The heat and mass transfer in clothing is affected by the distribution of the air gap thickness a... more The heat and mass transfer in clothing is affected by the distribution of the air gap thickness and the contact area and this, in turn, results from the interaction between the geometrically complex shape of the human body, garment design, and fabric mechanical properties. In this study, the distribution of the air gap thickness and the contact area in typical shirts and undershirts were investigated using the three-dimensional scanning technique in relation to the garment style and fit, fabric properties, and body regions. This study showed that at the upper trunk the air gap thickness was unaffected by both the garment style and the fit, whereas the shape of the contact area was changed only by the fit. At the lower body the air gap thickness and the contact area changed proportionally with the increase of the ease allowances in the garments. As expected, larger air gaps were formed in shirts but larger contact areas were observed in undershirts. Consequently, results indicated th...
Several processes in textile finishing involve a change in the state of the fabric surface, for e... more Several processes in textile finishing involve a change in the state of the fabric surface, for example, sanding, raising, calendering, washing, enzyme treatments, and fulling. There is no current control system for these processes. A new tribological method for quantifying the modification of the state of the fabric surface is described. It involves the use of a rotating tribometer with
IEEE Transactions on Control Systems Technology, 2011
ABSTRACT Flexible materials such as textiles, papers, polymers, and metals are transported on rol... more ABSTRACT Flexible materials such as textiles, papers, polymers, and metals are transported on rollers during their processing. Maintaining web tension in the entire processing line under changing web speed is a key factor in achieving good final product quality. Many industrial applications use dancer position feed-back to indirectly regulate tension. Although widely used in the industry, pendulum dancers (rotational motion of the dancer roller) have received very little attention in the literature com-pared to linear ones (translational motion). The lack of clearly identified controllers synthesis methods can thus be noticed, as industry typically uses hand-tuned decentralized PI controllers. An improved alternative based on methods is proposed in this paper to provide a systematic framework. The focus in this study is the unwind section of a processing line that contains a pendulum dancer (PD). The nonlinear and linear phenomenological models of the unwind section containing the PD are discussed first. The position controller based on dancer position feedback is synthe-sized using the standard approach with mixed sensitivity. Because of the high order of the controllers synthesized with this approach, techniques to generate reduced-order controllers are used to calculate a fixed-order controller resembling standard industrial practice. The performance of the proposed controllers is demonstrated by carrying out experiments on a large exper-imental web handling platform containing four driven rollers, many idle rollers, and a PD in the unwind section. To the best of our knowledge, these are the first published results of successful application of an controller to a real plant containing a PD.
In the field of e-commerce or virtual prototyping of textile fabrics and garments, tactile stimul... more In the field of e-commerce or virtual prototyping of textile fabrics and garments, tactile stimulators could be very pertinent and useful tools for the industry. The challenge is to stimulate the human hand using a tactile device in order to simulate the textile fabric touch. The principle of the tactile device is described. The kinds of fabrics investigated are pile fabrics, such as velvet. In this study, the illusion of pile is given when touching the smooth plate of the tactile device by modulating the coefficient of friction between the plate and the finger during an active movement. The control signal is qualitatively designed from some tribological features identified in this study as velvet fabric characteristics. The influence of each tribological feature on the tactile rendering is studied via psychophysical studies comparing real and simulated fabrics. The best rendering needs a simulation with three specific features: a coefficient of friction, which depends on the finger...
Comfort is a major selling point for clothes, and tactile comfort is essential; a fabric must be ... more Comfort is a major selling point for clothes, and tactile comfort is essential; a fabric must be pleasant to the touch. Several textile finishing processes improve fabric touch: sanding (or emerizing) (for 30% of clothes) and raising (for polar fleece, a current popular product), for example. There is no current control system for these processes, which are very often used but not well understood. This study describes a tribological method for investigating sanding and raising, and brings to light the effects of these processes on the fabric surface. A textile fabric is rubbed with a probe of a multidirectional roughness meter, and the signal is studied in the frequency domain. The calculated autospectrum shows several peaks that correspond to the kind of weave or knit and the fabric density. The peak height changes with the process intensity and decreases after sanding or raising, due to a modification of the fabric profile. The multidirectional roughness meter provides information about the fabric surface state and the fundamental directions of fabric relief, which depend on the kind of weave or knit. Observations with a scanning electron microscope and edge extraction of hairs produced by sanding or raising are used to interpret this information.
L’objectif de ce travail consiste à caractériser le désordre occasionné par la présence de fibres... more L’objectif de ce travail consiste à caractériser le désordre occasionné par la présence de fibres émergeant d’une surface textile. La méthode utilisée est basée sur la mesure de la réflexion en lumière polarisée d’un matériau fibreux dont la surface a été modifiée par une usure abrasive. Cette usure provoque un changement au niveau des caractéristiques des fibres émergeant du matériau (densité, longueur, arrangement spatial). La modification de la surface ainsi obtenue est caractérisée par la méthode présentée, comme l’illustrent des résultats expérimentaux.
Various optical devices were conceived and implemented at University de Haute Alsace in order to ... more Various optical devices were conceived and implemented at University de Haute Alsace in order to identify and characterize parameters linked to the roughness and to the hairiness of fibrous surfaces (textile fabrics or nonwovens). A roughness meter consisting in measuring the reflection of a thin line was developped. This technique essentially measures the fabric-reflected rays in all surface directions, because the fabric is rotated in its plane during the measurement. A Fourier temporal analysis of the reflected beam scanned across the fabric surface allows the fabric structure periods to be determined, because these periods yield peaks in the frequency spectrum. An improved version able to measure in line (the optical apparatus rotates over a fixed sample) was developped and can also be used as an extensometer. A hairiness meter based on Fourier spatial filtering was implemented: this edge extraction method separates hairiness and structural information. This technique operates a...
Cette étude présente l’intérêt d’utiliser la souplesse des matériaux textiles afin de présenter l... more Cette étude présente l’intérêt d’utiliser la souplesse des matériaux textiles afin de présenter l’échantillon de telle sorte qu’il soit éclairé en incidence rasante ce qui permet d’une part de caractériser les fibres émergeant de la surface qui forment une pilosité superficielle et d’autre part de mesurer le profil de la surface. En éclairant tangentiellement une surface textile par une lumière cohérente on obtient l’ombre du relief de la structure ainsi que la pilosité. Une image laissant apparaître les poils et la structure en noir sur un fond blanc saturé est alors obtenue. La suppression de la composante continue à l’aide d’un filtre spatial optique permet d’obtenir les fibres et le relief de la structure en blanc sur un fond noir. Ensuite, la structure et la pilosité peuvent alors être optionnellement séparés par traitement d’images. Chaque information profil et pilosité est ensuite filtrée numériquement et de façon spécifique pour pourvoir être exploitée.
L'objectif de cette étude consiste à caractériser la surface de non-tissés. Un non-tissé est ... more L'objectif de cette étude consiste à caractériser la surface de non-tissés. Un non-tissé est constitué d'une nappe de fibres enchevêtrées de façon pseudo-aléatoire et dont la cohésion provient du processus de fabrication, dans notre cas, un thermoliage qui consiste à créer des points de fusion des fibres (points de calandrage). L'étude de la surface de ces matériaux fibreux particuliers nous informe sur leur texture qui influe fortement sur leurs propriétés organoleptiques, et sur l'orientation des fibres qui conditionne les propriétés mécaniques du matériau. Pour ce faire deux traitements d'images en degré de polarisation des échantillons sont développés. Afin de contrôler le processus de thermoliage une analyse des points de calandrage et du fond fibreux est réalisée. Afin de déterminer l'orientation majoritaire des fibres, influençant les propriétés mécaniques, seul le fond fibreux du matériau est analysé.
The heat and mass transfer in clothing is affected by the distribution of the air gap thickness a... more The heat and mass transfer in clothing is affected by the distribution of the air gap thickness and the contact area and this, in turn, results from the interaction between the geometrically complex shape of the human body, garment design, and fabric mechanical properties. In this study, the distribution of the air gap thickness and the contact area in typical shirts and undershirts were investigated using the three-dimensional scanning technique in relation to the garment style and fit, fabric properties, and body regions. This study showed that at the upper trunk the air gap thickness was unaffected by both the garment style and the fit, whereas the shape of the contact area was changed only by the fit. At the lower body the air gap thickness and the contact area changed proportionally with the increase of the ease allowances in the garments. As expected, larger air gaps were formed in shirts but larger contact areas were observed in undershirts. Consequently, results indicated th...
Several processes in textile finishing involve a change in the state of the fabric surface, for e... more Several processes in textile finishing involve a change in the state of the fabric surface, for example, sanding, raising, calendering, washing, enzyme treatments, and fulling. There is no current control system for these processes. A new tribological method for quantifying the modification of the state of the fabric surface is described. It involves the use of a rotating tribometer with
IEEE Transactions on Control Systems Technology, 2011
ABSTRACT Flexible materials such as textiles, papers, polymers, and metals are transported on rol... more ABSTRACT Flexible materials such as textiles, papers, polymers, and metals are transported on rollers during their processing. Maintaining web tension in the entire processing line under changing web speed is a key factor in achieving good final product quality. Many industrial applications use dancer position feed-back to indirectly regulate tension. Although widely used in the industry, pendulum dancers (rotational motion of the dancer roller) have received very little attention in the literature com-pared to linear ones (translational motion). The lack of clearly identified controllers synthesis methods can thus be noticed, as industry typically uses hand-tuned decentralized PI controllers. An improved alternative based on methods is proposed in this paper to provide a systematic framework. The focus in this study is the unwind section of a processing line that contains a pendulum dancer (PD). The nonlinear and linear phenomenological models of the unwind section containing the PD are discussed first. The position controller based on dancer position feedback is synthe-sized using the standard approach with mixed sensitivity. Because of the high order of the controllers synthesized with this approach, techniques to generate reduced-order controllers are used to calculate a fixed-order controller resembling standard industrial practice. The performance of the proposed controllers is demonstrated by carrying out experiments on a large exper-imental web handling platform containing four driven rollers, many idle rollers, and a PD in the unwind section. To the best of our knowledge, these are the first published results of successful application of an controller to a real plant containing a PD.
In the field of e-commerce or virtual prototyping of textile fabrics and garments, tactile stimul... more In the field of e-commerce or virtual prototyping of textile fabrics and garments, tactile stimulators could be very pertinent and useful tools for the industry. The challenge is to stimulate the human hand using a tactile device in order to simulate the textile fabric touch. The principle of the tactile device is described. The kinds of fabrics investigated are pile fabrics, such as velvet. In this study, the illusion of pile is given when touching the smooth plate of the tactile device by modulating the coefficient of friction between the plate and the finger during an active movement. The control signal is qualitatively designed from some tribological features identified in this study as velvet fabric characteristics. The influence of each tribological feature on the tactile rendering is studied via psychophysical studies comparing real and simulated fabrics. The best rendering needs a simulation with three specific features: a coefficient of friction, which depends on the finger...
Comfort is a major selling point for clothes, and tactile comfort is essential; a fabric must be ... more Comfort is a major selling point for clothes, and tactile comfort is essential; a fabric must be pleasant to the touch. Several textile finishing processes improve fabric touch: sanding (or emerizing) (for 30% of clothes) and raising (for polar fleece, a current popular product), for example. There is no current control system for these processes, which are very often used but not well understood. This study describes a tribological method for investigating sanding and raising, and brings to light the effects of these processes on the fabric surface. A textile fabric is rubbed with a probe of a multidirectional roughness meter, and the signal is studied in the frequency domain. The calculated autospectrum shows several peaks that correspond to the kind of weave or knit and the fabric density. The peak height changes with the process intensity and decreases after sanding or raising, due to a modification of the fabric profile. The multidirectional roughness meter provides information about the fabric surface state and the fundamental directions of fabric relief, which depend on the kind of weave or knit. Observations with a scanning electron microscope and edge extraction of hairs produced by sanding or raising are used to interpret this information.
L’objectif de ce travail consiste à caractériser le désordre occasionné par la présence de fibres... more L’objectif de ce travail consiste à caractériser le désordre occasionné par la présence de fibres émergeant d’une surface textile. La méthode utilisée est basée sur la mesure de la réflexion en lumière polarisée d’un matériau fibreux dont la surface a été modifiée par une usure abrasive. Cette usure provoque un changement au niveau des caractéristiques des fibres émergeant du matériau (densité, longueur, arrangement spatial). La modification de la surface ainsi obtenue est caractérisée par la méthode présentée, comme l’illustrent des résultats expérimentaux.
Various optical devices were conceived and implemented at University de Haute Alsace in order to ... more Various optical devices were conceived and implemented at University de Haute Alsace in order to identify and characterize parameters linked to the roughness and to the hairiness of fibrous surfaces (textile fabrics or nonwovens). A roughness meter consisting in measuring the reflection of a thin line was developped. This technique essentially measures the fabric-reflected rays in all surface directions, because the fabric is rotated in its plane during the measurement. A Fourier temporal analysis of the reflected beam scanned across the fabric surface allows the fabric structure periods to be determined, because these periods yield peaks in the frequency spectrum. An improved version able to measure in line (the optical apparatus rotates over a fixed sample) was developped and can also be used as an extensometer. A hairiness meter based on Fourier spatial filtering was implemented: this edge extraction method separates hairiness and structural information. This technique operates a...
Cette étude présente l’intérêt d’utiliser la souplesse des matériaux textiles afin de présenter l... more Cette étude présente l’intérêt d’utiliser la souplesse des matériaux textiles afin de présenter l’échantillon de telle sorte qu’il soit éclairé en incidence rasante ce qui permet d’une part de caractériser les fibres émergeant de la surface qui forment une pilosité superficielle et d’autre part de mesurer le profil de la surface. En éclairant tangentiellement une surface textile par une lumière cohérente on obtient l’ombre du relief de la structure ainsi que la pilosité. Une image laissant apparaître les poils et la structure en noir sur un fond blanc saturé est alors obtenue. La suppression de la composante continue à l’aide d’un filtre spatial optique permet d’obtenir les fibres et le relief de la structure en blanc sur un fond noir. Ensuite, la structure et la pilosité peuvent alors être optionnellement séparés par traitement d’images. Chaque information profil et pilosité est ensuite filtrée numériquement et de façon spécifique pour pourvoir être exploitée.
L'objectif de cette étude consiste à caractériser la surface de non-tissés. Un non-tissé est ... more L'objectif de cette étude consiste à caractériser la surface de non-tissés. Un non-tissé est constitué d'une nappe de fibres enchevêtrées de façon pseudo-aléatoire et dont la cohésion provient du processus de fabrication, dans notre cas, un thermoliage qui consiste à créer des points de fusion des fibres (points de calandrage). L'étude de la surface de ces matériaux fibreux particuliers nous informe sur leur texture qui influe fortement sur leurs propriétés organoleptiques, et sur l'orientation des fibres qui conditionne les propriétés mécaniques du matériau. Pour ce faire deux traitements d'images en degré de polarisation des échantillons sont développés. Afin de contrôler le processus de thermoliage une analyse des points de calandrage et du fond fibreux est réalisée. Afin de déterminer l'orientation majoritaire des fibres, influençant les propriétés mécaniques, seul le fond fibreux du matériau est analysé.
Uploads
Papers