Mokhotlong

Cradled in the moutains of Southern Africa, Mokhotlong is one of Lesotho’s ten districts, located in the northeastern part of the country. North of Sani Pass, it is the first major town, and off to the east one can catch a glimpse of the beautiful Maloti (Drakensberg in South Africa) Mountains, which span 200 kilometers. The name of the city is Sesotho, the language of the people of Lesotho, and it means “Place of the Bald Ibis.” Its seclusion and uninterrupted natural beauty will strike anyone looking to escape the confines of the city.

• Rondevals
  Rondevals
• Mokhotlong from the Mountains
  Mokhotlong from the Mountains

History

Mokhotlong’s role as a police post first brought people to this part of Lesotho in 1905. Soon, it developed into a trading center for the people of the Highlands region. However, it was preserved from major development by its separation from the rest of the country, for it was not until 1947 that radio contact was established with Maseru, the capital city. In the next few years an air strip was built and a road cleared through town to link Mokhotlong to the rest of Lesotho. Even so, Mokhotlong continued to be outfitted with provisions and supplies by pony trek from Natal, South Africa, via Sani Pass.

Geography

An hour and a half drive north of Sani Pass, Mokhotlong is located 270 km from Maseru and 200 km from Butha-Buthe. The source of the Senqu River, Lesotho’s largest river, lies near Mokhotlong, and weaves a beautiful landscape throughout the town and surrounding district perfect for long casual walks or for viewing during more rigorous hikes through the mountains.

Transport

The easiest way to access Mokhotlong is by minibus taxi. A few run daily to and from Butha-Buthe (M80, five hours), in addition to one to and from Maseru (M98, eight hours), which departs at about 8am from Mokhotlong (Sunday through Friday) and 6:30am from Maseru (Monday through Saturday). In addition, a minibus departs daily at 6am and 11am to Sani Top and continues to Underberg, KwaZulu-Natal, along Sani Pass (M75, five hours to Underberg). Finally, minibus taxis to Linakaneng will drop passengers by Molumong Lodge, from which another minibus can be taken to Sani Pass. Should this be desired, change minibus taxis on the road that runs along the lodge.

Accommodation

- Senqu Hotel (Seliba Holdings PTY LTD) (2292 0330) – located at the western end of town, nicest hotel in Mokhotlong with best restaurant; s/d with shared bathroom M180/240, s/d M200/280

- Mokhotlong Hotel – located just across from the hospital in Mokhotlong along the main road. Also has a restaurant.

- Molumong Guesthouse and Backpackers Lodge (South Africa 033-394 3072; molumong@worldonline.co.za) - 15 km southwest of Mokhotlong off the road to Thaba-Tseka; campsites per person M45, dm/d M70/180; former colonial trading post incorporated into village; electricity and self-catering, bring your own food; pony trekking available

- Grow (2292 9295) – Lesotho development program with an office off the main road, basic dorms and kitchen dm M50; will host travelers as long as long as they don’t have training groups staying

- St. James Lodge (South Africa 033-326 1601; stjamesguestlodge@yahoo.com) - 12 km south of Mokhotlong off the road to Thaba-Tseka, situated on a working mission; dm/d M75/95; self-catering; pony trekking and scenic walks

- Camping – campers are encouraged to ask permission from the local chief of the nearest village to stay there. All land has been distributed and is someone’s property. Often times the chief will offer an area near his home or in another safe area. A small compensation is suggested.

Dining

For those looking to enjoy a full-service sit-down dinner, the Senqu and Mokhotlong Hotels boast delicious menus. Both serve a classic traditional meal, which includes choice of papa (cornmeal, texture similar to a mashed potato) or rice, moroho (various seasoned vegetables), and choice of meat (typically chicken, mutton [lamb], beef, and sometimes pork). In addition, both restaurants offer a variety of foods to cater to the traveler. The Senqu is famous for their Senqu Burger, a tasty combination of beef patty, sunny-side up egg, cheese, pineapple and sauce in a delicious biscuit-like bread, and the Mokhotlong has recently developed a very yummy pizza menu that contains at least fifteen varieties. These places are great for dinner, but if you are looking for a bit more of a cultural experience for lunch, there are a variety of take-aways, which offer both a to-go (26M) and a dine-in (25M) option. They serve the traditional papa or rice, vegetables, and typically a choice of two types of meat. The prices listed are standard throughout Mokhotlong. If more variety is desired, Thia-ala Butchery and Café, located in town next to the library, offers many delights, including takeaway sandwiches and chilled juice. Finally, another culinary highlight and must-experience of Mokhotlong are the makoenya, fried dough balls. The locals love them, and they are available all over town from various street vendors.

For the do-it-your-selfer or casual snacker, there is a store in the center of town across from the Lesotho Standard Bank that sells basic grocery needs. In addition, Thia-ala Butchery and Café (next to the library off the main road) bakes an incredible steamed bread sold by the loaf that is far superior to the bagged bread various grocery stores sell. If you prefer to support the local women, many bake it and have it available for sale outside the main grocery store (across from the bank) if you ask them. Additionally, the various butcheries in town are best for procuring meat, and in terms of produce, the Fruit and Veg, located down the road from Pep, receives a fresh truckload of a wide variety of fruits and vegetables every Wednesday.

Things to Do

During any season, Mokhotlong’s beauty is striking, and the number of beautiful hikes along the Senqu River or into the Maloti Mountains are limitless. The mountain range is host to a plethora of activities including hiking trails, horse trails, rock climbing, white water rafting, fly and trout fishing, golfing, bird and game watching, safaris, and much more. For the skiing or snowboarding inclined, Afri-Ski is just an hour and a half drive from Mokhotlong and offers a beginner slope, main slope, and snow park. Equipment and snow school are available. Pricing, slope status, and other information can be found at Afri-Ski). Sani Pass is nearby and also very beautiful.

Walking around town is also relaxing and a great way to learn more about the Sesotho culture and interact with the Basotho people, who are very friendly. For those looking for a comfy place to hang out, the Mokhotlong Hotel has a nice private bar with sofas, in addition to a public bar, which offers cheaper drinks and tends to be more populated.

In addition to regular activities, Mokhotlong hosts the annual High Altitude Summer Marathon at the end of the year. The route runs through the Maloti Mountains and is characterized by gorgeous views of both mountains and villages. At 3000 meters above sea level, if the scenery does not take the runner’s breath away, the steep ascents and descents will. There are also half marathon and 10k events, in addition to the full marathon. More information and an online entry form can be found at High Altitude Summer Marathon. For those more interested in moving with a motor, Mokhotlong is also on the route of the annual Roof of Africa Rally, an off-road motorcycle rally. Finally, Mokhotlong is home to the highest-elevated diamond mine in the world, Letseng diamond mine, which can be toured, and is often frequented by local students as part of their course of study. Its diamonds have the highest per carat price of any kimberlite mine, and with the capacity to process more than 5 million tonnes a year and recover about 100,000 carats, it is the seventh largest in the world. Three of their diamonds are among the world’s top twenty rough diamonds. For more information and to schedule a tour, see Letseng Diamonds.

Economy

Mokhotlong’s economy is driven primarily by imports from China, subsistence farming, and street vending. Geography limits the productivity of the land, though, and HIV/AIDS is ravishing the area. As a result, it is host to many aid organizations. One of these, Touching Tiny Lives (next to the hospital), caters to vulnerable children through provision of nutritional and medical support. To check out what they do, see their website, Touching Tiny Lives.