Margarida Amaro
Margarida Amaro is Researcher and develops her work in the fields of fashion semiotics.
She is currently Integrated Researcher of ICNOVA - NOVA Institute of Communication research center: http://www.icnova.fcsh.unl.pt/en/integrated-members/ and she is Collaborator Researcher of CIAUD, Research Centre for Architecture, Urbanism and Design.
Phone: +351917342477
She is currently Integrated Researcher of ICNOVA - NOVA Institute of Communication research center: http://www.icnova.fcsh.unl.pt/en/integrated-members/ and she is Collaborator Researcher of CIAUD, Research Centre for Architecture, Urbanism and Design.
Phone: +351917342477
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Abstact The affirmation of author's fashion in Portugal will take place during de years 80th with the leadership of Ana Salazar and Manuela Gonçalves, sensitized to wear the vanguard and modernity way of dress, contributed to the emergence of a new aesthetic concerning the body and the form of involve them. Until then, the fashion was limited to the work of dressmakers that acquired license to use the molds and copied international models. We will proceed to an analytical descriptive analysis of the genealogy of the works of these pioneers of fashion author's. Keywords: Dress. Dressmakers. Fashion Author’s
Books
«Maçã» (Pomme) c'est la métaphore fondatrice qui préside à la création d'Ana Salazar, personnalité pionnière de la mode au Portugal. La métaphore en tant que procès rhétorique vit de la délocalisation, de l'écart, du passage du réalisme de la matière au symbolisme du nom (Salazar).
Il s’agit de parcourir les trois étapes où la marque « Maçã » se manifeste: le niveau des valeurs, où sont installées les valeurs qui fondent le discours et l´identité de la marque ; le niveau narratif où la signification prend forme ; le niveau discursif où les valeurs sont « habillées » et parées pour la communication et se manifestent les codes de l´univers socio-culturel où «Maçã » s´organise comme marque.
(1993, p. 78) is the opposite of formal vision and the image that breaks with stereotypes to establish the logic of the unpredictable. The construction of this world is achieved through the subversion of existing values and finds in fashion a form of privileged expression of novelty, transgression and eccentricity. Eccentricity is the practical expression of the dandy who perspectives the fashion, beyond the normative forms of established clothing. A figure who embodies the forms of eccentricity is António Variações: barber as a profession, composer and musician by passion, controversial personality with an extravagant image, Variações leads the transgression of the codes and permeates the cultural imaginary of the late twentieth century in Portugal.
We will analyse the world and fashion “al revés” in António Variações on a perspective of the semiotics of culture
Conference Presentations
Drafts
Abstact The affirmation of author's fashion in Portugal will take place during de years 80th with the leadership of Ana Salazar and Manuela Gonçalves, sensitized to wear the vanguard and modernity way of dress, contributed to the emergence of a new aesthetic concerning the body and the form of involve them. Until then, the fashion was limited to the work of dressmakers that acquired license to use the molds and copied international models. We will proceed to an analytical descriptive analysis of the genealogy of the works of these pioneers of fashion author's. Keywords: Dress. Dressmakers. Fashion Author’s
«Maçã» (Pomme) c'est la métaphore fondatrice qui préside à la création d'Ana Salazar, personnalité pionnière de la mode au Portugal. La métaphore en tant que procès rhétorique vit de la délocalisation, de l'écart, du passage du réalisme de la matière au symbolisme du nom (Salazar).
Il s’agit de parcourir les trois étapes où la marque « Maçã » se manifeste: le niveau des valeurs, où sont installées les valeurs qui fondent le discours et l´identité de la marque ; le niveau narratif où la signification prend forme ; le niveau discursif où les valeurs sont « habillées » et parées pour la communication et se manifestent les codes de l´univers socio-culturel où «Maçã » s´organise comme marque.
(1993, p. 78) is the opposite of formal vision and the image that breaks with stereotypes to establish the logic of the unpredictable. The construction of this world is achieved through the subversion of existing values and finds in fashion a form of privileged expression of novelty, transgression and eccentricity. Eccentricity is the practical expression of the dandy who perspectives the fashion, beyond the normative forms of established clothing. A figure who embodies the forms of eccentricity is António Variações: barber as a profession, composer and musician by passion, controversial personality with an extravagant image, Variações leads the transgression of the codes and permeates the cultural imaginary of the late twentieth century in Portugal.
We will analyse the world and fashion “al revés” in António Variações on a perspective of the semiotics of culture