beer industry. For example, Iceberg Beer is made with water “harvested” from Newfoundland’s icebergs; it’s a light lager for those who prefer a refreshing brew with very little aftertaste. 1892 Traditional Ale, made to commemorate the year of the great fire in St John’s, is a full-bodied, reddish ale for “those who prefer European-style beers with substantial flavour.” You can try these beers, or the other options, at the brewery in Quidi Vidi Village (referred to as “The Gut” by locals). It’s a rustic, historic fishing village perfect for escaping the busy-ness of the city. “Newfoundland is a great place if you love the outdoors,” Fong states. “It’s technically a city but there’s so much nature less than five minutes’ drive away from downtown!” And the opendoor policy at Quidi Vidi means you’ll always be welcome to drop by for a tasting.

PORT REXTON BREWING

www.portrextonbrewing.com 6 Ship Cove Rd, Port Rexton This brewery can be found three hours away from St John’s in the quaint town of Port Rexton, which sits at the start of Ship Cove. Sip and sample the beers — which range from an American-style West Coast IPA (Horse Chops) to a robust porter (T-Rex) — while you enjoy the scenery; or visit for one of their game nights, like Trivia Thursdays. 46 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

NEWFOUNDLAND DISTILLERY CO.

www.thenewfoundlanddistillery.com 97 Conception Bay Highway, Clarke’s Beach This small craft distillery is dedicated to using local ingredients and making the finest spirits. The brand is growing and expanding throughout the country. The distillery recently released an Aquavit (Scandinavian-style whisky) that has hints of charred juniper, local peat and a surprising smoothness.

YELLOWBELLY BREWERY & PUBLIC HOUSE

www.yellowbellybrewery.com 288 Water Street This is Newfoundland’s only gastropub. But if that isn’t a reason to put it on your must-see list, then maybe the fact that the pub is called “The Underbelly” will help convince you. The beer list is filled with craft brews while the menu features seafood creations alongside wood-fired oven dishes.

Bakeries FIXED COFFEE AND BAKING

www.fixedcoffee.com 183 Duckworth Street Fixed Coffee’s direct-trade, single-origin coffee is the perfect pickme-up before you head out for a day of sightseeing or perhaps a brief sit down in the midst of your adventures. Wholesome breads, bagels and pastries are made every morning so you can enjoy them fresh from the oven.

ROCKET BAKERY AND FRESH FOOD

www.rocketfood.ca 272 Water Street A bustling, cozy community hub serving up French-influenced baked goods in a beautiful vintage building. Buy some supplies to keep you fed throughout the day, or sit down to enjoy a coffee and croissant. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, plan ahead and order one of the signature cakes.

MORE TO SEE THE ROOMS

www.therooms.ca 9 Bonaventure Avenue Newfoundland and Labrador’s largest public cultural space showcases artifacts, art, historical records and more. To top it off, the building itself represents Newfoundland’s cultural history — the design mirrors the fishing rooms families once used to prepare their catches.

Festivals DEVOUR! FOOD & FILM WEEKEND

www.fogoislandinn.ca/b/event/ devour-food-film-weekend November 3 to 5, Fogo Island Inn Cinephiles and foodies (and everyone in between) gather at Fogo Island Inn for a curated food-film pairing of six short films and a six-course meal.

FISH, FUN & FOLK FESTIVAL

www.fishfunfolkfestival.com Every July since 1980, Twillingate local artists display their crafts as festivalgoers enjoy everything Twillingate has to offer. The weeklong event features an old-fashioned kitchen party, music, fireworks, scavenger hunts, concerts, parades and so much more.

NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR FOLK FESTIVAL

www.nlfolk.com/newfoundlandlabrador-folk-festival/ August 2018, St John’s The province’s premiere annual folk-related cultural event is not to be missed. Each year their lineup includes local, national and international artists — Sharon & Bram (of Sharon, Lois & Bram fame) were headliners at the 2017 festival this past August. × NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 47

BOUQUET GARNI BY NANCY JOHNSON

ALL AROUND THE WORLD

I GREW UP IN AN IRISH-ITALIAN HOUSEHOLD. My mother claimed her Irish Catholic family came from County Mayo on the west coast of Ireland, where Croagh Patrick, a 764-metre mountain, looms. The mountain is a pilgrimage site honouring St Patrick, who is believed to have fasted and prayed on its summit. My dad emigrated from Fiuggi, Italy at the tender age of 9, leaving behind his hometown, a medieval city that lies about an hour southeast of Rome in the Lazio region. Famous for its Acqua di Fiuggi mineral water, the small city also boasts its own Catholic patron saint — San Biagio, aka St Blaise — who in 1298 saved the city from a foreign attack by conjuring the illusion of Fiuggi in flames, leading the marauders to abandon their attack, believing the town had already been sacked. For many years, I thought it was all settled — I’m Irish and Italian. But wait. What? I’m British? And Turkish? And Spanish? And European Jewish? And Ulster Irish from Northern Ireland? Yep, I had my DNA analyzed through Ancestry.com. It’s raised more questions than answers, but it’s a fascinating map into the mystery of who my ancestors were. My dad always said we were descended from the Etruscans, the ancient civilization that settled Tuscany. He claimed our family name — Lucarelli — is Tuscan; there is even a small town in Tuscany called Lucarelli. There is some evidence the Etruscans may have been Turkish; even St Blaise was said to be born in an area that is now Turkey. And what of my Jewish heritage? Who are the Jewish people in my tribe, and why did our Jewish heritage end? Why am I Spanish? I know the ancient Romans invaded Spain countless times; could that be the key? Then again, members of the beleaguered Spanish Armada washed onto Ireland’s shores in 1588, starving and ragged. Did one of my 48 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

beautiful, brave and somewhat saucy great-grandmothers save a dark and handsome Spanish sailor — or is that just a romantic novel in my head waiting to happen? Why did my ancestors meander from Ulster to County Mayo, before sailing for America during the Great Potato Famine of the 19th century, bringing with them a bit of British DNA, which makes me feel an awful lot closer to The Beatles? I came into this world interested in people (fun fact: “people” is a word from the mysterious Etruscan language). From the time I was three years old, I remember thinking that every person has a story — and I wanted to know their stories. I believe that’s why I became a writer. Now I have a beautiful map of my ancestry, with a rich tapestry of time woven into it. I may never know all of the map’s stories, but I know one thing for sure — I have already learned from them. In celebration of my ancestry, here are some recipes from around the world.

ROASTED PATATAS BRAVAS

The Spanish explorers brought potatoes from Peru to Europe in the 16th century. This dish is traditionally deep-fried and served as a tapa, or appetizer. Here, the potatoes are roasted. For a faster roasting time, parboil the potatoes before roasting. I actually prefer Spanish olive oil to all the others — it has a buttery flavour with a milder, less bitter aftertaste. You can also make the bravas sauce with smoked Spanish paprika. If you’d like, add diced roasted tomatoes and a fresh-minced parsley garnish. For a tapas presentation, arrange the potatoes on a platter with olives, cheese, sliced toasted artisan bread, and jamón serrano (dry-cured Spanish ham).

× Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on quench.me/recipes/

6 1/4 2 3/4 2 1 2

baking potatoes, skin on, cut into 1-inch cubes cup Spanish extra virgin olive oil cloves garlic, minced cup mayonnaise dashes hot sauce, such as Tabasco tsp sweet Spanish paprika Salt and pepper, to taste tbsp water

1. Preheat oven to 375˚F. 2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Arrange pota-

toes on baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt. Roast 30 minutes or until tender and browned. Add half the garlic in the last 10 minutes. 3. In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise, hot sauce, paprika, the rest of the garlic, salt and pepper. Stir in water until mixture is smooth. Transfer potatoes to serving plate. Drizzle with sauce. MATCH: Serve with a dry sparkling Spanish Cava.

TURKISH RICE PILAF WITH PISTACHIOS

SERVES 4 Oddly enough, when I was in my 20s, my mode of exercise was Turkish bellydance. And stranger yet, my beautiful niece Jackie also practices Turkish bellydance. We both feel an affinity for the music and the dance.

1 tbsp butter 1 tsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 tsp kosher salt 2 cups long-grain rice 1/4 cup unsalted pistachios, chopped 1 pinch saffron, steeped in about 1 cup hot water 2 1/2 cups chicken stock 1 large bay leaf 1/2 cup frozen peas 1/4 cup golden raisins 4. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter with the oil over

low heat. Stir in onion and salt. Cook the onions until translucent, about 3 minutes. Increase heat to medium and add rice and pistachios. 5. Cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add saffron and its water, the stock and bay leaf. Increase heat to high and bring to boil. Add peas and raisins. 6. Lower heat to medium-low and cook, covered, 15 minutes or until rice is tender. Remove bay leaf before serving. MATCH: Serve with chicken kebabs and a German or Niagara Gewürtztraminer.

ROASTED RACKS OF LAMB

SERVES 4 My mother accompanied my dad to Italy in 1972. She recounted a day unlike any other, when she climbed into the hills to choose a lamb for dinner from an Italian shepherd. This is the roast she cooked with my dad’s aunt and cousins. It must be the British in me; I can’t have lamb without mint jelly. This is a lovely holiday dinner for those festive evenings with friends. Salut!

2 racks of lamb Extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste Garlic cloves, minced, to taste Fresh Italian herbs, such as oregano, rosemary and basil, minced Mint jelly, optional 1. Preheat oven to 375˚F. 2. Pat racks dry. Rub racks with olive oil. Season with salt and

pepper. Pat on garlic and herbs. Roast, uncovered, rib sides down, for 40 minutes or until instant-read thermometer reads 135˚F degrees for medium-rare. 3. Let stand 10 minutes. Cut each rack into chops. Serve with mint jelly, if desired. MATCH: Open a Bordeaux, one of my all-time favourite wines.

CAROLE GREENSPAN’S BRISKET

SERVES 6 Hanukkah is coming. I have confessed to the Greenspans, my dearest Jewish friends (and possibly my relatives), that I will never give up bacon. Still, here is an awesome brisket recipe the Greenspan family very generously gave to me. One of my Jewish friends has said to me: So be a Jew who eats bacon. I like that. Make this brisket a day before so that you can remove the fat.

5 1 3 1 1 1 1 2

lb beef brisket large onion, sliced cloves garlic, chopped large carrot, cut into chunks tbsp salt tbsp sweet paprika cup old-fashioned chili sauce, such as Heinz cups ginger ale

1. Preheat oven to 325˚F. 2. Place all items in a Dutch oven. Bake, covered, for 5 hours.

Add water as needed. 3. Refrigerate. To reheat: Preheat oven to 350˚F. Remove all hardened fat from brisket. Slice brisket. Pour defatted sauce over the brisket. Cover and reheat for 45 minutes. ×

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NOTED DOMAINE DU RIDGE VENT D’OUEST 2016, ST-ARMAND, QUÉBEC ($15) Very pale yellow. Engaging nose of peach/pear, honey and herbs. Fresh acidity, clean fruity taste, rich and slightly fat texture in the balanced mid-palate. Nice round finish. The sometimes-harsh Québec climate was milder in 2016; the resulting wines are better than ever. (GBQc)

BLUE GROUSE QUILL PINOT GRIS 2016, COWICHAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($19)

LUCE DELLA VITE LUCE 2013, IGT TOSCANA, ITALY ($114.25)

Dark ruby-purplish rim. Blackberries, smoke, soft spices. Supple when it first hits your palate, its full and tight mid-palate has a dense core. The noticeable acidity will help it evolve favourably for many years to come. (GBQc)

All stainless-steel fermented. Appealing aromas of apple and stone fruit before a lively and well-balanced palate, accentuated by juicy acidity with peach, apricot and citrus notes through a lingering close. (TP)

MONTBLANC 362 BRUT CAVA RESERVA NV, SPAIN ($16.83)

Clear medium-deep yellow with lots of bubbles. Medium-intensity nose of McIntosh apple, sourdough toast and treacle toffee. Medium-bodied with simple apple and lemon flavours. Drink up. (RL)*

MACKINNON BROTHERS 8 MAN ENGLISH PALE ALE, ONTARIO ($2.85/473 ML)

Brewed by 2 brothers in their brewhouse on the family farm outside of Kingston, this English pale ale is an exercise in elegance. Digestive biscuit and graham-cracker-like malts mingle with lilac florals on a medium-light body that balances the malt sweetness with a medium bitterness to dry out the finish. It is hefty enough to match hearty winter dishes like roasted pork, chili and beef stew. (CL)

SUMMERHILL CIPES BRUT ROSÉ NV, OKANAGAN ($30)

Pretty medium pink in the glass, fine bubbles and a persistent mousse with vibrant aromas of strawberry and cherry before a quite vinous, very definite Pinot Noir palate. Cranberry and dark cherry notes and a touch of sweetness in the finish. (TP)

VANESSA VINEYARDS MERLOT 2014, SIMILKAMEEN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($34.99)

Brimming with red fruit and raspberry plus earthy and sage hints, with a luscious but well-structured palate of juicy raspberry, mulberry and mocha, underpinned by a wicked streak of Similkameen minerality. Raisin, pepper and spice persisting on the mid-palate through a savoury edged ending. (TP)

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CHAPMAN GROVE CABERNET/ MERLOT 2011, MARGARET RIVER, AUSTRALIA ($23.50)

Clear medium-deep garnet, beginning to brown. Mature nose of vanilla, leather, varnish. Medium-bodied; tastes like a Bordeaux claret transported to Australia: stewed red berries, more vanilla, green herbs and spice. Drink up. (RL)*

CHÂTEAU PLAISANCE 2011, BORDEAUX, FRANCE ($19.95)

Dense purple colour; cedary, toasty, blackcurrant bouquet. Medium-bodied, dry, lovely mouthfeel with cherry and plum flavours, ripe tannins, well-balanced and ready for drinking. (TA)

CURVOS LOUREIRO VINHO VERDE 2016, VINHO VERDE, PORTUGAL ($12.95)

Almond and citrus-peel bouquet with a mineral note; light-bodied with a faint spritz; crisply dry with lemon and green melon flavours. A long, fresh finish. Good value. (TA)

× Find a collection of tasting notes for wine, beer and spirits at quench.me/thenotes/

Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Our scores are based on the wine's quality as well as price point. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Carefully study the commentaries to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Treve Ring, Tim Pawsey, Silvana Lau and Jonathan Smithe. QUENCH USES THE 100-POINT SCALE 95-100 = Exceptional 90-94 = Excellent 85-89 = Very good

SPARKLING 92 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES BLANC DE BLANCS 2014, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($32.95)

Wow! Just wow! An absolute beauty with toast, honey, flowers, yeast, white peach, apple and cream. Full in the mouth; there is good mousse and a superb finale. Perfect for celebrating the holiday season. (ES)

92 HENRY OF PELHAM CUVÉE CATHARINE ESTATE CARTE BLANCHE BLANC DE BLANC 2012, NIAGARA ($45)

80-84 = Good 75-79 = Acceptable 70 & under = Below average *Available through wine clubs

89 CHAMPAGNE MARIE DEMETS TRADITION BRUT NV, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($51)

The Demets family has been growing vines in Gyé-sur-Seine in the heart of the Côte des Bar since the 1950s. In the early 1970s, they started to think of releasing their own wines, which was a dream realized in 1987, their first vintage. Entirely Pinot Noir, this spent 2 years on the lees and has 9 g/l dosage. Floral redcurrant and cherry fills this expansive and generous fizz, based on a lightly toasted palate, and seasoned with wild blackberry and hawthorne. The texture is a tad rustic, calling out for lighter pork or duck dishes. (TR)

Made in the traditional method from 100% Chardonnay with secondary fermentation in bottle followed by a further 60 months of aging on the lees. It shows a rich golden colour in the glass with a nose of brioche, lemon curd, fresh-baked bread, baked apple, toast and mineral. It has an energetic mousse with lovely toasty fresh flavours of apple, citrus, pear, lemon and vanilla toast. (RV)

89 DRAPPIER BLANC DE BLANCS NV, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($60)

90 SPERLING VINEYARDS SPARKLING BRUT 2011, OKANAGAN ($42)

Appealing and immensely drinkable. Fresh and vibrant with soft, lively bubbles. Floral, minerally, slightly tart, crunchy green apple, lightly herbaceous and a pleasant flavour of stone fruits on the finish. Made from 100% Ortrugo. Great as an aperitivo with salumi and fritto misto. (GB)

100% Pinot Blanc, this charming sparkler is scented with spring flowers with notes of yellow and green fruit. Shows enticing creamy freshness on the palate, with chalky mineral and refreshing, but not overbearing acidity. (SW)

A fine champers with honey, mushroom, toast, chalk, minerals and green apple built on a crisp frame with small pinpoint bubbles carrying the finale. (ES)

88 MOSSI 1558 CONTRO TEMPO SPUMANTE BRUT 2016, ORTRUGO DEI COLLI PIACENTINI DOC, EMILIA-ROMAGNA, ITALY ($24)

87 MOLTÓ NEGRE CAVA BRUT, SPAIN ($30)

Pouring a pale blush, this Cava is a blend of Xarel-lo, Parellada and Trepat. Soft and doughy on the palate, with brioche, yellow apple, strawberry and pear blossoms. Zippy, detailed finish and a moderate (6g/l) dosage. Nice weight and density for its 11.5%. (TR)

86 FRESITA BLUEBERRY AND RASPBERRY, CHILE ($16)

As the name announces, this is a blend of blueberry and raspberry mixed with sparkling wine, and the next gen from the super popular original, Fresita Strawberry. Low alcohol (8%), sweet (55 g/l) and fruity (aforementioned), this is sure to be a winner among the folks that want this sort of sparkling fruit wine. The wine part of that, if you’re curious, is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat and Alicante Bouschet. A brown sugar caramel carries out the fizzy finish. Brunch? Dessert? Baby showers? Here is your sparkle. (TR)

WHITE ARGENTINA 90 EL ESTECO CICLOS TORRONTÈS 2016, CALCHAQUÍ VALLEY ($16.95)

A wine of great charm and elegance for the price. Very pale lime in colour, it has NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 51

NOTED an intense nose of lavender and orange; light- to medium-bodied palate, it’s dry and perfumed with lychee and melon flavours. Great value (TA)

88 GRAFFIGNA PINOT GRIGIO 2016, SAN JUAN ($12.95)

A well-priced wine for Pinot Grigio fans. Pale straw in colour with a minerally, peach-pit nose; medium-bodied and dry, with flavours of white peach and lemony acidity. (TA)

AUSTRIA 88 ESTERHÁZY LEITHABERG DAC CHARDONNAY 2015, BURGENLAND ($19.95) Honey, sweet apple, spice, mineral, white flowers and cream are present on a medium-body frame. Very good length and nice little discovery from Austria. (ES)

CANADA 94 SPERLING VINEYARDS OLD VINES RIESLING 2013, OKANAGAN ($35)

Classic Riesling nose unfolds intense lemon citrus, floral scents and developing petrol character. Lemon citrus, mineral and elegantly balanced acidity combine harmoniously on the palate in this delicate, polished and satisfying wine. (SW)

93 TWO SISTERS CHARDONNAY 2016, NIAGARA ($54)

Sourced from the oldest Chardonnay vines in Ontario. The style is seductive, vivacious and rich with notes of poached pear, baked apple, vanilla toast, sublime minerality and spice notes. It has weight and viscosity on the palate with a leesy presentation to go with orchard fruits, flinty minerality, toasted spice and vanilla, and a finish that goes on forever. (RV)

92 NOBLE RIDGE RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2013, OKANAGAN ($30)

Fermented in small batches, this is a refined Chardonnay reminiscent of Burgundian style, showing ripe citrus and

subtle spice with nutty and floral notes on the nose. A little leaner on the palate than the opulent nose suggests, with crisp acidity, grippy mineral and deft overall balance. Lingering notes of discreet vanilla oakiness on the finish. (SW)

92 WESTCOTT VINEYARDS LENKO OLD VINE CHARDONNAY 2014, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($32.95)

Made from Ontario’s oldest Chardonnay vines, which were planted back in the 1950s. Golden colour with impressive richness and a good amount of oak as support. Vanilla, toast, pineapple, honey, baking spice, golden apple and cream are in play. Excellent length with bright acidity and long aftertaste. (ES)

92 TANTALUS VINEYARDS OLD VINES RIESLING 2014, OKANAGAN ($35)

Delicate floral and fine lemon-citrus entry, with a splash of lime mid-palate, brisk acidity and a light touch of petrol. Fine, ageworthy Riesling showing classic restraint, finishing just off-dry. (SW)

91 BLUE MOUNTAIN PINOT BLANC 2016, OKANAGAN FALLS ($18)

For added weight, about 45% of the wine goes into nearly neutral French barrels, the rest in stainless steel. Hand-picked, wild-yeast fermented, up-front floral and orchard notes. Peach, melon and gentle citrus, wrapped in juicy acidity and generous mouthfeel. A very elegant expression of the variety. (TP)

91 TOWNSHIP 7 MUSCAT 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($18.99)

From Rock Pocket Vineyard in Oliver, a distinctly chalky and floral top is followed by generous but elegant tropical notes of orange and lychee with a touch of ginger spice before a lengthy and luscious clean finish. (TP)

91 TINHORN CREEK 2 BENCH WHITE 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($19.99)

A flagship Okanagan blend; up-front floral, tropical and stone-fruit notes precede a creamy palate with elegant,

52 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

textured mouthfeel and a touch of wild herbs before a fresh, lingering finish. Superb value. (TP)

91 CLOS DU SOLEIL CAPELLA, SIMILKAMEEN ($27)

Classic Bordeaux style blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon yields lifted citrus and floral notes followed by a generous but elegant palate of honey, peach and other stone fruit. Firm structure underpinned by an assertive mineral streak through a zesty finish. (TP)

91 LIQUIDITY VIOGNIER 2016, OKANAGAN ($28.75)

Perfumed tropical flowers with ripe, honeyed stone fruit on the nose transition seamlessly to a melange of ripe peach and apricot with balancing acidity and grippy mineral in the mouth. A fine, polished Viognier. (SW)

91 TAWSE ROBYN’S BLOCK CHARDONNAY 2013, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($35.80)

Another excellent Robyn’s Block Chardonnay. Only 12% alcohol, but there is depth and elegance combined. Vanilla, sweet apple, cream, fig, banana, white flower, earth and mineral are all wrapped together. Fine length. (ES)

91 NIGHTHAWK VINEYARDS LATE HARVEST GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2016, OKANAGAN ($46)

Opens with elegant floral fragrance together with complex honeyed citrus scents. Delicate honeyed citrus themes play through the palate, showing some orange character with lingering honeyed and spicy notes. (SW)

91 CHECKMATE SUNSET VINEYARD KNIGHT’S CHALLENGE 2015, BLACK SAGE BENCH ($85) Initial hints of orchard and stone fruit followed by apple and pear notes building on the mid-palate to a pleasantly fleshy mouthfeel, wrapped in firm but elegant acidity with mineral hints and leesy textures through a lengthy close. Wild ferment with 17 months in new and used French oak. (TP)

90 EVOLVE PINOT BLANC 2016, OKANAGAN ($15.99)

Lifted orchard fruits of apple, peach and pear precede a fresh palate of crisp apple, melon and some tropical hints supported by moderate acidity. (TP)

90 SEE YA LATER RANCH PINOT GRIS 2016, OKANAGAN ($16.99)

Pretty pale salmon in the glass, showing up-front stone fruit, peach and orchard notes before a clean and lively palate. Fleshed out with a little neutral oak, hints of pear and quince underpinned by juicy acidity through a balanced, fresh finish. (TP)

90 BLUE GROUSE QUILL DRY WHITE 2014, BC ($18)

Mainly Pinot Blanc and Pinot Auxerrois “cocktail” blend, with a splash of Pinot Gris and Müller Thurgau, plus another splash of Siegerrebe, Gewürz and Sauv Blanc. Up-front floral notes plus a hint of smoke precede a well-balanced palate of stone fruit and melon plus a steely edge from mineral undertones. (TP)

90 LIBER UNWOODED CHARDONNAY 2016, SIMILKAMEEN, BC ($18)

Up-front tropical aromas precede a wellstructured palate with quince, lemon and grapefruit notes. Generous mouthfeel underpinned by a keen mineral streak with good length and acidity. (TP)

90 REIF ESTATE WINERY GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2015, NIAGARA RIVER ($19.95)

Alsace meets Canada. The juice spent 24 hours in contact with its skins to give more flavour and aroma. Turkish delight is the driving force here with honey, peach, spice, mango and cream weaving in. Long finale and off-dry, so serve with Peking duck or chili chicken. (ES)

90 ROCKWAY VINEYARDS SMALL LOT BLOCK 150-183 RIESLING 2015, NIAGARA ($20)

This is a tight, lean Riesling that opens up to a dynamic and earthy nose of grapefruit, reductive minerals and a deep dive on salinity; like an ocean breeze, very complex. It has firm acidity, a tart range of citrus fruit, lanolin, fuzzy peach and subtle minerality. (RV)

90 ROSEHALL RUN HUNGRY POINT UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2016, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($20) Pure, unadulterated County Chardonnay with a fresh nose of apple, pear and some tropical fruit notes. Such purity on the palate with clean, fresh flavours that combine crisp apple, pear and minerals though a vibrant finish. (RV)

90 TINHORN CREEK OLDFIELD RESERVE 2BENCH WHITE 2016, OKANAGAN ($20)

The nose is fresh and lively with a range of tropical fruits, lime, peach, lemon, subtle herbs and spice. It’s juicy and ripe on the palate with flavours of peach cobbler, tropical notes, citrus accents and underlying herbs, all delivered with mouthwatering acidity on the finish. (RV)

90 WILD GOOSE VINEYARDS GOD’S MOUNTAIN RIESLING 2016, OKANAGAN ($21)

Elegant Riesling varietal nose displays intense aromatic citrus and mineral. Similar themes play through in the mouth, finishing crisply off-dry with striking mineral grip. (SW)

90 LIBER SAUVIGNON BLANC SÉMILLON 2016, SIMILKAMEEN ($22)

This organic vineyard is situated on the original and very first organic farm in the now-widely-organic Similkameen Valley. Forward juicy and grassy notes with stone and orchard-fruit aromas. Lively and fresh on the fleshy palate with peach, apricot and citrus notes through a zesty close. Pascal Madevon, ex Osoyoos Larose and Culmina consults. (TP)

90 TANTALUS VINEYARDS RIESLING 2016, OKANAGAN ($23)

A little shy on the nose, but nonetheless a very sound pure-varietal Riesling presenting lemon and lime flavours, with bright acidity and firm mineral offset by an attractive creaminess in the mouth. Finishes slightly off-dry. (SW)

90 8TH GENERATION VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY BARRIQUE 2016, OKANAGAN ($23.10)

Barrel fermented, then aged on the lees in stainless tanks. This wine presents very pure citrus with a splash of grapefruit and subtle floral scents. Mellow and creamy

on the palate, with contrasting mineral grip and bright acidity, it exemplifies fine Okanagan Chardonnay. (SW)

90 ROSEHALL RUN HUNGRY POINT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($25)

A much-different expression of savvy with aromas of sweet grass, fresh-cut hay, grapefruit, citrus, passion fruit and spice. It’s juicy and round on the palate with ripe pear, citrus and spice notes. More elegant than fresh. (RV)

90 STAG’S HOLLOW WINERY SHUTTLEWORTH CREEK VINEYARD ALBARIÑO 2016, OKANAGAN ($25)

Leads off with floral perfume, yellow fruit and a whiff of spice on the nose. Ripe yellow fruit flavours showing tropical fruit, a touch of banana, fine mineral and lively acidity. A very worthy New World translation of the original Spanish variety. (SW)

90 LIQUIDITY ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2015, OKANAGAN ($29.90) 100% barrel-fermented with 17% new French oak. Opens with floral and ripe citrus scents and creamy lemon citrus and hazelnut with a touch of vanilla on the palate. Deftly balanced, it finishes with stony mineral, and a splash of vanilla cream. (SW)

89 LIBER HELLO SUNSHINE 2016, SIMILKAMEEN ($17)

This blend invites with floral and stone fruit aromas before a lively, refreshing palate with citrus and melon notes with a clean finish. (TP)

89 ROCKWAY VINEYARDS SMALL LOT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, NIAGARA ($17)

A lovely nose of grapefruit, herbs, lime and passion fruit. It’s perfectly dry in a lean style that shows grassy notes, full-on herbs, lime, grapefruit and a refreshing finish. Nice job here. (RV)

89 REIF ESTATE WINERY KERNER RESERVE 2016, NIAGARA RIVER ($18.95)

Kerner is an aromatic white grape that is a crossing between Riesling and a red grape called Trollinger. Huge peach, honeysuckle, lime, sweet apple and spice. Off-dry and ideally suited for sushi. (ES) NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 53

NOTED 89 KRAZE LEGZ SKAHA VINEYARD PINOT BLANC 2016, OKANAGAN ($21)

Very pure citrus and green fruit scents persist with the same themes on the palate, supported by crisp acidity and unusual minerality, imparted by the fossilized sandstone terroir. (SW)

89 TIME RIESLING 2016, KELOWNA EAST BENCH ($23)

Hints of bruised apple and some mineral notes on the nose, before a slightly tart citrus and green apple palate with mineral hints, defined by brisk acidity and a zesty finish. (TP)

89 WILD GOOSE VINEYARDS MYSTIC RIVER VINEYARDS GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2016, OKANAGAN ($23)

Opens with aromatic lilac, rose petal and peppery spice. Attractive lemon-citrus flavours supported by good mineral grip and lingering fruit and spice on the finish. (SW)

89 MEYER FAMILY VINEYARDS OLD MAIN ROAD VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2016, OKANAGAN ($28) Chablis-inspired, this one reveals distinctive pure citrus character with racy acidity, gravelly mineral and a touch of barley sugar sweetness on the silky finish. (SW)

88 SEE YA LATER RANCH RIESLING 2016, OKANAGAN ($16.99)

Varietally correct, more fruit-forward style defined by soft acidity with forward citrus aroma. Followed by easy-sipping stone fruit and citrus flavours over quiet acidity. (TP)

88 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES RIESLING OLD VINES, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($17.95)

Mineral, lime, apple, white peach, honey, flowers are all present in this taut Riesling. There is a dash of residual sugar, but with all the brisk acidity, it comes across as a dry wine. Pair with choucroute garnie or freshwater fish. (ES)

88 WILD GOOSE VINEYARDS PINOT GRIS 2016, OKANAGAN ($19) Fine aromatic floral and green fruit scents lead the way for rounded,

mouth-filling flavours of ripe pear and firm mineral with a touch of residual sweetness. Easy-drinking, uncomplicated style. (SW)

88 NOBLE RIDGE PINOT GRIGIO 2015, OKANAGAN ($20)

Offers clean green orchard fruit with citrus, light bitter almond, a light sensation of sweetness and great minerality. Gently rounded, displaying simple elegance with distinctive regional character. (SW)

88 LIQUIDITY PINOT GRIS 2016, OKANAGAN ($20.70)

Offers floral scents with piquant stone fruit and a touch of lychee on the nose with peach, apricot and gravelly mineral in the mouth. Finishes with a light impression of lychee. (SW)

87 13TH STREET WINERY BURGER BLEND RIESLING/PINOT GRIGIO 2016, NIAGARA ($13.95) Aromatic; there is peach, fresh flowers, honey, lime and citrus on the nose; this meets up with notes of nectarine and orange on the palate. Very good length, off-dry and 11.5% alcohol. (ES)

87 DOMAINE DE L’ORPAILLEUR BLANC 2015, QUÉBEC ($15)

Pale yellow. Faint nose with notes of citrus, hints of white flowers. Light body, simple taste in the pleasant and round mid-palate. Nice finish with fruity pear notes. Drink up. (GBQc)

87 WILD GOOSE VINEYARDS RIESLING 2016, OKANAGAN ($19)

Offers good varietal floral, citrus and mineral character finishing in the off-dry German style. Crowd-pleasing, popular style wine. (SW)

86 COTEAU ROUGEMONT VERSANT BLANC 2015, ROUGEMONT, QUÉBEC ($14.30)

Yellow with orange reflections. Intense nose of pear, exotic fruits, honey and struck matches. Slightly tingling acidity and a little sweet in the ripe and fruity mid-palate. Intense finish. It remains rustic in its overall character. (GBQc)

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86 SPRUCEWOOD SHORES SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, ONTARIO ($18.95)

A refreshing and easy-drinking Sauvignon Blanc with gooseberry, grapefruit, honey, fresh herbs and lime. Light with medium length. Drink up. (ES)

86 HUFF ESTATES RIESLING OFF DRY 2016, ONTARIO ($20)

Soft and smooth with mineral, citrus, white peach and honey. Even though there is 17 g/l of residual sugar, it comes across as dry due to the elevated acidity. Drink now. (ES)

85 SPRUCEWOOD SHORES RIESLING 2016, ONTARIO ($13.95)

Smoky minerals, peach, ginger, lime and hints of honey are featured in this off-dry wine. Crisp acidity rounds it all out. Pair with barbecue Chinese pork or spicy fish tacos. (ES)

85 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES ALIGOTÉ 2016, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($15.95)

A soft and easy-drinking Aligoté with apple, pear, banana and citrus. Good length. Chill well and serve with shellfish. (ES)

FRANCE 90 DOMAINE PATTES LOUP 2014, VENT D’ANGE, AC CHABLIS ($43)

Third generation Thomas Pico is one of the young shining stars of Chablis, making natural wines from lieu dit that have been farmed by his family for decades. However, when young Pico took over selected sites from his father, he converted them from conventional to organic and biodynamics, returning to the kind of farming his grandfather began. Wild yeast-fermented and with no inputs, this, one of Pico’s entry-level Chablis, is from vines averaging 55 years, mostly Massale plantings from his grandfather around the villages of Corgis and Prey, around 300 m at altitude on kimmeridgian soils. A long, slow ferment in a combo of stainless and cement eggs, this continued aging in those vessels, along with 10% in old oak before it

was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Green apple, earthy lees, fine chalky grip around the edges, with shimmering acidity, lemon and precise fine spicing to a nutty finish. Beauty, understated and authentic, and his wines only complex from here. If you see these wines, buy, because Pico lost a lot (nearly everything) in the past 2, very poor vintages in Chablis, so quantities are rock-bottom low. (TR)

85 MOILLARD VIOGNIER HUGUES LE JUSTE 2016, VIN DE PAYS D’OC ($15)

89 DOMAINE DE LA RENNE TOURAINE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, LOIRE ($14.95)

Clear pale copper color. Pleasant nose of strawberry liquorice, boiled candy and orange with a hint of barnyard. Light-bodied with juicy, slightly sweet-tasting fruit in good balance. Drink up. (RL)*

Pale gold in colour, this wine comes on like a white Bordeaux. The nose is grassy, green plum with a light floral note. Medium-bodied and crisply dry, it offers a flavour of lychee and green plum with a lemon-lime finish. (TA)

89 CHÂTEAU DE CHAMIREY MERCUREY BLANC 2014, BURGUNDY ($29)

Pale yellow. Oak-dominated nose of buttery notes hovering over fruity aromas of pear and apple with hints of smoke and flint. Creamy mouthfeel energized by fine acidity. Nice balance throughout; the full finish is very satisfying. Drink or hold. (GBQc)

89 JEAN-PAUL AND BENOÎT DROIN PETIT CHABLIS 2015, CHABLIS ($35)

This is a humble Petit Chablis from one of the appellation’s historic, unsung (IMHO) producers, the father-son team of JeanPaul and Benoît Droin. The Droins have been producing wines in Chablis for 400 years (their history as vignerons dates back at least to 1620). Benoît represents the 14th generation of Droins and is one of the most dynamic young winemakers in the region today. They own 13 ha of vineyards, including many 1er and Grand Cru sites. Lemon and stones ride along a bed of lees in this streamlined white, with ample pear, subtle stone fruit, lemon and fine spice. There’s an earthy herbal wave to the finish. Ideal for drinking now, while you wait for your Grand Cru Chablis to be ready. (TR)

87 DOMAINE LAROCHE SAINT MARTIN CHABLIS, BURGUNDY ($25) From one of the most famous names in Chablis comes this lean and crisp white, delivering loads of minerals, green apple and citrus. Oysters please! (ES)

with just a slight fuzzy grip around the edges. There’s an underlay of waxy, petrol sheen, typical of Rheingau, and a pithy clementine that lingers on the appropriately bitter finish. (TR)

Heady pear, melon and green notes float above a base of toast in this simple Viognier from Languedoc. Stainless steel has kept the fruit clipped and clean until a warm (nearly 14%) and gingery finish. (TR)

GREECE

82 LES VIGNOBLES DE TIM ET LOU 2015, VIN DE FRANCE ($14)

86 BOUTARI MOSCHOFILERO 2016, MANTINÍA ($17)

GERMANY 93 DR HERMANN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING SPÄTLESE 2010, MOSEL ($20.95)

Old gold in colour with a honeyed, dried-apricot and petrol nose. Light-bodied, sweet, rich honey and dried apricot flavours; beautifully balanced with great length and a faint spritz on the palate. (TA)

91 NIK WEIS ST URBANS-HOF OCKFENER BOCKSTEIN KABINETT RIESLING 2016, MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER ($34)

When 3rd generation Nik Weis took over St Urbans-Hof in 1997, he steered the venerable Mosel site sustainable. Organic fertilizers, wild ferment, no additives are all employed to showcase the true nature of this steep slope of graveled slate. A gentle press and fermentation in stainless at cool cellar temperatures captured the delicacy and light spritz of the grape, before aging in traditional 1000 L fuder for a few months. So much ginger here – leading off a rich and full Kabinett Riesling. Elderflower, lilies, apricot, honeyed pear, ginger ale and river rock, and a flush of perfumed tangerine and mandarin. This lingers with rosewater, fine jasmine spicing and a gentle smoked stone. (TR)

87 G H VON MUMM 50 DEGREE RIESLING 2013, RHEINGAU ($21)

Named in honour of the 50th degree of latitude that runs through the Rheingau, this is a juicy, easy and approachable wine. Classic nose of honeyed pear, apricot, peach blossom and light nectarine,

From Greece wine royalty, Boutari has been making wine for more than 130 years, and rule the market both locally and internationally. This is 100% Moschofilero from Mantinia’s hillside vineyards, fresh at 650 m. 3 months in stainless before bottling is meant to keep the crisp, bright fruit: green and yellow apples, lemon, grass, white blossom and cantaloupe, perfumed with a ginger haze on a clipped finish. Clean, compact, lean, bright and perfect with simple clams. (TR)

ITALY 92 SILVIA CASTAGNERO FERLINGOT 2015, GRIGNOLINO D’ASTI DOC, PIEDMONT ($40)

Light in colour with an entrancing perfume, showing fresh, juicy strawberry and sour-cherry flavours; a touch herbaceous, pleasantly tannic, lean and focused with a mouthwatering acidity on the long finish. Absolutely delicious and perfect with fatty pork dishes. (GB)

91 PLANETA COMETA 2015, DOC SICILIA MENFI, SICILY ($40)

This comet is a full-bodied Fiano, ripe with quince, fleshy white peach, almond blossom, chamomile, acacia and Mediterranean herbal scrub scenting the generous palate. This was grown on lime-chalk soils, affording a pixelated lemon acidity and stream of saltiness that rockets this upwards. Apricot and sea salts lingers on the lengthy finish. Impressive showing; this is a brightly shining wine even at 14% — part of the striking allure of Sicily. (TR)

90 PERLA DEL GARDA MADRE PERLA 2013, LUGANA, LOMBARDY ($40) Persistent, fresh and complex; full, rich and minerally, showing a mouthwatering salinity, a hint of blanched almond and great balance with a long-lasting finish.

NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 55

NOTED Has aged very well and still has loads of life. Made from 100% Turbiana. Delicious with white fish and shellfish. (GB)

89 LA GUARDIENSE JANARE FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO 2016, CAMPANIA ($16.95)

Straw colour with a green tint; spicy, starfruit and Asian-pear nose. Medium-bodied, dry, richly extracted fruit, well-balanced with a long finish. (TA)

89 ETTORE GERMANO NASCETTA 2015, LANGHE DOC, PIEDMONT ($34)

Fresh with aromas of fresh herbs and citrus; mouth-filling, slightly tannic, minty with a bright, balanced acidity and salty minerality on the long finish. Great match with sashimi, Parmigiano risotto and asparagus dishes. (GB)

88 CONCILIO PINOT GRIGIO 2016, TRENTINO ($13.95)

Pale straw in colour with a minerally, peach-pit nose; medium-bodied, dry, white-peach flavour with a lemony finish. Good length. (TA)

88 PLANETA CHARDONNAY 2015, IGT SICILIA, SICILY ($50)

Ripe, full and rich, with dense white florals, sweet almond paste, fleshy yellow peaches, ripe apricots and musk melon weighting the creamy palate, lingering on the finish with a pool of lemon caramel. Yes, this is not a shy Chardonnay. Fermented and aged in 50% new 225 L Allier oak barriques for 10 months. For all its creaminess, this holds a fine capillary of acidity that strings it along, and a saltiness that buoys it through the finish, elevating it from the old school. If this were half the price, it would make sense and impress. (TR)

NEW ZEALAND 90 TUA TUA BAY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, MARLBOROUGH ($19) Clear medium-deep yellow. The nose loudly proclaims its New Zealand origin with powerful gooseberry, elderflower

and lime scents. Surprisingly full-bodied, with more gooseberry flavour and lemony acidity. Perfect with a seafood ceviche. Drink up. (RL)*

90 TE MATA ESTATE CAPE CREST SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, HAWKES BAY ($30.95) Straw-coloured, slightly sweaty on the nose with guava, green pineapple notes; medium-bodied, crisply dry green-plum flavour with lively acidity and amazing length. (TA)

89 INVIVO CHARDONNAY 2016, GISBORNE ($16.95)

Straw-coloured with an oaky, spicy Burgundian-style nose. Medium-bodied, dry, apple and citrus flavours; good length with a chalky-minerally note on the finish. (TA)

PORTUGAL 92 ANSELMO MENDES ALVARINHO CONTACTO 2016, DOC VINHO VERDE ($26)

There is Vinho Verde you think you know, and there are wines like this. From one of Vinho Verde’s icons, this is Alvarinho from the Monção and Melgaço subregion, regarded as a “cru” in quality. For this wine, the vineyards sidle the river and are blanketed with stones. Wild pear is slicked with salts, meadow herbs and scented with a perfume of wild mint. The form is greyhound-sleek and the finish lingers with savoury allure. Best with some breathing space. (TR)

SOUTH AFRICA 92 VONDELING BABIANA 2014, VOOR-PAARDEBERG ($23.67)

Interesting blend of 4 varietals, where Chardonnay speaks loudest. Clear medium-deep gold. Fairly strong nose of citrus and apple with pronounced French oak. Full-bodied with a long finish and so much rich fruit (citrus, peach, apricot) it tastes almost off-dry. Only gets this score if you like oak. Will last a couple more years. (RL)*

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SPAIN 88 LUZADA VAL DO SALNÉS ALBARIÑO 2015, DO RIAS BAIXAS ($16.50)

A squeeze of lemon tightens the peach, melon and pear Albarino from a co-op in Rias Baixas. Spanish warmth gives this an easy and friendly generosity, one that would partner well with fish tacos or gentle green curry. A lick of spice perks up the finish. (TR)

UNITED STATES 92 BERINGER PRIVATE RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2015, NAPA ($48)

This is old-time California Chardonnay in spades. Yellow straw in colour with a spicy, cedary, toasty, tropical-fruit bouquet; full-bodied, sweet and spicy mango and pineapple flavours that fill the mouth, finishing on toasty oak notes. Good length. (TA)

88 RODNEY STRONG CHALK HILL CHARDONNAY 2014, SONOMA ($28)

Rodney Strong was the first to plant Chardonnay in Sonoma’s Chalk Hills in 1965, an area that became its own AVA in 1983. The volcanic, chalky, white ash soils, unique to the area, can be seen in the stream of fine minerality throughout this fuller white. I’d love to see less wood here, so the site and soils really ring. As it stands now, barrel ferment (partial new) and wood toast lead the creamy palate, with the yellow apple, pear, nougat and lemon curd finishing this off with a trailing spiciness. Less is more, please. (TR)

ROSÉ 90 TOWNSHIP 7 2016 ROSÉ, NARAMATA AND KELOWNA, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($17.97) Mainly estate-grown Merlot, with equal parts of 19% Pinot Gris and Malbec, yields vibrant rhubarb and red fruit

on top followed by a medium-weight, fruit-driven palate of juicy strawberry, melon and some floral notes with moderate acidity through a fresh finish. (TP)

89 TANTALUS VINEYARDS ROSÉ 2016, OKANAGAN ($23)

A blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, this one is salmon pink with floral, strawberry and mineral scents. Strawberry and red cherry combine on the palate with some creaminess and refreshing acidity, finishing in a dry, food-friendly style. (SW)

88 STAG’S HOLLOW WINERY ROSÉ 2016, OKANAGAN ($25.19)

An 80/20 blend of Syrah and Grenache, this characterful rosé shows spicy red berry, red cherry and a hint of cranberry, delivered in an appealing, well-balanced creamy package. (SW)

85 BODEGAS MILLENNIUM CIUMES GARNACHA ROSÉ 2015, SPAIN ($12)

Rustic, ripe and ready, this is a deeper hued rosé of Garnacha from Spain. A reductive swing and noticeable bump of sugar make this extra-punchy to the short, hot finish. Well chilled, this might have a chance with your tuna burgers this summer. (TR)

RED AUSTRALIA 95 GEOFF HARDY K1 SHIRAZ 2013, ADELAIDE HILLS ($26)

Clear inky-deep plum red. Medium-intensity nose of black cherry and black pepper. Lots more black cherry on the palate, full-bodied with a long finish. High alcohol makes it a bit hot. Needs another couple of years. (RL)*

89 SISTER’S RUN CALVARY HILL SHIRAZ 2014, BAROSSA VALLEY ($17.95)

A well-priced Aussie Shiraz. Dense purple-black in colour; cedary, blackberry nose with smoky oak. Full-bodied, richly extracted black plum flavour backed by vanilla oak; firmly structured. (TA)

89 PIRRAMIMMA PETIT VERDOT 2014, MCLAREN VALE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($29)

Ripe, sweeter blackberry, sarsaparilla, cassis are pierced with peppery thorns and cushy black berry-fruit in this generous, perfumed Petit Verdot, an iconic highlight not just of Pirramimma’s portfolio, but a solid benchmark of PV everywhere. Gritty, tuggy tannins hug the plush black fruit, streaming along the medium-bodied, velvet-lined palate and shown through a filter of anise and violets, and finishing with dark chocolate. (TR)

flavours on the entry to the palate. Look for ripe, dark and red berries and toasted vanilla spice on a supple, smooth delivery though the finish. (RV)

92 CULMINA CABERNET FRANC 2014, OKANAGAN ($38)

A rocking nose of savoury red fruits, herbs, cedar cigar box, rich spices, black pepper, liquorice and toasted vanilla. It has lovely mouthfeel with a rich broth of red fruits, savoury herbs, pepper, elegant oak spices and plush tannins with a perky and lifted finish. (RV)

88 LANGMEIL VALLEY FLOOR SHIRAZ 2014, BAROSSA VALLEY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($30)

92 MEYER FAMILY VINEYARDS MCLEAN CREEK PINOT NOIR 2015, VQA OKANAGAN ($40)

86 WOOLSHED SHIRAZ 2015 ($14)

92 PONDVIEW BELLA TERRA MERITAGE 2013, NIAGARA ($45)

Potent blackberry, black cherry, ripe blueberry on the fleshy palate, filtered with eucalyptus and dark mocha. Tannins are sticky but firm, and the finish echoes with kirsch and cracked pepper. Best with some sort of barbecue (winter squash, pork) to sop up the potency and alcohol (14.5%). (TR)

Rubber and tar filters throughout this old-school Aussie Shiraz, labeled solely as “Wine of Australia.” Thick blackcurrants, cassis, black plum are all lifted with a cell of acidity, but plummet to a shorter finish. Tannins are a bit gummy, and the reductive note grows the longer this is in the glass. Try with burgers for best results. (TR)

85 QUARISA WINES JOHNNY Q SHIRAZ 2014, PADTHAWAY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($14)

Sweet and dense with brown sugar, blueberries and blackberry pie, this is an old-school Aussie Shiraz. Easy, simple, fruit-driven and thick, with oaken vanilla, intense berry jam and a flush of cinnamon-heart spiced heat on the finish. (TR)

CANADA 91 CULMINA MERLOT 2014, OKANAGAN ($35)

The wine was finished unfiltered and unfined with 100% French oak (15% new), aged for 16 months. Such a gorgeous nose of plums, cherries, blackberries, anise, sweet/savoury spices and toasted oak notes. It’s bright with a cavalcade of

Shows complex raspberry, piquant blackcurrant and lifted floral scent together with cinnamon and a whiff of clove. Dominant raspberry flavour on the palate is accented with a pinch of white pepper and subtle earthy notes. Will benefit from another 3 years’ cellaring. (SW)

The blend for this estate’s top wine is 40% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc with the rest Merlot. The nose is thick with blackberries, cherries, intense spice notes, currants, earth, bramble and sweet tobacco. It has wonderful mouthfeel and energy on the palate with lavish dark fruits, cocoa bean, cigar leaf, baking spices, ripe tannins, structure and tangy acidity on the finish. (RV)

92 TWO SISTERS SENZA 2015, NIAGARA ($49)

This is a near-natural wine with no sulphur or anything added. It is a beautiful thing with a lovely reductive campfire note on the nose to go with red plums, mulled cherry, meaty notes, herbs and a complex array of savoury red fruits. It’s remarkably meaty, earthy and savoury on the palate with thick, rich black fruits, polished tannins, earth and layered spices that is all together complex, wild and untethered through a long finish. (RV)

91 MALIVOIRE SMALL LOT GAMAY 2016, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($19.95)

Besides being Winemaker of the Year at this year’s Ontario Wine Awards, Shiraz Mottiar is without a doubt making OntarNOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 57

NOTED io’s best Gamays — period! This vintage features strawberry, raspberry, plum, black pepper and purple flower. There is a sense of sweet fruit on the lips, before Gamay’s lovely acidity sweeps everything up. Great stuff! (ES)

91 8TH GENERATION VINEYARDS PINOT NOIR 2015, OKANAGAN ($25) 100% estate grown at the Trout Creek Vineyard in Summerland, the wine opens with cherry fruit, subtle spice and a whiff of dried herb. Refined red cherry flavours come in an evolving velvety package as tannins are starting to soften. Needs a bit more time but already shows great promise. (SW)

91 TINHORN CREEK OLDFIELD RESERVE SYRAH 2014, OKANAGAN ($32)

91 TRIUS SHOWCASE RED SHALE CLARK FARM CABERNET FRANC 2014, FOUR MILE CREEK ($45)

Another impressive rendition of this wine! Full-bodied and complex; there is cassis, raspberry, smoke, roasted pepper, violets, pencil shavings, dried earth, tobacco and chocolate. Concentrated and ripe; there are good tannins, which make me want to pair with rack of lamb. (ES)

90 HENRY OF PELHAM OLD VINES BACO NOIR, ONTARIO ($19.95)

The heat of the 2016 vintage has produced an elegant Baco with blackberry, raspberry, smoke, chocolate, anise and scorched earth. Medium to full body with splendid length and enough tannins to allow 5+ years of aging, if so desired, but it is also ready to drink. (ES)

This superb Syrah (and tiny bit of Viognier) is aged in a selection of French, Hungarian and American oak, about 30% of it new oak. It has a lovely, expressive nose of plums, boysenberry, figs, earth, bramble, peppercorns and an array of savoury and sweet oak spice notes. It’s vibrant and meaty on the palate with ripe plum, black fruits, dried herbs, savoury/peppery spices, liquorice and smooth tannins. (RV)

90 BLUE GROUSE QUILL PINOT NOIR 2015, COWICHAN VALLEY ($20)

91 TINHORN CREEK OLDFIELD SYRAH 2014, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($31.99)

A highly concentrated nose of cassis, black cherry, cocoa, raspberry jam, vanilla, toast and elegant spices. It’s thick and rich on the palate with high acids, concentrated red fruits, barrel spices, cedar and tar. (RV)

Black fruit and vanilla play beneath a meaty gamy nose, followed by dusty wild blackberry and cassis on the plush and plummy, black-pepper palate, with moderate tannins through a close of lingering berries and spice. (TP)

91 PONDVIEW BELLA TERRA CABERNET FRANC 2013, NIAGARA ($40) This CF is from vines at least 28 years old and aged in mostly French oak for 20+ months and bottled unfiltered. Such a bold nose of concentrated field raspberry, bramble, mulled herbs, violets, currants and toasted vanilla and oak spices. It’s a classically styled Niagara CF on the palate with bold cherry, graphite, a range of red berries, herbs, blackcurrants and spice. (RV)

Up-front aromas of cherry, strawberry and earthy notes before a medium-bodied palate of dark cherry, plum and vanilla with soft tannins. From well-managed, 2- and 3-year-old oak and a well-rounded finish. (TP)

90 PONDVIEW MERLOT RESERVE 2015, NIAGARA ($23)

90 NOBLE RIDGE RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2014, OKANAGAN ($30)

Bright cherry and floral scents with a touch of astringency lead the way for lovely red fruit expression in the mouth. Shows persistent raspberry flavours with fairly stiff tannins and well-balanced acidity, finishing very dry. Give it another 3 years’ cellaring to integrate and soften youthful tannins. (SW)

90 SUMMERHILL SINGLE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2013, CHANDRA VINEYARD, OLIVER ($35) Crushed dark berries on the nose with

58 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

hints of strawberry, plum and raisin before a complex and layered palate of plum and cedar notes. Underpinned by earthy and savoury elements, with hints of clove, 5 spice, black fruit and spice supported by firm tannins through the close. (TP)

90 STAG’S HOLLOW WINERY RENAISSANCE MERLOT 2014, OKANAGAN ($40.25)

Stag’s Hollow Renaissance wines are crafted for age-worthiness and this one is no exception. It offers sound varietal plum with earthy and green herbal scents on the nose. Concentrated black plum and dark cherry fill the mouth. At the moment, tannins are thick and chewy with still rather aggressive acidity. Depth of fruit and structure will reward aging for another 3 to 5 years in the cellar. (SW)

90 NOBLE RIDGE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, OKANAGAN ($54.90)

Dark fruit with notes of cinnamon, clove and coffee-like aromas lead into pure Cabernet varietal blackcurrant and some dark cherry in the mouth. Though somewhat masked by heavy tannins, velvety palate shows signs of emerging. Give it 3 to 7 years’ additional aging. (SW)

90 RAVINE VINEYARD NANCY’S BLOCK CABERNET FRANC, ST DAVID’S BENCH ($55)

A beautiful Cabernet Franc with cassis, raspberry, cherry, tobacco, baking spice, graphite and violets. Tannins are ripe but non-obtrusive and support the medium body. (ES)

89 NOBLE RIDGE RESERVE MERITAGE 2014, OKANAGAN ($35)

Made exclusively from selected fruit, estate-grown in Okanagan Falls, this classic Bordeaux blend spent 15 months in French and American oak and a further 14 months in bottle prior to release. It shows some development on the nose with deeply concentrated blackcurrant and blackberry, and harmoniously balanced acidity. Heavy, dry tannins need more time to settle down. (SW)

Fine red fruit with toasty, peppery, savoury and smoky aromas. Raspberry, with peppery spice in the mouth. Smoothly textured with firm but not overbearing tannins, it needs a little more time for youthful acidity to settle down. (SW)

Roasted onions, roasted meats, rubber, shellac with soft tannins lined with grippy and gritty sides to a warming finish. There is a bright lift of acidity, which was welcome. Could I tell this was Cab Sauv right away? Not really. Could I tell it was old-school Chile? Sí. Best with your grilled meats barbecue. (TR)

89 TWO SISTERS CABERNET FRANC 2013, NIAGARA ($49)

FRANCE

89 NIGHTHAWK VINEYARDS SYRAH 2015, OKANAGAN ($38.78)

The nose shows black cherry, herbs, spice, cassis, liquorice, bramble, earth and smoky tobacco notes. It has firm tannic structure on the palate with a darker tone to the fruit, layered and savoury spices, earth and a fairly long finish. (RV)

88 RED HOUSE WINE CO CABERNET SHIRAZ, NIAGARA ($13.95)

Medium-plus body, it provides a rich mouthful of plum, blackberry, raspberry, violets, tar, spice and chocolate. There is fine length with ripe tannins and just a hint of residual sugar. Steak time! (ES)

87 13TH STREET WINERY BURGER BLEND GAMAY NOIR/PINOT NOIR 2016, NIAGARA ($14.95)

This wine is aptly named, as barbecue fare (as well as pasta/pizza) would be brilliant with this juicy red. Black pepper, raspberry, carnation and herbs are supported by soft tannins and fresh acidity. (ES)

87 HUFF ESTATES MERLOT 2016, ONTARIO ($20)

Vinified in stainless steel, this Merlot delivers plum, raspberry, Bing cherry, smoke, leather and spice. Medium body, medium tannins and fresh acidity round out the package. Drink up. (ES)

86 HENRY OF PELHAM BACO NOIR 2016, ONTARIO ($14.95)

Raspberry, blackberry, cinnamon, violets, chocolate, spice and herbs that flow out of the glass and onto the taste buds. Nice depth and freshness. Drink now with grilled sausages. (ES)

CHILE 87 PÉREZ CRUZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVA 2014, MAIPO ($15) Potent and driving VA opens this dense Cabernet Sauvignon from Alto Maipo.

89 BARONNIE DE CANET MERLOT 2014, IGP PAYS D’OC ($11.83)

Clear deep garnet. Fairly intense nose of ripe blue and black berries; also maple syrup. Lightish-bodied, cranberry and raspberry fruit-driven with marked acidity. Good match for a casual shepherd’s pie dinner. Drink soon. (RL)*

89 LA CONDAMINE PAULIGNAN MINERVOIS 2013, LANGEDOC-ROUSSILLON ($17.95)

Deep purple-ruby in colour with black raspberry, mint and oak spice on the nose; medium- to full-bodied, dry, blackberry and liquorice flavours with a note of dark chocolate. Fruity but firm. (TA)

89 CHÂTEAU DE CHAMIREY MERCUREY ROUGE 2014, BURGUNDY ($26.90)

Light ruby. Ripe red fruits and hints of spicy oak make the nose really inviting. Only half-bodied with silky tannins turning barely firm in the mid-palate and finish. Great purity in the fruity taste. Nice round finish. Ready to enjoy. (GBQc)

88 JEAN-PAUL BRUN BEAUJOLAIS TERRES DORÉES L’ANCIEN 2015, BEAUJOLAIS ($25)

Silky, fresh and elegant with cherry, earth and pepper, the wine glides across the palate and possesses a lifted, refreshing finish. Chill it slightly to make it even more refreshing. (GB)

88 HENRI BOURGEOIS LES BARONNES 2015, SANCERRE AC ($35)

Aromatic floral scent with smoky, grassy herbal and passion-fruit notes shift to mixed gooseberry and passion-fruit flavours supported by chalky mineral and crisp acidity on the drying finish. Lightly sweet fruit reflects the warm 2015 vintage. (SW)

ITALY 96 MARCHESE ANTINORI SOLAIA 2012, IGT TOSCANA ($247)

Very dark. Rich and deep nose of ripe red and black fruits; lots of sophisticated oak showing pastry notes at this stage. Full-bodied, it has great elegance, very generous while being balanced in every way. The never-ending finish adds notes of liquorice. Already enjoyable but the potential is there for 20 years. (GBQc)

95 CA’ LA BIONDA 2012, DOC AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO ($45)

Clear medium-deep garnet. Intense nose of black cherries, stewed fruits and caramel. Full-bodied on the palate with noticeable alcohol and cooked mixed-berry flavours so concentrated it almost tastes sweet. Caramel and chocolate flavours on the long finish. Lovely now; will last a few more years. (RL)*

95 ORNELLAIA 2013, BOLGHERI SUPERIORE, TOSCANA ($199)

Very dark colour. Deep but discreet nose of pastry cream and subdued red and black fruits, typical of a very young promising wine. Silky on the outside, you can feel the power within it; the concentrated core coats the mouth leading to a very tight finish that reveals the fine grainy tannins. Hold 10 years and enjoy over the following 10 to 15 years. (GBQc)

92 MARCHESE ANTINORI TIGNANELLO 2013, IGT TOSCANA ($104) The shy nose of blackberries and hints of oak has depth. Very full-bodied; the compact mid-palate has a fine tannic texture, very tight. In its infancy; it will show its true potential in 10 years. (GBQc)

91 PLANETA 2013 CERASUOLO DI VITTORIA DOCG, SICILY ($26)

The only DOCG in Sicily, this takes its name from “Cerasa,” cherry in Sicilian dialect. This is a 60/40 blend of indigenous varieties Nero d’Avola and Frappato, and from the countryside of Dorilli, between the sea and the Iblean mountains. 14 days on the skins, this spent its life in stainless before being bottled. Medium-bodied with salted raspberry, plum, cherry, wild tobacco, geraniums, anise, olive, sea salt and squid ink, the complexities of this wine NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 59

NOTED reveal over the course of the evening. The finish is lingering and haunting; drinking beautifully now, with or without food (but stunning with fennel, sardines and orange or a funghi pizza). (TR)

91 TENUTA SANTA CATERINA ARLANDINO 2015, GRIGNOLINO D’ASTI DOC, PIEDMONT ($40)

Charming and pretty with tart strawberry flavours, broad, soft, juicy tannins, accessible and fresh with bright acidity on the minerally finish. More people need to discover this incredibly delicious and versatile grape variety. (GB)

91 DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI CENERENTOLA 2015, ORCIA DOC, TUSCANY ($55)

Intense and intriguing with complex aromas and flavours of cherry, plum, currant and spice; layered and structured with a firm core, yet still exhibits a gracefulness with a minerally freshness and long persistent finish. A blend of 65% Sangiovese and 35% Foglia Tonda. Serve with roast meats and flavourful hard cheese. (GB)

90 RIVERA IL FALCONE 2011, ROSSO RISERVA CASTEL DEL MONTE, PUGLIA ($22)

Full ruby. Ripe dark plum and cherry; soft spices and hints of tar. The sweet red-fruit flavours that wrap the smooth tannins overtake the soft acidity in the full mid-palate. There is barely any graininess in the long finish. Enjoy now or keep 4 to 5 years. (GBQc)

90 ANTINORI VILLA ANTINORI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2013, TOSCANA ($29.95)

The dried red fruits and inviting oak notes are tempting. Full-bodied and perfectly balanced, masterfully made not to knock your socks off; instead, it is its elegance that will keep you coming back. (GBQc)

90 PLANETA ETNA ROSSO 2015, DOC ETNA, SICILY ($30)

This is entirely Nerello Mascalese, a grape only found on this tip of Sicily, and born from the volcanic soils and altitude of Etna DOC. Fermented in wood vats and

stainless, and spent 18 days with the skins before resting in the same for 6 months. Pretty and fine-grained, dusted with stony tannins, violets, wild raspberries, black cherries, salted wild herbs, textured with a pixelated acidity. This contradicts its 14% alcohol, with a youthful exuberance that streams it skyward, and encourages cellaring for the next 5+ years. (TR)

89 IL VELTRO 2010, DOC BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO ($22.50)

90 CORTE DEL SOLE AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2009, VENETO ($63.95)

Ripe black berry-fruits, toasted oak. Sharp acidity balanced with loads of fleshy fruit in the mid-palate. The chunky tannins reveal their firmness in the finish. Drink within a year or 2. (GBQc)

Dense ruby in colour with a cedary, plum and raisin bouquet; full-bodied, dry, rich and full on the palate. Fleshy but elegant, beautifully balanced and firm. (TA)

89 MONT’ALBANO REFOSCO DAL PEDUNCOLO ROSSO 2015, FRIULI GRAVE ($16.95)

Spicy black-cherry bouquet with an engaging floral note; medium- to full-bodied, dry, fruity plum flavour with oak spice and firm tannins, finishing on a rose-petal note. (TA)

89 TEDESCHI CAPITEL NICALÒ 2015, VENETO ($17.95)

This is a blend of 7 local grapes grown on the Moraine Hills in the heart of Valpolicella. Dense purple in colour, it has an intense bouquet of blackberries and smoky vanilla oak. Full-bodied and dry, you experience richly extracted flavours of blackberry and blackcurrant with lively acidity and a firm tannic finish. (TA)

89 SERAPHICUM ROSSO 2013, IGT TOSCANO ($18.33)

Nose of raspberries, strawberries, leather and spice. Light-bodied with simple flavours of sour cherry and other red berries. Best drunk now. (RL)*

89 PRUNOTTO MOMPERTONE 2014, MONFERRATO ROSSO, PIEMONTE ($18.55)

Medium ruby. Expressive nose of red fruits and flowers, subdued oak. Medium-bodied, supple and full mid-palate; tannins are finely grainy and wellwrapped in fruit. This is drinking very well right now. (GBQc)

60 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

Clear light garnet, fading to orange. Faint but complex nose of dark berries, black olives, some dark chocolate. Medium-bodied with complex mature flavours of leather, mushrooms and smoke. Drink now. (RL)*

88 FALESCO VITIANO 2014, IGT UMBRIA ($15.95)

88 FATTORIA LA MALIOSA ROSSO 2015, IGT TOSCANA ($38)

Elegant and graceful with sour red cherry aromas and flavours; bright and juicy, a touch earthy with ripe tannins, slightly minty and a fresh, persistent finish. Made from 85% Ciliegiolo and 15% Sangiovese in the Maremma on the Tuscan coast where Ciliegiolo tends to handle well the heat, wind and drought of the area. (GB)

87 MONT’ALBANO REFOSCO DAL PEDUNCOLO ROSSO DELLE VENEZIE 2015, VENETO ($16.95)

Refosco is an ancient red varietal found primarily in northeastern Italy. Raspberry, plum, vanilla, cocoa, spice and purple flower are built on a medium-body frame. Medium length and a quintessential pasta/pizza wine. (ES)

87 RUFFINO IL DUCALE 2014, IGT TOSCANA, TUSCANY ($18.50)

Smoked meats, singed cassis and a flush of mint open this blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah from Ruffino’s La Solatia estate, one known for its galestro soils, and with vineyards approximately 250-350 m altitude. A 10-day ferment, followed by another week on the skins preceded MLF and 1 year in oak (mix of new and old). This is a modern, polished and medium-bodied blend, slick on the palate with cherry jam, more minty eucalyptus, roasted meats, grilled onions and black pepper. If you’re doing fire-roasted beef and want something to match, here you go. (TR)

87 ZORZETTIG PIGNOLO MYO VIGNETI DI SPESSA 2011, COLLI ORIENTALI DEL FRIULI DOC ($36)

Dark purple in colour with rich dark fruit, bold tannins and structure; toasty with hints of balsamic, with a long, rich finish. (GB)

NEW ZEALAND 87 MATUA VALLEY PINOT NOIR 2014, MARLBOROUGH ($18)

Perfumed potpourri of spices, with sultry raspberry, strawberry jam, lavender, baked rhubarb, pink peppercorns flooding the medium-bodied palate, one sharpened with a balsamic note and finishing with a flush of warmth. Tannins are gentle and soft on a downy cushion. Easy to like, and an accessible entry into Pinot without being dumbed down. (TR)

PORTUGAL 84 QUINTA DA GIESTA 2012, DOC DÃO ($15)

Clear medium-deep ruby. Nose of raspberries, spice, hard candy with a bit of barnyard. Tastes simply of tart red berries. A wine to accompany barbecued burgers on a summer evening. Drink now. (RL)*

SOUTH AFRICA 87 GLEN CARLOU GRAND CLASSIQUE 2013, PAARL, COASTAL REGION ($23

I last tasted this vintage in 2015, when it first came onto our market. I was surprised to see the 2013 now, 2 years further along, and suspect it has something to do with sales flow rather than cellaring strategy. The smoke and leather in this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc are still evident, but more pronounced with age, and the wine is now showing oxidative, OXO notes. Tannins are sticky and the spicing is 5-star. Drink now, either off the shelf or in your cellar, with Asianspiced ribs. (TR)

86 FAIRVIEW GOATS DO ROAM RED 2015 ($15)

New World wine? Fairview Cellar was established in 1693. That’s right — Columbus era. This is a blend of Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Petit Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault from Paarl, aged in tanks and barrels. Ripe, juicy and smooth, this mediumbodied, easy-drinking red carries smoked meats, cherries and stewed cassis to a short, clipped finish. There’s a driving level of VA and some reduction brewing underneath the surface of this screw-capped wine which detract. That said, partnership with smoky beef ribs will mitigate. (TR)

SPAIN 89 GIL FAMILY ESTATES HONORO VERA ORGANIC MONASTRELL 2015, DO JUMILLA ($17.50)

Highly perfumed red fruits, resinous thorns, heady carnations and anise on this bright, tight, organic, dry-farmed, limestone-soiled Monastrell from Jumilla. Crunchy acidity, fine, gritty tannins house the streamlined flow to a medicinal, Amaro-infused, quite warm (14.5%) finish. Interesting and intense; if Campari was dry and compacted, I reckon it would be this. Rack of lamb or pork ribs would rock with this. (TR)

89 TORRES SALMOS PRIORAT 2014, PRIORAT ($31.95)

A wine for dedicated carnivores! Dense purple colour; cedary, blackberry nose with a note of cinnamon. Medium- to full-bodied, dry, savoury, plum flavour; well-balanced with lively acidity. (TA).

87 GIL FAMILY ESTATE ENTRESUELOS TEMPRANILLO 2013, VINO DE LA TIERRA DE CASTILLA Y LEON ($19)

Potent and dense, reflective of the sunbaked and wild Castilla y Leon region. The Tempranillo here is planted on sandy soils in Zamora’s El Pego and Villanueva de Campean, fermented in stainless and aged in French oak for 6 months. Smoked blue and black fruit, thorns, black liquorice, dark florals, cola and sap are drawn by sticky, thick tannins to a hot, shorter finish. There’s a lot stuffed into this rustic wine, requiring richer grilled meats to match. (TR)

UNITED STATES 90 SIMI LANDSLIDE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, SONOMA ($39.95)

Intense, deep purple in colour with a cedary, savoury nose of blackcurrant and blackberry; full-bodied, dry, savoury, herbal black-fruit flavours with good length. Tannins are there but nicely resolved. (TA)

DESSERT LOUKATOS BROS MAVRODAPHNE OF PATRAS 2015, PELOPONNESE, GREECE ($8.95/375 ML)

For sweet wine lovers. Deep ruby-purple colour with a mature rim. Cedary, plum bouquet; full-bodied, sweet plum jam flavour with spicy oak notes and balancing acidity. Great value. (TA)

TAYLOR FLADGATE FINE WHITE PORT, DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL ($15.95)

If you think port is a winter drink, you haven’t tried white port. Deep amber colour. It has a nutty nose of dried fruits with a spicy orange-peel note. Rich and full on the palate, it has a creamy caramel and orange flavour. Chill it and serve it with mushroom soup or add some tonic and a wedge of orange over ice as a pre-prandial cocktail. (TA)

SPIRITS EMILIO LUSTAU VERMUT, ANDALUCIA, SPAIN ($30)

Sasparilla, warm marmalade, cedar, toast, walnut and potent gingersnap warmth in this stunning, textural (and very rare) sweet vermouth (the first premium one from Lustau). Amontillado and Pedro Ximénez, each aged in their own soleras for 10 years, were macerated with 10 botanicals included before bottling. Incorporates wormwood, gentian, coriander and rich marmalade, textured with dried and frizzed sage to scent the velveteen whole. So balanced and complete, this vermouth doesn’t even need an ice cube to be brill (though that could elevate it to another dimension). (TR) NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 61

NOTED BEER & CIDER MUSKOKA BREWERY SHINNICKED, ONTARIO ($3.25/473 ML)

Cold-steeping coffee beans in the brew from nearby Muskoka Roastery. Its deep black appearance contrasts nicely with the fluffy, cappuccino-colour foam. On the nose, roasted coffee and dark chocolate follow through to the palate, with a velvety body and high carbonation. Try it with your favourite chocolate bar (like the caramel and cookie crunch, Twix); the milk chocolate tones down the roasted edge while highlighting dark chocolate notes. (TL)

BEAU’S ALL-NATURAL BREWING FULL TIME IPA, ONTARIO ($5/600 ML)

A new permanent IPA has been added to the Beau’s lineup (aka Canada’s biggest independent organic brewery). It pours a hazy golden hue with a pillowy foam topper. Citrus and caramel notes intermingle in the aroma, with big pine and grapefruit notes on the palate. Full Time IPA is seasoned with a mix of organic hops from New Zealand and America, giving it those big tropical-fruit and evergreen-forest flavours and aromas. (TL)

CALEDON HILLS BREWING COMPANY VIENNA LAGER, ONTARIO ($3.10/473 ML)

Bavarian brewmaster Stefan Riedelsheimer is a traditionalist, and this lager showcases the rich, bready Vienna malts — notes of toast, honey and graham cracker mark the nose of this deep golden, brilliantly clear lager. The sip balances a rich biscuit profile with elegant and crisp floral hops, finishing slightly sweet and toasty. A year-round everyday sipper. (CL)

BLOOD BROTHERS BREWING THE INNER EYE PALE ALE, ONTARIO ($5/500 ML)

Brothers Dustin and Brayden Jones operate this cult brewery tucked away in Toronto’s hip Lansdowne neighbourhood. Pouring a mix of Brett-fermented sours with fruit additions and solid IPAs on an ever-chang-

ing draught list, it’s a destination worth checking out. Don’t miss this pale ale, bursting with mango and pineapple notes from amarillo and citra hops with a slightly sweet, lightly tart, grainy finish. (CL)

CAPLE RD CIDER, UNITED KINGDOM ($2.95/473 ML)

Pouring a deep gold with brilliant clarity and large bubbles, this sparkling UK cider is a new arrival in Canada. Made from a blend of oak and stainless-aged apple juices, aged up to 18 months, this entry-level cider has enough complexity to satisfy more educated sippers. A bright pome fruit aroma on the nose is followed by a sip that balances sweetness with bright acidity and backing notes of light oak, vanilla, apple pie crust and leather. (CL)

PEI BREWING COMPANY GAHAN IRON BRIDGE BROWN ALE, PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND ($3.99/500 ML)

Delicate notes of chocolate and roasted nuts dance to the nose followed by a sip of light-roasted coffee, dark chocolate and nuts finishing dry and roasty on a gently carbonated, medium body. This English-style brown ale is true to style and elegantly executed. It took home a Gold Medal for the category at the 2016 Canadian Brewing Awards. This is a beer I could spend all day sipping at the pub. (CL)

RODENBACH VINTAGE, BELGIUM ($12.95/750 ML)

I stock up on cases of the newest Rodenbach Vintage every holiday season. This Flemish Red Ale is perfect for oenophile pals. It has a wine-like beginning and a balsamic vinegar-like tang thanks to the house strain of yeast, which was found to contain at least 25 different types of microflora and bacteria. They’re great beers for cellaring, too. (TL)

ST BERNARDUS ABT 12, BELGIUM ($10.70/750 ML)

The recipe for this Belgian brew was created by the monks of nearby Westvleteren, and it uses the same yeast strain as the famed Westvleteren 12 ale. Nicknamed a “quadruple” because of its higher

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alcohol; try pouring this 10% ABV ale into a snifter to enjoy its rich, layered notes of fig, toffee and plum. This ale is great for cellaring, too; let it sit for up to 60 months in a cool dark place, and the body will slowly thicken and sweeten with time, drinking more like a port. (TL)

GREAT DIVIDE BREWING YETI IMPERIAL STOUT, COLORADO ($10.95/650 ML)

Yeti Imperial Stout is a big, bold and rich stout. Named Yeti because it can be hard to find, beer geeks line up at the Denver brewery to buy bottles. On the nose, baking chocolate and espresso beans, with a touch of stone fruit. Full-bodied and smooth; there’s complex notes of caramel, dark chocolate and a dark roast coffee, and the malt bill is perfectly balanced with hop bitterness. Take this brew out of the fridge 20 minutes before serving to let it warm up a little. (TL)

BRASSEURS DU MONDE HOUBLONNIÈRE DOUBLE IPA, ST-HYACINTHE, QUEBEC ($5/500 ML)

Hazy yellow with orange hue. Lots of hops on the fresh nose along with citrus and fresh herbs notes and a hint of cat pee. Light body, balanced acidity, intense hops flavour and slightly bitter finish. Overall, a thirst-quenching IPA, very flavourful. “Double” refers to a double dose of hops at every step of the brewing process. (GBQc)

BRASSEURS DU MONDE CALICE IPA AMÉRICAINE, ST-HYACINTHE, QUEBEC ($6.99/500 ML) Dark yellow, orange reflections. Fresh nose of hops and grapefruit. Same flavours in the mouth, good balance with the right dose of bitterness to keep it refreshing. (GBQc)

MICROBRASSERIE COATICOOK BLANCHE COATICOOK, QUEBEC ($5.89/500 ML)

Light yellow, slightly hazy. The nose shows a little hops, flowery and citrus notes and an intriguing hint of juniper. Light taste but the insisting acidity cleanses the palate. (GBQc)

WINNERS OF THE 2017 LIEUTENANT GOVERNOR’S AWARD FOR EXCELLENCE IN ONTARIO WINES TASTED BY TONY ASPLER

WHITE

RED

MAGNOTTA BLANC DE BLANCS NV ($19.95)

CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES DROIT ST DAVID’S BENCH VINEYARD GAMAY NOIR 2015 ($17.95)

A fine Chardonnay sparkler made in the traditional method. A complex wine with persistent tiny bubbles and a toasty, leesy nose; medium-bodied, dry, green-apple and hazelnut flavours with a long, minerally, nutty finish.

Medium ruby colour with a herbal, earthy, cherry nose and just a hint of oak; medium-bodied with meatiness in mid-palate and a dry and savoury plum flavour. Classic Ontario Gamay.

CREEKSIDE ICONOCLAST SÉMILLON/SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015 ($22)

NOMAD AT HINTERBROOK CABERNET FRANC 2013 ($25.95)

TRIUS SHOWCASE CLEAN SLATE WILD FERMENT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015 ($32)

KEW VINEYARDS HERITAGE 2012 ($39.95)

Pale straw colour with a spicy nose of grapefruit, green pear and lanolin; medium-bodied with a creamy texture, crisply dry, fresh and clean with an engaging tartness and good intensity of flavour.

A beautifully balanced wine with a bouquet of cut grass, orange blossom and a thread of minerality. Medium-bodied, dry, round on the palate with flavours of gooseberries and passion fruit.

FLAT ROCK CELLARS THE RUSTY SHED CHARDONNAY 2014 ($24.95)

Offers an expressive nose of red apple and melon with a floral note and toasty oak; full and rich on the palate, it sustains well thanks to its vibrant acidity.

HENRY OF PELHAM RIESLING ESTATE 2016 ($17.95)

A fine example of an off-dry Riesling. Pale straw colour with a nose of honeyed grapefruit and lime; light- to medium-bodied, with guava and citrus-fruit flavours that linger long on the palate.

TRIUS SHOWCASE RIESLING GHOST CREEK VINEYARD 2015 ($25) Pale lemon colour with orchard-fruit aromas of peach and apple with a floral grace note; good tension between sweet fruit and citrus acidity with a long, mouth-freshening finish.

Deep ruby in colour with a flattering nose of bell pepper, coffee beans and currants; medium-bodied, dry, plum and cherry flavours with balancing acidity and a long finish.

Bordeaux varieties subjected to appassimento treatment before fermentation. Ruby colour with a bouquet of dried berries with notes of leather, rose petals and moist earth. Medium- to full-bodied with blackcurrant and coffee flavours that finish with a tannic lift on the finish.

DESSERT TRIUS SHOWCASE VIDAL ICEWINE 2014 ($60)

Deep golden-amber colour; botrytis and floral notes on the nose redolent with mango, honey and peach aromas; full-bodied, sweet and unctuous on the palate with dried fig, tropical fruit and honey flavours kept in check by balancing acidity.

INNISKILLIN NIAGARA ESTATE SPARKLING VIDAL ICEWINE 2014 ($64)

Deep golden colour with a nose of caramel and apricot jam; medium-weight, honeyed peach flavour with an active mousse whose bubbles ameliorate the wine’s sweetness and give length to the finish.

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your wine deserves the very best home 416.285.6604 RosehillWineCellars.com NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 63

DAVINE BY GURVINDER BHATIA

IN SEARCH OF THE NEXT BIG THING Despite the relative youth of British Columbia’s wine industry, it is no longer accurate to refer to regions such as the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys as emerging. They have emerged. Yes, these regions are still evolving, but the maturity of these regions is evidenced by the consistently high-quality wines being produced, which are not just being lauded domestically, but by consumers, industry and press well beyond the province’s and our country’s borders. While 90 percent of all vineyards in BC are located in the Okanagan and Similkameen, there is an emerging segment to the industry represented by regions in which modern wine production ranges from maturing to truly being in its infancy. I recently spent time in some of BC’s northernmost wine-producing regions. The wineries around Lillooet, Kamloops and the Shuswap are in some instances literally breaking new ground. Each at different stages in evolution, which is what one would expect. In many ways these areas, with respect to the maturity of their wine production, can be compared to the Okanagan as it was 10 to 20 years ago. The drive along the Sea-to-Sky Highway (Hwy 99) from Vancouver to Lillooet via Whistler, Pemberton and Squamish is, quite simply, stunning. The journey is, in itself, a reason to make the four-plus hour trek through the coastal mountain range to Fort Berens Estate Winery, established in 2009 as Lillooet’s first winery. 64 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

The north-easterly proximity (more north than east) from Vancouver would naturally incline one to believe Fort Berens to be located in a much cooler, if not colder, climate. But according to Fort Berens co-founder/co-owner Rolf de Bruin, the mountains create a microclimate resulting in temperatures 10 degrees warmer than Vancouver and a growing season that mirrors the southern Okanagan. De Bruin explains that the mountains surrounding Lytton and Lillooet are higher than those in the Okanagan and create a sharp rain shadow. While Vancouver is notoriously damp due to the Pacific winds blowing clouds to collide with the coastal mountains and dumping their moisture, the valleys to the east of the mountains are generally dry. The result, according to de Bruin, is desert-like conditions (Lillooet is one of the hottest spots in Canada), with an average annual precipitation of 7 inches (less than Osoyoos), which mainly falls in the winter and a little in June. PHOTO: KIM LAWTON/DOGLEGMARKETING.CA

Remarkably, due to the microclimate, the growing season at Fort Berens mirrors that of Osoyoos, despite being located 350 km north of the southern Okanagan. The winery currently grows Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Grüner Veltliner on its 20 planted acres. In 2018, the winery plans to plant an additional 20 acres that will also see Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The wines being produced at Fort Berens are well made, clean, accessible, approachable, enjoyable and relatively safe. That’s not a knock, nor is it uncommon for a relatively new producer in an emerging wine-producing region. THEY ARE ALSO STILL PURCHASING GRAPES FROM OTHER PARTS OF THE PROVINCE AND BLENDING WITH THEIR ESTATE FRUIT. Over time, de Bruin would like to

focus more on estate fruit. This would be a positive step, in my opinion, for this region to truly gain an identity. The wines need to reflect the place, which can only be accomplished by using locally grown grapes. I would anticipate that as the winery, vineyards and region mature, wineries will take even greater advantage of their microclimate, sunlight hours and large diurnal temperature range and resulting natural acidity, which would add a lively and bracing vibrancy to the wines. But it also took producers in the Okanagan time to learn to embrace acidity (and many are still learning). De Bruin indicates that there are approximately 5,000 plantable acres of viable vineyard land in the region; more farmers have been moving to the area from the Lower Mainland and southern BC due to the significantly lower price of land. Combined with the growing conditions, the area seems to have a tremendous amount of potential to become British Columbia’s next major wine-growing region after the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys. Time will tell. Further east in the Thompson Valley around the city of Kamloops, the rain shadow created by the coastal mountains also results in semi-arid conditions allowing for viable grape-growing, although the winters can be harsh, leading to winter damage if the vines are not protected. The Kamloops Wine Trail connects Privato, Sagewood, Harper’s Trail and Monte Creek Ranch wineries. At Privato Vineyard and Winery, owners Debbie and John Woodward grow Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Ortega and Foch, but produce wines from approximately half their own fruit and half from grapes purchased from various vineyards throughout the province. Last winter, they lost 70 percent of their Pinot Noir to winter damage, but they expect for it all to come back as their vines are all own-rooted versus being grafted onto rootstock. Barrel tastings of Privato’s estate Pinot Noir and Pinot Noir purchased from the Rise Vineyard in Vernon showed distinct differences based on site, as would be expected. The Rise Vineyard Pinot was savoury and spicy while the Privato estate-grown Pinot Noir was fruitier and juicy with fresh acidity. Both were quite delicious.

Harper’s Trail Estate Winery is located on limestone-rich soils, and owners Ed and Vicki Collett have the benefit of working with one of British Columbia’s most experienced and knowledgeable industry professionals with Michael Bartier as their consultant winemaker. The winery’s Rieslings and Cabernet Franc stand out, but their new sparkling wines show potential and all wines show Bartier’s restrained hand. Their 2011 Pioneer Block Riesling has lime and gunflint aromas, is waxy and gives the impression of lime on toast. It clearly shows the potential of the Rieslings from the estate. Monte Creek Ranch Winery appears to have the greatest resources of any winery in the region and is already a busy tourist destination. The whites are crisp and fresh, while the reds seem to reflect the classic emerging region dilemma.

WINERIES STILL NEED TO CONTINUE TO LEARN ABOUT AND UNDERSTAND THEIR TERROIR AND FOCUS ON WHAT GRAPES ARE BEST SUITED TO THE PARTICULAR MICROCLIMATES. Around the Shuswap, wineries such as Celista, Lavina and Sunnybrae are all at various stages of evolution. In Tappen, near Salmon Arm, Recline Ridge Vineyards has been in existence for a number of years and owner Graydon Ratzlaff seems to have a good sense of what they can grow well in their vineyard sites. The winery grows a mix of hybrids and vinifera; their wines are clean and fresh with good varietal character. Their 2014 Just Being Frank Blaufränkisch (cherries, currants, dark berry, structure and freshness) and 2014 Too Many Zweigelt (fruit, spice, juicy) stood out amongst the reds. The emergence of British Columbia can be seen as a sign of a maturing and healthy wine industry. There is seemingly demand to grow and a desire to discover and explore to determine where else in the province viable grape-growing and wine production can exist. Wineries still need to continue to learn about and understand their terroir and focus on what grapes are best suited to the particular microclimates. The debate on whether to continue to grow hybrids will likely also arise. For consumers, visit the regions and taste the wines, but understand that the wineries in these areas are in many ways in a similar situation as Okanagan wineries were 10 to 20 years ago. Hopefully wineries in these emerging regions will be able to take these lessons from the past couple of decades, apply them to their situation and shorten their learning curve. Foreshadowing? If so, Canadian wine lovers have something special to look forward to. × NOVEMBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 65

AFTER TASTE BY TONY ASPLER

MATCH UP WHEN NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK WANT TO FLEX THEIR MUSCLES, THEY CHALLENGE THE ESTABLISHED ORDER. In oenological terms,

this means the equivalent of a schoolyard tag-team rumble without Marquess of Queensberry rules. The challenger gets to choose the turf and the card — meaning who the opponents are and where they are placed in the flight. For this format, you can applaud or blame the English wine merchant, Steven Spurrier, who started it all with the now-legendary “Judgement of Paris” tasting in 1976. He pitted top California Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons against Domaine-bottle white Burgundies and château-bottled red Bordeaux. Anyone who has lifted a wine glass knows the result: eight French tasters placed California at the top of each category — a David-and-Goliath match-up that put Napa Valley on the world wine map. Since then, emerging New World wine regions have battled the Old World for the prestige of besting their honoured products. The latest iteration of this hand-topalate combat was recently held in Toronto at Canoe Restaurant. Philip McGahan, the winemaker for CheckMate winery in Oliver, BC, matched his six Chardonnays from the 2014 vintage against price-comparative Chardonnays from Burgundy, Sonoma and Argentina’s Mendoza Valley. Before I give you my notes on this blind tasting, a word about CheckMate. Anthony von Mandl, proprietor of Mission Hill in BC, acquired the old Domaine Combret winery in Oliver for the specific purpose of producing world-class Chardonnay and Merlot from dedicated vineyard plots in the Okanagan. All these wines are chessthemed (as are the Merlots).

93 WAYFARER VINEYARD WAYFARER CHARDONNAY 2014, SONOMA COUNTY ($150) Straw colour with a lime tint; spicy, nutty, toasty apple. Rich and full on the palate.

93 CHECKMATE QUEEN TAKEN CHARDONNAY 2014 ($125) Pale straw with a lime tint; minerally, white flowers and apple on the nose. Apple, peach and oak spice notes; rich mouthfeel, full-bodied, dry and beautifully balanced.

93 MARC-MOREY PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 2014, BURGUNDY ($80) Pale straw-lime colour; minerally, smoky, high-toned, lemony green-apple bouquet with a toasty oak finish. A beautifully balanced wine.

93 CHECKMATE LITTLE PAWN CHARDONNAY 2014 ($110)

91 DOMAINE LATOUR-GIRAUD MEURSAULT CUVÉE CHARLES MAXIME 2014, BURGUNDY ($104) Pale straw colour. Developing barnyard notes; earthy, minerally, apple bouquet. Medium-bodied, dry, lean and lemony, slightly tart and tight with mouth-watering acidity.

90 CHECKMATE ATTACK CHARDONNAY 2014 ($105) Pale straw colour; minerally, apple nose with a sour-cream note. Medium-bodied, soft on the palate with fennel and salty notes and a toasty, nutty finish.

Vanilla oak and apple nose; full-bodied, spicy peachy palate. Well-balanced, great length of flavour with a lively acidic finish.

88 BODEGAS CATENA ZAPATA ADRIANNA VINEYARD WHITE STONES CHARDONNAY 2013, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA ($90)

92 CHECKMATE KNIGHT’S CHALLENGE CHARDONNAY 2014 ($85)

Straw colour; spicy, resiny nose of Fernet Branca. Full-bodied, dry, some bitterness here with lively acidity.

Pale straw colour with a lime tint; minerally, apple nose. Medium- to full-bodied, dry, apple flavour with a touch of oak spice. Fresh acidity with green pineapple and apple. Long finish with well-integrated oak and a nutty finish.

As you see from my scores, the CheckMate wines showed very well, Queen Taken and Little Pawn tying for first place with the Puligny-Montrachet and the Sonoma Chard. ×

66 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2017

ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM

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