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Nudie Cohn

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Nuta Kotlyarenko (Ukrainian: Нута Котляренко; December 15, 1902 – May 9, 1984), known professionally as Nudie Cohn, was a Ukrainian-American tailor who designed decorative rhinestone-covered suits, known popularly as "Nudie Suits", and other elaborate outfits for some of the most famous celebrities of his era.[1][2] He also became famous for his outrageous customized automobiles.[3]

Nudie Cohn
headshot of Nudie Cohn as an older man in a cowboy hat
Born
Nuta Kotlyarenko

December 15, 1902
Kiev, Russian Empire
DiedMay 9, 1984(1984-05-09) (aged 81)
Burbank, California
NationalityAmerican
OccupationFashion designer
Known forNudie Suits
LabelNudie's Rodeo Tailors

Early life

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Kotlyarenko was born in Kiev on December 15, 1902, to a Ukrainian Jewish family.[4] To escape the pogroms of Czarist Russia, his parents sent him at age 11, with his brother Julius, to America. For a time he criss-crossed the country, working as a shoeshine boy and later a boxer. He later claimed associating with gangster Pretty Boy Floyd.[1] While living in a boardinghouse in Mankato, Minnesota, he met Helen "Bobbie" Kruger, and married her in 1934. In the midst of the Great Depression the newlyweds moved to New York City and opened their first store, "Nudie's for the Ladies", specializing in custom-made undergarments for showgirls.[1][3]

Clothing business

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Porter Wagoner performing at the Grand Ole Opry in a Nudie suit, 1999
 
Gram Parsons' Nudie suit, on display at the Country Music Hall of Fame

Cohn and Kruger relocated to California in the early 1940s, and began designing and manufacturing clothing in their garage. In 1947 Cohn persuaded young, struggling country singer Tex Williams to buy him a sewing machine with the proceeds from auctioning off a horse.[3] In exchange, Cohn made clothing for Williams.[1] As their creations gained a following, the Cohns opened "Nudie's of Hollywood" on the corner of Victory Blvd and Vineland Ave in North Hollywood, dealing exclusively in western wear, a style much in fashion at the time.

Cohn's designs brought the already-flamboyant western style to a new level of ostentation with the liberal use of rhinestones and themed images in chain stitch embroidery.[3] One of his early designs, in 1962, for singer Porter Wagoner, was a peach-colored suit featuring rhinestones, a covered wagon on the back, and wagon wheels on the legs. He offered the suit to Wagoner for free, confident that the popular performer would serve as a billboard for his clothing line.[3] His confidence proved justified and the business grew rapidly. In 1963 the Cohns relocated their business to a larger facility on Lankershim Boulevard in North Hollywood and renamed it "Nudie's Rodeo Tailors".[1]

Many of Cohn's designs became signature looks for their owners. Among his most famous creations was Elvis Presley's $10,000 gold lamé suit[3] worn by the singer on the cover of his 50,000,000 Elvis Fans Can't Be Wrong album.[5] Cohn created Hank Williams' white cowboy suit with musical notations on the sleeves, and Gram Parsons' infamous suit for the cover of the Flying Burrito Brothers' 1969 album The Gilded Palace of Sin, featuring pills, poppies, marijuana leaves, naked women, and a huge cross.[6][3] He designed the iconic costume worn by Robert Redford in the 1979 film Electric Horseman, which was exhibited by the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum in Oklahoma City.[7]

Many of the film costumes worn by Roy Rogers and Dale Evans were Nudie designs.[1] John Lennon was a customer, as were John Wayne, Gene Autry, George Jones, Cher, Ronald Reagan, Elton John, Robert Mitchum, Pat Buttram, Tony Curtis, Michael Landon, Glen Campbell, Michael Nesmith, Hank Snow, Hank Thompson, and numerous musical groups, notably America and Chicago.[6] ZZ Top band members Billy Gibbons and Dusty Hill sported Nudie suits on the cover photo of their 1975 album Fandango!.

In 2006, Porter Wagoner said he had accumulated 52 Nudie suits, costing between $11,000 and $18,000 each, since receiving his first free outfit in 1962.[8] The Belgian entertainer Bobbejaan Schoepen was a client and personal friend; his collection of 35 complete stage outfits is the largest in Europe.[9][10][11]

Cohn strutted around town in his own outrageous suits and rhinestone-studded cowboy hats. His sartorial trademark was mismatched boots, which he wore, he said, to remember his humble beginnings in the 1930s when he could not afford a matching pair of shoes.[12] He shamelessly promoted himself and his products throughout his career. According to his granddaughter, Jamie Lee Nudie (who changed her last name to her grandfather's first name), he would often pay for items with dollar bills sporting a sticker of his face covering George Washington's. "When you get sick of looking at me," he would say, "just rip [the sticker] off and spend it."[13]

Automobiles

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Cohn was equally famous for his garishly decorated automobiles.[3] Between 1950 and 1975 he customized 18 vehicles, mostly white Pontiac Bonneville convertibles, with silver-dollar-studded dashboards, pistol door handles and gearshifts, extended rear bumpers, and enormous longhorn steer horn hood ornaments. They were nicknamed "Nudie Mobiles", and the nine surviving cars have become valued collector's items.[1][6] A Bonneville convertible designed for country singer Webb Pierce is on display at the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum in Nashville, Tennessee. A Pontiac Grand Ville convertible customized by Nudie can be seen at the end of the 1988 Buck Owens/Dwight Yoakam music video, "The Streets of Bakersfield." That same car—which Owens's manager claims was originally built for Elvis Presley[1]—now hangs over the bar inside Buck Owens's Crystal Palace in Bakersfield, California. Two Nudie Mobiles owned by Schoepen remain on display at Bobbejaanland, a Western-themed amusement park near Antwerp.[1][14]

Death and legacy

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Nudie Cohn died in 1984 at the age of 81. Numerous celebrities and long-time customers attended his funeral.[3] The eulogy was delivered by Dale Evans.[12] Nudie's Rodeo Tailors remained open for an additional ten years under the ownership of Nudie's widow Bobbie and granddaughter Jamie, and closed in 1994 when Bobbie retired.[12]

In 2015, Nudie's granddaughter Jamie reopened his shop, leading to a revival of Nudie suits among celebrities during the late 2010s and early 2020s.[15] The new generation of clients include rappers Lil Nas X, Diplo and Post Malone,[16] pop stars Kesha, Harry Styles, Jenny Lewis and Taylor Swift, and lead singer Brandon Flowers of The Killers who favored black suits similar to those worn by Marty Stuart and the late Johnny Cash.[17][18][19][20][21]

Cohn's creations, particularly those with celebrity provenance, remain popular with Country/Western and show business collectors, and continue to command high prices when they come on the market. In December 2009, for example, a white Nudie stage shirt owned by Roy Rogers, decorated with blue tassels and red musical notes, sold for $16,250 at a Christie's auction.[22] A Nudie shirt worn by Johnny Cash as grand marshal of the 1976 American Bicentennial Grand Parade in Washington, D.C., and in several subsequent stage performances, sold at auction for $25,000 in 2010.[23][24]

Cohn is fictionalized in Derek McCormack's 2003 novella The Haunted Hillbilly.[25]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c d e f g h i Dixon, Chris (September 4, 2005). "A Rhinestone Cowboy Who Grabbed Cars by the Horns". The New York Times. Retrieved March 22, 2018.
  2. ^ Cabrall, Mary Lynn; Nudie, Jamie Lee (2004). Nudie: the Rodeo tailor. Gibbs Smith. ISBN 9781586853815. Retrieved March 22, 2018.
  3. ^ a b c d e f g h i Robinson, John (28 February 2004). "Naked talent". The Guardian. Retrieved 24 August 2022.
  4. ^ "Meet the Man Who Dressed Dolly Parton". Messynessychic.com. May 14, 2015. Retrieved 22 March 2018.
  5. ^ Beard, Tyler (2001). 100 years of Western wear (Revised ed.). Gibbs-Smith. p. 72. ISBN 9780879055912.
  6. ^ a b c "NUDIE COHN | RHINESTONE COWBOY". December 22, 2009.
  7. ^ "National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum acquires iconic suit". NewsOK.com. September 28, 2010. Retrieved 22 March 2018.[dead link]
  8. ^ Deni, Laura (2009-05-17). "Broadway To Vegas". Archived from the original on January 31, 2010. Retrieved 2010-08-26.
  9. ^ "Actueel". Bobbejaan.be. Archived from the original on October 4, 2011.
  10. ^ MacDonell, Nancy (October 26, 2011). "Cowboy Couture | Nudie Cohn at Mode Museum".
  11. ^ DREAMSUITS. The Wonderful World of Nudie Cohn, Mairi MacKenzie. Publisher Lannoo, 2011.
  12. ^ a b c "Nudies Rodeo Tailors official website of Nudies suits". August 23, 2011. Archived from the original on August 23, 2011.
  13. ^ "The past returns on Mother's Day". Archive.signalscv.com.
  14. ^ Schoepen, T. Bobbejaan (The Ultimate Book of his Life and Work). Belgium, Uitgeverij Kannibaal, 2011.
  15. ^ Nudie's website
  16. ^ "From Roy Rogers to Lil Nas X: The Wild Western Story of Nudie Suits". The Wall Street Journal. Archived from the original on 2023-05-17.
  17. ^ Post Malone in yellow Nudie suit
  18. ^ "Rocker sparks backlash by calling out Josh Homme". The New Zealand Herald. Archived from the original on 2023-01-09.
  19. ^ Billboard
  20. ^ GW
  21. ^ "Power suits and petal power in full bloom on the Grammys 2018 red carpet". Los Angeles Times. 2018-01-29. Archived from the original on 2023-01-13.
  22. ^ Lot 14, Sale 2276 (December 3, 2009). Christies.com. Retrieved 2010-09-28.
  23. ^ "JOHNNY CASH BICENTENNIAL SHIRT - Current price: $20000". Julienslive.com.
  24. ^ Halloran, R. "500,000 View Capital's Bicentennial Parade". New York Times, July 4, 1976.
  25. ^ Wershler-Henry, Darren (29 October 2003). "The Haunted Hillbilly". Quill and Quire. St. Joseph Media. Retrieved 21 March 2018.
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